Tuesday, 1 January 2013
Yerasov 3000V
An interesting alternative to the usual Tubescreamer clones and similar, this is an overdrive pedal from Russia and sounds pretty good to me. I can't find much of a description, even the manufacturers website seems to mention the mechanical side rather than any sort of description of the circuit, so I'll let the video tell you everything you need to know. And a bit more info if you speak Russian.
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Verified. Works fine. This pedal is brighter and has more treble than the Yerasov 5000v which is a more darker bassier pedal. The brightness reminds me a bit like the CatalinBread CB30 (Vox) effect. Both these Russian pedals Yerasov 3000v & 5000v are quite good with strong flavoured tones and distortion and pack a punch as expected from the Russians.
ReplyDeleteExcellent work again Jon, thanks for verifying. We need more like you now Miro is spending all his spare time doing layouts! :D
DeleteMy build of this pedal sounded too thin and had too much treble so to give it more body and remove the highs I increased the capacitors in the Tone section Cap 15nF to 33nF and Cap 4.7nF to 15nf.
ReplyDeleteis it verified layout? I try 3 times but I didn't hear anything,......
ReplyDeletesomebody will give me a clue?
Jon built it successfully. Post the voltages you're getting at all the IC pins to see if that gives us a clue and a high res front and back pic would also be useful.
DeleteThe most common problem I have when a pedal does not work is a short in the soldering on the Vero Board. I always check this first.
DeleteIf this is of any help. The Voltages I have from my working pedal are as Follows:- Top IC TL072: Pin1:4.73v Pin 2: 4.73v Pin 3:3.85v Pin 4: 0v Pin 5: 4.69v Pin 6: 4.74v Pin 7: 4.74v Pin 8:9.42v.
DeleteBottom IC TL072: Pin1:4.75v Pin 2: 4.76v Pin 3:4.74v Pin 4: 0v Pin 5: 4.72v Pin 6: 4.74v Pin 7: 4.75v Pin 8:9.42v.
how about double link at the bottom IC between pin 6 and 7? and also I want to ask about resistor 2M4, is it can replace? cause I can't find this material in Indonesia
ReplyDeleteThe link between 6 and 7 of the bottom is required for it to work properly, with a double link at pin 7 going up another 4 rows to link to the 2M4. If that isn't done you won't be getting the half supply voltage to the required places. the 2M4 isn't absolutely necessary though, just use a 2M2 which should be easier to get hold of.
Deleteok thank I will try......
ReplyDeleteIt works for me. I am going to try what @Jon Rep suggested before since I need it not too treble. Thanks guys
ReplyDeleteThe original circuit on elektrotanya.com seems different to me.
ReplyDeleteI'm not getting any signal out of this, I checked all my solders and they look good, no bridges between the rows and triple checked all my components were in the correct places. I did substitute 2m7 for the 2m4 resistors. My IC voltages are different than Jon's, top IC: pin 1: 0, pin 2: 0, pin 3: 1.25, pin 4: 0, pin 5: 4.3, pin 6: .95, pin 7: .95, pin 8: .14, bottom IC: pin 1: 1.44, pin 2: 1.32, pin 3: 1.09, pin 4: 0, pin 5: 4.5. pin 6: 4.7, pin 7:4.7, pin 8: 9.5
ReplyDeleteAny help would be super appreciated.
your voltages are wrong. there must be a mistake somewhere on your build. all your voltages should be close to what Jon posted.
Deleteyou have good voltages only at pin4 and the right half of the bottom ic,
you could post pictures of both sides of the board, or you could open a debugging threat on the forum.
hope i helped.good luck
Thanks for the reply! I knew there was a mistake somewhere since my voltages were different. I was starting to think the value changes had to be the culprit because I went over everything a hundred times and re-knifed, which was when I finally saw that one IC leg didn't get soldered. I love when it's a stupid mistake because that means an easy fix!
DeleteThanks again for the reply. I've built dozens of vero layouts and haven't asked for much help here but I really need to get more involved in this community.