The Black Cat OD-1 (a.k.a. Freddie Fuzz) is an original design Fred created based on the unique properties of the OP275, a dual operational amplifier chip made by Analog Devices. The OP275 is a high-quality op-amp that gives a distinctive linear output waveform. The Black Cat OD-1 can go from clean, to slightly crunchy, to all-out saturated distortion. It is unique in that it is extremely sensitive to the guitar; it responds to the player's pick attack, and like a good Fuzz Face, it cleans up well when you roll back the volume on the guitar. The Black Cat OD-1 has been used by Scott Henderson, Steve Lukather, Beck, Lyle Workman, Kyle Cook (Matchbox Twenty), and many others.
man, you guys are starting the new year off with a bang!! on this one, the layout says 15x9, but maybe should read 15x10? also, is the value of the 430R resistor critical, or can i sub it with a close value? thanks guys, keep up the good work!!
ReplyDeleteWell spotted, it was a test and you won! :o) No the 430R isn't critical, use anything around there, preferably lower so 390R would probably be a good choice
Deleteyou can tag this one verified. a nice easy build that sounds really good to my ear. i've been playing around with this and a tele through an old champ and it goes from bluesy to crunchy and seems to be usable at every setting i've tried. i like it.
ReplyDeleteExcellent, nice one matey. First verification of 2013! :o)
DeleteI'm a bit late, but yeah, it works fine and.... fits in a 1590A! Tried it with two B pots, so, the behaviour is not natural, but the sound is really cool.
ReplyDeleteI'll order now two log 9mm alpha's to Mammoth, hope next week I can box this effect.
BR
Sounds good with jrc4558 to if you havnt got a op275
ReplyDeleteGpm
I've tried with a NE5532 and a AD712. Sound great with both, maybe better and more round sound with the AD, but don't forget that this is a very expensive hifi opamp. I'm waiting some Tayda's OP275 to come, so I'll be able to let you know if I find noticeable differences.
DeleteBR
Gold star for Atomicwombat, perhaps!? If I had picked up a soldering iron today I think I would have lost an eye!!
ReplyDeletehahaha! that would be my first gold star in like 25 years!! and i do some of my best work with a few beers in me! of course, i do some of my worst work with a few more in me, so its a good thing i get up early!
ReplyDeleteHave just built this with a OP275 and works just as in the video. It is also worth watching this viseo as well for more detail http://youtu.be/3_F66Mev7oA. I used a linear pot on the volume which has worked fine but you do need a log on the gain.
ReplyDeleteThis is well worth the build.
Thanks Mark and Miro.
Well, the 6th Dwarf is here:
ReplyDeletehttp://img213.imageshack.us/img213/3996/blackcatok.jpg
Still have not received the OP275, so have to use still de NE5532. Sounds great anyway.
Tomorro I hope to finish the FuzzRong, to be able to build the Hyperion on Sunday, busy weekend :P
BR
Just to comment, that I always forget to tell it:
ReplyDelete-There's little mistake on the links and cuts image: 1st link should be on 2nd column, not third, I could see it the hard way :P
- The vero is 15x10, but the ninth row is useless, so you can just ommit it and still no nedd to place the 100k resistor standind-up (every mm counts when building in a 1590A :P)
BR
I've corrected the link. I originally had this as 15 x 9 but it meant the bottom 100K resistor would have needed to be either a 1/8W or standing so I increased it a row. I bought a set of 1/8W resistors specifically for 3 row spans, but not everyone will have them and so I will still avoid doing it if I can, as long as it doesn't make the layout awkwardly large.
DeleteHi. Could this be run at 18v if the caps can take it?
ReplyDeleteCheers.
Mark.
Yes no problem
DeleteHaving tried this at 18v the fuzz/overdrive character is not dirty enough for my taste - is sounds more like a cheap multi-effect. So sticking with 9v.
DeleteReceived today (finally! don't know what happens lately with Singapore Post, is the third order I get from Tayda that takes more than a month) the lot of OP275s (great price by the way, not even 1 euro /piece with 15% coupon).
ReplyDeleteIf this effect did sound awesome with the NE5532, with the OP275 is just superb. This OD is really a must, just miss a tone knob.
Anyway, imho, one of the best overdrives I've ever tried, and is really easy to build. A really enjoyable pedal by all means.
BR
I just finished this one. It sounds great. Sort of a Leslie West / Mountain sound. I used a 470R for the 430R but other than that bone stock. Have to wait until tomorrow to open it up. Thanks for the hard work
ReplyDeleteI just built this one today. IMO, it's a dark sounding overdrive with a fizzy note decay so it's definitely not my cup of tea at all. its biggest strength is that it does clean up well with the instrument's volume control, but I still find it to be just meh. I also tried it at 18V but IMO, it doesn't benefit from running it at a higher voltage. to give it some highs, I ran a Cornish buffer in front of it and it did yield a lot more clarity in the top end, but it also lost some low end. i'm thinking of changing a few of the coupling caps to higher values and then running the Cornish in front of to see if I can get both the top end and low end out of it.
ReplyDeleteI revisited my build of this one and tried 20 different types of opamps in it.(BTW, this circuit has actually been around for a long time under various names). the earlier ones used an LM1458 instead of a an OP275. not being too thrilled with it's dark sound and fizzy note decay, I tried 20 different opamps in mine tonight (LF353N, LF358N, OPA2134, JRC4558D & DD, JRC4580D, JRC4559D , JRC4562, LM833N, OPA2604, NE5532, LM1458, HA1458, OP275, LM258, LM2904, MC4558P, etc) and found the OPA 2604 to solve the note decay issue and sound the best. It actually makes the pedal a tiny bit darker than some of the other chips, so I changed the 100p cap to a 12p, and the last 220p to a 200p one and the pedal is great now. it now has more top end that the original circuit and has no fizzy note decay.
ReplyDeleteCan you tell me some of the other names this has been marketed as?
DeleteThis thing has too much gain for me but I love the tones. Is there a resistor I can change to pull it back a bit? I get that I can turn the gain dial down, just thought there would be a way to permanently knock it down a notch. Thanks for the great veros!
ReplyDeleteJust wanted to add that I don't know heaps about IC workings but at a guess the 470k is the one I need to modify but not sure in which direction if that's the case. :)
DeleteReduce the 470K resistor, that sets the gain for the first opamp channel. It may be worth replacing it with a 470K trimmer so you can fine tune it to the setting you want, but still allowing you to pump up the gain in the future if you feel the need.
DeleteBrilliant, thanks so much :)
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DeleteMy build works and sounds great but I feel it is a little too bassy. What would you suggest as a good way to tackle this? Perhaps swapping the 220p cap for one of a lower value?
ReplyDeleteAny suggestions are greatly appreciated!
No I don't think that will affect anything. The 100p at the other side could be reduced but I think the best way would be to lower the 100n input cap which will reduce the bass going into the circuit at the start.
DeleteSorry to ask another silly question but can you confirm that the input cap is the one just to the left top corner of the IC?
DeleteYes it is
DeleteSounds like a plan, thanks again for replying. What sort of value would you recommend?
ReplyDeleteI'd say socket it, then you can fine tune it to your own gear, but I'd be tempted to start at 47n and go from there
DeleteThat's great, mate. Thanks a lot for your help!
DeleteHey IVlark.You mentioned about reducing the 100nf cap to a lower value to lower the bass.Are you talking about the 100nf cap the 2nd from the left on the layout?Just wanted to make sure if I had it right! :)
ReplyDeleteIt is the 100n cap that spans row 2 and 4 with the bottom leg connected to the input wire on row 4. Sounds like that's the one you're pointing to.
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ReplyDeleteCool!I thought I had it right,just wanted to make sure.Thanks tinkercreak!
ReplyDeleteIs there a way to add a tone knob? I am thinking replacing the 100k between gain2 and ground with a 100k pot would work. Is that correct?
ReplyDeleteI've built this twice and I quite like it. It's very responsive to dynamics and the guitar's volume pot. It's a little dark for my taste though. Is there a simple mod to let a little more highs through? Is it the 100pf and 220pf caps that would need some tweaking? Also, is it suppose to be dead quiet with the gain at zero? Both of mine are.
ReplyDeleteThe gain send the signal to the ground when is set at zero, so it's normal if it doens't sound at min setting. If you put a small resistor between the lug 1 and the ground you can have a min gain setting without cut volume.
DeleteAbout the dark sound you can to try to reduce the 100pF to 50pF or 20pF. If it become too noisy try to increase a 1nF or 2.2nF the 220pF on the right side of the board to cut highest frequency.
Increasing high frequency maybe the it will be more aggressive, if you don't like you could reduce the 470k resistor a bit to tame it and in case try again the new caps I suggested to change.
You just need some experiments.
Let us to know!
Thanks, man! Would that be as simple as adding a resistor at the bottom row? Say between the 100k resistor and 100uf cap?
DeleteSorry, I don't know what you mean.
DeleteI can't see anything like adding resistors in the bottom row that could modify the circuit like you ask before.