Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
I am having a ton of trouble with this layout. Built it twice, first time with an older version, and this time with this one. Both times the same thing happened, no signal passed at all. I am getting voltage at all the correct pins in my IC's, and a little bit at the diodes (more at the 1n4742), but no signal is being passed. Let me know if you have any ideas about what could be wrong, I have checked my wiring and tried a few footswitch schemes and nothing worked, so I am assuming that something is awry on the board.
I've just been over it and can't see anything, it appears to match the schematic with the exception of the buffer components which I removed. Can you take a front and back pic and post the links so I can have a look?
Here is the top: http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/willbjorndahl/IMG_0935.jpg
And the bottom: http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/willbjorndahl/IMG_0936.jpg I had to create an extra row at the bottom, but I think I did it correctly. Thanks a lot for your help Mark!
Excellent, I had this setup to build because I couldn't see anything obvious with yours so thought I should try it myself to see how it ended up. Glad you got it going. Have you used an original Klon, or a complete clone? If so I wondered how you thought they compared to the 9V true bypass version? Thanks for verifying!
I have never tried any version of a real Klon, decided to build this one to try it out. So far it feels a little bit weird (spongy feeling compared to my usual Tube Screamer) but I can dig it. Im sure its comprable (at the least) to the real deal Klon.
So I built one using your layout and I'm having a few issues and I was wondering if you had any pointers. First of all, the build works, but I find that the output is greatly diminished compared to my other Klon builds that include a charge pump. This build seems to be unusable as a clean boost and while it does have a bit of boost, the gain knob must be nearly dimed. As well, if the gain pot is at zero (or close to it) the pedal cuts out and pops slightly, regardless of the levels of the treble/volume knobs. It seems that the lower portion of the gain knob is not getting along with the circuit. Any advice as to what could be causing this? Thanks!
I haven't built this yet so don't know from my own experiences, but I did read in the original thread on FSB that the output was lower than the complete Klon(e). Yours does seem to be more extreme than they described though, maybe Will can offer some info about how his compares to your description?
I deleted my original reply, I thought this was the full Klon thread. This version is designed for true bypass switching and so removes the buffer components and it also omits the charge pump and instead both ICs run at 9V. If you're a member of FSB, read earthtonesaudio's post here:
I've got mine through ebay - those chips aren't particularly cheap though. May be worth noting that i didn't notice anything different soundwise when comparing TLC2262 and TL072. I was to build any klon again, i would probably go with NE5532 or AD712. +m
Can this be ran at 18V also, or is this strictly 9V. I already tried slowly raising the voltage to 15V but didn't dare to go further as the current consumption seemed to go up as well.
Just finished this build and got it working after I re-reamed one of the cuts Am getting decent output with the volume dimed and am satisfied with the sound. For the diodes, I used 2 NTE 109s which are supposed to be equivalent to OA92s. The only issue I am having is that I cannot get the LED to light up. Hooked up the + side to the LED+ wire and negative end to the switch. I am assuming that the on board 3.9K resistor eliminates the need for any other resistors for the LED. Any ideas why the LED is not working? Swapped it out with another one with no luck.
Found the problem. Forgot to connect the ground wire on the 3PDT switch. Unit is working great now and I am getting plenty of output from it. Originally built this for a friend but am going to have to build another one to add to my pedal board.
This circuit could also really use an additional filter cap for the supply voltage. I put a 220uf in, and it helped the hum from a wall-wart significantly. Also, the 100k resistor on the bottom right of the board can be increases a little to get a bit more output, right?
The zener will drop the voltage so yes if you want to run it at 18V don't bother with it. Make sure the ICs you're using can handle it though, I have shown a TLC2262 here which has a maximum voltage of 16V which is why I kept the zener in the layout.
Okay I hate to sound like I have no clue what I'm doing, but I don't think I do. So the Input goes to the middle pin on the switch? Where is the output? off of the volume pot?
The layout drawing shows the input between the 9v and the LED leads. The last note on the drawing reads "Volume 2 to output". The rest of what you need is here-> http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
I'm going crazy with this build.... I am a novice, I just copy what i see and am learning every build. Most of the builds work perfectly. With the klon I started with the simplified trua bypass, didn't work.
Then the one with the one with the icl7660S true bypass, nothing again.
For the 390N I used two paralel caps. for the 422k resistor I just user a 430K. For the zener I used a 12V 1,3 W Could that be the problem???? The parts list says a 12V 500mW.... A 1n4742 is not available where I live. I
any sutable subs for the tlc2262 ? ... can't find them locally and kind of in a hurry so ordering them isn't an option (for now) ... mirosol said he "didn't notice anything different soundwise when comparing TLC2262 and TL072" ... but is this with both ic's beeing the same? I can find the normal bunch around here - 072, 082, 4558, 4559, 4580.
Can anyone help me with this build? Signal is good fot a couple of seconds when power connected but then futzes down to a rasp and then quiet clean signal. The gain pot then seems to die off about half way towards maximum gain. Can't find any shorts or bridges in the circuit. Shorting out one of the 47uF electrolytics momentarily restores gain but I'm note entirely sure where to go with that.
IC1 looks ok apart from maybe pin 7 being a little low, but IC2 is wrong on so many levels. Pins 3 and 5 are connected to vref via a link and so should be at half the supply voltage, which is provided by the 2 x 27K resistors that connect from vref to supply and ground, making a voltage divider. You're getting different readings at pins 3 and 5, and that just can't happen if the links are connected as shown. Have you put the double link where it is shown next to D3? What voltage are you getting between Gain 1 lug 2 and ground?
Thanks for the reply. IC2 escaped down the gap between the floorboards yesterday so rather than pull the floor up i'm going to order another one in. Any 2262 variant I should be aiming towards?
Double-checked that double link and the upper part of it had no continuity with the lower part, resoldered the connection adjacent to teh 47u cap and now seem to be getting consistent voltages across the IC2 socket.
Voltage between gain lug 2 and ground (both channels) is 4.72v
Thanks for the tip off, really helpd a newbie narrow things down.
In most schematics and layouts they use a matching pair. So D1 and D2 are both OA91 or 1N277. No one is 100% sure what diodes are in the original but Mark is suggesting these two varieties come very close. You can stick in whatever combo you want though. Some people swear BAT41s are even better or 1N34A or a mix of any.
I'm no dual gang aficionado but if a dual gang pot is really just two normal pots together I doubt it makes any difference which row you use for which as long as you get lugs 3-2-1 correct on each pot. Dual gangs are often used for L and R stereo functions so each pot needs to work identical even though it's one giant pot. Happy to be corrected cos all of this statement is a guesstimate.
I built this one today and it fired up first try but it's very dark sounding and there doesn't seem to be much of a tonal sweep when turning the treble control. Fully CC is slightly more bassy, fully CW is slightly brighter, but the difference is barely audible, and the full sweep is much muddier than the bypassed signal. Gain sweep seems normal. Not much volume on tap... I understand that this one is not as loud as the charge pump version but even dimed there's only a slight boost from unity volume. Any ideas?
I was able to fix the gain rotation cutting out completely by snipping the 3k9 CLR resistor. I opted to connect the LED the traditional way (off board wiring FAQ), rather than connect the + LED leg to the board itself.
After I removed that, it worked great, and sounds great too! Just like my Aion Electronics Klon KTR clone! (minus some available output volume)
Can I simply add a charge pump daughter board to this if I wanted to run it at 18v? also Would two TL072s work with this like the Klon Rev2 layout has?
Is there any way to increase the volume? It seams that full volume is unity volume. Have had this problem on both of these I have built. Otherwise, it sounds great.
I am having a ton of trouble with this layout. Built it twice, first time with an older version, and this time with this one. Both times the same thing happened, no signal passed at all. I am getting voltage at all the correct pins in my IC's, and a little bit at the diodes (more at the 1n4742), but no signal is being passed. Let me know if you have any ideas about what could be wrong, I have checked my wiring and tried a few footswitch schemes and nothing worked, so I am assuming that something is awry on the board.
ReplyDeleteHi Will, I'll go over it later today and see if I can spot anything. Thanks for the feedback.
DeleteI've just been over it and can't see anything, it appears to match the schematic with the exception of the buffer components which I removed. Can you take a front and back pic and post the links so I can have a look?
DeleteHere is the top: http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/willbjorndahl/IMG_0935.jpg
ReplyDeleteAnd the bottom: http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/willbjorndahl/IMG_0936.jpg
I had to create an extra row at the bottom, but I think I did it correctly.
Thanks a lot for your help Mark!
Hey Mark.
ReplyDeleteFound a few solder bridges on my build, fixed them and now it works just fine.
Consider this verified.
Excellent, I had this setup to build because I couldn't see anything obvious with yours so thought I should try it myself to see how it ended up. Glad you got it going.
DeleteHave you used an original Klon, or a complete clone? If so I wondered how you thought they compared to the 9V true bypass version? Thanks for verifying!
I have never tried any version of a real Klon, decided to build this one to try it out.
ReplyDeleteSo far it feels a little bit weird (spongy feeling compared to my usual Tube Screamer) but I can dig it.
Im sure its comprable (at the least) to the real deal Klon.
So I built one using your layout and I'm having a few issues and I was wondering if you had any pointers. First of all, the build works, but I find that the output is greatly diminished compared to my other Klon builds that include a charge pump. This build seems to be unusable as a clean boost and while it does have a bit of boost, the gain knob must be nearly dimed.
ReplyDeleteAs well, if the gain pot is at zero (or close to it) the pedal cuts out and pops slightly, regardless of the levels of the treble/volume knobs. It seems that the lower portion of the gain knob is not getting along with the circuit. Any advice as to what could be causing this?
Thanks!
I haven't built this yet so don't know from my own experiences, but I did read in the original thread on FSB that the output was lower than the complete Klon(e). Yours does seem to be more extreme than they described though, maybe Will can offer some info about how his compares to your description?
DeleteHow does this compare to the circuit used in the real Klon Centaur?
ReplyDeleteHow does this compare to the circuit used in the real Klon Centaur?
ReplyDeleteI deleted my original reply, I thought this was the full Klon thread. This version is designed for true bypass switching and so removes the buffer components and it also omits the charge pump and instead both ICs run at 9V. If you're a member of FSB, read earthtonesaudio's post here:
Deletehttp://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7526
That explains his theory behind it and why he suggests the end results will be comparable.
Anyone know a cheap (to the UK) source for the TLC2262? - or is there an equivalent which wont sound noticeably different?
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Ian
I've got mine through ebay - those chips aren't particularly cheap though. May be worth noting that i didn't notice anything different soundwise when comparing TLC2262 and TL072. I was to build any klon again, i would probably go with NE5532 or AD712.
Delete+m
Ah, ok - thanks.
ReplyDeleteHi Mark...is there a kit available for this version too??
ReplyDeleteCan this be ran at 18V also, or is this strictly 9V. I already tried slowly raising the voltage to 15V but didn't dare to go further as the current consumption seemed to go up as well.
ReplyDeleteJust finished this build and got it working after I re-reamed one of the cuts Am getting decent output with the volume dimed and am satisfied with the sound. For the diodes, I used 2 NTE 109s which are supposed to be equivalent to OA92s. The only issue I am having is that I cannot get the LED to light up. Hooked up the + side to the LED+ wire and negative end to the switch. I am assuming that the on board 3.9K resistor eliminates the need for any other resistors for the LED. Any ideas why the LED is not working? Swapped it out with another one with no luck.
ReplyDeleteFound the problem. Forgot to connect the ground wire on the 3PDT switch. Unit is working great now and I am getting plenty of output from it. Originally built this for a friend but am going to have to build another one to add to my pedal board.
DeleteThis circuit could also really use an additional filter cap for the supply voltage. I put a 220uf in, and it helped the hum from a wall-wart significantly.
ReplyDeleteAlso, the 100k resistor on the bottom right of the board can be increases a little to get a bit more output, right?
Hi,
ReplyDeletecan I use 1n270 instead of 1n277 ?
or even 1n34a?...
thanks
Hey just trying to recall for the life of me what width vero will fit in a 1590B? Is it 21 columns/rows with the edges filed?
ReplyDelete22 will fit in with the edges filed down
DeleteD3 1n4742 = 12v Zener diode? Can I run this pedal @18v with such a diode in D3?
ReplyDeleteThe zener will drop the voltage so yes if you want to run it at 18V don't bother with it. Make sure the ICs you're using can handle it though, I have shown a TLC2262 here which has a maximum voltage of 16V which is why I kept the zener in the layout.
DeleteThank you for the hint ;-)
DeleteOkay I hate to sound like I have no clue what I'm doing, but I don't think I do. So the Input goes to the middle pin on the switch? Where is the output? off of the volume pot?
ReplyDeleteThe layout drawing shows the input between the 9v and the LED leads. The last note on the drawing reads "Volume 2 to output". The rest of what you need is here-> http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
DeleteI'm going crazy with this build....
ReplyDeleteI am a novice, I just copy what i see and am learning every build. Most of the builds work perfectly.
With the klon I started with the simplified trua bypass, didn't work.
Then the one with the one with the icl7660S true bypass, nothing again.
For the 390N I used two paralel caps. for the 422k resistor I just user a 430K.
For the zener I used a 12V 1,3 W Could that be the problem????
The parts list says a 12V 500mW.... A 1n4742 is not available where I live.
I
The zener doesn't matter, in fact you could snip it out and it wouldn't change anything. Post all the IC voltages to see if that gives us any clues
Deleteany sutable subs for the tlc2262 ? ... can't find them locally and kind of in a hurry so ordering them isn't an option (for now) ... mirosol said he "didn't notice anything different soundwise when comparing TLC2262 and TL072" ... but is this with both ic's beeing the same? I can find the normal bunch around here - 072, 082, 4558, 4559, 4580.
ReplyDeleteCan anyone help me with this build? Signal is good fot a couple of seconds when power connected but then futzes down to a rasp and then quiet clean signal. The gain pot then seems to die off about half way towards maximum gain. Can't find any shorts or bridges in the circuit. Shorting out one of the 47uF electrolytics momentarily restores gain but I'm note entirely sure where to go with that.
ReplyDeleteUpdate on this, I'm using a TLC2262CP for IC2, is there another 2262 variant I should be using instead (2262AIP?) voltages are all over the place:
DeleteIC2
Pin 1: 0-47.5mV (so far, gradually rising),
Pin 2: 2.81V
Pin 3: oscillating really fast
Pin 4: 0v
Pin 5: 0-175mV (and rising...)
Pin 6: 0-1.87V (and rising...)
Pin 7: 0-3.5V (and rising...)
Pin 8: 9.48V
Also, IC2 seems really wide open to interference - hovering a finger anywhere near it produces a loud hum.
Here are my IC1 readings, if useful...
1: 4.12V
2: 4.12V
3: 3.32V
4: 0V
5: 3.14V
6: 3.82V
7: 1.31V
8: 9.48V
Forgot to say, thanks for a great blog!
DeleteIC1 looks ok apart from maybe pin 7 being a little low, but IC2 is wrong on so many levels. Pins 3 and 5 are connected to vref via a link and so should be at half the supply voltage, which is provided by the 2 x 27K resistors that connect from vref to supply and ground, making a voltage divider. You're getting different readings at pins 3 and 5, and that just can't happen if the links are connected as shown. Have you put the double link where it is shown next to D3? What voltage are you getting between Gain 1 lug 2 and ground?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThanks for the reply. IC2 escaped down the gap between the floorboards yesterday so rather than pull the floor up i'm going to order another one in. Any 2262 variant I should be aiming towards?
ReplyDeleteDouble-checked that double link and the upper part of it had no continuity with the lower part, resoldered the connection adjacent to teh 47u cap and now seem to be getting consistent voltages across the IC2 socket.
Voltage between gain lug 2 and ground (both channels) is 4.72v
Thanks for the tip off, really helpd a newbie narrow things down.
Hi _
ReplyDeleteIn most schematics and layouts they use a matching pair. So D1 and D2 are both OA91 or 1N277. No one is 100% sure what diodes are in the original but Mark is suggesting these two varieties come very close. You can stick in whatever combo you want though. Some people swear BAT41s are even better or 1N34A or a mix of any.
I'm no dual gang aficionado but if a dual gang pot is really just two normal pots together I doubt it makes any difference which row you use for which as long as you get lugs 3-2-1 correct on each pot. Dual gangs are often used for L and R stereo functions so each pot needs to work identical even though it's one giant pot. Happy to be corrected cos all of this statement is a guesstimate.
:)
Correct :o)
DeleteI built this one today and it fired up first try but it's very dark sounding and there doesn't seem to be much of a tonal sweep when turning the treble control. Fully CC is slightly more bassy, fully CW is slightly brighter, but the difference is barely audible, and the full sweep is much muddier than the bypassed signal. Gain sweep seems normal. Not much volume on tap... I understand that this one is not as loud as the charge pump version but even dimed there's only a slight boost from unity volume. Any ideas?
ReplyDeleteHey Jon Webster or anyone, figured out the low volume output or gain pot cutting out a little past half way?
ReplyDeleteI was able to fix the gain rotation cutting out completely by snipping the 3k9 CLR resistor. I opted to connect the LED the traditional way (off board wiring FAQ), rather than connect the + LED leg to the board itself.
DeleteAfter I removed that, it worked great, and sounds great too! Just like my Aion Electronics Klon KTR clone! (minus some available output volume)
Can I simply add a charge pump daughter board to this if I wanted to run it at 18v? also Would two TL072s work with this like the Klon Rev2 layout has?
ReplyDeleteIs there any way to increase the volume? It seams that full volume is unity volume. Have had this problem on both of these I have built. Otherwise, it sounds great.
ReplyDelete