The Hyperion is everything the Big Muff wishes it could be. It can cut
through in a loud, live, band setting. It has a gorgeous sustain that
full of harmonically rich tonal characteristics that doesn’t require
much tweaking of your amp, guitar, or pedal board to get just the right
sound you are looking for. The gain control is incredibly interactive
allowing for intense over the top octavia-style leads, wooly gainy
rhythm, or pulled back all the way gives you just enough grit with out
being too gated. The Hyperion is also the first pedal to have the honor
of being stolen and cloned by another pedal company (and sold for twice
the price no less!). So while most people are cloning and tweaking the
Big Muff… it looks like some people are beginning to find it more
useful to clone and tweak the Hyperion… and rightfully, because a modern
age, deserves a modern high gain fuzz worth imitating.
Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
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I'm like a kid in a sweet shop!
ReplyDeleteYes they seem to sound the same but for some reason I fall for every one of them. Keep the Devi's coming Mark....
parts ordered :)
Ditto the 1st part of the above comment. Currently putting it together & I'm like "where's the input go dude?". I've probed, but can't seem to fathom!
ReplyDeleteThe circuit input goes to lug 2 of the intense pot. In the same way that lug 2 of the volume pot is the circuit output.
ReplyDeleteI had to read it a few times before it sank in.
Thanks Tony. Wow I never spotted that until just now!! Doh! Need new specs!
ReplyDeleteYou just got your 101st verified duder! Sounds fuckin' huge!
ReplyDeleteYay! :o) Cheers Matt
DeleteHey mark big fan of your work ;)
DeleteI was wondering if you could do a quick layout for the effector 13 test pattern?
Hhttp://i.imgur.com/nb5TBal.pngre is a link for the schematic.
Holy crap! F@*king awesome fuzz! Afraid to say this has booted the Meathead out of the bed and took a shit in it!
ReplyDeleteAgree with Milkit...HUGE!
Cheers Mark :)
is there a difference between a 2N2907 AND A 2N2907A?
ReplyDeleteI've got both. I don't know if either are available in other body types or whether there are any other differences (the datasheet specs look the same), but in mine the 2N2907 are metal can TO18, the 2N2907A are TO92.
DeleteI couldn't wait for the mailorder parts, so I went to the local Radio Shack and bought a grab bag of trans that claimed it had some 2n2907A's in it. It turned out to be MPS2907A which I used anyway and it worked great. Is anyone else getting the octave effect up high with the neck pickup? With my P90's it is very pronounced. Anyway, thanks again. You should have a place for readers to display their pedals. I love seeing what people do with pedal design and wiring. Take care
DeleteYes I'd love to be able to include something like that, but I don't think it's a feature I can include with Blogger. I'll have a look into it though.
DeleteAwesome! Finished and it work!
ReplyDeleteMark, can make any sense of this? it's to mod the hyperion to the hyperion 2 with oscillation control knob.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.deviever.com/fx/forum/viewtopic.php?f=192&t=10148
DeleteI'll do a new layout for it later
DeleteLove this fuzz. Thanks Mark!
ReplyDeletethis is schematic is correto?
ReplyDeletehttp://h12.abload.de/img/hyperionh70n.gif
Any chance of more Devi Ever schematics? From her DIY kits it seems like she uses similar layouts with just component swaps. Would love the Legend of Fuzz, Aenima, Year of the Rat or Ruby!
ReplyDeleteShannon - Check out these:
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2011/05/devi-ever-us-fuzz.html
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/Layouts/Schematics/Deviae_tp_nd_us.gif
From those links you can easily build US Fuzz, Aenima, Torn's Peaker and Neverdrive.
I built one with all four switchable using the US layout. Then i used Disaster/Crackle for another stomp switch :) So basically Mark has about 10 Devi designs up here.
+m
Not really good with schematics yet, that's the problem. Vero boards are where I'm at right now. I'll save it for later though.
DeleteI'll do any that I can find a verified schematic for, so I'll have a look for the ones you mentioned, although the Aenima is definitely covered by the US Fuzz layout by swapping the 220K resistor on the left hand side for a 100K.
DeleteSince it's 1 resistor swap, can you somehow rig up a 2 position switch to have both effects in 1 MXR sized case?
DeleteYes.. Just take two wires from where the resistor is and solder them to two pole two position switch's lugs 2 and 5. Then solder 10K resistor between lugs 1 and 4. And 220K resistor between lugs 3 and 6. That's it.
DeleteAnother mod would be using two switches for those 2N2222s.. As that makes it Never Drive. I covered that in my comments about US Fuzz..
+m
So run a wire from Row 1, Column 3 to Lug 2 of the DPDT switch, run a wire from Lug 5 back to the board at Row 7 Column 3. Then solder 1 resistor across the top set of lugs for the Aenima and another across the bottom set for the US Fuzz?
DeleteI answered on US Fuzz comments to avoid confusion..
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2011/05/devi-ever-us-fuzz.html
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Hi!
DeleteTo make a aenima or torn's peaker we can swapping the 220k resistor on the left hand side for a 100k (aenima) or 10 k(torn's peaker) but there is still an 10K resistor and two 100K resistors to including in the vero ... isn'it? But where to put them ?
I'll probably draw those up as their own layouts as some point...
Delete+m
These are the latest Schematics from the new forum.. not sure if there is anything new though.....
ReplyDeletehttp://www.deviever.com/fx/diy-schematics/
Thanks Vince, I'll do a couple more from these.
Deleteis there a cap value i can tweek to lower a bit the treble ?
ReplyDeleteThanks
Well the 47n really needs increasing to a 100n anyway which should let more bass through, but all the 100n caps could probably do with increasing if you want more low end. Or you could try a small value cap like 47pf across the base and collector of the transistors. That method is used in quite a few pedals to tame the high end a bit, and although I've never seen it done in a Hyperion it's cartainly worth a try first because it's a quick mod.
DeleteIs there any way to remove gate.?
DeleteThank you very much !
ReplyDeleteI'll try that and let you know
Hi Mark..I seem to have a lot of fiz at the highest intesity, almost as if it goes a little too high on the B100 as a quarter turn back its not so noticeable..what do you think i can do to fix this problem..was wondering if the 47pf on the transistors would do the trick as its very much on the treble side..trouble is..im not sure how to go abt this..you say its a easy mod but with my transistors in sockets..I cant get anything else to fit in with them..or do you mean solder them to the underside of the pins ( worried abt shorting there )..or is there a way to get them in on the board with the other components..or indeed a different value intensity pot ??
ReplyDeleteThis thing is a MONSTER on bass, and is getting boxed ASAP. It doesn't have quite as much low end as my Big Muff, but with the Intense pot, it is more versatile. I notice a bit of sputtery Octavia-esque stuff in the upper 3/4 of the rotation, but for me, the bottom half of the sweep is where it's at. Highly recommended.
ReplyDeleteThis is an epic fuzz, i put a switchable volume attenuator in mine so that i could have a preset rhythm fuzz sound, turning off the attenuator then gets me the big over the top lead sound.
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteWill build the Hyperion this weekend to reuse the components of the Electric Brown, that I did not like very much finally.
Just a note Mark, reviewing Devi's notes about this pedal, the volume is 100k log, not lin as marked on the vero.
BR
I dont think it really makes much difference in this pedal, the thing is so loud that you never really turn it up much anyway (unless you wanna kill your audience!).
ReplyDelete:P Yeah, that's the reason why I think it would be better to use a log, as with lin the sharp response would be even before.
ReplyDeleteI still remeber when I used a lin pot in the Stone Grey Distortion volume... it could blow the whole amp at 1!
BR
I think i used linear vol pot in mine and it dont turn mine up past about 9 or 10 o clock. Turning up the intensity also seems to raise the volume dramatically. Are you building this version or the Hyperion 2?
ReplyDeleteCheers
Dave
Yes, this is the one that i want to build. The version 2 with the oscillations drive me mad (have had enough noises with the Fuzz factory and the Supersonic Fuzz Gun).
DeleteBR
Just finished wiring this effect. Well, the OK and the Electric Brown seemed useless to me, but the Hyperion.... don't know which words to use... huge, brutal, killer.... or just "la hostia".
DeleteI felt in love with this pedal from the first chord and the first scale. Really socking effect. This one is a must for sure. Will box it tomorrow without any doubt.
BR
Mark, one more question,
ReplyDeleteBeen checking the Devi's schematic and I find trhee differences between the original and this vero:
1. In the Devi's there's no 100uF cap. I assume that is a noise filtering and should not affect the final sound, but would like to ask.
2. The Intense 1 to ground resistor is 1k in the original, but you placed a 10k, any reason / sound difference?
3. The most important difference I see, is that between Q1 collectot and Q2 base, there's one more 100nF cap connected in serial with the existing one in your vero, that could be placed where you placed a bridge-link Did you take it off for any reason?
BR
1) Yes, although with fuzzes we've found that it CAN affect the final sound, particularly things like this. It can have an affect on the character of the fuzz and calm things down a bit, so if it doesn't sound quite right then snip it out and see what you think.
Delete2) Cock up. Corrected :o) It wouldn't make too much difference though to be honest. That sets the minimum gain level and I can't see too many people using this in a low gain setting.
3) I read something that Devi wrote where she said the only reason why there were two caps there was because it was originally two separate circuits that had been joined together, and so one was originally an output cap, the other an input cap and only one was really required. Shouldn't make any difference at all to the final sound.
Thank you Mark, i'll replace the 10k for 1k, for starving fuzz sounds can be useful.
DeleteNot sure anyway about the 2 caps in series. While they seem to be a remain of the two original circuits, in fact being in series, the capacitance is reduced from 100 to 50nF collector to base... I'll try replacing the existing capacitor with a 47nF.
I'm using too as stated on Devi's notes a 100k log for volume, it gets a less extreme response.
Thank you very much once again!
When I originally did the layout I used a 47n cap until I saw Devi mention that a single 100n was all that was needed. Thinking about it, they would both do the same coupling job, but a 100n will let a wider range of frequencies through and so I thought it made sense to change it to 100n
DeleteThanks again Mark. Well, just finished the pedal.
Delete1. I tried taking off the 100uF cap. The effect gets even meaner :) As my power supply gets no noise, i finally did not put it on again, so in my opinion: no 100uF
2. Replaced the 100nF cap from Q1 Collector to Q2 Base. No really a great audible difference, just a hardly noticebale less bass. I put the 100nF cap again.
3. With the 100k log on volume, this is much more controlable. With a 100k lin, it gets unusable from 10 o'clock.
This is a guts pic (notice the 1k resistor ib barely visible between the 100 nf caps):
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/8900/hyperionguts.jpg
And the pedal one:
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/5863/hyperionok.jpg
Nice and productive weekend, three boxed pedals finally :))
Hi Thanks for the wiring layout. I built one last week. However, the sound is weird, low vol, very short sustain. If I removed the 100uf cap, the sound goes to normal. I used 100uf 35v cap, anything wrong with the cap?? Thanks a lot.
ReplyDeleteNo that's the 100u doing it's intended job of removing noise, unfortunately with a pedal like this it also has a detrimental affect on the fuzz sound as well so I'd leave it off.
Deleteboxed this one up too, sounds great on both guitar and bass.
ReplyDeletehttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/tomkogut/photo2-1_zpsce6e3b16.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/tomkogut/photo1-1_zpsbce3e370.jpg
Hi guys... would anyone care to explain their offboard wiring for this circuit?
ReplyDeleteAll I'm getting is weird oscillations and I think I've either wired the switch up incorrecly or I've forgotten to ground something.
Could it be you have the sleeve, ring and tip mixed on either one of the jacks? That must be the most common cause..
Delete+m
I think the jack wiring is ok. I have the input tip going to the switch. The switch goes to the gain pot. Pot goes to the board. Then from the board to the volume pot. Then from the pot to the output tip, and there is a ground from the switch to the output ring.
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DeleteOk so I have built this fuzz but there's not as much gain as I was expecting. Also the battery gets quite warm, and the ground point I've made on the pedal enclosure is kinda painful to touch... any ideas?
ReplyDeleteYou must have a short in there somewhere. Would explain all your symptoms. If you're getting shocked by the enclosure, you're not getting it to ground, but it is acting as a heating resistor - that happens when it gets both, + and - charges. Are you using isolated jacks, or is there some other reason for grounding the box with wires?
Delete+m
No matter if you get much or few distortion. If your battery gets hot and the ground point in the box get you burn, you have a short in the build, so be careful, you can blow your whole pedal (if not burnt yet)
DeleteSo checkthe +9v and ground rows to see if you have a little solder bridge, and the offboard wiring, to find crossed wires.
But first and most important: don't plug again a battery before checkin'!
Thanks guys... I'll have another look tomorrow.
DeleteHey has anyone tried wiring a blend knob with this effect yet?
ReplyDeleteI'm thinking of trying a pot after the board to blend some clean signal in. Would it be that easy, or would I need more power-sources/amplifiers?
Hi Mark, saw that 2N2907A is PNP? Also, I cant seem to find any in my country...Anything I could use instead NPN?
ReplyDeleteNo it needs to be PNP, try a 2N3906 or 2N5087 if you can't find the 2N2907A (although there are a ton of them for not a lot of money on eBay).
DeleteHey guys!
ReplyDeleteI just built this one, and I can't get a usefull sound out of it.
I mean:
1- too gated, like I can't even get any pinch harmonics. Too velcro-fuzz!
2- huge volume, HUGE! Like theres no middlepoint! almost like all or nothing!
Now as I was building it, I searched for shorts, bridges, checked the cuts and links, anda everything is fine!
One thing I miss the first time I powered on, I made a mistake and swapped Q3 for Q1, and got no sound at all, just a fizzzzzzz. So I correct the mistake and I got it working, but with this issues I stated above.
Two changes:
Delete- Swap the Volume pot with a 100K log one, not lin.
- Take off of the circuit the 100uf cap.
You'll get a useful volume knob. The 100uf cap, besides filtering noise, affects too much the sound.
Both changes are in the original schematics and doumentation from Devi herself.
BR
By the way, If you check the different demos on the net, you'll notice that this is a massive velcro fuzz :)
DeleteHello Javi, tks for your reply!
DeleteYes, I heard the demos before, I know it is "^velcro" type... but not so much as the one I built! Today I was trying the pedal again and one thing I noticed is it also lacks string definition, like if you play a chord you will hear the root and 5th, nothing more, just like "mashed" notes all over...
I mean, I can't get near any demo sound.
I will try taking off the 100uF cap and report back. Thanks a bunch!
I just checked devi ever schematic, there are 5 100nF, not 4 like this vero. There's no problem with that, right?
DeleteYou'll need to link the scheme or we have nothing to compare it to
DeleteMark, I think that is the usual one we all have checked a thousand times, http://www.deviever.com/fx/devi-ever-diy-schematics/#!prettyPhoto[Gallery]/7/
DeleteZedsnotdead probably refers to the 2 consecutive ones, remain of when the Hyperion was two linked effects.
If so, don't worry, taking off one of these 100nf caps, and lettin' just one in the circuit is correct, so finally you'll only find 4 100nf caps, not 5.
BR
omg...omg...
Deleteso I took off the 100uF... and realized that Q3 was inverted! I mean, colector was grounded
*facepalm*
anyway, corrected things, but while is sound much better it is SO noisy!! I mean it just oscilates like theres no tomorrow :(
Was it the 100uF cap that was avoiding this?
@Mark, yes the schematic is the one at Devi's that Javi was pointing out.
OK, 1 month later... the hyperion is 100%. The noise was caused by the low-quality transformer. I just plugged a 9V battery and no noise at all.
Deletehere it is.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/694/p7k0.jpg/
So... how does it sound? Lets say the moment I did a G chord I had to step back a few feet. It's freakin' HUGE! Massive gain but VERY defined. Think of NiN hi-gain riffs. Really, it's that awesome!
Is there a way to remove the gate..i like this pedal very much but gate sometimes shutsoff the note
DeleteI want to build it, too, and I didn't think it was too gated. It should be more gated at low gain setting.
DeleteProbably it's the nature of the pedal.
I built this to but I don't like it either. But I think I made a mistake cause it a was very noisy. And one of the controls didn't do much. I have to make a probe I think
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DeleteHey, got this and No.2 going but volume is WAY below unity at maximum. All my cuts links etc. are good but can't figure this one out. Both circuits sound awesome just with really low volume. I used a BC557 for the PNP.
ReplyDeleteCheers, Thommo.
Verified(+). Build this thing. It has volume to blown away an amp. It´s gorgeous. Cut trough the band mix like a knife on butter. It has a modern flavour. Hope to find an vintage equivalent effect. For nowdays, it´s my main fuzz on live settings.
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DeleteStarve the circuit to add something that kind of works like a tone knob. The hyperion gets alot tamer if you do that. Beavis audio has a good tutorial to add a pot for this
ReplyDeleteI built this, and it sounds awesome, in most settings. With both knobs cranked up, it gets a horrible squealing noise. Is that just the nature of the circuit? It sounds really great at any other settings.
ReplyDeleteWeirdest thing,I can only get usable fuzz sound out if this with q1 inverted, which is backwards from the layout...
ReplyDeleteDouble check the manufacturers pinout. Many transistors have a different pinout
ReplyDeleteHi, I've just started this build, but I don't get what it means by Volume 2 to Output, and Input to Intense 2... Should there be wires coming from the board somewhere that are input and output?
ReplyDeleteVolume 2 means your volume pot's lug number 2. You solder a wire to that lug and the other end of that wire is your output. Same thing with intense.
Delete+m
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ReplyDeleteThe intensity is a "pre-gain" control
ReplyDeleteTo omit it you could take the input straight to the first 100n and omit the 1K resistor to ground
Or to simulate it turned all the way up, put a 100K and 1K in series to ground from the input, then take that to the 100n input cap. It will probably sound the same with or without the 1K (that's just there so the minimum intensity setting doesn't cut out all sound) so you should do fine with just the 100K to ground
I just decided to cram the both pots in the 1590A. It was drilled already, so I just put another hole in the back of the box. It's a tight fit but it works. Thanks for the reply. If I was more patient (not as bored) and waited for a reply I would have done that. Thanks.
DeleteIs it possible that all three transistors shown in the vero diagram are upside down? I'm using the beavis site as a reference: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Transistor-Pinouts/index.htm
ReplyDeleteBeavis image shows the pinout from the bottom with pins pointing at you.
DeleteFor reference: https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/MP/MPSA18.pdf
http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/MicroElectronics/mXrrvwu.pdf
+m
My bad. I built this and it just didn't sound right to my ears so I thought I might have the Ts in wrong, but on double checking, you are totally right - not sure what I was thinking.
DeleteNow I see what happened. I had tried the Karaoke Party before this one (link below) and the same Transistor is pictured the other way round. Thus the confusion. http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2012/01/devi-ever-karaoke-party.html If anyone builds the KP, note the pinout is correct on it but the diagram shape is backward. Or I'm just an idiot - that's possible :)
DeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDelete...And that's what you get for being a spambot.
Delete+m
Can someone help me out. This was my first build and it sounds great except a couple of notes, for instance G at the 12th fret, die off really abruptly but the rest ring out with days of sustain. Which component(s) make up the gate portion of the circuit?
ReplyDeleteI'm getting lot's of noise a bit of ground sensibility (touching the strings reduce the noise a little). I've tried everything I can think of (cap filter, I'm using a 9v battery, resoldered, changed transistors, tested for contacts...). The only thing I have tried is changing the caps, how likely can the capacitor be the problem? Any other ideas?
ReplyDeleteChanging the caps is the only think I HAVEN'T tried, is what I meant
DeleteCircuit is noisy by default. But. Since you touching the strings affect the brumm, i'd suggest triple checking the guitar grounds.
DeleteIs the noise still present with intensity at low setting and powered with a battery?
+m
I built this this weekend and it rocks. I initially had issues with the sound being quiet and the distortion fizzy, but I realized I had the input jack wired incorrectly and one of the transistors backwards. My first vero build. I have many many more planned! Thanks for this!
ReplyDeleteI'm having an issue with this build. Where do the input and output come off the board. Do they not come off the board?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteYou've gotta read the notes at the bottom of the layout. It tells you input goes to intense 2 and output comes from volume 2
ReplyDeleteThe output almost always comes from volume 2
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteSo I ordered the kit from mklec but have a couple questions I was hoping to get answered if anyone has a moment to help. Thanks!
ReplyDelete1. The kit comes with the 2N2709A transistor instead of the metal can 2N2709 I've seen in other builds. Is there a difference? Should I order some metal cans?
2. Kit also comes with 3 Polybox capacitors and 1 Polyester Film capacitor. Where is the film one supposed to be used. "C1" in the far left bottom corner of the layout would be my best guess since it seems to send to ground?? Any info on which is supposed to be film and why would be much appreciated!
3. General consensus seems to just be to leave 100uF cap off. Is that correct? Just dont put it in? Should I put some jumper wire in it's place or just ignore it all together? Seems like it's just to be ignored?
4. Also, what's the deal with some people saying there should be two caps of 100n in serial connecting Q1 and Q2 base or maybe just one 47n.
5. Lastly for an "Astro Mess" mod can I just send C and E of Q3 to a DPDT to set it up to swap the orientation of this transistor. I've heard that that's the only thing you need to do to add the "gate" switch for the astro mess. Except they seem to use two 2N2907 set up in opposite directions that the DPDT flips between. I assume this can just be done with one transistor though right? That is, if I'm on the right track at all here!
Thanks in advance if anyone has a moment to help out!!
1. You should be fine with your 2N2709A. Last time I ordered them the picture was the black casing but they sent me the metal cans.
Delete2. They should all be 100n so it shouldn't matter. As with the transistors, they probably just sent what they had in stock.
3.I prefer omitting the 100uf cap. You need to look at your board to see if they are using it to jump anything, but probably not.
4. The hyperion is to devi pedals combined (silver crank and dark boost) the original schematic included the output cap of the sc and the input cap of the db. Only one is needed.
5. I haven't seen any info on the astro mess mod (although I would be very interested in some info relating to it) however I own an astro mess, when I cracked it open they have a completely independent gain stage attached to the switch. Caps , resistors and transistor. But it looked identical to what it was bypassing. Same values and transistor. I cannot tell the difference when flipping the switch so I have no clue what the point is. Maybe someone could help me with that one
My build of this fuzz sounds awesome, but its too gated. Notes cut off too early. I used bc550's and a bc557 - would using the correct transistors reduce the gating? - is there a way to mod the circuit to reduce the amout of gating?
ReplyDeletethanks in advance:)
Yes, with the stock components you should get plenty sustain with the intensity knob rolled clockwise.
Deletegot a schematic?
ReplyDeleteA 120k resistor between B and E of Q3 solves the noise issue.....i tried a 100k as well and even more noise reduction but A slight decrease in gain
ReplyDeleteMade this couple days ago, its a really good pedal and I'm enjoying playing with it a lot.
ReplyDeleteIt's super loud though, I only have the volume up around a quarter up. Can any one tell me if theirs is like this or something I can change?
Thanks
That's awesome! I enjoy it too. Try putting a resistor between Vol 3 and Ground (you can even put it directly in the pot legs). I'm not sure which resistor value would give you 3/4 of the volume (I think something between 25 and 100k), so happy trial and error :)
DeleteCool, thanks for the reply and tip. I'll try that tonight and see if it makes a difference, I love it but it would be nice to turn it up even more without destroying my ears!
DeleteSuch a great spluttery fuzz when you play with the volume of the gutiar.