Updated 5th Jan 2014 - ground link added to avoid 2 ground connections to board. LED current limiting resistor also added to make use of available space provided by the additional column.
Saturday, 24 March 2012
ZVex Box of Rock - Complete
I've already posted the dirt side vero so I thought I'd redo it for the complete one with SHO. This ended up pretty compact so will easily fit in a 1590B.
Updated 5th Jan 2014 - ground link added to avoid 2 ground connections to board. LED current limiting resistor also added to make use of available space provided by the additional column.
Updated 5th Jan 2014 - ground link added to avoid 2 ground connections to board. LED current limiting resistor also added to make use of available space provided by the additional column.
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Bit confused with the zener diode, there are a lot of different 9v1 zeners available, all different wattage ect..can anyone give me info on the exact type I need, thanks
ReplyDeleteJust use a 1N5239
DeleteThanks
Deletenone of these on tayda...anything else work?
Deletehttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n4739a-1n4739-zener-diode-9-1v-1w.html
DeleteDoes the Zener go from gate to ground or from the gate to source on the bs170's? I see in schematics that it goes g to s.
DeleteEarly versions of the schematic show the diode going between gate and source. When ZVex released the Inventobox, they posted a schematic PDF of the Super Hard On on their web site which showed the diode going to ground and so Zack either corrected what had previously been an error in the third party schematics, or he had changed the design since then.
DeleteI've tried both and can't tell any difference in the sound, so I just stick to the latest ZVex published version.
Thanks for Zener info. I will assume that D3 was also changed from my old schematic.
DeleteHi, i've just built this one and it works, but i had to change the routing of the tone pot in this way 2, 1, 3 (and not 2, 3, 1 as in the diagram) to have it working in the regular way.
ReplyDeleteI have also a big "bump" when I switch on the SHO, i tried to put a 10M resistor between the input and the output of the SHO but it doesn't work (and I'm not sure if it's the right way to resolve this annoying pop), maybe it's the LED? Maybe a faulty switch? I don't know.
Thanks for your work!
ago
Thanks for verifying, I'll alter the Tone pot. If you're getting popping from the SHO, add a 1M resistor between the SHO input wire and ground. If you can't fit it on the board, you could solder this directly onto the switch.
DeleteThe 1N5817 polarity protection diode is a bit hard to find for me. Can I use the typical 1n4007 or does it really matter? For PS why do they use weird diodes for polarity protection?
ReplyDeleteTo be honest most of the time I omit them completely but I will put them in if they were in the original pedal, if it won't mean having to add any additional columns, and it's in series with the supply. This is because the diode drops the voltage slightly and so to make it as authentic as possible to the original you'd want to recreate the same voltage drop. If the protection diode is parallel and so going from 9V to ground, then I usually omit it entirely because I don't like including something which could blow up under reverse polarity.
DeleteThe 1N400* is a suitable replacement if you don't have the 1N5817. The 1N5817 is used a lot for this because it's a schottky and so there is less of a voltage drop when using it in series. The 1N4001 could drop the voltage by 0.7V, the 1N5817 might only drop it by 0.45V
Hello Iv,
ReplyDeleteI am a beginner and want to know how to connect two 3PDT switch. The output of the first (dirty side) should be directed to the input of the second (sho stage)? You have a schematic? Thanks
Yes, this shows the switch connections
Deletehttp://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/Layouts/Schematics/BoxOfRock.png
Thanks
DeleteSorry for dumb question, but I'm newbee at this stuff, so what power resistors i should buy? 1/4w, 1W or different? Thanks :)
ReplyDeleteBasic 1/4W will suffice. Tayda has nice selection:
Deletehttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/test-group-3.html
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/1-4w-carbon-film-resistors/test-group-2.html
Anything higher is overkill for effect designs.
+m
Hey I'm trying to build this one and the SHO side works fine but the dirt side doesn't. I used all the correct parts, components, checked every single connection so many times. I get a very distinct signal when the circuit is on. I need to turn the volume and gain all the way up to hear just a tiny bit. I've gone through the circuit many times and it's perfect. I've always been able to troubleshoot a circuit and I've used all methods I know but nothing seems to work.
ReplyDeleteAny ideas?
The mosfets are susceptible to static damage, have you socketed them so you can try others?
DeleteI am having this same problem. I have tried multiple different mosfets to no avail. Any ideas?
Deletehej
Deletethere's a error for the D1 diode at the bottomleft. its bottom leg should be wired 4 lines upper, to be connected to the transisor's bottom leg.
D1 connects transistor's G & S ?
DeleteIn a 1590B.... without battery you mean? :) Just finished this vero, works GREAT. Thank you once again Mark!
ReplyDeleteEasy even with a battery :o) Mount the board solder side up and it's no problem, in fact you'd get bigger than this, someone mounted my OD820 layout in a 1590B and that has a dual pot too!
ReplyDeleteNice point. So, i'll bend the electrolytic caps and try. Thanks again :) Next step: Distortus Maximus :)
ReplyDeleteBy the way, this is my BOR:
ReplyDeletehttp://guitarrasimportacion.foroactivo.com/t429-capinc-effects-5-pain-in-the-ass-zvex-box-of-rock
Hope you like it.
Very nice job
Deletehello,
ReplyDeletei want to know how to connect two 3PDT switch. of course, there was already someone who had already asked the same question. but i cannot read the schematic. is there another way to explain it to me.
thanks!
Basically.. You could use offboard wiring guide found here:
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
But.
You'll just take the wire from output lug (to out jack) and use it as input for the second switch. Wire the second switch like the first, but now take the output to out jack. Simple as that.
+m
hi mirosol,
Deletethanks. i´ll give it a try.
+ocd
Thanks Miro. We have been asked this a few times now so I've added a Dual Effect example to the Offboard Wiring post.
Deletehey iviark,
Deletethat was a great. this will help me for sure.
thanks to you guys!
I am getting an oscillation when I have both on and the boost maxed and tone up. Any suggestions.
ReplyDeleteJust got this working and I love it!! Thanks so much for all the great work!
ReplyDeleteMine has a bit to much high end, can I increase bass somehow?
ReplyDeletePeople usually complain that the pedal has too much bass, not too little, so that suggests something could be wrong in the build.
DeleteThe tone stack is built around the Tone pot (obviously) and the 82K/100n and 47K/22n connecting to Tone 1 and 3. If you want to experiment with the frequency response before hand to see what youcan expect from swapping out those components I can recommend the Tone Stack Calculator from here.
The type used in the Box of Rock is a Big Muff tone stack, so just choose that, fill in the values and see what you can come up with.
This is the schematic of the tone stack so you can relate it to the software:
Deletehttp://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/BoxofRocktonestack.png
Hi Alison,
DeleteI can comfirm that this is one of the most bassy effects that I've ever tried, that's just one of the many features that makes this pedal so special.
Maybe you should check your build and component values as is not normal to get a trebly BOR.
BR
Hi, I built the dirt side layout and not the full BOR! Could the 10n to tone 3 be increased for more bass? I'm new to this so excuse my ignorance.
ReplyDeleteHi IvLark can you tell me if is correct?
ReplyDeletehttp://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/bofrockfinal.jpg/
Thanks in advance and best regards
Looks mostly ok to me, but you'll need to ground lug 2 of the SHO Gain pot, and don't forget to also ground to top row as noted above the SHO Input. Make sure you're getting continuity between every point of ground, both board and offboard.
Deleteno way, doesn't work, i check everiting but it doesn't work. i think that some fet is bad. whitout the 3pdt swicht i have to use the out of volume pot and connect togheter with the SHO input, than the SHO output to output jack, is correct?
ReplyDeletethank you very much!
I found 2 error in my wiring work, is it possible to have damaged the fet trying the effect with the 9v battery?
ReplyDeleteFETs are very susceptible to static so it's always possible. That's why I'd always recommend socketing them, and also do your testing of the main board before you solder any switches in. You're just adding another possible point of failure if you add the switch before you know the board works ok, giving you one more thing to check. Just use a small terminal block to make any connections you need to the input and output sockets etc. Like this:
Deletehttp://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/DIY/Mark%20Builds/1012110003_2.jpg
Hi Ivlark, no way in this version but I do the first version updated 6th dcember 2010 and it works, the bass are a little spongie but it sounds good. Its different from the last version?
ReplyDeleteWhen I move the drive pot I experience a dusty noise, and is not due to the pot. Do you know what is the cause of this?
ReplyDeletethanks for your time and best regards!
When moving the Drive and the Boost pots, you're hot-biasing the BS170s mosfets, this is how it works (and sounds).
DeleteThe famoues "Crackle Ok" comes from this issue.
BR
Thanks JaviCAP! So is not a problem, I have use a 10k linear with a 10k resistor bridge (pin 1-3) in order to have a 5k rev "maybe". Could be this the "cracle ok"?
DeleteDon't think is related to the paralel resistor set on the pot. In my Super Hard On i installed a lineal 5k, and in the BOR used the 5krev. In both pedals, the "crackle" is the same.
DeleteThese are the words of the own Zachary:
"The BOR uses my Super Hard-On circuit as part of it's design. The gain controls on that pedal adjust both the bias and negative feedback of a single-Mosfet gain stage when the knobs are turned, resulting in a "rushing" sound as the DC is reset."
So, it's working the way it's supposed too. Don't worry and enjoy this amazing effect :)
BR
Thanks JaviCAP! Very kind
DeleteHello Mark,
ReplyDeleteI'm sorry if I rewrite. I built the circuit using your layout.
This wiring diagram
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T8OdqPmP_2Q/UG3WZyt28aI/AAAAAAAAC5U/lTz0RyZXAG8/s1600/!Offboard+wiring+-+dual.png
can be applied to bor or you would be possible to draw the layout of the connection of the 3PDT switch. I'm still a beginner I need more help. From the diagram I can not so intuitive.
thanks
You have to think of this circuit is as if it were split in two, a Box of Rock dirt side followed by a Super Hard On.
DeleteThe main input on the layout is the input to the BOR, the output of the BOR is the Volume 3 wire, which goes to the volume pot, and then the Volume 2 wire in the final BOR output which returns to the switch.
So the offboard layout would be this:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/DIY/BOROffboardwiring-dual.png
Oh and you can obviously forget about the daisy chained supply wires shown in the layout diagram
DeleteThanks now it's clear and simply
ReplyDeleteIt is possible to run the BOR at 12v or more instead of 9v?
ReplyDeleteNo problem there. Just make sure your electrolytics are at least 16V.
Delete+m
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThanks mirosol. just a question, When I use the power supply I hear a loud howling sound in the background. from what may be caused. No problem when I use 9v battery
DeleteDid you measure your supply? I have a feeling it may not be working correctly with that kind of behaviour. I've burned a few adapters before i switched to batteries for testing :)
Delete+m
Yes, the voltage is correct, I also tried with other power supplies and the hiss is always present. may be some bad fets? But with the 9v battery sounds great
Deletethanks
If it works with a battery, then it has to be with power source (adapter), dc jack or the power filtering.
DeleteIs the filter cap ok? Battery is stable source, while wall wart can have lots or ripple from ac. You could try different values for it too. 47µ or 220µ would be good thing to try.
+m
I'll back you pardon for my ignorance, the filter cap is an electrolitic between the 9v+ and ground?
Deletethanks
Yes. The 100µF on board is the filter cap. That in reverse could also cause your symptoms.
Delete+m
Yes, it was the filter cap, I experience a very little noise again but it could be also the power transformer
Deletethanks again mirosol
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi guys!
ReplyDeleteJust an information...does the boost work when the OD is off ?
Thanks a lot!
Yes, you can engage it whenever you want, doesn't matter if the dirt side is on or not.
DeleteBest regards.
Hi all,
ReplyDeleteDoes anyone know how to implement a subs switch on this ala Distortron??? Any info would be extremely helpful. Thanks!!
Maybe this? http://www.tdpri.com/forum/burnt-fingers-diy-effects/269313-recommend-me-overdrive-distortion-pedal-build-2.html
DeleteI noticed some mistakes in vero schema: D1 and D2 must be between Gate and Source of Q1 and Q4 (not Ground), and also missing 47k between SHO out and ground. Is my opinion right?
ReplyDeleteIn the earlier versions of the BOR the zener did go between gate and source, but Vex changed this at some point to take the zener directly to ground, as you can see in his schematic for the SHO in the Inventobox information sheet here:
Deletehttp://www.zvex.com/module_instructions.pdf
Bear in mind that the zener is just used to protect the mosfet from static electricity and so it's included as a protection device rather than something that will fundamentally change the tone.
And I often omit pulldown resistors on the output, but you could certainly add the 47K if you're getting any popping on the SHO side. If you're not then there's no reason to add it.
And what about two 1M resistors at SHO side? Here http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.sk/2013/02/zvex-super-hard-on-compact-layout.html and also in pdf of inventobox are used two 10M. Thanks for answer.
DeleteYes the SHO is always 10M's in the single effect, but definitely 1M's in the BOR. It just affects the input impedance, so using 1M's it may sound slightly darker.
Deletethanks. I understand it now.
ReplyDeleteI just finished my BOR build and it sounds amazing! Check it out: http://www.jurimusic.com/2013/03/zvex-box-of-rock-clone.html
ReplyDeleteThanks for the layout!
Excellent looking build, and thanks for sharing the pics!
DeleteToday I built this box of rock. Is great tone ACDC
ReplyDeleteThanks Iviark
My BOR sounds amazing without noise/hum problems normally, but I have terrible noise (like coming old dirty pots) from it only when I change position of both GAIN pots. What can be problem? Maybe grounding? See here my grounding http://oi49.tinypic.com/r1ei6r.jpg (input and output jack ground are connected via enclosure). Thanks
ReplyDeleteThat's what you would expect to happen because there is DC on the pot. That's why it says Crackle OK on a Super Hard On.
DeleteMark, could you do a layout for the "crackle not okay"? I've made lots of them from some other layout and I just don't like it. I like the way you do it. I prefer that one to a normal SHO because of the crackle feature.
DeleteBuilt this, but only had 3 BS170. Can the SHO be replaced by a 2n7000 with some tweaking of resistors? The BOR side is working perfect and sounds somewhat similar to the catalinbread DLS.
ReplyDeleteHere's my Box of Rock -video: http://youtu.be/8PA5DoGEab8 The effect works very well with low gain settings.. I just love it!
ReplyDeleteVery nice job!
DeleteJuri
ReplyDeleteLet me compliment you on the build and the demo. Especially like the jewel led cover - nice touch. May I ask where you got that? Nice playing and it was cool to hear the lower gain sound. I've been putting off building this one because I always just hear the high gain demos and I'm not crazy about the sound with the gain maxed out. I think it sounded great on your demo with the gain only a little way up.
This may be my long weekend build...
Thanks tinkercreak! :) I bought the jewel light from ebay and then modded a 5mm LED inside it.. I made a small tutorial about it on my blog, check it out: http://www.jurimusic.com/2013/05/diy-tips-tricks-how-to-use-jewel-light.html
DeleteCool! I thought that it might be a real amp jewel light. Great idea - I will definitely throw that into a build or two. Appreciate the tutorial link.
DeleteGot ready to build mine and realized I was missing the 2n caps. Pisser. Got 'em ordered though - next weekend's build.....
got mine completed last night. it sounds gret!
ReplyDeletehttp://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/BoxofRock/BOR-01.jpg
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/BoxofRock/BOR-02.jpg
Nice job John, as always!
DeleteG
man, i wish anything i made looked that good :/
DeleteMan, I know this post is from two years ago but would it be at all possible to get a shot of this with the circuit lifted up so I can see the connections?
Deletehi, little question ...
ReplyDeleteif i got a 10k lin and i want it to be rev 5klog than i need to connect lug 1 and 3 with a 10k resistor right? so in these project u say to connect both lug 2 and 3to ground.... it will be o.k to connect onley lug 3?
ive got it working!!!
ReplyDeletethanks a lot mark for the great layouts.
anybody else got the dirt side darky and with less volume then the clean channel?
i replaced the 47k resistor with a jumper and got more volume and less darky
any one know if it a common problem?
or any way to get more volume?
ReplyDeletethe BOR has TONS of output. if you need more volume then something is wrong with your build.
Deletethis is what im trying to figure ...
ReplyDeletei got:
Q1- s=0 g=2.25 d=4.44
Q2-s=0.12 g=2.29 d=4.9
Q3- d=4.2 g=2.34 s=0.22
is that correct?
Hi Everyone,
ReplyDeleteI had a couple questions. Probably pretty elementary questions since I'm still pretty green. I made sure to read every comment before I asked anything (as I don't want to waste anyones time. You guys had layouts to VERIFY!)
I made the SHO, and I love it. I wanted to tackle the BOR. I've checked all the offboarding wiring diagrams, which have been super helpful. One was posted in this section that had it broken down for the BOR. It has the dirt side first and then the boost? But the actual pedal is Boost then Dirt? Is that just something I switch after I build it, or is it set up that way because it was suggested to be in the box solder side up and in a 1590B, which would switch it and put boost first?
As far as seeing this build as 2 separate fx, this is probably very obvious but I want to make sure I am seeing it correctly. Everything that doesn't say SHO in front of it, is going to be the dirt side right? I also read that the daisy chained power should be ignored when built this way, does that also apply to the ground. There are 2 ground wires coming off the layout, one for SHO & one for dirt? Do I run a both to the DC (-) power jack?
If anyone can offer even a little insight, it would be greatly appreciated! My apologies for the long windedness
Up the Punxxx!
I thought it was dirt then boost, and that is certainly the way it was shown in the schematic I did it from. It would be easy enough to swap the order anyway if you wanted to try both ways, by just moving the main input and output wires and a link on the switch. And yes, anything that doesn't say SHO in front of it relates to the Dirt side.
DeleteThis can't be thought of as 2 separate effects as far as the power is concerned, because both the Dirt and Boost side are powered by the same rail so you only have to make one connection. I could have made the layout one column wider and included a link to avoid the 2 ground connections, but it's easy enough to deal with, all grounds are connected together in the pedal, so you can take 2 wires from the board to the same ground point offboard, or alternatively just daisy chain from one to the next and then on to the offboard.
Ivlark,
DeleteThanks so much for getting back to me! I really really appreciate it. This is a super rad site you got going on here, and is totally helpfully. Thanks for addressing my questions. I am really pumped to get this build started.
As far as the the order of the pedal, you are totally right, I was looking at it completely backwards. Thanks for shedding some light on that, and my grounding & power questions. I will keep you guys updated and hopefully have some cool pictures and a success story to share soon! In reality though, I will have probably be back here soon asking some obvious question ;)
xoxoxo,
upthepunxxx!
Oh yea, if anyone is located in the Los Angeles area and has a need to nerd out on DIY pedal building I'm your man!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi mark and everyone else
ReplyDeleteI seem to have a problem that i cant get around. It looks like the guy Eyal has the same problem.
the sho side works perfect and sound like it supposed to (iv bulit it a couple of times) but the bor side something is wrong. I dont get any volume until the pot is allmost at max and the gain pot works similar. Iv measuerd q1 and when the gain pot is at min it reads 1.4v and when at max it reads 0.0v this seem backwards to me or???? iv tryed diffrent bs170 but it dosent matter same problem. im sure that its wired correct and the the signal goes throug the dirt side cause i get a the sound and the tone works but it has no volum and gain. iv cheked for solder bridgers and there are none. Any ideas????
Post and front and back board pic and we can give it a once over to see if we can spot anything. An extra pair(s) of eyes can always help
DeleteThanks mark
Deletehere the links for the pics, what about that q1 has 0.0v at max and 1.4v at min is that strange?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37158779/bild%20(1).JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37158779/bild%20(2).JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37158779/bild.JPG
How do you guys know when to use metal film resistors vs carbon film? Or do you just generally always use metal film?
ReplyDeleteHi,
DeleteIt doesn't matter which you use, they both do the exact same thing. Metal films are usually more precise than carbon films, but honestly I'd say it makes very little difference either way. Use what you have/is cheapest.
Cheers
Dave
Thanks Dave! That makes a lot of sense. I mean you hear people say that carbon film are more noisy and things like that, but I'm not really sure what that even means? Especially in like an overdrive or distortion circuit. But then I see pictures of the insides of mass produced pedals and you see some metal film and some carbon. I was just curious if there was some other rhyme or reason to it? I'm guessing when you need a resistor to be spot on they go with metal film and if not they go with the cheapest?
DeleteI'm gonna stick with your advice though, until instructed to do so otherwise.
Thanks again!
well hello comrades!
ReplyDeleteSo quick question (disclaimer: maybe not that quick). I built the BOR last night, and wanted to breadboard before I boxed it up. I mean I soldered it to vero, just wanted to run my guitar through it via my breadboard before I went too far, and started soldering switches and such.
I built one of the beavis breadboard breakout box, which is pretty cool by the way. That guy or guys kicks ass actually! I digress, my apologies. So yea, I wanted to test it first. But you know since the volume 2 lug is the output which goes to the sho input on the 2nd footswitch, I sorta got confused? Like do I have to check the SHO side by itself and then check the dirt side by itself? Or do you just run the volume 2 output lug back into the SHO input and then use SHO output as the main output? And use the regular input as just that, an input? Sorry, my guess is that this is a pretty self explanatory, green/newbie question and that I should have figured it out myself, but I'm not gonna lie I got a little stumped, and thought that maybe my brothers in solder could help shed some light?
I really hope all the above makes sense. Well thanks in advance for the help, or even reading to this point :)
I'm SUPER STOKED to get this in a box!
Upthepunxxx comrades!
It depends on what you want. If you want both effects to be switched on and off separately (as the original pedal does), you would wire the distortion input and output (from volume 2) to the 1st footswitch and SHO input and output to the second one. It is of course possible to run this as "single package" by wiring distortion output to SHO input and using SHO output as the main output. Personally I wouldn't do that because using only one "side" of the pedal is big part of its versatility.
DeleteIf you're confused with offboard wiring, check out this great tutorial with dual effects example: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
Thank you for responding I really appreciate it. I think I have my head wrapped around the whole distortion output (vol 2 lug) into the SHO input and out the SHO output, and the whole multi effect offboard wiring. I was just confused if I was doing something wrong when trying to test it through a breadboard before I boxed it up. When I run my guitar into the SHO input and use the SHO output to my amp via my breadboard the SHO side works perfectly. It is when I try to run the the whole effect as a "single package" that I don't get any signal. I was just doing this to make sure the whole circuit was working. I ran the distortion ouput into the SHO input and the SHO output to my amp but I got nothing. Then I tried running my guitar into the distorition input and the dist. output (vol 2 lug) into my amp. No Luck. So I was assuming either I couldn't test it that way, or the dist. side isn't working. However after reading your response it seems more likely that my dist. side of my board isn't working. Its probably staring me right in the face, but I checked orientations, went through with the layout and a pencil and checked each solder point, component, break, & jumper. I'm a bit defeated and stating to loose faith in my ability to not only complete a build but basically solder by numbers. Its a sad day at the Los Angeles upthepunxx crusty squat...
DeleteAny and all help would be greatly appreciated. Not really sure how but any and all would be awesome. Uplifting quotes, positive mantras, puppy pictures, anything...
Are all the grounds connected? There are two places in the board and a couple more in the pots that should be going to ground. Also, have you checked the MOSFET voltages? I had similar problems with my build (SHO was fine but distortion didn't work) and it turned out that I had fried one of the FETs. I bought a new transistor and a socket for it so it wouldn't get fried while soldering. After the replacement it worked perfectly.
DeleteHey there much thanks for responding!
DeleteYea all my grounds are connected, both from the board, and all the ones from the pots. I socketed all my transistors so checking them shouldn't be a problem. I kinda get confused when checking those things, so my early tests could prove to be wrong. Also say the FETs are fried, do you have any tips in regards to making sure that doesn't happen? Like as far as handling, storing, any of that? I know you need to keep it away from other components, but Im not exactly sure how you do that when you are trying to insert them into their respective sockets in the circuit?
By frying fets I meant that I didn't use sockets at first and soldered the fets directly to the board. That way the heat from soldering iron may "fry" the hell out of those fets.
DeleteChecking the voltages is pretty simple: just grab your multimeter (assuming you have one) and measure the voltage between ground and each of the fet pins. Then write the results here :)
oh ok I thought you meant frying the like from ESD. Aren't MOSFETs really susceptible to static electricity? I always socket transistors, diodes and some caps. Mainly cause I'm not the best at soldering, and usually mess up the orientation a couple times.
ReplyDeleteInorder to post the results of the voltage check, I'm assuming I get the reading while the transistors are in the circuit? Is that what you mean by measuring between the ground and each pin? Thanks so so much for responding and helping out with my last couple posts!
Yes, the transistors should be in the circuit while measuring voltages.
Deletesweet! Here there are:
DeleteQ1
D = 8.86V
G = 0
S =0
Q2
D = 4.67V
G = 2.452V
S = 146.6mV
Q3
S = 260.3mV
G = 2.432V
D = 4.88V
Q4
S = 1.0mV
G = 2.188V
D = 4.37V
I believe I did that right? Just measured each pin from the ground with my multimeter set on VDC
Lemme know what you think. And thank you thank you so much for the help!!
Upthepunxxx!
As far as my knowledge goes all all the other FET:s seem to have somewhat correct voltages except for Q1. If you have spare BS170s, try changing Q1 to new one. Also re-check all the connections surrounding it.
Deleteok cool, I will give that a shot. Before I tested the voltages, I put each BS170 in a separate SHO circuit to make sure each worked. I then put them in the BOR, and measured the voltages. So theoretically they should be good, right? Is it possible that I have something wired wrong either in the circuit or the way I have it hooked up to my breadboard that somehow fucks up Q1 when I plug it into the circuit? I am tempted to just try and box it up with the 2 switches and all. Mainly cause I think it has something to do with the way I am testing it through my breadboard. IDK, this rough!
DeleteIf that's the case then it is very possible that there's something else wrong with the circuit. With my limited electronic skills it's very hard to say where the fault could be. All I can advise you to do is re-check the circuit once more. A photo of your build could be also helpful :)
DeleteHere are some pics of my circuit. thank you again for checking these out. This scene that you guys got going on here is super fuckin' rad! In the meantime I may just start over, unless you see something extremely obvious right away (which, to be honest, I'm really hoping isthe case)
Delete[URL=http://s1010.photobucket.com/user/upthepunxxx13/media/Circuits/photo4_zps3c70e932.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1010.photobucket.com/albums/af228/upthepunxxx13/Circuits/photo4_zps3c70e932.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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Upthepunxxx!
Thanks for the great pics! Are those yellow capacitors Tantalums? If yes, are they polarized ones? If they are, are you aware that just like electrolytic caps they work only if installed the right way? If you don't know which way they should be put in, I would recommend you to change them to regular non-polarized caps.
DeleteThat's all I found out now at 7am (I'm from Finland) :D I'll get back to these pictures later.
Checking Q1's gate on the schematic I would say it should measure something about 4-4.5V, so I think there is a problem. Also seeing the back of your board I would say there might be shorts. I would suggest to "knife the gaps" - actually always as a thumb of rule.
DeleteChecked again, that ~9V is not healthy already on the drain either on Q1. It is an SHO stage, just like the last one with Q4, so you should get approximately the same readings, and with the voltage divider on the gate it should always be about half of the drain voltage. So I'd definitely check for shorts there.
DeleteHowever the drain voltage depends on the gain pot setting too, since that biases the whole stage, so the 8.86V might indeed be right on the drain, but the gate definitely should be about half of it. Sorry, just thinking out loud... ;)
DeleteThanks for checking out the pics and getting back to me guys, thats super cool! Ville Sirkla from Finland, the yellow caps are actually just regular multilayer ceramic caps, non-polarized. However, they do look alot like tantalums in that pic. Lemme know if you can catch anything else. I really appreciate you helping me out!
DeleteCsaba Dudas- Please, I encourage you to think out loud, no need to apologize!
I was looking for solder bridges and did a quick pass with my xacto to clean up the gaps. I went around with my DMM to make sure nothing was connected that was suppose to. I re-heated a couple solder joints that looked suspect. However I am going to go back through and double check around Q1.
So basically my Q1 should read like my Q4, correct? since they are both SHO stages? When I was taking all the readings I had all the pots dimed, including the sho gain. So would that mean that 8.86 on the drain is indeed too hot? What could be causing the malfunction at Q1? If it turns out there are are no bridges or anything, ya know? Or is that what would cause that?
Thanks so much guys! You guys are my heros for sure!!
Upthepunxxx!
Los Angeles, CA
I think it should read similar with the same pot setting. Unfortunately I don't have the BOR, but I have an SHO stage on my breadboard (was playing around with that). There I don't have a gain pot on the source, it is connected directly to ground. This way I have about 2.6V on the drain and 1.3V on the gate. Anyhow you should have definitely about half of the drain voltage on the gat, so there is a problem somewhere in your build. I'll check your pics again, maybe I can see something...
DeleteThe component side seems to be ok, at least the first stage. On the back I marked a few spots that look suspicious, check those. For the moment I can't see anything else...
Deletehttp://members.upc.hu/dudas.csaba5/possible_shorts.jpg
that is so super helpful! Thanks so much, I am going to check those spots out as soon as I get off work! Thanks so much, and let me know if anything else catches your attention :)
DeleteNo luck after I went through and knifed the gaps...Might need to step away for a bit. I think I'm gonna give the Lovepedal Eternity Burst a shot, then come back to this guy, and completely start over. I'm guessing at this point it is something I soldered wrong in the circuit. Whether that is a cold join that I keep missing some how, not really sure. Just starting over seems to be the only fix at this point :(
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteDon't give it up yet, I still have a few ideas for you after thinking about it a bit more. From what your voltage readings are and what we think they should be here are the possible problems (imo):
Delete1) There is a cold solder joint on the 1M resistor that connects the drain to gate or this resistor is burnt. Measure the resistor and resolder it.
2) The 1M resistor connecting the gate to ground is bad and gives a short. Measure it.
3) The Zener diode connecting the gate to source is bad and conduccting in both directions. Measure it.
4) There is a short either between the gate and the ground or the gate and the source. Check carefully for solder bridges (I know you already knifed the gaps, but even a tiny, microscopic piece of conducting material is enough)
5) The gate has a cold solder joint. Check it and reflow the solder. If you remove the transistor you can even check with your DMM if the solder or even better the trace and the upper part of the socket really conduct.
6) You have a cold solder joint somewhere on the gain pot, though in this case the gate voltage should be ok, so this is not likely.
If you already tried all these and there is still no luck... well... then I'm out of ideas too.
Dude you are the coolest! This is great stuff, I really really appreciate you taking the time. I'm super pumped to get home and try all these fixes. I dig the encouragement and all the possible solutions. I will definitely keep you posted!
DeleteJust to make sure, all these possible solutions are in regards to Q1, correct?
DeleteYes, that's correct
DeleteITSSS ALIIIIIIIVE!
DeleteYo man it works. Only thing is is when I turn the tone knob and the sho gain knob up past halfway I get a crazy hi pitch squeal. Is it becuae Im running it into itself in a breadboard and its not boxed up? Meaning its picking up RF or something? Or is there something up with the Tone & sho gain knobs. I haven't soldered the pots to the board yet. I am using terminal strips with my breadboard to test them out.
Radio frequency interference maybe?
DeleteGlad to hear you got it working! Do you know what was the problem?
DeleteAs for the squealing... Are you sure it is not a simple feedback from your amp? The SHO stage has quite some gain. Does this happen with the guitar volume knob turned all the way down too? If it does then it is some kind of oscillation/feedback within your circuit. You could try to increase the two 2n2 caps, that would filter more highs out, but that can then also make your effect sound a little muffled. You could also play with the tone stack, as I see from the schematic (http://revolutiondeux.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/zvex-box-of-rock.html) it has a simple BMP style tone control but again that affects your overall tone. Another thing you might try is to tame the gain of the SHO stage by adding a resistor in series with the SHO Gain3 connection. The value would be something from 100Ohm-1kOhm, you could find a good value with a trimmer and then use that value as a fixed resistor. As for RF, I don't think it is something like that. Of course the metal enclosure shields the effect, so you can expect some of the noise to decrease, but the squealing you describe is not that kind of noise I think.
Thanks for getting back to me you are a legend! Seriously. So I got this message late last night and immediately popped out of bed to see if it was indeed just feedback or something going on in the circuit. What I found from my brief experiments, was that if the guitar had the volume up all the way, the sho gain and the dirt gain both made the high pitch feedback/frequency sound when their pots were turned up about 3/4 of the way. However, when I turn the guitar volume off, then only the dirt gain makes that sound. I uploaded a video of it to vimeo. I should have explained what I was doing in the video but it was kind of late, and I mainly just wanted you to hear the noise. I can make a better one tomorrow, if need be. Check it out and let me know if that sounds familiar in the sense that it is something in my circuit or more to do with the fact that it is an open circuit on my breadboard right in front of the monitors its being pumped through...? Thank you soo soo much! I love this stuff! UPTHEPUNXX!
DeleteLink to video:
https://vimeo.com/80101681
Video will be up in about a 1/2 hour. Vimeo is taking a while to convert it.
Alright, this is definitely not the usual feedback sound from a cranked amp + high gain pedal. You seem to be right, it sounds like some RF interference. Checked the schematic again and I see that the usual RF filter cap is missing from the beginnig. You can try to add a 100-200pF or maybe even 470pF cap from input to ground as an RF filter to see if it helps, or actually you can put it anywhere from the signal to ground until it is before the first SHO stage. A good place seems to be right after the input, from the same row as the 100nF input cap. Also if it is RF interference, then a metal encolsure will probably shield a good part of it but still you can try the RF filter cap. Let me know how it goes ;)
DeleteA picture tells more than a dozen words ;)
Deletehttp://tinypic.com/r/t64fgm/5
Quick wiring question, when following the off board wiring diagram and wiring the switch, its cool to use like un-shileded wire. I use the pre bond 24 gauge from small bear. Its cool to just take the insulation of that, and use the inside as a jumper right?
DeleteI'm not really sure if I understand your question, but you can use both shielded or unshielded wires. I use unshielded ones inside the boxes because I think the box shields the electronics anyway and it is easier for me to work with. But you could use shielded wires as well, in that case the core as the "hot" and the shield as ground.
DeleteHey dude! I'd say happy thanksgiving, but I don't think you live in the states? Anyways, quick question. I've been reading Brian Wamplers indyguitarists books, and in the Advanced DIY Effects Pedal book, he writes about all circuits having a power supply filtering section. He said that if you don't see it on a schematic that's because it is assumed that you already know it is there. So basically if you don't see one always add it. It is a basic 1n4001 diode a 47uf cap and a .1uf cap inserted between 9v and ground. What I am getting at is that a didn't see it on the above layout (which is know is a layout and not a schematic) for, the RAT layout, the SHO layout, and the Eternity layout. Am I totally dropping the ball by not adding it? Is this something everyone adds to their layouts, and is this the reason why my builds make so much noise when I test them on my breadboard? If that is the case, then everyone reading this is probably laughing there asses off. I have literally been taking these layouts at face value and building exactly as it shows....
DeleteWell, hopefully you can shed some light on the subject, since you have basically turned into my pedal guru :)
xoxox,
upthepunxxx!
Hey! You are talking about two things: 1) the power filtering section and 2) reverse polarity protection.
DeleteThe power filtering section is basically just a large enough cap from the 9V rail to the ground acting as a lowpass filter. This filters the high frequency noise that might come from non-filtered power supplies. Dependig on what power supply you are usig you might or might not need it. I think on almost all layouts here this section is in there. The cap can be actually anything from 47u to whatever. Usually Mark and miro use a 100u cap. Here you see it near the lower right corner. There is only one 100u cap, so it's easy to find it, but you can always follow the 9V rail back to see where it is.
The polarity protection is done here with the D3 (1n5817) diode. It is actually a simple higher power Schottky diode in series with the 9V. In one direction it conducts, in the other one it doesn't. It's that simple. Of course there is a little voltage drop (the opening voltage of the diode), but that's why a Schottky is used, those have lower forward voltage drops of about 0.2V. You could also use a diode in paralel, between 9V and gnd. This would short out the power connection if connected reversed. It would have the advantage of not having any voltage drops, but... But it has a disadvantage that when it starts working (the power is connected wrong), then it heats up and can also blow possibly bringing a part of the circuit with itself. You definitely don't want that. Mark and miro either use the in-series diode solution or completely ommit the polarity protection diode (however you are always free to add it yourself). On some older layouts you might find the paralel diode solution.
So it's up to you, you can ommit these parts if you want to (for the polarity protection you would need a jumper then), but only do that if you are 100% sure that you will not connect your power supply wrong and it is well filtered.
Yes, I think that with only a few exceptions where it wasn't on the original, we always include power supply filtering. In some fuzz pedals too much filtering can change the characteristic of the fuzz and so if the original didn't have one, we don't always include one. Some Devi pedals are examples this, if you read some of the comments you'll find cases where people thought it just didn't sound right, but it was spot on when they snipped out the filter cap.
DeleteReverse polarity protection is different though. I will always include it if the protection is in series with the supply like in this pedal (as Csaba mentioned, D3), but if the original had parallel protection (diode anode to 9V, cathode to ground) then I always omit it now. There are a few pedals (particularly early layouts I did) where I did include the parallel protection diode but that is rare on here. The reason being that its a stupid way to protect the circuit when it's done badly like most pedal manufacturers do. When you use parallel protection there should always be a fuse in series with the supply, because if not, under reverse polarity the diode will basically explode and in some cases take part of the board and/or other components with it. So if you ever do want to add this type of protection I'd strongly suggest getting hold of some small inline fuses.
Series diodes are great because they simply won't pass current under reverse polarity and so nothing can get damaged or blow, but they also reduce the supply voltage by the forward voltage drop of the diode which could affect the headroom in the effect, and so I don't include it unless it was also in the original.
Man this place is RAD! Thanks so much for shedding some light on that. Every time you guys respond to me this whole process starts to get a little bit clearer. Thank you so so much, both of you guys, for getting back to me so quickly and explaining things in a way that even make sense to me! Seriously this place is FUCKIN RAD!!!
Deletexoxoxo,
upthepunxxx!
quick question, homies. Its alright to use my regular 24 pre bonded wire from small bear as jumpers on the board, right? It doesn't matter that it is stranded and tinned. Or if it was solid copper for that matter right? 0 ohms is 0 ohms. Or should I not be using that stuff as jumpers
DeleteUse anything you like. I used resistor and cap cuts-offs for ages but ended up getting a pack of these:
Deletehttp://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/0-5mm-Dwl-Wire-Link-Pack-of-1000-62-0470
They're basically the same thickness as the resistor cut offs but with plenty of length.
Hello, It is the first time I'm gona make a veroboard effect and I have a small question: are the diodes on the picture orientated randomly?
ReplyDeleteno.
DeleteHi. This is my first ! And guess, i've a problem. I checked my board, components, and i don't find any mistake. Guitar signal is ok when 3PDT are not activated (hopefully !). But, when I activate Boost or OD, i've got a noisy regular TOC... TOC... TOC... and no guitar signal/sound.
ReplyDeleteI checked voltage of BS170 and it seems ok : > 0 when no 3PDT activated, 0 when one of 3PDT activated.
I would like to know how to process in testing in order to find the mistake or the bad component ?
Thanks in advance
to add information on my build, i'had done a mistake in plugging BS170 and so i had to reverse the 4 components. By the way, i don't use socket for this components. As i can read, they may have fried (soldering, unsoldering, soldering) ? how to know if they are still working ?
ReplyDeleteand for others fragile components, how to know their status ?
Sorry, i'm a very beginner.
In fact, built OK! I had 2 bad contacts on each footswitch . good exercise And Nice Sound, big & fat Sound :-)
ReplyDeleteGood stuff! Glad to hear it turned out well!
Deletebuilt this up today, dirt side works well ( a bit of hum when drive and volume are dimed, dunno if its to be expected) the sho side works in that it boosts the signal but the hum is noticeably louder. when using the boost alone it seems to suck the tone, makes it flat and lifeless, not as bright as bypass signal. doesn`t suck the tone when boosting the dirt side but the hum is a fair bit louder when both are engaged. any ideas guys.
ReplyDeletebuilt another one and its the same, now going for the sho and dirt side on seperate boards. comparing the layouts i noticed the box of rock boost section has a 1m resistor between drain & gate while on the sho layout its 10m, what difference if any does tis make?
DeleteIt sets the input impedance. And yes I noticed the difference when I was doing the layout but it certainly shouldn't cause any problems, you'd probably just find that the 10M version was slightly brighter than the 1M version.
DeleteThis is the scheme I did it from.
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DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI've been struggling for a while now to get rid of the pop in the SHO. Got a pop when switching SHO on. I tried 1M pull-down resistor at circuit input and output, even a 10M resistor, and it is still popping. I tried amz's LED popping method but all with no solution. Only more noise in my build :(
Is there any way to get rid of this annoying pop?
Sometimes you just get a switch that causes popping, or you may have a suspect capacitor in there somewhere. So those are really the only other two options left to try.
DeleteFor what it's worth, I'm one of those fools that actually bought a real Super Hard On (the one with the pretty flower) and it would pop once or twice when you first use it then go away for a while
ReplyDeleteDoes your problem happen every time you switch it?
Forgot to mansion I tried another switch with the dame result. So that leaves one option left. I'll will try new caps tonight. Thanks Mark.
ReplyDeleteThere is some variation in the pops, Travis, but they won't go away. Thanks for the insight man.
I'll let you know my result..
Oke I tried other caps but still popping. So I decided to build a separate SHO and stuff it in the box with the BOR. Pop is behaving like Travis explained about the original so that's quite alright for me. But when turning the volume knob there is a volume drop at about ten o'clock. Still not as bad as a pop but I want it to be perfect. So I tried a bigger 10u 50v cap and its gone but the pop is back:( It's sometimes hard for things to be perfect. I changed it again for the little 35v cap and live with the odd drop between the crackle.
ReplyDeleteCheers to all.
Hey homies!!! How is everyone doing? Has this happened to anyone else? I finally boxed this circuit up, and everything seems to be working ok. However, when I first go to turn the boost on, the LED doesnt lite up, then I hit it again and it acts as momentary switch and again and again a couple more times, and then it stays on and works fine. Once I get it "warmed up" in the beginning its ok the rest of the time I am playing. It is only initially for the first minute or so that it does this? I checked all my wiring and made sure nothing is shorting out. Its just odd that once I get it going it works fine and I can switch both boost and distortion in and out. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Or maybe this is a normal occurrence?
ReplyDeleteSounds like a faulty switch to me, maybe a sticking contact or a problem with the latching mechanism
DeleteThere is a resistor missing out of the SHO according to schematic.
DeleteJust add a 47k resistor betwen SHO output and ground.
You would normaly get rid of the Pop when switching SHO on/off
I finished this layout about a month ago. This was my first build, and it's working great! Sounds great directly into a USB interface, but even better with my amp (egnater tweaker combo). I used a yellow and a blue LED instead of two red ones, so I tried out different resistor values till the LED's were as bright as I wanted them. I get a slight pop when I turn on the boost section, but I haven't gotten around to trying to get rid of it yet.
ReplyDeleteHere are a few progress pics and gutshots:
http://imgur.com/a/OTPrt
did you try what i suggested just in the post right above ?
DeleteHi.
ReplyDeleteI build one of this and worked perfectly for 1 month.
After a month the booster is not working (switch works, led works, cables are fine, solders point are fine).
Could you please split graphically the schema in order that I can check only the booster part of the circuit and replace the components?
Thanks a lot
Riccardo
ok, I found it by the original scheme
Deletethanks a lot..
Hi guys!
ReplyDeleteI just finished my BOR and it works fine, great spongy, full sound!
But, I have a weird problem with the LEDs.
Both LEDs work, but not both at the same time - I can turn the BOR LED on and off, I can do the same for the SHO side, but here's where it gets interesting:
- turn on BOR led - OK
- turn on SHO led - OK but turns off BOR led
another example:
- turn on SHO led - OK, turn on BOR led - BOR doesn't light up, SHO stays ON... and then, of course, I turn SHO off and the BOR side is shining bright. WTF? :D
Should I maybe try a direct connection from 9V via two 2.2k resistors instead of using the single one from the layout? I connected it to the +side of the BOR LED and from there to the +side of the SHO LED, could that be the problem?
This does not affect the BOR and SHO sounds, I must add. They are perfectly fine by them selves or combined, the boost turns up the volume of the distortion and turning the distortion off leaves just the boost, so sound-wise everything's as it should be. The LEDs are the only ones acting strange.
Any help or suggestion would be appreciated!
Thanks!
so here's the solution:
Delete1) the LEDs obviously didn't work cause only one 2.2k resistor was to small a value to have them both light up if you use the LED connection from this schematic. it's like one is fine, but when you turn on both they suck too much so one kinda shuts down (does not burn out)
- using the off board wiring schematic is the way to go. I put two connections from 9V+ to each LED and used separate 2.2k resistors and now it works perfectly, both light up as the should
2) LOUD POP problem on SHO side is easily fixed with a 47k resistor from SHO OUT to ground, like bor ivlark and Tahar B suggested. absolutely NO pop at all, the first time, the 10th time, you can stomp it all you want, it's perfectly quiet
Hope this helps!
I had this exact problem! Thanks for the solution :)
DeleteFirst - thanks for the brilliant site - seriously.
ReplyDeleteQuestion on difference between schematic and layout: Both zener diodes go Gate to Ground on the layout. On the schematic, they go Gate to Source (lug3, source-side of the gain control) and not direct to ground. Seems like perhaps the schematic would be the way to do it.
Thoughts?
Thanks again for the best fx site going.
Stephen
I just noticed this little note beneath Mark's layout on Fred Brigg's site (rev-deux):
Delete[As you can see the zener diode is positioned slightly differently here - it doesn't make a difference to the tone!]
Guess I'm just curious if Gate-Source is more "correct" or if it's truly irrelevant.
I find a couple variations of the SHO out there, one with "Crackle" in series with the Gate as opposed to source-to-ground, so I guess there are a few ways to go (and of course I'm going with this layout ;-) )
Cheers
The original SHO had two 1N4148 diodes, one from gate to ground, the other from gate to supply. The next revision that was traced had a 9V1 zener diode going between gate and source, and the last schematic we have seen is the documentation for the ZVex Inventobox modules which shows the 9V1 zener now going between gate and ground.
DeleteAll 3 methods do the same thing though and that is to protect the mosfet from static electricity and so all 3 will work fine and sound identical, I've just done them using the latest known schematic, and being a ZVex document I think it's a good source.
http://www.zvex.com/module_instructions.pdf
Thanks Mark -
ReplyDeleteI was pretty sure these were strictly protection, and guess I was more unsure about if there would be any effect - but should'a realized that over-voltage/polarity action would be achieved regardless. I had not seen anything on the Inventobox at all - many thanks for that link. Though I'm hardly an authority, I seriously think your layouts are stellar Mark. I raise my glass to you.
hi guys, how can i add a volume pot in order to control the SHO?
ReplyDeletethere's already one :-)
DeleteBeen working on this and finally was able to open her up on my gigging amp. AMAZING...two caveats, however.
ReplyDeleteI start with the tone control dimed, nice and bright. As I roll it off, I seem to get a volume drop. Is that typical?
Also, at the highest gain setting, the bass notes get a little "blatty" or fuzz like. Anyway to attenuate the lows as the gain is increased?
I built the complete BOR, but I've only connected the dirt side to my breadboard testing box thingy I used to test circuits.
Thanks for any input!
Thanks for the layouts and info! Really great! Question : As a noob and first timer I'm having trouble matching the on and offboard electronics. I have soldered everything matching the above layout and the dual offboard BOR-layout. Now I'm left with the open ended wires on the main board some unconnected potentiometers. Could you be so kind to help me on my way if it's not too much trouble?
ReplyDeleteThanks in advance
Hi mates, thanks to all of you for the great info, please, anyone knows the voltage readings of the mosfet drains (Q1,Q2 & Q3) from an original BOR?? I understand that they will vary from unit to unit, but I suppose that it'll be a minimal range for consistency of the product. I've built a good sounding BOR but, for what I recall listening to an original some time ago (don't have the opportunity to view/check the inside of the pedal), it has slightly more gain and character than mine. I've tried interchanging the mosfets and noted a subtle but "hearable" change in gain, reflected in the measurings of the drains voltages as well. Run out of more BS170's at the moment for making more tests, but I would love to know that info in advance and have a better reference to make my BOR a great sounding one. My actual readings are:
ReplyDeleteQ1 Drain: 4,21V (Gain maxxed)
Q2 Drain: 4,46V
Q3 Drain: 4,47V
Thanks in advance guys, you rock!!
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ReplyDeleteHello, i've make the BOR, but the sound is very weak... i have to put the potentiometres level and drive to the max for playing.. and the tone is very dark..not like the original BOR..
ReplyDeleteTension at the different Q with the pots at twelve are
Q1: D 5,33V/G 2,62V/S 0,48V
Q2: D 4,66V/G 2,31V/S 0,13V
Q3: D 4,88V/G 2,41V/S 0,22V
Q4: D 5,32V/G 2,62V/S 0,46V
Sorry for my bad english, i'm french...!!
DeleteBuilt this up and had a problem that turned out to just be a bad JFET, but in the course of debugging I traced it out against the schematic and I think I found a minor error, or at least a point of confusion. The 100n connected to Tone 3 at the top right should be a 10n. Apparently there was a bad schematic floating around for a while, see http://revolutiondeux.blogspot.com/2012/01/zvex-box-of-rock.html. All the schematics I can find show a 10n, including the one lvlark posted above (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/IvIark_2006/media/Layouts/Schematics/BoxOfRock.png.html). The old point to point version on this site also shows a 10n, but in the comments on the old dirt side only version lvlark apparently corrected it from 10n to 100n: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2011/09/zvex-box-of-rock-dirt-side-vero.html
ReplyDeleteAnybody got an original or know what's up here? Thanks!
wow! thank you! Mine works well but I found it a bit "dark"... maybe this will help!
ReplyDeleteIt is possible to have more mids this pedal ?
ReplyDeleteHi everybody,
ReplyDeleteI've got this built up and the dirt side sounds fantastic. The SHO side works but is INSANELY loud in comparison even with the SHO gain turned all the way down. The gain knob is working, it gets even louder when I turn it up. I don't mean a little bit either, if my clean sound is barely audible when the SHO side kicks on it is earsplitting.
I've triple checked my build and components and switched out 3 different known good BS170s. The readings on Q4 look good:
D- 4.5v, G- 2.2v, S- 2.5mV
I ran out of ideas and tried running a 100k resistor from SHO Out to Ground because that is on the SHO standalone build, but that didn't seem to do anything.
Any ideas where I should start looking?
Thanks in advance, you guys are awesome.
Travis
Hello,
ReplyDeleteI build this pedal for the second time (first one was so good! thanks for the schematics!!).
But this time I have a problem with the SHO section: when the volume pot of the guitar is not at 100%, I get a constant noise/hum. The volume of the hum does not depend on the SHO potentiometer. I does not depend on the other section of the pedal (drive/tone/level...) witch works well.
the Q4 have these values (seems correct):
S=1,02v
G=3,12v
D=6,38v
does anyone have an idea?
thank you!
answer to myself: BAD POWER SUPPLY !!
Delete:-)
cheerio everybody,
ReplyDeletegot this thing done the other day and it sounds great. i'll probably get back to it to get a little less bass but over all this thing is amazing!!! thank you so much for charing all this!!!
just to let you guys know...
first i used the offboard wiring for switchable boost as shown in the guide, but i had extrem noise problems when using dirt+boost together. i then ended up going through the schematic and wired the switches exactly as shown there and oh wonder...working perfect!!!
hope that helps.
cheers
Noob question, from the schematic above, is there a way to tell the difference 100nF Polyester film capacitor and the 100nF Polybox? Wasnt sure which one went where? Thanks
ReplyDeleteThere's not difference between 100nF polyester and 100nF polybox. The value is the same, just the material. As long as you the right value you're fine.
DeleteHi Zach, thanks for the reply, I thought that was probably the case but have bought the parts in a kit and they provide 2x Polybox and 1x Polyester? Just thought it strange they didn't use 3 of the same
Deletemostly it's for space. you want to use the ones that are smaller where space is tighter. when it comes to building, in general the component material doesn't really matter as long as the value is the same. there are a few exceptions, one being that you don't really want to use large value ceramics because they can be microphonic, but you may what to use them in a fuzz, like a big muff, where it can add character so to speak. don't over think it, ya know what i mean?
Deletebuilt mine recently, and sound very good, no noise, perfect !!
ReplyDeleteThanks
i really don't regret having made it, a vintage sound like i wanted, maybe the gain is not enough powerful but it stays a really good one.
DeleteMine is no a bit dark i find.
Indeed, as stated above, the sound is a bit dark.
ReplyDeleteI recommend substituting the capacitor of 100n (paw 3 of tone), for one of 10N
Earns much more life
Great pedal and great sound.
One of the pedals with more "dynamism" that I have built, respect much the volume of your guitar, you can play with the volume of your guitar to clean form, to spectacular the gain by simply lowering the volume and raise it to make the maximum crunch Sound.
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ReplyDeleteI know a bunch of people have posted solutions for the "pop" on the SHO switch, but I can't fix it for the life of me. I've added pulldown resistors, changed the SHO caps, desoldered the LED...
ReplyDeleteThe weird thing is, I get the pop through my amp even if the pedal has no power at all, and I press the SHO stomp on and off. Any ideas what could be going on there?