Here's a collection of vero and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering all of the classic and popular effects in ever growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on two excellent forums, freestompboxes.org and circuitworkshop.com. Check those out for other great designs, layouts and discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please visit us at www.facebook.com/tagboardeffects!
Aces, cheers buddy. I'll be rocking this mutha phuqa tonight & this time I'll get to do it. (Didn't get out for the piercing moose the other night) :0(
IvIark, Have you seen the "proximity wah" version of this effect? Essentially it replaces the variable resistor with an LDR. The LDR is paired with an LED that is triggered by a theramin-like circuit that converts a copper PCB board into an antenna. I believe it is the first link when google searching the term "proximity wah." It would be awesome if you could create a unified vero layout for that project. It is definitely unique and a cool variant of this effect. Let me know what you think...
Ah piss, I can't find my old wah now!! Now I'm thinking I may have chucked that sucker out! Bummer. I'll still build & verify this bad boy (if it needs verifying) & hunt for an old goosed wah or volume pedal on the bay! :0(
I've got an old crybaby shell with a hole drilled in it for a switchable input cap. Anybody build this and try any of the typical wah mods for adding extra controls? Maybe an input cap switch or replacing the 100k trimpot with a pot for adjustable gain (that wouldnt be my choice)... anyone got anything for me to change the sweep or voicing? I dont know anything about how this guy works...
I just finished this... and it is really bassy sounding with barely any wah action. I'm thinking that 100n input cap is totally wrong... that would even be too much for a typical bass wah... but I'm not sure with this circuit
I've seen a few other layouts for this that use 10n capacitors and 1x100n caps... apparently the trick to this pedal is from having the correct capacitor sizes. I did sub a 12nf for the 15nf capacitor... could that be it?
I am a newb (well with like 30 builds under my belt) so sorry if these observations are dumb but that schematic only has 3 100n caps instead of the 4 in this layout. Also there is only 1 2n2 cap in your vero and 2x 2n2 caps in the schematic... i dont see a 2n2 cap in parallel with R9 from the schematic.
I'd really appreciate it if you could take a look- I think i've got it... maybe the 2 100n caps that you have going to the 100k trimmer - maybe they make 200n- instead of the other 2n2 in parallel with the 100k R9 resistor from the schematic?
This is a really, really cool sounding pedal. I'm surprised more people arent interested in this... take a $25 used crybaby and throw this $3 circuit in there for a truly unique wah sound
as I said mine is operational- but there is definitely an eq and sweep problem. it is kinda acting like i'm turning my tone control up and down and but it is way more effective at affecting the lowest frequencies... kinda cool actually. if you can imagine a foot controlled tone knob- i've been getting into tone knob swells recently ala jim campilongo... digression is my favorite game.
sorry, i'd greatly appreciate it if you could take another look, my newb eyes sense something isnt right, but I cant label it positively.
also there are two 10k resistors in your vero and only 1 in the schematic... i know some of this is extra filtering and whatnot. so sorry if i'm newbing out on you
Aah well spotted, I've posted the first version of the layout that I did which had a couple of values wrong (copy and paste without changing values). I corrected it but posted the old one! I'll change the layout now. Cheers for that.
i just redid mine a little bit according to this layout and now its sounding great! the only problem is that (no matter how I adjust the treadle- with it at the very bottom of the pot rotation with toe down is the best position right now) from toe up to toe down there is a large amount of inactive space. then the transisition from bass to treble is very quick. It's ALMOST there though.
Anyone have any suggestions for adjusting the pot to work better? I was thinking it might work to make the pot smaller like put a 100k resistor across lugs 1 and 3 to make it a 50k pot... but then I was thinking a different taper might work better- like a reverse log or maybe the W...
can you even get those in wah pots? So close to being perfect!
If we want to increase the pot rotation resolution between bass and treble then the taper would need to be changed. If the transistion is late in the linear sweep then reverse log should give you more resolution, early in the sweep and a log may be more suitable. The W taper was designed for graphic equalisers and has a reverse log tape between the fully CCW position and centre, and a log taper between centre and fully CW. That may be more suited to this but I'd check the log or reverse log first.
I'd really like to get this circuit working well... I just discovered the Analog Alchemy site where it shows calculations for tapered pots... I'm not really getting the percentage thing though... would this possibly be something that would work to get this taper down better?
say i want to get rid of the trim pot and just have this output at full volume.... do i just sub a 100K resistor in it's place? or take my output from the 2n2 cap...?
Exclude the trimmer and move the Output connection 1 row up. All a volume control does is dump some of the signal to ground, and so if you remove the part that does the dumping (pot or trimmer) and take the output from the cap just before it, it's like having a volume pot in the fully clockwise position.
So it seems that the last volume stage isn't the cause for low output.
It is 1:1 with the schematic, so i'm not sure where your problem lies... Personally i would probably just build a SHO or LPB1 with a trimmer after the output... +m
Hi again! Tried removing the trimpot and moved the output connection and had some more gain but not enough for unity gain. It´s a good sounding wha though. Maybe I will build a small booster after it if I can´t find another way to increase gain.
Aces, cheers buddy. I'll be rocking this mutha phuqa tonight & this time I'll get to do it. (Didn't get out for the piercing moose the other night) :0(
ReplyDeleteWill let you know how I get on mate.
Thanks, Matt
IvIark,
ReplyDeleteHave you seen the "proximity wah" version of this effect? Essentially it replaces the variable resistor with an LDR. The LDR is paired with an LED that is triggered by a theramin-like circuit that converts a copper PCB board into an antenna. I believe it is the first link when google searching the term "proximity wah." It would be awesome if you could create a unified vero layout for that project. It is definitely unique and a cool variant of this effect. Let me know what you think...
After some reading, it looks like that project is based on the Zvex Wah Probe...very cool stuff.
DeleteAh piss, I can't find my old wah now!! Now I'm thinking I may have chucked that sucker out! Bummer. I'll still build & verify this bad boy (if it needs verifying) & hunt for an old goosed wah or volume pedal on the bay! :0(
ReplyDeleteI've got an old crybaby shell with a hole drilled in it for a switchable input cap. Anybody build this and try any of the typical wah mods for adding extra controls? Maybe an input cap switch or replacing the 100k trimpot with a pot for adjustable gain (that wouldnt be my choice)... anyone got anything for me to change the sweep or voicing? I dont know anything about how this guy works...
ReplyDeleteI just finished this... and it is really bassy sounding with barely any wah action. I'm thinking that 100n input cap is totally wrong... that would even be too much for a typical bass wah... but I'm not sure with this circuit
ReplyDeletewho verified this?
timmy on here built it. It's definitely a 100n on the input, here's the schematic I built it from:
Deletehttp://beavisaudio.com/Projects/ColorsoundWah/index.htm
I've seen a few other layouts for this that use 10n capacitors and 1x100n caps... apparently the trick to this pedal is from having the correct capacitor sizes. I did sub a 12nf for the 15nf capacitor... could that be it?
DeleteI am a newb (well with like 30 builds under my belt) so sorry if these observations are dumb but that schematic only has 3 100n caps instead of the 4 in this layout.
Also there is only 1 2n2 cap in your vero and 2x 2n2 caps in the schematic... i dont see a 2n2 cap in parallel with R9 from the schematic.
I'd really appreciate it if you could take a look- I think i've got it... maybe the 2 100n caps that you have going to the 100k trimmer - maybe they make 200n- instead of the other 2n2 in parallel with the 100k R9 resistor from the schematic?
This is a really, really cool sounding pedal. I'm surprised more people arent interested in this... take a $25 used crybaby and throw this $3 circuit in there for a truly unique wah sound
as I said mine is operational- but there is definitely an eq and sweep problem. it is kinda acting like i'm turning my tone control up and down and but it is way more effective at affecting the lowest frequencies... kinda cool actually. if you can imagine a foot controlled tone knob- i've been getting into tone knob swells recently ala jim campilongo... digression is my favorite game.
sorry, i'd greatly appreciate it if you could take another look, my newb eyes sense something isnt right, but I cant label it positively.
also there are two 10k resistors in your vero and only 1 in the schematic... i know some of this is extra filtering and whatnot. so sorry if i'm newbing out on you
DeleteAah well spotted, I've posted the first version of the layout that I did which had a couple of values wrong (copy and paste without changing values). I corrected it but posted the old one! I'll change the layout now. Cheers for that.
DeleteI verify this to be totally awesome, thanks again.
ReplyDeleteThanks, did you use the older layout with the 33K to Wah 2 & 3 or the newer one with a 470 ohm?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteI used a 470 ohm resistor. I also changed the 6n8 cap to a 5n6.
Deletei just redid mine a little bit according to this layout and now its sounding great! the only problem is that (no matter how I adjust the treadle- with it at the very bottom of the pot rotation with toe down is the best position right now) from toe up to toe down there is a large amount of inactive space. then the transisition from bass to treble is very quick. It's ALMOST there though.
ReplyDeleteAnyone have any suggestions for adjusting the pot to work better? I was thinking it might work to make the pot smaller like put a 100k resistor across lugs 1 and 3 to make it a 50k pot... but then I was thinking a different taper might work better- like a reverse log or maybe the W...
can you even get those in wah pots? So close to being perfect!
If we want to increase the pot rotation resolution between bass and treble then the taper would need to be changed. If the transistion is late in the linear sweep then reverse log should give you more resolution, early in the sweep and a log may be more suitable. The W taper was designed for graphic equalisers and has a reverse log tape between the fully CCW position and centre, and a log taper between centre and fully CW. That may be more suited to this but I'd check the log or reverse log first.
DeleteI'd really like to get this circuit working well... I just discovered the Analog Alchemy site where it shows calculations for tapered pots... I'm not really getting the percentage thing though... would this possibly be something that would work to get this taper down better?
ReplyDeletesay i want to get rid of the trim pot and just have this output at full volume.... do i just sub a 100K resistor in it's place? or take my output from the 2n2 cap...?
ReplyDeleteExclude the trimmer and move the Output connection 1 row up. All a volume control does is dump some of the signal to ground, and so if you remove the part that does the dumping (pot or trimmer) and take the output from the cap just before it, it's like having a volume pot in the fully clockwise position.
Deletethanks boss...
ReplyDeleteExcuse my ignorance, but how could I mod this to have a bass, Q, or any other controls?
ReplyDeleteis there a way to make this wah more pronounced?
ReplyDeleteI have build it,and i have a problem wiyh the volume.
ReplyDeleteWhen i switch the wah,i have a volume drop,i lost almost half of it.
An idea ?
I have the exact same issue! A volume drop even with trimpot on max output.
DeleteHmmm.. You guys could omit the trimmer and take the output from one row above where it is now.
DeleteSchematic is verified and the layout checks out.. What transistors you used?
+m
I use a 2n5088.
ReplyDeleteMe too, a 2n5088. If I would take the output from one row above it still would be the same as turning up the trimpot, wouldn´t it?
ReplyDeleteYes it would - but omitting or snipping the trimmer altogether would stop part of the signal from getting dumped to ground through that 100K trimmer.
DeleteTrimmer is added as a internal volume control and that isn't on the schematic - So i'm assuming that it's the cause for volume drop.
Snip or 1M trimmer would be my next step.
+m
I´ll try that after christmas, I´m on the road right now. Thanks for the tip!
DeleteI've try 1M trimmer,i have a slightly difference,not enough to work.
ReplyDeleteSo it seems that the last volume stage isn't the cause for low output.
DeleteIt is 1:1 with the schematic, so i'm not sure where your problem lies... Personally i would probably just build a SHO or LPB1 with a trimmer after the output...
+m
Hi again! Tried removing the trimpot and moved the output connection and had some more gain but not enough for unity gain. It´s a good sounding wha though. Maybe I will build a small booster after it if I can´t find another way to increase gain.
ReplyDeleteSaddly, that may be the easiest option.
Delete+m
This thing looks cool, so how would we connect it like a regular wah? Wouldn't a regula B100K pot die pretty quick functioning like this?
ReplyDeleteThis thing looks cool, so how would we connect it like a regular wah? Wouldn't a regula B100K pot die pretty quick functioning like this?
ReplyDeleteAnybody knows how I can voice this to be a little bit brighter? I do like it, but I would like it to be a little bit brighter in the "down position".
ReplyDeleteI built this one, but didn't really like it much. It just doesn't compare to using a nice inductor IMO. Not bad if you wanna save $25 bucks though.
ReplyDelete