Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
You can tag this as verified. Sounds great with a TL071 (I did not have a NE5534) and has a very cool gnarly sound and it cleans up quite well with the volume on your guitar. It might be an idea to add a volume pot if you want to bring it down to unity level though...
Cheers Neil! I'll tag it right away. You can, of course, take the output wire to 100K pot's lug 3 (1 to gorund) and have the new output at lug 2... :) +m
Yes thanks Neil. Add a little volume daughterboard like the one at the bottom of the offboard wiring page. At least you'll be able to set and forget to a suitable volume for your gear then without having to add an external pot
Yes the 1M controls gain so even if you wanted to keep this pot-less, a couple of trimmers in the box would give you a lot of control to tweak it exactly to your liking.
note...i changed the 220k feedback resistor in the schematic to a 1meg gain pot instead... still get the same sound, more balls available. the "pink's clipper" is a little more refined sounding, will try and have vid up at youtube.com/666pinkster soon.
thanks to all who build my stuff and like it. makes it worth sharing. peace
thanks mark, i hope to build the latest variant today... it's running on my breadboard right now, will post video of it ASAP. maybe you or miro can do a better tighter layout for it if it's judged worthy.;)
two mistakes on my vero, and one revision... the revision is use a 500k for the gain pot, it works better... 1 meg can motorboat.
also, r6 on my layout needs it's bottom connected one row lower, or from hole 6 on row e to hole 6 on row H, not row G. and the gain pot should be pins 1 and 2 to e1, and pin 3 (top, if looking from the back with pins to right) connected to c1.
sorry for any inconvenience... will update my layout asap. peace
Hmm, just picked up a new project guitar (beat up Aria Pro II Cardinal CS-350). Didn't plan on any onboard effects until now...
I'll probably breadboard first to tailor it to the guitar, then build the control-less version. If I pull the trigger on that I'll post up some results to humour the masses.
Just a little comment: the 100p cap is doing nothing as it is. Either you need to omit the lower left cut and then it would provide some noise filtering for the VB voltage or you can omit the cut and the cap altogether as I think it's not having too much effect anyways. Or you could omit the cut and up that cap to say 10u or above, then it would give you real noise filtering on the VB voltage.
it was a case of using bigger caps, and swapping out smaller and smaller ones til it made almost no discernable differenct. the cap helped eliminate some of the rfi by putting it beween pin 3 and ground (pin 4 in this case)... above 100p it begins to change the tone noticeably... at least to my ears. peace. ;)
Thanks for the explanation, Mr Pinkster :) Btw. it makes a perfect first stage for the Matsumin Valvecaster :) I used a gain pot in the feedback loop and omited the volume pot for that.
thanks miro! no worries, it was language barrier, he was i guess trying to say he liked it, so it's all good. always glad if i can contribute a little something to the community! and thanks for the tags!! peace bro! jimi
:) Yeah, he was trying to say that was coming here to see if the vero was ready, but he used "copied" instead of "publihed" to say if it has been done on vero here :P. Now guys, to learn spanish, is a very easy language, I can tell you :P
the sad thing is i probably would have understood him better in spanish. my spanish blows (other than cuss words) but google translate is pretty good with it, lol
Have not had much success with this build, although I subbed a 2m2 resistor for the 4m7 assuming its a pulldown resistor and anything of a high value would be fine. Output is low and the op amp gets slightly too warm to be normal :-0 is this a grave error??
Sounds like it, opamps should never get too warm which often sugests a short somewhere. Measure your IC pin voltages and post them and we can see what it tells us
yeah, i've built 5 or 6 of these now in various incarnations. 2m2 is fine. 1m is fine. if the chip is getting hot tho, definitely a short in the power supply somewhere.. please post voltage measurements when ya can.
those voltages seem ok... i'd expect pin 6 to be a little higher maybe. this thing should be above unity... not a lot, but enough to be noticeable,
ummmm...found the problem i think. on the layout above, it has the output coming off the rail where pin 7 is... where the V+ goes in. there SHOULD be a cut under the 10k resistor just to the right of pin 7. right now, v+ is being sent right to the output as shown, will result in a weak overdrive and could definitely explain the chip getting hot. the output of pin 6 needs to go thru the 10k resistor and out thru the .47 cap as shown... but if you connect the output to the positive voltage supply as appears to be shown in the layout above *unless i'm wrong, gonna double check*...... ok, you can see the cut on the cuts part of the layout, but not the layout itself. did you miss that cut next to pin 7 by chance? cuz suddenly your problem seems to make sense if you did. please let us know how ya make out... with luck, ya missed that one cut and will be good to go once ya fix it. if that ISN't it, i'd look around to see if a bridge is going from the power supply to somewhere it shouldn't be. thanks, pink jimi
i'd check the voltage on mine, but it lives on my pedalboard in the band truck, and mine was built point to point on the back of an 8 pin ic socket... it's gooped in electrical tape and stuffed in a 1590 a, so... to be able to get at it would be a major PIA...
hopefully one of the good tagboard peeps can check their voltages for you... keep up on it, you'll prevail! ;)
Many thanks for your speedy reply and useful suggestions! Unfortunately the cut next to pin 7 is present on my build and I can't see any obvious problems. I built it on 2 boards with the same issues so I'm now thinking it may be a fault with the ne5534 or another component. Will let you know when I get to the bottom of it..
Yeah have a few tl071s and an ne5534 in a working build so will swap them out and see what happens although I'm concerned about wasting them if I have done something stupid! Will keep you posted thanks again for the help :-)
look around at the v+ rail. both pin 8 and pin 1 shouldn't be connected to anything, so seeing almost the same voltage is making me think maybe there's a micro connection where the rail track cut is supposed to be between them. i'm betting v+ is getting in with the input or output somehow.. no doubt whatsoever you'll find it, and we'll all be facepalming. ;)
I think I may have established the problem... Using a 5532 instead of a a 5534 may be responsible!! Wast just about to order some parts when I clocked it on the op amp page. Aaagh! Will let you know once I dig out a tl071 thanks again for all the help :-)
lol!!! if it makes ya feel any better jon, I DID THE SAME THING!!!!! lol..
"why the f@<k won't this bloody thing work?!?!?!?"
seriously... i did exactly that on the first vero version...i gotta big bag of assorted opamps and crap a friend gave me. 5534's and 32's in the same bag. oooopsies.
bet it will work now, and the 32 is probably still ok if ya didn't let the smoke out of it like i did. ;)
We've all done it. I was fault finding a build for ages, checking all values and my soldering, connections until I realised I hadn't put the IC in the socket. I called myself a few choice names about that one.
dude... for real. i built deadastro's chasm reverb... took my time. checked very connection, every wire. the goddang thing wouldn't work. i changed the chips, the belton brick, the caps... replaced almost every component i could think of. rewired the pots again and again. that was when i noticed i had inadvertantly mixed up `1k for the 10k resistors it needed. to be fair, the bag of resistors was mismarked, and had both 10 and 1k resistors in it ( i couldn't tell them apart without a meter, so i won't blame tayda for it this time), i never thought to check the COMPONENT side. ;)
fixed it, fired right up. it's a learning thing, from the gods of electrons to keep us humble i think :D
The 741 definitely sounds great. I didn't have any 5534 *or* TL071 chips, much to my chagrin - time to order some more supplies LOL - but I did have a whole slew of 741s, so in one went. Can't compare the sound to any of the others, of course, but I'm very pleased with it. Thanks for the great (and StupidSimple) circuit, pinkster! :-)
dude, so honored ya diggit. ;) thanks for the kind words...
use whatever single oa ya have, a 5532 was just cuz i had a bagful and i like the way they distort a lot... very sweet. but 741's are fine, i don't hear much difference.
wondering if a 308 would sound good, too...
i have this, and the big brother (pink's clipper) both on my live board now... i use this after my modulation stuff for BIGASS solo boost. ;)
farm me, i killed mine. it had an intermittent in the box (1590a) and i took it in to fix it, no idea how in the hell i managed to build this on the back of an ic socket.
thank god for you guys, i need one of these for tonite.... thanks brothers
if ya want it a little more focused sounding, try a 470k resistor instead of 1m in the feedback loop. also found a single ge with two series 914's sounds REAL good as the clipper. i failed trying to fix the original one. so i built it on vero, a little smaller than this one... just barely fits a 1590a... if i chop off the corners some. but tho it works on the bench, it can't withstand my foot. so it's going in a different box. sick of dicking around with trying to fit it in that tiny little thing. lol
Hey pinkster! I saw your pink clipper and I like it a lot. I want to build it but I'm a little confused about a few things...I'm not really sure how the switch is wired...there is some letters and numbers there that I'm missing where they go. Anyways, the thing sounds great and would really appreciate the help! Thnks Man U rock:) Btw, I did build the stupid simple OD. Sweet sounding simple build...
hey blackwing, thanks for the kind words. glad ya liked the SSOD, it's a fun little pedal. i will have to look at the schematics and shit for the clipper, it's been a while... i think the whole project is on DIYstompboxes.
what's the issue with the switch? there were so many versions, before it became the flying spaghetti monster i don't remember what's what. can ya post a link to the schematic you're talking about? then i can advise better hopefully. peace jimi
the switch works like this.... left side is a, right side b top pin of switch left is 1, mid is 2, bottom is 3 top pin of switch right is numbered (probably wrong) pin 6, middle is pin 5, bottom is pin 4. they all connect to whatever points on the circuit board they're labeled as. where it says guitar in would be the send to the circuit board from the bypass switch. the bottom right terminal has no connection. the rest just wire up as labeled. so like, if you're using a standard kind of bypass switch, where the terminal would be that goes to the input of the circuit board would be "guitar in" on the second switch. hope this helps. if it don't, hollah back. happy new years/ holidays etc peace jimi
pink's clipper is very cool, and has a place on my live board, but you guys may like the flying spaghetti monster instead. it's the final progression of this stomper. peace jimi
Ya, I was thinking about doing that one but I'm new to ge trannys and don't have any. Also, they seem like a pain to source and are a bit costly. Maybe, I will wait and build the spaghetti monster. That had the extra board didn't it? Any suggestions on trannys?
i don' remember an extra board bro, it may have. sometimes i'll build something and realize it needs a buffer or something and add one to it, but i think the spaghetti monster is all just one circuit. miro did a vero for it. the ge tranny in it i think cost me 16 cents or something stupid. pretty much any ge transistor should work, hell, pnp/npn i don't think it matters in this application. some of the SRC45's i was experimenting with had gains of maybe 40 or so. gain doesn't really matter too much. if ya wanna pm me an address somehow or other i can tell ya where to get ge's surplus CHEAP. ;) but i don't wanna post it publically, as they will all dissappear overnite. ;) but you can get cheap ac127/8's on ebay that will work. the leakier the better in my experience with this. i didn't try it, but a MOS/JFET may work in there as a clipper too... sometimes ge's will read the same as a FET when reverse beta'd. i gotta gig in a couple hours, if i get a chance, i'll try and see what the hell is in there definitively...i really don't remember much. whatever i did is posted in the threads on diystompboxes or freestompboxes. peace, and happy new years to all ;)
Thnx pink...there was a mention of an xtra gain stage daughterboard you recomended building along with it.Thats all!!!! mail me. blacck_crows@yahoo.com...good new yr to u too...
You can tag this as verified.
ReplyDeleteSounds great with a TL071 (I did not have a NE5534) and has a very cool gnarly sound and it cleans up quite well with the volume on your guitar.
It might be an idea to add a volume pot if you want to bring it down to unity level though...
Cheers Neil!
DeleteI'll tag it right away. You can, of course, take the output wire to 100K pot's lug 3 (1 to gorund) and have the new output at lug 2... :)
+m
Yes thanks Neil. Add a little volume daughterboard like the one at the bottom of the offboard wiring page. At least you'll be able to set and forget to a suitable volume for your gear then without having to add an external pot
DeleteYou could chuck a gain control where the 1M resistor is too I'd suppose? Not that it needs one, sounds great with the guitar volume adjusted.
ReplyDeleteYes the 1M controls gain so even if you wanted to keep this pot-less, a couple of trimmers in the box would give you a lot of control to tweak it exactly to your liking.
Deleteholy shit, that was fast.... lol... there's a more complex and updated version of this at diystompboxes, very similar but a little ballsier.
ReplyDeleteyou can replace the 1m resistor with a 1m pot, but make sure ya only use it as a variable resistor, if ya ground it it won't work.
pretty much any single op will work... lol... this vero layout is HUGE compared to what i built. ;)
if ya really need a volume, 50k tacked on the output should do well. i just use the knobs on my guitar.
glad you guys are digging it, always an honor to have one of my designs featured here!!
peace
pink jimi
Thanks for the continued great work Pink Jimi!
Deletei am honored to be able to give something back to the community that has supported me in my fuzzquest for years. ;) thank you for the kind words. ;)
Deletei'm honored to be able to offer stuff to my fellow musicians and diy'ers.
ReplyDelete;)
here's the latest versions (i hope mark and miro don't mind)
http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/pinksclippervero1b_zps0d28b230.png
http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/pinksclipper_zpsb0a9aa1b.png
note...i changed the 220k feedback resistor in the schematic to a 1meg gain pot instead... still get the same sound, more balls available. the "pink's clipper" is a little more refined sounding, will try and have vid up at youtube.com/666pinkster soon.
thanks to all who build my stuff and like it. makes it worth sharing.
peace
Thanks for the latest layout, and it's never a problem Jimi, you can always post whatever you like here :o)
Deletethanks mark,
Deletei hope to build the latest variant today... it's running on my breadboard right now, will post video of it ASAP.
maybe you or miro can do a better tighter layout for it if it's judged worthy.;)
here's the bigger louder more distorted variant:
Deletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDG7nyrYk0w
two mistakes on my vero, and one revision... the revision is use a 500k for the gain pot, it works better... 1 meg can motorboat.
Deletealso, r6 on my layout needs it's bottom connected one row lower, or from hole 6 on row e to hole 6 on row H, not row G.
and the gain pot should be pins 1 and 2 to e1, and pin 3 (top, if looking from the back with pins to right) connected to c1.
sorry for any inconvenience... will update my layout asap.
peace
updated verified vero for "pink's clipper"
Deletehttp://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/pinksclippervero1b_zps75c98cd0.png
Hmm, just picked up a new project guitar (beat up Aria Pro II Cardinal CS-350). Didn't plan on any onboard effects until now...
ReplyDeleteI'll probably breadboard first to tailor it to the guitar, then build the control-less version. If I pull the trigger on that I'll post up some results to humour the masses.
Just built one if these (with TL071 and 1N4002) and the clipping sounds great! Really nice dynamics and decay.
ReplyDeleteWith my Telecaser the neck pickup gets pretty muddy but I think that's mostly from the output slamming my ac4
Just a little comment: the 100p cap is doing nothing as it is. Either you need to omit the lower left cut and then it would provide some noise filtering for the VB voltage or you can omit the cut and the cap altogether as I think it's not having too much effect anyways. Or you could omit the cut and up that cap to say 10u or above, then it would give you real noise filtering on the VB voltage.
ReplyDeleteWell spotted, that cut was a remnant of the way I laid it out first and is no longer required. I'll update the layout, thanks for the heads up.
Deleteit was a case of using bigger caps, and swapping out smaller and smaller ones til it made almost no discernable differenct. the cap helped eliminate some of the rfi by putting it beween pin 3 and ground (pin 4 in this case)... above 100p it begins to change the tone noticeably... at least to my ears.
Deletepeace. ;)
Thanks for the explanation, Mr Pinkster :) Btw. it makes a perfect first stage for the Matsumin Valvecaster :) I used a gain pot in the feedback loop and omited the volume pot for that.
Deletecool!! i've gotta board someone etched for a valvecaster, maybe i'll give it a shot bro... thank you for the headsup!
Delete;)
i think i just got accused on youtube of ripping off pink jimi photon... lol...
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDG7nyrYk0w
yeah..... i am ripping myself off!! ;)
miro and IvIark, can ya add the suzy q to the pjp tag too please? thanks guys!!
rock on!!!
All kinds of weirdos on the move today :P
DeleteI added the tag for Suzy Q.
+m
thanks miro!
Deleteno worries, it was language barrier, he was i guess trying to say he liked it, so it's all good. always glad if i can contribute a little something to the community!
and thanks for the tags!!
peace bro!
jimi
I checked the comments and the first one was quite baffling... My spanish is weak, but i got the idea from the following comments :)
Delete+m
:) Yeah, he was trying to say that was coming here to see if the vero was ready, but he used "copied" instead of "publihed" to say if it has been done on vero here :P. Now guys, to learn spanish, is a very easy language, I can tell you :P
Deletethe sad thing is i probably would have understood him better in spanish. my spanish blows (other than cuss words) but google translate is pretty good with it, lol
DeleteHave not had much success with this build, although I subbed a 2m2 resistor for the 4m7 assuming its a pulldown resistor and anything of a high value would be fine. Output is low and the op amp gets slightly too warm to be normal :-0 is this a grave error??
ReplyDeleteSounds like it, opamps should never get too warm which often sugests a short somewhere. Measure your IC pin voltages and post them and we can see what it tells us
Deleteyeah, i've built 5 or 6 of these now in various incarnations. 2m2 is fine. 1m is fine.
ReplyDeleteif the chip is getting hot tho, definitely a short in the power supply somewhere.. please post voltage measurements when ya can.
Thanks for getting back to me chaps, I'll get those voltages over ASAP!
ReplyDeleteVoltages are as follows
ReplyDeletePin Voltage
1. 7.4
2. 3.8
3. 4.4
4. 0
5. 1.5
6. 1.7
7 8.7
8. 7.8
Have had a good look but can't see any obvious errors - any help would be greatly appreciated!!
those voltages seem ok... i'd expect pin 6 to be a little higher maybe.
ReplyDeletethis thing should be above unity... not a lot, but enough to be noticeable,
ummmm...found the problem i think. on the layout above, it has the output coming off the rail where pin 7 is... where the V+ goes in. there SHOULD be a cut under the 10k resistor just to the right of pin 7. right now, v+ is being sent right to the output as shown, will result in a weak overdrive and could definitely explain the chip getting hot. the output of pin 6 needs to go thru the 10k resistor and out thru the .47 cap as shown... but if you connect the output to the positive voltage supply as appears to be shown in the layout above *unless i'm wrong, gonna double check*...... ok, you can see the cut on the cuts part of the layout, but not the layout itself.
did you miss that cut next to pin 7 by chance? cuz suddenly your problem seems to make sense if you did.
please let us know how ya make out... with luck, ya missed that one cut and will be good to go once ya fix it. if that ISN't it, i'd look around to see if a bridge is going from the power supply to somewhere it shouldn't be.
thanks,
pink jimi
here's the schematic for ya, if it's any help....
ReplyDeletehttp://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/SSOD1A2_zps6d120fe5.png
i'd check the voltage on mine, but it lives on my pedalboard in the band truck, and mine was built point to point on the back of an 8 pin ic socket... it's gooped in electrical tape and stuffed in a 1590 a, so... to be able to get at it would be a major PIA...
hopefully one of the good tagboard peeps can check their voltages for you... keep up on it, you'll prevail! ;)
Many thanks for your speedy reply and useful suggestions! Unfortunately the cut next to pin 7 is present on my build and I can't see any obvious problems. I built it on 2 boards with the same issues so I'm now thinking it may be a fault with the ne5534 or another component. Will let you know when I get to the bottom of it..
ReplyDeleteshoot, jon, i'm stumped bro... looking at this thing, there's really not much that can be wrong with it!! ;)
ReplyDeletei got faith in ya tho.
do ya have a 741 or a tl071 or something kicking around you could try instead?
Yeah have a few tl071s and an ne5534 in a working build so will swap them out and see what happens although I'm concerned about wasting them if I have done something stupid! Will keep you posted thanks again for the help :-)
ReplyDeletelook around at the v+ rail. both pin 8 and pin 1 shouldn't be connected to anything, so seeing almost the same voltage is making me think maybe there's a micro connection where the rail track cut is supposed to be between them.
ReplyDeletei'm betting v+ is getting in with the input or output somehow..
no doubt whatsoever you'll find it, and we'll all be facepalming. ;)
I think I may have established the problem...
ReplyDeleteUsing a 5532 instead of a a 5534 may be responsible!! Wast just about to order some parts when I clocked it on the op amp page. Aaagh! Will let you know once I dig out a tl071 thanks again for all the help :-)
lol!!! if it makes ya feel any better jon, I DID THE SAME THING!!!!! lol..
ReplyDelete"why the f@<k won't this bloody thing work?!?!?!?"
seriously... i did exactly that on the first vero version...i gotta big bag of assorted opamps and crap a friend gave me. 5534's and 32's in the same bag. oooopsies.
bet it will work now, and the 32 is probably still ok if ya didn't let the smoke out of it like i did. ;)
rock on!!
We've all done it. I was fault finding a build for ages, checking all values and my soldering, connections until I realised I hadn't put the IC in the socket. I called myself a few choice names about that one.
Deletedude... for real.
Deletei built deadastro's chasm reverb... took my time. checked very connection, every wire. the goddang thing wouldn't work.
i changed the chips, the belton brick, the caps... replaced almost every component i could think of. rewired the pots again and again.
that was when i noticed i had inadvertantly mixed up `1k for the 10k resistors it needed. to be fair, the bag of resistors was mismarked, and had both 10 and 1k resistors in it ( i couldn't tell them apart without a meter, so i won't blame tayda for it this time),
i never thought to check the COMPONENT side. ;)
fixed it, fired right up. it's a learning thing, from the gods of electrons to keep us humble i think :D
Unsurprisingly this device now works perfectly with TL071 installed, super little board it is too! Thanks for the help folks :-)
ReplyDeletecool beans. rock on bud!!
ReplyDeletebtw, guru Gus Smalley suggests trying a 741 in this circuit, too, he says it may have a more musical distortion curve to some peeps..
ReplyDeleteonwards and upwards...
Thanks pink might check that out, i'll try not to confuse that with a 712!
ReplyDelete:D
ReplyDeleteThe 741 definitely sounds great. I didn't have any 5534 *or* TL071 chips, much to my chagrin - time to order some more supplies LOL - but I did have a whole slew of 741s, so in one went. Can't compare the sound to any of the others, of course, but I'm very pleased with it. Thanks for the great (and StupidSimple) circuit, pinkster! :-)
ReplyDeletedude, so honored ya diggit.
ReplyDelete;) thanks for the kind words...
use whatever single oa ya have, a 5532 was just cuz i had a bagful and i like the way they distort a lot... very sweet. but 741's are fine, i don't hear much difference.
wondering if a 308 would sound good, too...
i have this, and the big brother (pink's clipper) both on my live board now... i use this after my modulation stuff for BIGASS solo boost. ;)
farm me, i killed mine. it had an intermittent in the box (1590a) and i took it in to fix it, no idea how in the hell i managed to build this on the back of an ic socket.
ReplyDeletethank god for you guys, i need one of these for tonite.... thanks brothers
i got 2 hours... better get my build on
peace
if ya want it a little more focused sounding, try a 470k resistor instead of 1m in the feedback loop.
ReplyDeletealso found a single ge with two series 914's sounds REAL good as the clipper.
i failed trying to fix the original one. so i built it on vero, a little smaller than this one... just barely fits a 1590a... if i chop off the corners some. but tho it works on the bench, it can't withstand my foot. so it's going in a different box. sick of dicking around with trying to fit it in that tiny little thing. lol
Hey pinkster! I saw your pink clipper and I like it a lot. I want to build it but I'm a little confused about a few things...I'm not really sure how the switch is wired...there is some letters and numbers there that I'm missing where they go. Anyways, the thing sounds great and would really appreciate the help! Thnks Man U rock:) Btw, I did build the stupid simple OD. Sweet sounding simple build...
ReplyDeletehey blackwing,
Deletethanks for the kind words. glad ya liked the SSOD, it's a fun little pedal.
i will have to look at the schematics and shit for the clipper, it's been a while... i think the whole project is on DIYstompboxes.
what's the issue with the switch? there were so many versions, before it became the flying spaghetti monster i don't remember what's what. can ya post a link to the schematic you're talking about? then i can advise better hopefully.
peace
jimi
http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/pinksclippervero1b_zps75c98cd0.png
Deletethe switch works like this.... left side is a, right side b
top pin of switch left is 1, mid is 2, bottom is 3
top pin of switch right is numbered (probably wrong) pin 6, middle is pin 5, bottom is pin 4.
they all connect to whatever points on the circuit board they're labeled as. where it says guitar in would be the send to the circuit board from the bypass switch. the bottom right terminal has no connection.
the rest just wire up as labeled.
so like, if you're using a standard kind of bypass switch, where the terminal would be that goes to the input of the circuit board would be "guitar in" on the second switch. hope this helps. if it don't, hollah back.
happy new years/ holidays etc
peace
jimi
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=106156.0
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=106130.msg959054#msg959054
Cool thnx!!!!!
ReplyDeletepink's clipper is very cool, and has a place on my live board, but you guys may like the flying spaghetti monster instead. it's the final progression of this stomper.
ReplyDeletepeace
jimi
Ya, I was thinking about doing that one but I'm new to ge trannys and don't have any. Also, they seem like a pain to source and are a bit costly. Maybe, I will wait and build the spaghetti monster. That had the extra board didn't it? Any suggestions on trannys?
ReplyDeletei don' remember an extra board bro, it may have. sometimes i'll build something and realize it needs a buffer or something and add one to it, but i think the spaghetti monster is all just one circuit. miro did a vero for it.
ReplyDeletethe ge tranny in it i think cost me 16 cents or something stupid. pretty much any ge transistor should work, hell, pnp/npn i don't think it matters in this application. some of the SRC45's i was experimenting with had gains of maybe 40 or so. gain doesn't really matter too much.
if ya wanna pm me an address somehow or other i can tell ya where to get ge's surplus CHEAP. ;) but i don't wanna post it publically, as they will all dissappear overnite. ;)
but you can get cheap ac127/8's on ebay that will work.
the leakier the better in my experience with this. i didn't try it, but a MOS/JFET may work in there as a clipper too... sometimes ge's will read the same as a FET when reverse beta'd.
i gotta gig in a couple hours, if i get a chance, i'll try and see what the hell is in there definitively...i really don't remember much. whatever i did is posted in the threads on diystompboxes or freestompboxes.
peace, and happy new years to all ;)
Thnx pink...there was a mention of an xtra gain stage daughterboard you recomended building along with it.Thats all!!!! mail me. blacck_crows@yahoo.com...good new yr to u too...
ReplyDeleteemail sent bro.... rock on
ReplyDeletehaven't had a chance to get in my basement to rip shit apart, too damn cold for my thin hippy blood ;)
Thnx got it!
ReplyDelete