The Fnord is a octaver / fuzz type circuit with some twists. It blends a scrambler / octaver type fuzz with a more traditional fuzz / distortion. From zipper/Velcro tones to a full throated distortion, or a combination of the two. Add a sizzle to your leads, make a rhythm sound that harkens back to the days of screwdriver modified speakers, or a tight lightly gated distortion. If you can’t read between the lines, Fnord!
I think we have ourselves another Tim Escobedo ripoff! Check out his Digital Octave Fuzz.... looks awfully similar.
ReplyDeleteWell spotted, absolutely bang on as far as I'm concerned.
DeleteMPSA13 on the front end for a bit more heat, and rail decoupling I think are the only differences.
DeleteI've never actually heard the original Escobedo circuit, but this sounds really really cool!
CD4070? Isn't that an XOR logic gate?????
ReplyDeleteYep
DeleteHey Mark, the diode switch is present on the original?
ReplyDeleteWill have to order some 4070, shit, I really hate when want to build an effect and I lack some component, and this is not available at my local store...... in three weeks I'll test it :P
DeleteJ.
It was in the schematic mate, (although it was only a SPST) but despite all the ground connections around the IC I was still getting pissed off trying to sneak more components in to ground so just added a DPDT to make things easier for me! :o)
DeleteThe board shows switch pads that are linked so it may be a permanent state in the original. But having something like that switchable may always be more useful, I'm sure we'll find out soon :o)
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh218/reverse_engineer/c0ec3b8c.jpg
Some people whio uses the original suggest to drive a bit more the input, to better decay on high notes and sustain. Any simple mod to improve the input directly on the circuit?
ReplyDeleteYeah this is based on the Escobedo circuit, and they weren't secretive about it when they told us it was coming out. I had the logic fuzz built by culturejam before I started building pedals and it was really cool
ReplyDeleteOne knob didn't do anything except at the two far extremes of the sweep but one side was a bit woofier and one was more lasery
I think culturejam worked with BAT on the development of this and he's fond of Escobedo
ReplyDeleteIt works, but the output is very low, and when you manipulate the fnord knob, it gets even lower. Not sure if that's the wa it should work.
ReplyDeleteJ.
Don't think so mate. I transposed the pins over because in the schematic I have the pins used were on the left side which obviously made it awkward for the Fnord pot wires. So I used the right hand channels instead and I'm fairly sure I got them right but I'll check it over.
DeleteI've been checking it with the audio probe. The signal gets to the cmos input loud and clear, but gets out very weaky and low on pins 10 and 11 (outputs), so the poroblem is on the cmos, chip itself or wiring.
DeleteI'll try a new chip (just have two, so no many options :P)
J.
And works the same with the other chip. I'm afraid, that as with some other effects that use this kind of cmos chips, the exact model is mandatory, and I've jut seen that my ics are HEF4070BP and the one that appears on the pic published by Mark is a CD4070BE. I've just ordered a few (Tayda), even thought I can see no difference checking the datasheets.
DeleteJ.
Thanks for the info mate, I think I'll put it on hold while we wait.
DeleteOh, fuck it!, I was ready to throw this board to the "shit bag" when I played a really hard pickin power chord...... and the sound at proper volume appeared!
DeleteSo te problem is that the effect is extremely GATED, you need to play with a hammer instead of a pick.
So, it has shown me a new direction: the darlington. I used a BC547C, and it sounds as it should.
Very gated effect, maybe more than in the video but we have to take in mind that it shows no long notes at all. I bet that now is just a matter of tweaking. Have to try win 2n5088. I've used 2n39804 with very similar results to the bc547.
So, I think you can tag it, warning that the MPSA13 is useless here.
J.
Awesome thanks mate, I'll tag it
DeleteHi Mark!
DeleteWhere have you found the schematic? I've checked Escobedo's Digital Octave Fuzz and it's pretty much the same except the transistor. He used 2N5088, so like Javi I think darlington here gates as hell.
The schematic was donated anonymously and I was asked not to publish it. But yes it is extremely close to the DOF.
DeleteHi! I built this circuit but the output is below unity even at max volume, is there anything I can add to the circuit to boost it?
ReplyDeleteWhat transistors did you use?
DeleteTried a whole bunch, this was with a 5088
DeleteSomething's gotta be wrong somewhere, I'm going to replace the caps and poke around. I'll report back. Thanks for all your work man, I'm a big fan
DeleteI've spent all night on, still not sure what caused the volume drop but it's gone, must have been a stray filament. Anyway, I found that a BC118 sounds really cool in this
DeleteNice one!
DeleteHey!
ReplyDeleteI built this one tonight. Awesome circuit! Also got the gate problem with the MPSA13. I tried all my npn transistors and liked the BC550c the best. I also changed the cap at the input to a 330n for a bit more body. It really screams and sounds nice and heavy :D
Gonna play with the diodes later on. Got a big volume drop when I switch them on. I used 4148 tho, cause I was out of 914. Could that be the reason for the volume drop?
Anyway, nice and simple circuit. Was fun to built.
Great work lvlark. (on all those vero's you share)
Cheers!
With the diodes switched into circuit you'll always get a volume drop because the signal is being limited with some dumped to ground. The 1N4148 and 1N914 are essentially the same diode so the results should be the same.
DeleteTry leds for more volume but slightly less clipping.
DeleteCheers
Dave
Off course.That sounds obvious now you've explained Mark. Thanks!
DeleteAnd thank you for the led tip Dave. Definitely Gonna mess around with some leds:)
Cheers guys!
Tried a few NPN I had and settled for a BC549. I might try to tweak it changing LEDs and input cap, but it sounds already really nice! thanks for the layout!
ReplyDeletejust built this one today. I used a DPDT on/off/on for the diode switch (two 1n4148's / none / two red leds) and it has a ton of output on al three modes. i'm using a 2N5089 for the transistor and it sounds awesome.
ReplyDeletecurious to hear how it sounds with those subs, john! here's how mine sounds with a rickenbacker 4004 (drop A tuning...), straight to soundcard, though:
ReplyDeletehttps://soundcloud.com/cylens/fnord-bass
mine sounds pretty close to yours. here's how mine sounds with a P bass thru an amp (genz benz ST900/215 cab recorded on a Zoom H4n).
Deletehttp://soundcloud.com/johnk_10/fnord
Great! I really like it on bass, I'm not sure I tried a 2N5089, will try it for sure. Did you change a cap? It seems OK with stock values, for me.
DeleteSo this will be the first pedal I am going to try and build. I had a question on your DPDT and the two diodes. Is this still the DPDT footswitch and not an extra toggle? And are you just adding these two diodes, both soldered into 1 & 4 respectively, directly to the DPDT?
ReplyDeleteA picture would be suuuper helpful if you have time. ;)
Thanks!
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeletehi! just built this one but i am having the volume drop problem :( i used 5088,89 ,mpsa13 and still the volume drops dont know what to do ? This is my 20 pedal from here and the first one i am having problem! Great work lvlark.
ReplyDeletejust built a second one the same thing happened :(
ReplyDeleteYou're going to just have to try a selection of different transistors in there. I just think this is one of those awkward builds that takes too much tweaking to get right.
DeleteOk thanks Mark, the 3904 is ok but is gated on every note after 12th fret. Is there any other fuzz that I can build that is similar to this one?
DeleteVery odd this one. I added a socket for the transistor, and have tried a lot of the successful ones here (2n5089, MPSA13, 2n3904), but the volume seems to drop after about 10 minutes of playing. Any clues? I checked the solder joints, etc. and all looks good.
ReplyDeletewould changing the two 10k resistors at the emitter and collector with trimpots,do any good?
ReplyDeleteSo, eventually, I did it , the MPSA13, does not work at all in this project, any other transistor is fine. Mine worked only with certain values on the emitter and collector , so i highly suggest that you put trimpots in!
ReplyDeletehttp://hgecontraptions.blogspot.ro/2014/09/black-arts-toneworks-fnord-fuzz-clone.html
With the MPSA13 I had some sound. It acted like an attack envelope Soft attack that swelled to normal then soft fade. It was kind of fun to play with but not to keep. I tossed in a 2N5089 and it sprung to life and had great sustain. The gating only occurred at nearly zero input but remained silent until played. I think this is a keeper even though I only built it out of boredom.
ReplyDeleteThanks guys
I have worked with Tim Escobedo's Digital Octave Fuzz before and have a design based on it. A few tips and comments to share. It will always gate. that is the nature of the octave portion of the circuit. The first XOR acts as a comparator and will square your signal up. The fact is unless your signal is over a certain threshold it will not flip the logic gate to TRUE. XOR gates are TRUE only when both signals are DIFFERENT. So if your signal is lower voltage coming in it will not trigger the gate until it swings high enough. The second gate is the octaver and the final pot acts as a blend between the straight square wave and the output of the octave.One thing to note is the first XOR can control the phase. one input is fedd the signal and the other is tied to ground. You can tie that second input positive ( pin13 in this circuit) instead and get a flipped phase. if you want less gating feed it a hotter signal and if you want more feed it less. Roll your guitar volume back for pure nasty glitch. Single coils on neck pickup will improve the octave. For contrast here is a different design around the octave portion.
ReplyDeletehttp://youtu.be/gXNY3v_v_cw
http://youtu.be/wNIXs_Xj2mM
Just played around a while with this circuit.
ReplyDelete1: As discussed above - ditch the Darlington. Any basic NPN will work fine.2N5088 for instance.
2: Swap the 10K from emitter to ground for 1K5.
It sure does gate, but with those two changes it's actually pretty usable.
+m
This mod works - i have used a 2N5089 and emiter resistor 1.5k.
DeleteStill gated but no volume drop.
I have one question about DPDT switch with diodes, in advance sorry for my English.
ReplyDeleteThe wire called "silence 3" from board goes to pot and then to DPDT? I connected it this way but I can't hear any difference, so I think something went wrong. :D
I used BC547/549 - 549 has much more bite!
Thank You for this site, it's my second project from "tagboardeffects" and second awesome.
Happy Easter!
built today used bc549 and it burst into life first try so verified. but it freaks me out it reminds me of a women real f@#!ing temper mental with some gating issues. any suggestions on how to eliminate the gating issue>? used everything it said to use in vero pic thing except for the transistor. any help would be much apreciated. thanks
ReplyDeleteIve been building this last week and this is what I experienced...
ReplyDelete1. volume drop issue: I got no problem.. the board is verified.
2. Gated issue: when using a hi-gain transistor like the 2n5800 or MPSA18 .. its louder and the notes are longer but minimal octave effect.
3. my vote for the transistor is the BS170.. it is gated but the octave effect is spot on.. just like the demos. (note: short notes.. gated)
4. put an LED on the blank side of the switch.. it will glow according to pick response at when the fnord pot is at half...
Im having a hard time getting a clean blend to work with this circuit? Anyone hsve a clue as to why? Ive tried the split n blend, and the mini jfet blend in as many configurations as i can think of throught the circuit and csnt seem to get it right. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI found the MPSA 13 way too gated.
ReplyDeleteI liked a metal 2N2222, and a 2N5551.
Eventually I went with a MPSA 18, I think it has more bass...
Verified!!! Just a few notes:
ReplyDelete-the cd4070 IC is very sensitive, so be careful and don't touch the pins with the hand, if you touch it, sometimes the response is very different and the notes will be excesive gated.
-Put a trimpot instead the 100K(R7) and try different values for C5,this will help to achieve a better octave effect.
-1N4148 for clipping diodes works perfect, 3mm red leds works nice too.
Brill thanks matey
DeleteC5=2.2nF
ReplyDeleteNo good sound, or sound at all sometimes. At least after C4 (fuzz preamp).
ReplyDeleteMaybe the CD4070 are screwed.
Any voltage readings around there? Thanks!
Built this exactly to the layout. It kind of worked briefly, but with the problems mentioned above, mainly the gated sound. You had to strum hard to get it to come to life. The silence knob had to be cranked for it to work at all. When I tried swapping out the transistor for a 2N5088, it completely stopped working, and going back to the original MPSA13 did not help. I went through 3 chips trying those. All I can say is, build this on a breadboard first if you're thinking of building it. Try some of the suggested mods.
ReplyDeleteUpdate: Six months later I went to try and debug this this with an audio probe. It worked right away. Not sure what the issue was before. Only thing to note, you should put it first in your chain of pedals. Putting it after a non-true-bypass pedal will give you trouble.
Deletehello. I created it with 2n5088 and TC4030bp. The hfe of 2n5088 is 490. At first I wired it according to the circuit diagram, but there is a gate and the sustain is short and the sound does not sound. So I tried adjusting the emitter resistance value with a trimmer. In my case, it felt good around 7k. A 2n2 capacitor was added to the input to prevent noise.
ReplyDeletegood evening. It's an addition.
ReplyDeleteSince the output of the transistor is input to the CMOS circuit, it seems necessary to output a signal as stable as possible. Specifically, I think the noise causes a gate or glitch sound. A 47n capacitor was added to the input to reduce transistor noise. It seems better to adjust the resistance value by trimming not only the rear emitter but also the collector.