Monday, 30 June 2014

Boss CE-2

Seeing as I'm on a roll with these at the moment I thought I'd add another popular chorus pedal.  It's based on a few bits from 3 different schematics, and includes a Vibe and Intensity mods from the Tonepad scheme, rate LED and depth increase from Madbean's Pork Barrel and the schematic from Electrosmash which has a great in depth analysis of the CE-2 which is well worth a read, although I did decide to use common 2N5088 transistors as used in the Pork Barrel instead of the less common 2SC used in the original.

For the intensity switch I've opted for a 100p cap to go in parallel with the 47p between IC4 pins 5 & 7, but I'd recommend socketing the 100p and trying a few different values to see which works best for you giving the best range of tones.

One for a 125B I reckon.

Info about the fine original:
The CE-2 effect unit is a new. compact version of the famous BOSS CE-l chorus ensemble, which has become one of the world's most popular units of its type on the  market.  Two separate controls are provided for independent variation of RATE and DEPTH to expand the creation possibilities. This advanced unit also has a fine S/N [S/N 90dB or more (IHF-A)] for lower noise operation. An LED lights to tell you at a glance when effect is on.









As an added bonus, here's an add-on stereo daughterboard option.  Note that a stereo option isn't available for the CE-2 and so this has been inferred from the implementation in the CE-3.  It should be good to go but should still be considered experimental until someone verifies, and so at this stage it's one for the tweakers.

All other connections to the CE-2 board have been removed to simplify the layout, and you'll see that the B connection will require the covering link to be pushed to one side slightly to allow the wire access to the hole.  If you are including the Vibe switch option then a DPST will now be needed (or DPDT if they are easier to source), with the A wire also being switched.





And on Miro's recommendation this version removes the Madbean depth mod which took something away from the authentic CE2 sound to him.  I've called it "Original", but have left the Vibe and Intensity switches in there as an option simply because you will still be able to set it in 100% original mode if you choose to using the switches (or omit them entirely of course if you prefer).




123 comments:

  1. amazing - I've been working on a very stripped down version of this for the wizard collection I'm doing. great minds ay!

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  2. If the vibrato sw is not wanted do I just connect vib1 and vib2 with each other via a wire?

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    Replies
    1. Just omit the wires and move the 47K at Vibe switch 2 horizontally on the top row above the IC, on either side of the cut

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  3. Is a 1n4148 ok to sub for the 1s1588?

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  4. Good luck getting that bastard in a 125b. I built Sabro's a while back and finally admitted defeat and went with a 1590bb. Of course mine has one more pot and one more switch than this layout. It was a sonovabitch. Sounds wonderful, though.

    It's funny.. a year ago, maybe longer, I was building all these dirt pedals and wishing for more complex effects. There was the Little Bastard Chorus and the Zombii Chorus. I built both. The Zombii is still around somewhere and the Little Asshole Chorus has been demolished... twice.

    Now I have a CE-2 clone, a Pork Barrel, a Mini-Me (from guitarpcb.com), and a Synthrotech Chorus. In addition, I have a Clone Theory and a Small Clone started, AND I have a chorus circuit I'm trying to create from two other existing chorus circuits for a massive Freak Show Chorus, AND I'm trying to psych myself up to attempting the Dimension P Chorus (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94435 NOT my layout)...

    2014: Year of the Chorus.

    Indeed.

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    Replies
    1. The board will only end up around 57 x 82mm so should easily fit in a 125B if you mount the board upside down. I've seen a 21 x 29 board in a 1590B so this should be a piece of cake :o)

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    2. It's probably the fault of my big giant bear-paw hands (which is also why I had to delete and repost... Hulk SMASH...er...TYPE!).

      You'd probably cry if you saw how I had mine crammed in that 1590BB enclosure (it was originally wired for a 125B.. mu.. ha.. ha...). I console myself by claiming it's "artistic."

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    3. One of the easiest builds in 125B (Harald's one):

      http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/file/n6157/ce2_guts.jpg;cid=1404171213468-226

      http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/file/n6157/ce2.jpg;cid=1404171213468-226

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    4. Yep. The one I verified it with is in a 125b.

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    5. Yeah, well, I guess using those low profile 1/4" jacks drilled all the way to the top would make it easier.

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    6. Yep, you've convinced me to re-box it. I might be a bit of a bull in a china shop, but I know a good idea when I see one. Thanks for the pics, Javi.

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    7. You're welocome Heath :) You don't need either low profile jacks, a regular closed frame would do the trick too.

      J.

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    8. I took a LONG break from boxing (and I guess it shows)... I've been building circuits and then stashing them in little bags and boxes for when I felt like drilling aluminum enclosures, so now I have about 30 "keeper" circuits waiting to be boxed.

      I usually keep the low profile jacks around for 1590A builds, for when I'm feeling particularly masochistic, so luckily I had a couple available. I opted for these over the regular enclosed jacks for a little extra room since I'm feeling so rusty at this.

      I did manage to box a "RockMan" circuit in a 1590A (not a big deal for most as it's a small circuit, but for me and my banana fingers ANY 1590A project is an accomplishment) last night, so I'm starting to get get the "feel" back for planning this stuff out better.

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    9. I'm the same, I have loads of boards lying around that need boxing, but there is always something else to build or do. And anyone putting anything bigger than a buffer in a 1590A is a lot more patient than I am! Shame really because a chain of 1590A effects would be very useful for me.

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  5. Sorry Mark. I forgot to let you know...It's done and works great. It is in a 125b but has no battery clip....none of my builds have battery clips...I hate batterys!

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    Replies
    1. Fantastic, you are indeed on a verifying roll! :o)

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  6. You're on a roll Jeff

    You too Mark. Can't believe you nailed it first try with such a complex circuit

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  7. Plenty of room for both switches and a battery hook up (not used) in a 125b. Yes the enclosed jacks are a handy component. When the jacks and the 9v socket are put in line, as close to the top as possible, in front, AND the 3pdt is as far down as possible you can fit a 37x23 vero in a 125b WITH a battery hookup. I hate batterys and boxes that take up too much room!!
    I'm trying to keep up with Mark but it is not possible.......Thanks Mark.

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  8. Will any 12v zener work for D3?

    *sidebar - thank you IvIark for doing this layout. i didnt want to ask because you generally don't do these 4 chip layouts. i have an early 80's CE2 that i adore and am excited to have a diy version.*

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    Replies
    1. I'd probably use a 1/2W or even a 1W zener just to be on the safe side. They're all available cheaply enough.

      I said a while ago that when the to do list starts shrinking a bit I'd start doing the bigger circuits from time to time, but less frequently. I don't mind doing 4 IC layouts (or bigger), I just don't like doing layouts that end up needing a box which would be noticeably larger than the original simply because I use a rack tray, space is at a premium and if my layout was going to need a bigger box than the original, then I'd prefer to make it on a PCB to keep the dimensions down, or even use an original (not very often :o). For something like this though I'm happy if I can get the build in a 125B, otherwise I'd use a PCB for this too. In fact I've got a Pork Barrel in front of me.

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    2. Heehee :) I got a letter from Brian today and my Pork Barrel is otherwise finished, just waiting for BBD+clock to arrive. Also, i put the Lowrider together today too. It sounds mean :) Madbean boards are amazing work and quality. However, i don't like how the pots line up on the enclosure when using board mounted pots.. Lowrider is definitely something that isn't sane to draw up on a stripboard - it'll need 1590BB with the Madbean's two-sided PCB, and that's one packed board.

      For me - no. I won't be drawing these bigger ones anytime soon. I tend to become nervous wreck if i have an error on my layout, so CE-2 from me... No. I just don't want the pressure and the stress. The day i feel i can handle it... We'll see then. But hey. There are always Madbean's boards for the bigger designs. Sure they cost more than a slab of vero...
      +m

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  9. Built the Pork Barrel with the cool audio chips.

    It's not nearly as lush as the demo video. =(

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    Replies
    1. Hi Nick.
      What's a 'pork barrel'?
      jeff

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    2. http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3078710/Pork-Barrel.jpg

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    3. but forreelz: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/PorkBarrel/docs/PorkBarrel.pdf

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    4. Increase r39 to 33k or 47k instead of 4.7k.

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  10. Stereo daughterboard added

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  11. Is there a layout available for this pedal using mn3207 instead of mn3007?

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    Replies
    1. That would basically be a CE-3. I've done a slightly modded CE-3 layout but I wanted to change a few things before I post it, so I'll do that when I get chance.

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  12. Thanks a lot. Will be waiting for that post

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  13. hello any ideas about a MIX control extra function knob ?

    thank you

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    Replies
    1. Check out the CE-2B layout, the Effect Level pot is included with that pedal.

      Delete
  14. Hello,
    It is possible to put an JRC4559P instead of JRC4558 ?
    I can't find an JRC4558 in my electronic shop.
    Same thing with the 1S1588, What other diodes can I use ?
    Thanks

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  15. Can I change TL022 for something else?

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  16. I put it together seems right. But with cables connected vibe guitar sounds clean
    My voltages are: 6.5V Battery
    4558: 1: 3,3 2: 3,3 3: 3,3 4: 0
    8: 6,5 7: 3,3 6: 3,3 7: 3,3

    3101: 1: 6,5 2: 6,5 3: 0 4: 0
    8: 0,4 7: 4,5 6: 0,08 5: 6,5

    3007: 1: 6,5 2: 0 3: 0,6 4: 0,4
    8: 5,9 7: 5,9 6: 6,5 5: 0

    TL062: 1: 0,6 a 5,7 2: 3,2 3: V 4: 0
    8: 6,5 7: V 6: 1,8 5: 3,2

    Q1: c: 6,3 b: 0,6 e: 0,1
    Q2: c: 6,3 b: 1,1 e: 2,1
    Q3: c: 6,3 b: 0,7 e: 0,2
    Q4: c: 4,0 b: 0,6 e: 0
    Q5: c: 6,3 b: 1,5 a 3,1 e: 1,5 a 2,7

    Please heelp!

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    Replies
    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    2. Haistappa sinä Joaquin vittu.

      Why on earth would you run the circuit with with a battery that gives out 6.5 volts? I'm fairly certain the MN3007 will not work right with 6.5 volts.
      +m

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    3. Gracias ese no es el problema, sigue funcionando igual con 9v.
      La verdad no se que hice mal, suena la guitarra limpia cuando uno los cables de vibe solamente.
      La luz parpadea correctamente pero no funciona el efecto chorus

      Delete
    4. So you get vibe when the switch is in that position, but just clean signal on chorus setting? Is the switch ok? How about probing to see where the vibe side signal dies?

      By the way.. If people simply miss your comment and do not answer in two days, do you think "thanks for nothing" is good way to ask for help?
      +m

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    5. Me disculpo profundamente. No uso el footswitch. Simplemente uní los cables de Vibe y el sonido sale pero limpia. Uní los cables de intensidad y no suena nada.

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    6. Since the signal is going through, the issue has to be with the delay line (MN3007/MN3101) or the LFO (IC2/Q4/Q5). Could you check the voltages for these components with proper voltage from the supply and post them? If someone would notice something off with those.. I have not built this board myself, so i can't compare the voltages to anything.
      +m

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    7. Ok muchas gracias mirosol! Los voltajes son:
      Mn3007: 1: 8,8 8: 8,0
      2: 0 7: 8,0
      3: 0,9 6: 8,8
      4: 0,6 5: 0

      Mn3101: 1: 8,8 8: 0,6
      2: 8,8 7: 5,5
      3: 0 6: 0,5
      4: 0 5: 8,7

      Tl062: 1: 2,7 a 5,8 8: 8,8
      2: 4,2 7: 3,5 a 4,9
      3: 3,5 a 4,9 6: 4,08
      4: 0 5: 4,2

      Q4: c: 5,1 b: 0,6 e: 0

      Q5: c: 8,7 b: 2,6 a 3,1 e: 2,4 a 2,8

      Espero Que sea de fácil traducción, ya que soy de Argentina. Ya armé algunos vero y me funcionaron de esta página increíble. Espero alguien me ayude.

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    8. A alguien le sucedió lo mismo?

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    9. Es probable Que esté defectuoso el integrado, como he leído por ahí. Ya compré dos juegos de integrados y no funciona. Hay alguna forma de comprobar si un integrado no funciona?

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    10. It is likely to be defective Integrated, As he read somewhere? BUY TWO SETS Whether Integrated Works not. There a way to check if an Integrated Does not Work?

      Delete
  17. What does the 10k trimmer do and what should it be set to?

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    Replies
    1. It sets the reference voltage for the ICs. This is usually set with two resistors to give you half the supply voltage but they obviously thought that fine tuning could make the effect better and so included the trimmer to allow you to do that. The best position to start from would be dead centre because this will get you closer to exactly half the supply. Then tweak from there.

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  18. Okay..I've populated the board, wired up the necessities (ground, power, input and output) but I'm getting no signal passing at all. I measured the voltages at each IC's pins...anything look off?

    4558 - 1: -6.32V, 2: -6.35V, 3: -6.26V, 4: 0V, 5: 6.33V, 6: -6.33V, 7: -6.33V, 8: -12.52V

    TL022 - 1: -11.93V, 2: -6.31V, 3: -11.74V, 4: 0V, 5: -6.31V, 6: -0.07V, 7: -11.97V, 8: -12.57V

    MN3007 - 1: -12.58V, 2: -6.38V, 3: -5.52V, 4: -0.85V, 5: 0V, 6: -6.37V, 7: -5.12V, 8: -5.12V

    MN3101 - 1: -12.59V, 2: -6.36V, 3: 0V, 4: -6.39V, 5: -0.24V, 6: -11.52V, 7: -3.44V, 8: -0.84V

    I'll double check my connections to make sure I don't have any bridges...

    Thanks,
    -Ryan

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    Replies
    1. Nevermind, found an image with the correct voltages. Gonna try a different power supply...hope I didn't fry anything with the 12V...

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  19. And done! And with it's new owner (built it for my guitar teacher's birthday) http://i.imgur.com/fxSw5f6.jpg (no gut shots since it ain't pretty)

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  20. And just in case anyone was curious...you can get faster or slower speeds by playing around with the 100n on the bottom of the layout. I put one on a switch with two other caps in parallel on the other side to give me about 80n, and it gave a nice boost into pseudo-Leslie territory. Higher value = slower. Lower value = faster.

    Also...this pedal can flange. Speed on minimum, depth on maximum...nice swirly flanging tones...

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  21. Just wondering...any idea how I could lessen/eliminate the ticking I'm getting with the effect on...?

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  22. Hi, need some help.

    All controls seem to work but I'm getting a distorted tone and weak chorus. The trimmer has a very small window of usable adjustment, just a bit off either side of dead center.

    I've swapped all transistors and ICs. No change,

    Here are my voltage readings with regulated 9.13V

    IC1 4558
    1-4.54
    2-4.54
    3-4.54
    4-0.0
    5-4.54
    6-4.54
    7-4.54
    8-8.84

    IC2 TL022
    1-varies 3.1-5.8
    2-4.54
    3-varies 3.8-5.1
    4-0.0
    5-4.54
    6-4.55-4.58
    7-varies 3.9-5.1
    8-8.84

    IC3 MN3007
    1-8.84
    2-4.56-4.57
    3-3.80-3.82
    4-0.59
    5-0.0
    6-4.54
    7-3.54-3.56
    8-3.54-3.56

    IC4
    1-8.84
    2-4.53
    3-0.0
    4-4.56-4.57
    5-0.33-0.35
    6-7.76-7.80
    7-2.92-3.0
    8-0.56

    Q1 2N5088
    C-8.84
    B-3.95
    E-3.52

    Q2 2N5088
    C-8.84
    B-4.35
    E-3.8

    Q3 2N5088
    C-8.84
    B-3.99
    E-3.53

    Q4 2N5088
    C-7.38-7.46
    B-0.41
    E-0

    Q5 2N5088
    C-8.84
    B-3.92-4.28
    E-3.35-3.86

    Frustrated as I can't find a bridge or component out of place.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Finally added an audio probe to my Test Box 2. Cool device, don't know why I put it off for so long.

      Troubleshooting the distortion:

      I have a clean signal on MN3007 pin 3, but distortion on pins 7 & 8.

      If I remove Q3 or the MN3101, I get a clean output, but no Chorus of course.

      Same issue with 3 different MN3007s and 2 MN3101s. Not sure where to go next.

      If I pick lightly, no distortion. Could this be a headroom issue?

      Delete
    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    3. FWIW powering this pedal with 15V took care of both of those issues. The chorus came alive, sounding much better and the distortion is gone.

      Unfortunately, I just noticed a faint thumping in the background, not a ticking, sounds more like a faint heartbeat but definitely timed with the LFO. It may have been there all along and I just didn't notice. I'm using shielded wire from input jack to vero to switch to output jack. This noise happens with both 15V and 9Vs.

      1st experience with this type of noise, not sure where to look. The audio probe picks up the ticking if the lead gets anywhere near the board. Haven't had luck isolating the heartbeat.

      Need some help

      Delete
    4. Solved! Increased the VB filtering, changed 47u to 100u and added a 470n in parallel just because. I think the 100u did the trick on it's own,

      Pedal sounds much cleaner and livelier with 15V supply.

      I also added a speed mod by replacing the 100n with a 56n, and added a DPDT on-off-on switch lugs 2 & 5 in parallel with the 56n cap. Added a 47n on lugs 1 & 4 and a 22n on lugs 3 & 6. Down position is "slow" at about 100n, middle position is "fast" at 56n and top is in between at about 78n.

      Thanks for the excellent layout!

      Delete
    5. I just built another one and even though I used a 100uf for the VB filtering, this one has the thumping too! I also have both pots and switches wired with shielded wire.

      Has anybody else experienced and resolved this thumping?

      The thumping is timed with the rate control, not a ticking noise, sounds more like a heartbeat or thumping.

      Powered with either 9V/15V same issue.

      Delete
  23. Hi I recently finished building the CE-2 , only to find it is not functioning , When I activate to pedal, I get low level Audio that is very muffled, I have checked the placement of parts, checked soldering and touched up some of the solders joints, I have replaced the IC's as well as the transistors, But every time I test it after I have checked something, I still get the same muffled audio.

    Any ideas would be great.

    Peter

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    Replies
    1. I have also checked voltages, soldering, any bridges, found all to be ok, but still no joy.

      Peter

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    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    3. My Voltages

      IC1 4558

      1 6.13v
      2 6.13v
      3 6.13v
      4 0v
      5 6.13v
      6 6.13v
      7 6.13v
      8 9.35v


      IC2 TL022

      1 varies
      2 4.68v
      3 varies
      4 0v
      5 4.67v
      6 4.67v
      7 varies
      8 9.35

      IC3 MN3007

      1 9.22v
      2 4.8v
      3 5.31v
      4 0.62v
      5 0v
      6 4.78v
      7 5.3v
      8 5.3v

      IC4 MN3101

      1 9.22v
      2 4.7v
      3 0v
      4 4.78v
      5 0.36v
      6 8.1v
      7 2.9v
      8 0.62v

      All Q's are 2N5088

      Q1 c, 9.3v b, 5.26v e 4.88v
      Q2 c, 9.3v b, 5.86v e, 5.33v
      Q3 c, 9.3v b, 5.43v e, 5.01v
      Q4 c, 9.25v b, 4.5 ish varies e, 4.5 ish varies
      Q5 c, 7.6v b, 0.4v e, 0v

      My power supplies is 9.35v

      Peter

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    4. I am having the same issue as Peter, I just get a dropped signal when engaged. Adjusting the trimmer boosted the signal slightly.

      Joe

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  24. Doing my first build with this design bass version. What components can I change to accept line level from synth rather than guitar so I don't clip the signal ? I think the 1m resistor should be 10k and the input cap 47n may be 4.7uf but am not sure and was hoping some more knowledgeable builders could confirm the values. Also would 15v give cleaner sound rather than 9v. Thanks Tom

    ReplyDelete
  25. Thanks for sharing, nice post!
    Máy đưa võng hay thiet bi dua vong tu dong đang ngày càng “được lòng” nhiều bậc phụ huynh bởi tính năng ưu việt của vong em be tu dong cùng sự tiện ích của vong tu dong. Những lợi ích mà may dua vong mang lại là vô cùng thiết thực. An Thái Sơn luôn cung cấp sản phẩm máy đưa võng hay vong ru tu dong cho be chất lượng nhất TP.HCM, tự hào là địa chỉ bán may dua vong tu dong gia re cho trẻ em.
    Chia sẽ các bạn những cách giúp trẻ nhanh biết đi hay bí quyết giúp trẻ nhanh biết đi, bí quyết làm thế nào để cho bé đi ngủ sớm hay những món ăn giảm cân cho trẻ béo phì, bí quyết giúp trẻ hết biếng ăn hiệu quả, trị chứng mất ngủ ở trẻ em hiệu quả, bí quyết cải thiện làn da cho bé hiệu quả, bí quyết giúp bé ngủ ngon giấc hay những cách chế biến đông trùng hạ thảo nguyên con, chia sẻ cách chữa trị bệnh rụng tóc ở trẻ em hiệu quả, những cách chống nắng cho bé hiệu quả hay thực phẩm giúp giải độc gan cho bạn, thực phẩm giúp nhanh liền sẹo hiệu quả, phòng trị bệnh viêm khớp ở trẻ em an toàn, những thực phẩm bổ não cho trẻ cải thiện trí nhớ, những thực phẩm không nên ăn khi thiếu máu não bạn nên lưu ý, chia sẻ thực phẩm cho người bị rối loạn tiền đình hoặc món ăn chữa bệnh mất ngủ hiệu quả
    Cách chăm sóc da mặt bằng http://cachchamsocdamatbang.blogspot.com/
    Dạy trẻ sơ sinh tại http://daytresosinh.blogspot.com/
    Bí quyết giảm cân hay tại http://biquyetgiamcanhay.blogspot.com/

    ReplyDelete
  26. On the layout, some of the links have a white dot, what does that represent?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. that means they're a double link.

      basically instead of a normal link, which goes between two points, a double link makes multiple connections. so in reality you're really making multiple links that equate to a single link.

      Delete
    2. Thanks... Also if not wanting the intensity switch, do you just omit the 100p cap and wiring for it?

      Delete
  27. I've built another of these, and this one has the same thumping noise I had with my previous build. I increased the VB filter cap from 47u to 100u on the last build and the noise went away. Didn't help on this one.

    I'm using the "original" layout.

    Has anybody else experience and resolved this thumping noise?

    ReplyDelete
  28. yep go to the forum and check out my boss ce-2 ticking post . Frank put a mod fix for the lfo. the ticking/thumping is caused buy the voltage drain when the lfo changes from square to triangle wave on the flip flop its a draw spike causing it. the seperate voltage divider will work i have verified his layout. i tried your fix and it didnt help. also i did shield the rate pot inputs and outputs this helped some but not enough before the fix.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Fantastic!

      Thank you for sharing and thanks for reminding me of the open chat forum here!

      Can't wait to give this a try. Will post results in the forum next Sunday.

      Delete
  29. I would like to verify the stereo mod does work and sounds wonderful. Thanks IVIARK your the man!

    ReplyDelete
  30. I'm having a hard time determining what the depth increase mod is that the Pork Barrel has. Is it the 47uF cap that is from DEPTH-1 to GND?

    ReplyDelete
  31. Hello to all
    I built the pedal but there seems no difference between the pedal on and off ..
    I probably wrong wiring 3PDT. you could suggest a pattern for the button switch?
    The two switches are spdt 2 pin?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Does this diagram help?

      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

      Or this one?

      http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/StandardWiring_MBP.pdf

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    2. is a diagram that provides for the connection of the two switches as for this chorus?

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    3. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    4. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  32. sorry but my computer flickers ...
    The two switches are on / on or on / off?
    thanks

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  33. What type switches are you using? SPST or SPDT?

    SPST (2 lugs) = on/off
    SPDT (3 lugs) = on/on but you don't use lug 3 so it acts like SPST on/off




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  34. i used a 2 lugs switch.
    but does not work .. the wiring on the board should be ok . maybe in wiring and jacks 3PDT , ground .. I do not know . the signal is unchanged whether the pedal is on or off ... may depend on what ?

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  35. I have just finished building this but am getting no delayed signal so if the vibe switch is open I get no signal, with it closed I hear the unaffected signal. I have noticed that the current draw is very high - about 60mA. Having removed the ICs and replaced each in turn the offending one seems to be the mn3007 but I have tried 4 different ones from 2 different suppliers so don't think it likely that they are all faulty. Voltages are as follows (with the mn3007 removed)
    IC4
    1 - 8.35v
    2 - 4.27v
    3 - 0v
    4 - 4.28v
    5 - 0.25v
    6 - 7.5v
    7 - 2.8v
    8 - 0.56v
    IC3
    1 - 8.57v
    2 - 4.3v
    3 - 3.5v
    4 - 0.56v
    5 - 0v
    6 - 4.2v
    7 - 8.3v
    8 - 8.3v

    The only change I have made is to use 2n3904 instead of 2n5088 form the transistors.

    Any help would be very much appreciated as this is driving me mad.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! I've got the EXACT same problem as you: no signal at all and just the unaffected signal if i turn on the vibe switch. (i've built the last diagram, the 'original' ce-2) Did you find a fix? anyone?

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    2. Many apologies for not spotting your comment earlier - turned out in my case that it was problems with the MN3007 - even though I had tried 3 different suppliers! I eventually bought 2 from a US supplier who stated that they were hand tested and it worked perfectly first time once I adjusted the trimmer.

      Delete
    3. I'm afraid Alex (down further in the thread) may have the same issue.

      Dave, do you recall not having any signal with the 'bad' mn3007 but then it would pass sound with the new one?

      Also, did your voltages increase with the good one?

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    4. There was no signal at all downstream of the mn3007, I did take voltages before the change but not afterwards and I don't have the original voltages now so not sure if they changed - to be honest though I think I only measured voltages without the ICS in place as I was worried about doing further damage as the mn3007 was getting quite hot.

      Delete
  36. How would I add an LED for the 'original' circuit at the bottom?

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  37. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  38. Which 12V Zener would you suggest?

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  39. Having a bit of an issue with this one, bypasses as normal, when engaged the signal stays the same (just the clean sound, no chorus), when i flick the vibrato switch on it cuts the signal completely, which leads me to believe its something within the "chorus part of the circuit" if that makes any sense because the vibrato is just chorus without the clean signal. The led lights up and flashed with the rate, i also notice if i use the dirty channel on my amp i get a pulsing noise according to how the rate is set which i guess is normal for this kind of circuit?

    Its as if everything is working fine, apart from the actual chorus part! Ive checked for slder bridges and misplaced components and cant see anything wrong. Any ideas??

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Alex,
      I believe your assumptions are correct based on the symptoms.

      Post the IC voltages, that may give us a better clue.

      Also, do you have an audio probe?

      And last, I had built a couple of these and they had the same LFO noise (ticking). I believe there is a verified fix in the forum...if memory serves, you should be able to modify the existing layout to implement the fix.

      Delete
  40. Hi,

    Thanks for your reply, ill post the voltages tonight when i get home...

    I dont have an audio probe unfortunately, what would i use it for in this instance??

    Thanks
    Alex

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  41. Ok, so here goes...ive tried to be specific as possible, it it normal that on some the voltages change slightly? Ie they go up and down within a certain range??

    IC1
    1-3.47
    2-3.46
    3-3.45
    4-0.00
    5-3.46
    6-3.46
    7-3.48
    8-7.11

    IC2
    1-cycles through a range between 1.7 & 5.5 in accordance with the speed?
    2-3.47
    3-cycles through a range between 2.5 & 4.1
    4-0.00
    5-3.47
    6-2.52
    7-cycles through a range of 2.3 & 4.3
    8-7.1

    IC3
    1-7.1
    2-3.84
    3-2.1
    4-1.58
    5-0.00
    6-3.13
    7-1.1
    8-1.1

    IC4
    1-7.1
    2-3.13
    3-0.00
    4-3.83
    5-0.2-0.3
    6-6.2
    7-2.4
    8-1.62

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You may have a couple of things going on.

      1st, if you have sound with the vibe switch closed, and then no sound with the switch open, then the "wet" signal is being lost somewhere as you suspected. Could be at Q2, Q3, IC3 or anywhere in between. An audio probe would help you find it fairly quickly. If you make one (very easy to do, check youtube), I'll walk you through the troubleshooting process.

      2nd. The supply voltage looks very low, and voltage on IC3 pins 7&8 IC3 look low. But that might be because the supply voltage is so low.

      Post the voltage you read on the top and bottom of the 33R. You might want to double check the value of that resistor too.

      BTW, once you use an audio probe, you'll wonder how you got along without one! They are perfect for this type of issue. It will also help you find out exactly where the LFO pulsing noise is entering the signal path.

      Do you have a 12v adapter?

      And which layout did you build?

      Mike

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  42. Thanks for your help, ive got a week off work this week so I'll have time to really look into it. I do have a 12v adaptor and i built the first layout "with mods"...will sort the audio probe and get back to you on the other questions...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I haven't built that layout, just the original, I'll look it over today.

      Its interesting Dave (Dec 30) and Robert (July 13) seemed to have the same issue.

      The readings on both sides of the 33R will tell us if yours is also drawing to much current.

      But hang in there, we should be able to spot the issues with the audio probe.

      And once that is all sorted out, then you might want to try powering with 12v. Mine sounded much better with 12v supply, but I would hold off on that for now. Let's get the sound passing first.

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    2. My problem was actually that al the MN3007s I had bought (from 3 different suppliers) were defective - bought 2 from a US supplier that were described as hand tested and these worked perfectly.

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    3. Thanks Dave, I suspect Alex may have the same issue with the mn3007 as he has the same issues you described and it looks like a large voltage drop across the 33R. Once he confirms that resistor value and the voltage drop, I'll ask him to pull the 3007 and take the voltage readings again. My guess is the 3007 is damaged or fake causing both symptoms.

      Alex, here is a quick way to make an audio probe if needed. https://youtu.be/jWvIfDSxbIk

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    4. Hi Guys,

      Apologies for the delay on replying to this, I appreciate all the help, i've not had a chance to go over it yet but will do ASAP.

      Delete
  43. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  44. oh but i did get a chance to measure the 33r, 9v at the top, ~6.5v at the bottom.

    I did buy a pack of 5 mn3007, tried swapping it out, didn't change anything. they may well all be duds.

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    Replies
    1. Can you share the supplier's name?

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  45. Wow, that's a huge current draw. 2.5v/33r=75ma.

    Pull the MN3007 and take those same readings again.

    If you get something in the mid 8v range at the bottom of the 33R, chances are your MN3007's are at fault.

    If the voltage is still low, pull the other ICs one at a time taking the same readings. At some point, the voltage should jump up into the mid 8v range

    FYI I purchased most of my MN3007 from a US Ebay seller http://www.ebay.com/usr/t*r*e*e*?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 and from Australia http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php
    but they both appear to be out of stock.

    You might want to contact both of them to see if they have any available offline.

    Not necessarily a recommendation, but I did roll the dice once and bought 3 pairs MN3007/MN3101 from ebayer Polida2008, and they did work.

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    Replies
    1. Just some seller from China, i'll find the user name if I can, they were like 10 for £4 or something. So i guess they are fake or faulty as you say, I didn't realise that was even a thing!

      I'm just going to buy a good one and see if it solves the problem, I also have the "ultimate tester kit" coming from fuzz dogs pedal parts which has an audio probe as part of it so i'll be able to trouble shoot better after i've built that.

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    2. And yes, as you said, with the mn3007 pulled i was getting 8.2/8.3v at the bottom of the 33r

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  46. Pedal is working now, got a new MN3007 from a UK source (was not cheap) and its working perfect. Now I just need to find a better source for more of them as i don't want to pay that every time i need one!

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    Replies
    1. Can you said me your IC's voltage values with a 9V source or battery? My circuit doesn´t sound but it sounds on bypass.

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  47. Excellent!

    Did the LFO ticking/whoosh noise go away?

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  48. Hello, I'm trying to make stereo chorus mod, but it doesn´t sound. Led + has 0.56V and it doesn´t light. I don´t understand how is the connection of A wire with the dpdt or spdt switch and neither I know if the trimmer is ok. What are the good voltages of IC pins with 9V? Help please!

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  49. Hi Guy`s, I am thinking off making the original Boss ce-2 , but don't want to put the vibe switch in. Must I put The switch in to complete the circuit or is it optional yes!

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  50. Does this circuit is checked ?. I have built with the mod stereo and only noise heard on that part. I would like to start it again but I need to know if anyone has gotten it to work. Regards.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don't know of anyone building it. The stereo portion was derived from the way it was implemented in the CE-3 so there may be some issue which is why I mentioned it should be considered experimental for the tweakers until someone verifies. I will check the circuit over to see if anything jumps out, so put it to one side for the time being and I'll let you know if I find any issues.

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    2. Actually I tell a lie, Strassercaster verified it above and said it worked well. Could you post some high res pics of your board and give us the links, and tell us the voltages you're getting at the IC pins

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  51. 2 things on this as i decided to build a tricked out version with the spst's on footswitches.

    Can someone please post a link to strassercasters ticking fix thread as i cannot find it anywhere. Would like to solve the ticking issue.

    2nd is that ive added in the stereo daughterboard, but ive noticed if i connect output 2 but the pedal is off, signal only runs to output 1 (ie mono) until i turn the pedal on, then it runs full stereo.

    Is this normal? I assumed in bypass the 2 outputs would just split the signal??

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That is how mine works and I believe that is correct operation. When the footswitch is in bypass mode both ce-2 circuit and daughter board connected to output 2 are removed from the audio path. Signal path is reduced to source input to footswitch to output 1. It appears that stereo mode does not extend itself to clean bypassed signal.

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  52. Completed this yesterday, layout with mods and stereo module and it works perfectly. Had 2N5088's in there at at first then swapped them out for 2SC945's as per original circuit, didn't notice any difference. Stereo module works! Wanted to fit this into a 125B but with the stereo daughterboard, extra jack and option for battery I had to settle on 125BB, worth it though, it sounds so good! Thanks for the layout!

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