Friday 20 June 2014

Oddfellow Effects Caveman Drive

This looks kind of familiar.  Let me think about it .....  Oddfellow Effects Caveman Drive ...
No just can't remember, it will come to me.

OK I nicked that joke from Dr Boogey on FSB, and thanks to him for the trace.
One thing I must say is that in this vid it sounds a lot better than the OCD V4 that I used to own.

Info about the original:

The Caveman Drive is an extremely transparent overdrive that has an amazingly versatile range of sounds! This pedal nails every sound from full distorted tones to softer overdrive.The one thing about the caveman that amazes players is the dynamics. They are simply amazing. Not only is the caveman drive one of the best sounding drives on the market, it is the best feeling. The Caveman is one of very few pedals on the market that actually feels and reacts like a cranked tube amp. Go from screaming distortion to sweet, smooth, overdrive with no volume loss by simply lowering your guitar’s volume knob. Perfect for all styles of playing! The controls are volume, tone, drive and a brilliant fixed volume and gain boost which is just enough to give you that push for a solo.






Posted by at 12:00
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72 comments:

  1. Piltdown Man20 June 2014 at 13:13

    Can the boost switch be a DPDT? I don't have any DPST's. Can the terminals be bridged to make it act like a single throw?

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    Replies
    1. IvIark20 June 2014 at 13:23

      Yes no problem, I think most people would use DPDT and just use one of the throws, but I just mentioned the DPST because they can be used if someone has them

      Delete
    2. Piltdown Man20 June 2014 at 13:27

      Gotcha, thanks

      Delete
  2. Bohemian H20 June 2014 at 13:26

    "The Caveman is one of very few pedals on the market that actually feels and reacts like a cranked tube amp," said every overdrive pedal blurb ever.

    ReplyDelete
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    1. IvIark20 June 2014 at 13:39

      Ha ha, I thought exactly the same thing! By marketing blurb there isn't a single overdrive on the planet that isn't amp-like. Hey that may be a gap in the market ...
      "The new IvIark One Overdrive - sounds nothing like an amp ...... unless you plug it in an amp"

      Delete
    2. zedsnotdead20 June 2014 at 14:22

      LOL!!!!
      Yes, I was really curios to know what this o.d. was all about. It was reasonably priced at the start (about 140$). But so much hyped around it, I just thought it must be a variation of something well known. Well...here it is....

      Delete
    3. Bohemian H23 June 2014 at 06:26

      "Plug this new OD into your Tube Amp for genuine SOLID STATE sound! Tired of unpredictable break up, natural distortion, warm tones, and vintage sound? The new S.S. Tubegone will get you there! A truly ONE OF A KIND Over Drive pedal so unique, we prefer calling it a call it a Auto Drive pedal!"

      Delete
  3. Jesse20 June 2014 at 16:35

    I was just watching a video of this pedal and the next page I clicked on was here and...

    It definitely sounds good, but I have so many other pedals in the queue.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Unknown20 June 2014 at 19:33

    Anyone have a schematic? I was just wondering what values are different from the OCD?

    ReplyDelete
  5. joedoc20 June 2014 at 19:38

    I'll second that request for the schematic - I'd like to have a peek :)

    ReplyDelete
  6. Dr. Iggy21 June 2014 at 04:25

    Go ahead and tag it. Nice sounding dirt pedal. I don't have an OCD to compare it too. But it does sound very good.

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  7. Unknown11 July 2014 at 18:13

    sorry to ask but do you think you could help me with wiring up the boost switch using a dpdt switch. thanks!

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    Replies
    1. IvIark11 July 2014 at 18:40

      The switch is like this:

      1----4
      2----5
      3----6

      Sw1 and 2 connected to the board as shown
      Sw4 to LED cathode > LED anode > 2K2 resistor > 9V
      Sw5 to ground

      Delete
  8. Unknown2 September 2014 at 22:42

    Which part of the circuit is the boost?

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    Replies
    1. IvIark2 September 2014 at 23:11

      The Boost switch removes or inserts the 20K resistor into circuit, very similar to the HP/LP switch in the OCD

      Delete
  9. Unknown22 September 2014 at 03:14

    Thanks, gonna try this one

    ReplyDelete
  10. Unknown1 October 2014 at 19:45

    2 more questions,
    1.I have a Carling SPDT footswitch, came out of a wah, 2 posts on the left, one on right, what goes where for boost wiring?
    2. Would any germanium diode work?
    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  11. Unknown2 October 2014 at 21:15

    Disregard the questions, worked it myself :)

    Great sounding OD, even through my VIP 2 !!
    I used a 1n34a diode which I think sounds really good, it's socketed so I can experiment later.
    Also figured out the boost switch, Sw1 goes to single lug and Sw2 goes to both lugs on the other side.
    I also socketed the 20K resistor, gonna try to tame a little treble in boost mode
    Thanks for a great web site and the hard work you put into bringing these circuits to the masses!
    Next up is the Sucker Punch!

    ReplyDelete
  12. monkay7 November 2014 at 14:16

    Sorry if this is a stupid question but what are the 2 x 220p's?

    ReplyDelete
  13. Unknown10 November 2014 at 14:49

    I built this a couple months ago, been using live ever since, however, the boost is not to my liking, way too much and too trebly.
    While lurking on the site this morning I came across this circuit, BMP tone stack with LPB1 boost, I wondered if having this wired in place of the 20k resistor would act as a controllable boost?

    ReplyDelete
  14. monkay10 November 2014 at 19:29

    Hi, my mate wants me to build this pedal for him!! I have successfully managed a couple of kits before but never ordered components myself!! If i was to write out a shopping list of bits I need would someone be kind enough to make sure I have it correct and complete??

    Thanks in advance

    Steve

    ReplyDelete
  15. monkay10 November 2014 at 19:47

    This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  16. monkay10 November 2014 at 19:57

    Resistors

    5 x 10k
    1 x 13k
    1 x 20k
    2 x 150k
    1 x 100R
    1 x 470k
    1 x 2.2k
    1 x 18k
    1 x 1M

    Capacitors

    3 x 10u
    1 x 100n
    1 x 68n
    1 x 1n
    1 x 22n
    1 x 47n

    Transistors

    2 x 2N7000

    Diode
    1 x Schottky, BAT85, 1N60P

    IC
    1 x TL082

    Pots
    1 x 1M log
    1 x 10k Lin
    1 x 500k

    Would all resistors be metal film?
    What type of caps should I get?
    What type of transistors should I get?

    Any other advice or information that would be of help would be very much appreciated!!

    Thanks

    Steve

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Zach11 November 2014 at 02:20

      depending on where you live, and how long you are willing to wait for parts, you can get everything you need from tayda electronics for cheap, but it can take awhile for it to get to you, or i would suggest smallbear. smallbear has amazing service, the parts are reasonably priced, owned and run by a guy who's really part of the DIY community, the only problem is that shipping can be expensive, but it goes out USPS priority. all there parts are top quality too.

      Delete
    2. monkay11 November 2014 at 12:43

      Hi just looked on small bear! I am in the process of ordering with them. I can't seem to find the IC TL082 or the Diode Schottky, BAT85, 1N60P. Is there something else on small bear i could get instead do you know, that will do the same job?

      Many Thanks

      Steve

      Delete
  17. monkay10 November 2014 at 21:42

    Are these caps the sort to buy??

    http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/25SEP10M/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvR1wrj203KOKNYKQR8GUMBsnFOFtKhqtc%3d

    ReplyDelete
  18. Unknown11 November 2014 at 00:55

    Monday, resistors are 1% metal film, caps are film, except the 3 10u's, those are electrolytics.
    Try mammoth.com , they will have everything you need to build this circuit in a very easy to navigate format.
    Search for 2n7000, it will show in the correct tranny type
    For the pots, just remember lin=B and log=A

    ReplyDelete
  19. Joel Van Ginkel16 November 2014 at 03:56

    I made one of these for myself and then two for friends as well. GREAT pedal. Then I took some of the ideas from the Freekish Blues Alpha Drive thread and applied them to this. I put the 330k reisistor on the Gain and the Volume resistor as well and put them on this and I love the results. I didn't like the tone resistor from the Alpha Drive on this circuit. Anyway it has become the best dirt pedal I've ever had. I'll make a demo video soon.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Joel Van Ginkel20 November 2014 at 03:58

      Here's a demo video of my caveman and a modified version as I described above. I used the vero layout from this site for both of these pedals and then added the resistors to the modded one.
      http://youtu.be/oMJ0roKVLZg

      Delete
    2. IvIark20 November 2014 at 09:34

      Sounds great Joel

      Delete
    3. Joel Van Ginkel20 November 2014 at 17:34

      Thanks for the compliment, it was your idea in the alpha drive post that got me to try this.

      Delete
  20. monkay29 November 2014 at 21:17

    Hi, I have just finished the main circuit board but am really struggling to understand how to wire it to the off board bits!! Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated! Is there any visual diagrams out there?!

    Any help would really be appreciated as this is only my second build!

    Thanks

    Steve

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    Replies
    1. monkay29 November 2014 at 21:57

      Hi Mirosol, thanks for the link. Stupid question but I'm guessing I need to follow the switchable boost diagram?

      Delete
    2. mirosol29 November 2014 at 22:33

      No. You use 2PDT stomp for the boost. Follow the notes on the layout. Switch lug numbers shown here: http://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes_other/pots_switches.png

      Boost switch lugs 3 and 6 not connected. Lug 5 to ground and boost LED cathode to lug 4.
      +m

      Delete
    3. monkay29 November 2014 at 23:00

      ok thanks!

      Delete
    4. monkay29 November 2014 at 23:44

      Hi, so do I wire the od switch as normal single switch?!

      Delete
    5. mirosol1 December 2014 at 20:56

      Yes. Single effect true bypass.
      +m

      Delete
  21. monkay1 December 2014 at 01:05

    Is there anyway I can use a 3pdt switch?

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    Replies
    1. monkay1 December 2014 at 13:39

      For the boost if so how would I wire that in?

      Delete
    2. Zach1 December 2014 at 18:28

      Take a look at the offboard wiring get tab. There are different wiring setups for normal wiring, adding a switchable boost, multiple effects in the same enclosure, etc.

      Delete
    3. mirosol1 December 2014 at 20:48

      Johns! No! Does not apply to this conversation.

      Monkay:
      You can use 3PDT, just leave lugs 7, 8 and 9 unconnected.
      +m

      Delete
  22. monkay1 December 2014 at 22:24

    Cool! Thanks all for your help and advice!!!!😀

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. mirosol1 December 2014 at 23:15

      No worries mate! Just be sure to test the board before fastening everything to the enclosure :)
      If you need to debug the build, it will be a lot easier without the box.
      +m

      Delete
  23. monkay2 December 2014 at 00:33

    ok, completed the build and looks good!! Plugged it in. The LED's light up and it would make a good volume cut off switch!! LOL!!

    Ok, so, when i have the switches off i get me clean sound through my amp, no effect which is good!!! When a switch the OD I get no sound at all!!! When I switch the boost I just get my normal clean (no effect). Any ideas???

    Thanks

    Steve

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. monkay2 December 2014 at 00:36

      Oh, when the OD and boost is on I get nothing as well!! They do say silence is golden!!! I disagree!!! In this instance, silence sucks ass!!!!

      Delete
    2. mirosol2 December 2014 at 08:51

      Could be a number of things. At first, run a hobby knife or similar sharp blade between all the rows. If there's a tiny solder bridge between the strips, you'll find it. Then double check that all the cuts are good.

      The next thing for you would be to measure voltages on the IC pins. Set the meter for DC voltage, meter's common to board grounds and VohmA lead to IC pins one by one. You should be getting ~4,5V (give or take 1-20%) on pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and 7. Pin 4 should be zero and on pin 8 you should have the supply voltage.
      Oh. And the pin numbering goes as follows:
      1--o--8
      2------7
      3------6
      4------5

      If those don't yield results, then construct an audio probe as discribed here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html
      With that you'll be able to hear where the signal dies.

      Don't get frustrated yet - the debugging part is a crucial thing to learn. Even the best builders do it often. :)
      +m

      Delete
    3. monkay2 December 2014 at 22:50

      Thanks mirosol, will look into it!! Not getting frustrated!! I quite enjoy problem solving!! `I refuse to be beaten by a component filled block of aluminum!! I will resistor (oh dear!! thats terrible, I'll get my coat) the temptation to strip it back and start again!!!!

      Delete
  24. monkay15 December 2014 at 10:34

    Right, I decided to start again and give it another go!! This is probably going to sound like a really daft question but I believe in my last attempt at this build, failed due to me wiring the board to the off board parts!! When looking at the wiring diagram for the OD switch it says that lug 7 needs to go to output on the circuit but on the strip board layout above there is no output??

    Any help or can anyone point me in the right direction?

    Thanks

    Steve

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. dexxyy15 December 2014 at 10:59

      In the notes below the layout volume 2 to output, volume 2 is wired to lug 7

      Delete
    2. monkay15 December 2014 at 11:58

      Ah ok!! Thanks

      Delete
  25. monkay17 December 2014 at 17:52

    Right still having problems!! :( Is there anyway I can post a photo so you guys can see how I have wired it up!! I honestly believe that the problem is to do with the wiring of the off board bits!!!

    Would really appreciate some help!! Im sure its a major schoolboy error!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. mirosol18 December 2014 at 08:41

      Try google drive sharing or one of the free image hosting sites...
      +m

      Delete
  26. monkay20 December 2014 at 14:48

    Hi, Could somebody please clarify something for me? Where the wire is labeled sw1 and sw2 does this correspond to The lugs on both switches i.e. Lug1 and lug2 on both switches or does it correspond to switch number i.e OD = sw1 and Boost = sw2.

    Many thanks

    Steve

    ReplyDelete
  27. monkay6 January 2015 at 19:40

    or not!!! HaHa!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. mirosol6 January 2015 at 20:02

      Completely missed the earlier question. There is only boost switch connections on the layout.
      +m

      Delete
    2. monkay6 January 2015 at 20:14

      No problem!! Ah! Ok! That may answer a few questions!! LOL!! Also could you point me in the direction of a diagram to wire a single true bypass switch as there appears to be several different ways to do it!! Also, if there is any diagrams to wire the in/out jack sockets that would be much appreciated too!!! Thanks again mirosol!! You are a true legend!!!

      Delete
    3. mirosol6 January 2015 at 22:01

      This one shows you the actual pins on the jacks:
      http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_3pdt_tb_gi_dcj.pdf
      Even though the switch poles are used in different manner than on this:
      http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k5Sh68yVU18/TzGRFKbiALI/AAAAAAAAAlk/CbfaaduUjYQ/s1600/!Offboard+wiring.png
      The switching is basically the same. There are three individual poles...
      +m

      Delete
    4. monkay6 January 2015 at 23:02

      Thanks!! I think I may well have spotted a few things that I have done wrong!! I will check it out tomorrow!

      Thanks again Mirosol it is very much appreciated.

      Delete
    5. monkay9 January 2015 at 20:11

      Hi Mirosol, just thought id let you know I got the pedal to work!! One of the transistor sockets was faulty!! My mate had a look at it yesterday and was amazed at how great it sounded and wants me to build him another one! Just wanted to say thanks to you and the rest of you guys on here for your help and advice!!

      Im sure I will be hassling some of you again for advice in the future!!

      Thanks again

      Steve

      Delete
    6. mirosol9 January 2015 at 20:25

      No worries mate! The learning curve may seem steep at the beginning, but this ain't exactly a rocket science... You'll get a hang of it.
      +m

      Delete
  28. Unknown20 January 2015 at 00:54

    New Caveman Drive with adjustable boost and order switching being released!

    ReplyDelete
  29. Unknown1 August 2016 at 01:59

    What would cause the tone to be brightest when the volume is at 10, then start to filter off highs as the volume is reduced, even if the tone is at 10?

    ReplyDelete
  30. Piotr Kuzemczak29 September 2016 at 21:34

    Any chance for the schematics? I built an OCD from DIY kit some time ago, wanna try this one without making new board&box. Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  31. Piotr Kuzemczak29 September 2016 at 21:34

    Any chance for the schematics? I built an OCD from DIY kit some time ago, wanna try this one without making new board&box. Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  32. Unknown17 January 2017 at 21:48

    Hi there ! Planing to make this one, but I just want to know wich cap/resistor I should modify to have more high mids in the tone the 47nf connected to tone 1 ?)
    Thank you guys !

    ReplyDelete
  33. Unknown16 January 2020 at 12:06

    Which is the 20K resistor that is the boost? What resistor can I use in order to lower the boost level by half?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Unknown17 January 2020 at 07:42

      No matter, I just found out my unit came in with a trimpot just fot that purpose - to control the boost. Great!

      Delete

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