The Reverberation Machine is a synthetic atmosphere creator. Use the effect on any instrument to add depth and simulate different environments. Experiment and combine a variety of settings to obtain the perfect ambiance for your sound.
The controls on this pedal are straightforward. Volume, Altitude, Reverb Blend and two distinct reverb flavors: Bright Sunshine and Dark Star. Altitude adjusts the gain structure of the reverb and the clean simultaneously creating exciting new reverberation soundscapes that span from subtle to wild.
Although the controls are extremely easy to use and intuitive, there is a vast array of sounds. Everything from simulations of vintage amp verb, playing in a cave, large concert halls, and space ships being sucked into wormholes.
UPDATE! Test values between 0 & 10K for R1 to improve Bright Sunshine side.
Can anyone suggest a source for the TLC27M4ALN ? It appears to be a standard quad op-amp - maybe a TLO could replace it ?
ReplyDeleteI wonder if it is supposed to be a TLC27M4AiN at any rate I think the suffix just determines the package it comes in. I found the AiN at mouser.
DeleteYou're right - the table is here :
Deletehttp://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlc27m9.pdf
In the UK , available at Farnell and RS
TLC274CN worked great.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI love those Knobs guys. Weird stuff demoed on the most original and trippiest way. I was going to go for the Wampler faux spring reverb, but I've just started loosing my interest on it... :S
ReplyDeleteit is funny what those guys at death by audio can come up with and still wearing straitjackets all of them.
ReplyDeletepsycho stuff every time :P
well done Alex!!
It's a great day whenever someone posts a DBA layout.
ReplyDeleteI just could find TLC274CP/TLC274CN... (Banzai/Tayda)
ReplyDeleteAlex, you're on a roll. Jesus, I have parts for 10 pedals waiting in my drawer and you keep posting these great layouts here. Cannot wait to get my hands on this weird junky reverb!
ReplyDeleteI just ordered the tlc27m4ain from mouser so hopefully I'll be able to put this together in a week or so. Is there any reason a BTDR-1 wouldn't work as long as I account for the pinout being different?
ReplyDeleteWhy are some verified and unverified? Shouldn't the person who uploaded the tagboard have already verified it? Lol sorry if the answer is obvious, I'm just curious...
ReplyDeletehey man. to answer your question that's not way the community works, as we all work to help verify the layouts. there are two different places you'll find layouts; here on the main page, and in the contributions section of forum. on the main page only the admins (IVIark, Miro, alex, javi, travis, and myself) can post layouts, in the contributions section anyone can post layouts. so as we get request someone will create a layout, and who ever is interested in that effect can build it to help verify it, and if it doesn't work first shot help figure out how to get it working.
DeleteOh I see, that's pretty cool. I'm for sure looking to contribute. I already did some layouts that worked (catalinbread naga viper and an em-drive). I'll definitely post about the builds as soon as possible. Looking forward to helping out anyway I can. Thanks for the response!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteSorry posted in someone elses reply Doh!
ReplyDeleteChips are available from RS UK and there not expensive. I ordered 5 for £3.47 and free next day delivery so i have them already. Nice one RS!
Nice! Hope you can verify it by the time my parts arrive! (Not that I mind building an unverified layout)
DeleteHey guys,
ReplyDeleteGreat work again on this layout!
I'm just wondering what gain c1m is meant to be?
Thanks Nico!
DeleteIt's a 1M Reversed Pot.
Ah nice 😀
ReplyDeleteThank you
Have one of these - GEAT reverb. I also love the gain on this box. So loose/grainy... Sometimes I'll turn the verb all the way off and just use the gain. Have been wishing I could just isolate the post-reverb gain section and build me a box of just that. What are the odds I'm not alone? I could build it... I'm just not sure what parts to isolate (or if it can be done at all). Anyone?
ReplyDeleteYou could always make this a 6 pot pedal, (like the micro pog mod). That way you could have 2 different switchable presets: one with a "normal"reverb and the other with only the gain, (or whatever knob configuration you prefer). That´s what I´m planning to do ;)
DeleteThis is great. Would it be too much trouble to post a drawing/schematic/layout/instructions on how exactly to implement the double-knobs? I would love to be able to switch between a super drenched verb and a more tame and glittery sound. I've owned a RM for a long time, this is up there with my all-time favorite effects pedals. DBA really nailed this one, but expanding its utility would be even better.
DeleteWell, this is the micro pog mod: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3REflIQHxAc/U30p-uZHhdI/AAAAAAAAHbQ/guYYzpbA3Yw/s1600/Micro+POG+Dual+Control.png
DeleteI´ve made a picture of what probably is the dirtiest written by hand diagram in the world, but I think is understandable: http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah171/Thrashtop/2df22e70-de69-4dc0-ab94-45b2c1c186a0_zps5ybuiozo.jpg~original
I´ve used right-side pole to switch between 2 different leds.
Another interesting mod could be conecting the dark/bright switch to a 3dpt stompswitch, with a 2 colours led, so we could know where we are.
If some layout master could take a look at it, that would be great, cause I´ve got the impression that some signal could be sucked by lugs 1 of non selected blend/volume pots, since they go straight to ground...
Cheers, Gilberto
Layout/Circuit master, trapiak and I summon you! (pretty please?!) =)
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
Delete(Edited)
DeleteI didn´t build it yet, but I´ve been checking the diagram and came up with an alternative way to do it:
Blend pots: (It goes to the left side switch pole)
Throw a lead from the center lug of A Blend pot to the switch top lug, and connect another lead from the center lug of B Blend pot to the switch bottom lug. Then throw a lead from BLEND2, (board), to the center switch lug. Finally throw a lead from A/B Blend pots left lugs to btdr 6.
Gain pots: If the original diagram wiring is not working, we could try the following:
(This one goes to the switch pole that´s placed just at the right side of the previously used pole)
Connect GAIN2, (board), to the center lug of the switch. Then connect the top switch lug to A Gain pot center lug, and connect the bottom switch lug to B Gain pot center lug. Then connect both A/B Gain pots right lugs to GAIN1, (board).
Volume pots: I think they´re fine.
I´m pretty sure that this will work, (fingers crossed...)
Anyone restes this out yet?
DeleteCount this as verified. As far as i can tell it sounds just like the demo with maybe a wee bit of noise but its unboxed at the moment so i reckon that will tame it. Really nice reverb.
ReplyDeleteHmm.. just looking on the RS site for Ireland and they only have the TLC27M4ACN, is that the one you used? Looking at the data sheet, the only difference is in the temperature operating range though so unless you're planning on recording in a deep freeze the chips should be good...
DeleteThanks Gavin!
DeleteAnybody tried swapping out the TLC27M4 for an LM324 or a TL074 yet?
ReplyDeleteTried both plus the TL084, works with all, I settled with the Tl074, I think it's less bass heavy than the Tl084, the Lm324 seems to be a bit more crackly using humbuckers, I'm going to order the proper TLC27m4 just to see if it's better but mine sounds very like the one in the video above.
DeleteIs there a high current draw for this circuit? Just wondering if I could get away with using a 78L05 in place of the LM7805?
ReplyDeleteHi, I'm newbie to building guitar effects. What is OGI on the board? I can't find it anywhere.
ReplyDeleteThat's the pinout of the voltage regulator O-regulated voltage out G-ground I-voltage in (9V)
DeleteCould you please point me to a schematic of this circuit?
ReplyDeleteYou'll find the schematic here:
Deletehttp://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26874
Thank You!
DeleteAny idea how this would work in an effects loop?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI was wondering how you guys deal with the reverb brick inside the pedal.
ReplyDeleteDo you make the connections from the board to the brick pins and just leave it around or use any kind of shocket/daughterboard?
Cheers, Gilberto.
I cut an IC socket in half with side cutters and soldered that to a small piece of vero/stripboard. That way I can replace or remove the brick without soldering. Works fine.
DeleteThat's a great idea! I wouldn't have thought an IC socket would be the right size for the pins of a Belton. I'll have to try this. Great way to not feel committed to a reverb build if it's not your cup of tea.
DeleteI had a similar idea but didn´t know if the brick pins would fit in those dip sip shockets.
ReplyDeleteThank you very much
I just finished this but am not getting the gain sounds from it. I couldn't find the TLC27M4ALN so I used a TLC274ACN instead. When I turn up the gain knob I get a lot more bass but hardly any more gain. Do you guys think this would be because I used the TLC274ACN or did I screw something else up? Everything else seems to be working as it should.
ReplyDeleteI did some research and the tlc274 dont appear as a direct replacement to the tlc27m, however, both data sheets presents same pin order. Maybe check the 470pf cap that´s on the gain2(board) row. It bypasses the gain pot and is always sending IC output signal to the feedback loop, (gain1 row).
DeleteTake a look at what´s happening inside the red circle on this diagram:
http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah171/Thrashtop/dba-RM%20red%20circle_zpsirqaqvyp.png
That´s the whole gain pot path.
Thanks for the help! I socketed a TL074 and a LM324 and got similar results with both. I don't know what exactly to look for when checking op amps so I am not sure if these are suitable replacements either. Do you think that putting in the TLC27M4ALN would solve my issues or would i most likely still have the same results I have been getting?
DeleteIf you look at this picture http://circuits.datasheetdir.com/37/TLC274A-pinout.jpg you will see a labeled pin TLC274. The circuit uses 2in+ 2in- out2 for the gain network, (you can see it above the red circle at the previous diagram as U2).
DeleteSo take a look at the vero layout ad realize that IC 2out goes to vol2 through a 220 cap, and also straight to gain2 which sends the signal back to 2in- through gain1 row.
My advice would be checking all the gain network, (gain1/gain2 rows and gain pot), and all the components involved.
I also used TLC274CN from tayda. It is an awesome reverb, but I also expected more dirt from it. Also one side of the switch gives a really big reverb while the other side doesn't reverb that much.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHey guys. A quick question on the switch wiring for this one (for the DPDT). Does it go left to right & up to down:
ReplyDelete12
34
56
or up to down & left to right?
14
25
36
Thanks in advance
On the layouts are always
ReplyDelete1 4
2 5
3 6
I used the TLC274CN from Tayda and it seems to be working perfectly. Nice reverb! Thanks for the sweet layout!
ReplyDeleteHi guys ! Hot project here !
ReplyDeleteBut am I the only one wondering where the SPDT switch (dark/bright on the original) is connected to the vero ?
Hey! What kind of caps are the yellow ones? Mustards?
ReplyDeleteThank you! Looking forward to build it.
Hi there!
ReplyDeleteSounds awesome! but the only problem I have is that there seems to be a delay between the dry signal and the wet signal?
Thanks!
hey im having the same problem, any solutions to this?
DeleteAnd it only seems to be on the bright sunshine setting, as i turn up the gain knob it gets very distorted and delayed very quickly
ReplyDeleteI finally got mine together with some bugs. The volume seems to go zero to near full in a short turn (it is audio taper) and the gain pot at full up cuts out the signal. I'm also getting some static noise.
ReplyDeleteOk I just had some incorrect wiring. There is a lot of static noise present though.
DeleteNot that it has anything to do with my problem but why is the volume pot wired different than usual? It's creating sort of an odd volume sweep, shouldn't pins 2 and 3 be swapped?
Okay problem solved i had the tiniest track
ReplyDeleteNext issue is that the reverb is quite tame, it has quite a short tail even at full.
Help appreciated!
So... I'm the only one who's bothered by the fact that the SPDT switch for Bright/Dark is missing ?
ReplyDeleteI think you're just the only one that doesn't see the switch xD
DeleteOMFG !! I see ONE DPDT switch, that has his 6 pins connected to the board... But somehow I thought it was the (not so) true bypass of the effect pedal. The fact that you just insisted on the only switch visible made me rethink...
DeleteThanks a lot Travis. Now I can start that awesome project.
Will come back for more as soon as I get the time to work on it ^^
I want to add the dwell mod daughterboard to make it kind of DBA Ty Segall "Sunshine Reverberation".
ReplyDeletehttp://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/BOHreverb/Box_of_Hall_-_With_Dwell_V2.png
I was wondering where to place the feedback loop path here. My guess is taking the direct output of the belton brick and sending it straight to the belton input through the dwell daughterboard/pot, right?
I finally built one with the double control mod and without the dwell mod, (maybe later).
ReplyDeletehttp://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah171/Thrashtop/IMAG0436_zpsuw3mhi7t.jpg
http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah171/Thrashtop/IMAG0438_zpstlrz0jn7.jpg
I found the "Altitude" knob brings up the gain all the way up at the first 25% of its run. It does pretty much nothing from there.
The pot is a C1M.
Should I try lin/logs or a lower value should work better?
Cheers, Gilberto.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI built this last night, seems to work fine and sound similar enough to the original unit, however, as soon as I turn the blend knob up anywhere past a third, it becomes awfully noisy and with the blend at full, there is a ridiculous amount of noise. Anybody had a similar issue? Solutions?
ReplyDeleteGuys, perhaps a newbie question. Built this and its not working. I started following the signal path with an audio probe, and every time I get to a 1m resistor i get no sound on the other side of it....i checked the resistor with a multi meter and there is continuity across them. but for some reason the audio signal will not cross...any ideas on this?
ReplyDeleteI've tried to build this circuit and am pulling hair out!! I can't get it to work. I have more than triple checked my connections with a continuity meter and placement of my components. All my cuts are fine and connections are solid.
ReplyDeleteI have followed the off board wiring from this website and am getting sound through when it is bypassed but when the effect is switched on there is no sound at all. The LED works as it should so power and signal and getting to it but no sound is coming out when on.
I used all the values as stated, and used a TLC27M4AIN chip (I know the circuit say TLC27M4ALN but reading through the first few comments I know other have used what I used and it works)
Any ideas? Someone put me out of my misery I have been trouble shooting for nearly 2 days :O
If you've gone thru everything. Cut the gaps. Checked voltages on ic's. Checked parts before putting on board and you can't find the problem and you've spent two days troubleshooting. I would say build another board. It takes a few hrs to build a board. I've only had a few boards not work that I've gone over with a fine tooth. Sometimes it happens. It's not worth it to debug
DeleteFinished it, dark star works great but bright sunshine gives me a very subtle reverb only when the blend pot is dimed. I wish I would have payed more attention before boxing it up.
ReplyDeleteWith the pots at max and the bright sunshine switch voltages are:
78L05:
I: 8.35
G:0
O: 4.92
TLC27M4ALN
1: 4.24
2: 4.24
3: 2.85
4: 8.35
5: 2.65
6: 3.5
7: 4.13
8: 0
9: 6.2 (fluctuates, highest reading)
10: 0
11: 0
12: 2.85
13: 4.15
14: 4.15
BDTR-2
1: 4.93
2: 0
3: 0
4: 0
5: 0.03
6: 0
Tried it out with a TL064 as well with the same results, no voltages though. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm having the same issue as this. The dark channel has massive spacey reverb but the bright side's reverb is almost non-existent. Did you find a solution yet?
DeleteCheers!
To all who have problems, please check everything.
ReplyDeleteThis pedal works perfectly on every pot(max and min).
Here is my build! Really interesting monster hehe
https://hgecontraptions.blogspot.ro/2016/09/death-by-audio-reverberation-machine.html
Hey guys ! Thanks for your remarks on that "bright side" lack of reverb issue. I don't feel that alone anymore. Mine is not boxed yet (a friend is colouring it :D) but I managed to test the build and wasn't sure if that lack of reverb was coming from the breadboard itself or my "testing rig", which I was testing ^^ Would it be useful to insert a 10k trimmer instead of R1 ?
ReplyDeleteOther question, this time to those who already boxed theirs : does the LM7805 heat up a lot ? Couldn't test the project very long so not too sure... Razvan S. I browsed your link, saw your gutshots and realized you didn't put any heatsink on yours. Not necessary ?
Tested a 10k instead (no trimmer) of the 100k resistor : works like a charm !! A lot of headroom/space/echo (whatever you call the reverb effect in your sound :D) gained on the "bright side".
DeleteAnd my LM7805 doesn't heat up, so I guess I'll be good without a heatsink ;)
Hi when you say tested 10k instead of 100k, do you mean r1 which was between 0 and 10k? or do you mean you replaced a 100k with 10k, if so where? I can't find a happy medium have tried 1.5k 1.8k 870r and others, but the bright side sounds pretty average still? any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteHello everyone, just a short question for those who've built and played with this one. Does it cut some of the highs of the clean signal when you turn it on? With my build it does and I was wondering if it's normal. By the way, connecting pin 5 of the brick with pin 3 via a 47n-100n cap and a C100k potentiometer(as a variable resistor)in series, makes a nice decay control.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteIt cut some highs and boost the lows to my ears.
DeleteIt works nice on a fender twin, but is just too much for my el34 amp.
I guess that something could be done changing some caps at the dry path
Hello DIY friends !
ReplyDeleteI've a question about the reverb' module : can we use the new Belton BTDR-3 module ?
http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/images/File/BTDR-3%20DIGI-LOG%20REVERB%20MODULE.pdf
And add two pots (or dual one) for tuning the reverb depth (decay) ?
Unfortunately No, I do not believe so.
DeleteThat module (#3) is completely different.
I've used both. Besides a different pin sequence, I believe it's the modulation that is adjustable in the #3 module that makes it different. I do know from other builds that the two are not interchangeable.
I'm no expert so if I'm incorrect hopefully one of the experts will set us straight.
Damn, as there was no answers, I just ordered and received the module :(
ReplyDeleteI'll try with it and come back to let you know what append...
I believe the biggest difference is in the pins.
DeleteCheck some of the other builds that use both the "2" version and the "3" version and you should be able to identify where to wire what pin.
Other builds have certainly been adapted for use with either of the modules so I know it's possible.
Good Luck!!! and I am sorry it took me so long to give you my opinion the first time.
I'll check it out ;)
DeleteHey guys,
ReplyDeleteI'm currently building this thing which seems to sound awesome.
Is it me who is blind or dumb, I can't find where to connect pin 5 of the belton brick? Should it be jumpered with pin 6?
Hello !
DeleteIn the BTDR-2, the 5 is the Output 2 and 6 is the Output 1.
As the Rev' Machine use only one Output of the brick, it's okay :)
Fo info, the BTDR-3 works the same way, so I think I'll be fine to use this module.
I'll come back when my project will be finished :)
Ok that's great! Thanks a lot for the answer! I dis read before about the output 1&2 but didn't know I could just squeeze one of them!
DeleteI'm Getting less reverb on the bright channel (on that there is a nice small reverb but no quack/repeat) the dark channel is close. but both channels seem less bright.
ReplyDeleteIve tred a 10k and a 1ohm resistor in R1 position and although a bit brasher/brighter the reverb length is stil small on the bright channel.
Can anyone make any suggestion?
thanks,
Matt.
Has anyone adressed the issue with the lack of reverb on the bright channel?
ReplyDeletePlease let me know.
Anything may help.
Matt.
Hey there !
ReplyDeleteMy 'verb is finished, and I can say it works perfectly with BTDR-3 brick.
For the decay pot, just wire it like the Rub a Dub Reverb Deluxe :)
I just notice that the volume is very subtil, and this pedal has a little breath (I dont know if this is correct in english)
About R1, I put a 10K trimer, and after test I can say the lower R1 is, the shimmer the bright mod reverb is.
@Mattfode : I don't notice any lacke of reverb with the bright channel...
Check all the composants again, in particular on the the capacitors, I made some missplacing on two of them (second 220nF on the left, 10nF at the center), so the reverb doesn't sing at first try ^^
Keep going !
So...I finally managed to get a working pedal after severaaal tries :)
ReplyDeleteThere is one thing troubling me though, there is a sort of pre-delay/latency when I play it. I've checked solder bridges, wiring, components placement, etc...so far everything is like the initial drawing.
Anyone would have a clue to where to give a closer look?
Unfortunately, I have the same. I have built one and then rebuilt another. Everything seems to be working, but especially the bright mode gives more of a slapback echo.
DeleteIf you strum softly/slowly, it's not noticable. And only on the higher verb settings. The demo's are hard to judge, cause no one picks hard.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI built the board some weeks ago, just waiting on some hardware to arrive. I should have mine built in a few weeks, we'll see how it works out!
ReplyDeleteMy build with decay control and oscillation switch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZ2aj73HYxk&feature=youtu.be
ReplyDeleteWell done, nice demo.
DeleteWhat features/substitutions did you build into your pedal that's not in the layout here. What value did you have in the place of R1?
DeleteI used 4k7 resistor and added a decay pot from pin 3 and 5 of belton
DeleteGreat thanks. How did you build the oscillation switch, does that just take something out of the circuit, can you point me in the right direction for this information? I think that was a great feature!
DeleteFor the decay pot and momentray switch,iIt's an easy mod, you actually make a feedback path between the output on pin 5 of the Belton brick back to the input pin 3. You connect these pins via a 47n/100n capacitor (the bigger the capacitor the more bass goes into the feedback signal) and a C100k pot wired as a variable resistor. This can be a decay pot. If you don't want the decay pot and just want the momentary feedback switch, make the same feedback path and put a 100k trimmer instead of the potentiometer. Now the connection should go like this: Belton brick pin 5 -> capacitor -> 100k trimmer(as a variable resistor) -> momentary switch pin 1. From the momentary pin 2, another cable to pin 3 of the brick. So when you press the switch you connect these pins together (via the RC network) and you get feedback. How much feedback, is controlled by the 100k trimmer. You can get from instant oscillations to more subtle extra decay. This effect is more intense on the bright reverb mode of the pedal.
DeleteBrilliant, thanks for the help. I really loved how this mod enhanced the effect. I just built this layout into a 125B. Rather than re-work it I think I'll get another Belton brick and build another into a 1590B with the decay pot and momentary switch. Thanks again Marcello, this is really helpful!
DeleteI mean 1590BB
DeleteI'm a little confused about how to hook up the trim pot. Which pins do I use? I have the square blue one with the offset pins. Thanks!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteCompleted this using 10K resistor at R1 and TLC274CN from Tayda. Sounds just like the demos, brilliant! Thanks for the layout!
ReplyDeleteHere is a picture of mine: http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/Chance_N_Sarah/media/Pedals/DBA%20Reverb%20Machine%201_zpsqstk9poy.jpg.html
ReplyDeleteHey guys ive having some trouble with my build if someone could help.
ReplyDeleteEverything seems to work fine except the Gain knob, when its maxed out its clean sounding and full normal bypassed guitar sound (reverb works fine with it), but when you turn the gain knob down it just drops in volume and cuts all the lows from the signal so it sounds super trebly and quiet. Does anyone know what i should look for to fix this?
The only things i did different to this build were i used a 1N4007 instead of a 1N4001, used a TLC27M4AIN instead of the TLC27M4ALN, a LM78I05 instead of an LM7805, and a Linear 1M Pot instead of the C1M Pot..
Also i get a slight high pitched squealing sometimes when the reverb is maxed out, i thought maybe it could be cause i was testing this with alligator clips and everything being open so maybe when its all soldered up together properly it hopefully wont, but if not is that another issue someone knows how to fix?
Thank you
I got this fixed up dont worry, sounds great! Loving this.
DeleteJust finished my build and I'm really pleased with it. I have an original so I've been able to compare the two. Pretty sure everything I used was exactly as specified. I also added a decay control and oscillation foot switch. Thanks to Marcello M for his clear instruction. This was my third tagboard build all successful so far!
ReplyDeleteI socketed R1 so I could try a few different resistors I started out with a 4.7K and there was very little discernible difference between the dark/bright channels. Kept lowering until I ended up just linking the two sockets. Still not quite as bright as my original but not far off at all. And I kind of prefer it.
Will post some photos and a demo if anyone is interested. Thanks for all yr help everyone who contributed to this thread.
Stef
I'm a little confused about how to hook up the trim pot. Which pins do I use? I have the square blue one with the offset pins. Thanks!
DeleteI think there might be an error on the vero (and the schematic from freestompboxes: http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26874).
ReplyDeleteLooking at the gut shots, the chip reads A**i**N, not A**L**N. The letters are all capitalized. This looks like an I (capital i), not an L. (http://i.imgur.com/gqHtrn3.jpg)
(This would matter because the TLC27M4AIN is easy to find. If there is such a thing as an A**L**N, they are not exactly easy to find.)
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI just built this and it's not working very well. Any help would be appreciated. It works fine in bypass mode. When engaged and with all knobs full up, you can barely hear the effect. On top of that there is a rhythmic thumping. Used all parts called for in the layout minus the TLC27M4ALN. I could only find the TLC27M4AIN. Here's some voltages.
ReplyDelete78L05:
I: 8.26
G: 0
O: 4.97
TLC27M4ALN
1: 4.15
2: 4.13
3: 3.93
4: 8.26
5: 3.92
6: 4.12
7: 4.12
8: 0
9: .24
10: 0
11: 0
12: 3.92
13: 4.12
14: 4.12
BDTR-2H
1: 4.97
2: 0
3: 0
4: 0
5: 0.04
6: 0
Cut between lines to make sure I didn't have any unwanted connections, as well as where the cuts are. As far as I can tell, the components appear to all be functioning. If anyone dealt with a similar issue, maybe that would point me in the right direction. I'm thinking I'll have to make an audio probe and give that a shot and if all else fails, I can rebuild it. Just trying to save it. Seems like I'm close, but just can't find the issue. Thanks for any help!
Judging by the (lack of) voltages on pins 2 to 6 on your brick, there's a dodgy connection grounding the signal.
DeleteAnthony, thanks for the help. I'll take another look.
DeleteI have this exact same issue! Did you ever find that caused it?
DeleteHello I've built this many months ago and it sounds great, not exactly like the original because the gain knob doesn't bring much crazy fuzzy distortion but I'm ok with that. What I 'd like to change is the dry signal to be a bit less muddy, when the pedal is engaged I've got some treble loss (and perhaps some bass boost) on my dry signal.. Do you have any recommendations about what parts to adjust, based on the schematic so it can sustain the original sound as when bypassed? Thanks in advance!!
ReplyDeleteDon't bother with the 470pf cap that's across the Gain pot. It brightens up the fuzz considerably.
DeleteThanks for the answer! So should I try to change that 470p cap or do you think it won't improve it the way I want?
DeleteWon't this brighten up the blended sound? I mean both the dry and the wet signal?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI built this pedal and it worked but with less reverb on the bright channel -so I tried swapping the resistor as recommended and was a bit better.
But now although most of the pedal works as normal there is little/No reverb.
I tried a new brick and a new chip and there is no change, so before I spend a fortune is there anything else I should try?
Could the voltage regulator be the issue?
I know very little about electronics so any help or suggestions at all would be great.
Post your voltages, Matt. I’ll check them against mine.
DeleteBuilt with original chip, used a 56r for R1.. I found the bright side had delay between reverbed sound as others mentioned if it was much over 560r. I think I may try the B1M for gain, it's a great effect.
ReplyDeleteIS there a way i can boost mid frequencies in the decay?
ReplyDeleteHi guys, I made an AB test with an original one and found out that my clone has a sort of gap, step or very small delay before the reverb starts. Don't know how to explain better...
ReplyDeleteI am playing it and I can of like it but would like to understand what is going on with my build :)
hi guys! does anybody know how to realize trails mod on this pedal?
ReplyDeleteWhat's the best way to connect row 5 to pins 2 & 4 on the brick? Put brick on it's own vero and jumper rows 2 and 4?
ReplyDeleteIs the voltge regulator a 5v or 9v? It seems like it should be 5v since it's going into the reverb brick pin 1 which is labeled +5v. Any advice is appreciated!
ReplyDeleteLuke
hey luke. if you look on the top of the layout above the regulator it says "lm7805" which is a 5V regulator.
DeleteThank you Zach! I guess it should’ve been obvious but I wasn’t looking up there! Cheers!
Deleteno prob bro. alex sometimes posts what active components are right above or next to the component on the end of the board, so if you're used to the way the others do it where we put in on the bottom in the notes it's easy to miss.
DeleteHey Zach, I finished this pedal today. Bypass works and one side of the pedal works. When I flip the DPDT, it cuts out the reverb and acts only as a booster with no hint of reverb whatsoever. Got any tips? Thanks!
DeleteAlso, I believe it's the dark star side that's working
DeleteCheck and knife youre strips man. If thats happening id check all links, cuts and strips. Knife your rows. Most likely common cause of problems.
DeleteThank you! I had missed just one cut. Sliced it up real quick and now both sides work. Thank you thank you!!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteFind the Best Rosin Press Machine for You depending on your budget, demand & requirement ! We offer a variety of products with our honest reviews.
ReplyDeleterosin press machine
Hello guys, i want to build this one. Does it works correctly and the layout is correct and verified ?? Thx a lot !
ReplyDeleteYes it's verified, you can always see that in the tags!
Deleteit works perfectly for me, thank you very much Alex and evreybody !!! I used a 1k to enhance the bright side and now it's very very bright and that's i was looking for.
ReplyDeleteis there a way to have classical schematics? and did someone try to make it stereo out?
ReplyDeleteit is probably a very basic question but I've not much knowledge about how circuits work: What does the parallel 470p/1M do in the dry path? I've not seen this in other circuits.
ReplyDeleteTo anyone thinking of building this, I used 1k resistor for R1 and it is horribly bright for me. A nasty piercing treble. I'm going to try higher values and report back
ReplyDeleteI used a 10k and it sounds waayyy better
Deleteyes 1k is really high pitched/harsh/noisy ahah
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteWhere does pin 5 from the reverb brick go?
ReplyDeleteNever mind it worked perfect. I used a 10k for r1 and a tl074 for the chip
ReplyDeleteHi ! Mine works fine too !
ReplyDeleteHow can i get it more fuzzier ?
By adding a resistor in serie with the triangle pot ? Change the chip ? Other modification ? Thks !
Hi guys. After spending many hours tracing the high res photos of the pedal posted by tabbycat here http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&p=254853#p254853 and having already build the pedal using our layout here, i came up with a couple of differences/adds to the schematic provided by tabbycat. I have to say first that my build sounded too bassy in the dark setting, too trebly in the bright one, the tone between these 2 settings was much different, too much boosting in dark setting etc, plus a huge predelay due to a mistake of mine at the very beggining (didn't use the 6k8..!! which caused that delay to the sound and a big gap when engaging the pedal). So my conclusions: 1) in the pics between gain and vol pot you can clearly see a 101 capacitor which in the schematic appears as 470p. After tracing the circuit i found that IC1 pin6 in addition to schematic connects to a junction of R20 10k (and from here to c14 and then GND), gain pot lug1 and c13 100p. After c13, to gain pot lug2 and also to R21 68k which the other end connects to juction of IC1 pin7, R22 and c15. Huge improvement in gain pot control and it doesn't adds anymore gain to low gain pot settings. 2) Add a 100k (to GND) to IC1 pin14. I didn't hear much of a difference, but it's there in the real one.
ReplyDeleteMy pedal now (which i forgot to say that i used a TL074, while expecting my TLC27M4AIN to arrive) sounds to close to the real thing. The only difference is that in R1 of our layout here i used a 10k resistor but in the real one it is for sure 100k. But when i used that 100k the reverb effect in the bright setting was too thin. In addition with the 10k the effect sounds alive but there is a very little distortion to the notes when hitting hard with the gain pot all the way off, which i believe in the real one it does not exist. Please check yourselves and let me know what you hear!
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThanks for sharing your findings - any chance of adding them to the schematic? I couldn't make sense of it alongside the schem from Glass Hero at http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&p=254853#p254853
DeleteAnthony Barratt, i will add the changes to the scheme. Just give me a couple of days to find some time ok?
DeleteI have built two of these using the acid etch trace from tagboardeffects, on both the sweep on the Vol and Gain is almost non existent, goes from nothing to on, pots are correct value and wired correctly, no bridges that I can see and all values of parts seem correct. I used the TLC27M4AIN. Help!!!
DeleteThat would be great, Unknown - thanks!
DeletePlix Tixiplik... perhaps check the resistor values are correct around those pots... not sure what else to suggest if the pots are the correct value and taper. It does sound like you have a bridge but it's unlikely the exact problem would be on both builds. There should be nothing wrong with the TLC27M4AIN but you could try a TL074 in there, just to rule that out. Hope you get it sorted.
ReplyDeleteHi again, Anthony, i posted the schematic i owed you in the debugging site of the forum!
ReplyDeleteThanks maragosspiros! There's a new layout by Alex here:
Deletehttp://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/dba-reverberation-machine-corrected-schematic-td44924.html
Verified against a DBA Reverberation Machine.
-Anthony
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi Reverberation Machine Masters ! I'm new on this forum, hi ! to you all. I received a DBA Reverberation Machine for my last birthday (lucky me !)
ReplyDeleteI really like it, but I'd like to mod it so it can really become my main reverb.
1/ the pre-delay is too long, and un-adjustable.
Is it possible to mod the pedal so it can be controlled, adding a knob for example ?
2/ I hear a lot of modulation / chorus-like in the reverb.
Is it possible to control the amount of modulation ? Maybe it's just how it is inside the brick ?
Thank you all for your help, as I said, I really like the feel of this pedal, but I just need it to be a little more flexible... THANK YOU !!
Hi odieux fonzie,
DeleteI know it's been a long since your post but i just saw this.
Is your dba a genuine or a clone one? It's kind of weird if it's genuine and has much pre delay...anyway, check the following. Pin5 of your IC is connected to three resistors. A couple of 1M's and one 6k8. Chech that last one, and increase it a bit until your predelay is gone. With factory value though, it's shouldn't be any pre delay.
As for the modulation there's nothing much you can do to control the amount of it. If your brick is the 2 series, that's it, factory fixed. You can control it though, by replacing it with the 3 series.
Finally i would appreciate if you could send me a couple of hi res pictures of the guts of your pedal, both sides. I still have some things to check on it! My email is maragosspiros@hotmail.com.
Thank you in advance
Check my post in the forum/debugging and you'll understand better the reason i need those pics!
DeleteThanks man
Hey guys and gals, question:
ReplyDeleteI have an original DBA RM, but it’s just sooo dark. Not only does it boost a lot of bass when engaged, but it also totally muddies the mids and loses some treble.
Do any of you have an idea what resistor and value etc I might want to change, to bring back some upper mids and treble?
Thanks in advance! x
-Mark
OY boys, I just started getting into building reverbs so I haven't really worked with belton bricks.
ReplyDeleteIs there a way to kill the dry signal? preferrably with a footswitch sorta like the JPTR FX kaleidoscope.
Built it and sounds grerat. Only that it produces very noticable noise with power supply. I triend many different ones but all have some level of nasty powersupply noise that is not present on other pedal I have. With battery its silent. Is this just me or are others having similar problems?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteIs there a reason why the new schematic from Alex (posted on Freestompbox) isn't posted here?
ReplyDeleteI meant this one on guitar-fx-layouts: http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/file/n44991/D.png
DeleteHere you can find the whole thread: http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/dba-reverberation-machine-corrected-schematic-td44924.html
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi everyone, I need help troubleshooting. I built this while ago and couldnt work out what was wrong with it. Sometimes id get get reverb depending which way the bright switch was and the volume was either all or nothing and the blend doesnt really work either. Ive followed the troubleshooting and checked the component placement / cuts / strips and wiring and it seems to be okay as it should (obs not as it would work!)
ReplyDeleteI used a TL074CN as i read this was okay and ive got the following voltages.
1 = 4.21
2 = 4.21
3 = 2.81
4 = 8.42
5 = 2.81
6 = 3.47
7 = 4.22
8 = 0
9 = 0.02
10 = 0
11 = 0
12 = 2.81
13 = 4.22
14 = 4.22
BTDR2-H
1 = 4.99
2 = 0
3 = 0
4 = 0
5 = 0.008-0.02 (fluctuates)
6 = 0
Im surprised im still getting reverb despite a lot of 0V on the pins of the reverb brick but then i know nothing about electronics.
Any advice would be great or any ideas to check.
Thanks guys hopefully we can get this working its a killer pedal
Hey Andres, this layout is not correct it seems. Alex has posted a new one in the Debugging forum. I think it's better to do build that
DeleteTruly love it. Will add an expression out jack for feedback/oscillation control and make it EPIC.
ReplyDeleteThis is great, but I had to build it twice - first the layout posted here. Didn't get it to work, dark side was muddy and no reverb. Did a lot of debugging, audio probed it but no luck.
ReplyDeleteThen I read all the comments and found the debugging forum... and rebuilt it using the layout posted there - now it works! Great effect, but you should update the top of this page with a link to the updated version i Alex' post: http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/dba-reverberation-machine-corrected-schematic-td44924.html#a44991 (it's easy to miss)
Hello. Belton BTDR-2H Reverb Modules (LONG) - can I use (MEDIUM)? Is it just a size?
ReplyDeleteYou can, but it will sound different. The long/medium indicates reverb length.
DeleteBe sure to use the corrected layout that I posted about above, I couldn't get the original to work properly. The updated works fine!
thank you. i will try to find long
DeleteChange R1 to a 100K trimmer to give more distortion
ReplyDeletewhat is the "OGI"?
ReplyDeletewhat is the ogi? How do I look for it in stores or what is it worth?
ReplyDeleteThat is the LM7805 Voltage regulator as written above on the layout. OGI is just the pinout for it.
DeleteHi everyone, I hope that this blog is still alive. I've just finished building this pedal and everything seems to work (and sound) good, exept for one thing: the volume and the blend knob behave is a similar and (I guess) uncorrect way. When the Volume knob is set to zero, I can't hear any sound (neither clean nor effected signal), same thing for the blend knob. In order to hear something I have to turn both volume and blend knob and so I can hear the reverbered signal. I've alreasy checked the circuit twice and everything seems to be in order, can somebody help me? Thanks a lot.
ReplyDelete