For the intensity switch I've opted for a 100p cap to go in parallel with the 47p between IC4 pins 5 & 7, but I'd recommend socketing the 100p and trying a few different values to see which works best for you giving the best range of tones.
One for a 125B I reckon.
Info about the fine original:
The CE-2 effect unit is a new. compact version of the famous BOSS CE-l chorus ensemble, which has become one of the world's most popular units of its type on the market. Two separate controls are provided for independent variation of RATE and DEPTH to expand the creation possibilities. This advanced unit also has a fine S/N [S/N 90dB or more (IHF-A)] for lower noise operation. An LED lights to tell you at a glance when effect is on.
As an added bonus, here's an add-on stereo daughterboard option. Note that a stereo option isn't available for the CE-2 and so this has been inferred from the implementation in the CE-3. It should be good to go but should still be considered experimental until someone verifies, and so at this stage it's one for the tweakers.
All other connections to the CE-2 board have been removed to simplify the layout, and you'll see that the B connection will require the covering link to be pushed to one side slightly to allow the wire access to the hole. If you are including the Vibe switch option then a DPST will now be needed (or DPDT if they are easier to source), with the A wire also being switched.
And on Miro's recommendation this version removes the Madbean depth mod which took something away from the authentic CE2 sound to him. I've called it "Original", but have left the Vibe and Intensity switches in there as an option simply because you will still be able to set it in 100% original mode if you choose to using the switches (or omit them entirely of course if you prefer).
Addition - 5th January 2019
New version with Anti-Tick mod which will apparently cure all problems with noise. Thanks to Razvan S for the heads up.
amazing - I've been working on a very stripped down version of this for the wizard collection I'm doing. great minds ay!
ReplyDeleteHaha, they do indeed mate
DeleteIf the vibrato sw is not wanted do I just connect vib1 and vib2 with each other via a wire?
ReplyDeleteJust omit the wires and move the 47K at Vibe switch 2 horizontally on the top row above the IC, on either side of the cut
DeleteIs a 1n4148 ok to sub for the 1s1588?
ReplyDeleteYes
DeleteGood luck getting that bastard in a 125b. I built Sabro's a while back and finally admitted defeat and went with a 1590bb. Of course mine has one more pot and one more switch than this layout. It was a sonovabitch. Sounds wonderful, though.
ReplyDeleteIt's funny.. a year ago, maybe longer, I was building all these dirt pedals and wishing for more complex effects. There was the Little Bastard Chorus and the Zombii Chorus. I built both. The Zombii is still around somewhere and the Little Asshole Chorus has been demolished... twice.
Now I have a CE-2 clone, a Pork Barrel, a Mini-Me (from guitarpcb.com), and a Synthrotech Chorus. In addition, I have a Clone Theory and a Small Clone started, AND I have a chorus circuit I'm trying to create from two other existing chorus circuits for a massive Freak Show Chorus, AND I'm trying to psych myself up to attempting the Dimension P Chorus (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94435 NOT my layout)...
2014: Year of the Chorus.
Indeed.
The board will only end up around 57 x 82mm so should easily fit in a 125B if you mount the board upside down. I've seen a 21 x 29 board in a 1590B so this should be a piece of cake :o)
DeleteIt's probably the fault of my big giant bear-paw hands (which is also why I had to delete and repost... Hulk SMASH...er...TYPE!).
DeleteYou'd probably cry if you saw how I had mine crammed in that 1590BB enclosure (it was originally wired for a 125B.. mu.. ha.. ha...). I console myself by claiming it's "artistic."
One of the easiest builds in 125B (Harald's one):
Deletehttp://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/file/n6157/ce2_guts.jpg;cid=1404171213468-226
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/file/n6157/ce2.jpg;cid=1404171213468-226
Yep. The one I verified it with is in a 125b.
DeleteYeah, well, I guess using those low profile 1/4" jacks drilled all the way to the top would make it easier.
DeleteYep, you've convinced me to re-box it. I might be a bit of a bull in a china shop, but I know a good idea when I see one. Thanks for the pics, Javi.
DeleteYou're welocome Heath :) You don't need either low profile jacks, a regular closed frame would do the trick too.
DeleteJ.
I took a LONG break from boxing (and I guess it shows)... I've been building circuits and then stashing them in little bags and boxes for when I felt like drilling aluminum enclosures, so now I have about 30 "keeper" circuits waiting to be boxed.
DeleteI usually keep the low profile jacks around for 1590A builds, for when I'm feeling particularly masochistic, so luckily I had a couple available. I opted for these over the regular enclosed jacks for a little extra room since I'm feeling so rusty at this.
I did manage to box a "RockMan" circuit in a 1590A (not a big deal for most as it's a small circuit, but for me and my banana fingers ANY 1590A project is an accomplishment) last night, so I'm starting to get get the "feel" back for planning this stuff out better.
I'm the same, I have loads of boards lying around that need boxing, but there is always something else to build or do. And anyone putting anything bigger than a buffer in a 1590A is a lot more patient than I am! Shame really because a chain of 1590A effects would be very useful for me.
DeleteSorry Mark. I forgot to let you know...It's done and works great. It is in a 125b but has no battery clip....none of my builds have battery clips...I hate batterys!
ReplyDeleteFantastic, you are indeed on a verifying roll! :o)
DeleteYou're on a roll Jeff
ReplyDeleteYou too Mark. Can't believe you nailed it first try with such a complex circuit
Plenty of room for both switches and a battery hook up (not used) in a 125b. Yes the enclosed jacks are a handy component. When the jacks and the 9v socket are put in line, as close to the top as possible, in front, AND the 3pdt is as far down as possible you can fit a 37x23 vero in a 125b WITH a battery hookup. I hate batterys and boxes that take up too much room!!
ReplyDeleteI'm trying to keep up with Mark but it is not possible.......Thanks Mark.
Will any 12v zener work for D3?
ReplyDelete*sidebar - thank you IvIark for doing this layout. i didnt want to ask because you generally don't do these 4 chip layouts. i have an early 80's CE2 that i adore and am excited to have a diy version.*
I'd probably use a 1/2W or even a 1W zener just to be on the safe side. They're all available cheaply enough.
DeleteI said a while ago that when the to do list starts shrinking a bit I'd start doing the bigger circuits from time to time, but less frequently. I don't mind doing 4 IC layouts (or bigger), I just don't like doing layouts that end up needing a box which would be noticeably larger than the original simply because I use a rack tray, space is at a premium and if my layout was going to need a bigger box than the original, then I'd prefer to make it on a PCB to keep the dimensions down, or even use an original (not very often :o). For something like this though I'm happy if I can get the build in a 125B, otherwise I'd use a PCB for this too. In fact I've got a Pork Barrel in front of me.
Heehee :) I got a letter from Brian today and my Pork Barrel is otherwise finished, just waiting for BBD+clock to arrive. Also, i put the Lowrider together today too. It sounds mean :) Madbean boards are amazing work and quality. However, i don't like how the pots line up on the enclosure when using board mounted pots.. Lowrider is definitely something that isn't sane to draw up on a stripboard - it'll need 1590BB with the Madbean's two-sided PCB, and that's one packed board.
DeleteFor me - no. I won't be drawing these bigger ones anytime soon. I tend to become nervous wreck if i have an error on my layout, so CE-2 from me... No. I just don't want the pressure and the stress. The day i feel i can handle it... We'll see then. But hey. There are always Madbean's boards for the bigger designs. Sure they cost more than a slab of vero...
+m
Built the Pork Barrel with the cool audio chips.
ReplyDeleteIt's not nearly as lush as the demo video. =(
Hi Nick.
DeleteWhat's a 'pork barrel'?
jeff
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3078710/Pork-Barrel.jpg
Deletebut forreelz: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/PorkBarrel/docs/PorkBarrel.pdf
DeleteIncrease r39 to 33k or 47k instead of 4.7k.
DeleteStereo daughterboard added
ReplyDeleteIs there a layout available for this pedal using mn3207 instead of mn3007?
ReplyDeleteThat would basically be a CE-3. I've done a slightly modded CE-3 layout but I wanted to change a few things before I post it, so I'll do that when I get chance.
DeleteThanks a lot. Will be waiting for that post
ReplyDeletehello any ideas about a MIX control extra function knob ?
ReplyDeletethank you
Check out the CE-2B layout, the Effect Level pot is included with that pedal.
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteIt is possible to put an JRC4559P instead of JRC4558 ?
I can't find an JRC4558 in my electronic shop.
Same thing with the 1S1588, What other diodes can I use ?
Thanks
Yes no problem, and try 1N4148's
DeleteThanks Iviark !
DeleteThanks Iviark !
DeleteCan I change TL022 for something else?
ReplyDeleteI put it together seems right. But with cables connected vibe guitar sounds clean
ReplyDeleteMy voltages are: 6.5V Battery
4558: 1: 3,3 2: 3,3 3: 3,3 4: 0
8: 6,5 7: 3,3 6: 3,3 7: 3,3
3101: 1: 6,5 2: 6,5 3: 0 4: 0
8: 0,4 7: 4,5 6: 0,08 5: 6,5
3007: 1: 6,5 2: 0 3: 0,6 4: 0,4
8: 5,9 7: 5,9 6: 6,5 5: 0
TL062: 1: 0,6 a 5,7 2: 3,2 3: V 4: 0
8: 6,5 7: V 6: 1,8 5: 3,2
Q1: c: 6,3 b: 0,6 e: 0,1
Q2: c: 6,3 b: 1,1 e: 2,1
Q3: c: 6,3 b: 0,7 e: 0,2
Q4: c: 4,0 b: 0,6 e: 0
Q5: c: 6,3 b: 1,5 a 3,1 e: 1,5 a 2,7
Please heelp!
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteHaistappa sinä Joaquin vittu.
DeleteWhy on earth would you run the circuit with with a battery that gives out 6.5 volts? I'm fairly certain the MN3007 will not work right with 6.5 volts.
+m
Gracias ese no es el problema, sigue funcionando igual con 9v.
DeleteLa verdad no se que hice mal, suena la guitarra limpia cuando uno los cables de vibe solamente.
La luz parpadea correctamente pero no funciona el efecto chorus
So you get vibe when the switch is in that position, but just clean signal on chorus setting? Is the switch ok? How about probing to see where the vibe side signal dies?
DeleteBy the way.. If people simply miss your comment and do not answer in two days, do you think "thanks for nothing" is good way to ask for help?
+m
Me disculpo profundamente. No uso el footswitch. Simplemente uní los cables de Vibe y el sonido sale pero limpia. Uní los cables de intensidad y no suena nada.
DeleteSince the signal is going through, the issue has to be with the delay line (MN3007/MN3101) or the LFO (IC2/Q4/Q5). Could you check the voltages for these components with proper voltage from the supply and post them? If someone would notice something off with those.. I have not built this board myself, so i can't compare the voltages to anything.
Delete+m
Ok muchas gracias mirosol! Los voltajes son:
DeleteMn3007: 1: 8,8 8: 8,0
2: 0 7: 8,0
3: 0,9 6: 8,8
4: 0,6 5: 0
Mn3101: 1: 8,8 8: 0,6
2: 8,8 7: 5,5
3: 0 6: 0,5
4: 0 5: 8,7
Tl062: 1: 2,7 a 5,8 8: 8,8
2: 4,2 7: 3,5 a 4,9
3: 3,5 a 4,9 6: 4,08
4: 0 5: 4,2
Q4: c: 5,1 b: 0,6 e: 0
Q5: c: 8,7 b: 2,6 a 3,1 e: 2,4 a 2,8
Espero Que sea de fácil traducción, ya que soy de Argentina. Ya armé algunos vero y me funcionaron de esta página increíble. Espero alguien me ayude.
A alguien le sucedió lo mismo?
DeleteEs probable Que esté defectuoso el integrado, como he leído por ahí. Ya compré dos juegos de integrados y no funciona. Hay alguna forma de comprobar si un integrado no funciona?
DeleteIt is likely to be defective Integrated, As he read somewhere? BUY TWO SETS Whether Integrated Works not. There a way to check if an Integrated Does not Work?
DeleteWhat does the 10k trimmer do and what should it be set to?
ReplyDeleteIt sets the reference voltage for the ICs. This is usually set with two resistors to give you half the supply voltage but they obviously thought that fine tuning could make the effect better and so included the trimmer to allow you to do that. The best position to start from would be dead centre because this will get you closer to exactly half the supply. Then tweak from there.
DeleteThanks for the help!
DeleteOkay..I've populated the board, wired up the necessities (ground, power, input and output) but I'm getting no signal passing at all. I measured the voltages at each IC's pins...anything look off?
ReplyDelete4558 - 1: -6.32V, 2: -6.35V, 3: -6.26V, 4: 0V, 5: 6.33V, 6: -6.33V, 7: -6.33V, 8: -12.52V
TL022 - 1: -11.93V, 2: -6.31V, 3: -11.74V, 4: 0V, 5: -6.31V, 6: -0.07V, 7: -11.97V, 8: -12.57V
MN3007 - 1: -12.58V, 2: -6.38V, 3: -5.52V, 4: -0.85V, 5: 0V, 6: -6.37V, 7: -5.12V, 8: -5.12V
MN3101 - 1: -12.59V, 2: -6.36V, 3: 0V, 4: -6.39V, 5: -0.24V, 6: -11.52V, 7: -3.44V, 8: -0.84V
I'll double check my connections to make sure I don't have any bridges...
Thanks,
-Ryan
Nevermind, found an image with the correct voltages. Gonna try a different power supply...hope I didn't fry anything with the 12V...
DeleteAnd done! And with it's new owner (built it for my guitar teacher's birthday) http://i.imgur.com/fxSw5f6.jpg (no gut shots since it ain't pretty)
ReplyDeleteAnd just in case anyone was curious...you can get faster or slower speeds by playing around with the 100n on the bottom of the layout. I put one on a switch with two other caps in parallel on the other side to give me about 80n, and it gave a nice boost into pseudo-Leslie territory. Higher value = slower. Lower value = faster.
ReplyDeleteAlso...this pedal can flange. Speed on minimum, depth on maximum...nice swirly flanging tones...
Thanks for the info Ryan
DeleteJust wondering...any idea how I could lessen/eliminate the ticking I'm getting with the effect on...?
ReplyDeleteHi, need some help.
ReplyDeleteAll controls seem to work but I'm getting a distorted tone and weak chorus. The trimmer has a very small window of usable adjustment, just a bit off either side of dead center.
I've swapped all transistors and ICs. No change,
Here are my voltage readings with regulated 9.13V
IC1 4558
1-4.54
2-4.54
3-4.54
4-0.0
5-4.54
6-4.54
7-4.54
8-8.84
IC2 TL022
1-varies 3.1-5.8
2-4.54
3-varies 3.8-5.1
4-0.0
5-4.54
6-4.55-4.58
7-varies 3.9-5.1
8-8.84
IC3 MN3007
1-8.84
2-4.56-4.57
3-3.80-3.82
4-0.59
5-0.0
6-4.54
7-3.54-3.56
8-3.54-3.56
IC4
1-8.84
2-4.53
3-0.0
4-4.56-4.57
5-0.33-0.35
6-7.76-7.80
7-2.92-3.0
8-0.56
Q1 2N5088
C-8.84
B-3.95
E-3.52
Q2 2N5088
C-8.84
B-4.35
E-3.8
Q3 2N5088
C-8.84
B-3.99
E-3.53
Q4 2N5088
C-7.38-7.46
B-0.41
E-0
Q5 2N5088
C-8.84
B-3.92-4.28
E-3.35-3.86
Frustrated as I can't find a bridge or component out of place.
Finally added an audio probe to my Test Box 2. Cool device, don't know why I put it off for so long.
DeleteTroubleshooting the distortion:
I have a clean signal on MN3007 pin 3, but distortion on pins 7 & 8.
If I remove Q3 or the MN3101, I get a clean output, but no Chorus of course.
Same issue with 3 different MN3007s and 2 MN3101s. Not sure where to go next.
If I pick lightly, no distortion. Could this be a headroom issue?
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DeleteFWIW powering this pedal with 15V took care of both of those issues. The chorus came alive, sounding much better and the distortion is gone.
DeleteUnfortunately, I just noticed a faint thumping in the background, not a ticking, sounds more like a faint heartbeat but definitely timed with the LFO. It may have been there all along and I just didn't notice. I'm using shielded wire from input jack to vero to switch to output jack. This noise happens with both 15V and 9Vs.
1st experience with this type of noise, not sure where to look. The audio probe picks up the ticking if the lead gets anywhere near the board. Haven't had luck isolating the heartbeat.
Need some help
Solved! Increased the VB filtering, changed 47u to 100u and added a 470n in parallel just because. I think the 100u did the trick on it's own,
DeletePedal sounds much cleaner and livelier with 15V supply.
I also added a speed mod by replacing the 100n with a 56n, and added a DPDT on-off-on switch lugs 2 & 5 in parallel with the 56n cap. Added a 47n on lugs 1 & 4 and a 22n on lugs 3 & 6. Down position is "slow" at about 100n, middle position is "fast" at 56n and top is in between at about 78n.
Thanks for the excellent layout!
I just built another one and even though I used a 100uf for the VB filtering, this one has the thumping too! I also have both pots and switches wired with shielded wire.
DeleteHas anybody else experienced and resolved this thumping?
The thumping is timed with the rate control, not a ticking noise, sounds more like a heartbeat or thumping.
Powered with either 9V/15V same issue.
Got that thumping too. oh well it was a great learning experience for me as I made this board 2 times. (was my first soldering/electronics projects ) i'm gonna get another layout not on veroboard to see if i can get a descent chorus...
DeleteHi I recently finished building the CE-2 , only to find it is not functioning , When I activate to pedal, I get low level Audio that is very muffled, I have checked the placement of parts, checked soldering and touched up some of the solders joints, I have replaced the IC's as well as the transistors, But every time I test it after I have checked something, I still get the same muffled audio.
ReplyDeleteAny ideas would be great.
Peter
I have also checked voltages, soldering, any bridges, found all to be ok, but still no joy.
DeletePeter
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteMy Voltages
DeleteIC1 4558
1 6.13v
2 6.13v
3 6.13v
4 0v
5 6.13v
6 6.13v
7 6.13v
8 9.35v
IC2 TL022
1 varies
2 4.68v
3 varies
4 0v
5 4.67v
6 4.67v
7 varies
8 9.35
IC3 MN3007
1 9.22v
2 4.8v
3 5.31v
4 0.62v
5 0v
6 4.78v
7 5.3v
8 5.3v
IC4 MN3101
1 9.22v
2 4.7v
3 0v
4 4.78v
5 0.36v
6 8.1v
7 2.9v
8 0.62v
All Q's are 2N5088
Q1 c, 9.3v b, 5.26v e 4.88v
Q2 c, 9.3v b, 5.86v e, 5.33v
Q3 c, 9.3v b, 5.43v e, 5.01v
Q4 c, 9.25v b, 4.5 ish varies e, 4.5 ish varies
Q5 c, 7.6v b, 0.4v e, 0v
My power supplies is 9.35v
Peter
I am having the same issue as Peter, I just get a dropped signal when engaged. Adjusting the trimmer boosted the signal slightly.
DeleteJoe
Doing my first build with this design bass version. What components can I change to accept line level from synth rather than guitar so I don't clip the signal ? I think the 1m resistor should be 10k and the input cap 47n may be 4.7uf but am not sure and was hoping some more knowledgeable builders could confirm the values. Also would 15v give cleaner sound rather than 9v. Thanks Tom
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing, nice post!
ReplyDeleteMáy đưa võng hay thiet bi dua vong tu dong đang ngày càng “được lòng” nhiều bậc phụ huynh bởi tính năng ưu việt của vong em be tu dong cùng sự tiện ích của vong tu dong. Những lợi ích mà may dua vong mang lại là vô cùng thiết thực. An Thái Sơn luôn cung cấp sản phẩm máy đưa võng hay vong ru tu dong cho be chất lượng nhất TP.HCM, tự hào là địa chỉ bán may dua vong tu dong gia re cho trẻ em.
Chia sẽ các bạn những cách giúp trẻ nhanh biết đi hay bí quyết giúp trẻ nhanh biết đi, bí quyết làm thế nào để cho bé đi ngủ sớm hay những món ăn giảm cân cho trẻ béo phì, bí quyết giúp trẻ hết biếng ăn hiệu quả, trị chứng mất ngủ ở trẻ em hiệu quả, bí quyết cải thiện làn da cho bé hiệu quả, bí quyết giúp bé ngủ ngon giấc hay những cách chế biến đông trùng hạ thảo nguyên con, chia sẻ cách chữa trị bệnh rụng tóc ở trẻ em hiệu quả, những cách chống nắng cho bé hiệu quả hay thực phẩm giúp giải độc gan cho bạn, thực phẩm giúp nhanh liền sẹo hiệu quả, phòng trị bệnh viêm khớp ở trẻ em an toàn, những thực phẩm bổ não cho trẻ cải thiện trí nhớ, những thực phẩm không nên ăn khi thiếu máu não bạn nên lưu ý, chia sẻ thực phẩm cho người bị rối loạn tiền đình hoặc món ăn chữa bệnh mất ngủ hiệu quả
Cách chăm sóc da mặt bằng http://cachchamsocdamatbang.blogspot.com/
Dạy trẻ sơ sinh tại http://daytresosinh.blogspot.com/
Bí quyết giảm cân hay tại http://biquyetgiamcanhay.blogspot.com/
On the layout, some of the links have a white dot, what does that represent?
ReplyDeletethat means they're a double link.
Deletebasically instead of a normal link, which goes between two points, a double link makes multiple connections. so in reality you're really making multiple links that equate to a single link.
Thanks... Also if not wanting the intensity switch, do you just omit the 100p cap and wiring for it?
DeleteI've built another of these, and this one has the same thumping noise I had with my previous build. I increased the VB filter cap from 47u to 100u on the last build and the noise went away. Didn't help on this one.
ReplyDeleteI'm using the "original" layout.
Has anybody else experience and resolved this thumping noise?
yep go to the forum and check out my boss ce-2 ticking post . Frank put a mod fix for the lfo. the ticking/thumping is caused buy the voltage drain when the lfo changes from square to triangle wave on the flip flop its a draw spike causing it. the seperate voltage divider will work i have verified his layout. i tried your fix and it didnt help. also i did shield the rate pot inputs and outputs this helped some but not enough before the fix.
ReplyDeleteFantastic!
DeleteThank you for sharing and thanks for reminding me of the open chat forum here!
Can't wait to give this a try. Will post results in the forum next Sunday.
I would like to verify the stereo mod does work and sounds wonderful. Thanks IVIARK your the man!
ReplyDeleteI'm having a hard time determining what the depth increase mod is that the Pork Barrel has. Is it the 47uF cap that is from DEPTH-1 to GND?
ReplyDeleteHello to all
ReplyDeleteI built the pedal but there seems no difference between the pedal on and off ..
I probably wrong wiring 3PDT. you could suggest a pattern for the button switch?
The two switches are spdt 2 pin?
Does this diagram help?
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
Or this one?
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/StandardWiring_MBP.pdf
is a diagram that provides for the connection of the two switches as for this chorus?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
Deletesorry but my computer flickers ...
ReplyDeleteThe two switches are on / on or on / off?
thanks
What type switches are you using? SPST or SPDT?
ReplyDeleteSPST (2 lugs) = on/off
SPDT (3 lugs) = on/on but you don't use lug 3 so it acts like SPST on/off
i used a 2 lugs switch.
ReplyDeletebut does not work .. the wiring on the board should be ok . maybe in wiring and jacks 3PDT , ground .. I do not know . the signal is unchanged whether the pedal is on or off ... may depend on what ?
I have just finished building this but am getting no delayed signal so if the vibe switch is open I get no signal, with it closed I hear the unaffected signal. I have noticed that the current draw is very high - about 60mA. Having removed the ICs and replaced each in turn the offending one seems to be the mn3007 but I have tried 4 different ones from 2 different suppliers so don't think it likely that they are all faulty. Voltages are as follows (with the mn3007 removed)
ReplyDeleteIC4
1 - 8.35v
2 - 4.27v
3 - 0v
4 - 4.28v
5 - 0.25v
6 - 7.5v
7 - 2.8v
8 - 0.56v
IC3
1 - 8.57v
2 - 4.3v
3 - 3.5v
4 - 0.56v
5 - 0v
6 - 4.2v
7 - 8.3v
8 - 8.3v
The only change I have made is to use 2n3904 instead of 2n5088 form the transistors.
Any help would be very much appreciated as this is driving me mad.
Hi! I've got the EXACT same problem as you: no signal at all and just the unaffected signal if i turn on the vibe switch. (i've built the last diagram, the 'original' ce-2) Did you find a fix? anyone?
DeleteMany apologies for not spotting your comment earlier - turned out in my case that it was problems with the MN3007 - even though I had tried 3 different suppliers! I eventually bought 2 from a US supplier who stated that they were hand tested and it worked perfectly first time once I adjusted the trimmer.
DeleteI'm afraid Alex (down further in the thread) may have the same issue.
DeleteDave, do you recall not having any signal with the 'bad' mn3007 but then it would pass sound with the new one?
Also, did your voltages increase with the good one?
There was no signal at all downstream of the mn3007, I did take voltages before the change but not afterwards and I don't have the original voltages now so not sure if they changed - to be honest though I think I only measured voltages without the ICS in place as I was worried about doing further damage as the mn3007 was getting quite hot.
DeleteI finally got it working : it was the chorus chipset (3007 and 3101).
DeleteGot some new sets from another supplier and it worked!
Excellent! Which supplier did you use?
DeleteThis 'polida2008' ebay seller had good ones: http://www.ebay.ca/usr/polida2008
DeleteMAO you already know, but for everyone else. DO NOT BUY ANYTHING FROM POLIDA on ebay. They are known for commonly selling counterfeit, fake, and dead components. there is a thread in the forum about trusted sellers online and ebay.
Deleteoh wow, I didnt know that - got lucky on the 3 pairs that i bought from him ! ( I had bought 10 dead pairs from some other chinese store
Deleteearlier)
yea very lucky actually. any obsolete part should never be bought from china, basically just assume you're getting fakes of junk. always get obsolete parts from reputable sellers, usually will cost more but you will get the actual part.
DeleteTalking about POLIDA, I have been getting an assortment of devices (most obselete) for a year now including MN3007/MN3101 and every single one has worked. I do so with an expected risk but the price is a steal if it works and so far no trouble, yet!
DeleteHow would I add an LED for the 'original' circuit at the bottom?
ReplyDeleteI also have the same question!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteWhich 12V Zener would you suggest?
ReplyDeleteHaving a bit of an issue with this one, bypasses as normal, when engaged the signal stays the same (just the clean sound, no chorus), when i flick the vibrato switch on it cuts the signal completely, which leads me to believe its something within the "chorus part of the circuit" if that makes any sense because the vibrato is just chorus without the clean signal. The led lights up and flashed with the rate, i also notice if i use the dirty channel on my amp i get a pulsing noise according to how the rate is set which i guess is normal for this kind of circuit?
ReplyDeleteIts as if everything is working fine, apart from the actual chorus part! Ive checked for slder bridges and misplaced components and cant see anything wrong. Any ideas??
Hi Alex,
DeleteI believe your assumptions are correct based on the symptoms.
Post the IC voltages, that may give us a better clue.
Also, do you have an audio probe?
And last, I had built a couple of these and they had the same LFO noise (ticking). I believe there is a verified fix in the forum...if memory serves, you should be able to modify the existing layout to implement the fix.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your reply, ill post the voltages tonight when i get home...
I dont have an audio probe unfortunately, what would i use it for in this instance??
Thanks
Alex
Ok, so here goes...ive tried to be specific as possible, it it normal that on some the voltages change slightly? Ie they go up and down within a certain range??
ReplyDeleteIC1
1-3.47
2-3.46
3-3.45
4-0.00
5-3.46
6-3.46
7-3.48
8-7.11
IC2
1-cycles through a range between 1.7 & 5.5 in accordance with the speed?
2-3.47
3-cycles through a range between 2.5 & 4.1
4-0.00
5-3.47
6-2.52
7-cycles through a range of 2.3 & 4.3
8-7.1
IC3
1-7.1
2-3.84
3-2.1
4-1.58
5-0.00
6-3.13
7-1.1
8-1.1
IC4
1-7.1
2-3.13
3-0.00
4-3.83
5-0.2-0.3
6-6.2
7-2.4
8-1.62
You may have a couple of things going on.
Delete1st, if you have sound with the vibe switch closed, and then no sound with the switch open, then the "wet" signal is being lost somewhere as you suspected. Could be at Q2, Q3, IC3 or anywhere in between. An audio probe would help you find it fairly quickly. If you make one (very easy to do, check youtube), I'll walk you through the troubleshooting process.
2nd. The supply voltage looks very low, and voltage on IC3 pins 7&8 IC3 look low. But that might be because the supply voltage is so low.
Post the voltage you read on the top and bottom of the 33R. You might want to double check the value of that resistor too.
BTW, once you use an audio probe, you'll wonder how you got along without one! They are perfect for this type of issue. It will also help you find out exactly where the LFO pulsing noise is entering the signal path.
Do you have a 12v adapter?
And which layout did you build?
Mike
Thanks for your help, ive got a week off work this week so I'll have time to really look into it. I do have a 12v adaptor and i built the first layout "with mods"...will sort the audio probe and get back to you on the other questions...
ReplyDeleteI haven't built that layout, just the original, I'll look it over today.
DeleteIts interesting Dave (Dec 30) and Robert (July 13) seemed to have the same issue.
The readings on both sides of the 33R will tell us if yours is also drawing to much current.
But hang in there, we should be able to spot the issues with the audio probe.
And once that is all sorted out, then you might want to try powering with 12v. Mine sounded much better with 12v supply, but I would hold off on that for now. Let's get the sound passing first.
My problem was actually that al the MN3007s I had bought (from 3 different suppliers) were defective - bought 2 from a US supplier that were described as hand tested and these worked perfectly.
DeleteThanks Dave, I suspect Alex may have the same issue with the mn3007 as he has the same issues you described and it looks like a large voltage drop across the 33R. Once he confirms that resistor value and the voltage drop, I'll ask him to pull the 3007 and take the voltage readings again. My guess is the 3007 is damaged or fake causing both symptoms.
DeleteAlex, here is a quick way to make an audio probe if needed. https://youtu.be/jWvIfDSxbIk
Hi Guys,
DeleteApologies for the delay on replying to this, I appreciate all the help, i've not had a chance to go over it yet but will do ASAP.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteoh but i did get a chance to measure the 33r, 9v at the top, ~6.5v at the bottom.
ReplyDeleteI did buy a pack of 5 mn3007, tried swapping it out, didn't change anything. they may well all be duds.
Can you share the supplier's name?
DeleteWow, that's a huge current draw. 2.5v/33r=75ma.
ReplyDeletePull the MN3007 and take those same readings again.
If you get something in the mid 8v range at the bottom of the 33R, chances are your MN3007's are at fault.
If the voltage is still low, pull the other ICs one at a time taking the same readings. At some point, the voltage should jump up into the mid 8v range
FYI I purchased most of my MN3007 from a US Ebay seller http://www.ebay.com/usr/t*r*e*e*?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 and from Australia http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php
but they both appear to be out of stock.
You might want to contact both of them to see if they have any available offline.
Not necessarily a recommendation, but I did roll the dice once and bought 3 pairs MN3007/MN3101 from ebayer Polida2008, and they did work.
Just some seller from China, i'll find the user name if I can, they were like 10 for £4 or something. So i guess they are fake or faulty as you say, I didn't realise that was even a thing!
DeleteI'm just going to buy a good one and see if it solves the problem, I also have the "ultimate tester kit" coming from fuzz dogs pedal parts which has an audio probe as part of it so i'll be able to trouble shoot better after i've built that.
And yes, as you said, with the mn3007 pulled i was getting 8.2/8.3v at the bottom of the 33r
DeletePedal is working now, got a new MN3007 from a UK source (was not cheap) and its working perfect. Now I just need to find a better source for more of them as i don't want to pay that every time i need one!
ReplyDeleteCan you said me your IC's voltage values with a 9V source or battery? My circuit doesn´t sound but it sounds on bypass.
DeleteExcellent!
ReplyDeleteDid the LFO ticking/whoosh noise go away?
Hello, I'm trying to make stereo chorus mod, but it doesn´t sound. Led + has 0.56V and it doesn´t light. I don´t understand how is the connection of A wire with the dpdt or spdt switch and neither I know if the trimmer is ok. What are the good voltages of IC pins with 9V? Help please!
ReplyDeleteHi Guy`s, I am thinking off making the original Boss ce-2 , but don't want to put the vibe switch in. Must I put The switch in to complete the circuit or is it optional yes!
ReplyDeleteDoes this circuit is checked ?. I have built with the mod stereo and only noise heard on that part. I would like to start it again but I need to know if anyone has gotten it to work. Regards.
ReplyDeleteI don't know of anyone building it. The stereo portion was derived from the way it was implemented in the CE-3 so there may be some issue which is why I mentioned it should be considered experimental for the tweakers until someone verifies. I will check the circuit over to see if anything jumps out, so put it to one side for the time being and I'll let you know if I find any issues.
DeleteActually I tell a lie, Strassercaster verified it above and said it worked well. Could you post some high res pics of your board and give us the links, and tell us the voltages you're getting at the IC pins
DeleteI finally gave up. I´m trying with the tonepad PCB and works fine. I had to built the stereo PCB on the prototyping board like here. It makes some noise but I hope to resolve the problem. I think IC3 and IC4 could be fakes or my trimmer could be wrong. Thanks for your help Ivlark.
Delete2 things on this as i decided to build a tricked out version with the spst's on footswitches.
ReplyDeleteCan someone please post a link to strassercasters ticking fix thread as i cannot find it anywhere. Would like to solve the ticking issue.
2nd is that ive added in the stereo daughterboard, but ive noticed if i connect output 2 but the pedal is off, signal only runs to output 1 (ie mono) until i turn the pedal on, then it runs full stereo.
Is this normal? I assumed in bypass the 2 outputs would just split the signal??
That is how mine works and I believe that is correct operation. When the footswitch is in bypass mode both ce-2 circuit and daughter board connected to output 2 are removed from the audio path. Signal path is reduced to source input to footswitch to output 1. It appears that stereo mode does not extend itself to clean bypassed signal.
DeleteCompleted this yesterday, layout with mods and stereo module and it works perfectly. Had 2N5088's in there at at first then swapped them out for 2SC945's as per original circuit, didn't notice any difference. Stereo module works! Wanted to fit this into a 125B but with the stereo daughterboard, extra jack and option for battery I had to settle on 125BB, worth it though, it sounds so good! Thanks for the layout!
ReplyDeleteJust completed the 'original' layout, 2SC945's as per original circuit and without the stereo module in a 125B with space for a battery. Absolutely mint, sounds great. Thanks for the layout lvlark.
ReplyDeleteHello Chance! No ticking at all?
DeleteCompleted layout with mods without any problems.(2n5088)
ReplyDeleteBut I tried 3 different ic's mn3007. I bought 2 from ebay with no effect, only with my old Japan pedal from 90s I had results.
These are the ic's from ebay
http://bonsaiforum.gr/images/electronics/mn3007_ebay.jpg
http://bonsaiforum.gr/images/electronics/mn3007_ebay2.jpg
and this is my old mn3007.
http://bonsaiforum.gr/images/electronics/mn3007_Japan.jpg
Thank you Ivlark!
With a little modification is working perfectly with mn3207 & mn3102.
DeleteOk I recently completed the original layout and the one with mods and stereo module which I have dubbed 'enhanced. I re-boxed both as the I wanted some uniformity. I originally boxed the mods layout with stereo module in a 125BB which I figured is a waste of good space. Plus I wanted to streamline my wiring. Both are in 125B's and utilise 2SC945's as per original circuit. Mods version has stereo module attached, rate LED. Both pedals sound beautiful, stereo module works perfectly and there is no ticking or other crap noise. Here are some pics:
ReplyDeletehttp://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/Chance_N_Sarah/Pedals/Boss%20CE-2%20Clones%20-%20Original%20and%20Enhanced_zpslcae3oky.jpg
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/Chance_N_Sarah/Pedals/Boss%20CE-2%20Clone%20-%20Complete_zps0ka9mkg2.jpg
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/Chance_N_Sarah/Pedals/Boss%20CE-2%20Clone%20-%20Gutshot_zpsignr9pzh.jpg
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHey Guys, I've build this Chorus with Mods. And now I need help, these are my Problems:
ReplyDelete- such no sound if Vibe sw is open
- both Potentiometers are distored while turning
- the complete Circuit is very quiet
- while turning the trimmer, a chorus is hearable but quiet
I test it with a 9V Battery and an 12V Adapter.
Btw: The LED is NOT connected this time (perhabs it helps)
Can anyone help me?
Anf please apologize if there are grammar mistakes.
Answer in german would help too, but no must!
Thanks a lot!
What can I help ?
ReplyDeleteI did everything right but as I turn on the pedal, he leaves the clean sound
The MN3007 gets hot, very hot, And only leaves the clean sound
What could be ?
thank you
I recently bought a set of MN3007's from eBay and tested them in ADA Flanger clone. Effect didn't work and they got very hot. I was suspicious at first because they didn't look authentic. So yeah try again from another source.
DeleteSounds exactly the problem I originally had and it was down to fake or faulty mn3007, bought one from a seller who tests them and whilst more expensive, worked fine after that.
ReplyDeleteGood luck
Thank you dear
DeleteI will check
Hello,
ReplyDeleteI have bought several ICs from different sellers (I think chinese), and I cannot get the circuit working. I am pretty sure I got all the other things right. Please suggest me a seller that I can trust even if it is more expensive.
Thanks guys!
Kostis
There's a list of reliable sellers in a thread in the forum. Check it out.
DeleteI was curious why those specific ICs don't work (mn3007 from ebay... hot, no sound, etc). I have measured them with a multimeter and I found that these measurements are exactly the same with MN3207. I used them in our circuit as MN3007. Try these fake MN3007 with MN3102 but be careful of the positive and the negative leg. Http://Bonsaiforum.gr
ReplyDeleteIt is wierd indeed. But the ICs are the problem for sure. I checked my boards (two of them) with an audio probe and the leg 3 of the MN3007 (input) had a clear diganl, the outputs (7,8) were dead. It seems most of them are faulty, I am expecting the next 5 of them to check them out.
DeleteThanks for the advice! I will try it, I need this circuit.
Hi! I have the same problem as many here: Signal coming through, but no effect. Vibe switch cuts the signal. No reaction to trimpot and pots. But the thing is: I have now tried three (rather expensive) different MN3007. I took one of them from my Small Clone, so I know definitely that the IC works. But still the same! No effect! I have also tried three MN3101 with each of the three MN3007.
ReplyDeleteSo do you think I have a different problem? Or should I buy more MN3101 from different sources and try these? But as far as I have read it here, in most cases the MN3007 was faulty, wasn't it? Well, at least one of mine is definitely not defective (and I don’t think that the other two are). Any ideas what to do or what else to check?
Thanks!
I found it. It was a tiny solder bridge that cut the effect signal before the MN3007. But my MN3007 and MN3101 are fine. Now it works. But the chorus seems a bit slow at maximum rate? My Small Clone is much faster, but I guess this is normal and I can change this by decreasing the 100nF cap?
ReplyDeleteOK. I put another 100nF in series with the 100nF cap, so I got 50nF now. Muuuch better. And still easily slow enough on lower rate settings.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteSorry the 100nF Caps how many V must be 100? 400?
Deleteplease help I can't find out
the 100nf caps how many V must be?
Delete100?
400V?
Please help I cn't find out
Dude, you're only running 9v through this unless you're running a charge pump. Just use whatever you have that physically fits.
DeleteWell done Jim, curious are you getting a ticking or thumping sound?
ReplyDeleteYes, unfortunately I have a bit of ticking sound when the pedal is engaged and I’m not playing. Is there a solution?
DeleteI think I will try this: http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/boss-ce-2-ticking-td21858.html#a21959
DeleteYup, this solved the ticking problem :)
DeleteNo ticking only when there is a buffer in the signal chain in front of the delay. With no buffer it’s still ticking.
DeleteOkay I feel like I must be missing something stupidly simple. I've finally got the time to attempt this one. I can't figure out why the stereo daughter board would change the type of switch used for Vibe, or how the A connection would come into play. Any help?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI have a question. To the board designer or to those who had the 'LFO slushing sound' problem : what is the recommended fix for this? (If there is indeed one)
ReplyDeleteWhat LFO slushing? The ticking?
ReplyDeleteOk so mine works PERFECTLY. I actually compared to a CE-3 I just got from Japan. Same ''noise'' level and everything. I like the CE-2 much more, no strange noises, no pop, nothing. I did exactly the anti tick mod. I don't understand why it's not yet updated with the anti tick mod. Clearly thumps/ticks without it.
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/file/n22205/Boss_CE2_with_mods_fjk.png
Btw, the link is completely removed, and you install the 10K resistor on the right right where it is marked, with GREY, not replace the previously removed link! If you do that, you stop the LFO(which funny, gives a nice fixed chorus sound which is always permanent < could be a feature on a switch as well? >, I quite liked the way it changed the guitar tone, with it fixed like that)
Many thanks to you.
DeleteI've built mine as the 'normal' ce-2 and i can hear 'LFO slushing/ticking' if I crank the 'depth' knob and the amp volume is high enough.
So thank you for providing wome workarounds to fix those issues! :)
I am glad that you can sort it out now. The pedal is worth it! The person I made it for is pleased, and so am I
DeleteHere is mine, photos, videos and all. Hope you get yours fixed, it's great!
Deletehttps://hgecontraptions.blogspot.ro/2018/04/boss-ce-2-japan-clone-119th-pedal-built.html
Thanks for the heads up about this, I'll update the layout and post it over the weekend. Cheers
DeleteAs always IvIark thank you for everything here!
DeleteHello IvIark , would it be possible to modify this when you have the time? I feel that this helps greatly. The one without this mod ticks.
DeleteHi Razvan, I've updated it with the mods, will you have a look and check it is as intended. Thanks again. Mark
DeleteWow thanks a lot! I am actually building a second one now, but for bass. Yes, the modification you posted is correct!
DeleteI really tested with it and without it and it clearly ticked without the mod, and worked perfectly with it.
I love this blog :)
Ah one comment from my side:
DeleteDuring this second build, while working and NOT ticking obviously when on, I got the tick only when off (haha)for some strange reason(it is identical even in routing as the older one, whatever). Tried shielding all wires, in out, pcb in out, nothing worked. Noticed that if i FLIP the whole pcb 180 degrees with the TL022 on the input side, the tick is no longer audible at all in bypass mode. Also, what works is shielding the rate pot wires/and pot itself, and adding some adhesive copper, between the circuit and the output jack , that also cures the bypassed tick with the TL022 not flipped to 180 degrees. There are a lot of options. But again, without this anti tick fix, the pedal ticked no matter what, when ON.
Works PERFECTLY! I've changed the 10K resistor on Rate 1 Lug for a 5k1 for even slower rate at minimum and changed the 1M reisistor on Rate 2 Lug for a 330K for even faster rate at maximum. Also changed the 22K Led for a 4k7 for make it brighter! Absolutly perfect! (:
ReplyDeleteAnd it works perfectyl with 1N4148 instead of 1S1588.
Hey so this might be a strange question but:
ReplyDeletePedal has been working perfectly for about a year.
Gave it to a friend. He used to for a month or so, just in his room.
Well, one day (apparently) it just stopped working.
He sent it back to me. I've replaced all the chips and transistors and no dice.
the dry signal works fine but the wet is gone.
You can hear it very very quietly with both knobs all the way up, which means everything is working: just no volume.
If anyone has come across this problem or can tell me what would make the wet signal lose all its volume suddenly That would be really helpful.
Thanks!
sounds like a capacitor problem. try probing and swaping some of the electrolitic capacitors. if not it might as well be the ICs.
DeleteIn my experience, change the BBD and clock.
Deleteokay finaly built mine. i must say that it looks as if my bbd works correctly but the lfo doesnt work at all. the rate pot doesnt do nothing. sound's passing throught. checked for solder joints or bridges multiple times as well as swapped to other dual opamps with no luck. any ideas?
ReplyDeleteDo you hear any change in phase tone while adjusting the trimmer?
Deleteok sorted. works perfectly!
Deletemy problem was that i had to use that LFO fix (either thought my LFO was not even working at all) but it gave me that steady chorusy sound as the other guy mentioned. so i removed the link and added 2x 10k resistorts and a capacitor as shown on the layout fix and it worked perfectly!!! i guess no1 cared to update this layout? or i dont know... thank you so much anyway!!!
ok and after all i did i just realised there is the ticking going on :/
ReplyDeleteIf you have implemented the "tick fix", chances are your input wire is picking up the tick. If you can, move that wire away from the board and see if the tick goes away. If the tick change when moving that wire, then shield it.
DeleteCouple other things to try.
1. Increase the value of newly added cap. (Just because it's easy to try)
2. Shield the input wire anyway. A quick test would be to carefully wrap just the input wire with small piece of aluminum foil (doesnt have to be smooth or pretty) and ground one end of the foil with an aligator clip, if tick goes away then properly shield that wire. Just be careful not to allow the foil to touch the board.
hey thanks for helping me troubleshoot.
Deletei just swaped the cap for an 100uf but didnt help. moving on :)
tried 330uf no luck either. also wrapped both board in and out wires with foil and no luck either. :s
Deletecan i mention something? shouldnt be my LFO working before the tick fix? cuz mine didnt work. i had no LFO and rate knob didnt do nothing before i applied the tick fix. that might mean something i dunno.
Deletei did however sield the in & out wires of the board and that changed alot (meaning it didnt tick). when i put everything back together and screwed the enclosure it started ticking again. i noticed it was because the board sits on top of the in/out jacks. i run an aluminium foil with duck tape grounded on the back of a pot and that did it. but its not a proper way around plus sometimes it ticks just for a while. im guessing the ground connection aint strong. (cuz you cant solder on the aluminium foil)
DeleteI have built a few of these now and Boss CE-3, a few other choruses and flangers and I have only had ticking one time on the CE-2 layout here with the stereo daughterboard. The cause of the tick was wire laying across the JRC4558 op-amp on the stereo daughterboard. I moved the wire and I have never heard one tick from a pedal again, even with the stereo daughterboard. Lead-dressing is the only anti-tick solution I use thankfully.
ReplyDeletefinaly built mine. sounds awesome. demo here:
ReplyDeletehttps://nobrainfx.blogspot.com/2018/11/ce-2-chorus-recreation-demo.html
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ReplyDeleteJust finished a second one , the 4th layout with the anti-tick mod, as IVIark uploaded it. Thanks man! (this would be my 125th pedal built). It's actually for bass this time but the owner did not want the actual Mix/Blend, so basically, it's just the guitar one with a modified capacitor and that's it haha.
ReplyDeleteLink with a good quality sample recording and pics!(this time I rolled the board 180 degrees because the TL022 close to the output cause ticking, in BYPASS only , and this cured it; wanted to cure it with shielded wires as you can see, but that did not help at all and IMO it is NOT needed!)
https://hgecontraptions.blogspot.com/2019/02/hge-contraptions-boss-ce-2-analog.html
I Finaly got my hands on a pair of 3007-3101 and I'm going to build this one.
ReplyDeleteMaybe a stereo daughter too! One question: Is there any alteration on the tick fix layout for the stereo board, or is it the same? With very litle free time in my hands I'm a slow builder, but I'm reading like crazy before i start building anything. This will be my third and the two before this, came Very Good and Fair. Now I've got enough info to start. Let's go! (Oh, I like building theese things...)
BOA NOITE. O CI MN3102 SUBSTITUI O MN3101?
ReplyDeleteGRATO.
Qual o substituto para o MN3101?
ReplyDeleteGrato.
Hi Everyone,
ReplyDeleteI finished to build this one a few days ago and like other builders above, I only have clean signal coming out and nothing at all in vibe mode.
I have double checked for solder bridges and could not find any, also double checked my board and everything is in its right place.
I used my audio probe and tracked the signal all the way up to pin 3 of MN3007 but nothing is coming out of the output pins (7 & 8).
with the probe I am able to hear clear and loud ticks out of TL022 and they do change in frequency and intensity when I turn the rate and depth pots.
On the MN3101, I only hear very faint signal on the inputs (5, 6, & 7) and even fainter ticks on the CP1 and CP2 outputs (I have to crank up the volume way up to hear anything).
Below are the voltages I get on all parts, if someone could help me troubleshooting that would be really appreciated. I suspect issues with MN3101 and MN3007 (like a lot of other people in the comments above) but my voltages are quite different from the other posts (and they are moving a lot) and I got those IC from banzai and musikding so I would expect those to be genuine.
Power source (wall wart): 9.22V
After the 33R : 8.9V with ICs inserted and 9.05V without any IC
My bias voltage is set to 4.5V
MN3007
1 - 8.9V
2 - 4.2 (moving)
3 - 3.85V
4 - 8.3V
5 - 0V
6 - 4.3V (moving)
7 - 6.6V
8 - 6.6V
MN3101
1 - 8.9V
2 - 4.3
3 - 0
4 - 4.3
5 - 0.34 - 0.6 (moving)
6 - 8.2
7 - 2.8-3.5 (moving)
8 - 8.3
TL022
1 - moving from 0 to 8.9
2 - 4.5
3 - moving from 2.5 to 6.5
4 - 0
5 - 4.5
6 - 4.5
7 - moving 2 to 5.3
8 - 8.9
RC4558
1 - 4.5
2 - 4.5
3 - 4.5
4 - 0
5 - 4.5
6 - 4.5
7 - 4.5
8 - 8.9
Q1
E 3.5
B 3.95
C 8.9
Q2
E 3.9
B 4.4
C 8.9
Q3
E 3.7
B 4.1
C 8.9
Q4
E 3.2 - 4.7 (moving)
B 3.6 - 5.1 (moving)
C 8.9
Q5
E 0
B 0.44 - 0.55 (moving)
C 6.8 - 6.8
Voltages at MN3007 Pin 4 and MN3101 Pins 6 & 8 look high.
DeleteCheck that nothing is bridged to the MN3101 pin 6 track, the pin 8 track and the track just below the MN3101.
Also, you can then try removing the MN3007 and read voltage at MN3101 pin 8. See if it changes. Then replace MN3007, pull the MN3101 and read voltage at pin 4 of MN3007, see if that changes.
MAO, thanks a lot for your answer.
DeleteAs you suggested I've checked for bridges on pins 6 & 8 of MN3101 and on the track below and did not find any.
If I remove MN3007 => MN3101 pin 8 does not change
If I remove MN3101 => MN3007 changes a lot (I'm not sure what that means though):
1 - 9.05
2 - 0
3 - 3.9
4 - 0.165
5 - 0
6 - 0
7 & 8 - 7.35
Voltages at MN3007 Pin 4 and MN3101 Pin 8 look very high indeed when compared to voltages reported in the comments above. I've read that for MN3101, Vgg (out) = (1-14/15) Vdd which should be something around 0.6V... BUT on the MN3101 datasheet (https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/14238/PANASONIC/MN3101.html) it says Vgg (out) = 14/15 Vdd ... which is exactly what I measure.
I'm really all over the place with this one :-)
Hang in there, you'll find the answer.
ReplyDeleteWith the MN3007 pulled, pin 8 of the MN3101 should not be affected, but should be something like 0.6v.
The datasheet has pin 3 at -14V, in this application pin 3 is grounded. I'm confident 0.56V or something close would be correct.
So since it didnt change at all, leads me to believe the 3101 itself, or something around it is causing the issue.
The voltage at pin 6 should be moving too, like pins 5 and 7, but at a higher voltage.
Also seems strange pin 6 and pin 8 are so close in value.
Check resistance between those 2 pins, in circuit, no power. Shouldn't be any.
My gut tells me something not correct at pin 6 or pin 8 track, or possibly a bad mn3101. Ive never had a bad 3101 so Im not sure the symptoms, but all the other voltage readings on that IC other than pin 6 and pin 8 seem ok.
Being very careful, you can try lifting pin 6 of the MN3101 and see what happens, you dont want to break that pin off even though it's not used in this circuit, but if you can lift it, and check voltage at pin 8 again, that might tell us something.
I confirm when I pulled MN3007 pin 8 of MN3101 was not affected and is still in the 8.3V
DeleteMy bad, voltage at pin 6 of MN3101 is moving between 8 and 8.5V.
I checked and between pins 6 and 8 is an open circuit as expected.
I've measured MN3101 again with pin 6 lifted and nothing has changed on any of the pins (including pin 6)
I'm confident that nothing is wrong on pins 6 & 8 tracks (triple checked) so I really think I've got a bad MN3101. I'll try to reorder from a different supplier. Can you recommend any in EU ?
Also, I'm not sure about the MN3007. Shouldn't I get something on pins 7 or 8 no matter what the MN3101 sends ?
Sorry, not sure on the MN3007 passing sound with 8v at pin 4.
DeleteI don't want to risk blowing mine up by applying 8v as a test.
I searched google and found jeds peds in London that sells mn3101. Can't vouch for them, but looks like a DIY pedal supplier, should be good.
I have had good luck with polida2008 on ebay with their cheap mn3007/mn3101 sets, but others in the forums avoid Polida like the plaque.
Hope just the 3101 is the answer, but might want to get another mn3007 just in case it was somehow fried by the 8v.
Worse case, if it's not the ICs, you'll have an extra set to build another one or something else.
Good luck
You're probably right, I should get a MN3007 as well. I will check out these providers and let you know.
ReplyDeletethanks again for your help