Wednesday, 29 February 2012

Mid-Fi Electronics Clari(not)

This is a layout for the Mid-Fi Electronics delay/fuzz/vibrato/modulation/unstable tape simulator/weird noise thing.  Modified to include a switch to turn off the fuzz, leaving you with a clean weird noise thing :o)




Geiri's quick demo:

111 comments:

  1. Ah, gotta love the Clari(not)one of my favourite effects. ;0)

    ReplyDelete
  2. Awesome effect! I've got it all assembled...just waiting on the ICs to arrive. Will let you know how it works once I fire it up.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Done and verified...very cool effect!

      Delete
  3. Excellent, thanks for verifying this and the Musket

    ReplyDelete
  4. If you've got any pics could you email them to me at guitarfx at hotmail dot co dot uk. Cheers

    ReplyDelete
  5. I been building pedals and synths for a couple years now and just came across this site! It is completely awesome!! I love stripboard layouts. I can make things so much faster with them. Thank you for sharing all this. I plan on building this pedal and some others btw!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you're finding some of the content useful

      Delete
  6. hello,
    I realized this pedal but it does not work for me.
    For connections, do I connect: delay 1 to delay 2 to 3 depht and After on the pcb?
    I use a 3-pin SPST is it okay if I use one side and one in the middle?
    A big thank you for your response.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, take the wire out to Delay 1, then do a little link between Delay 1 and 2, and daisy chain out to Depth 3.

      And yes, a SPDT (single pole double throw) would be fine, and as you say use one side and the middle lug.

      Delete
    2. It works.
      When I switch off the fuzz I always hear some fuzz in the the background noise. I think it is normal that I could read?
      For the delay potentiometer must be turned in the opposite direction of hand of a watch but it's not really a problem.
      Thank you for your help and for this layout.

      Delete
  7. I just finished building this. It sounds cool, but there is a loud buzzing/dirty noise in the background at all times (except when the blend knob is turned totally toward the clean signal). The effects are all there, but the weird feedback noise is also present (even with fuzz switched off). Any ideas? :/

    ReplyDelete
  8. Built one of these and love it, amazingly versatile. Does anyone know if it would be possible to add a gain pot? As it is right now it's all on or "off" which is still a little dirty (and that's fine). I( would just like to be able to fine tune the gain when the fuzz is kicked in.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I haven't tried it so don't know what the results would be, but instead of the toggle you could always just use a potentiometer in there. I'm not sure what value would work best but just try something common like a 100K as a simple variable resistor between lugs 2 and 3.

      Delete
  9. Built mine yesterday, sounds great! I had good results with a yellow 5mm LED and one of the larger LDRs from Radio Shack. It was pretty quiet for me with the fuzz off. What a wacky effect :)

    ReplyDelete
  10. I have a general noob question: When choosing capacitors, does it matter if they're rated for 10v, 50v, 100v, etc? If so, what guiding principle should I use in choosing? Thanks for your time and wisdom.

    - Dan

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Polyester and ceramic caps tend to be rated at least 50V anyway so there's usually no problem with those. With electrolytic and tantalum caps the higher voltage rating means the caps get physically larger quite quickly and so you have to compromise between rating and size. For usual 9V circuits you'll be safe with 16V caps, if you intend to use an 18V supply then you'll need to look at 25V ratings.

      If you have plenty of room then using over-rated caps isn't a problem, you could choose 100V rated for everything and it will work fine.

      Delete
    2. Thank you. You are a gentleman and a scholar.

      Delete
  11. any advice on what value ldr should be used?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Try one of the common 1M ones.

      Delete
  12. So I've got this all built and tested it out- fuzz on it worked fine and really neat, but with fuzz off I'm not getting hardly signal except for clock noise. Any advice on how to possibly boost the clean only Clari signal?

    I will note that I didn't wrap my LED quite yet, would that be the problem?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Unless you're testing it in a closed box or a dark room then that will almost certainly be the issue.

      Delete
    2. Yeah I tested it when it was closed, and got the same issue unfortunately. Going to get a larger photoresistor, and swapped out the violet LED for a white waterclear. Hopefully that should fix things!

      Delete
  13. So I'm going to use a SPDT switch because I am all out of spst, this shouldn't lead to any problems (correct me if I'm wrong. My question is would it be beneficial to connect the extra lug to Ground? Or should I just leave it with nothing connected.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. no, it will be fine. don't have to connect the extra lug to anything.

      Delete
  14. Great site, Mark! I have made many a pedals from your layouts (and suffered from many a tired mornings from late night soldering and boxing adventures).

    I completed the clari(not) build yesterday. I found that the delay lugs can be rejigged a bit. As it is, a clockwise turn shortens the delay time, instead of lengthening it. I changed to the following:

    Row 15: Delay 2 & 3 + Depth 3
    Row 17: Delay 1 + Depth 1

    I was lucky to have the first PT2399 chip work from the get go. Now, I have 9 more PT2399 chips - any suggestions?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for the feedback, I'll update the layout.

      Seeing as you've had luck with them a Little Angel Chorus should be top of the list so you can be one of the few who it works for :o). And I'd definitely suggest a Deep Blue Delay or two!

      Delete
  15. any chance you'll do a layout for the pitch pirate soon?

    pretty please?

    ReplyDelete
  16. Is there a way to reduce the "fizz" that occurs in the delayed signal? When using the fuzz-lifted delay, the signal is pretty noiseless, but the delayed playback signal has a dirty quality. Is this just the nature of the PT2399 or the circuit, or can it be removed/cleaned up?

    ReplyDelete
  17. Is there a certain way to orient the LDR and LED? I've never done this type of effect before and I have the fuzz working fine but the vibrato part is not making any sound. I have a 5M LDR, does that matter? I have tried putting the LDR facing the side of the LED, facing the tip, had it closer, farther away, touching it, not touching it. I don't know what else to try. The LED is lighting up fine. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. the led & ldr need to either taped or enclosed in heatshrink to make sure no external light is getting to the ldr, i normally tape them together with insulating tape. Lay the led & ldr flat head to head ( doomed top of led to flat head of ldr) so that the legs of the led face the opposite direction to the legs of the ldr. put tape round it to hold them together and cut out the light. that should do it.

      Delete
    2. Thanks. I did have them taped but I didn't try the ldr flat. I will try that today since I probably wont have power tomorrow thanks to Sandy! Is the 5m ldr okay to use? A 1m was suggested but I don't know anything about ldr properties. Thanks

      Delete
    3. I still get nothing from the other side. I do have a nasty meaty fuzz but I guess I have other work to do. I swapped out the PT2399 and it was same result, so I figure my problem is before it hits the IC.

      Delete
  18. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Got it working! Sounds cool. Thanks to dexxyy for the help

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you got it going, what was wrong?

      Delete
    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
  20. Not completely sure, since I have the habit of doing 3 or 4 things before testing it. Ultimately it might have been a combination of LED/LDR wrapping, tiny solder bridges and / or incomplete cuts. It was a little more complex than I've done before, so I must be learning something. I should go play with it before the hurricane knocks out the power. Take care

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hope everything is ok for you. Keep safe!

      Delete
  21. Just boxed mine up, lots of fun. This was my first attempt at vero, and it fired up straight away, thanks for the great layout. I also did not have any loss of envelope when the fuzz was switched off as some were experiencing. I used a super bright white 5mm LED and a LDR from Tayda, I put the LED up against the LDR and then put shrink tube around them and glued the ends. I want to build a fuzz factory and a Mastatron next, but I will have to wait until Christmas vacation. (I'm a music teacher). I will post a demo on my you tube channel, if i get a chance.

    ReplyDelete
  22. I have a 10M LDR(in the dark),is that ok ?

    ReplyDelete
  23. Alright... Just built this one and apart from some vactrol socket seating issue, it fired up right away! This is one funky effect, that's for sure!

    I'm not getting the lushness that PGS is getting in their video but that could be due to the fact that I'm using a telecaster with some rather weak pickups and the LFO isn't getting excited unless I strum really hard. It could also be the vactrol itself. I've rolled it with the Tayda ldr and a superbright white led so I'll probably try a few other leds and a humbucker guitar before boxing this up.

    FWIW, the pt2399 is operating at 5.08V.


    ReplyDelete
  24. dear all, i've built this monster and it produce a sound, and fuzz but no delay's come out. when i turn my blend knobs all the way up, the sound is gone, it completely silence. what happened? any suggestions? i've probing it but i have no clue where my mistake was because the pedal still sounding. i want my delay come home. thanks before. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Knife the gaps. I've had my brushes with PT2399s that didn't work due to microscopic solder bridges. Other good candidate would be the chip itself. Have you tried swapping it?
      +m

      Delete
  25. i'm using perfboard, and yes, i've cleaned up the gaps, and resolder all the junction. boom. the pedal is working 80% now. when i turn the blend knob all the way up, the dry signal is gone. i hear only the processed signal only. i haven't checked it. any suggestion, before i clean up the layout again? thanks mirosol. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
    2. I have the exact same problem.

      Delete
    3. Recheck the order of the wires going to your blend pot, I mixed up 2&3 and it caused this to happen. I fixed that and this thing sound amazing.

      Delete
  26. Hi, can you tell me which 9V power adaptor should I use? (100mA, 200mA, 500mA...)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 100mA is fine. If you're daisy chaining pedals, get a higher mA power supply.

      Delete
  27. Does it the drain of the battery in short time?

    (If I don't use power supply)

    ReplyDelete
  28. Hi, everyone. i am having some difficulties tracking some problem on this build
    Clarinot is working fine, most of it.
    Except the other end of the blend pot. It gets distorted and low in volume, compare to the tape effect side. Any idea?
    This site rule.
    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  29. i've checked my work and the blend knob still unworking. when i turn it down, it works normally. but when i turned it up, the dry signal is gone. when i turn it half, the dry and wet signal's come out, but in a lower volume than usual. any suggestions?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's what the blend knob does. Turn it back and you only get the distortion (no delay), turn it halfway and you've got about the same amount of dry (distortion) and delay. Turn it all the way up and you have only the delay signal. The output volume does change slightly when turning the blend knob and it's normal.

      Delete
  30. oh man, i am so glad you worked this up...

    i need something to give me an excuse to make something sick, and you just gave it to me!!

    thanks IvIark and Miro!
    ;)

    pjp

    ReplyDelete
    Replies

    1. Jimmy, why don't you make two and run one into the other? Sure makes some weird noises... also worth trying is a delay into a clari, another sound I don't really know what to do with. :)

      Delete
  31. Hey, just wondering how much the LED is supposed to light up? Mine is lighting up a bit, mainly just flashes and the harder I pick the LESS it lights. I've tried one of each of the LED's I have with basically the same result(I don't have any super-bright/water-clear only diffused). LDR is 500k, I think. I also went through FIVE PT2399's before the delay worked!!!!
    It's working and sounds cool but if it can get better, I want it to!!

    Cheers, Thommo.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well, I realised I must've left my test-rig battery plugged in so I hooked a wall-wart and bingo, that was the problem!! I found a 3mm red water-clear LED that I pulled out of an old stereo and it works really well. I'll have to compare it to the PGS demo.
      My wife said 'Doesn't it do your head in hearing all those wacky sounds'!? 'No way Baby'!!! Was my reply....lol.

      Cheers, Thommo.

      Delete
    2. It's usually the dumbest things! :) Had loads of dumba** mistakes myself...
      Mine didn't care for the sound of it either. I don't know what to do with it but it sure sounds interesting.

      Delete
    3. Ha-ha yeah, well that's going to happen as long as I'm alive, I think!! I reckon how you play into this one has a huge bearing on the sounds you get.

      Thommo.

      Delete
  32. Finally got it all wired up at 2:00 am last night. Prayed to.the Fuzz Lord and it fired right up. Sounds.fine with a white LED. Thanks. And thank you Doug!

    ReplyDelete
  33. Finally got it all wired up at 2:00 am last night. Prayed to.the Fuzz Lord and it fired right up. Sounds.fine with a white LED. Thanks. And thank you Doug!

    ReplyDelete
  34. Worked like a charm on the first try. I used a red 5 mm LED and it works fine.

    ReplyDelete
  35. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  36. Made one for my buddy. Black powder coat and sweet aluminum knobs. Sounds awesome.

    http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/9607/fuk7.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  37. I'm not getting this thing to work and I can't find out why. Is there anyone kind enough to have a look at my voltage readings? The led lights up quickly when the power is connected but here are no flashing. Also the pin on the regulator reads 5.6 volts but I have tried three different with both batteries and wall warts and they all give the same reading, so I think my multimeter is the issue. Anyway, the pt2399:
    1. 5,6
    2. 2,7
    3. 0
    4. 0
    5. 3,4
    6. 2,7
    7. 5,1
    8. 0
    9. 0
    10. 0
    11. 0,7
    12. 2,7
    13. 4,8
    14. 0
    15. 0,4
    16. 4,9

    And the lm386:
    1. 1,8
    2. 0
    3. 0
    4. 0
    5. 1,8
    6. 5,9
    7. 0
    8. 0

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ==PT2399==
      1. 4.92
      2. 2.45
      3. 0
      4. 0
      5. 2.18
      6. 2.24
      7. 1.08
      8. 1.19
      9. 2.46
      10. 2.46
      11. 2.46
      12. 2.46
      13. 2.46
      14. 2.46
      15. 2.46
      16. 2.46

      ==LM386N-3==
      1. 1.30
      2. 0
      3. 0
      4. 0
      5. 2.72
      6. 7.39
      7. 3.65
      8. 1.30

      With the power disconnected, all the knobs turned fully counterclockwise, and the fuzz lift switch off, you might try troubleshooting the board using a ohm meter to make sure the rows on the far left side and the far right side don't read zero except for rows 4+5 and rows 12+13 on the far right side. If any other rows read zero, you may have a solder short somewhere in that area. Sometimes the solder shorts are so small you need a magnifying glass... at least... I need one to see them :^)

      Delete
  38. just made this with an ultra bright orange 3mm led and one of the tayda ldr's it rocks! this is one of my first delay type effects. It fired up first try. It sounds AWESOME!!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nice one! I do love it when they fire up first time :o)

      Delete
    2. yea it's the most satisfying feeling ever

      Delete
  39. flipped 2 and 3 on the blend pot !! i double checked it too . i think i picked the wrong week to stop eulg gniffins . thanks for these layouts , it was my first , but man have i stared at all of these things too many times .

    ReplyDelete
  40. I tried using 4 different LDR values to see if there was any difference. Using a 20M Ohm max. / 10k Ohm min. from jameco.com improved the dymanics considerably compared to the 500k/10k LDR from Tayda. Now the tracking knob is about 10x more responsive using this new LDR.
    jameco.com part#: 202382 .
    Mfg Part#: CDS002-9008 .
    bit.ly/MYrOCp

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's great, thanks for the info

      Delete
    2. I should also add that I used an ultra bright 5mm yellow LED from Tayda, SKU: A-1583. For my tests, a yellow LED worked better than a white LED.

      Delete
  41. At first plug in the unit worked for about 5 seconds and then the delayed signal faded out and never came back on. I've triple checked everything and cleared out the gap between the copper strips twice. Tried about 5 different 2399's.. a new 5v reg and still nothing for the delayed part. The fuzz works fine. I noticed that the LED for the LDR is not lighting up even though I tested it first. Could this actually cause the delay not to work? I thought that only messed with the pitch bending part of the circuit. Any other ideas? Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No the delay would still work. If it worked then stopped then the first thing that enters my head is cold joint or poor connection somewhere. Post all the voltages and we can see if it gives a clue where the problem area is

      Delete
  42. Hey Guys,
    I built this, but I'm having some issues with noise. It kinda of works, but the tracking doesn't really seem to do much also. The noise varies between a lot of white noise, motor boating, and random clicks and pops (especially when I'm not playing anything), and when I use the fuzz lift switch the signal is not clean, and seems almost like it's clipping (in a bad way) I've built quite a few pedals, and really tried to take my time with this watching my soldering and component placement. Here are my voltages
    Supply Voltage: 8.93

    PT2399
    Pin 1: 4.92
    Pin 2: 2.37
    Pin 3: 0.01
    Pin 4: 0.00
    Pin 5: 2.59
    Pin 6: 2.14
    Pin 7: 4.49
    Pin 8: 4.49
    Pin 9: 4.74
    Pin 10: 0.71
    Pin 11: 0.64
    Pin 12: 4.73
    Pin 13: 2.43
    Pin 14: 0.25
    Pin 15: 4.86
    Pin 16:-0.07

    Lm386
    Pin 1: 1.30
    Pin 2: 0.01
    Pin 3: 0.00
    Pin 4: 0.00
    Pin 5: 3.97
    Pin 6: 8.21
    Pin 7: 4.15
    Pin 8: 1.30

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sorted this out. I mispositioned one of the 22k resistors by one row, all good and crazy now =)

      Delete
  43. my friends, in this topic there is the clarinot deluxe, with speed control Lfo... do you know anything about this? http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4000&p=187248&hilit=clari+not+deluxe&sid=af32945ec06a79fab91a7ec9f1006a33

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I modded mine that way (frequencycentrals LFO) because my build only (fully) worked with the fuzz engaged. Without the fuzz mine was just another delay.... The mod did the trick but you have both: install a switch that switches either the LFO output or "track" lug 2 to the anode of the led.

      Delete
  44. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/AndOrNot/And%20Or%20Not%20Run%20PCB.gif

    ReplyDelete
  45. thanks heiko, and the speed control? is there in your?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. yes, the speed pot is part of the LFO circuit. You can find a tiny layout for it on page four in the thread over at fsb.... I use a 100KC.

      Delete
  46. omg, its page 7 and on diysb..... :)
    http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/CubedLFO.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  47. :) yes, thank you very much!

    ReplyDelete
  48. For those who had issues with loosing dry signal prematurely with only a partial turn of the blend knob and a hissy overtone,
    I had the same issues and after rechecking the schematic I found I had the connections to lugs 2 and 3 on the blend pot reversed. I changed it to match the layout and the problem went away leading to great effect. Just thought I would share in the hopes others could bennifit.

    ReplyDelete
  49. Looking for help.
    Would it be possible to adjust the fuzz on this circuit? I am still pretty green in my theory although I have built about 30 of these layouts successfully. I was thinking a pot in line with the fuzz lift switch but was unsure if this would be the correct placement . Any advice would be appreciated .

    ReplyDelete
  50. Dunno why nobody puts repeats on this thing.
    For anybody interested, I put the rebote delay repeat section on vero with a trimpot and stuck it between pin 16 and pin 14 behind a switch. May as well not completely waste the feature for no reason.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I know this was a while ago now and I'm not sure if anyone will see this but is there a layout for the repeat section I can use. I'm pretty new to this and its my first delay type pedal so when I looked at the rebote delay layout I had no idea how to implement the repeat section independently on a daughterboard.

      Delete
    2. It's alright, I've done it. The first thing I've worked out for myself and now I feel like some sort of genius. I'm sure when my next build doesn't work I'll be brought down a couple of pegs. Just need to drill an extra hole now for the repeats pot.

      One thing though, I've put this towards the end of my board after a drive and a couple of fuzzes and when I turn it on I lose so much top end. Is it the same for everyone else?

      Delete
    3. It's alright, I've done it. The first thing I've worked out for myself and now I feel like some sort of genius. I'm sure when my next build doesn't work I'll be brought down a couple of pegs. Just need to drill an extra hole now for the repeats pot.

      One thing though, I've put this towards the end of my board after a drive and a couple of fuzzes and when I turn it on I lose so much top end. Is it the same for everyone else?

      Delete
    4. Could anyone give me a tip on which parts of the Rebote repeats section to add between 14 and 16 for this control? Mine had 6 knobs already, may as well make it 7

      Delete
  51. Hello, suggested values for the LDR? I don't know which to buy. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. this one?
      http://www.ebay.es/itm/10-x-FOTORESISTENCIA-GL5528-Tipo-LDR-10k-1M-arduino-pic-pcb-5mm-fotorresistencia-/181573061559?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item2a46990bb7

      Delete
  52. Hi! I've built this and so far I have a few issues for which I need a little orientation:

    1- Is the effect supposed to have a high volume? when i stomp it, the volume goes thru the roof, and this makes the delay almost unusable, as they get lost in fuzzy madness. Also i got a lot of radio interference. I should note that this is when the blend knob is turned a little, when it is all the way to the left, it doesn't trouble.

    I am using a not so hot jazz bass on it, and tried it on guitar and it was the same. However, when i plugged in an old casiotone, it got pretty tamed and usable.

    2-The fuzz lift: i don't think i've got it right. when i switch to it, the clean signal gets dropped a lot, and the effect turns into a fizzy, background noise.

    I think that i've got a problem around the lm386, can this be? i'm only looking for guidance, not a specific solution, thanks!!

    ReplyDelete
  53. I join you with that.. any solution yet ? thanks

    ReplyDelete
  54. I would be glad to find a way to "clean" a bit more then unlifted signal (clean) of the effect. there seems to be a strong hiss on the processed non fuzzy signal even when the fuzz lift isnt on, as if the fuzziness is bleeding a bit to the clean signal.
    I noticed that the 100n cap between pin 13 and 14 cleans a lot of the dirt in the delay signal. I was lucky enough to socket those caps and At first I had a polyester and later on I switched to a greenie which improved just a tiny bit.
    I am after a cleaner processed signal (when the fuzz lift isn't on)
    Also a fuzz knob to set the gain + a fuzz lift would be nice. So far I've read on the possibility to exchange the switch with a pot and Im not aiming this

    thank's a lot and this website is amazing! a brand new world ! who thought a 27 year old can feel like a 5 year old playing with lego?! :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I've just made a couple small mods to mine. To add control to the fuzz, I put a 500 ohm pot in line with the fuzz lift switch. I also replaced the toggle with a stomp. The pot works well but due to the volume jump, I can't say the fuzz lift stomp is very useful.
      In addition I made a tiny daughter board with a 100K trimmer and put it line with the input (between the bypass and board) This has helped clean up the signal quite a bit as I had the same distortion issue Twintoe mentioned above.

      Hope this can help somebody.

      Delete
    2. Would you be willing to elaborate on where exactly to wire a pot to add the fuzz control? Would I just use two of the lugs on the pot? Where exactly would the connections be made?

      Delete
  55. I have two spare DPDT switches to play with in the enclosure i'm using. Any suggestions?!?

    ReplyDelete
  56. Well I built this and was getting really poor response out of it, and it was kind of thin sounding.. so I switched to a 10M ldr and that made a huuuuge difference. The effect came alive. I've still got the LDR and Led in a dark tube on the breadboard, and it seems to be really responsive with orange, red, blue, pink and even UV water clears. I'll post again on the final setup.

    ReplyDelete
  57. I just wanna say thanks for the writer and wish you all the best for coming!
    used test equipment

    ReplyDelete
  58. still not getting it. connecting all the grounds together kills the sound totally, even though the vol pots are up. led is blinking...dont understand why when i change the LM386 it stop working. still very buggy.. wish I knew what to check. any ideas? maybe its the LDR that I'm using. ....

    ReplyDelete
  59. should I be connecting all the grounds together including the input and output gnds? connecting the in and out gnds, kills the sound totally, and without, sound is pass through and some kind of effect is going on. Turning the volume, track and blend, effects the sound, but on the delay side, a little delay not very specially long. fuzz doesn't seem to work.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, all the grounds should be connected together.

      It's likely that there's some other problem with your circuit... my guess is a short between ground and 9v somewhere (which is why it would seem to be working when they're not all connected together).

      Delete
  60. Hello there,
    I see I'm not the only one having white noise on the repeats..
    Is there a way to obtain clean repeats with oscillations? led/ldr combinations ideas maybe?
    And does anyone knows if it's possible to have the lfo working on the dry path, not only the repeats?
    This is a funny pedal, I like the way it reacts at the velocity! Thanks for the schematics!

    ReplyDelete