Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
This is a layout for the Mid-Fi Electronics delay/fuzz/vibrato/modulation/unstable tape simulator/weird noise thing. Modified to include a switch to turn off the fuzz, leaving you with a clean weird noise thing :o)
I been building pedals and synths for a couple years now and just came across this site! It is completely awesome!! I love stripboard layouts. I can make things so much faster with them. Thank you for sharing all this. I plan on building this pedal and some others btw!
hello, I realized this pedal but it does not work for me. For connections, do I connect: delay 1 to delay 2 to 3 depht and After on the pcb? I use a 3-pin SPST is it okay if I use one side and one in the middle? A big thank you for your response.
It works. When I switch off the fuzz I always hear some fuzz in the the background noise. I think it is normal that I could read? For the delay potentiometer must be turned in the opposite direction of hand of a watch but it's not really a problem. Thank you for your help and for this layout.
I just finished building this. It sounds cool, but there is a loud buzzing/dirty noise in the background at all times (except when the blend knob is turned totally toward the clean signal). The effects are all there, but the weird feedback noise is also present (even with fuzz switched off). Any ideas? :/
Built one of these and love it, amazingly versatile. Does anyone know if it would be possible to add a gain pot? As it is right now it's all on or "off" which is still a little dirty (and that's fine). I( would just like to be able to fine tune the gain when the fuzz is kicked in.
I haven't tried it so don't know what the results would be, but instead of the toggle you could always just use a potentiometer in there. I'm not sure what value would work best but just try something common like a 100K as a simple variable resistor between lugs 2 and 3.
Built mine yesterday, sounds great! I had good results with a yellow 5mm LED and one of the larger LDRs from Radio Shack. It was pretty quiet for me with the fuzz off. What a wacky effect :)
I have a general noob question: When choosing capacitors, does it matter if they're rated for 10v, 50v, 100v, etc? If so, what guiding principle should I use in choosing? Thanks for your time and wisdom.
Polyester and ceramic caps tend to be rated at least 50V anyway so there's usually no problem with those. With electrolytic and tantalum caps the higher voltage rating means the caps get physically larger quite quickly and so you have to compromise between rating and size. For usual 9V circuits you'll be safe with 16V caps, if you intend to use an 18V supply then you'll need to look at 25V ratings.
If you have plenty of room then using over-rated caps isn't a problem, you could choose 100V rated for everything and it will work fine.
So I've got this all built and tested it out- fuzz on it worked fine and really neat, but with fuzz off I'm not getting hardly signal except for clock noise. Any advice on how to possibly boost the clean only Clari signal?
I will note that I didn't wrap my LED quite yet, would that be the problem?
Yeah I tested it when it was closed, and got the same issue unfortunately. Going to get a larger photoresistor, and swapped out the violet LED for a white waterclear. Hopefully that should fix things!
So I'm going to use a SPDT switch because I am all out of spst, this shouldn't lead to any problems (correct me if I'm wrong. My question is would it be beneficial to connect the extra lug to Ground? Or should I just leave it with nothing connected.
Great site, Mark! I have made many a pedals from your layouts (and suffered from many a tired mornings from late night soldering and boxing adventures).
I completed the clari(not) build yesterday. I found that the delay lugs can be rejigged a bit. As it is, a clockwise turn shortens the delay time, instead of lengthening it. I changed to the following:
Seeing as you've had luck with them a Little Angel Chorus should be top of the list so you can be one of the few who it works for :o). And I'd definitely suggest a Deep Blue Delay or two!
Is there a way to reduce the "fizz" that occurs in the delayed signal? When using the fuzz-lifted delay, the signal is pretty noiseless, but the delayed playback signal has a dirty quality. Is this just the nature of the PT2399 or the circuit, or can it be removed/cleaned up?
Is there a certain way to orient the LDR and LED? I've never done this type of effect before and I have the fuzz working fine but the vibrato part is not making any sound. I have a 5M LDR, does that matter? I have tried putting the LDR facing the side of the LED, facing the tip, had it closer, farther away, touching it, not touching it. I don't know what else to try. The LED is lighting up fine. Thanks
the led & ldr need to either taped or enclosed in heatshrink to make sure no external light is getting to the ldr, i normally tape them together with insulating tape. Lay the led & ldr flat head to head ( doomed top of led to flat head of ldr) so that the legs of the led face the opposite direction to the legs of the ldr. put tape round it to hold them together and cut out the light. that should do it.
Thanks. I did have them taped but I didn't try the ldr flat. I will try that today since I probably wont have power tomorrow thanks to Sandy! Is the 5m ldr okay to use? A 1m was suggested but I don't know anything about ldr properties. Thanks
I still get nothing from the other side. I do have a nasty meaty fuzz but I guess I have other work to do. I swapped out the PT2399 and it was same result, so I figure my problem is before it hits the IC.
Not completely sure, since I have the habit of doing 3 or 4 things before testing it. Ultimately it might have been a combination of LED/LDR wrapping, tiny solder bridges and / or incomplete cuts. It was a little more complex than I've done before, so I must be learning something. I should go play with it before the hurricane knocks out the power. Take care
Just boxed mine up, lots of fun. This was my first attempt at vero, and it fired up straight away, thanks for the great layout. I also did not have any loss of envelope when the fuzz was switched off as some were experiencing. I used a super bright white 5mm LED and a LDR from Tayda, I put the LED up against the LDR and then put shrink tube around them and glued the ends. I want to build a fuzz factory and a Mastatron next, but I will have to wait until Christmas vacation. (I'm a music teacher). I will post a demo on my you tube channel, if i get a chance.
Alright... Just built this one and apart from some vactrol socket seating issue, it fired up right away! This is one funky effect, that's for sure!
I'm not getting the lushness that PGS is getting in their video but that could be due to the fact that I'm using a telecaster with some rather weak pickups and the LFO isn't getting excited unless I strum really hard. It could also be the vactrol itself. I've rolled it with the Tayda ldr and a superbright white led so I'll probably try a few other leds and a humbucker guitar before boxing this up.
dear all, i've built this monster and it produce a sound, and fuzz but no delay's come out. when i turn my blend knobs all the way up, the sound is gone, it completely silence. what happened? any suggestions? i've probing it but i have no clue where my mistake was because the pedal still sounding. i want my delay come home. thanks before. :)
Knife the gaps. I've had my brushes with PT2399s that didn't work due to microscopic solder bridges. Other good candidate would be the chip itself. Have you tried swapping it? +m
i'm using perfboard, and yes, i've cleaned up the gaps, and resolder all the junction. boom. the pedal is working 80% now. when i turn the blend knob all the way up, the dry signal is gone. i hear only the processed signal only. i haven't checked it. any suggestion, before i clean up the layout again? thanks mirosol. :)
Hi, everyone. i am having some difficulties tracking some problem on this build Clarinot is working fine, most of it. Except the other end of the blend pot. It gets distorted and low in volume, compare to the tape effect side. Any idea? This site rule. Thanks.
i've checked my work and the blend knob still unworking. when i turn it down, it works normally. but when i turned it up, the dry signal is gone. when i turn it half, the dry and wet signal's come out, but in a lower volume than usual. any suggestions?
That's what the blend knob does. Turn it back and you only get the distortion (no delay), turn it halfway and you've got about the same amount of dry (distortion) and delay. Turn it all the way up and you have only the delay signal. The output volume does change slightly when turning the blend knob and it's normal.
Jimmy, why don't you make two and run one into the other? Sure makes some weird noises... also worth trying is a delay into a clari, another sound I don't really know what to do with. :)
Hey, just wondering how much the LED is supposed to light up? Mine is lighting up a bit, mainly just flashes and the harder I pick the LESS it lights. I've tried one of each of the LED's I have with basically the same result(I don't have any super-bright/water-clear only diffused). LDR is 500k, I think. I also went through FIVE PT2399's before the delay worked!!!! It's working and sounds cool but if it can get better, I want it to!!
Well, I realised I must've left my test-rig battery plugged in so I hooked a wall-wart and bingo, that was the problem!! I found a 3mm red water-clear LED that I pulled out of an old stereo and it works really well. I'll have to compare it to the PGS demo. My wife said 'Doesn't it do your head in hearing all those wacky sounds'!? 'No way Baby'!!! Was my reply....lol.
It's usually the dumbest things! :) Had loads of dumba** mistakes myself... Mine didn't care for the sound of it either. I don't know what to do with it but it sure sounds interesting.
Finally got it all wired up at 2:00 am last night. Prayed to.the Fuzz Lord and it fired right up. Sounds.fine with a white LED. Thanks. And thank you Doug!
Finally got it all wired up at 2:00 am last night. Prayed to.the Fuzz Lord and it fired right up. Sounds.fine with a white LED. Thanks. And thank you Doug!
I'm not getting this thing to work and I can't find out why. Is there anyone kind enough to have a look at my voltage readings? The led lights up quickly when the power is connected but here are no flashing. Also the pin on the regulator reads 5.6 volts but I have tried three different with both batteries and wall warts and they all give the same reading, so I think my multimeter is the issue. Anyway, the pt2399: 1. 5,6 2. 2,7 3. 0 4. 0 5. 3,4 6. 2,7 7. 5,1 8. 0 9. 0 10. 0 11. 0,7 12. 2,7 13. 4,8 14. 0 15. 0,4 16. 4,9
And the lm386: 1. 1,8 2. 0 3. 0 4. 0 5. 1,8 6. 5,9 7. 0 8. 0
With the power disconnected, all the knobs turned fully counterclockwise, and the fuzz lift switch off, you might try troubleshooting the board using a ohm meter to make sure the rows on the far left side and the far right side don't read zero except for rows 4+5 and rows 12+13 on the far right side. If any other rows read zero, you may have a solder short somewhere in that area. Sometimes the solder shorts are so small you need a magnifying glass... at least... I need one to see them :^)
just made this with an ultra bright orange 3mm led and one of the tayda ldr's it rocks! this is one of my first delay type effects. It fired up first try. It sounds AWESOME!!!!
flipped 2 and 3 on the blend pot !! i double checked it too . i think i picked the wrong week to stop eulg gniffins . thanks for these layouts , it was my first , but man have i stared at all of these things too many times .
I tried using 4 different LDR values to see if there was any difference. Using a 20M Ohm max. / 10k Ohm min. from jameco.com improved the dymanics considerably compared to the 500k/10k LDR from Tayda. Now the tracking knob is about 10x more responsive using this new LDR. jameco.com part#: 202382 . Mfg Part#: CDS002-9008 . bit.ly/MYrOCp
At first plug in the unit worked for about 5 seconds and then the delayed signal faded out and never came back on. I've triple checked everything and cleared out the gap between the copper strips twice. Tried about 5 different 2399's.. a new 5v reg and still nothing for the delayed part. The fuzz works fine. I noticed that the LED for the LDR is not lighting up even though I tested it first. Could this actually cause the delay not to work? I thought that only messed with the pitch bending part of the circuit. Any other ideas? Thanks.
No the delay would still work. If it worked then stopped then the first thing that enters my head is cold joint or poor connection somewhere. Post all the voltages and we can see if it gives a clue where the problem area is
Hey Guys, I built this, but I'm having some issues with noise. It kinda of works, but the tracking doesn't really seem to do much also. The noise varies between a lot of white noise, motor boating, and random clicks and pops (especially when I'm not playing anything), and when I use the fuzz lift switch the signal is not clean, and seems almost like it's clipping (in a bad way) I've built quite a few pedals, and really tried to take my time with this watching my soldering and component placement. Here are my voltages Supply Voltage: 8.93
my friends, in this topic there is the clarinot deluxe, with speed control Lfo... do you know anything about this? http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4000&p=187248&hilit=clari+not+deluxe&sid=af32945ec06a79fab91a7ec9f1006a33
I modded mine that way (frequencycentrals LFO) because my build only (fully) worked with the fuzz engaged. Without the fuzz mine was just another delay.... The mod did the trick but you have both: install a switch that switches either the LFO output or "track" lug 2 to the anode of the led.
For those who had issues with loosing dry signal prematurely with only a partial turn of the blend knob and a hissy overtone, I had the same issues and after rechecking the schematic I found I had the connections to lugs 2 and 3 on the blend pot reversed. I changed it to match the layout and the problem went away leading to great effect. Just thought I would share in the hopes others could bennifit.
Looking for help. Would it be possible to adjust the fuzz on this circuit? I am still pretty green in my theory although I have built about 30 of these layouts successfully. I was thinking a pot in line with the fuzz lift switch but was unsure if this would be the correct placement . Any advice would be appreciated .
Dunno why nobody puts repeats on this thing. For anybody interested, I put the rebote delay repeat section on vero with a trimpot and stuck it between pin 16 and pin 14 behind a switch. May as well not completely waste the feature for no reason.
I know this was a while ago now and I'm not sure if anyone will see this but is there a layout for the repeat section I can use. I'm pretty new to this and its my first delay type pedal so when I looked at the rebote delay layout I had no idea how to implement the repeat section independently on a daughterboard.
It's alright, I've done it. The first thing I've worked out for myself and now I feel like some sort of genius. I'm sure when my next build doesn't work I'll be brought down a couple of pegs. Just need to drill an extra hole now for the repeats pot.
One thing though, I've put this towards the end of my board after a drive and a couple of fuzzes and when I turn it on I lose so much top end. Is it the same for everyone else?
It's alright, I've done it. The first thing I've worked out for myself and now I feel like some sort of genius. I'm sure when my next build doesn't work I'll be brought down a couple of pegs. Just need to drill an extra hole now for the repeats pot.
One thing though, I've put this towards the end of my board after a drive and a couple of fuzzes and when I turn it on I lose so much top end. Is it the same for everyone else?
Could anyone give me a tip on which parts of the Rebote repeats section to add between 14 and 16 for this control? Mine had 6 knobs already, may as well make it 7
this one? http://www.ebay.es/itm/10-x-FOTORESISTENCIA-GL5528-Tipo-LDR-10k-1M-arduino-pic-pcb-5mm-fotorresistencia-/181573061559?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item2a46990bb7
Hi! I've built this and so far I have a few issues for which I need a little orientation:
1- Is the effect supposed to have a high volume? when i stomp it, the volume goes thru the roof, and this makes the delay almost unusable, as they get lost in fuzzy madness. Also i got a lot of radio interference. I should note that this is when the blend knob is turned a little, when it is all the way to the left, it doesn't trouble.
I am using a not so hot jazz bass on it, and tried it on guitar and it was the same. However, when i plugged in an old casiotone, it got pretty tamed and usable.
2-The fuzz lift: i don't think i've got it right. when i switch to it, the clean signal gets dropped a lot, and the effect turns into a fizzy, background noise.
I think that i've got a problem around the lm386, can this be? i'm only looking for guidance, not a specific solution, thanks!!
I would be glad to find a way to "clean" a bit more then unlifted signal (clean) of the effect. there seems to be a strong hiss on the processed non fuzzy signal even when the fuzz lift isnt on, as if the fuzziness is bleeding a bit to the clean signal. I noticed that the 100n cap between pin 13 and 14 cleans a lot of the dirt in the delay signal. I was lucky enough to socket those caps and At first I had a polyester and later on I switched to a greenie which improved just a tiny bit. I am after a cleaner processed signal (when the fuzz lift isn't on) Also a fuzz knob to set the gain + a fuzz lift would be nice. So far I've read on the possibility to exchange the switch with a pot and Im not aiming this
thank's a lot and this website is amazing! a brand new world ! who thought a 27 year old can feel like a 5 year old playing with lego?! :D
I've just made a couple small mods to mine. To add control to the fuzz, I put a 500 ohm pot in line with the fuzz lift switch. I also replaced the toggle with a stomp. The pot works well but due to the volume jump, I can't say the fuzz lift stomp is very useful. In addition I made a tiny daughter board with a 100K trimmer and put it line with the input (between the bypass and board) This has helped clean up the signal quite a bit as I had the same distortion issue Twintoe mentioned above.
Would you be willing to elaborate on where exactly to wire a pot to add the fuzz control? Would I just use two of the lugs on the pot? Where exactly would the connections be made?
Well I built this and was getting really poor response out of it, and it was kind of thin sounding.. so I switched to a 10M ldr and that made a huuuuge difference. The effect came alive. I've still got the LDR and Led in a dark tube on the breadboard, and it seems to be really responsive with orange, red, blue, pink and even UV water clears. I'll post again on the final setup.
still not getting it. connecting all the grounds together kills the sound totally, even though the vol pots are up. led is blinking...dont understand why when i change the LM386 it stop working. still very buggy.. wish I knew what to check. any ideas? maybe its the LDR that I'm using. ....
should I be connecting all the grounds together including the input and output gnds? connecting the in and out gnds, kills the sound totally, and without, sound is pass through and some kind of effect is going on. Turning the volume, track and blend, effects the sound, but on the delay side, a little delay not very specially long. fuzz doesn't seem to work.
Yes, all the grounds should be connected together.
It's likely that there's some other problem with your circuit... my guess is a short between ground and 9v somewhere (which is why it would seem to be working when they're not all connected together).
This effect languished without a box for a year or two, and I finally revisited it and boxed it. You can run the negative side of the main led to a DPDT switch for the cubed LFO mod, and have one side go right back to the negative side on the main board, and then the other side of the switch goes through another led in series and back to the board negative. Gives you a rate led for the LFO, plus with the included trimmer you can adjust it to ideal brightness for any led. It works great and looks dope. -Brett
sounds good ! can you maybe do a little drawing that shows this mod ? having hard time understanding from the explanation (like always) layouts are just the most obvious guidlines :) thanks !!!!
I built it, the delay is working correctly, and the modulation with the LDR is working, however my led is not lighting up at all. The voltage across the led terminals never goes above 0.1V or so on a hard strum, not enough to cause the led to light up or interact with the LDR. Any ideas on what could be going wrong? Thanks!
Everything seems to be working as normal, but my LED will not light up at all. The LDR works great when I move my hand in front of it while testing, but the LED will not light up and seems to have no voltage whatsoever ever. I know it lights up outside the circuit and I've tried others. My track pot has the correct resistance. Any ideas??
I had this same issue. What LDR did you use? Did you see the notes above by The_Peddler about using a 20M/10k LDR with ultra bright 5mm yellow LED? Once I used this LDR it worked great.
I had this same issue. What LDR did you use? Did you see the notes above by The_Peddler about using a 20M/10k LDR with ultra bright 5mm yellow LED? Once I used this LDR it worked great.
Sorry. My bad. The LDR I used improved TRACKING, not DEPTH. Anywho, it's definitely a recommended LDR to use. Works best with an ultra bright 5mm yellow LED from Tayda, SKU: A-1583. Who knows... might even improve the DEPTH.
I've just finished building this pedal and found some wiring issues.
If you follow the diagram, DELAY POT and TRACK POT work in opposite way. Turn the delay pot clockwise, you get faster delay time. Turn the track pot clockwise, you get weaker tracking. It's quite unuseful if you are familiar with other pedals on the market.
You can get them right with the following modifications;
Ah, gotta love the Clari(not)one of my favourite effects. ;0)
ReplyDeleteAwesome effect! I've got it all assembled...just waiting on the ICs to arrive. Will let you know how it works once I fire it up.
ReplyDeleteDone and verified...very cool effect!
DeleteExcellent, thanks for verifying this and the Musket
ReplyDeleteIf you've got any pics could you email them to me at guitarfx at hotmail dot co dot uk. Cheers
ReplyDeleteI been building pedals and synths for a couple years now and just came across this site! It is completely awesome!! I love stripboard layouts. I can make things so much faster with them. Thank you for sharing all this. I plan on building this pedal and some others btw!
ReplyDeleteGlad you're finding some of the content useful
Deletehello,
ReplyDeleteI realized this pedal but it does not work for me.
For connections, do I connect: delay 1 to delay 2 to 3 depht and After on the pcb?
I use a 3-pin SPST is it okay if I use one side and one in the middle?
A big thank you for your response.
Yes, take the wire out to Delay 1, then do a little link between Delay 1 and 2, and daisy chain out to Depth 3.
DeleteAnd yes, a SPDT (single pole double throw) would be fine, and as you say use one side and the middle lug.
I will try thank you
DeleteIt works.
DeleteWhen I switch off the fuzz I always hear some fuzz in the the background noise. I think it is normal that I could read?
For the delay potentiometer must be turned in the opposite direction of hand of a watch but it's not really a problem.
Thank you for your help and for this layout.
I just finished building this. It sounds cool, but there is a loud buzzing/dirty noise in the background at all times (except when the blend knob is turned totally toward the clean signal). The effects are all there, but the weird feedback noise is also present (even with fuzz switched off). Any ideas? :/
ReplyDeleteBuilt one of these and love it, amazingly versatile. Does anyone know if it would be possible to add a gain pot? As it is right now it's all on or "off" which is still a little dirty (and that's fine). I( would just like to be able to fine tune the gain when the fuzz is kicked in.
ReplyDeleteI haven't tried it so don't know what the results would be, but instead of the toggle you could always just use a potentiometer in there. I'm not sure what value would work best but just try something common like a 100K as a simple variable resistor between lugs 2 and 3.
DeleteBuilt mine yesterday, sounds great! I had good results with a yellow 5mm LED and one of the larger LDRs from Radio Shack. It was pretty quiet for me with the fuzz off. What a wacky effect :)
ReplyDeleteI have a general noob question: When choosing capacitors, does it matter if they're rated for 10v, 50v, 100v, etc? If so, what guiding principle should I use in choosing? Thanks for your time and wisdom.
ReplyDelete- Dan
Polyester and ceramic caps tend to be rated at least 50V anyway so there's usually no problem with those. With electrolytic and tantalum caps the higher voltage rating means the caps get physically larger quite quickly and so you have to compromise between rating and size. For usual 9V circuits you'll be safe with 16V caps, if you intend to use an 18V supply then you'll need to look at 25V ratings.
DeleteIf you have plenty of room then using over-rated caps isn't a problem, you could choose 100V rated for everything and it will work fine.
Thank you. You are a gentleman and a scholar.
Deleteany advice on what value ldr should be used?
ReplyDeleteTry one of the common 1M ones.
DeleteSo I've got this all built and tested it out- fuzz on it worked fine and really neat, but with fuzz off I'm not getting hardly signal except for clock noise. Any advice on how to possibly boost the clean only Clari signal?
ReplyDeleteI will note that I didn't wrap my LED quite yet, would that be the problem?
Unless you're testing it in a closed box or a dark room then that will almost certainly be the issue.
DeleteYeah I tested it when it was closed, and got the same issue unfortunately. Going to get a larger photoresistor, and swapped out the violet LED for a white waterclear. Hopefully that should fix things!
DeleteSo I'm going to use a SPDT switch because I am all out of spst, this shouldn't lead to any problems (correct me if I'm wrong. My question is would it be beneficial to connect the extra lug to Ground? Or should I just leave it with nothing connected.
ReplyDeleteno, it will be fine. don't have to connect the extra lug to anything.
DeleteGreat site, Mark! I have made many a pedals from your layouts (and suffered from many a tired mornings from late night soldering and boxing adventures).
ReplyDeleteI completed the clari(not) build yesterday. I found that the delay lugs can be rejigged a bit. As it is, a clockwise turn shortens the delay time, instead of lengthening it. I changed to the following:
Row 15: Delay 2 & 3 + Depth 3
Row 17: Delay 1 + Depth 1
I was lucky to have the first PT2399 chip work from the get go. Now, I have 9 more PT2399 chips - any suggestions?
Thanks for the feedback, I'll update the layout.
DeleteSeeing as you've had luck with them a Little Angel Chorus should be top of the list so you can be one of the few who it works for :o). And I'd definitely suggest a Deep Blue Delay or two!
any chance you'll do a layout for the pitch pirate soon?
ReplyDeletepretty please?
Is there a way to reduce the "fizz" that occurs in the delayed signal? When using the fuzz-lifted delay, the signal is pretty noiseless, but the delayed playback signal has a dirty quality. Is this just the nature of the PT2399 or the circuit, or can it be removed/cleaned up?
ReplyDeleteIs there a certain way to orient the LDR and LED? I've never done this type of effect before and I have the fuzz working fine but the vibrato part is not making any sound. I have a 5M LDR, does that matter? I have tried putting the LDR facing the side of the LED, facing the tip, had it closer, farther away, touching it, not touching it. I don't know what else to try. The LED is lighting up fine. Thanks
ReplyDeletethe led & ldr need to either taped or enclosed in heatshrink to make sure no external light is getting to the ldr, i normally tape them together with insulating tape. Lay the led & ldr flat head to head ( doomed top of led to flat head of ldr) so that the legs of the led face the opposite direction to the legs of the ldr. put tape round it to hold them together and cut out the light. that should do it.
DeleteThanks. I did have them taped but I didn't try the ldr flat. I will try that today since I probably wont have power tomorrow thanks to Sandy! Is the 5m ldr okay to use? A 1m was suggested but I don't know anything about ldr properties. Thanks
DeleteI still get nothing from the other side. I do have a nasty meaty fuzz but I guess I have other work to do. I swapped out the PT2399 and it was same result, so I figure my problem is before it hits the IC.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteGot it working! Sounds cool. Thanks to dexxyy for the help
ReplyDeleteGlad you got it going, what was wrong?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteNot completely sure, since I have the habit of doing 3 or 4 things before testing it. Ultimately it might have been a combination of LED/LDR wrapping, tiny solder bridges and / or incomplete cuts. It was a little more complex than I've done before, so I must be learning something. I should go play with it before the hurricane knocks out the power. Take care
ReplyDeleteHope everything is ok for you. Keep safe!
DeleteJust boxed mine up, lots of fun. This was my first attempt at vero, and it fired up straight away, thanks for the great layout. I also did not have any loss of envelope when the fuzz was switched off as some were experiencing. I used a super bright white 5mm LED and a LDR from Tayda, I put the LED up against the LDR and then put shrink tube around them and glued the ends. I want to build a fuzz factory and a Mastatron next, but I will have to wait until Christmas vacation. (I'm a music teacher). I will post a demo on my you tube channel, if i get a chance.
ReplyDeleteI have a 10M LDR(in the dark),is that ok ?
ReplyDeleteAlright... Just built this one and apart from some vactrol socket seating issue, it fired up right away! This is one funky effect, that's for sure!
ReplyDeleteI'm not getting the lushness that PGS is getting in their video but that could be due to the fact that I'm using a telecaster with some rather weak pickups and the LFO isn't getting excited unless I strum really hard. It could also be the vactrol itself. I've rolled it with the Tayda ldr and a superbright white led so I'll probably try a few other leds and a humbucker guitar before boxing this up.
FWIW, the pt2399 is operating at 5.08V.
dear all, i've built this monster and it produce a sound, and fuzz but no delay's come out. when i turn my blend knobs all the way up, the sound is gone, it completely silence. what happened? any suggestions? i've probing it but i have no clue where my mistake was because the pedal still sounding. i want my delay come home. thanks before. :)
ReplyDeleteKnife the gaps. I've had my brushes with PT2399s that didn't work due to microscopic solder bridges. Other good candidate would be the chip itself. Have you tried swapping it?
Delete+m
i'm using perfboard, and yes, i've cleaned up the gaps, and resolder all the junction. boom. the pedal is working 80% now. when i turn the blend knob all the way up, the dry signal is gone. i hear only the processed signal only. i haven't checked it. any suggestion, before i clean up the layout again? thanks mirosol. :)
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteI have the exact same problem.
DeleteRecheck the order of the wires going to your blend pot, I mixed up 2&3 and it caused this to happen. I fixed that and this thing sound amazing.
DeleteHi, can you tell me which 9V power adaptor should I use? (100mA, 200mA, 500mA...)
ReplyDelete100mA is fine. If you're daisy chaining pedals, get a higher mA power supply.
DeleteThank you Geiri!
DeleteDoes it the drain of the battery in short time?
ReplyDelete(If I don't use power supply)
Hi, everyone. i am having some difficulties tracking some problem on this build
ReplyDeleteClarinot is working fine, most of it.
Except the other end of the blend pot. It gets distorted and low in volume, compare to the tape effect side. Any idea?
This site rule.
Thanks.
i've checked my work and the blend knob still unworking. when i turn it down, it works normally. but when i turned it up, the dry signal is gone. when i turn it half, the dry and wet signal's come out, but in a lower volume than usual. any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteThat's what the blend knob does. Turn it back and you only get the distortion (no delay), turn it halfway and you've got about the same amount of dry (distortion) and delay. Turn it all the way up and you have only the delay signal. The output volume does change slightly when turning the blend knob and it's normal.
Deleteoh man, i am so glad you worked this up...
ReplyDeletei need something to give me an excuse to make something sick, and you just gave it to me!!
thanks IvIark and Miro!
;)
pjp
DeleteJimmy, why don't you make two and run one into the other? Sure makes some weird noises... also worth trying is a delay into a clari, another sound I don't really know what to do with. :)
Hey, just wondering how much the LED is supposed to light up? Mine is lighting up a bit, mainly just flashes and the harder I pick the LESS it lights. I've tried one of each of the LED's I have with basically the same result(I don't have any super-bright/water-clear only diffused). LDR is 500k, I think. I also went through FIVE PT2399's before the delay worked!!!!
ReplyDeleteIt's working and sounds cool but if it can get better, I want it to!!
Cheers, Thommo.
Well, I realised I must've left my test-rig battery plugged in so I hooked a wall-wart and bingo, that was the problem!! I found a 3mm red water-clear LED that I pulled out of an old stereo and it works really well. I'll have to compare it to the PGS demo.
DeleteMy wife said 'Doesn't it do your head in hearing all those wacky sounds'!? 'No way Baby'!!! Was my reply....lol.
Cheers, Thommo.
It's usually the dumbest things! :) Had loads of dumba** mistakes myself...
DeleteMine didn't care for the sound of it either. I don't know what to do with it but it sure sounds interesting.
Ha-ha yeah, well that's going to happen as long as I'm alive, I think!! I reckon how you play into this one has a huge bearing on the sounds you get.
DeleteThommo.
Finally got it all wired up at 2:00 am last night. Prayed to.the Fuzz Lord and it fired right up. Sounds.fine with a white LED. Thanks. And thank you Doug!
ReplyDeleteFinally got it all wired up at 2:00 am last night. Prayed to.the Fuzz Lord and it fired right up. Sounds.fine with a white LED. Thanks. And thank you Doug!
ReplyDeleteWorked like a charm on the first try. I used a red 5 mm LED and it works fine.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteMade one for my buddy. Black powder coat and sweet aluminum knobs. Sounds awesome.
ReplyDeletehttp://img607.imageshack.us/img607/9607/fuk7.jpg
I'm not getting this thing to work and I can't find out why. Is there anyone kind enough to have a look at my voltage readings? The led lights up quickly when the power is connected but here are no flashing. Also the pin on the regulator reads 5.6 volts but I have tried three different with both batteries and wall warts and they all give the same reading, so I think my multimeter is the issue. Anyway, the pt2399:
ReplyDelete1. 5,6
2. 2,7
3. 0
4. 0
5. 3,4
6. 2,7
7. 5,1
8. 0
9. 0
10. 0
11. 0,7
12. 2,7
13. 4,8
14. 0
15. 0,4
16. 4,9
And the lm386:
1. 1,8
2. 0
3. 0
4. 0
5. 1,8
6. 5,9
7. 0
8. 0
Anyone?
Delete==PT2399==
Delete1. 4.92
2. 2.45
3. 0
4. 0
5. 2.18
6. 2.24
7. 1.08
8. 1.19
9. 2.46
10. 2.46
11. 2.46
12. 2.46
13. 2.46
14. 2.46
15. 2.46
16. 2.46
==LM386N-3==
1. 1.30
2. 0
3. 0
4. 0
5. 2.72
6. 7.39
7. 3.65
8. 1.30
With the power disconnected, all the knobs turned fully counterclockwise, and the fuzz lift switch off, you might try troubleshooting the board using a ohm meter to make sure the rows on the far left side and the far right side don't read zero except for rows 4+5 and rows 12+13 on the far right side. If any other rows read zero, you may have a solder short somewhere in that area. Sometimes the solder shorts are so small you need a magnifying glass... at least... I need one to see them :^)
just made this with an ultra bright orange 3mm led and one of the tayda ldr's it rocks! this is one of my first delay type effects. It fired up first try. It sounds AWESOME!!!!
ReplyDeleteNice one! I do love it when they fire up first time :o)
Deleteyea it's the most satisfying feeling ever
Deleteflipped 2 and 3 on the blend pot !! i double checked it too . i think i picked the wrong week to stop eulg gniffins . thanks for these layouts , it was my first , but man have i stared at all of these things too many times .
ReplyDeleteI tried using 4 different LDR values to see if there was any difference. Using a 20M Ohm max. / 10k Ohm min. from jameco.com improved the dymanics considerably compared to the 500k/10k LDR from Tayda. Now the tracking knob is about 10x more responsive using this new LDR.
ReplyDeletejameco.com part#: 202382 .
Mfg Part#: CDS002-9008 .
bit.ly/MYrOCp
That's great, thanks for the info
DeleteI should also add that I used an ultra bright 5mm yellow LED from Tayda, SKU: A-1583. For my tests, a yellow LED worked better than a white LED.
DeleteAt first plug in the unit worked for about 5 seconds and then the delayed signal faded out and never came back on. I've triple checked everything and cleared out the gap between the copper strips twice. Tried about 5 different 2399's.. a new 5v reg and still nothing for the delayed part. The fuzz works fine. I noticed that the LED for the LDR is not lighting up even though I tested it first. Could this actually cause the delay not to work? I thought that only messed with the pitch bending part of the circuit. Any other ideas? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteNo the delay would still work. If it worked then stopped then the first thing that enters my head is cold joint or poor connection somewhere. Post all the voltages and we can see if it gives a clue where the problem area is
DeleteHey Guys,
ReplyDeleteI built this, but I'm having some issues with noise. It kinda of works, but the tracking doesn't really seem to do much also. The noise varies between a lot of white noise, motor boating, and random clicks and pops (especially when I'm not playing anything), and when I use the fuzz lift switch the signal is not clean, and seems almost like it's clipping (in a bad way) I've built quite a few pedals, and really tried to take my time with this watching my soldering and component placement. Here are my voltages
Supply Voltage: 8.93
PT2399
Pin 1: 4.92
Pin 2: 2.37
Pin 3: 0.01
Pin 4: 0.00
Pin 5: 2.59
Pin 6: 2.14
Pin 7: 4.49
Pin 8: 4.49
Pin 9: 4.74
Pin 10: 0.71
Pin 11: 0.64
Pin 12: 4.73
Pin 13: 2.43
Pin 14: 0.25
Pin 15: 4.86
Pin 16:-0.07
Lm386
Pin 1: 1.30
Pin 2: 0.01
Pin 3: 0.00
Pin 4: 0.00
Pin 5: 3.97
Pin 6: 8.21
Pin 7: 4.15
Pin 8: 1.30
Sorted this out. I mispositioned one of the 22k resistors by one row, all good and crazy now =)
Deletemy friends, in this topic there is the clarinot deluxe, with speed control Lfo... do you know anything about this? http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4000&p=187248&hilit=clari+not+deluxe&sid=af32945ec06a79fab91a7ec9f1006a33
ReplyDeleteI modded mine that way (frequencycentrals LFO) because my build only (fully) worked with the fuzz engaged. Without the fuzz mine was just another delay.... The mod did the trick but you have both: install a switch that switches either the LFO output or "track" lug 2 to the anode of the led.
Deletehttp://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/AndOrNot/And%20Or%20Not%20Run%20PCB.gif
ReplyDeletethanks heiko, and the speed control? is there in your?
ReplyDeleteyes, the speed pot is part of the LFO circuit. You can find a tiny layout for it on page four in the thread over at fsb.... I use a 100KC.
Deleteomg, its page 7 and on diysb..... :)
ReplyDeletehttp://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/CubedLFO.jpg
:) yes, thank you very much!
ReplyDeleteFor those who had issues with loosing dry signal prematurely with only a partial turn of the blend knob and a hissy overtone,
ReplyDeleteI had the same issues and after rechecking the schematic I found I had the connections to lugs 2 and 3 on the blend pot reversed. I changed it to match the layout and the problem went away leading to great effect. Just thought I would share in the hopes others could bennifit.
Thanks!!! I can go to sleep now.
DeleteLooking for help.
ReplyDeleteWould it be possible to adjust the fuzz on this circuit? I am still pretty green in my theory although I have built about 30 of these layouts successfully. I was thinking a pot in line with the fuzz lift switch but was unsure if this would be the correct placement . Any advice would be appreciated .
Dunno why nobody puts repeats on this thing.
ReplyDeleteFor anybody interested, I put the rebote delay repeat section on vero with a trimpot and stuck it between pin 16 and pin 14 behind a switch. May as well not completely waste the feature for no reason.
Great idea!!
DeleteI know this was a while ago now and I'm not sure if anyone will see this but is there a layout for the repeat section I can use. I'm pretty new to this and its my first delay type pedal so when I looked at the rebote delay layout I had no idea how to implement the repeat section independently on a daughterboard.
DeleteIt's alright, I've done it. The first thing I've worked out for myself and now I feel like some sort of genius. I'm sure when my next build doesn't work I'll be brought down a couple of pegs. Just need to drill an extra hole now for the repeats pot.
DeleteOne thing though, I've put this towards the end of my board after a drive and a couple of fuzzes and when I turn it on I lose so much top end. Is it the same for everyone else?
It's alright, I've done it. The first thing I've worked out for myself and now I feel like some sort of genius. I'm sure when my next build doesn't work I'll be brought down a couple of pegs. Just need to drill an extra hole now for the repeats pot.
DeleteOne thing though, I've put this towards the end of my board after a drive and a couple of fuzzes and when I turn it on I lose so much top end. Is it the same for everyone else?
Could anyone give me a tip on which parts of the Rebote repeats section to add between 14 and 16 for this control? Mine had 6 knobs already, may as well make it 7
DeleteHow to do this?
DeleteHello, suggested values for the LDR? I don't know which to buy. Thanks
ReplyDeletethis one?
Deletehttp://www.ebay.es/itm/10-x-FOTORESISTENCIA-GL5528-Tipo-LDR-10k-1M-arduino-pic-pcb-5mm-fotorresistencia-/181573061559?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item2a46990bb7
Hi! I've built this and so far I have a few issues for which I need a little orientation:
ReplyDelete1- Is the effect supposed to have a high volume? when i stomp it, the volume goes thru the roof, and this makes the delay almost unusable, as they get lost in fuzzy madness. Also i got a lot of radio interference. I should note that this is when the blend knob is turned a little, when it is all the way to the left, it doesn't trouble.
I am using a not so hot jazz bass on it, and tried it on guitar and it was the same. However, when i plugged in an old casiotone, it got pretty tamed and usable.
2-The fuzz lift: i don't think i've got it right. when i switch to it, the clean signal gets dropped a lot, and the effect turns into a fizzy, background noise.
I think that i've got a problem around the lm386, can this be? i'm only looking for guidance, not a specific solution, thanks!!
I join you with that.. any solution yet ? thanks
ReplyDeleteI would be glad to find a way to "clean" a bit more then unlifted signal (clean) of the effect. there seems to be a strong hiss on the processed non fuzzy signal even when the fuzz lift isnt on, as if the fuzziness is bleeding a bit to the clean signal.
ReplyDeleteI noticed that the 100n cap between pin 13 and 14 cleans a lot of the dirt in the delay signal. I was lucky enough to socket those caps and At first I had a polyester and later on I switched to a greenie which improved just a tiny bit.
I am after a cleaner processed signal (when the fuzz lift isn't on)
Also a fuzz knob to set the gain + a fuzz lift would be nice. So far I've read on the possibility to exchange the switch with a pot and Im not aiming this
thank's a lot and this website is amazing! a brand new world ! who thought a 27 year old can feel like a 5 year old playing with lego?! :D
I've just made a couple small mods to mine. To add control to the fuzz, I put a 500 ohm pot in line with the fuzz lift switch. I also replaced the toggle with a stomp. The pot works well but due to the volume jump, I can't say the fuzz lift stomp is very useful.
DeleteIn addition I made a tiny daughter board with a 100K trimmer and put it line with the input (between the bypass and board) This has helped clean up the signal quite a bit as I had the same distortion issue Twintoe mentioned above.
Hope this can help somebody.
Would you be willing to elaborate on where exactly to wire a pot to add the fuzz control? Would I just use two of the lugs on the pot? Where exactly would the connections be made?
DeleteI have two spare DPDT switches to play with in the enclosure i'm using. Any suggestions?!?
ReplyDeleteWell I built this and was getting really poor response out of it, and it was kind of thin sounding.. so I switched to a 10M ldr and that made a huuuuge difference. The effect came alive. I've still got the LDR and Led in a dark tube on the breadboard, and it seems to be really responsive with orange, red, blue, pink and even UV water clears. I'll post again on the final setup.
ReplyDeleteI just wanna say thanks for the writer and wish you all the best for coming!
ReplyDeleteused test equipment
still not getting it. connecting all the grounds together kills the sound totally, even though the vol pots are up. led is blinking...dont understand why when i change the LM386 it stop working. still very buggy.. wish I knew what to check. any ideas? maybe its the LDR that I'm using. ....
ReplyDeleteshould I be connecting all the grounds together including the input and output gnds? connecting the in and out gnds, kills the sound totally, and without, sound is pass through and some kind of effect is going on. Turning the volume, track and blend, effects the sound, but on the delay side, a little delay not very specially long. fuzz doesn't seem to work.
ReplyDeleteYes, all the grounds should be connected together.
DeleteIt's likely that there's some other problem with your circuit... my guess is a short between ground and 9v somewhere (which is why it would seem to be working when they're not all connected together).
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis effect languished without a box for a year or two, and I finally revisited it and boxed it. You can run the negative side of the main led to a DPDT switch for the cubed LFO mod, and have one side go right back to the negative side on the main board, and then the other side of the switch goes through another led in series and back to the board negative. Gives you a rate led for the LFO, plus with the included trimmer you can adjust it to ideal brightness for any led. It works great and looks dope.
ReplyDelete-Brett
sounds good !
Deletecan you maybe do a little drawing that shows this mod ?
having hard time understanding from the explanation (like always)
layouts are just the most obvious guidlines :)
thanks !!!!
Sure dawg. I played around with it even more, and it's the best. Haha. Such a simple mod. I'll draw it up tomorrow. I've been drinking..
ReplyDelete-Brett
Is this a phase-inverting circuit? I'm going to add a blend circuit for a bass player and am wondering if the Clari(not) inverts the phase...
ReplyDeleteI built it, the delay is working correctly, and the modulation with the LDR is working, however my led is not lighting up at all. The voltage across the led terminals never goes above 0.1V or so on a hard strum, not enough to cause the led to light up or interact with the LDR. Any ideas on what could be going wrong? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteDoes any one know how to add a feedback pot as in the clean verision?
ReplyDeleteEverything seems to be working as normal, but my LED will not light up at all. The LDR works great when I move my hand in front of it while testing, but the LED will not light up and seems to have no voltage whatsoever ever. I know it lights up outside the circuit and I've tried others. My track pot has the correct resistance. Any ideas??
ReplyDeleteHey, did you have any luck with getting the LED to fire up? I'm in the same boat with everything working aside from the LED
DeleteCan I use a lm386n-4?
ReplyDeleteHi, I finished this great sounding pedal. But I'm only getting one repeats. Does anybody know why?
ReplyDeleteunfortunately this pedal has one repeat only. so, your circuit seems to be ok...
DeleteI had this same issue. What LDR did you use? Did you see the notes above by The_Peddler about using a 20M/10k LDR with ultra bright 5mm yellow LED? Once I used this LDR it worked great.
ReplyDeleteI had this same issue. What LDR did you use? Did you see the notes above by The_Peddler about using a 20M/10k LDR with ultra bright 5mm yellow LED? Once I used this LDR it worked great.
ReplyDeleteSorry. My bad. The LDR I used improved TRACKING, not DEPTH. Anywho, it's definitely a recommended LDR to use. Works best with an ultra bright 5mm yellow LED from Tayda, SKU: A-1583. Who knows... might even improve the DEPTH.
ReplyDeletejameco.com LDR Part#: 202382
LDR Mfg Part#: CDS002-9008
Weblink: bit.ly/MYrOCp
I've just finished building this pedal and found some wiring issues.
ReplyDeleteIf you follow the diagram, DELAY POT and TRACK POT work in opposite way.
Turn the delay pot clockwise, you get faster delay time.
Turn the track pot clockwise, you get weaker tracking.
It's quite unuseful if you are familiar with other pedals on the market.
You can get them right with the following modifications;
- Delay 1 & 2 & Depth 3 > Delay 2&3 & Depth 3
- Delay 3 & Depth 1 > Delay1 & Depth 1
- Track3 > Track1
- Track1 > Track3