Friday, 3 February 2012

Keeley Katana Boost

Layout updated.  If you want to build this now I would suggest you build this version

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/02/keeley-katana-boost-layout-rev-2.html



Vero layout for this popular pedal with built in charge pump to provide the required 18V from a 9V supply.

 

UPDATE (09-02-2012):
The schematic that this layout was created from has been shown to be incorrect.  In the scheme the switchable 10u cap was linked to the source of Q2, this in fact needs to link to the source of Q1.  Apologies to anyone who has made this up, but it is a quick fix, just unsolder the cable and re-solder it into it's new home as per the updated layout below:


97 comments:

  1. Hi IvIark, thanks for the layouts!

    One question: the blue capacitor (10uf) in the toggle switch it is polariced, electrolytic?

    Juan.

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    Replies
    1. Hi Juan, yes polarised electrolytic in the layout, with the negative leg at the bottom.

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  2. Will this layout work the same with the push/pull pot, or should it be wired differently?

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    Replies
    1. Yes you could use a push/pull pot. As long as it's DPDT you can use any type of switch.

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    2. Ok cool...I ordered the push/pull to match the original design. I assumed it was the same as any other DPDT, but I have never used one so I wanted to double check. Thanks!

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  3. Just completed this build as well. Consider it verified. Definitely a very nice booster! I will send pics of all of my recent builds shortly...

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    1. Thanks, it'll be nice to add them to my collection

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    2. Yours LolL :) Millennium bypass 2...And when I connect the DC the led goes shortly on
      but when I click the switch the pedal works like it should be but the led stays off :)

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  4. there is an extra cut pictured in the top image...just to the right of the bottom right leg of the IC. Which image is correct, 8 cuts or 7 cuts? Thanks!!

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    Replies
    1. Yes it needs that cut, I've updated the layout. Thanks for the heads up.

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    2. BTW, this thing sounds great.

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  5. So I built this circuit and the "dirty" mode sounds extremely muffled. The "clean" mode sounds excellent. I triple checked everything and the only thing that I noticed was 2 different positions for the jumper connected to pin 3 of the IC. One picture shows the jumper under the IC and the other picture shows the jumper to the left of the 10u cap. I figured that the position of the jumper didn't matter. Is one spot right and the other wrong? If either spot works then how can I brighten the dirty mode up some? Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don't know how I managed that! It doesn't matter because the link makes the same connections, but I still can't work out how I've done that! Layout corrected.

      In terms of the dirty mode, you would brighten it up by using smaller caps in the switch. It may be worth experimenting to see which cap is having the most dramatic effect in terms of muffling the sound and going from there.

      I don't know if anyone else who has made it has experimented with the switched caps and if they could comment?

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    2. There's a wrong value in the layouts above, the cap on the switch is 15n not 150n. That will cure the muffled sound.
      Cheers and congrats for this great site

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  6. Cool. Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try some different values. Do I need to adjust the 10uf elec and 150nf caps in increments simultaneously or does that even matter? Thanks again

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  7. Is the switch in the schematic to take the place of the push/pull switch in the actual Katana?

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    Replies
    1. Yes, and of course there's nothing to stop you using that type of switch if you prefer. As long as it is DPDT you could use anything.

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  8. I tried lowering the switch caps to 1uf tant and 15nf box and it definitely brightened up the "dirty" side a lot. Too much maybe...sounds a lot like the "clean" side :) I'd start a little higher than I did when you're experimenting.

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  9. I'm new to building pedals. How did you run the on/off switch? Just with a DPDT straight bypass?

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    Replies
    1. Sorry I don't understand the question. The switch will be a DPDT 2 position on/on is that is what you're asking?

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  10. Basically, I would want to create a standard stompbox where you would either have the guitar signal running through the circuit or bypass it. I was trying to understand how that would be used with this schematic.

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    Replies
    1. Aah right, sorry I thought you were talking about the switch in the layout. This should do the trick:

      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

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  11. i just finished this and I'm getting a little noise that I'm thinking doesnt belong. I did use a MAX1044 instead of the 7660 though. I thought I read on this blog somewhere that there was some trick to get rid of some high pitched noise when using a max1044--- is that true? anyone know it?

    also is the dark side of the switch supposed to be "dirty" it sounds very terrible unless using the bridge pickup with the tone and volume wide open in my fender blackface with the treble on 9 and bass on 3.

    has anyone checked this to an original unit? I can't imagine those cap values are correct! It seems people have had similar experiences- Anyone settle on some better values? hate to have to do that damn switch again- PITA switch right there

    Thanks lvlark!! another great contribution to the vero world!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. As long as you haven't put a cut between pins 1 and 8 then it should already be in boost mode, but I don't know what frequency the MAX1044 runs at in boost mode so it could potentially still be the source of noise. That's why I just stick to ICL7660SCPA, because I know they work perfectly.

      As far as the switch goes, the values are definitely right as per the schematic, but because it can be very bassy this is always something that you may need to fine tune to your own gear. Maybe soldering sockets to the switch so you can quickly swap and change would make more sense to allow you to experiment.

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  12. Hey! so where did you guys buy the IC for this build??? I've been looking forever and it's nowhere to be found! HELP!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/251066447875

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  13. Maybe a silly question, but what are the red stripes on the vero?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sometimes some layout makers mark the "hot" stripes for easier debugging. Here, there are two different voltages involved, 9V and 18V. Those are marked for - easier debugging and measuring. :)

      So it's nothing to be concerned about buildwise...

      P.S. If i'm completely wrong, Mark can probably clarify this :)

      +m

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  14. I have a quick question for you if you dont mind. Since it runs on 18 v should i use caps that are rated 63v? And what about resistors 0.6w? Ok thanks for the best site ever. If you have time it would be nice whit a small tutorial on trasfering schematic to vero. Just started my self uesing your veros as exampels. But a few trick on how to think. Ok bye

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  15. Hi,
    Do these jfet transistor need to be biased in this layout?

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  16. Please help. Can I use tantalum 220nF capacitors? If so, what about + and -? Thanks in advance!

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    Replies
    1. Yes no problem. From left to right, the negative lead will go top, bottom, top.

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    2. I just finished it (i bought mylar capacitors) and I'm not getting 18V. On the strip where it should be 18V, I get under 9. And it's not boosting, volume is much lower than the dry signal. Where should I start troubleshooting?

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    3. If you're not getting 18V then that's probably why it isn't working and is certainly the first thing you need to fix. Did you use a socket for the IC? There must be either something wrong with the IC, the diodes or their associated placement or soldering. Check the soldering first and reflow anything that looks suspect and check the placement very carefully. Have you got another IC you can swap it for? If so try that and measure the voltage again. If it's the same then you need to look at the diodes.

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  17. I figured out the "not having 18V" problem. I accidentally shorted 2nd and 3rd row on the right.

    http://s11.postimage.org/6xr0zs38z/Keeley_Katana_Boost.png

    I replaced the IC and I't still very quiet

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  18. Please help me. I built two of them and they are both very quiet, the loudest setting on the pot is still not loud as the bypassed sound. I followed the layout and the wiring. The components are as listed. What could be the problem?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Assuming the parts are definitely right and they are all in the right holes, almost all of the time the problem is a poor solder joint or an unwanted bridge that may have been caused by a small burr of copper when cutting the holes.

      The layout is definitely verified so you're going to have to re-flow the solder and maybe look closely with a magnifying glass or loupe for any slivers of copper or wires causing the problem.

      If you post a close up front and back pic I'll see if I can spot anything obvious, but you're going to have to look it over very closely yourself.

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    2. Can you please post the voltages so I can see if mine are right?

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    3. Post your IC and JFET voltages, so we can see if there is something wrong in those. I'm not sure if Mark has build this - I know i haven't..
      +m

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    4. Can someone explain these connections (blue dots)? Should there be connections or not?
      http://s2.postimage.org/ndgf1v76x/Keeley_Katana_Boost.png

      Here are my voltages:

      http://s13.postimage.org/pguc4f4ef/voltages.png

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    5. The dots are just part of the electrolytic graphic in DIYLC, nothing to worry about. The voltages look reasonable, but you should be seeing a voltage on the gates or there is nothing to amplify. Are you getting a voltage at the top of the 220n input cap?

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    6. Those "blue dots" should not be connected.

      Seems like your pump and 18V is ok.. I'm not sure about the rest. Mark?
      +m

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    7. This is what I'm getting on JFETs

      Q1 Q2
      Drain: 16,96V 17,1V
      Source: 0,11V 0,07V
      Gate: 0V 0,7V


      And about the input 220nF cap: I can't seem to get constant readings. The bottom of the cap is constant, about 0,75V. But te top goes from 2 V to 7 V. I don't get it

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    8. This is the schematic I draw out from my board. Can anyone see a potentional problem?

      http://s7.postimage.org/hspc6eywr/2012_12_22_15_04_55.jpg

      Delete
  19. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  20. Hi!
    Finished the pedal and it works.
    It gets incredibly loud!
    The only problem is a "pop" sound when I switch to "Pull".
    Do you know what it could be or a way to fix that?
    I've used all listed parts except 1n5819 instead of 1n5817 (caps rated 25V).
    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  21. Hi, i have problems with collecting the right components.
    I was just browsing on farnell but it seems like there are so many versions of the ic, diode etc etc. And i'm fairly new to this.
    I have good soldering skills but no knowledge about components.
    Anyone who cares to help me out?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. For resistor's I'd use metal film they're usually rated at 0.5 or 0.6 watts, for the caps I'd use ceramics for the 100p and 1n, for the 220n ones it's really personal preference; polybox, metal film or mylar film are popular choices. For the electrolytic caps standard ones are fine but I'd try and get them rated 50v rather than 25v (usual advice is to go at least double the voltage you're actually using). For the IC I'd probably use this one, Farnell don't seem to do the JFET's but these should work, don't quote me on that though. For the Diodes if you can't get a 1n5817 just use a 1n4001. Good luck.

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    2. I would actually use 1/4 watt resistors, they're a lot smaller and easier to position around the vero.

      Delete
  22. Hey,
    Can anyone tell me how should I connect 9V and that LED + to input, output and switch?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The resistor mentioned on the offboard wiring layout is on the board, so the "LED+" from the board goes to your LED anode, and cathode goes to switch pin 1.
      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
      +m

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    2. And if i have socket like this
      http://www.guitarresort.com/image/cache/data/21mmDCsockets-320x320.jpg

      I have to connect this bigger (in foreground) to ground and other two to 9v +?

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    3. Also can I use 2n5457 in place of 2n5458?

      Delete
  23. Ok, I did it, but it doesn't work well. When it's off everything works normally, but when i try to start Katana i can hear only "beeeeeeeeeeeeee".
    What can i do wrong? Now only led is working fine :( i have used 2N5485, 1n5819 and LMC 7660IN.

    Please contact me through e-mail
    Sekal22@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Measure the voltages you're getting between all the JFET and IC pins and ground. That should give a clue. "beeeeeeeeeeeeee" noises always makes me think of a supply problem, I got the same sound once when I connected 9V to the box by using a metal DC jack.

      Delete
    2. It could be really hard to beginner. I've connected black wire from multimeter to ground in jack, and red wire to ic pins and next jfet pins.
      from IC i have 1-8,86 2-4,34 3-0,00 4-0,07 5-0,18 6-4,35 7-1,80 8-8,86
      and jfet's D-10,94 S-0,87 G-0,00 and second one(on the right) D-10,54 S-0,91 G-0,00

      Delete
  24. I think I'm the newest one here :) Ivlark- Thanks a lot! Everything that i have tied worked. Since I'm 1 week old on this blog I have made The Screaming bird (beginners project,I'm a beginner) the Katana and I'm making the MXR micro preamp :)
    For the Katana I have to make some changes, change the IC with a new one and also the diodes because I have the same problems explained by Ivlark (19 December 2012 15:16) I'll try to change this and update what will happen. Now I'm getting excellent sound on one mode but the other is quiet and I'm not getting ~17V I getting 7V so I'm confident that that's the problem :) Best wishes and stay tuned

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  25. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  26. Everything is working now but there is all the time that "beeeeeeeeeeeeee" sound.
    It disappears when i'm putting jumper in this place
    http://oi48.tinypic.com/voo8rs.jpg

    Any solution?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. What charge pump IC are you using? The exact part number

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    2. That's what your problem is. Those charge pumps have an oscillator which runs at 10khz and so within the audio frequency range. You need to get the charge pump with a boost function that makes the oscillator run at something like 35khz, then you won't get the whining. Like these:

      http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280842909068

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    3. Hi,
      I've built this pedal and it sounds great.
      I don't know if something went wrong but it's incredibly loud.
      Is there any way to low the max level of volume without losing the dirty sound you normally get?
      Thanks

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    4. Do you think that max1044 will be ok?

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    5. Alex. Mine is very loud too! Solution Needed! :)

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  27. How to make it quieter? It's sounds great but it's very loud.

    Rob

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. How does your volume pot act? How do you have it wired?

      Delete
  28. I don't know how to understand your question.
    1 to ground in output, 2 to 3pdt switch and 3 to 18v switch.

    Pot makes katana louder and quieter but i think it cannot be so loud on max.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Most boosters are extremely loud. Have you build Super Hard-On? I wouldn't dare to crank that all the way up with a transistor amplifier. Preamp tubes sing like crazy with that box. Other good example is the Red Llama. That too is so loud that it hurts.

      I do believe that is a feature here too. I think you have about 80% of the pot sweep that is loud and ok - so is there a reason you have to take it to the maximum?

      If you really want, you could swap the volume pot for 100K and place 150K resistor in series with lug 3 (between the switch and lug 3). Then you would only have about 2/3 of the sweep available.
      +m

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  29. Hi!
    The problem is that you get the nicest crunchy sound at almost full/full volume but at that point it's far too loud.
    Much louder than a Super Hard-On.
    Is there any way to keep the same crunch but lower max volume?
    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  30. UPS it sound grate! I have made the changes.I have build it with MAX1044. Less substitutions is better, good battery is a must. Sounds very nice in the two modes.Pictures after I box it :) I have a PoP when I'm changing from mode to mode but I don't care because I don't mess with the setup on a gig I'm doing it before :) Thanks to all for comments and support.

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  31. Is there any volume resistor in that layout?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. There's a volume pot, if that's what you mean.

      The instructions underneath state that vol1 goes to ground, vol2 to output and vol3 is the blue wire coming off the dpdt switch.

      Is that what you needed?

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    2. I don't think so. How to reduce volume level without reducing that great sound on max volume setup?

      Delete
  32. Hello !! super new to making pedals ... just wondering if anyone has got any pictures of a complete version of this project ?? ... just so i can try put it into context in my my mind .. any help would be greatly appreciated ... cheers

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    Replies

    1. There are plenty of gutshots of various builds all over this blog, this one is no different if you are only looking for a reference point.
      What exactly is confusing you, perhaps someone can elaborate in more words, if not pictures?

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    2. Hey man ... cheers for the quick response ... i think i have figured out my confusion .. it was just about the wiring of the pedal after the bread board (e.g grounding and wiring the opts and outputs) i think i've got my head around it now ... learning on the spot ! cheers for the help though man :) ...

      Delete

    3. Excellent! Glad you have it sorted out!
      Do check the "offboard" section on top if you haven't already, a great way to wire up the true bypass...

      Delete
  33. Hi
    This is my first pedal and im having troubles to understand the ofboarding connections.
    I've checked the "offboard" section but it just confused me more because the difference between the switch 3PDT and DPDT. Can someone help me?
    The input jack goes straight to "input" signed in the scheme? Or goes to pin2 in the switch with the 10u cap?
    Where is the output jack? The conection is the pin4 in switch, with 150n?
    And where goes the LED catode?
    Thanks!!!
    Jader

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  34. Hello and thanks to everybody, specially to IvIark.
    I'm about to build this pedal but I have two doubts before I start: 1) I see there are 4 1M resistors in this layout but I have seen, in all the schematics that I have found, only three. 2) The way the DPDT switch is wired wouldn't cause "pop" noises? ( When the switch is in the overdrive off position the caps aren't shorting? ) Thanks a lot for all work that everybody has done!!!

    Pablo.

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    Replies
    1. Hi Pablo, the switch between the two positions causes some pop but you wont use it in the middle of a gig :) As I have mentioned I have put a DPDT on/off main switch and it works like a charm. There are better versions now for this layout do it and you'll be amazed :) In overdrive position is superb loud and it has a grate control, in the boost position is like "more" button- excellent!

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  35. Hi guys, so I just finished building the katana and have it wired up for testing. Everything seems to work, but maybe it's me, but it seems the clean boost is REALLY dark. As there isn't a tone/treble knob, I'm wondering if something is wrong or if it's supposed to be this way. I'm thinking not as it's touted as being very transparent.

    When testing with a battery, I get 16.9v.

    IC pinouts are 8.6--4.3--0--0--0--4--3.6--8.6

    JFETs are both D8.4--S1.2--G0

    Any thoughts? I just remembered I need to check for solder bridges, hopefully it's that.

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    Replies
    1. Nope, no bridges. Any thoughts or opinions on the voltages?

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    2. I have the same problem. The Overdrive boost works fine, but the clean mode boost ir very very dark. Did you solve the problem somehow?

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  36. Dear friends,
    I have build this layout and it sound amazing !!!!!!
    I have problem connecting it to a DPDT switch and millennium bypass- the led won't light up :(
    Please help

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    Replies
    1. Which millenium bypass layout have you used?

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    2. Yours :)) Millenium bypass 2...and when I connect the DC the led goes on shortly and after when I press the switch the effect works but the led doesn't :(

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    3. Which one, the vero layout from January? What mosfet did you use?
      Milennium bypass will only work when attached to the effect and so you can't test it standalone, but I'm assuming you must have it attached to the Katana already?

      The circuit is so simple and definitely works, so if you're having problems you must have an issue with your build or a components. Maybe post a front and back pic to see if we can spot anything amiss

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    4. I have used this one http://www.flickr.com/photos/95025812@N07/8700984037/

      Here are some pics
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/95025812@N07/13456327353/
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/95025812@N07/13456563934/in/photostream/
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/95025812@N07/13456552434/in/photostream/
      I know its simple and I have used it in a few pedals now and it works grate...in this project I'm having the trouble :) And look how cool my casing looks :))))) Oh I dont know what to do :)) I have changed the diode on the bypass, I have wired the led + from the circuit to the anode on the bypass with it without it doesant work :) When I hold the (-) the led is working when I connect it to ground it's always working I dont know :L

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    5. I have swapped 2-3 BS170 it's the same...I have changed 2-3 diodes it's the same...the effect works when pressed on/off excellent the led is dead I'll go crazy and scream! :)

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    6. Sorry this bypass http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/01/millennium-bypass-2.html

      And here are the pics
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/95025812@N07/13456398025/
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/95025812@N07/13456498623/in/photostream/

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    7. I have found the defect :) Wrong Diode placement :) Works! Enjoy the pics!
      Thanks you ALL!!!

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    8. Excellent, and yes it is a very nice looking build!

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