Friday, 17 February 2012

Ibanez TS808

The classic.  This is the original unmodded version with input and output buffers intact :o)  Note, the layout has been done with 2N5088 or 2N3904 transistors in mind and that matches the orientation shown.  If you use anything else, check the required orientation for the transistors you use to make sure the pins are C B E from top to bottom.





Slightly more compact version with external switch which will give you stock TS808 clipping, red LEDs for a more aggressive distortion and a centre "diode lift" position which will be louder and cleaner than the other two positions:





BUY A KIT 
(The kit is for the top layout, add a 3 position on/off/on toggle and two red LEDs if you want to build the version with external switch) 

188 comments:

  1. The Great one! With a rotary switch 2-4, I think we can switch between this and the TS9

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  2. Yes it would be as simple as that. To save space, instead of using a rotary switch you could just get a 2 position 4PDT toggle which are smaller and not expensive.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You could just use a DPDT and wire the other side of the resistors to the board, couldn't you?

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    2. You could, but I hate free-hanging components like that, especially the output caps.

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    3. Yeah, I was thinking of maybe bringing them out to a mini board so there are only 2 wires coming from the main board.

      Just wanted to check my logic wasn't wrong! :)

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    4. This sounds like a fantastic idea, but I'm no expert.

      Where exactly would I need to wire up a DPDT and what exactly is it doing? Skipping a small part of the circuit or switching to different resistor values or something?

      I'd love to add this mod, but could do with some guidance.

      Delete
    5. I think it should be in this way http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c22/bancika/ts9ts808.gif
      from diystompboxes

      Delete
  3. Hey man, I love your layouts and they're so simple to put together. However I'm having some problems with this one. To date I've built about 50 pedals, all vero, and I've always managed to debug them on my own. I've triple checked the position of all components, all cuts and see if anything is touching that isn't supposed to touch. I wired the pots, dc jack and in/out jacks directly to the board without the 3pdt/dpdt switch (which should work, I've done it before!)

    Do you have any idea what I could look out for ? Would you be willing to have a look at a couple of pictures of the board and see if I'm overseeing anything ?

    Thanks!

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    Replies
    1. Hi, yes no problem, just email the pics to guitarfx at hotmail dot co dot uk or upload them to a pic share site and post the links here. I'll see if anything jumps out at me.

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    2. Incidentally, what NPN transistors did you end up using?

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  4. I'm using the 2N5088. They should work, right ?

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    Replies
    1. Yes they'll definitely work, but did you check the orientation? The transistor symbol I use in the layouts is just a generic symbol with the required pins specified because I don't know what people are going to use in it and so I don't think about orientation. But I just checked and my 2N5088s would need turning through 180 degrees, flat side to the right instead of the left.

      Delete
  5. Ah I see, I'll try flipping them around and check if that works. Thanks man and I'll let you know!

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    Replies
    1. Cool, I hope that's the only issue. :o)

      I've updated the layouts to avoid any future confusion and turned the transistors round. It makes sense seeing as I have mentioned 2N5088s in the notes.

      Delete
    2. Yeah cool. I did flip the trannies but that didn't solve the problem. When I turn the amp up I can hear a similar sound to when you have a cable plugged into the amp but nothing on the other end of the cable. That's really weird. I replaced the pots (although the others should've been okay) but I didn't replace the in/out jacks. I might try that to see if there's anything weird going on there.

      However, turning the knobs doesn't make any type of sound or change in the humming sound that's produced. I might even try making another of this layout to see if I did anything wrong before. I'm using exactly all the right components.

      Is the layout verified ? Maybe a stupid question haha

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    3. Oh yeah, the LED lights up when I connect the jacks so something is actually working!

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    4. No this and the TS9 are new layouts and I haven't built them yet, verifying it is your job! :o) I have been over it a few times though, and nothing is jumping out at me as being incorrect. Post those pics so I can have a quick look

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    5. E-mail sent, check the photos ;)

      Delete
  6. Yeah okay I'll finish uploading them and send to you. Check your e-mail in 5 mins!

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  7. Hi Mark,
    Thanks for the help with Zendrive, it works great! Regarding this one. The 220n capacitor in the tone section is usually a polarized tantalum. What difference does that make?

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  8. I've heard some TS aficionados suggest that you have to use a tantalum in that position but personally I haven't experimented and so couldn't say one way or the other whether there is anything in the suggestion. Maybe it's worth using sockets for that cap and seeing what you think. If you do want to try it, the positive leg will go to Tone 1 and Tone 2 for those 220n caps.

    Glad the Zendrive turned out ok.

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  9. I'm having teeth pulling issues with this, volume on max I get unity with no distortion.. tone has no effect. Bring back the gain and it oscillates badly. I get a very loud pop when activating and deactivating too. All component orientation is correct. The IC used is a RC4558P, Tried several and tried a JRC4580 too with same results.

    Though I'd see if anyone had any ideas before it hits the bin

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Measure the IC and transistor voltages mate and let me know

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    2. IC;

      1,2,3,5,6 and 7 = 4.5
      4 = 0
      8 = 8.9

      Both transistors (2n5088) measure exactly the same;

      C = 8.9
      B = 2.7
      E = 3.4

      Cheers mate

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    3. Hmmm well the base should be at a higher voltage than the emitter so something is strange around there. What transistor did you use?

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    4. Both transistors are 2N5088's and both measure identically.

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    5. Microscopic short!! aarrgghhh!! All working perfectly mate and I must say it's a spanking drive.. far better than I remember my TS9 sounding.. not so much of that thin 'mid honk'. This sounds fatter to my ears..squeals when pushing the dirt channel on my Blackstar!

      The tone control is VERY subtle though.. but then most tone controls have a sweet spot and this seems like it's just captured that with the entire sweep.

      Very nice! cheers mate ;o)

      Delete
  10. Sorry if im stupid here but this will only require a DPDT for bypass right?

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    Replies
    1. As long as you're not bothered about an LED. The effects is buffered, it doesn't have a buffered bypass so you wire it up with usual true bypass switching.

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    2. ah then i get it, thought it was buffered bypass, what's the led for in the circuit then, clipping?

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    3. What LED? Do you mean the LED wire? That goes to the LED anode and then the cathode is switched to ground via the stomp switch

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  11. Had the same issues as Vince haha, microscopic short...
    Anyway, i did that input cap mod with 10nf, 20nf and 57nf. Although i find the difference only subtle in the bass register, should i maybe take even lower then 10 and even higher then 57 for highs and lows?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Try doing the same thing at the high pass filter at IC pin 2. The 47n/4k7 combination starts cutting lows from 720hz, swapping that to a 100n mean the lows below 338hz are being cut, 1u means 33hz down and so will cut very little even on bass.

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  12. I have to take the dog for a walk, then i have crustpunk rehearsals, but.

    I think i'll build this today with 1N60Ps and 15V as DC in. Should i use 2 1N60Ps in series to preserve gain or search for a way to get more gain out of 4558? :D

    I think i'll also swap the input cap for 47n and HPF 47n at IC pin 2 for 82n:)

    Should make perfectest TS-mod eva! (Ok, i know it's really "the most perfect TS-mod ever":))
    +m

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Not bad. Almost distortiony. I did those i mentioned above. Works surprisingly well with 15V. I used 2x2 1N60Ps in series for clipping. A bit more bass with cap changes and a bit more head with 15V power.

      Like always with TS-*s, i don't like the volume pot as it always seems to give out unity at 55-65%. So. I'm swapping it for B taper. This baby is definitely going to get boxed and soon.

      Worth the mods.
      +m

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    2. Nice one Miro, did you add on a charge pump or have you made a separate 9V to 15V box?

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    3. No separate boxes to mix up things - too much hazzle :) Not all pedals are meant to be run (nor even could be run) at 15V, so that would take too much remembering. I think it's better to build integrated pump when needed and run all boxes with the same 9V. Positive ground ones get their own type of pumps too :) I only accept different wall warts for tube effects. If it has a tube in it, then we'll go with 12V positive tip. Otherwise, neg tip 9V.

      I used your pump from here:
      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2010/03/and-few-more.html

      With 1N4007s plus addition of one more for polarity protection (and to calm down the 9V input). Measures 15,8V with battery at 9,8V :) I also added LED resistor to the pump board, as 15V and LEDs don't go together too well. Pump board is small enough, so it doesn't bother me even when integrated.

      So it's three 1N4007s to keep the voltage down, closer to 15 than 18. Still, it's better to use 25V (or higher) rated caps..

      I loved the open headroom of the Klon, so i wanted to know how tubescreamers would sound with higher voltages.. Not as good, but definitely better. I'll get to play this loud tomorrow and A/B it with my Klon clone.. That may get interesting.
      +m

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    4. Something else which would be interesting is to use the charge pump for +/-9V, -9V connecting to the IC pin 4, then you can do away with the VCC/2 voltage divider components because ground will be the half voltage reference. That would give you an 18V swing and possibly more headroom.

      Delete
    5. Not a bad idea. Seems a bit more laborious to mod the layout that hard :) Plus i'm not sure if all the usual opamps can take that.. I know TL072 can.

      I actually got the idea of using a doubler pump as integrated addon from experimenting with Sabro's layout for Music Man Sabre onboard bass preamp. My goal was to use it as subtle bass preamp box with simple passive DI. Kind of like poor man's version of Sans Amp Bass Driver. It lighted up so much brighter with 15V feed instead of nine, so i figured it could work for other IC based circuits too. That experimentation ended with one phrase though - too subtle.

      Feel like doing a layout of a Bass Driver? :)

      But the simple idea of more audible high frequencies getting amplified by the ICs with a bit higher voltages is just brilliant. Tiny addon board, and that's it. :)
      +m

      Delete
  13. Nice mods mirosol! Think i won't bother with that for now, been playing around with the input caps, hate how little bass these have. Although tonights project is getting 2pcs of the Deep Blue Delay togheter. Should fill my night haha.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. NP.

      Just check your caps and build the small addon board :)

      Heck, that could be made switchable! Instead of classic TS sym/asym clipping switch, the 9V/15V switch :)
      +m

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    2. The 47n is the most likely cause of that, try upping it to 470n or 1u and you'll notice a difference. Or alternatively, leave that cap and swap the 4k7 resistor for a 47K or 100K, the effect will be the same. It doesn't matter how big you make the input cap if that filter pulls all the bass straight back out of it.

      Delete
  14. Odd how mine sounds fat? .. fatter than crunch box, titan plexi etc? checked all my components and they're all spot on... like always, it must be down to gear. SG/Blackstar sound huge to start with.

    It's screamer.. throw it in the dirt channel and make it scream! ;o)

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  15. How to mod this to TS9 variant?
    Regards!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/ibanez-ts9_17.html

      Delete
  16. Behold, The Tempest Screamer!
    http://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/tmpst.JPG

    Yup. I f'd up the decal, but i don't mind. :)
    +m

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  17. Looking good Mirosol,

    Heres mine,

    http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/5098/dsc00560km.jpg

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was tempted to call it a 'lube screamer' but luckily thought better of it.

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    2. Nice simple build!

      On your comment - :DDDD

      Should have made it pink box with a brown fat circle on the middle!
      +m

      Delete
  18. Has anyone tried one of these? I have a spare 1x12 cab and wouldn't mind a little head for it (amp that is).. And this is a pretty good price considering a TS pedal is not much cheaper

    http://www.andertons.co.uk/guitar-amp-heads/pid23581/cid689/ibanez-tsa15h-15w-tube-screamer-amp-head.asp

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    Replies
    1. A mate of mine made his own using a tiny giant kit from music pcb and a ts808 vero for the pre-amp, both run of a 15v laptop supply. Pity he housed it in a crappy plastic enclosure from maplins, looks like shit but sounds frickin awesome.

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    2. ......... And a tiny giant vero might be a good idea cough MARK cough :-)

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    3. Cool, I considered doing something like that...like an amp build with a ts vero in front of it. But the finishing is where I'd lose motivation and it'll end up in biscuit tin or something. I may have to treat myself to one and throw my TS808 in front of it as well

      Triple tube screamer orgasm!

      Delete
  19. so here's my build of this! changed the 47nf cap for a switch with 2.2nf in center, 20nf and 100nf. sounded really good and tight.
    ts is the right board, the other is the deep blue delay.
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/inside.jpg
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/front.jpg
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/front_2.jpg

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    Replies
    1. nice pedal mate, how did u do your decal?

      Delete
  20. I have ordered pices for a TS808, but I didn't order any tantalum cap, I took Panasonic SMF instead - is't a problem?

    Cheers!

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  21. Replies
    1. Sorry missed your post, and yes it is the 220n caps.

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    2. No complain :0)

      I have read that it should be tantalum, but I ordered panasonic - will it sound better, worse or the same?

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    3. Some people swear by tantalums in those positions, some hear no difference. I think there are some subtle audible differences with different cap types but have never thought the difference was night and day and so one wouldn't sound great and the other rubbish. So I'd say just use what you've ordered and don't worry about it.

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    4. Thanks a lot Ivlark - this might let me sleep better tonight ;o)

      Cheers!

      Delete
  22. will this layout work without the led hooked up?

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  23. Cant seem to get this to work, both transistors are measuring higher base than emitter.. :(

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes this will work fine without the LED and the base would usually measure higher than the emitter. What are all the pin voltages?

      Delete
  24. Hey Mark- if I wanted to include the 4pdt toggle to switch between a TS808 and TS9, what would I need to do?

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    Replies
    1. Well the only differences between them are two resistors in the output buffer and in all honesty the differences will be minimal if anything. You could play a TS9 and TS808 separately and come to the conclusion that the differences are greater, but that will more than likely be because in two completely independent effects, some of the components may have changed and certainly the tolerances of the components will come into play making more audible differences between the 2. If you're making a single effect switchable those differences are likely to be negligible at best because the rest of the components are the same and so you aren't going to get any other differences due to tolerances.

      But if you do want to do this, the only differences are as follows:

      Q2 emitter resistor is 470R in the TS9 and 100R in the TS808
      Pulldown resistor at output is 100K in the TS9 and 10K in the TS808.

      And that's it, so you could use a 4PDT switch with lug numbering like this:

      1---4---7---10
      2---5---8---11
      3---6---9---12

      Solder a 100R between lugs 1 and 4
      Solder a 470R between lugs 3 and 6
      Connect wires from lugs 2 and 5 to where that resistor goes in the board

      Solder a 100K between lugs 7 and 10
      Solder a 10K between lugs 9 and 12
      Connect wires from lugs 8 and 11 to where that resistor goes in the board

      And that's it.

      Delete
  25. Thanks, Mark. So you're saying that the real difference if I built the two effects would be due more to variance in the components vs. just the difference those two resistors would make would all else being equal?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yep. The only differences are two components in a unity gain output buffer. The final cap and resistor to ground do create a high pass filter, but both allow the entire guitar frequency range to pass through so neither will cut any lows. Rather than putting them on a switch why don't you socket those two resistors and just swap and see what you think. I suspect you'll find you can't hear any difference between them and if you do hear some subtle variation, it's likely that you wouldn't waste a 4PDT switch on it.

      Delete
  26. I may have to give it a go anyways. I ordered 5 4pdt switches off of eBay, and I haven't needed them to date! Unless you have some other clever mods on this or others where the switches would be useful! =)

    ReplyDelete
  27. My TS808 built n boxed !!!

    http://ubuntuone.com/1HcWEa08w7DnhtiQhwnRhL

    Thanks
    James

    ReplyDelete
  28. Nice finish!. How do you del with this white letters? is a sticker?

    BR

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi

      Yes i use a Brother PT-2730 label printer.

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    2. Hi,

      Results are amazing! Can you confirm me if this is the one you use?

      http://www.amazon.com/Brother-Connectable-Labeling-System-PT2730/dp/B0047T7JMW

      If so, Santa's going to receive my letter soon :)

      BR

      Delete
    3. Hi JaviCAP

      Yes that's the one. I don't use it as a standalone i use it connected my PC as they have a good bit of software for designing your labels which means you can use any fonts available on your system.

      James

      Delete
    4. Thank you very much James! This year, my wife can't tell the old excuse that she knows not what to get me for Christmas :)

      BR

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    5. LOL i suppose i'll have to be happy with more socks !!!!

      Delete
  29. I built this exact layout and cannot get any sound when the effect is on. True bypass is working, LED turns on, have voltage between the input and output wires connected on the footswitch, voltage to the IC, but I still can't figure out why the effect won't turn on. I went through all the tracks on the stripboard, every thing that needs grounded is. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Measure the voltage between all transistor and IC pins and ground and tell us what you're getting

      Delete
  30. Voltage drop across DC jack is 9.34

    IC 1: 8.74
    2: 8.77
    3: 8.69
    4: 9.33
    5: 8.70
    6: 8.78
    7: 8.78
    8: 9.33

    Q1 C: 9.34
    B: 4.41
    E: 9.24

    Q2 C: 9.33
    B: 4.51
    E: 5.25

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well you've got 9.33V on the IC pin 4 which should be grounded and so 0 volts so that is a definite problem. I suspect you've taken the link up to IC pin 4 from the 3rd row from bottom instead of the 4th.

      Delete
  31. Thank you sir, I now have sound coming through. My volume is cut unless turned all the way up, is that normal? What are average voltage readings?

    This time I have:
    IC 1: 4.65
    2: 4.78
    3: 4.57
    4: 0
    5: 4.66
    6: 4.66
    7: 4.66
    8: 9.34

    Q1 C: 9.34
    B: 2.85
    E: 3.53

    Q2 C: 9.34
    B: 2.85
    E: 3.50

    ReplyDelete
  32. If I was to use tantalum for the 1U caps would the positive leg go up (towards the top of the board) on both of them.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. They are listed as non polar in every schematic I have and although I know what I expect to be the correct orientation, there are voltage sources both sides and so I don't want to just guess. The best thing to do is build it up with everything except the 2 x 1u caps, then power the circuit and measure the voltage between both side the cap leads will solder to and ground. Put the negative lead to the side with the lowest voltage.

      But also bear in mind that in some circuits it is possible for voltages to change at certain points in the circuit depending on the position of the pots, which could affect which side has the lower voltage. So there is a chance that non polar caps are specified for a reason.

      The caps that are traditionally tantalum in a Tubescreamer are the 2 x 220n's.

      Delete
  33. Thanks, I was just showing my ignorance. All I had on hand was polarized 1u caps and did not think it would matter. I will wait for non polar caps.

    ReplyDelete
  34. Can someone post picture with connected pots for a noob like me and his first build?

    Thank you if so :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The pot numbering used is shown in a image here:

      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

      That should give you a good idea for orientation.

      Delete
  35. If I'm not worong, swappin' 510k resistors with 470k ones, only shoud affect to the pedal's impedance, isn't it?

    So with a 470, input impedance should be around 420-430k instead of 470k. This issue shoul affect the tone?

    I think that shouldn't affect a bit, but would like to confirm. Yes, as you can suppose, I'm out of 510k resistor and have to build a TS808 :P

    BR

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes it sets input impedance and 470K would be fine, I doubt anyone would hear even a slight difference.

      Delete
    2. Thanks Mark :) Yeah, sounds really nice this effect. Maybe I should build one for myself.

      Will try it with OP275 and TLC2272, but with an current JRC4558 sounds cool anyway (and I still have many to use :P)

      BR

      Delete
  36. Curious note: When buildind my unit, i made not correctly the cut between pin1 and pin8 of the ic, so there were 9volts in the whole row.

    Funny thing is that, while the Drive knov was useles, I did get a very nice distortion tone :P Will have to check it more in deep, as the sound I obtained was quite interesting.

    Sometimes a wrong makes a right :P

    BR

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Very strange, that puts 9V directly to the output of the first opamp. May be worth modding and adding a switch :o)

      Delete
    2. Will try if I have to open the box again :).

      Something that makes me think that is all not ok is that with drive knob fully ccw, the sound is not cristal clean as happens with my original Tubes Creamer or with other clones.

      Even with the softest picking you can get slightly overdriven sounds, while with the original with Drive CCW you have to hit the strings hard in order to get saturation.

      BR

      Delete
    3. With the 51K in there I wouldn't expect it to be able to get completely crystal clean. Try reducing that if you want to set a lower minimum gain.

      Delete
  37. There is no way i'm getting this to work.
    All ic voltages are fine, transistors are 9V, 4V, 3,5V base, collector, emitter.
    Everything works but drive contol, drives me nuts!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Check out everything connected to that pot. It could be that pot itself too...
      +m

      Delete
    2. Got it sorted out, had wrong value smoothing cap, instead of 47p i had put 47n!
      Lesson learned, never solder after midnight!
      Now it's fine, bit of anticlimax on it's own, but works great with dirty little secret.

      Delete
  38. Nice simple build - worked right off the bat - kudos :)

    ReplyDelete
  39. The 20nF capacitor you've got going from the input pin - is that 20nF on the schematic you worked from or did you sub that in? - interested as the TS-808 schematics I have use 47nf. What effect will the difference have?

    Also, anyone aware of what capacitors are used in the original?

    I read somewhere that the 220nF's are tantalum.

    Do the 1uF's need to be film rather than electrolytic?

    Thanks!

    Ian

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm sure many on here will tell you it doesn't matter what kind of caps you use as long as they're the correct value. I've made a few of these. Some using cheap ceramics an others using poly box etc. Not a shred of difference between them. Although I choose to use poly box purely for reliability etc.


      Delete
  40. Just made one of these but added two switches to switch the two resistors between ts9 and ts808

    Don't bother!! they're near exactly the same. The difference was the equivalent of slightly nudging my treble up a millimetre.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Treble on my amp I should of added.

      Delete
    2. I was wondering if i should do something like at some point. Thanks for the tip Vince.

      I just finished two Maxon OD820 boards.. You should try that. In my opinion, it's what TS's should have been in the first place. I think i even like it over Klon...
      +m

      Delete
  41. Hi. I tried building this yesterday with the kit from bits box but it's not working for some reason. The LED is switching on and off and I'm getting a signal from my guitar but it's not affected in any way. Twiddling the knobs makes no difference whatsoever, I just get a clean tone no matter what. I followed the first off board wiring diagram off your site and I was meticulous with the circuit board. Any idea what could be wrong? I can send some pictures of all the wiring if that helps. Cheers

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Post pics including front and back pics of the board to one of the free image sites like tinypic, and post the links on here. Then we can see if anything obvious stands out.

      Delete
    2. Right, here's the front,
      http://oi40.tinypic.com/e0jql3.jpg
      and the back,
      http://oi43.tinypic.com/2zjdj6t.jpg

      This is my first pedal and I'm pretty new to electronics so I'm sure there's something really obvious I haven't done. It's not boxed yet so I'm thinking maybe it could be a grounding issue???
      Any help would be great.

      Delete
  42. Hello,i have a problem...first the copy worked well for a good while,then it started to lose volume (when the volume pot was at max it was lower),now if i get it to max volume is somewere lower than my cleen...somebody can hellp me please?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. As i measure the level it gives me 96k so...i dont tink the problem is from the pot geting used.

      Delete
  43. Hello. I've built this and boxed it. I used a 20k pot for tone and Tantalum caps for the 220nF. The reason beeing that most schematics of the TS808 specify that. This is my first pedal build ever! Everything is working well, except for the tone control, apart from somewhat middle positions, i get some noise, like subtle popping/crackling, it gets quite worse in the extreme positions, in full treble it sound pretty damn bad. I think the Pot is ok, i'm going to try and change the IC, but any sugestions are welcome and i would aprecciate it!

    ReplyDelete
  44. Trying my hardest to keep this modless, as a reference for other TS-alikes.
    Alu knobs taken from an old amp/tuner.
    Sounds great, and worked first time which is always nice.
    Thank you for all your work in these layouts : )

    https://www.dropbox.com/sc/7tkqmxd80e7da2o/bkPI1oZcH4

    ReplyDelete
  45. Hello,
    I've been trying to get this one to work for days now. I'm using 2n5088 transistors for both and they read exactly the same whenever I measure them

    C: 9.5V
    B: 0.01V
    E: 2.0V

    Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Those transistors are buffers, so the voltages don't look bad at all. Have you probed it to see where the signal dies?
      +m

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    2. ah. From what had been said earlier in the thread I was pretty sure that the Base needed to be at a higher voltage than the Emitter. Well the rail for pin 6 of the IC is only at 0.46V and for whatever reason, the led I have connected won't light, so I'm pretty sure something screwy is going on there (it has a low voltage as well between 0.02V-0.76V) so if there's anything you can think of that might be wrong it would be greatly appreciated.

      Delete
    3. IC pins 1-3 and 5-7 should be at around vref (4.7V or so). 4 should be exactly 0 and 8 should have your supply voltage. Probe would be my suggestion, after knifing the gaps. Short between strips would explain everything.
      +m

      Delete
  46. mine's completed and it sounds great. I did a couple of mods to it for use with a bass and replaced one of the 1N4148's with a green 3mm LED and I really love it now.

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/TS808/TS808-01.jpg

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/TS808/TS808-02.jpg

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  47. I know this is old now, but any chance of some help, built this and just can't get it right. No sound at all. Q1 & 2 both c 9.3 b 3.3 e 4.8 ic seems to pin out right. I have double and triple checked for shorts between tracks and scraped it just for the heck of it. Checked resistors and replaced most caps. Still the same.
    Any help is appreciated.

    Shannon

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  48. Hi folks ,
    Can anyone tell me how i would wire this pedal for buffered bypass ?
    Thanks in advance !
    Stu

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    Replies
    1. Ibanez used a JFET and bipolar transistor flip flop setup to bring the bypass buffer in and out of circuit, but it's not something that we would implement in our layouts for a couple of reasons. Firstly because of the low cost 3PDT stomp switches that are now readily available alongside a global fashion of everyone wanting "true bypass". Even people who see the benefit of including a buffer over a true bypass only chain, many people (myself included) would prefer to use a single buffer of my choice, alongside true bypass switching. It can sound great with no "tone suck" causing capacitance, in a simple design which is easy to implement and replace as and when necessary.

      But the main reason for me is the number of components in the flip flop switching. It may be OK on a PCB but the sheer number of components make it a big no-no for anyone wanting to get a vero build in a 1590B box. That on its own would take up a lot of the space available and so it would add significantly to the board dimensions.

      If someone was intent on doing it, they already have the main audio TS808 circuit here, so they could always add a separate daughterboard to do the flip flop switching with the components shown at the bottom of the linked schematic. I may do this board layout as I think a few people may find it useful to use with a number of the layouts we have here, but with other commitments and especially with Christmas coming up I can't promise when it would be.

      Delete
    2. You would need to add components to get it to use the buffers on board. I'd suggest you just build a simple buffer as a daughter board and wire the 3PDT as A/B withh that.
      +m

      Delete
  49. I have no 1uf polys right now, but I do have electrolytic and tantalums. Where would the pos and neg go, and what would be the best to go in there?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Negative at the top in both cases

      Delete
  50. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  51. I'm having slight issues with my build...I've got everything wired up, and it appears to be fine (minus the LED, I hooked it up the way I'm used to by accident from the madbean offboard wiring...will fix that later).

    In bypass mode, it works just fine. Can hear the guitar, with a little bit of noise in the background of it. Engage the pedal, and nothing. No pop, no sound, no nothing. Transistors are in the correct way, and the only substitution I've made was instead of a 20n cap on the left side of the board, I used a 22n, since that was all I had. No solder bridges that I can see. Ideas on where to start?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. OK, so I got it mostly working...looks like I had a grounding issue which was solved by an extra washer added on the other side of my audio jacks. Now, the only issue is that the volume only works on the upper half, and the tone has no effect whatsoever.

      Measurements for the components are as follows:

      IC
      1-4.65
      2-4.76
      3-4.72
      4-0.1
      5- 4.73
      6-4.74
      7-4.73
      8-9.48

      Q1
      C-9.49
      B-4.14
      E-4.00

      Q2
      C-9.49
      B-4.16
      E-3.75

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  52. Does anything go to drive 3 in the second layout?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You can link it to 2 but it isn't necessary

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  53. Has this one actually been verified working with the above layout? Through reading the comments I see a lot of problems in the build?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Any problems people have had are build problems, not layout problems. The top layout has been built thousands of times because it's the same template I've used for other TS based layouts such as the Boiling Point, Dynamic Overdrive etc etc etc.

      The second layout is based around the verified Dumbloid layout and so I'm confident it is good, but if you have any concerns, build the top one.

      Delete
  54. I just finished building this and cant get any sound out of it.

    I have checked all components, they are all reading correctly (resistors and caps, cuts and links).

    The only difference I have done is use a 47k resistor instead of 51k and the 1uf caps I have used are Electrolyte (negative at the top on both accounts).

    I have tried my best to score through each line with a knife and it looks clear.

    These are the readings im getting...

    Q1 & Q2 both exactly the same:

    C: 9.28
    B: 2.25
    E: 2.69

    IC:

    1: 1.49
    2: 1.23
    3: 3.60
    4: 0.01
    5: 0.80
    6: 1.41
    7: 1.43
    8: 1.66

    Now from reading the other comments, all the above looks quite wrong... I just dont know why?

    This is my 5th Vero build, the others have worked out perfectly and was able to diagnose. Although they were a lot easier than this..

    Also looking at some of the other pics posted here, I am noticing a long link on the very right of the circuit, which isn't in the diagrams... wondering maybe im missing something?

    Could anyone help, would be amazingly appreciated to solve this?

    Many Thanks in advance
    H

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. oh, the LED lights up too...

      I have absolutely no sound. No buzz or anything. I accidentally moved Drive 3 wire to the one above the 'Drive 2 & 3' (going towards the 9v) and I got a clean tone with volume knob working. Don't know if that will help in debugging?

      Delete
    2. You've only got 1.66V on pin 8 which should have the full supply voltage on it. You do have 9V on the collector though so we know you are getting the full voltage on the board. So you must either have misplaced the link to pin 8 of the IC, or the solder joint is bad at one or both ends of the link.

      Delete
    3. was a bad solder on pin 8 (had to catch it in the right light!). your a genius! works nice, great classic sound. now to box! :-)

      Delete
  55. hmm checked voltages again. pin 8 is only showing 4.9. the battery is 9v. also notced that drive 3 is doing nothing! if i connect it or not, it doesnt make a difference to the drive sound from what i can hear? sound odd?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nothing from any other part of the circuit should affect the voltage you're getting on pin 8 other than a build issue such as an unwanted micro bridge to another row of the vero which could be pulling the voltage down or a faulty component.

      Gain 3 doesn't make any difference whatsoever. The gain control in this is a simple variable resistor and so only two lugs of the pot are required, 1 and 2. Lug 3 is often linked to 2 but it doesn't make any difference at all whether you do or not in this pedal.

      If you do link 2 to 3, if at some point in the future the wiper (lug 2) of the pot fails then the pedal will go into full gain mode as if the control were dimed. If you don't connect 2 to 3 and at some point in the future the wiper fails, then it will go into low gain mode as if fully counter clockwise. In reality the pot will be scratchy and replaced long before it fails so I really don't worry about it. Sometimes I do it, sometimes I don't, it really just depends on whether the original did for me. But I don't care either way.

      Delete
  56. now they are:

    1 -4.47
    2 - 4.64
    3 - 4.39
    4 - 0.01
    5 -8.94
    6 -4.47
    7 - 4.47
    8 -4.47

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. They look good to me. Well 4 should be at zero volts but it's probably your multimeter more than anything, and it's close enough

      Delete
    2. ok thank you for that explanation. that's fab mate. also noticed i just wrote pins 5 - 8 in the wrong order.... well.. got to learn somehow. so pin 8 is getting 8.94 which is nice. Cheers!! :-)

      Delete
  57. Just build this with the clipping option mod, great sounding pedal. I didn't have exact values on a few of the components but got pretty close, very happy and would encourage anyone wanting a TS808 to build it!

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  58. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  59. Hey
    I just finished building this board and I'm having problems with it. I hope somebody can help me. I have verified that everything is in the right place, made sure that there are no solder bridges (i went over everything with a multimeter and a knife), and measured all the voltages. The only thing i did differently is that i used 1uf electrolytic capacitors (negative facing top) for the build. Right now the bypass works but there is no sound once the circuit is turned on. Can somebody tell me what is going on?
    voltage:
    IC:
    1 = 4.58
    2 = 4.50
    3 = 4.53
    4 = 0
    5 = 4.52
    6 = 4.50
    7 = 4.53
    8 = 9.00

    Transistors (i checked the orientation, they are 2N3094s):
    C = 8.98
    B = 3.83
    E = 3.42

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  60. I tried making the whole board again. The voltage readings remain the same but this time when the switch is turned on there is a lot of noise coming from the circuit. Turning the potentiometers down seems to eliminate the noise. I tried playing ignoring the noise, but changes to the clean tone are barely noticable. But other than that the bypass still works, LED works, and the grounding on the jacks look solid. what do you guys think?

    ReplyDelete
  61. the voltages look good to me. and the 1μf i think is ok too.
    and i trust you with the orientations of transistors and ic too.
    the thing with debugging for me is that when i have to do it, is always something stupid i did.
    i can't point you to something cause there are so many small things that only you can find out.

    for example, with my first builds, i had 3 at a row times the same problem. i've put in place of "x"-r resistor, a "x"-k one...now that's one of the first things that i look on any layout. if and where there is a resistor some thousand times smaller than the one i could through in...!!!
    hope you find it out! if not give as some photos

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  62. Thanks for the suggetions!
    I just went over the resistors and everything looks right.
    I forgot to mention that I am using a 2N3904 transistor, could that be the problem?
    Could the noise problem be with the potentiometers? the tone knobs are unresponsive, but then again it is hard to hear over all the noise.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 2n3904 is ok i think, but you could always use 2x2n3904 or 2x2n5088 just in case.
      the pots shouldn't be the problem if they are new, tested, and you didn't overheat them in soldering.
      just check everything again with your multimeter (cold joins, bridges...)
      and then post some pictures...

      Delete
  63. For those who can help:
    http://postimg.org/gallery/19ox8m1y0/

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. i can see at list one cold join..the up left 1μf cap. it's up leg does not look good soldered to me.i'm trying to find something else that could be a problem...

      Delete
  64. Thanks so much! How do you check if the potentiometer is working correctly? What else should i check besides the IC and the transistors?

    ReplyDelete
  65. take it out of the circuit.
    put at lag1 one wire from your multimeter
    then in lag 2 of the pot put the other wire from your multimeter
    turn your multimeter at resistor reading at the range of the potentiometers value.
    so if it's 50k pot you should read at your multimeter from left to right turning, 0k--->50k.
    if you see something like rising and then falling while you only turn it up, then it's broken
    now check it from the other side(lug3 and lag 2) in this case you should see the readings 50k--->0k if you turn the pot again from left to right.
    hope i helped. my english sucks and i have no time for google translate...!!!good luck

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  66. I've built the version without the switch for the caps but I'm having a few issues. I have used a few replacement parts cause I didn't have everything I needed. I used 1n4148 diodes, 2n2222a transistors and a 20k pot for the tone. The circuit works but the tone knob boosts the volume and distortion as I turn it up. With the tone all the way up it whines when your not playing. I'm gonna add a resistor to get the pot to 10k would I just add a 10k resistor between lugs 1 and 3? And mine seems to have more distortion than the original. I've played around with my friends a while ago but I don't remember it being this distorted. And I wanted to know if it's normal for the volume to be lower with the tone knob all the way down and if the volume is supposed to increase at all when you turn it up. I'm guessing it's not supposed to do that but I was just wondering I'm about to go over and see if I have made any mistakes and try differant diodes to see if it can sound closer to the orginal I have a few differant ones sitting around but I don't have the same type as the orginal.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. it's the tone pot you should look for. it's not a 10k resistor. you should put a 20k between 1 and 3 to get that 10k (log) potentiometer. i think that this causes all of your "problems".
      i believe that if you turn your tone pot till half of it's way you'll see that you wont get that boost and distortion...

      Delete
  67. guys i tried building the top one from kit then tried to add a 3ptd switch following the off board wiring guide. should this have worked or did i get this totally wrong ?

    ps first build

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  68. Hey there im not getting any juice on the whole ground rail? Any ideas...thnx...

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  69. oopps!!!figured that out. Still learning. Feel like an idiot. thnx!! rewired the switch and put 2n5088 and it works great now..

    ReplyDelete
  70. Hello all this is probably anothr stupid q's but here it goes. I built the landgraff Mo'd and it sounds great! On the land the LED's are lighting up when I'm sw Iitched to that mode. I also, built the ts808 with the clipping switch but the LED's dont light up. I am wondering if they are supposed to? Thnx!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  71. Hey,
    Thinking about building one of these, using the top layout (not the compact one).. Was wondering if there were any cool things I could do with switches? I'm really interested in the clipping switch of the compact version, but not sure whether I can translate that over to the non-compact version? Cheers, Dom

    ReplyDelete
  72. Wow, I can't believe what a difference there is in a 100k lin verses log pot for volume control. I was really disappointing with the max output and the sweep with this thing, until I changed to linear! Simplest mod ever and amazing difference.

    ReplyDelete
  73. Really struggling with mine, built the first layout twice with the same results, bypass is fine but when switched on there's a steady buzzing.knobs seem work tho as they change sound of the buzz when turned.tried a different 3pdt but made no difference. Measurements look good too. Ive added a 1n914 reverse polarity diode before q1 collector, wired from row 1 to row 7 (ground), but positive end to grnd as per the ggg schem. Any ideas? I've been shouting at components all week.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Have you built an Audio Probe? Fantastic tool for debugging! I've been using one since I started and its taught me one thing.....the problem is 99% human error and 1% component failure. It really forces you to look at a circuit one component at a time. Great tool. Or hi res pics if you want others to have a look

      Delete
  74. I've built a couple of these that worked perfectly. yesterday I tried to build another and I get oscillation from the tone control (I used a 20k lin pot which I've used before). Also, it cleans up the drive at near minimum and near maximum. Any thoughts or help?

    ReplyDelete
  75. This was my second build from the tagboard blog. As I am still relatively new to building (about 10 pedals under my belt) I think this is a pretty good project for someone looking to take a next step from PCB projects. I went with the first diagram and it sounds great either on its own as a main distortion or as an overdrive for something already a little dirty.

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  76. Hello ,
    I built the TS808 and works perfectly, but I have a little problem with clipping.

    (... May be normal, I do not know, but I wonder)

    When I do the clipping between red LEDs and silicon diodes, there is a huge, huge difference "quantity" volume.
    silicon diodes and distorted sounds duller (logical ...) but LEDs, the volume goes much, much, much more, in reference to the sound giving the silicon.

    therefore, to use live quickly, it is quite impossible, with such tonal difference.

    It is normal???

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. yes. it's completely normal. the leds have a higher forward voltage so more signal passes thru them.

      Delete
  77. Built this one with tantalums. Works great, amazing sound and no issues! Thanks!!

    ReplyDelete
  78. Hello

    I build the second vero, the "bypass" mode is ok, but the pedal itself doesn't work. no sound except a small "hiss" (high frequency).
    the led lights up correctly, and the IC measures are ok (same as other posts)

    BUT the Q1 and Q2 have both:
    1: 9v
    2: 8.35
    3: 8.34

    and i understand this is bad... but i don't know what to do...

    thank you for your help!

    Johan

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. it's ok: the transistors legs were in the wrong order (213 or something like this)

      Delete
  79. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  80. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  81. Any idea why I´m getting low output (only about unity with level+drive-pots maxed) when running this pedal alone, but all normal when I have another pedal after this one?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Could be several reasons. But the most important two - What pickups you have in your guitar? Or how hot they are in terms of DC resistance? I'm guessing you have modern humbuckers.

      Second, are you sure it's not a feature? I've built tens of Tubescreamers and derivatives and i can confirm that TS design is not a volume booster.

      I thought about this a lot when i built my first TS'. I was certain that there was something wrong with my builds as they were all just barely over unity. But then i bought myself a reissue of TS9. The output level was and still is on par with that when compared to my builds. TS is not a loud pedal. It can feel loud if your pickups are with vintage specs - i.e. anything below 8k of DC resistance. Vintage-styled single coils in range of 4-5k are IMO the greatest pickups with a Tubescreamer. It almost feels like a soaring eagle. But once armed with modern high gain pups like Duncan's JB/Custom5/etc... The cold dead hand slaps you on the top of your head and the overall feel of the pedal is just sluggish. I also spent around 5 years hating and trash-talking the TS due to its features of a) not being a booster and b) not sounding good with modern high gain pickups.

      Once you fire your build up with low/moderate gain, vintage style pickup in the neck position.. Then you'll know why the otherwise extremely sucky TS is as highly praised and cloned a bazillion times with very little changes.

      And back to your original question. I'm fairly certain you are experiencing a feature, not a good feature, but a feature nevertheless.

      I don't want to be mistaken as a authority by expressing my experiences and gut feelings, so i recommend that you take two actions. Get an original to compare and try a few different pickup combos. I have a Fender Blacktop strat as stock. This is a great and relatively cheap bench guitar. Two hot (closer to 13-14K in DC resistance) humbuckers that can be coil splitted by default. This means that one guitar has both, 6-7K neck and bridge single coils side by side with hot humbuckers. Many circuits just sound way better with lower output pups.

      Either way. I'll also bet that your build is louder than a stock Boss DS-1.
      +m

      Delete
  82. It was the output-wire soldered a row too low... Well, at least an easy fix. Now works as normal. But what explains that behavior that the output level got normal anyway when I put another pedal after this (when the output wire was soldered to wrong row)?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. DC voltage. Output wire at one row below means that you have taken your output straight from output buffer transistor's emitter. Where there oughta be some DC voltage. When this is the output, there is DC in your signal which messes the sound and amp behaviour up. Once you take another pedal after the wrong output, other pedal's input cap also acts as output cap for the wrong output - cancelling the issue.
      +m

      Delete
  83. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  84. Hi,i just checked your vero, and saw it was based on the TS's schematic with the low pass filter of the gain stage and the cold lug of the vol pot connected to the 4,5V bias voltage.
    On few schematics these connections are done with the ground. Do you know what difference does it make? Will it change the sound?
    Cheers
    Fabien

    ReplyDelete
  85. Hello! What does that led+ means? I've built the pedal, trying it without switch and no sound at all (then with a 3PDT, and nothing neither).

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. hey bud, that goes to a wire which goes to the positive lead of your LED, which will light up when you press the 3PDT switch that turns the pedal on. Don't forget to consult this for more help http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com.au/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

      Delete
    2. Great! So, I don't need a 3dpt or a millenium bypass for the led?

      Delete
    3. That doesn't affect the switching. It's just that you don't need to take LED's resistor outboard. You'll take LED+ connection from board to your indicator LED anode and cathode goes to you 3PDT stomp switch as seen in the link Charles just posted.
      +m

      Delete
    4. Also, i'm fairly certain you have an error in your build since it didn't work right with or without the bypass switch. Knife the strip gaps, triple check component placing and if you still get nothing - measure the IC pin voltages. Those should be about 4,5V for pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, and 7. Your supply voltage (around 9V) for pin 8 and exactly 0 for pin 4. If all those are within 20% margin, the circuit should be fine.
      +m

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    5. Thanks a lot for the answers! Tomorrow I'll try that. So in first place, should try the pedal without the switch? Nothing happens if there is no led wired to the circuit?

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    6. Yes. If it works without the switch and not yet in a box, then it'll be a lot safer to box it up and add a switch. If it was working but doesn't work after switch and boxing, then you'll know the issue is with the switch and the box.
      +m

      Delete
  86. Can this be modified to TS10 specs? I´m asking because the TS10 layout itself is in unverified state.

    ReplyDelete