Friday, 27 June 2014

Toneczar Openhaus

[Updated 1st August 2014 - The schematic I did this from by UngodFX contained an error around the mids pot and mid voicing switch which stopped the switch from working correctly.  The layout now posted corrects that error.  For anyone who has already built this and needs any assistance in adapting it, post a message in the comments and I'll explain what you need to do.  Thanks to Javi for helping fault find his build and confirm the correction]

Ok loads of people have asked for this and I decided if there was ever going to be a good time to do it, it would be straight after the Mutron II :o)

The 150LNDN3's are available from a few sellers on eBay but they are very expensive.  I think Mouser had plenty in when I was buying though and they were cheap from there, so that's where I'd look.  The 2N1306's are available from a few sellers on eBay but just use any NPN germanium if you don't want to buy anything specially.

The wiring for the expression pedal will depend on which one you're using, but if you know how it is set up it should be easy enough to adapt it in any way you need to your pedal.  Note that if you don't want to include the expression pedal jack, you need to connect Exp 1 and Exp 2 on the board, so just wire one to the other.

A charge pump daughterboard layout has been included with additional filtering to help keep this as noise free as possible.  Note that I have opted here for an LT1054 IC because I think it will be borderline for the current available from our usual ICL7660S.  By all means try that IC, but I think the extra capacity of the LT1054 will make it a good choice.

Info about the original:

the openhaus can create an array of modern, heavy distortion tones from popular amplifiers, without adjusting the amplifiers tone controls away from their optimum clean tone settings.

Short but sweet.  You'd have thought Ed would give his customers a bit more to read during their 5 year wait for the pedal.







Charge pump daughterboard:





Bill of Materials

IC OPA2604AP
4
Transistor LND150N3
2
Transistor 2N1306
2
Transistor 2N5457
1
Regulator 78L15
1
Potentiometer 10K Log
2
Potentiometer 100k dual Lin
1
Potentiometer  1M Log  
1
Potentiometer 10K Lin
1
Toggle switch   SPDT on/off/on
2
Toggle switch  SPDT on/on
1
Resistors 100R
1
Resistors 150R
2
Resistors 220R
1
Resistors 470R
2
Resistors 604R
1
Resistors 1K
3
Resistors 2K2
1
Resistors 3K3
2
Resistors 5K6
1
Resistors 7K5
2
Resistors 10K
6
Resistors 14K
1
Resistors 20K
3
Resistors 30K
2
Resistors 47K
2
Resistors 56K
3
Resistors 100K
4
Resistors 120K
1
Resistors 150K
1
Resistors 180K
1
Resistors 220K
1
Resistors 470K
2
Resistors 680K
2
Resistors 1M
7
Capacitors 51p
1
Capacitors 330p
2
Capacitors 560p
1
Capacitors 1n
1
Capacitors 1n2
4
Capacitors 2n2
1
Capacitors 4n7
1
Capacitors 5n6
1
Capacitors 22n
1
Capacitors 33n
2
Capacitors 47n
4
Capacitors 100n
2
Capacitors 120n
1
Capacitors 1u
7
Capacitors 22u
1
Capacitors 100u
1
Capacitors 220u 25V
1
Capacitors 470u 25V
1

54 comments:

  1. A very easy challenge :P Anyway, whick is the prize?

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    Replies
    1. Some LDRs and a couple of transistor array ICs :o)

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    2. OK ok, I'll send the winner a goodie bag with a nice selection of parts including some mojo stuff. So who's first? :o)

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  2. Small correction made, now updated

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  3. My head asplode.

    This site is ascending to god-like levels of greatness

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  4. Fack, that thing is huge!

    Gonna put this one on the to do list.

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  5. I'm going to build this again. I built the Sabrotone version but I think his may be screwed up somehow, because it works, but it's really dark. Like, I have to turn the treble up all the way to get a decent sound. I'm going to put this one in my old pedal and see what happens.

    Major question, I've been after a Vero of the Dove, which is a lighter gain version of this... Does anyone know the differences?

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    Replies
    1. No I've seen gut shots but nothing that would tell me what the differences were. We'll get hold of one some day and it will be done then.

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    2. Hi ,i built the openhaus and i have the same problem.Its a bit dark and the treble pot doesnt do much..What did you do to fix it?Tha A1 and A2 are together as for the B1 and B2?I don`t really get what i should do with the treble pot.Please help

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  6. If anyone wants to see the enclosure I used, here's my enclosure for it. I may be able to fit this board inside better, as the other layout was a major headache to squeeze into a 1590BB!

    http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr195/casiotone1331/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_120425808761714_zps4gvtfwf0.jpeg

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  7. I built one from sabro's layout and really loved the tone... I built it with a charge pump, too. Maybe it's because I usually don't like high gain pedals? :D

    casiotone1331, please let us know how both layouts compare!

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  8. I built sabros as well, and it works perfectly. Treble control is nowhere near full on. This is a huge pedal to build but totally worth it.

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  9. Some people would be grateful for a bill of material :-)
    Its quite a beast!

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    Replies
    1. I've added a passives BOM below the layout.
      I've also just updated the layout because Javi tells me it was a struggle to get all those caps at the bottom left, so I've left the 470u and (now) 220u there, and moved the 100n and 1n to the left of Q5.

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  10. Many people asked for this moster but no one dared to face it XDDDDD. Well matey, you can tag it, it works with no problem, just noticed that the gain pot seems reversed, the rest is OK.

    I have built it with substitutes while i wait for the right parts to come: 2n1304 (these are right) jrc4558 and 2n3819, so i suppose that with the OPA and the LND the sound will improve dramatically. Anyways the distorition is brutal and the volume can blow your room walls, so, handle with care :P

    J.

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    Replies
    1. You beauty. Nice one matey you're a star.

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    2. Thank you matey :) By the way, forget about the gain wiring, my pot seems to be acting in a weird way :P Just reversed as per the original and works great :P Funny shit

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  11. Can you suggest an appropriate enclosure for this project?
    Also i can find the OPA2604.Whats the difference with the OPA2604AP?
    Thanks

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    Replies
    1. It will fit in a 125B, but I suspect most people will want to put it in a 1590BB so it will look like the original in dimensions, and they can do the same pot layout.

      OPA2604 will be fine as long as it's DIP8. The suffix digits usually denotes something like temperature range, case package style (SOP8, DIP8 etc) or packing methods/quantities, and so as long as it's DIP8 the rest is largely irrelevant unless you're going to be playing near a furnace or the North Pole :o)

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  12. The dual Lin treble pot is a stereo one?

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  13. Also i see in the pictures of the original pedal that it has 3 more pots for low and high mids and sizzle.
    Is there a way to include those?

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    Replies
    1. That isn't the Openhaus, it's the newer Openhaus EQ where he's added a couple of extra EQ stages. If a schematic comes up then I may add it as the new version, but in all honesty I don't expect it to come up any time soon. None of the usual people who reverse pedals will be interested enough in how Ed has altered it to spend $400 and wait who knows how long. The EQ of this is fairly comprehensive as it stands, and if I wanted a bit more I'd add an EQ pedal after it.

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    2. Hi Mark.
      Will a charge pump like the one you post, 7660S, work for this?

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    3. You can try it, but I think this circuit will need too much current for it. The ICL7660S can only provide around 44mA whereas the LT1054 can provide 100mA. The OPA2604's will each need something around 10-12mA so straight away you're up to 40mA in the best case scenario, and although the transistors won't be using much at all, I still think you'll be getting a little too close for comfort to the limit.

      If you want to give it a try, use the charge pump layout above but remove the cut between 1 and 8, remove the link up from pin 7 and remove the 10p cap. Then you'll also be able to remove the unused row at the top.

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    4. What is the best replacement for 2n1306?

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    5. I just try any npn germanium .,just like 2n2369.. Ac127 with bad result
      :-(

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  14. I've been checking the schematics around the schematics around the Mid Voice switch, and everything looks correct, but there's a noticebale volume drop when you choose Pos 1 or 3, puttin' in parallel the 56 or the 120k resistor with the 1m one from IC 4 pin 5 to + VB.

    I can find no reasom, but checkin' the demos of the original, there's no output drop.

    Any ideas?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well, finally we did manage to find the f*cking error :P Never trust the most good looking schematics XDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD.

      Funny thing is that the pedal did sound great, but droped the volume when mid voice switch was at 1 or 3 :P

      Now I can go to sleep XDDDDDDDDDDDDDD

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    2. Thanks mate, you have a lie in in the morning :o)

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  15. Well, just would like to give my opinion about this effect.

    No doubt that this is a really great high gain distortion pedal, maybe, one of the best I've ever tried. Besides the high gain, the Openhaus shines too in mid and low gain settings.

    No doubt either than Ed did a great job with this circuit, he knows how to design a circuit and knows too how to stop people cloning his pedals.

    By no means I would build this effect for less than €400: lots of components, more than 100 pieces. Very expensive and hard to source parts: Opa's, LND. 2n1306, 2N5457.... Just the opamps and transistors are about € 45-50, and the rest (enclosure, pots, switches, and so on) can raise the price to about €75. A nice invest to start a clone.

    Of course, you can source parts at cheaper places, use replacements, and so on, but if you want the real components, be ready to burn your credit card.

    And after the invest, you need lots of time to build the effect. Is a very complicated build, many different values (and some not very usual) for resistors and caps.

    As I said, the result is great, incredible pedal. The problem is.... that at least for my taste, is not by any means the best. Would choose blindly the Triple Wreck or the Dominator for this kind of effect. Both with singles or hb, valves or transistor amp, no matter how I try it, i feel the TW and the Dominator some steps ahead.

    I think that the Openhaus, is the modern Centaur: lots of hype, hard and expensive to get and finally, yeah, it's great but not THAT great.

    I built this effect as a challenge, no intention to build more for me or for anybody, and after listening different demos before I built it, I suspected that would not be the Holy Grail as many state.

    Of course, that's my opinion, I don't own the truth :)

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    Replies
    1. Hy Javicap..how about 2n1306 HFE ? any hfe is OK?

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    2. In freesb tell that the reversed unit is something like 82 hfe for Q3 and 100 for Q4. I n my build both are high seventies and work great. I used to higher HFE's (over 100) and apeeared some hiss, so i'd tell that something between 70-90 will work ok.

      J.

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    3. thanks for the quick response..
      but damn, i only have 2x 2n1306 with 60 HFE arghh

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    4. Just try'em, you have nothing to lose :P

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    5. haha..javicap, please do demo,, demo demo demo :P

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    6. No problem, as soon as someones gives me a nice mic + sound card, I'll do demos of the pedals I don't intend to sell :P.

      I refuse to record with something like the Guitar rig or mobile phones, it doesn't matter if you use a Joyo or a DAM, they all sound the same :P

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  16. Mark.
    What is needed to correct the mid issue?
    I put this into a 125b and it looks like a Jag under the bonnet! Hardly any air at all!
    The mid switch not working well is the only issue. Javi is right. Unless this improves greatly.
    Build the Triple Wreck or the SLO100/Zendrive with 18v!!
    jeff

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    Replies
    1. De-solder the 7K5 and get a new one, solder the top lead where it is currently connected, then stretch over to the other side of the board and solder the other end to pin 1 of the bottom IC in that gap next to the 1n. You may be able to lie it flat horizontally between the two ICs and then just bend some of the lead downward to make the required connection, but you may need to insulate the leads so you don't short anything out.

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    2. That's it. If it helps you, I just desoldered the lowe pin of the resistor, soldered to it a new (isolated) wire long enough to get to Pin 1 of the lower IC without sorting any other component.

      J.

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  17. Help.
    Hi everyone. I built this and misplaced the 47n cap in the upper left corner, closest to input.
    I mistakenly put it one row down. Closer to Q3 by one hole. I fixed it and the pedal works but I wonder if it works like it should. My question is. Can anyone tell me if I ruined any components by the incorrect placement of that 47n cap.
    I wonder because the distortion is not 'over the top' like the video and the gain mode switch seems to give almost a clean tone in 2 of the 3 positions. If anyone can help please let me know.
    jeff

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    1. I bet you have not ruined anything, but I bet too that you still have some problem(s) more around, as this distortion is a really high and piercing one, so I'm afraid that debug time starts here (and not easy in such a big board like this). Get your audiprobe, and lots of patience. The misbehaviour og the gain mode switch is pointing some clear directions.

      J.

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  18. Yep. I also used 22k resistors instead of 20k's for starters.....UGH!!!
    I am going over the board again...thanks a lot Javi

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  19. Hi All!
    Firstly, this page is AWESOME, I feel myself in the tone paradise.
    But I'm not a pro, so I have a silly question: in the charge pump can I use 1n5819 instead of 1n5817?

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    Replies
    1. Yes no problem, it's just rated to a higher voltage

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  20. Thanx, IvIark! It's good to read :)

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  21. Hi,
    I ordered 7 1uf caps and by mistake I chose tantalum caps.then I realized that they are polarized...is there a way to make them work in this circuit and how or do I have to get new non polarized?thanks

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    1. you'll have to place them so that the negative and positive face the correct directions.

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    2. Ok but how am i supposed to know which is the correct direction in the openhaus tagboard schematic?
      Thanks


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  22. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  23. Hi all,
    I have a problem with the charge pump.By itself works and produces 18 volts.When i connect it to the board when i measure it it produces 6,3 volts...Why is this happening and what could i do to fix it?I use the LT1054 CN IC.
    Please help

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    Replies
    1. Hi Boukman,
      Maybe a short in you circuit right after your charge pump... It can be short to ground and suck a part of your 18V...
      For those who want I've reproduce the original openhaus pcb and I'll be happy to share it we those of you who want it! I try to build this headache machine 5 times and always had troubles, but with the original pcb, which is pretty clear and neat, I built it and did it worked the first time without have to debugg something!!
      Simply ask me and I will give all I made!

      Alex.

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    2. Hi Alex,
      the thing is that if i use my T-rex fueltank junior with a voltage doubling cable (two 9v) it stays 18v...
      I can`t understand why we use 470uf and 47uf and 10,while the other pumps use 100uf and 2 10ufs..
      And the circuit works (i don`t know if it sounds like it is supposed to though..)
      The PCB would be nice if its no trouble for you to send it...

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    3. This comment has been removed by the author.

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