Monday, 9 July 2012

Seamoon Funk Machine V2

The FUNK MACHINE is a synthesizer that can be used with any amplified musical instrument. Bass Guitar ... Guitar .. . Fender Rhodes ... Harmonica ... Horns .. . Clavinet.

The FUNK MACHINE is primarily designed for use with Bass Guitar, but you will find that all other instruments will work very well. On Bass Guitar you get a sound that Is heard everywhere in recording these days. The unusual sounds coming from the Basses of Larry Graham, Sly Stone, Tower of Power, and Stanley Clarke are characteristic of the sounds of the Funk Machine.

On Guitar the FUNK MACHINE gives an effect similar to a WA WA pedal, the difference being that the FUNK MACHINE is electronically triggered by the players attack on the strings as opposed to the mechanical and foot action on the WA WA. The FUNK MACHINE gives a fender Rhodes a sound similar to a Clavinet, but because of the very low output of the Rhodes in some cases the signal generated by the piano is not strong enough to trigger the FUNK MACHINE on the extreme high notes on the piano.

Unlike most control knobs that are associated with electronic apparatus the FUNK MACHINE does not get its best effect by turning both controls to their full on position. In fact the FUNK MACHINE would get its worst effect by doing so. To get the best results read the instructions carefully.

1. Turn both controls on the FUNK MACHINE off.

2. Turn the volume control on the instrument to its full on position.

3. The FUNK MACHINE is voltage controlled meaning that the harder the note is struck the greater the FUNK EFFECT. Bear this in mind because as you adjust the controls you are as much responsible for the sound as the FUNK MACHINE.

4. Strike a low note on your instrument in a repetitive manner, (Bass Guitar "D" string, Guitar "A" string). At the same time you arc striking a low note on your instrument in a repetitive manner slowly turn the FILTER RANGE control clockwise until the FUNK EFFECT is heard. Remember that the further the FILTER RANGE control is advanced, as well as how hard the note is being struck determines the amount of effect.

5. It you play Bass Guitar the FREQUENCY SHIFT control will move the range of the FUNK MACHINE into a lower frequency range that will easily accommodate the open "E" string on a Bass Guitar. A little experimenting with the FREQUENCY SHIFT and the FILTER RANGE control will yield great results.

6. NOTE FOR BASS GUITAR: The FUNK MACHINE can be used as a sub-harmonic bass filter which will cleanly lower the bass response by two full octaves. To accomplish this simply turn the FILTER RANGE control off and use the FREQUENCY SHIFT control only.

7. Unplug the unit when not in use to increase battery life.

A helpful hint for the FUNK MACHINE as well as your other effects is to use a Y cord from your guitar into the second channel of your AMP. By splitting the signal you don't loose any of the natural response from your AMP while using effects.


Demo of the V1 Funk Machine without the Frequency Shift conrol, but should still give you a good idea of what to expect.






127 comments:

  1. Dude! I'm so going to build this tomorrow.
    +m

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    1. Yes I think I may be doing too! :o)

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  2. when you say substitute the 47k for 390k, i'm guessing you mean the top left resistor, right?

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  3. Hmmm.. How about chaining a few B1Ms...
    +m

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    1. I was reading something Mark Hammer wrote about the circuit where he basically said that a 5M was unnecessary because the additional resistance gave you an unusable sound and that he wouldn't use larger than a 1M and suggested the 390K to replace the 47K. I also read someone who had taken the advice and used a 1M with a 330K and said it sounded great, so I thought I'd stick with that as an alternative.

      You can get B5M pots though if you really want them, a UK eBay seller has them for £1.99.

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  4. This has jumped straight to the top of my build list, any chance of posting the causality layout for a while tomorrow, I need to print it off and go over a couple of things ;-)

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    1. It's back mate, I thought it made more sense to leave it published and just mark it up as on hold so people know.

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  5. having purchased the original single knob one in the plastic case back in the mid-70's, i can't thnk you enough you for posting this one. i'm going to build it tomorrow.

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  6. Great, this is exactly the kind of effect I like. I'll build it somtime this summer and compare it to the EH nano Dr Q

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  7. I'm getting sound when I pull the trannie out, but when I put it back in it has a high pitched squeal. When the transistors out the freq knob sweeps thru fine and the depth knob isn't doing anything. Tried a few different transistors with the same results

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    1. What voltages are you getting on the transistor and IC pins?

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  8. IC
    1-4.18
    2-4.19
    3-4.10
    4-0
    5-8.35
    6-7.63
    7-6.26
    8-0

    Transistor
    E-0
    B-1.66
    C-0

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    1. I think you've got the 5 to 8 numbering the wrong way round, pin 8 would be top right and should be the 8.35V reading, pin 5 is bottom right and is direcly connected to ground so should be 0V. The voltages look a little high. Can you post a front and back pic of the board? Also what transistor and IC did you use?

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    2. I went top to bottom both sides. Used tl072 and 5088. Used 330k resistor with the 1m pot. Might try another board and compare. Didn't take long to knock up that one. That could've been my downfall tho

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    3. There are a few people building this today Brett so just give it a couple of hours or so until someone else reports back then it will give us a better idea if your problem is duplicated. I've been over the schematic and I'm fairly sure it's right, but I have made the odd faux pas in the past so you never know! :o)

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    4. I seem to have the same symptoms as Brett. I used the same IC and transistor, and a 360k together with the 1M pot. With the transistor in it just sounds like a weak white noise with a resonant filter on it when you sweep the frequency. My voltages seem similar:

      1 - 4.29
      2 - 4.29
      3 - 4.26
      4 - 0
      5 - 0
      6 - 5.82
      7 - 8.09
      8 - 8.84

      Transistor:
      E - 0
      B - 0.63
      C - 0

      I already took the knife out, and have reflowed everything.
      Hope this helps?

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    5. I have had similar problems with this, i'm using Tl072/5088 and 1m pot with 390k. I'm getting a hiss, the frequency of which can be controlled with the frequency pot but no signal and the depth pot doesn't seem to do anything.

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  9. Hey IvIark, I'm a bass player. I'm very hot under the collar to build this, but I'm thinking a blend knob may be a good addition instead of the recommended Y cable. What value pot would you recommend for this?

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    1. Well you're going to need some sort of buffer and splitter, just adding a blend pot to passively mix in the circuit will almost certainly stop you reaching unity. Consider using something like this:

      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/split-n-blend.html

      Which will allow you to blend the effect in with the dry signal with the benefit of a buffer to avoid the signal loss.

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  10. alright, that makes sense. so the send and return would be the input and output of the funkmachine circuit, and the in and out of the splitter would go the the 3pdt, yes? and I could run both of these off one single 9v input as well, right?

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    1. Yep. Then you have a buffered dry signal, a buffered effect signal and you can blend between the two.

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    2. sick! will I be able to cram all this into a 'B' sized enclosure? or would I be better off with a 'BB'?

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    3. Yes it would easily fit in a B box. The blender board is only small so stick that on one of the sides somewhere and mount the Funk Machine as usual. You'd still only need 3 pots total so it shouldn't be a problem.

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    4. sweet. I'll have to start posting pictures of the builds I make. I've been using clear-shaft pots with LEDs as well as light plates, and if I can fit another small daughterboard in this enclosure I have a pretty good idea for the status indicator.

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  11. No-one called it yet? I'll start on it now :)
    +m

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    1. please for the love of God and all that is holy, verify this one!!

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    2. A few seem to have issues, but I've checked it over several times and can't see anything wrong. Here's the little graphic I make up to do the check:

      http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/Layouts/Vero/SeamoonFunkMachineV2-check.png

      The schematic has had the pin numbering changed to reflect the dual opamp instead of two LM741's.

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    3. Hope to finish mine tomorrow..

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    4. sorry, i'm new in this... i see 7 caps in the schematic and 8 caps in your vero layout. where is that 100uf cap?

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    5. That's used for power filtering, and it does not affect the signal path. As you can see, the schematic uses only battery. Now, if we replace the battery with cheap or otherwise wonky wall wart, there's a good chance to get badly beahving variance affecting how the effect works. It's just good practise to use one large cap between power source and ground to filter out any interference.

      Like i said, it really doesn't affect the sound in any way, so if you want, you can omit it. I tried this circuit without it while debugging, and it doesn't matter if it's there or not - when using battery.
      +m

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    6. oh... thanks for the answer!

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    7. oh... thanks for the answer!

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  12. Just to the people who have had issues, did you daisy chain out from the input to Depth 3?

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    1. I did.. There's just something wrong, but like you said, it seems to be on spot with the R. G. Keen's schem.

      I get sound through if i pull the transistor out. But once that's in there.. Nothing. Just piercing squeel if i touch the 1M pot's lugs 1/2.

      Now wait a minute....

      Output cap should be 4n7 and not 47n. That shouldn't prevent it from working though... Another question that comes to mind is that 10µF connected to the emitter..
      +m

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    2. If you mean by that the board point labeled 'input' to depth 3, and from depth 3 to input lug on switch: yes

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    3. In the SFM thread on FSB you could see in a gut shot that the cap was 47n not 4n7 so it must have been a mistake on the schematic. And the row the emitter is on is ground, so that 10u is from IC pin 3 to ground.

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    4. Noticed the ground about 5 seconds after hitting publish.. I think i'll try to snip the power filter, grab the voltages and probe some..
      +m

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    5. Ok. Singal travels nicely through 50K pot and all the way to pin 7, but there's no signal on pin 2, which i think is quite important. Voltages with battery at 9.09 and both pots at max:
      4.09, 4.08, 3.33, 0, 0, 2.33, 7.46, 8.18
      e:0, b:0.62, c:0

      I can see it's not healthy.. I'll check again for brigdes and other usual suspects.
      +m

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    6. Someone did a PCB on FSB and at least a couple of people built it successfully, whereas one person had whistling which I presume is what you're experiencing. The only difference that I can see tracing it through is that the voltage divider on pin 3 is a 47k to ground and 47k to 9V as opposed to 470k to ground and 470k to 9V in the schematic and this layout.

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    7. I think i cracked it. The guilty party here seems to be - wait for it - the opamp. I'll go through every dual opamp i have, but so far i had best results with HA17458 with 2N5088. I'll keep on swapping..
      +m

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    8. Nice one Miro, maybe the FET inputs for that opamp make biasing more difficult (you should be used to that! :o). The LM1458 should be a good alternative to stick to bipolar input and output stages of the opamps.

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    9. you guys are awesome!! ordering parts tonight!

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    10. I wouldn't get too exited yet.

      Got it to "work" with NE5532 and MPSA13. First off, the opamp still doesn't bias right. It sounds wrongly biased, just like FF with trimpot at the louder end. The transistor seems to control the speed that the synth wave slaps back, so MPSA13 works. 2N5088 and anything lower makes the synth sweep too slow - Meaning that the attack is way too slow.

      Maybe the opamp could benefit from a trimmer?

      I wouldn't go so far and call this yet, since it sounds nothing like in the demo. It sounds just like wrongly biased gain stage can sound - bad.
      +m

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    11. Funnily the NE5532 has a bipolar input and output too. Try swapping the 470K's for 47K's. Also upping the 2M2 to 2M7 or 3M3 has also been suggested.

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    12. Swapped those 3 resistors, and it didn't change much. It still gets distorted where it should do the filter sweep. This one will be hard to get right...
      +m

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  13. LM1458/2n5088 combo works for me, not exactly like the demo but that may be down to the frequency pot, seems to just darken it and suck tone. sounds funkin cool with the frequency full up but the depth pot has a decent range although not all of it usable.

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    1. That's to be expected too. In the instructions it says that unlike other effects the fully clockwise position isn't the best sound, in fact it says it's the worst. So by the nature of the beast it sounds like there are limits to the useful rotation of both pots.

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    2. really liking this. nice and funky. How about a dod 440 layout PLEEEAAASSE :-)

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    3. I would like to second the 440 request!

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  14. great call on the 1458! the TL072 wasn't working at all for me. my 5088's haven't come in yet so i'm using an NTE123AP and it's working pretty well. i also changed the listed 47n output cap to a 4n7 to match the schematic. it sounds pretty close to my original but it has more click/clack when it triggers and the envelope seems to sweep faster than i remembered it.

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    1. That's funny about the output cap, but it's got me thinking. In the original diagram the 33K resistor is shown as a 13K, so I'm wondering if those values were correct for the version originally traced by RG, and the correction made by Analogguru was simply a change to the circuit in a later model? I think if the output cap sounds right at 4n7 then it's definitely worth swapping that resistor to 13K (or 12K) just to see how it affects things.

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    2. I'll try those when i get home from work..
      +m

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  15. okay. until my 5008's get here, i tried an 2n3904, a 2n2222A, an NTE123AP and an NTE123A. the 2n3904 works pretty well (it has less quack) but it doesn't sweep as high of a freq. so, it appears that to get this one right, it's going to need the perfect tranny or at least bias one perfectly for it.

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  16. Anyone tried with a 4558 ic?

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    1. Acts in the same manner as TL072. So it doesn't work.
      +m

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    2. The 4558 has a FET output which may again be the issue

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  17. i don't think that the IC is the problem. for me, 1458's work perfect in it.

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    1. You probably couldn't get it working with TL072 either?
      +m

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    2. nope. the TL072 didn't work at all for me. it's almost there but IMO, it still needs some transistor tweaks. the 5532 wasn't as good as the HA17458, but all of my versions of the 1458 work about as well as the HA17458.

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    3. BTW, i tried a 13K instead of the 33K and it didn't work well at all (it wouldn't trigger the envelope). i also tried a 22K ( and that was muddy/dull sounding), so, for me, the 33K was the best one so far.

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    4. Annoying little bastard this circuit. Simple and low on component count, but still manages to be nearly unclonable.
      +m

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    5. so John, did it work more or less like the demo video for you with the 1458? Also, aren't you on the talkbass forums?

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    6. it's not quite there yet. i'll have to spend some more time trying to get it right. once my 5088's get here (tomorrow) i'll have another go at it. and yes, i'm on the TB forums frequently.

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    7. cool. i look forward to the updates. im on there too, though more a lurker than anything else

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  18. I got it working with a 1458, 2n5088 and 4,7 output.
    changing the 33k for a 12k is not a good idea, hishy sound.
    So I put the 33k back in place and it working quite well..

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    1. I guess since we`ve both had successful build this can be tagged as another verified circuit, woohoo.

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    2. what did you change to 4.7? the resistor or the cap going to output?

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  19. I had (what I consider to be) better results with a 1458 & MPSA14 than I did with 1458 & 2n5088. Both configs worked, but the effect was louder with MPSA14, but the unit was more responsive to pick attack (& quacky I guess) with the 2n5088. That said re; the volume, it was only a case of backing off the depth to achieve desired volume, but with the MP, depth could be cranked full without loss of volume. But yeah, VERIFIED

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    1. i just got my 2n5008's and tried them in it and it's pretty much the same as with the other trnasistors that i've tried (too quacky for me). so yes, the circuit certainly does work, but i'm not personally going to call it 'verified' until it sounds like the original which wasn't so harsh on the attack. IMO, it needs just a bit more fine tuning. YMMV.

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  20. Cheers guys. Yes I think we can call this one verified now even if it is a bit temperamental!

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  21. Hi guys I've been following the thread with some interest as I'm going to try to make one for the bass player in our band. From what Milkit has described the MPSA14 compared to the 2N5088 I'm thinking of trying a 2N5089, as from my experience it is just acts like a louder 2N5089 (I have subbed it in my Keeler Pull and COT50 builds succesfully before). I need to order the chip and then build the pedal to confirm the differences (I do have some 2N5088 to compare). If anyone who has made this has one at hand to try in the meantime, can they let us know how they get on.

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    1. i don't thiunk that you need any higher gain since it triggers the envelope just fine with a bunch of different trannys. IMO, it just needs the exact right one.

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    2. Do you mean the transistor type John or gain? I did a layout a month or so ago for a Fuzz Face with paired transistors with controllable gain via a trimmer so you can set it exactly as you want it. I'm wondering whether something like that would be useful for this so you could test while fine tuning the actual gain?

      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/06/npn-silicon-fuzz-face-germanium.html

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    3. i think it needs the correct type. i've tried quite a few of them (2N3904, 2N222A, 2N5088, NTE123A,, NTE123AP, 2N3906) and all of them work (some better than others) but the quack is obnoxious and way louder than the original. i'm not sure if it's the gain that that's the issue but it might be. i'm going to order some 2N3565's from smallbear since that's what they used in the originals (and as well as 40006's) and the originals didn't have anywhere near this much quack. from what i understand the 2N3904 is supposed to be a good substitute for the 2N3565 but maybe not in this particular circuit.

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    4. BTW, i got my 5meg pot for it today and just installed it. it seems to work a little better than the 1M with the resistor. now i just need to tune the transistor.

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    5. When i was playing around with this, i noticed that hfe of the transistor mostly affects the attack speed of the envelope. With 2N2222 and lower hfe transistors, the attack part of the envelope sweep was just too long, while it started to get "normal" with BC109/2N5088 and higher.
      +m

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  22. To those who have built this, does it retain the low end well? I'll be using it on bass, and was wondering if adding a blend to it would be necessary.

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    1. Wanna hear it? I'll record a little demo for you if you do!

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    2. yeah that would be awesome!!

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    3. Check it;

      http://soundcloud.com/milkit-2/seamoon-1-01

      I have forgotten to give any bypass signal though I'm afraid.

      Seamoon, into my UX2 toneport on a Tweed setting.

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    4. & I've also forgotten to note what settings the pots are at, but depth is full & I think I take the frequency from 0-5-10.

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    5. mine works, but it doesn't sound like that (your's sounds better!). what transistor and chip are you using?

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    6. Was that a 1458 and MPSA14 mate?

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    7. i just tried an MPS14, an NTE46, an NTE47. none of those got rid of the quack issue but the NT46 was the best one so far. i have some NOS fairchild 2N3565's coming from smallbear so we'll see how they do. keep in mind that i'm using mine with a p bass. it may not quzck as much with a guitar, but my mid 70's original worked great on both all of guitars and all of my basses.

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    8. Yeah mate was a 1458 & mpsa14. The ic though, was an old RCA 1458 I pulled from my old music man 210RD. I think it's branded as a 1458G if the "G" has anything to do with it.

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  23. Replies
    1. Build & enjoy buddy. Hope this was/is of use!

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    2. absolutely! That sample was the selling point

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  24. i just got my NOS fairchild 2N3565's in today and so far, it's the best transistor in it for me yet, so i guess it's time to build the encloure for it. i've tried a bunch of different 1458's (and some 5532's)too. the 5532's didn't work well at all in mine, and some of the 1458's weren't much better (weak and distorted). my favorite 1458 so far is a national semiconductor LM1458N

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  25. i was wondering, although it 'shouldn't make a lick of a difference, but i wonder if there was a reason for dual 741 layout. it seems that the direct dual opamp replacement for a single amp LM741 is the LM747 so i'm going to try one of those next.

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    1. I always considered the LM1458 to be a dual channel version of the LM741 and hadn't even heard of the LM747 until now. It seems to have more features and is a 14pin DIP, but I'll be interested to hear how it sounds if you try it.

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    2. well, i'd have to make a whole new one since the LM747 is a 14 pin chip, but the 747 is a TRUE dual 741, whereas the 1458 really isn't. supposedly, the LM358, LM258 and LM2904's are said to be much closer to an acutal 741 only a dual in an 8 pin dip format so i'm going to try a bunch of those next beofre i attempt a new build.

      i must've tried 8 different 1458's today (and from different manufacturers-- TI (three versions), national semiconductor, hitachi, SFT, ON electronics and fairchild) and they all sounded different, some better than others, so i'm willing to try a bunch of 358's, 258's and 2904's just to see if it helps, since i know that i have the correct transistor for it now (the same one that they used in the originals)

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  26. John Have you tried changing the 10uf caps to 0.1uf? My reading on the forums has been that this is better for bass. I'm just about to start building this am will give it a go myself.

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    1. no. not yet. my original one worked great with a bass stock, but i'm willing to try it on this one, although it is triggering the envelope just fine with the 2N3565.
      i just ordered a whole bunch of different chips for it: LM358's (various brands & #'s), LM2904's (various brands & #'s), LM258's (various ones)and even an LF244 to try in it, since i have a feeling that a closer match to a true LM741 might be the ticket to making it sound the way that it should. mine's pretty good right now, but i think that it could be even better.

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  27. That's a lot of IC's to try! Let us know which comes out the best. I'm making this with the 100R resistor socketed as I will try from 47R up to 1K to adjust the sensitivity of the way the envelope works. Also the 2M2 for the same reason. The 10ufs socketed so can try 0.1uf to compare. This is only going to be used on one guitar in our band and I will adjust it to work best with the lipstick pickups it has and how our Bass player plays. So to recap so far, you are using the original 5m pot with the 47k resistor, a 2N3565, and national semiconductor LM1458N?

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  28. yep, i have 2n3565, a national semi LM1458N and a 5M freq pot. it's pretty good, but it could be better. i'll unsolder my caps in install sockets for the 10uf's and see if lowering their value helps tomorrow.

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    1. okay. now we're getting somewhere. lowering the values of the caps reduces alot of the quack, but lowering the 2nd one too much makes the output too distorted and grainy. i've tried .1uf's,.22uf's, .47uf's, 1uf's, 2.2uf's, and 4.7uf's and i might be able to get it where i want it by substituting different valus in the two locations. i haven't tried changing any values of the reistors yet but i might socket a couple of the those too.

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  29. From my reading the resistors control both when/how the envelope opens (the type of pickups you are using might have affect here - active or not etc - on what is right for you).

    The 2M2 can be increased to 2M7 to increase overall sensitivity. The 100R when increased will become more sensitive but adjustment is only useful up to 1K. It will decrease as it is lowered but only going down to 47R is suggested.

    This is all anecdotal stuff I've noted down from the internet and not my own experience

    By the 2nd cap do you mean the one on the right?

    Any preferences of values yet?

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    1. i'm using a passive, stock '62 p bass (pretty much the standard as far as basses go). i socketed the 2M2 and tried a 1M5, 3M, 3M3 and it was all pretty much the same so i'm going to stick with the stock 2M2. i'll try changing the 100R one next.

      and yes, by the 2nd 10u cap, i mean the one on the right. about 4.7u is as low as i would go on that one.

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  30. When you changed the resistor value was it with stock caps?

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  31. yes. i don't like changing any other component values when i'm trying to determine the effect of changing one of them.

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  32. SUCCESS! i read on th FSB forums that these pedal are improved greatly with a buffer run in front of it, so i placed it after my direct drive that has a split 'n' blend in it. that way, by setting the direct drive's blend control to 'dry' i could A/B it with and without the buffer by clicking the DD's bypass in & out. IMO, the FM's wah effect got 10X better with the buffer, and much of the hard quackiness was alleviated. my circuit in the funk machine is stock, i.e. no resistor or capacitor changes, with the exception of running a 3M3 reistor in place of the 2M2 one, and installing a a split 'n' blend in it. i actually think it not only sounds like my early 70's original, but even better, plus, now that i can blend in some of the original signal, it's even more flexible. i highly recommend this one for bass.

    here's a of pic of the completed pedal:
    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/AutoWahs/01-Funkmachine-clone.jpg

    ....and wouldn't you know it? i just got 18 different dual 741 type op amps from mouser today (LM358's LM258's, 2904's etc), but it sounds so good now, i have no need to even try them in it!

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    1. Awesome John. Based on that I think I'll add a modified layout with a simple JFET buffer and maybe one with the blend as well if you think that would be useful for my bass playing brothers!

      And don't worry about those ICs, I'm sure we can come up with something you can use them in! :o)

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    2. IMO, the buffer and the blend bring the pedal up to the 21st century. i have an EH enignma Q balls and an MXR M82 envelope filter, and while they're both really nice pedals, i actually like the seamoon with the blend better than both of them. ;-)

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    3. Well that pretty much decides it then, modified layout on the way! :o)

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    4. Sounds great John glad you cracked it! I see only two jack sockets on your pedal. Have you just wired the send and receive wires straight to the input and output of the SFM? Did you put a buffer in there as well, if so what kind - an IC one like the Klon or Jfet like the Cornish?

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    5. yeah. the pedal is awesome now with the blend/buffer. the split n blend is actually a dual jfet buffer, so that's what i used. i didn't use any send/receive jacks, but instead just hardwired into the pedal. here's a pic of the inside of the pedal to show what i mean:

      http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/AutoWahs/02-Funkmachine-clone.jpg

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    6. Cool! Thanks ever so much for your help.

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    7. your more than welcome. glad i could help. ;-)

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  33. if you'd like to hear it with my p bass, here's a clip of me noodling around with it with various blend and filter settings. (pardon the clams!)

    http://soundcloud.com/johnk_10/seamoon-funkmachine-noodling

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    1. Oh yeah, that sounds great, thanks for sharing the clip John. I'm definitely missing an autowah type effect, so this is next for me.

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  34. I thought about it for some time, but i think that using TL072 or other "normal" dual opamp would always need bias power supply that provides 4,5V and 9V voltages - the one with two 10K resistors and one 4µ7 cap. Schematic of this has only place for 9V supply, so that seems to be the reason why nothing else apart from LM1458 doesn't work.

    Just thought i'd share my chain of thought.. :)
    +m

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  35. Ok, so I'm really new to this but am itching to try to build it, so please go easy on me. If anyone is patient enough to help me, here are my questions:

    1: I don't understand the off-board wiring. I think it has 1 input, 1 output and 1 pot. The input and output would have (2?) wires each and the pot has three terminals for a total of 7. Other than the power and ground, I only see 6 wires coming off the board. And I have no clue where they go???

    2: Specs for the pot? I know this should be common knowledge for a pro, but I have no idea.

    3: What is the EBC?

    4: Q1 - 2N5088? The diagram has the 'Q1' off of the board. Where does it go?

    Sorry to be so new and thank you for a reply..

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    1. 1) Have a look at this, it will show exactly where the input, output, 9V and ground wires from the board should go and will also explain the pot lug numbering:

      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

      2) The specs for each pot is shown in the notes, and so for instance the Filter Depth Range pot is 50K linear.

      3) EBC shows the pinouts of the transistor (emitter, base and collector).

      4) Q1 is just an offboard identifier label for the transistor you can see above it. It's probably not necessary for a 1 transistor effect, but comes in handy when more than one transistor is used, particularly if the transistors are different types and/or have different pinouts.

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    2. Incidentally, if you want to build it I would suggest doing the buffered version here:

      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/seamoon-funk-machine-v2-with-blender.html

      By all accounts this version is too inconsistent depending on IC and transistor choices.

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    3. Extremely helpful, thank you.

      So for a label 'Freq 1 & 2,' I would solder a wire each onto pot terminal 1 and pot terminal 2 from the same vero trace?

      Also, the 3x3 terminal blue square in the offboard wiring guide is the pedal switch? What are the specs on that?

      This is it. I won't ask any more questions, I swear. I'll dive in after I know the answer to these two.

      Thanks again..

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    4. The easiest way to do it is to solder a single wire from the board to one of the lugs, and then solder a short link across lugs 1 and 2.

      The 3 x 3 square is a 3PDT stomp switch

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  36. In first thank you and sorry for my English(i'm french ^^ . I made funk machine with a ne5532, a BC550 and 1n4004 diode. When I play bass with and the funk machine, when the effect snaps the sound level decrease. If someone can help me thank you.
    Another question, the "100R" is a 100 ohm resistor?
    Thank you in advance for your help

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  37. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  38. I used BC549 (twisted 180°) instead of 5088, could work?
    If INPUT goes to Depth 3 also the input jack goes to Depth 3?

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  39. NO sound out bat if I discarge the battery the signal goes trough

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  40. So DEPTH 3 connects to both INPUT wire from board and INPUT lug on 3pdt switch?

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  41. This does not work for me. I used MC1458 and 2n5088, also 330k with 1M for Frequency. I get a hum sound and the frequency knob changes the tone of hum but I get no input sound from my guitar at all and depth knob does nothing. I did connect depth 3 to input with daisy chain. Seems like this should not be listed as verified being so many people are having problems with it.

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    1. Do you think it's more likely that everyone who has successfully built it just imagined it was working, or the few people who have a problem have made an error of some sort or are using an incompatible or faulty part?

      It's a temperamental circuit, but it works
      https://soundcloud.com/milkit-2/seamoon-1-01

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