Compact version with onboard sockets suitable for both DSG and DGS JFETs.
This version with separately mounted sockets for JFETs.
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yessssss! thank you. I'm going to build this later on tonight.
ReplyDeleteBear in mind when you build it, it's worth setting up a second set of sockets for DGS pin layouts. You can just daisy chain from the sockets shown so then you should be able to test the vast majority of different JFETs. My idea was to use a plastic box to house this and have the two sets of sockets mounted on the outside of the box and then maybe have banana sockets mounted to one side for you to connect up your multimeter. Then everything is kept neat and tidy and you have external access to everything you need.
Deleteverified, works great, thanks!
ReplyDeleteIt's 4AM and i can also say that this is verified. I added two rows and put a socket in for the transistor. I plan to use this just on the breadboard for now, i used two wires with a loop bent in the end to place my dmm test leads in. When i test the circuit with no transistor, i get a reading of +3.8V, i was just wondering if that sounds accurate to you. i had to use a 33uF capacitor because i can't find my 47uF's. Here is a pic i took with my cell phone, it's not the best quality. http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g304/jokersmile32/jfettest.jpg
ReplyDeleteYes that sounds fine and the 33uF cap is fine too, RG said you could use anything from 10u to 47u.
DeleteI've added a version with onboard sockets above for people like you who want to keep everying together on the board. I've also included extra sockets so both DSG and DGS JFETs can be measured.
DeleteHey Mark, could I use LM741 instead TL071?
ReplyDeleteYes it should be ok.
DeleteHi Mark
ReplyDeleteAny chance of explaining how to use this tester to me as a newbie...what i set my meter to, what im looking for etc...I looked on the suggested page from the post up a few places...but it dont actually tell me how to go about testing the components, well if it does, it lost me pretty early doors to be honest..on the greatly improved matcher layout it says for vp measurement..you have to " Negate " reading to obtain actual Vp, what does that mean ? sorry to be a complete knob but im trying to learn and need some of your experience please
Mark is away for a week.
DeleteNo probs..made it up..tested my jfets as best i could ...paired up values that were identical or v close..so i guess ive worked it out myself :0)
ReplyDeleteThis may sound a little bit stupid, but how do you know which pins you connect? I see what I need to put in which place, but what do I need to solder?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteEach horizontal line has its pins connected together right?
DeleteThey're links, so only the top and bottom where the blue dots are.
DeleteAnd what are those red squares with red dots inside them?
DeleteTrack cuts. This may be useful for you:
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/vero-build-guide.html
So they're just breaks in connections. I have a board when every hole is separated, so I dont need to drill and cut anything, but I need to solder all those horizontal connections + jumpers of course etc.
DeleteYes, that's perfboard not stripboard. All these layouts are based on stripboard because I think it's simpler to break the tracks than create them. Having said that, some things work very well with perf because you can take advantage of vertical as well as horizontal lines if you're creating your own tracks. But I stick to stripboard just to keep a common form.
DeleteI cant get it to work, my DMM shows voltage of 0.02 or smth... im so resigned, I already tried 2 jfet matchers and cant any of them to work...
DeleteWhat do you have your DMM set to?
DeleteIts set OK, it shows 9V on battery or power supply.
DeleteIt also shows 4.5V on every resistor and 9V between 4 and 7 pin of TL072.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDelete4.5V voltage on resistors is shown when my 2N5952 is in, without it there's 4.5V on only one resistor. Can you help me?
ReplyDeleteI've inserted JRC 386 and it shows around 5.25V when there is no transistor, but when I plug 2N5952 it shows on all off them the voltage of 4.10V, while the max for them is 3.5V.
DeleteOK hold on, I just spotted that I soldered capacitor in wrong direction. Clever, eh?
DeleteStill nothing. 0.02V on DMM...
DeleteI don't think you can use a JRC386 for this... that's an audio amp. You want a single channel op amp like a TL071.
Deleteit doesnt work with TL072 either.
Deleteit doesnt work with TL072 either.
ReplyDeleteTl072 is a dual opamp, you need a single opamp. As a general guide single opamps usually end with a 1 (tl071 etc) dual opamps end 2 (tl072 etc) and quad opamps end 4 (tl074 etch)
DeleteNooooooo waaaaaaay, I spend like 6 hours today working on this matcher... Thanks for your reply, gonna check it tomorrow when I get my hands on some single channel opamps :)
DeleteOr you could always build the improved JFET matcher:
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/greatly-improved-jfet-matcher.html
which doesn't use any opamps.
I have enough of soldering for a year :D I have the JFET Matcher built so I just gonna put right opamp in the socket tomorrow and match the fets :)
DeleteIt works, thanks a lot for help guys!
DeleteI built this and it works great. One question though. I don't have a power switch on mine, so when I insert and remove the JFETs, the power is always on. Is this bad for the transistors, to do that when the power is live? Should I add a little switch to kill the power for the insertion/removal process? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteis this also good as a tester? on what i have to set my dmm, an what does it show, if the transistor is right oder defekt.
ReplyDeleteHi all.
ReplyDeleteI just managed to find 10 2N5457s and tested them. I got 5 between 3.14 and 3.17. is that close enough for matching them as a set?