If you're not interested in the tuner out you could just take the input straight to the bottom right hand lug of the buffer switch. If you're not interested in the buffer either you could just take the input straight to the bottom right hand lug of the first loop switch. And although this is for 5 loops it's totally modular so you should be able to adapt it easily for fewer or more loops as is necessary.
Well you know it's verified haha thanks again man.
ReplyDeleteIs the buffer circuit implied? I'm sure you don't mean to connect to JUST a stripborad.
ReplyDeleteI guess this should be used with any of these:
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2012/02/cornish-buffer.html
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2011/04/klon-buffer.html
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2012/02/mad-professor-ruby-red-booster.html
All three are absolutely great choices.
+m
Note that on the Ruby Red i only mean the buffer board and no the boost itself...
Delete+m
Yes it's implied. Thetinnedman who the layout was for wasn't sure whether to use a Cornish or Klon buffer and the circuit was irrelevant for this anyway, the wiring will remain the same no matter what you use.
Deletethere's the same but midi?
ReplyDeleteTo be honest even though I'm a rack user I don't have the time or inclination to get involved with MIDI implementation at the moment. I have made a MIDI looper in the past but it's something that I'm only ever likely to use once or a couple of times at most, and that makes it a lot of time you potentially have to invest in developing something you may never make use of again. When I did it in the past I bought a Highly Liquid board from here:
Deletehttp://store.highlyliquid.com/collections/midi-decoders/products/msa-t
which can be used to drive relays which control the individual loops.
What size enclosure did you use for this configuration? Any suggestions on where to source one big enough for all 7 switches, LEDs, etc.? I've checked the usual suspects, none seem to have one that appears to be long enough. Loop-master has some really long ones, but I'm sure he gets them made specifically for his applications.
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Is there a possibility of drawing up other unusual configs? Such as a 2 button looper that engages A/B with one switch and A+B on the other?
ReplyDeleteYou talking about something like the radial big shot ab/y?
DeleteMore like this:
Deletehttp://www.loop-master.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=240
If I may I'd like to bump this question. I built myself a loop switcher for A/B/C, connecting 3 dirt pedals selecting 1 only, using two switches. Here's a diagram; http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss306/rogertje/Switch/layout2.jpg courtesy of Roger Arts at newtoneforum.nl For other purposes I'd like to use a switcher capable of A / B / A+B / bypass.
DeleteThe link isn't working
Deleteoops... I'll get another link to that particular diagram
DeleteSeems to have been clicked out on photobucket. I'll draw the layout from my actual switcher this weekend.
DeleteBasically what it is, two 3DPT switches, the first switching between loop A and loop B, the second switching between the first switch and loop C. When loop C is engaged you can still switch between loop A and B, but neither will be engaged until loop C is disengaged. By engaged I mean audible. Excuse the crappy English.
Uploading a photographed version of Roger's diagram to my Photobucket now...
Deletethe suspense...
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj138/saintOlav/Guitars%20and%20stuff/ABC%20loop%20switch/20120914_184856.jpg
DeleteOK, so obviously In/Uit are Send/Return. The scribbles are my notes on wire colors. Hope this helps.
btw; this is Roger's diagram which I just remembered I had printed to use as a guide when building this switch. Glad I didn't have to go pick up the actual box from our rehearsal studio, I'm running a five alarm fever.
DeleteGavin, did you check mammoth electronics. I know they're selling looper enclosures now. I used an old enclosure from a midi controller of a Hughes and Kettner switchblade aml that was busted so idk why to get a raw enclosure. Check what Hammond has. I'm sure you can get one from mammoth and place the switches in a zig zag pattern to fit accordingly.
ReplyDeleteThnx!
ReplyDeleteLooks great, thanks man!!
ReplyDeleteSo does this not need any DC? Please excuse a newb...
ReplyDeleteLEDs do need it. And this is intended to be used with a buffer circuit, which needs it too.
Delete+m
so where does it connect?
ReplyDeleteWherever it connects in the buffer you choose to use. If you're not using a buffer then the end of the red supply line.
DeleteI would love to build something similar to the OctaSwitch.. I can't, for the life of me, figure out how they switch between the channels. ie: channel 1 is engaged, and is bypassed when channel 2 is pressed. I love this page, and I think you're doing a great job. Thanks for your time, and knowledge.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI need a circuit to switch two head (A/B/A+B). Is it absolutely necessary the buffer? I dont want to switch pedals. Can I do this with the circuit above?
ReplyDeleteI'll back you pardon for my ignorance and thanks for your great jobs
Paolo
This is probably the easiest way to achieve basic A/B/Y (or A/B/A+B) box:
Deletehttp://www.monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/bestABY.jpg
+m
thanks mirosol! Do you think it's unnecessary a buffer to drive two amps? I mean when A and B are together there is a decay of the signal without a buffer?
Deletethanks again
I have no experience in that.. You could just try it. ABY-box may come handy even if it's not enough for your specific need. To be sure, you could have two buffers - one at each output... I would build something like that if i needed similar setup.
Delete+m
thanks again mirosol, if I try somethings I'll post it
ReplyDeleteHi! Thanks again for all your "terrawonderfic" work.
ReplyDeleteSorry, not good enough in electronics to understand everything about that looper 5.
So looking at buffer :
- black wire, negative, ok
- red wire, +9v, ok
- is green wire "in" ?
- is blue wire "out" Thanks for your answer ;-) Tazidore
Yes the black negative wire connects to ground with all the other points of ground shown. Red is the +9V supply, green is the wire from the input socket, blue is the wire to the output socket, light green is the effect send for each loop, light blue is the effect return for each loop and yellow is the tuner output. The resistors are current limiting resistors for each LED, choose a value that suits you in terms of brightness, I use 2K2 a lot for this. And the buffer board is just representative, you should include your preferred buffer there.
ReplyDeleteHi Ivlark, I have build a simple ABY switcher, I want to put 2 Klon buffer before each out (A and B). it's right or it's enough one buffer at input in order to have no signal loss wen use in Y mode?
DeleteThanks in advance
A single buffer may be ok, but I'd probably err on the side of caution and use the split section of something like this just to make sure.
Deletehttp://thebin.free.fr/schematics/DualSplitterBlend+MiniMixer.gif
Too difficult for me to translate into layout. I'll try first with one klon buffer at imput...I'll tell you if it works
Deletethanks again!!
How easy would it be to make something like this:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9v6M22avoDo (available from here: https://www.wtfaccessories.com/vitoos-vlp8-pedal-switcher-effects-loop-controller.html)
Or this: http://www.joyoaudio.com/en/product/show_185.html
...where there are 32 presets of different combinations, rather than the manual on/off on each channel.
Thanks,
Ian
Hi,
ReplyDeleteA few questions on this:
1) Is the tuner out on all of the time, or only when the tuner mute is pressed? - I can't quite tell from the switch wiring.
2) The tuner mute will stop all signal to the buffer and other loops, right?
3) Is anyone able to show me how I can wire a total bypass switch so the input is connected straight to the to the output?
(i'd like the tuner out to still work - but am undecided on whether the buffer should still be inline - i'm thinking it should, as it can still be toggled with the buffer footswitch - so hitting bypass would bypass everything but leave the tuner and buffer in, hitting tuner mute will still mute, the buffer can still be turned on/off with it's switch, but the other pedals will not do anything (other than toggle the led's of course!) as they are no longer in the signal chain).
4) Is the tuner mute just a DPDT? - is that because it's the end of the chain so there is no output to connect? - just input & led?
Thanks!
Ian
1) Only when tuner/mute is pressed, a momentary stomp would be good here
Delete2) Yep, that's the mute bit. It grounds the signal to the buffer stomp switch.
3) You'd need to take the wire that goes from the buffer to the Loop 1 stomp to a new main bypass stomp, then also take the wire from the Loop 5 stomp to the output socket to the new stomp. Then you can use conventional true bypass wiring to have Loop 1 to Loop 5 in or out of circuit.
4) It's at the beginning of the chain. It's a DPDT because that's all you need to re-route the signal to the tuner and ground the connection to the loops, even with an LED included. True bypassing a circuit like the loop stomps are doing performs more actions and so needs the extra pole.
Thanks for that!
DeleteWould there be a problem in having the tuner permanently connected, so it's always active? - and then having a mute latching pedal to kill the signal?
Would I just wire the tuner out jack in parallel to the input jack, pin for pin?
Presumably as that's before the buffer, it shouldn't affect the signal/tone?
Is it a problem to leave the tuner mute engaged over a long period of time and the signal staying grounded?
Thanks,
Ian
I wouldn't because I think it will degrade the tone but you could try. Personally I'd do it after the buffer not before, but I have a natural aversion to just forking off in two different directions even after a buffer.
DeleteOh and no it isn't a problem having the tuner selected for a long period of time, so you could use it for silencing your guitar between songs. You would obviously be better without the momentary switch though.
DeleteAh, ok - I did wonder whether that would be a problem.
DeleteAny idea how the Tuner Out jacks work on the volume pedals (eg: the Ernie Ball)? - do they just T-off and screw it, or is there a right way to do it?
No idea how they do it unless I see a scheme, but I've heard lots of people complain about the tuner out of volume pedals affecting the tone and so they may well just daisy chain off.
DeleteAhh, ok - quite possibly then!
DeleteIs there much loss in the 3PDT switching? - i.e if you are going through like 20-30 of them?
Will one buffer at the beginning be enough for a big board with all that switching?
It should be because the signal after the buffer will be a very low impedance, but 30 is quite a lot so you may want to include on at the end or somewhere in the middle too. Bear in mind though that as soon as you turn a pedal on, it's own buffered output will again provide a low impedance output for the rest of the chain, so it may not be necessary.
DeleteSorry, another question - i'm thinking of building a 24-way version of this - 2 rows of 12 switches.
ReplyDeleteIs there any problem with cable length / noise / tone? - or will the buffer at the beginning eliminate that?
Do I have to worry about the cable type, or can I use normal wire?
Looking at:
Single Core 1/06mm. Overall diameter is 1.2mm, rated at 1.8A, 1kV.
Stranded Wire 7/0.2mm. 1.2mm, rated at 1.4A, 1kV.
Any preference between single or stranded in terms of quality? - i'm thinking stranded will be easier to build/box as it flexes, but if single core will work better for sound, i'll use that.
Thanks,
Ian
Pretty much any cable will do. They will all have a greater capacity than PCB or vero tracks and so will never be the weakest link in the chain.
DeleteI tend to use 7/0.2 or 16/0.2 depending how tight the offboard wiring is. I even have some 24/0.2 and 32/0.2 but have only really used that for tag or turret builds which are quite nice to do with thicker cable.
Stranded or single core are just as good as each other so it's down to personal preference. I prefer stranded because I think single core can look scruffy unless you really take your time, cut exactly to length and think carefully about where the wires are going to be routed in the box. Some people do all that really well, but it seems like too much trouble to me :o)
I have a question. I built a 5 loop true bypass looper based on this schematic. No tuner out, no buffer. All the loops work, but the output jack is not working. Any ideas why?
ReplyDeleteSo what are all the parts for the schematic, I don't see any listed? Also, which buffer should i use to make this work the best for a general tone?
ReplyDeleteAnd on a side note, What are you using to create these schematic drawings?
The only parts are 3PDT switches, jack sockets, LED's & suitable resistors, power (eg: a 2.1mm dc socket) and wire.
DeleteFor the buffer, there is both a Klon one or a Cornish one elsewhere on the site. I've heard good things about both, so i'm planning to try both and see if there is any difference.
just finished this and my tuner out LED is backwards. The light is on when the signal is not sent to the tuner and the LED is off when the signal is sent to the tuner. any ideas
ReplyDeleteI tried wiring the switch the opposite of the way I had done it (not thinking this would help) and still no luck. I'm assuming this is a simple issue but it is slipping by me.
DeleteYes I obviously did that without thinking about it too much. Disconnect the wire from the resistor which goes to the bottom right hand lug and solder it to the top right hand lug. That completes the LED circuit when Input and Tuner are connected and output grounded.
Deletethis works until I plug my guitar into the input. Then the tuner led stays lit constantly. It's brighter when the tuner is engaged but when it is disengaged the guitar is faint. I'm assuming a grounding issue. I ran the ground from the dc plug to one of the open holes on the cornish buffer. Other than that I followed the diagram.
ReplyDeleteCut the link and see if it works properly. See if you notice any noise when in tuner mode
Deleteit works now but introduces a considerable amount of noise when in tuner mode
DeleteYes that was the potential problem, it leave the output hanging so you get the noise like when you take your guitar lead out. I think to do it properly you need a 3PDT toggle if you want the LED there. I'll update the layout
DeleteUpdated the layout, and added an extra link so it grounds the tuner out when not in use which will stop any noise from that side.
DeleteSo effectively to mute, you put the tip of the input to ground - i.e short the tip and sleeve?
DeleteThat won't damage the amp?
While you are there, is it possible to add an additional total bypass switch to the diagram?
Thanks,
Ian
verified now.
Deleteichilton, mark mentions how to wire in a total bypass a couple post up. Not sure if that helps you but there you go.
If I press the first loop switch and that the second one both loop remain active? when I active a switch exclude the previously activated?
ReplyDeleteHI, My doble loop has a noise when active, (POP)
ReplyDeleteFrom Paul Cochrane Tim: A 510K resistor is also soldered between the tip and shield of the Return socket to act as a pulldown resistor for the output of whatever is in the loop.
ReplyDeletewhat is the orange buffer part? i'm trying to build my own looper but i dont really understand that part of the schematic. regards from Holland, jens
ReplyDeleteIn this layout I included a switchable buffer in the first loop so that if you choose to you know where to include one which can help avoid tone loss due to a run of true bypass switches.
DeleteThe image is representative rather than showing the actual buffer circuit so you can use any buffer you like, such as:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/cornish-buffer.html
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/klon-buffer.html
Is the Tuner Out, an always on that you can mute too? Can you do that if not setup that way currently?
ReplyDeleteCan I expand this to a 12 channel and what would the resistor rating be?
ReplyDeleteYou can expand it to however many channels you want, it's totally modular. And the resistor rating is one that you think is suitable for the LEDs, so it totally depends how bright you want them to be. I usually like something from 2K to 3K3 approx
Deleteawesome, thanks
ReplyDeleteDo you use 3mm or 5mm LED's, or does it matter?
ReplyDeleteIt's cosmetic, so whatever you prefer
DeleteIn some other schematics they jump the lower left and lower center together, and run the left center to ground. What that be because there are running a master bypass switch?
DeleteIt's essentially exactly the same thing because in the off state, the contact of the first pole makes the connection shown between the left middle and left bottom lug. But I did it like this for a reason. By including the link between left bottom and left centre it bypasses completely the left hand contact when in the bypass position and so all three lugs are permanently grounded. That avoids any potential pops that could be introduced when switching to ground. But it also avoids the send tip being grounded via two contacts which in low cost switches have the potential to be less than perfect. With the lug numbering like this:
Delete1---4---7
2---5---8
3---6---9
The way I do it means the send tip is grounded by a single contact between lugs 5 and 6 when the switch is in the off position. Doing it the way you describe means the send tip is grounded via a contact between 5 and 6, then a link between 6 and 3, and then a contact between 3 and 2. There is no reason why all 3 lugs shouldn't be permanently grounded and anything that avoids unnecessary obstacles is always an advantage in my opinion.
If I wanted to eliminate the buffer and put in a master bypass, would wiring another true bypass switch in place of buffer work with wire from pole 2 on tuner out going to pole 5 on master, then pole 4 on tuner going to pole 9 on loop 1, the pole 9 on master going to tip of input jack, pole 7 on master going to pole 8 on last loop and pole 9 on master going to tip on output jack... Would this work?
DeleteNever mind, it works perfect
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHey David, can we have a brief talk about this one you just built? Please let me know where I can find you. Thanks!
DeleteI make this looper with tuner out, but when I press the tuner swith does a POP. How can I remove this pop??
ReplyDeletethanks.
Where I can connect the tuner in???
ReplyDeleteI was wondering how to incorporate a tap tempo port like on the timon klein loopper. I have built this and it works well but I want to put the tap tempo port on it. I really would appreciate any assistance.
ReplyDeleteWhat is the tap tempo for? Strymon?
DeleteThat's a real good request. I guess a separate spst and a regular jack would make the work, don't you think?
DeleteGuitar rig setup question?
ReplyDeleteloop switcher
Any pictures of the ones you guys built? Just to have the schematics as a reference. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteIs there a way to build this with common anode bi color LEDS instead of the regular LEDS so that off status would be one color on would be the other in an uncomplicated manner?
ReplyDeleteI don't plan to use the buffer or tuner out if that makes it any simpler
ReplyDeleteIf the switch is labelled like this...
Delete1-4-7
2-5-8
3-6-9
Remove the ground link between lugs 2 and 3
Add ground wire to Lug 2 and link to lug 6
Cathode A to lug 1
Cathode B to lug 3
Everything else remains the same. 9V to CLR to Anode etc...
Thanks for the tip on this!
ReplyDeleteHi! I am new here, is this diagram updated? I have read in the comments some "problems" with the tuner out, so, I would like to know if i can use this diagram with no problem! Thanks!! :)
ReplyDeletecan I use this type of loop switcher to rune certain effects through my amps FX loop?
ReplyDeleteI have a sinking feeling that if I would disable the loop, the signal between the preamp and power amp would be cut, and I'd get no sound.
I used these schematics a while back and has worked great! I have since then added 4 stereo pedals and wondering if you have schematics for stereo looper? Thanks for your help!
ReplyDeleteStereo is more awkward because you would essentially need a 5PDT stomp to switch both sides simultaneously. Personally if I wanted to switch stereo effects I'd just use a bank of DPDT relays. You don't need a pole for the LED because you can just take the LED feed from the coil.
DeleteSo you'd need 2 x DPDT relays per stereo effect, and use a push on/push off stomp to energise or break the supply to the coils, or if you want to do it properly use a single pole momentary stomp with a relay driver circuit of some description. Like this or similar:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/soft-latch-relay-bypass-daughterboard.html
Is there a reason why we want to make the buffer switchable? How would I wire it up to omit the switch and keep it always on?
ReplyDeleteYou don't have to have it, if you'd prefer not to then just take the blue wire from the tuner mute to the buffer input and take the output of the buffer to pin 9 of the first loop stomp.
DeletePersonally I'd keep the switch just in case you ended up putting an effect in the first loop which didn't like the buffer, but I would put it on a simply toggle rather than a stomp so you're not using up stomp real estate when it isn't necessary.
similarly then... how would you do this without the buffer stomp switch and without the tuner out. I want to build this in two parts. The first will be as you see it here (without the buffer switch), to go into the front end of my amp and the second part to go into the effects loop.
ReplyDeleteHi everyone ! Is there a way to make that when you activate a loop, the other ones bypass ? I'd like to use one loop at a time, but I don't know if it's possible...
ReplyDeleteIve asked this before as i was attempting the same thing, but was told relays would be necessary. Or programmable controlers? Which i know nothing about... anyway, i ended up just buying a gigrig as it does just that, plus is really slim
DeleteWhat would the wiring be if i wanted to keep the bypass switch, but disregard the buffer. Or is the buffer necessary for the tuner out? Thanks for sny help!
ReplyDeleteI meant tunef out, not bypass switch. Id like to keep the tuner out, and take out the buffer
DeleteIf I'm not completely mistaken, the send of each of the loops could be used as a latching external switch like the Boss fs5L for example. Anyone tried this?
ReplyDeleteIf not, I'll confirm later.
In reply to myself, you can use the send as a latching switch, but in the looper it obviously (duh) mutes the signal as the signal is directed to the control input of the other pedal.
DeleteWhat I did realise, is that all pedals wired Mark's way can be used as a latching switch in a bind. The input is grounded in bypass, so there you go!
Built a simple, single loop (no buffer, no tuner). I needed a single fx loop on my board to handle a chain of an EHX POG into an EHX Synth9. Those pedals were adding a ton of noise to my chain, even when not on. Having them in a separate loop has dramatically cleaned up my signal. Here's a demo (running pedal board through a Roland JC-120):
ReplyDeletehttps://www.instagram.com/p/Bltz1mElfWG/
how would you wire this if you didn't want the buffer to be switchable?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteGreetings,
ReplyDeleteI built this as a 3-loop rig - it works, but it seems each loop is additive to the prior one. I will spend some time digging into this, just wondering if anyone else had this same issue...
thanks,
phil
Hello, first thank the excellent work, I built this project and I have the following problem, use 5mm green LEDs with 2.2k resistors but they do not light well, I should change the resistors to another value.
ReplyDeleteI built it with input buffer and 4 loops, that is 5 leds.
Best regards
Yes, lower the value to make the LED brighter, raise it to make it dimmer. For the type of LEDs I commonly used 2K2 is perfect for me, but it's always a matter of personal taste
DeleteI use to buy LEDs from Tayda, and with green LEDS I use resistor not bigger than a 1k, because I noticed they are less bright than other color. I don't know if Tayda's green LED are darker or they are just like this.
DeleteIs it possible to add one switchable output to amps fx loop and how? Hope this makes sense.
ReplyDeleteHey everyone. First of all a big thanks to this community. Total noob here, but I'd like to give this a shot, so bear with me. Here are my questions:
ReplyDeletea.In order to build this without the tuner out do I have to:
1. Connect input ground (black) straight to the buffer board and from there to Loop 1 ground, and to the buffer switch (bottom row middle lug)?
2. Connect input wire from jack (green) to buffer switch (bottom row, right lug)?
3. Do anything else to the buffer switch lugs apart from what is already on there? (like jump any other lugs, no idea just asking)
4. Do anything else?
b. If I use a volume pedal before an effect in one of the loops, will that essentially act as an expression pedal for said effect (when the loop is on, obviously), or will it work like the guitar's volume pot, sending treble to ground when turned back?
In the first case, what kind of volume pot would you suggest for the pedal, a "normal" 500k or, since it will be in a buffered loop, a smaller value one like 50k or 25k?
Many thanks in advance and apologies for the long post.
(I've only dealt with guitar wiring so far and the only pedal I've built is an external tap tempo for my DD-20)
Has anyone built this and found that they needed/never needed the buffer? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteWas wondering if anyone could help with a problem I’m experiencing. I’ve built this with the buffer removed, so just tuner out and 3 loops for effects. Tuner out works as it should and 2 of the 3 loops work. But the one directly after the tuner out doesn’t seem to be working. It mutes the signal also. Thought it was the pedal so tried it in another loop and it worked. Tried changing the switch and same issue. Triple checked my wiring but can’t see anything obvious. Any help would be greatly appreciated
ReplyDeleteWas wondering if anyone could help with a problem I’m experiencing. I’ve built this with the buffer removed, so just tuner out and 3 loops for effects. Tuner out works as it should and 2 of the 3 loops work. But the one directly after the tuner out doesn’t seem to be working. It mutes the signal also. Thought it was the pedal so tried it in another loop and it worked. Tried changing the switch and same issue. Triple checked my wiring but can’t see anything obvious. Any help would be greatly appreciated
ReplyDeleteWas wondering if anyone could help with a problem I’m experiencing. I’ve built this with the buffer removed, so just tuner out and 3 loops for effects. Tuner out works as it should and 2 of the 3 loops work. But the one directly after the tuner out doesn’t seem to be working. It mutes the signal also. Thought it was the pedal so tried it in another loop and it worked. Tried changing the switch and same issue. Triple checked my wiring but can’t see anything obvious. Any help would be greatly appreciated
ReplyDeleteWas wondering if anyone could help with a problem I’m experiencing. I’ve built this with the buffer removed, so just tuner out and 3 loops for effects. Tuner out works as it should and 2 of the 3 loops work. But the one directly after the tuner out doesn’t seem to be working. It mutes the signal also. Thought it was the pedal so tried it in another loop and it worked. Tried changing the switch and same issue. Triple checked my wiring but can’t see anything obvious. Any help would be greatly appreciated
ReplyDeleteHi, just wondering are the pedal loops effectively in parallel?
ReplyDeleteIs there any benefit to putting a buffer on each loop independently (is that what Pete Cornish does on his pedal boards?)
Just wondering are the loops effectively in parallel?
ReplyDeleteI read on Pete Cornish’s site that his pedal boards are built in a way that makes each effect act as though it’s the only one. Does he do this with parallel loops and a separate buffer for each loop?