Wednesday, 8 February 2012

Skreddy Pink Flesh

Here's the layout for another rare Skreddy effect, like the Mayo posted previously.  Info from the builder:

Based on the "triangle-knob" circa 1971 4-transistor fuzz, but I've changed the input capacitor to a more saturated-sounding type like the circa 1973 'rams head' version fuzz.

From there, I've tightened up the bass and smoothed out the highs and eliminated the mid scoop.  So instead of a raging wall of fuzz, you get a more focused and amp-like tone, without having to stack with eq's and/or other overdrive pedals to smooth things out or bring up the midrange.


The Mayo had scooped mids, whereas the Pink Flesh has switchable flat and boosted (juicy) mids.  Using these layouts, the Pink Flesh and Mayo will have more in common with each other if you've used the mids switch shown which will give you a greater variety of mid levels for each pedal.  There is still enough of a difference to make it worth having both though!

Update: Some values have been corrected in the layout below after looking at the values in my original.  If anyone has built this from the previous layout this summarises the changes:
  • 220n cap to Q2 base should be 100n
  • 220n cap from Q2 collector to following stage should be 100n (Tropical Fish)
  • 100n cap from Tone 2 to Q4 base should be 47n (Greenie)
  • 68n output cap should be 100n.

The change in output cap means that a 4PDT switch for Pink Flesh/Mayo modes would now not be required and you could just switch the input caps using a DPDT switch.


Pink Flesh / Mayo switch:



This may not cover all the differences between the Mayo and Pink Flesh because Marc tuned each one by ear to remove fizz and so they could all be almost bespoke, but it'll get you in the right ball park with both and certainly close enough to please most people.  If you do get some fizz, just swap the 470p caps to smooth it out, and/or experiment with different transistors until your happy with both circuits.

Gutshot from my original Pink Flesh:

48 comments:

  1. Built my test box today and this was the first to be tested. It's finished and sounds really good with 2N5088s but i just can't understand why that in/out cap switch doesn't make an audible diference..

    It works and sounds like it should. Measured the 4p switch and there's nothing wrong with it. I guess i should try some very different values for these caps and see if that changes anything.
    +m

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    1. That's surprising, especially considering the differences in the input caps.

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    2. Same thoughts.. Walked the dog and thought that maybe i'll swap that switch for two 2 pole on/on switches. There is always a possibility that 1) a cap, or 2) the switch is faulty. Or burned.

      I'll take this on again tomorrow. I'll let you know..
      +m

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    3. Bear in mind as well that the most obvious difference between the Pink Flesh and Mayo was that the PF had a switch for flat or boosted mids, the Mayo was scooped and then later versions had a switch for scooped or flat mids.

      If you've used my suggested scooped, flat, boosted mids switch then both pedals at least have the potential to be in much closer territory.

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    4. I'm considering that option too. I mean the one, where i ditch that 4P altogether and just leave that perfectly working mids switch to switch between pink and white. Maybe those in/out caps aren't supposed to be that important to the desing and sound.

      One more thing.. I went through some different transistor options. Tried these just for fun and as an experiment:
      2N2222 TO-18 - Not enough gain.
      2N5088 - Good.
      2N5089 - Very good, currently on board..
      2N3904 - Amazing. Lower hfe for more cream, but less gain.
      BC549 - Good, closer to Devi than Skreddy though..
      MPSA13 - Too much. Sounds more like a bit crusher, but works..

      I might even swap those 2N3904s back on for their creaminess. If you have built this and used sockets, i strongly recommend trying 2N3904s for subtle creaminess. Reminds me of Kilkenny in a pint :)

      2N3904s are generally kind of crappy sounding transistors in my opinion. That's why i'm pretty surprised and excited about them fitting so perfectly to this design.

      About the sound in general, i think that this is just classic Skreddy. Basically it's just smoother and creamier big muff. Also not as harsh as BMP. Maybe a bit less sustain, but not gating in any means. Definitely a keeper. (i have painted half pink half white BB box for this.. :))
      +m

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  2. I liked BC550C in this circuit! creamy and soft in the right ways. I'll have to try the 2N3904 trick sometimes that transistor can be surprising in the right places

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  3. http://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/PinkMayo.jpg

    Goddammit. I'm just speechless. Skreddy designs are just about the greatest thing anyone has ever made. Wasn't planning on it before, but now i think i need to buy at least one and build Cognitive Dissonance III and Screwdriver Deluxe... And mayby Pig Mine too...

    This one with 2N3904s is just ... i can't come up with the words. It's just fuzz, but like i've never heard before.

    I was playing with this and then i thought that i try last weekend's "RangeFace", just to compare them... Don't really get it why i hoarded expensive and rare parts to build mediocre fuzz. Well it's classic and it's not bad at all, but why bother?

    +m

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    1. Excellent stuff. I've got an original Pink Flesh with 2N5133 transistors which are just impossible to get now in decent gain ranges, so I'd be really interested in building one myself and seeing how close I can get to it with the more modern transistors.

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    2. I'm so glad you recommended the 2N3904s! I probably wouldn't have tried them otherwise. Subtle creaminess that just puts this design right in perfect territory. Not a crazy huge difference, but just what the circuit calls for.

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    3. Hallo,

      I'm new here and I will built the Pink flesh. so I have a question: What mean the diffrent coulerd capasitors? Please answer. Thank you

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    4. Different types - red ones are in the nanofarad range and are generally polyester film (box type or greenies), and the orange ones are ceramics in the picofarad range.

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  4. I'm building the Pink Flesh for a friend, can you tell me witch capacitors are films? I see four films: a Xicon greenie, a Mullard fish and two Wimas?

    Maybe the 220nf's?

    Thanks!

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    1. It looks like 2 of the 220n's are, but I'll have to open it up later to double check which and to check the greenie and tropical fish. I'll let you know later.

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    2. Hi Mark, any change with the capacitors?

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    3. Apologies, it totally skipped my mind. Just opened it up and it's highlighted a few errors in value. The 2 x 220n box caps are the caps in series with the diodes. The following corrections are needed:

      220n cap to Q2 base should be 100n
      220n cap from Q2 collector to following stage should be 100n (Tropical Fish)
      100n cap from Tone 2 to Q4 base should be 47n (Greenie)
      68n output cap should be 100n.

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    4. Nice! Thank you very much for the corrections, you are the master!

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  5. Done! sounds great! photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/77206179@N02/sets/72157631102820628/

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  6. If I wanted to use a 4DPT footswitch for the Pink Flesh/Mayo switch, would it be possible to wire two LEDs to indicate which side the switch is on?

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    Replies
    1. Or is it really not different enough to justify the footswitch?

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    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  7. Any suggested replacement for the 1n5817?

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    1. That is used for polarity protection, so it's not crucial to use at all. So taking the 9V wire 2 rows lower and omitting the diode works too. But if you want it (it's not a bad thing to have), you could basically use any diode in its place. Basically any, but shotcky barrier would the best best. Try 1N4001, BAT41 or 1N4002. 1N4007 will work too.
      +m

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  8. Strange problem. When I put it on my test rig, it worked perfectly (although at that point I hadn't wired in the boost/flat/scooped switch yet. I clipped the SW1 and Tone 3 leads together for the test).

    When I soldered in the switch, the tone knob now acts strangely. First off, the signal is very muffled, like all the highs are stripped off. As I roll the tone knob up to try to bring the highs back in, the volume decreases. Also, the switch doesn't make any difference in the sound in any of the three positions.

    I took the switch out and clipped the SW1 and Tone 3 back together and it works as it should. The highs are back and the tone knob functions as it should.

    I thought for sure I had wired the tone knob incorrectly but I've looked it over about a dozen times and all the wiring is correct.

    Just to be clear, there is a wire from the board to tone 3 and another wire coming from the switch to tone 3, correct?

    As I said, strange.

    ReplyDelete
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    1. Sw1 and Tone 3 should not be together in any case. That 3-way switch breaks the connection in middle position, up, it adds 10n to the tone circuitry, down it adds 4n7.

      Try omitting the switch and not connecting the tone 3 and switch wire. I strongly believe you have something wrong around Q3. That would explain it.

      You are correct about the wires..
      +m

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    2. Thanks miro.

      When SW1 and Tone 3 are separated it exhibits the behaviour of the highs rolled off and the tone knob cutting volume as it's turned clockwise.

      I'm going to go over the board for misplaced components, incorrect values, bridges, etc.

      Thanks for the quick reply!

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    3. Whelp, turns out it was a microscopic bridge I could only see with a loupe. Got rid of it and we have a doomsday machine. Sounds great with both 2n3904s and 2n5089s. Super circuit.

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    4. Good to hear you got it sorted.
      +m

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  9. Put it in a gold vein enclosure from Pedal Parts Plus. My Skreddy collection is growing...left to right in the last picture: Lunar Module Deluxe, Screwdriver Deluxe, Pink Flesh with scooped/flat/boost switch.

    http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_5667.jpg

    http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_5668.jpg

    http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_5669.jpg

    http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_5670.jpg

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    1. Excellent looking collection there Jason, nice jobs, and thanks for the pics.

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    2. Thanks IvIark. Couldn't have done it without you!

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  10. Thanks for this layout and info. Could you possibly post the schematic as well?

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    1. There isn't one. I did it based on the Mayo schematic on FSB and Marc Ahlf's description of the differences between the two in the FSB Pink Flesh thread.

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  11. for the toggle switch is it on--on-on - on-none-on or on-off-on
    I always get mixed up with those 3 way DPDT toggles

    thanks!

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    1. Thanks IvIark!
      I will post a pic of my completed pedal, soon as I get my toggle.

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    2. Here is the final build. I just need a greenie cap and I have silver aluminum knobs coming - pedal sounds awesome with the 2N3904s but I may play with different transistors - But overall I love this pedal
      http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/jimijam_photos/PF1.jpg~original
      http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/jimijam_photos/PF2.jpg~original

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  12. sooo.... the switch that gives you the different output caps between the mayo and pink flesh shows that the pink flesh has a 68n output cap (which the mayo has a 100n) but the actual layout for the pink flesh shows a 100n output cap. whats the word? or am i screwing up how a 4pdt works?

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  13. Got this built tonight. 1st "muff" that I have up and running that I would actually gig with. Just sounds fantastic. Used 5088's.

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  14. Hi , Can some one tell me , does Tone 3 on the Vero board go straight to the Tone 3 lug on the switch . I see this often and get a little confused .

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    1. Hi , bit confused please help , On tone 3 do I run a wire straight to tone 3 marked on the switch lug with out going to a pot! sorry still learning

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    2. a wire should run from tone 3 on the board to lug 3 of the tone pot, and a wire from lug 3 of the tone pot to the lug of the switch marked tone 3.

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  15. Hi Zach , when I have come to this on other builds it stops me from carrying on . Thanks again.

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    1. No worries man, always happy to help. Remember that when you see the same place written for a wire in multiple places that they will all need to be connected. The way I told you I'd how I would run it, as I think it's the easiest and neatest.

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    2. Hi Zach , Sorry need a bit more help with this one . Do I run a line from the volume 2 lug straight to output lug on foot switch or can connect to output jack .

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    3. footswitch. look at the offboard wiring and you'll see that the output wire from the board goes to the footswitch and a wire from the output jack to the footswitch as well.

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  16. Hi , The three way switch needed , will that be a DPDT three way on,on,on, switch .

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  17. Nice fun build here. I used an On/Off/On switch, and it sounds like its working correctly. Quite a useful switch I recommend using the 3 way one as IvIark suggested instead of the original 2 way.

    Per Mirosol's suggestions I tried the 2N5088 and the 2N3904, didn't have any 2N5089s to test. Both sounded great. Currently I have some high 800s hfe (according to my cheap meter) MSPA18s in mine that I quite like. I still have many more to test, but its hard to not just play it as is instead of swapping parts around. Speaking of, I used 3 pin 2.54mm spacing pin headers as sockets for my transistors. I had previously tried the big 40 pin strip of SIP socket from Tayda, but I wasn't getting reliable connections. The pin headers seem to be working great so far.

    I put mine in a 125B very easily even with my favorite form over function format. Album here: https://imgur.com/a/WaPb4 Thanks for the layout IvIark.

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