Tuesday, 14 February 2012

Mad Professor Deep Blue Delay


Slightly modified to give you an overall volume control but if you want the standard unit, just swap the 5K1 Volume 1 resistor for a 12K and solder between IC1 pins 6 and 7.  Again it's small enough to fit in a 1590B with some careful measuring.

Updated: Delay 1 connects to the PT2399 pin 4, not to ground as shown on the original layout.  The connection on the board is Mix 3, with Mix 1 going to ground.

Update 2: Now verified. Note the double link at pin 3 of the PT2399 to pin 4.  Both pins need grounding.

Bjorn's spiel:

Deep Blue Delay (DBD) is a natural sounding digital/analog delay, with analog direct signal path. The DBD has about the same bandwidth as the classic tape echo units, and it can be used in front of an amplifier or in amplifier effects loops.

There are no noise reduction circuits, which keeps decay of echo as natural as possible.

The direct signal path is short and made with analog amplifiers with no filtering.

There should be no distortion or tone coloration as long as input level is in range below maximum allowed.

The echo signal has a tuned filtering to allow extreme settings without interference.

The delay is specially designed to work well with distorted tone, as this is the most critical application, where delays often fail.

You can use the pedal before or after distortion. As such, it will work exceptionally well on clean sounds where requirements are less stringent, especially in terms of echo bandwidth and repeat formation.

The delay tone has been carefully tuned with lot of attention to the first critical reflection and how the repeats decay.




And the original version




And a requested version with tails.  With this version the usual stomp switch wiring isn't used, and instead the input and output wires go directly to the sockets.  The stomp here will cut the signal going into the PT2399 and so when bypassed the output of the PT2399 will continue until the repeats are complete and IC1 will then act as a buffered bypass.  It may be a good idea to swap the 12K resistor at pin 7 of IC1 for a 20K trimmer so that the buffered bypass level can be tweaked to perfect unity with your bypassed signal.  As another alternative you could add a second stomp to true bypass the whole thing if you prefer, giving you an option of mechanically bypassing as usual, or bypassing with tails when you need to.





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210 comments:

  1. Finished today. Really goodsounding!

    Thank you very meny!

    - Timppa

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  2. I just wanted to add some potentially helpful info to anyone building the DBD. I've built 2 of these circuits.. one of them was with the cheap caps from tayda and the other with more expensive caps including silver mica caps. the tayda circuit came out very noisy. It took 4 different pt2399's to get the noise/hiss down to an acceptable level. The other DBD came out perfect the first time... zero noise/hiss. I even tried swapping the pt2399 to find a noisier one and they all sounded good.. so I gather that the circuit is just very sensitive to having good quality parts/caps in it. (both circuits had xicon metal film resistors throughout and pt2399's from tayda)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for the info. Who said caps don't make an audible difference eh?! :o)

      Delete
  3. I just got done building one of these and it's SO GREAT!

    Thanks for the layout!

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  4. Built two of these today, borth worked straight away. Used the OP275, got them from musikding fairly cheap. Had to use 2x180k for that 360k resistor, doh! Heres some photos of the boards for your collection Mark:
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/deepbluedelay_front.JPG
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/deepbluedelay_back.JPG
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/deepbluedelay_x2.JPG
    And damn this sounds gooood! Thanks for the layout mate!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Excellent job, cheers for the pics Jimmie

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    2. Forgot about the Delay pot, sorted that afterwards with the increasing and turning.
      When i watch the pics i see that it's a mystery it's no short on the back. Hidious solderwork haha. my iron tip is getting really bad, need to change that, maybe it's time to invest in a proper solderstation. Hate those multilayer caps that have 3-pin spacing instead of two, had to bend them a bit. Currently working on the Belton reverb, couldnt stop working even tho time is almost 3am here haha.

      Delete
    3. Yes I know exactly what you mean about those caps. I bought quite a few of them, and although some do have the desired 2.5mm pitch, there are plenty that are 5mm. Don't they realise we have poly caps for 5mm pitches?! I'm extra careful now, and you can find them in 2.5mm if you shop around.

      Delete
  5. so here's my build of this! left vero is the deep blue. this thing was crazy tight to box but i made it at last haha.
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/inside.jpg
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/front.jpg
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/front_2.jpg

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  6. I've read about the ability to put an effects loop send and return so that the effect in the loop only affects the delay's repeats... anyone got any idea how to implement this?

    if you'd like to have darker repeats you can change the 15n capacitor on the bottom two rows with higher values- I like the original repeats flavor some, but i'm definitely a fan of the darker sounding stuff... using a 33n doesnt make it much darker- i put 3 values on a dpdt with the 15n in the middle so that the outside lugs caps are added to the 15n... really putting a slightly higher value there reduces noise quite a bit at higher delay times! very good sounds in all three positions- extremely useful mod!

    now if I could put tap tempo and an effects loop this would be ballin outta control!

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  7. I just built one of these (have built one before- and wanted another actually) but I'm having major problems with this one. I try not to ask for help on here, but I'm thinking it could be a batch of bad pt2399's from tayda. I am getting no delay signal at all, i just get this nasty distortion sound thats like something is getting overloaded. I've gone over my layout like 20 times and tested as much as possible. would this be a symptom of bad pt2399's or maybe bad 78l05's?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Voltage at the 5V out of 78L05 would be my first thing to check. PT2399 won't work right at all if the voltage from the regulator is something else and not exactly 5V.

      Your symptoms remind me of the trouble i had with Little Angel and the regulator. Once the regulator burned, the sound came through heavily boosted and muddy. Once i swapped the 78L05 for 7805A it tamed down. 7805A is the same regulator, but can handle current up to 1A. So if you have microscopic short after the regulator, it's sure to burn with higher than 100mA current drawn by that short..

      Measure the voltage and swap the regulator to begin with...
      +m

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  8. Yeh I'm getting like 8.9v out of every one of my 78l05's... I've tried knifing the traces.. replacing resistors... everything... just weird cuz i've already successfully built this circuit.

    i looked at the midfi clarinot layout and noticed taht there is a 1n4001 diode between the 9v and the input of the 78l05... would replacing the resistor there with a diode possibly cure my ailments? i'm waiting on 7805's but am growing impatient!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If you're getting 8,9V out of every 78L05, then they are all already broken. PT2399 doens't work with anything else than 5V, so you must have had a short before the kinfe, and that could have burned all your regulators.

      I think 1N4001 or 1N5817 as polarity protection soldered in the middle of the 9V wire (marked end towards the circuit) is not a bad idea to give some extra protection, but that won't fix your broken regulators.
      +m

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  9. I'm having trouble with the repeats. The first is as loud as it should be, but the remaining repeats' volume are really low. Any ideas?

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  10. Verified!

    The Mix is still loud at Minimum

    Sound Fantastic and self-occilatory!!

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  11. Any decent subs for the AD712/OP275? Can't seem to find them anywhere as cheap as i'd like.

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    Replies
    1. Should work with any dual opamp. AD712 and OP275 are high end audio amplifiers, so they are a bit pricier than your average ICs. But do they sound better than TL072? Some seem to think so - Some may even swear that it is so.

      You could try NE5532, LM8333, LF442 or LF353. Those are usually good in any circut, so i don't see any reason why they shouldn't sound good here..

      Other cheap subs would be TL072, TL082, TL062, TLC2272, TLC2262, JRC4558 and so on.
      +m

      Delete
  12. Just finished the circuit, and, yeahhh, works like a dream!

    A few notes:

    - Used the NE5532. Great, first build using this and couldn't be more happy with it.

    - After building the DrBoogie with Mylar caps, and gettin' an absolute noise free pedal, i decided to use these too on de DBD. Works great with no noise at all.

    - First PT2399 used: No problem at all related to noise or strange behaviour. Purchased 5 ones in Tayda just in case, and now I have 4 resting at the bag.

    Don't really needed a delay, I use the EHX #1Echo, but hell, the DBD is really a great delay, will give it a chance with no problem.

    When I finish the box, I'll post some pics. Will use a 125B.

    BR

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  13. Pedal finished and working fineeee. Pics for your collection:

    http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/9708/dbdking.jpg

    http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/4420/dbdguts.jpg

    Hope you like'em :)

    Best regards

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    Replies
    1. Excellent stuff. They look familiar! :o)

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    2. This is a real family :P

      http://imageshack.us/a/img59/9309/capincfam3.jpg

      Next Station: Wampler Triple Wreck :)

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    3. By the way, you're the absolut winner, 9 of these 15 pedals have your designed veros and the triple wreck will do so too, so 10-6, the winner issss Markkk! :P

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  14. Just another note.

    As I was in need of some urgent 2N5457, (I destroyed the Cmatmods Tremoglo one) had to go to Conectrol, one of the biggest component stores in Madrid downtown as they were not available at my local store.

    Besides the 2N5457 (great price, 11 cents/ unit)and some BC182-L that I will need for the Meathead (4 cents each) asked if they had the AD712 in stock.

    It was available and not very expensive, 4,25 euro/ unit so I purchased one to try it in the Deep Blue Delay. I was curious about installing a HiFi ic on an effect's pedal.

    Well, after tryin' the unit for more than an hour.... I can hear no difference with the NE5532. Let's say, the AD712 works fine, is a great ic but I think that there's no need at all to install an opamp of this price and quality in the DBD, Really you can't hear any difference.

    So my advice is: If you want to use the AD712, feel free to do it so, but with the NE5532 you'll get the same spound and you'll get 20 for the price of just one AD.

    BR

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    Replies
    1. I've never noticed much if any difference with opamp swaps with any pedal that stays clean, to the point where I wouldn't even bother experimenting with them now. In dirt pedals it's a different matter altogether because the opamp characteristics have an impact on how the effect distorts, but no I'd be more than happy to stick with the NE5532 in a delay pedal too and not use anything more expensive with no obvious benefit.

      Delete
  15. I finished this tonight, waited 2 weeks for my PT2399s to come from Tayda with fingers itching to get it done. It worked first time and sounds great, i subbed an NE5532 for the OP275 as suggested above and an L7805CV (that was giving spot on 5v) for the 78L05 (coz i couldn't wait any longer for the L05s). I'll get it boxed at some point this week.

    Thanks for posting this one Mark, much appreciated.

    James

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    Replies
    1. You'll love it for sure. It's really one of the nicest delays I've ever tried. Did you hear any noticeable differences between the NE5532 and the OP275? I've swapped many times the NE5532 and the AD712 with different guitars, amps and effects and still can't find any difference.

      Delete
    2. Hi JaviCAP

      I didn't have an OP275 to try but i'm so happy with the way it sounds as is i'll stick with it.

      Delete
  16. Is there an opamp other than the two suggested that would work in the DBD, or are they the only two?

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    Replies
    1. Mark, any low distortion dual op amp will work. I used a burr brown and it sounds great!

      Delete
  17. Thanks, Mike, do you have a part number so I can order from Tayda, or in worst case, Maplins?

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  18. Is it poss to reduce a 100 k lin pot to 50 k? I have three doing nothing and it would save me having to buy them.

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    Replies
    1. I checked on google, apparently, two 50k between lugs 1-2-3 should do the trick. But I'd like you guys to verify that, you know what you're talking about.

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    2. You got it correct. There is just easier way to achieve that. Just solder one 100K resistor between lugs one and three. That makes it 50K pot.

      The idea is that you basically have two resistors in parallel. If they are the same value, then they halve the value of one.

      You could also source 50K pots, as they are very common value :)
      +m

      Delete
  19. Don't forget that if you do the 100k resitor with a line pot, it will become a log pot.

    BR

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  20. Thanks, Miro and Javi, your knowledge is invaluable.

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  21. Just to be absolutely sure (as the Big Muff circuit worked perfectly, but transistors can be flipped to the other side of the board without changing connections): If I mount the components on the opposite side of the perfboard, the actual perfboard circuit side would be mirrored, right? Otherwise the IC pins won't match up to the correct positions (...right?).

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  22. I'm lovin this one, a big pat on the back for you Mark.

    http://ubuntuone.com/1Oj9v12C7B9BtCKfKOkJwE

    Thanks
    James

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  23. think i posted my combined build with a belton brick reverb and this delay in a 1590BB before, heres a stripepd down version with the delay only in a 1590B, it's actually really tight inside but no big worries really. layed down all the electrolytics on the board.
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/deceiving_delay.jpg

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    Replies
    1. Nice job, I saw this yesterday on FB :o)

      Delete
  24. Wow, I've just spent the last hour playing with this after finishing it and in case you didn't hear me the first time - WOW! I built this based on the recommendations of a few people and it has not disappointed, it's everything I was looking for from a delay. If you're wondering whether you should try it then stop thinking about it and pick up the soldering iron.

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    Replies
    1. I totally agree on that, it´s a great delay! And it works perfect for an acoustic guitar as well. It´s in my rig for both the electric and the acoustic right now and together with the compulator in my acoustic rig it´s just a perfect match. I think I have to build another one so I don´t have to take it between my pedal cases.

      Delete
  25. Just built this, like the others have mentioned.. WOW

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  26. Thanx Mark, finally It's just finish.Four month ago I abandon this after fail for my 2nd attempt. Then start again, and finally i found my mistake. I just miss-reading your layout, I thought that row 6 (coloum 1-6)"is ground", not "toward ground" (usually in layout, ground label means it is grund), so I put -9v and -input to this hole (newbie stupidity). The result is noisy distortion sound and the regulator voltage around 8.6. Then I saw other vero schematic where there is a jumper from regulator ground to OP275 pin 4. So I make a jumper from row 6 coloum 1 to the lowest row, and DONE...CLEAN and COOL SOUND. Thx Thx Thx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes there are a few layouts that need 2 ground connections on here to save a column of width, although I have been going through some of them like the muffs to put the link in. I think I will modify this one too because it will still only be 18 columns wide and so easily fit in a 1590B.

      Delete
  27. Just built this and it works beautifully!! Thank you thank you for all the great layouts. I'm so excited to have built my first delay!

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  28. Hi,
    I have finished it and it sounds ok, but i have a little problem. When the volume is on zero there is also sound.
    Is it normal?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes that is as it should be. If you want to go down to nothing then it would need to be slightly modded, but I didn't think it necessary because that would take you entire signal path below unity which I can't imagine anyone doing.

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  29. Thanks for fast replaying. I look into the scheme. There is no sound thru volume pot ,but it still remains
    sound from OP275. That means volume pot only adds or removes additional sound.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No, the volume pot acts as a simple variable resistor in the feedback loop of the last opamp. If you wanted a conventional volume control you'd remove the pot as shown in the layout and the 5K1 resistor attached to Vol 1. Add a 12K resistor between pins 6 and 7 of the top opamp, change the Volume pot to 100K log, take the output wire from the board to Volume 3, Volume 1 to ground, and Volume 2 is then the new output to the stomp switch.

      Delete
  30. Hi,made this one and it worked first pop !Read all the comments about noise and hiss so used all poly caps and its quiet as a mouse.Thanks, nice Delay...elay...lay..ay. ay..

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  31. Finished two of these today. Hopefully i get to keep one :)
    http://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/DBD3.jpg
    http://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/DBD4.jpg
    +m

    ReplyDelete
    Replies

    1. You really do like your knobs transparent... :)

      That's great... myself, right now I'm trying to match the leds to the knob color, I guess I'm gonna need to start experimenting with rgb leds.

      Delete
    2. I got a fair batch of those. They do seem to look good on everything. I might just get couple hundred more :P
      +m

      Delete
  32. Started up on the first try. Stoked :)

    https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/149220_10151546061384617_1054973904_n.jpg

    Now to box it. Blue pot caps, unfinished box and a pink led incoming.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Mark. And thanks a lot for all you do. You've opened up a brave new world for me.

      Boxed:

      https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/39282_10151546366209617_1657258257_n.jpg

      Delete
  33. My DBD is working beautifully, but ab:ing withe the original I found out that the max delay time is shorter in mine. Can this be adjusted changing some components or the pot?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Increasing the value of the pot should make it longer but also when you get to longer delay times, it just gets dirtier.

      I'm interested in knowing if you can hear any difference between the noisiness of the delay trails of the clone and the original one? I mean, there shouldn't. Just check!

      Delete
    2. Thanks, I think I'll try a 100k. I wasn't able to hear any difference in the sound at all, but I ain't excactly equipped with golden ears.

      Delete
    3. Thank you. And that it did. A 100k lin pot gets you to crazy range... But most of it is useful before getting very dirty. And dirty might be useful, too. I Think I'll with the 100k for now, and maybe do the resistor mod to approximate 75k or so later.

      Delete
    4. Seems my earlier replies have vanished? I couldn't find any difference between the original and the clone, perfect.

      With the 100k delay pot you can get some crazy long delay times, but very dirty too, as Geiri mentions. I'm going to try some different resistors parallel to the pot to fine tune the delay time. A 100k pot with a 330k resistor is close, but still able to reach very long delay times.

      Delete
    5. Yup. 200 comment bug is back again...
      +m

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    6. What would be a pot value for the MIX if I wanted to reduce it even more? In a band situation, the effect level (not volume) is too pronounced for me, even when the mix pot is turned all the way to the left.

      Delete
  34. Completed!! Sounds fantastic!!

    ReplyDelete
  35. Hi Guys

    If i wanted to put 2 of these side by side in 1 enclosure is it possible to do it with a single volume control ?

    If so how would the volume be wired ?

    Thanks
    James

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    Replies
    1. I'd do it with a dual-gang (stereo) pot. Just wire it like two separate pots.
      I'm not sure who carries stereo B25k pots, though...

      Delete
    2. Here...

      http://www.retroamplis.com/epages/62070367.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62070367/Products/%22POT-16MM/PCB-ST%22/SubProducts/%22POT-16MM/PCB-ST-B25K%22

      Delete
    3. Be lucky! Hector from Retroamplis is a nice guy and he's a really pedal effect's expert.

      Sadly, prices and shippin are plain expensive even living in Spain. His stuff uses to be high quality and tested, but quality and selection carry a high price too. Reminds me a lot of Small Bear, spanish version :P

      BR

      BR

      Delete
    4. Thanks for that Goran, much appreciated.

      Delete
  36. Hi - Could a switch be added to this to provide Square Wave or Triangle wave similar to the memory boy? http://www.ehx.com/assets/png640h/memory-boy1.png

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sine and square are modulation shapes, this is just a delay effect without a modulation to be changed... I'm guessing you'd need an LFO to do the modulation.

      Delete
  37. What would be a pot value for the MIX if I wanted to reduce it even more? In a band situation, the effect level (not volume) is too pronounced for me, even when the mix pot is turned all the way to the left.

    ReplyDelete
  38. Thanks for posting this. I made a version of this with the taptation daughterboard included in the same pedal. Works great. I kept the original pedal the same with the delay pot and used the volume pot that's in the vero board layout. I wired up with the taptation board with a dpdt switch so you can switch between the pot and the daughterboard. It's one hell of a pedal and it looks like a science experiment. Here's a picture of it: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ALp4U87H-1M/Ub1AedX_99I/AAAAAAAAAIE/peFc8bPtAME/w737-h553-no/CIMG0413.JPG

    It needs some decorating, but that will come in time. Thanks again. This site is a huge help for me and I love the vero board layouts.

    ReplyDelete
  39. Now it dont have distorsion is very clean but tone have many bass have not treble with resitor 12k or other value. Whitout 12k tone is normal but the signal guitar have many distorsion.

    ReplyDelete
  40. Would it be difficult to add a tone knob for the delays? Or a switch between the default and a "darker" value? This would be my second build.

    Great site by the way! /J

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. For future builders:
      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/bmp-tonestack-w-lpb1.html

      (Thanks guys!)

      Delete
  41. Is there any way of making the LED blink together with the tempo? any ideas?

    ReplyDelete
  42. just built this one late last night. it fired up and is perfect on the first try. Love it!( and mine's not noisy either).
    pic of my vero board below. just need to mount it in an enclosure now.

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/DeepBlueDelay/DBD-03.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  43. BTW, mine would just barely self oscillate with the repeats control fully clockwise, so I replaced the(only)2K resistor that connects from repeat 2 to Mix 3 with a 1K resistor and it oscillates ALOT better now

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nice work! Your boards are like perfect examples of how to build them neat!

      I boxed one of these circuits with echobender today, plus effect order switch. Doable, but extremely painful for a BB box. It's for a friend. First time for a long time i wanted to keep something that i built for someone else. Well. Guess i need to build another.. :)
      +m

      Delete
  44. Done!

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/others/DBD-01.jpg

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/others/DBD-02.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  45. having some issue with my build. for some reason it doesnt add any delay. However when i plug in to the pedal the "pop" sound does get a delayed signal. I' ve checked pin one and it sits right at 4.96 pin 3 and 4 are grounded fine and voltage is zero, any ideas?

    ReplyDelete
  46. works PERFECTLY

    just...not very different from an artec delay. And also still has that typical, high time hissy repeat at 500ms +, like the artec

    But it is very noise free, as far as I can tell. Worked right away with no issues. Great stuff!

    ReplyDelete
  47. The only thing that i noticed is that a kind of a low low motorboat sound can be heard, ONLY using it in the fx loop.

    Btw people, THIS particular version can be used as a boost pedal!!! Turn the mix down all the way, and everything except the volume. Voilla! You have a great boost pedal! I put an opa2134

    ReplyDelete
  48. Finished. it sounds darn good!

    http://weplaymusic.co.kr/103

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    Replies
    1. Very classy looking build!

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    2. Fine! Love these highly polished enclosures!

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    3. Nice!
      I need to get back to etching my enclosures, these are really neat!

      I also like how some are upside down, nice touch!

      Delete
    4. Thanks for the kind words.

      Delete
  49. After about 5 different rounds of troubleshooting I finally have this working! I can confirm that this is an absolutely incredible sounding delay, I love it! I decided to put the added volume control on an internal trim pot to save myself a buck and to simplify the controls (set at unity and forget).

    Oh, and I can also confirm that under NO circumstance will this effect work at all if you put a 0.47u cap between pins 2 and 3 of the PT2399 instead of a 47u. Damn electros back to back hid that "0," portion of the label from me!

    ReplyDelete
  50. Hi,

    I seems I can't get mine to work...I have tried multiple ic's even ones that actually work in other circuits but no luck...

    I have put trimmer on 33R to get exactly 5.07v on pin 1 but no delay...all I get is that motorboat sound on maximum turn of pots...also with probe I get motorboat sound...did't any of you solved this?

    ReplyDelete
  51. Anybody know how to add the tails switching?
    Thanks in advance.

    ReplyDelete
  52. My DBD with Taptation works perfectly with a minor issue:

    I could hear the clock tick (synced with delay time setting) when the pedal is off. But when the pedal is engaged, the tick becomes faint but it's still there.

    The funny thing is, this tick disappears completely when any pedal in the chain is engaged. The tick also disappears when I put the DBD in the effects loop of my amp.

    I've already cancelled out LED as a cause of this issue by testing it without any LED's.

    Is this some sort of a ground loop issue?

    ReplyDelete
  53. Just finished this build, sounds great! Was wondering if there was any way to add the LED to the board so that the LED will flash/blink in time with the effect?

    ReplyDelete
  54. finished and worked fine till i putted all in to the enclosure. Now i get a really strong hum when delay is off, when i turn it on, the hum slightly recudes. Where could be the problem?

    ReplyDelete
  55. Guys, is there a way to make the status led flash in the frequency that is set with the Repeat pot? Thanks! (And sorry if it has been answered already, I ran through the comments, but couldn't see the answer...)

    ReplyDelete
  56. Seems my comment is gone... Anyway: does any one have a clue how a blinking led could be added? I mean a led could blink giving a feedback about he delay setting. Tap tempo would be an even better option, but the Taptation IC is a bit pricey... Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  57. Hi Ivlark,
    I checked the voltage at pin 1 : 4,85v
    When i turn full the mix knob i have a giant mix of noise and oscillation and i have noise when the pedal is on.
    Thanks for the help
    Georges

    ReplyDelete
  58. Hi guys I'm quite new and I have some problems with this delay, I built up the board and it looks ok, but I'm getting out a big amount of noise and nearly no signal, you can here the delay though on the very background, so I guess I have some ground problems.
    I'm also a bit confused about the wiring of the pots, after reading all this I got even more confused.

    Updated: Delay 1 connects to the PT2399 pin 4, not to ground as shown on the original layout. The connection on the board is Mix 3, with Mix 1 going to ground.

    Update 2: Now verified. Note the double link at pin 3 of the PT2399 to pin 4. Both pins need grounding.

    so Mix doesn't exist on the layout so I don't understand where it would be, delay 2&3 no idea too, the delay 1 has been solder to the pin 4 of the PT2399. Mix 2, Mix3 on ground?

    I don't understand anything anymore

    ReplyDelete
  59. Hey,
    I'm having trouble with this build.

    After assembling everything in the box, i connected to the power supply to see if it was working. After a few seconds the 33r resistor (that has been replaced for a 10r) burned completly. After that i replaced that resistor with one of 80r, and it did not happened again (altough it gets really hot).

    I don't know if the 33r is really essential, because i can't manage to get the correct voltages on the regulator. With my multimeter I tracked the voltages beggining from the power supply. When i check the resistor on the side of the 9v in it measures 8.88V. Right after the resistor it measures 1v.

    What could be the problem? Any hints?

    ReplyDelete
  60. hi guys.
    has anyone found a solution for this "motorboating" sound? (sounds to me like a idling scooter)

    I've have tried several 2399 but it all sounds the same...

    Gunni

    ReplyDelete
  61. Hey guys - I am sorry to post here looking for help, but I am struggling. I have built 2 DBD's before and they work beautifully. I have built 4 others, and I can't get any to work. I get a clean signal, and no repeats. I have a single L7805 and a whole lot of L78L05's from Tayda. I checked the voltage to pin 1 of the PT2399, and they all seem to read around 18v for a bunch of L8L05 and 14.1 for the 78L05. So clearly there's a problem there. I checked all values, reflowed, checked for soldering bridges. Any ideas?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If you're not getting pretty much bang on 5V at pin 1 then the regulator isn't working correctly. Use a socket there and try a new regulator

      Delete
  62. Thanks, Mark. I have it socketed and tried 5-6 different ones. I'll give it another go and let you know with more of them. It's just strange that I as consistently getting a 14v reading with different L78L05's. It's possible I fried my one 78L05 since I flipped the pin out around to make it work.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Have you tried a new PT2399 in case it was damaged?

      Delete
  63. Finished this a few days ago with a few minor component subs...sounds pretty good :)
    One thing is it seemed to eat through a new battery even when bypassed (battery went dead overnight) - anyone else had that problem with any builds? Haven't tried another battery to see yet, just powering from adapter :)

    Thanks for the layout!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This is a digital effect, and as Travis says, when bypassed the pedal is still drawing power, so its not surprising that batteries arent lasting long. It's exactly why I only ever run pedals from an adapter, batteries are just a money pit and environmental toxin.
      Cheers
      Dave

      Delete
  64. When you bypass a pedal, you aren't powering it down, you are only removing the circuit from your audio signal. As long as its plugged in it will remain active whether its bypassed or not.

    ReplyDelete
  65. Thanks, when I think about it that's obvious! Using an adapter now so don't need to worry, think future builds may not incorporate a battery.... :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hurrah! A convert, you'll never go back my friend.

      Delete
  66. Hmmz. I looked at the madbean layout (found here http://revolutiondeux.blogspot.nl/2012/01/mad-professor-deep-blue-delay.html) and noticed some differences.

    1. As others have stated I miss the 1N4001 between Input an gnd. I just added it in column 1 lane 9 and 10.
    2. In the madbean schematic pins 3 and 4 of the PT2399 are not connected but here they are. As pin 4 is DGND I suppose the madbean layout has a small error?? As such in the madbean schematic Delay 1 is only connected to pin 4 and not gnd nor pin 3.
    3. There is a 100k resistor on the output and gnd (after the 1k R6) that isn't in the madbean schematic. What is it used for?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 1) I always omit parallel polarity protection diodes because under reverse polarity they will at the very least burn out, and possibly explode taking parts of the board with it. If I include any polarity protection now it is always in series with the supply, but it does give you a slight voltage drop and so I usually omit it altogether unless the original pedal used a series diode. Parallel protection without a fuse is daft IMO.

      2) There was a mistake in the original schematic after tracing which may have been what Brian did his layout from. Some people experienced lockup of the PT2399 until I corrected my layout, and it is definitely grounded in the original, someone posted a pic of the reverse of the IC area of the PCB where you could clearly see that both pins 3 and 4 were grounded

      http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=713&start=100#p171137

      3) That's just a pulldown resistor at the output which has been added to stop the effect popping when switching on and off. It may not have been in the original, I did the layout from a modded scheme which added the master volume control.

      Delete
  67. Thanx so much for the reply!!! You are (offcourse) right about the 1N4001. I will also omit it and stick to your layout.

    ReplyDelete
  68. So I built this guy. Sounds really great. The ONLY issue is that I can only get about 4-5 repeats out of it when REPEAT are all the way up.. I tried increasing the REPEAT pot, and lowering the 2k resistor, and swapping different PT2399. No improvement.

    Any ideas? I've been staring at this thing for a few days now and can't seem to track down the problem.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh yeah, I used a TL072 for IC1.

      Delete
  69. I really want to build the standard version without volume pots. Then I just need to remove the 5k1 resistor and put 12k between pin 6 and 7? What do you mean by solder 12k between pin 6 and 7? Does it mean I solder it exactly on the same hole with pin 6 and 7?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, just ignore the Volume pot wires, solder one end of the 12k where the Volume 2 & 3 wire was, and the other end to the row above it.

      Delete
    2. Mark, what is actually the purpose of Overall Volume on this delay pedal? As we know the other delay pedal out there never have volume pots..

      Delete
  70. Guys, I hve a slight problem. I've built one for a friend with Taptation. It works ok, but loses a lot of highs even with the mix knob all the way down (so the dry signal's treble content is already attenuated). I assume some caps need tweaking, my first suspect would be the 4.7n that seems to form a low-pass filter. Any other suggestions please? Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Finally got this solved by removing the 100p and 47p caps from the feedback loops of the two opamp stages. Just if somebody is having the same problem...

      Delete
    2. Thanks for the info Csaba

      Delete
  71. alguien sabe porke distorsionan las repeticiones??

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. analog delay pedals work in this way... :D

      Delete
  72. If I would put a momentary switch to make the feedback infinite, is it possible?

    ReplyDelete
  73. Is anyone still answering questions about this one? I sure hope so.

    I finished my build last night and boxed it today, only to realize that my Repeat doesn't work. I only get a single repeat, and adjusting that pot does nothing. Is there anyone out there willing to take a look at my build and let me know what's wrong? I have high-resolution front and back pictures waiting...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If you upload them somewhere I can take a look too

      Delete
    2. If you read some of the comments above, others have experienced just one repeat and it was being caused by an unwanted bridge somewhere. We know the circuit and layout is good so it means you're going to have to go over the soldering very carefully to try to see where the problem bridge is. Knife the gaps and redo all cuts to make sure there are no burrs causing the unwanted connections.

      Delete
  74. For those of you who may purchase a kit from Pedal Parts UK ( http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Echo_Blue_Delay/p847124_8651062.aspx ) beware that you may need to ground pins 3 & 4 on the PT2399 as mentioned here. Mine worked but would lock up and stop working until I cycled power a few times. Eventually after powering it on/off a few times it would start working again. I checked the board and pin 4 (digital gnd) was not connected to gnd. Once I connected pin 4 to pin 3, no more lockup. The unit works properly every time you power up.

    Sounds very warm and natural. Can't wait to try it live.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes that's exactly the same symptoms others have experienced. Some people still haven't updated their layouts despite seeing the evidence of the PCB pic

      Delete
    2. The kit itself was fairly good quality. Nice PC board, quality poly caps, metal film resistors, sockets for op-amp and pt2399, alps pots etc. Took about 5 hours to build.

      Delete


  75. Hello everyone!
    endless compliments on the site and endless excuses for my english!
    I just finished the Mad Professor Deep Blue Delay!
    okay ... good job!
    the only problem is a kind of distortion that accompanies the sound only in repeats ... even with the repetitions to a minimum!
    almost looks like a fry-distortion only on repeated notes from the delay!
    I would be very grateful if you could give me some advice!
    the voltages are ok, the output of the 78L05 ... I do not know what to think anymore!
    Help!






    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Have you tried another PT2399? That is providing the repeats so if they are distorted when the dry signal isn't, it points strongly towards that chip.

      Delete
  76. Ivlark Thank you for the advice, I tried to replace the pt2399 but the result does not change!
    I had the same problem with a delay of madbean site, and have never been able to understand the reason for this fry-only distortion on the repeats.
    I'll try to replace with the value of some component!
    for the moment, thanks for the reply!

    ReplyDelete
  77. Okay so I finished it, volume and mix both just simply do nothing. I get huge amounts of noise. When I play throught it, I can hear the clean and repeated signal but both have insane amounts of noise! I checked for solder bridges like ten times and used a knife the last few times.. any advice? This is my first delay.
    IC voltages are:

    NE5532
    1 4.25
    2 4.16
    3 4.05
    4 0.00
    5 4.11
    6 4.16
    7 4.07
    8 8.32

    PT2399
    1 4.99
    2 2.42
    3 0.00
    4 0.00
    5 3.22
    6 2.43
    7 0.17
    8 0.69
    9 2.43
    10 2.42
    11 2.43
    12 2.43
    13 2.43
    14 2.42
    15 2.42
    16 2.42

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hm... On the NE5532 pin 3 and pin 5 should be exactly the same and in yours they are not. This is what I can see for the first sight. The power connections (9V and GND) seem to be ok on both chips. Some high res pics of the back and front of your build could also help.

      Delete
    2. Will do tonight, thanks! Also I noticed by looking at other PT2399 voltage readings that there shouldn't be this big a difference between pins 7 and 8, or is this not an issue?

      Delete
    3. Not the cleanest build, but here it is...

      http://www.4shared.com/photo/sC1FDqPdce/20140302_071042.html

      http://www.4shared.com/photo/seiEK2yLce/20140302_071149.html

      Delete
    4. Is 100n cap from PT2399 IC connecting pins 4 and 8, really reaching 8pin?
      It doesnt seem to reach the 8 from the pic.

      Delete
    5. The angle makes it look like it yes, but it actually goes from 4 to 8 yes. There is one more strip below pin 8 of that IC. Look at the 100n cap just at the bottom left of the one you metioned. But thanks!!

      Delete
    6. Any other suggestions to what to do?

      Delete
    7. I marked a few spots with red circles that look suspicious as either solder bridges or cold joints:

      http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/140306/dbd_back_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg

      Might be the view angle though in some cases (if not all...) Have you tried other chips as well?

      Delete
    8. Everything is working fine now! Just used an audio probe and saw that the signal was perfectly fine at volume 1 and all the knobs work fine. Thanks for the help!!

      Delete
  78. Hello there i'm about to build this one but as long as i search for PT2399 here in Greece i had no luck.
    Is there any other audio processor i can use in place of 2399?
    Thanks a lot.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. not that i'm aware of. i'd just order one from Tayda or Futurlec. they'll ship anywhere.

      Delete
  79. There's no problem to order from around the world but i have to wait for about 10 days to have them. The think is that i'd like to have this one ready before Thursday. So if there is any other option for another audio processor easy to find let me now.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. it's a specific chip and I've never seen a substitute for one.

      Delete
    2. The PT2399 is a very specialised IC and I don't know any other that will do the same thing. So even if one does exist I don't think you are more likely to find one locally. So unfortunately you may have to wait.

      Delete
  80. i've ordered 20 of them from china.i'm waiting them this week...thessaloniki...if that helps..but anyway,there is no way to find them in greece..savvas

    ReplyDelete
  81. Thanks a lot every one for your answer. Savva my mail is g.duras@windowslive.com if you like to sell to me please inform me otherwise i have to wait for some time to come from China.

    ReplyDelete
  82. I'd like to know if there's a way to have just the delay sound from this one, only the repeats, the MIX pot does not allow to have it that way when you have it delay crancked. By the way, I've just finished this pedal, sounds so, so great, I made some mods to it, added a second 22k delay pot in series with the main delay time, just to have a little more time, seems to work fine, I added an ON/OFF/ON switch at the 15nf place with 39/15/56 nf and at loger delay times it helps some, added Geiri modulation with a footswich and the leds blinking from his D1, Yeray's Buffered Tails / True Bypass option that is great, and another set of leds that are flashing as sound goes into their minimal circuit, cool effect, gives you a visual idea of the delay time you are using. Id like to be able to have the delay sound only as another option, and then going to a box!-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sounds cool. The dry signal is passed to the output stage via the 22K resistor directly to the right of IC1, so you could remove that resistor and add it to a switch which will be a "Kill Dry" switch.

      Delete
  83. Big thanks Mark, I'll try it as soon as possible and I'll let you know, how it works!

    ReplyDelete
  84. I built this last night, integrating the daughter bd / taptation chip. Pretty cool. One thing I noticed is that there is a bit of reverb in the repeats. Is this a characteristic of this design? I did use 3.3n caps in place of 2.2n. Could that be why? Sounds pretty good anyway.

    ReplyDelete
  85. Yes! Disconnecting the 22k kills your dry signal, letting your repeats sound, very interesting sounds out of it, much more with the modulation, and i,m thinking about reducing the 2k7 resistor from delay time to the the 6th pin of pt2399, in order to be able to work with almost zero latency.

    ReplyDelete
  86. built and it works! However, i notice a very slight motorboating/ crackling noise with the repeats. Each repeat isn't crisp and clear, but comes with the noise. Anyone any ideas? I was thinking its maybe because i'm using ceramic caps for 47p and 100p. For the rest of the caps, i have polyester

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No, ceramic caps are fine. If you're getting unwanted noise check your soldering for any bad joints and if you can't get rid of it search google for a audio probe, make one and see where the noise starts in the circuit. This is where the fun comes from! :)

      Delete
  87. Hello there again. I need your help one more time. I build this one and is the excactly the sound i'd like to be. One think i need is that.
    I want when the delay is all over closed to have no delay on my sound independently of the other knobs. I used 47K pot for the delay knob because i couldn't trace any 50K but i think this is not so curious. Any idea?

    ReplyDelete
  88. fantastic pedal!the "smoothest" build also.it was so easy that i couldn't believe it.3 hours...if you forget that i was waiting 20 days for pt2399s from china...i would say that 100k pot for delay is a must. thanks again mark! you are the best. and mirosol of course too!!!

    ReplyDelete
  89. weird...i'm actually getting a volume boost even with the volume pot turned all the way CCW. anyone else? i'll quadruple check all the wiring.

    ReplyDelete
  90. Hi I just made a build of this and I'm not getting any sound out of it. Only a loud hiss of feedback. Does anyone know what could be a possible solution to this?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. no one to help?? re checked 10 times all parts and all soldering, no shorts...no sound

      Delete
    2. all I can say is that you must have an error somewhere in your build. mine has worked without a single problem since the day that I built it.

      pics:

      http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/others/DBD-01.jpg

      http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/others/DBD-02.jpg

      Delete
    3. You just haven't given anyone enough information to even attempt to help you. Have a look through this: Fault finding a build. Go through the sections and if you're still having no luck post here again with the required info mentioned in number 6.

      Delete
  91. I have built two of these with success, at least I thought, but as I have used them over time I have noticed a problem which both of them have. I looked all over the web to see if this problem has been discussed already, and I have not found any talk of it. The problem is this: the delay and its controls work fine, but every now and then the it gets stuck and either no sound, or choked sound comes through, that is, until I tap the chassis, or kick it, or disturb it in any way, and then it kicks back in again. I have noticed that I don't even need to touch it. I can merely whip my guitar cable lightly, which sends a crackle through the delay and it kicks back on or off. Its not the cable, either, I have tested it. This only happens when I use the delay, and it happens no matter what cable I use. Has anyone else experienced this, and what could possibly be going on?

    ReplyDelete
  92. Hi please help me out! I have a weird sound coming from the pedal but no delay! It sounds like a clock ticking at a very fast rate. It sounds like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fywH8UbZAVg&feature=youtu.be
    My voltages are

    PT2399
    1 - 5.00
    2 - 2.48
    3 - 0.00
    4 - 0 .00
    5 - 3.61
    6 - 2.49
    7 - 0.57
    8 - 0.85
    9 - 2.49
    10 - 2.49
    11 - 2.49
    12 - 2.49
    13 - 2.49
    14 - 2.49
    15 - 2.49
    16 - 2.49

    OP275
    1 - 4.42
    2 - 4.34
    3 - 4.31
    4 - 0.00
    5 - 4.31
    6 - 4.33
    7 - 4.31
    8 - 8.70

    78L05 regulator
    I - 8.69
    G - 0.00
    O - 5.00

    I've already swapped the ICs and the regulator but still no luck. Solder joints are clean and well inspected and with no bridges.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Your voltages look pretty much perfect to me which points more towards a bad connection or faulty component

      Delete
  93. damn.. ive been through all the commments... cant find anything. I keep on getting a straight clean signal from the pedal either on or off.. The volume pot works when the effect is on. Im also using the taptation.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. okay i get repeats now... but it sounds like rushing water with repeats underneath. any ideas?

      Delete
    2. The way you describe it sounds like you have a problem with your PT2399, because the other IC provides the dry signal which you are getting, but you have no repeats added by the PT2399. Do you have another PT2399 based effect that you could check the IC in? Even if you have tried more than one, bad batches of this IC isn't exactly unusual.

      Also I'd recommend testing the DBD board without the Tap Tempo board connected. It's much easier testing these things one at a time without having to also work out whether one or both of the board are giving you problems.

      Delete
    3. it only works on the fastest level of repeats. after that it makes a screeching sounds :/

      Delete
    4. it still goes through clean when the tap tempo is disconnected.

      Delete
    5. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
  94. yup. probably my PT2399 because it does the same thing with the stock delay pot... damn...

    ReplyDelete
  95. I highly recommend adding a tone pot to this one! Remove the 15n an replace it with a B10K pot and a 100n in series.... (-> see DeProfundis Delay)!

    ReplyDelete
  96. I´d like to build the orginal 3-pot (without the volume control) version, but leaving me a possibility to tweak the volume if necessary. Is there some resistor I could socket to achive that?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Socket the 12K resistor to the right of IC1

      Delete
  97. I have built a few of these now, and I love it! However, the last one I built I added a compander circuit to reduce the unwanted clocknoise and hiss you get with the mix knob cranked. It definitely did the trick, but it did have a strange effect on the mix control. With the mix all the way up I now get one good repeat, then a very quick attenuation of the remaining repeats. I am pretty sure this is a result of the compander circuit, but I am wondering if I can play with the gain of the opamp to fix the issue? I tried simply replacing the B50K mix with a B100K and it didn't seem to do much. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The 360K to the left of IC1 sets the gain of the first opamp, so try increasing that. The 12K to the right sets the gain of the output stage so that may need reducing to compensate. You'll probably have to experiment there.

      Delete
    2. Excellent! Thank you for the reply. I will report any findings. Cheers!

      Delete
    3. no such luck. As I feared, boosting opamp gain simply boosted the volume output at best, and at worst it introduced an incredible amount of distortion in the repeats (even more than a good analogue voiced delay should have.) If anyone has any other ideas or points of experimentation to increase mix level I'm all ears! I'll keep tinkering, but thanks in advance!

      Delete
    4. Hmm, now that i look again perhaps it's where i have the compander. It's compressing after the first gain stage then expanding before mix 3. Doesn't look like it's getting back to the feedback. Anyone ever mess with compander in this circuit?

      Delete
  98. I can't get hold of 25k pots, will 20K do?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Tayda do them and they are OK
      http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer/linear/25k-ohm-linear-taper-potentiometer-spline-shaft-solder-lugs.html

      Delete
  99. Would You Please Tell Me How Is The Switch Foot Pinout?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. i guess you're looking for this...
      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.gr/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

      Delete
  100. Just built my 2nd one of these. It will not self oscillate as the first one does. The only difference is that the first was modded with a resistor bridged on the time pot as in the deprofoundus max time mod.
    Will changing the feedback pot value allow for self oscillation? Does the max delay mod on the other allow this? Any thoughts. I would like this to self oscillate as my first one did without changing the stock value on the time, if it would even matter.

    ReplyDelete
  101. I don't have a 10K resistors, can I replace them with a 9k?

    ReplyDelete
  102. Hello there Mark, may I ask if we change the 180k resistor to AD712 pin 2, and the 360k resistor from AD712 pin 2 to pin 1 to lower values means 180k to 100k and 360k to 200k as I have seen in another delay schematics what would happen to the circuit operation?

    thank you very much indeed

    ReplyDelete
  103. Is it ok to use ceramic caps for the smaller values or should they all be mylar?

    ReplyDelete
  104. in the original version Mix 1 and double link going to ground?

    ReplyDelete