Monday, 27 February 2012

HAO Rust Driver - from updated schematic

A few people built the Rust Drive using my original layout (and other layouts which used the same schematic) and thought that it didn't sound quite like it should and saying that there was a lot of noise.  Aegert at FSB got a new one and traced it himself, coming up with an updated schematic, so this layout is based on that.  Thanks for your work on it aegert.


17 comments:

  1. Hello

    Have built several projects from here. All working so far. I built the original layout for this pedal and it worked fine. I built the updated version and get no sound. I know any number of my own mistakes could cause this but I'm pretty meticulous and I'm not sure if the new layout is verified. It looks like pin 5 and 8 are connected in the original but not this layout. I'll start over again ( as I have before! ) but just just wanted to confirm that the new layout was verified.

    Thanks!

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    1. Hi, no this one hasn't been verified as far as I know (unless anyone can chip in and correct me). I've been over the layout several times though and it certainly looks good to aegert's updated schematic. Can you post a front and back pic of your build and I'll see if I can spot anything.

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    2. Incidentally, 5 and 8 were connected by a 100K resistor in the last layout, this was simply because pins 3 and 5 were both connected directly to the 4.5V rail in the old layout and so that formed part of the voltage divider. With the updated schematic from aegert, pins 3 and 5 are connected to the 4.5V rail via a 47K resistor, and so the location of the 4.5V rail had to move (now on the bottom row).

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  2. I said on some thread that i'd finally got my testing box finished, so i started to go through all the untested, but ready builds i have. They are all just waiting to be boxed.. (and hopefully not - debugged :))

    This is one of them. It's really nice distortion. Not mindblowing, but good to have.

    You can call it verified.
    +m

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    1. Does the orientation of the dpdt switch matter? Also, the op amp I am using is a TL072, and it doesn't have a notch at the end... doeds the orientation of this matter? I cant seem to find an answer :(

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  3. Hi, my schematics don't work. Is this layout works ? or could you tell me clearly what it's to be change on this schematics (it's not easy for me I'm french).
    Thanks.

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  4. I just built this one last night. Other than lowering the value of the 47n cap on the switch (it sounded like a blanket was over the amp), it sounds pretty darn good. Kind of an everyday distortion sound. I don't normally do IC projects because I have a higher failure rate with them for some reason. Maybe this will start a new trend. Thanks

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  5. I'm building this one. How can I add a gain knob? 50kb knob instead of the 33k resistor? Thanks!

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    1. 500K pot instead of the 470K resistor. Or 1M maybe for more gain.

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    2. Is the ceramics 22p and 680p and where do the wires from the gain pot go?

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  6. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  7. Just built this one. Typical marshally distortion pedal, nothing spectacular. I used 560pf and JRC4558D as I didn't have 680pf or MC4558.

    The switches are funky in my opinion. 1n mode drops considerable amount of volume so much so that I need to max out the volume pot to make it unity. 47n mode is just slight blanket over normal mode.

    Overall, somewhat disappointed. I think this pedal will benefit from a tone pot but I'm not going to bother. Moving on..

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  8. Great distortion, i build two of the first schematic for my Diy guitar amp based tda2030&2050, with fetzer valve for preamp-boost and after rust driver..i take very higain distortion( a litle noise ) i put inside of my amplifier. Today i build this update for stompbox version.. Great to! But i need more gain.. For more gain what mod i need to do?

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    1. Alone Rust driver is not very higain dist,, this booster together.

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  9. how would i add the extra gain control to this layout, if it sounds more accurate then its the one id like to add it to for sure

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  10. I used 820pF and 1.5nF on the switch (on-off-on) for a usable treble cut. Works fine, sounds good!

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