From the source:
The Hizumitas was designed for the one and only guitar sorceress, Wata, from the legendary band, Boris! We could not be more excited to have the honor of working with such an iconic legend known for her crushing riffs and mind-melting leads. The Hizumitas is a faithful sonic recreation of her go-to distortion which has been a staple of her tone for many years: the Elk BM Sustainar.
Despite the claims it's not a 1:1 clone of the original, as there are some changes, but who doesn't love a BMP variant. The only change from the schematic is I included a polarity protection diode and 100uF filtering cap in place of a 100r resistor from +9V to the power rail. If you want to include it swap out D3 for a standing 100r resistor. Build on fellow followers of the fuzz.
Stock:
With added Mid Switch:
No way I was going to buy one of these. The Boris video is awesome. I might need to build this one, however looks very similar to the cloven hoof...
ReplyDeleteReplace the 39k on tone 3 with a 2-3k resistor, move the leg on the top row down one and add a cut behind it and run that row to leg 3 of a 25k pot. Connect lugs 1 and 2 of the 25k pot to ground and boom - shift control just like on the Cloven Hoof
DeleteDamn, this year is starting off pretty nice. I wondered how they tweaked the Elk sustainar. I knew it probably wasn't to be 1:1 with the schematic on Kit Rae's big muff page.
ReplyDeleteAlso an interesting video about this pedal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7egdV5EU7hg
ReplyDeleteIs that Mid Swtich an On/On/On or On/Off/On?
ReplyDeleteIt would probably be on/off/on so you could switch between the boost or scoop or just as effect is without....
DeleteI have got most of the parts for this and have started building, hopefully I'll be able to verify. I reckon it'll work based on the fact the cloven hoof worked from this page.
on-off-on, just like all the other BMP variants posted that have the added mid switch
DeleteI think you're right about the On/Off/On switch. I poked around some other BMP-based circuits that use a center Off switch (Colossus and BYOC Large Beaver).
ReplyDeleteOk - I have made the circuit on vero. Just need to add the control pots tonight and then test. If all working I'll have a vid up soon, but pics will be on my insta unholy8155. Cheers for the layout Zach.
ReplyDeleteVerified!
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteSorry blogging ID was doing something odd, I wrote a big post and then it didn't upload so just wrote verified.
ReplyDeleteTo go into detail, I built the version without the switch, I will add the switch just don't have the parts to hand right now.
The effect sounds awesome, i tested it thru an Orange micro dark and Marshall 4x12. I will post a full video on my channel unholy8155 soon, there is a pic on my instagram of the same name if you want to check that out. Cheers
out of curiosity would this work with an on/on/on dpdt? like would it just switch back and for between boost and scooped? skipping the option to have neither?
ReplyDeletean on/on/on switch would make the middle position put all the caps together, not bypass them. an on/off/as indicated will do what you ask.
DeleteThank you so much for providing such a great content
ReplyDeletenoise on sustain.
ReplyDeleteTry a different pot, mine was fine.
DeleteThanks Rocket88 for this great Layout! Just finished building it and worked fine first time. Huge sound, one of the greatest BM i have now, must box it now
ReplyDeletethx
ReplyDeleteSo this circuit is almost the civil war BM exactly circuit-wise with different values.
ReplyDeleteSo I have a question, does this circuit have tone CW boost low cut mid and CCW boost treble cut bass? Is that just inherent to a BM?
I'm trying to fault diagnose this because mine isn't working properly. Do you have a schematic?
ReplyDeleteThis one sounds great. The max output level is crazy. I think I could remove the amp from the equation and still hear it:)
ReplyDeleteQuestion...
ReplyDeleteI build the pedal, sounds great, now I want to add the mids boost switch.
do I...
1. Solder 2 wires to terminal 3 of the tone pot, and run one to the veroboard, and one to terminal 3 of the switch?
or
2. Solder two wires to terminal 3 of the switch, and run one to terminal 3 tone pot, and the veroboard
or
3. remove the wire that runs from the veroboard to terminal 3 of the tone pot, and solder it to terminal 3 of the switch?
Thanks!
Did you ever figure this out?
DeleteSoo..... Basically a Triangle with lower gain transistors and 50 K pots.
ReplyDeleteI did the Mid switch, wired up tone pot 3 to the board, then a second wire from tone pot 3 to the DPDT. I experimented with values, but I really do not notice any difference. Should I wire the DPDT to tone 3 on the board instead then run an extra wire to tone pot 3 instead? or should I run both the DPDT and the Tone pot 3 to the board?
ReplyDeleteThis pedal has an astonishing amount of output. Pretty crushing. I like this one a lot. Tone control does not seem to do anything on my build. Could be a short somewhere but I went over the board and scraped, reflowed etc
I figured out the tonepot issue for anyone having similar issues with no difference in sound, in the original elk sustainer schematic, the 3n3 capacitor should actually be a 390pf. After changing the 3n3 to a 560pf, I heard a massive difference in the tone pot and it actually sounded like a BMP tone stack.
DeleteI still cant figure out the mids switch. I am not sure if tone 3 goes to the pot or the switch. I tried wiring tone 3 from the board to the pot and then tone 3 on the pot to the switch, and the switch made little to no difference. I also tried wiring tone 3 from the board to the switch and leaving tone 3 on the pot empty, and still nothing. Not sure what I did wrong.
Same issue with the mid switch and how its wired, did you figure it out?
Delete