Friday, 20 April 2012

Bearfoot Dyna Red Distortion

Info from the builder:

The Dyna Red is a classic distortion that immediatley sounds familiar. What sets the DRD apart is that it also manages to mimic the FEEL of a healthy plexibasketweaver.

While it is known for its crunchy classic  rock  distortion - it also has a  very  tasty 'just above driven' sound that really shows off its  dynamic low dirt capabilities.

the DRD can be safely used between 5 and 15 v. (lower the voltage for easier saturation and raise it to tighten up the response and add headroom)




This has been verified by muhd85:


92 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. can the dyna red 4 knob be powered up to 15v also...and whats the max voltage to run it..thanks

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  2. Does the LED colour/size matter as clipping diodes? I have 3mm Reds but they're the super-bright variants.

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    1. I'd probably suggest socketing them and experimenting. I've never tried any super bright LEDs for clipping because I bought a big batch of the old style diffuse LEDs in various colours a few years ago. The superbrights will almost certainly have a different forward voltage to the type used in the original which would affect the way it sounds. You may like it more but I think sockets is the way to go.

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    2. ...or breadboard before soldering anything to the board. :)
      +m

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  3. Socketing sounds like a good idea, thanks! :)

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  4. does distortion (2) lug connect to the jumper on the stripboard or does it go under the jumper (not touching it)? also, its kinda difficult to see how the LEDs are oriented. does the little light colored dot signify the negative side?

    Thanks!

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    Replies
    1. Not touching and the LEDs need to go one each way, it doesn't matter which is which.

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  5. Built, but not working. Getting no signal at all. Is this layout verified? Any possibilities of any error?

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    1. Yes, muhd85 built it. You need to check the voltages of the IC and JFET and maybe use an audio probe so you can establish where you're losing the signal.

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    2. One thing that I have just noticed is that one of the filters in the BJF Dyna Red isn't used in the Bearfoot, so I've rejigged the layout to remove it. The old layout should still work fine (because it just makes it more similar to the BJF Dyna Red) but if you want it to be exact then snip out the 6K8 and 10u, and the 100p to the right of the IC.

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    3. Did you get it working? I can't get mine to work, everything is triple checked and no sound at all...nothing...in bypass sound is ok but when engaged...I don't think that is is verified as it is here it has to be some change...what are the values on IC and JFET? Can you write that down? Please.

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    4. Yes mine works fine, double check if you don't have any solder bridge between your tracks, also check all the positions of your electronic components, also try to thes another spare transistor and IC

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    5. Measure the voltage between all IC and JFET voltages and ground. That will give a pretty good clue where the problem is.

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    6. Sorry Mark, do you know where I can find info about how to do the 4 knobs version?

      Thanks.

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    7. What are values to match? I don't have solder bridges, all values are matches except 14.7k ( I have 15k) and 3.6k (I have 3.9k). IC is matched and 5458.

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    8. Ok. my values are:

      D - 9.2
      S - 2.3
      G - 0

      IC:
      1 - 0.09
      2 - 4.45
      3 - 4.45
      4 - 0.00
      5 - 0.09
      6 - 4.50
      7 - 9.10
      8 - 4.85

      what do you think?

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    9. I have put a trimmer on 47R from Drain and set it to 4.5 v and nothing. Really frustrating...

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    10. Well that definitely wouldn't work. The 47R is a current limiting resistor for the supply. The drain is sat on the supply rail and should be at 9V.

      I think you need to make up an audio probe and see where you're losing the signal to tie down where the problem is occurring.

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    11. Oh and Alex, I've no idea I haven't even heard about a 4 knob version so I'm not very up to date. What is the fourth control?

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    12. Ok, I will put it back, but what about my values, what can You make out of it?

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    13. I think the voltage look ok which is why I suggest the audioprobe. That will tie down exactly where you're losing it.

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    14. I did probe but i cant get signal all i get is some cracking when pluck strings on Ic and jfet legs. Maybe i am dooing it wrong but when i put it on first resistor afte input i dont get any sound...what exactly am I searching for? My probe works, been testing it on delay pedal. :-)

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    15. You need to follow the schematic from the beginning and see which component you are at when you lose the sound. So you''ve got something like a 100n cap attached to an instrument cable and plugged straight into your amp, and your guitar plugged into the input of the effect.

      So probing the input wire should give you a clean sound because that is the equivalent of the guitar being plugged straight into the amp (with a cap and a few solder connections in the path). Then move through the components:

      Top of 47n input cap
      Bottom of 47n input cap

      Top of 14K7 resistor
      Bottom of 14K7 resistor

      Pin 3 of the IC
      Pin 6 of the IC

      Bottom of 1K resistor

      Bottom of 1u cap
      Top of 1u cap

      Bottom of 3K6 resistor
      Top of 3K6 resistor

      Top of 22n cap (closest to JFET)

      JFET gate
      JFET source

      Top of 1u cap

      Bottom of 3K resistor
      Top of 3K resistor

      Volume pot lug 3
      Volume pot lug 2

      After that lot has been tested you'll know precisely where the problem starts and so what to concentrate on.

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    16. I mean the 4 knob version which has an extra knob to control the mids:

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Yiy60n-6RA

      Some guys here posted comments about this pedal but no one explained ho to make that mod =P

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    17. Also post a front and back pic anyone having problems, something obvious may pop out with multiple eyes looking over it.

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    18. I'll see if I can find out more info Alex

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    19. My sound ends on bottom lug of 47n input cap. I have replaced it and it is the same...is there something wrong with a board? On top lug I get sound but it does not comes trough the 47n input cap. This 47n is 47 nanofarads? so the code is 473.

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    20. Please, can someone help me on this one. I don't know what's wrong...:-(

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    21. Yes 47 nanofarads or 473. If you don't get a sound at the bottom of the cap it doesn't necessarily mean there is a problem with the cap, the problem could be with the junction of cap and the following resistor.

      Check the cut to the right hand side of the bottom of the cap. I think you may find that cut isn't complete or there is a burr or something in the hole causing an unwanted bridge. Re-cut the hole to make sure it's clean.

      Failing that, double check the value of the two resistors that are connected to the same row.

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    22. Ok. I have reached pin 6 of IC now it stops there. On the way it was wrong resistor (wrongly labeled from seller). Is it the same way or is it something different when it is with IC? I have replaced it with new one but it is same result.

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    23. When you come to a point where you're losing the sound you need to check everything connected to that part of the strip. So on that you have the top of the 1K resistor, two LEDs and the lug 2 of the gain pot.

      Are the diodes in opposite ways? Again check the cut under the IC just in case, check values and re-flow any solder that looks like it may be a cold joint. Including the IC of course, and if you're using a socket for the IC check the pins are all going in the sockets.

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    24. I have checked all and no progress. Can it be a bad component?

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    25. Ok, I have build new one, and sound ends on same place. There are two possibilities. Or there is something missing on layout or my ic is bad. I have two and both dont pass sound. Can I use some other alernative just to make sure circuit works? Is Ic orientation to north right on this layout? Please, I need some more help...

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    26. You could try an OP07, LM308 and I think even an LN741 would pass signal even if it isn't a pin for pin equivalent. You were losing the signal at the opamp though so it would make sense if all else is correct that that is the common denominator.

      Post a front and back pic of the board just to see if anything else stands out.

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    27. I have tried 308 and 741 but it stops on same spot as original IC. These are my shots of board.

      http://tinypic.com/r/xfdjmf/5

      http://tinypic.com/r/24odfe9/5

      http://tinypic.com/r/24gmu84/5

      http://tinypic.com/r/66an1z/5

      http://tinypic.com/r/jgmoux/5

      It must be something with a board itself or I'm going nuts and don't see something obvious...please guys...

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    28. Your ground wire is connected to the wrong row, and that would answer exactly why you're losing the signal at pin 6.

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    29. No, it is not, look at bottom pic and you will see. I just push it trough the hole when it is hot so plastic around it melts so it forms nice shield from other components.

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    30. try running a knife or file between your rows. you probably have short/solder bridge somewhere.

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    31. I have a small saw that fits perfectly between rows and I run it trough all rows on every build. Thanks for tip, but no solder bridges on this build. I wish there are some, that would be easy to fix. I think this one is something different...

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    32. Just to say at first I don't doubt in mark or miro but I definitely doubt in verification of this circuit...attention and caution is needed in this one...please guys look at circuit again, it has to be some glitch...

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    33. there is NO glitch. the vero works perfectly abd sounds great. I guarantee that you have an error somewhere in your build of it. that's all.

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    34. Yes, no doubt about it , if it doesn't work for you, how we are going to believe some other experienced and truly users?

      Of course, the layout doesn't works because you're not able to build it, that's a powerful reason XDDDDDDDDDDD

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    35. Sorry guys I only trust Mark or Miro on this one, and they didn't said anything after I posted pics and said that all is correctly connected. Maybe you guys have build other dyna red distortion because layouts are not the same...:-)

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    36. And maybe we're not a bit stupid and know how to build a board, that's a difference too :)

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    37. Take it easy Javi.

      I'll see if i have free time on monday to build this myself. I'm off to play a gig in a minute. New track out from our forth-coming 7'' EP - http://d-beatles.bandcamp.com/ (vinyl should be out in a bit...)

      Don't think i'm able to get anything done tomorrow as i'm going to get shitfaced during and after the gig.
      +m

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    38. @ LarryB. I didn't get the memo. am I supposed to care if you trust me or not?

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    39. I count 6 people on this thread that have successfully built this pedal, there are many people here, myself included, who have verified a lot of Mark and Miro`s layouts. I`ve built nigh on 200 pedals from layouts here and have never had occasion to doubt a verification. On many builds I`ve had problems, never once has the problem been with a verified layout. twice I had component failure every other time it was my error, a lot of these times I could not see it until I put it in a drawer and came back to it later,
      I have no interest in building this pedal, but out of curiosity I breadboarded it tonight and it works perfectly. As you have already stated you will only trust Mark & Miro on this I don`t expect you to bother too much, but until you can accept there is an error with your build then you will not get this pedal to work. You are wasting your time waiting for Mark or Miro to make corrections to the layout, it doesn`t need corrected.

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    40. Make it 7. I built this a while back. Tweaked the tone circuit a bit to my rig, but that was after I built the stock from this layout. I will encourage you to take a deep breath and walk away from it for a couple of days as dexxyy mentioned. I built the Fire Red Fuzz a few weeks back. Fired it up - nothing. Went over it again and again and could find "nothing" wrong. Was getting ready bin it and start over again but gave it one last pass. I had left out one single solitary 1n cap. Bone.Head. All it takes is one component or one misplaced leg of a component. Happens to all of us.

      I began measuring all my components too before soldering in. Seems like a pain, but it only takes a few extra minutes and I've caught components that were bad or mislabeled. Would have been a lot harder to troubleshoot after the fact.

      Be kind to John and Javi. We all read the heck out of their comments and learn lots from them ( and trust them! ). Be encouraged and keep trying Larry.....

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    41. I've gone over the build, the layout, cuts and links look fine and all the parts I can see seem to be the correct values. So with that in mind and bearing in mind that you have had the same results with two builds, I think is suggests strongly that you have a faulty component (or batch of components). I would get a new one of each part from your stash and measure them to see if you can identify a dodgy batch or something mislabelled.

      I too am pretty confident the layout is correct, and I have no doubt at all that Javi, John, dexxyy and tinkercreak amongst others have more experience of building my layouts than I do. They are doing it all the time whereas I am getting opportunities to build far less frequently. I bet they have all made many more of these effects than I have, and I trust their opinions and input on these things implicitly.

      Keep looking but my bet is a rogue component batch.

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    42. Thank you all for your time and I sorry if I have offended anyone, it was not my intention, I have just stated that since Mark and Miro have build this site I was just needed their verification as the ones that put layouts on it. I know that all of you are more experienced than I am, no doubt in that, no one is saying otherwise. Peace. :-)

      Back to the board, I have put new components on it on second build at start. I don't know, You all can see the way I have build it and I agree with Mark that it has to be bed component...I will dig in it once more...Thanks for your help everyone.

      P.S. This is best fx site, ever, keep it up guys.

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    43. Built this today and it works as it should.
      +m

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    44. Although! The treble pot (IMO) needs to be 50K log.
      +m

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    45. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  6. New Layout verified. The 470n in place of 100n was sounding too nasally, and the 100n a bit hollow, so finally settled for 220n which sounded the best. This distortion is pretty nasty and can nail some nice 80's glam metal and grunge tones. Overall great tone but too much distortion for my taste.

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    1. Nice one, thanks for your thoughts on it

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  7. Any idea how this could be changed to the 4 knob version?

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  8. Another favorite of mine:

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3078710/Pedals/2013-01-19%2005.34.41.jpg

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  9. So, i cant find any info on the 4knob version. it says it's wired backwards off the distortion control... Is it running the signal through some sort of rc filter setup? I really like the 4 knob version..

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  10. Ok well I havent had much luck with this, and to be honest I'm starting to get extremely frustrated. I've tripple checked everything, and I have everything connected correctly. the only change I made, was my attempt at making this the 4 knob version. I put what I usually use for variable input caps, lug 2 in, 1-2 lug connected via 100n cap, lug 3 - 470n cap then those are connected together and to ground. the circuit sounds starved and fuzzy, what's the issue? no sustain, spitty, and if I touch my iron to the row just under the IC, it sounds.. "normal"

    Also, I'm not sure why, but if i turn my mids knob, the clipping LED get's brighter or dims, wtf?

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    1. Ok, for those interested, I'm not sure I have the values perfect, but I have a 10k log pot in series with a 470n cap, which is wired in parallel with the 100n, it works quite well, and controls the character as the original does in any clips I've seen. I'm thinking 20k would be perfect, but I don't have any available. I would also avoid linear pots, as they all caused the sweep to bunch up at one end of the pot.

      :)

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  11. I just finished mine today. I made mine the four knob version and it sounds awesome. IMO, a 50K AUDIO pot works ALOT better for the treble control than the linear one (since the linear one comes on all at once at the beginning of its rotation.

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    1. How did you implement the 4 knob version? Can you please elaborate?

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    2. it's been so long since I built and have built so many pedals since, that I forgot how I added the mids knob, but I do like it better with it.

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  12. BTW, here's a pic of mine:

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/BJFE/DRD-01.jpg

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  13. Hello Mark, this is the number 10 pedal I build using your patterns. By making a comparison between the Superlead or other pedals, and it shows a marked difference in terms of output volume. This pedal sounds lower than the others. Does anyone have experience in this regard. any suggestions? thanks

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  14. can the dyna red 4 knob be powered up to 15v also...and whats the max voltage to run it..thanks

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  15. Why no one can explains how to do the 4 knob mod?

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  16. I built this per the layout, it sounds superb. Thanks very much! I would be very interested in the 4 knob version if anybody has ideas -

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  17. I made this yesterday for Xmas gifts it sounds great.

    I used the 470n cap because the 100n to me sounded too nasaly.

    I would also be interested in the 4 knob version.

    Thank You

    http://i.imgur.com/xFzujeO.jpg

    http://youtu.be/qU2xieMAjEk

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  18. okay, I pulled my Dyna Red apart to see how I added the mid control (BTW, I like it AOT better with it). I also noticed changed the input coupling cap on mine from the 47n to a 220n for more low end (since I use mine with a bass).
    courtesy of photoshop, here's how mine is wired with the mid control (you have to make a small 1/2 cut between the 360K resistor and the added 1u cap holes if you're using IvIark's posted layout to do it) and the mid pot is a 50K reverse log.

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/BJFE/Bearfoot_Dyna_Red_Distortionwith_mid_control.png

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  19. BTW, you can use a 330n, a 470n, a 680n or a 1u for the added midrange cap. I used a 1u.

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    1. Thank you very much, I'll follow this on my next build.

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    2. BTW, for the mid mod, if you relocate a few components (i.e. the two 100n's, the 360K and the 1K resistors), you can add a regular full cut to IvIark's layout, like this:

      http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/BJFE/Bearfoot_Dyna_Red_Distortionwith_mid_control2.png

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  20. Made this with the Mids pot and it sounded terrible. I used a C50k etc and it just sucked all the bottom end out in the first 10% of it's sweep. Ditched it and kept it stock. Nothing mind blowing to be honest.

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  21. hmm. mine doesn't do that at all with the mids pot.

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    Replies
    1. Yes, it was a strange and unexpected effect. I binned it anyway as I didn't really care for it so I guess all's well that ends well...

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  22. I'm having an interesting issue. Built, tested (working as far as I can tell), but doesn't like the Klon buffer (from this site). If the buffer is on, the signal gets REALLY trebly. If the buffer is bypassed, or a pedal is on between the two, it is fine. Any thoughts?

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  23. Hi there! I've been using my DRD clone for some times now, love the character of the distortion, but I feel like its too trebly and bright with my Blues Jr. Do you guys have any suggestion to tame the overbrightness a bit?

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  24. mine only works when the ground from the pot is disconectet ? :)

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  25. Mine is too bright too, using a crate 15w, any suggestions ?! thanks a lot .

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  26. Mine is also crazy bright
    help would be great.

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  29. Hi there, for those having difficulties with John's 4-knob version, here's my successful outcome:
    - Use a A50K for the treble as John wrote (linear pot. would react at the last 15% of its sweep)
    - Should you have a C50K for the middle, ground lugs 1 and 2, and link lug 3 on the stripboard where John said. If you can't get hold of any reverse pot, use a A50K, ground lugs 2 and 3, then link lug 1 where John initially linked lug 3 to the breadboard. It'll then be in counter-clockwise direction but it has no importance at all.
    And that's it! You'll never get any trebly sound from this attractive DRD. You'll never want to revert to the 3-knob diagram.

    To be given the choice between two different voltages, more specifically 15 and 5 volts, resort to the 18v/9v charge pump designed by Mark.
    After the 18v source, solder a 1K0 resistor to get 15 volts. After the 9v source, solder a 2K7 resistor, to retrieve 5 volts. Check out the voltages and adjust the resistor values accordingly.
    An on-on SPDT toggle switch will enable you to select each voltage. The terminal (Sw2) is to be linked to the vero at the row where the IC pin 7 is located. The 47R resistor is then useless!

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  30. OK newbie question. I've finished the circuit minus the transistor. I don't have any N channel jfets, can I somehow substitute for another kind like 2n3904 or even 2N7000

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    1. Maybe you can try 2N5457, MPF102, J201.

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  31. Ok so I don't have a CA3130 but I put a LM308 in and it worked. I know the one is a mosfet input but what's the main differences between those opamps and what Audible differences would there be. If much of any. Also I put the j201 in a socket and the effect works fine with out it. Just don't sound as loud or as saturated really I don't really understand what's going on with that either if you have the time to explain

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  32. here is a link to the original layout from the original poster, but with the copper side flipped horizontally and change of color. Original layout could be confusing to a noob and cause problems. Hope this helps. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5A-OciLXLbFU1IwZi1qMlBRWEU

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