Saturday, 21 January 2012

DAM Sonic Titan

I did a mojo axial layout for this a while ago and wanted a more compact layout too, so here it is.  If anyone wants the axial version let me know and I'll dig it out and post it as well.



And one for DSG pinout JFETs such as the 2N5457, 2N5458 or J201

61 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  2. hi ivlark,he tenido problemas de plop con este efecto ,tendras alguna sugerencia para eliminarlo.gracias

    ReplyDelete
  3. Sorry I don't speak Spanish, but the 4M7 should help with popping, but this effect may suffer more by not having an input capacitor. You could try adding one as an experiment to see how it affects it.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Verified. This is a fantastic over/dist... so much mid honk and bite.. Must be something in those LM386's because I've liked every pedal they've been in. This has blown ALL lovepedals sky high.. I'm keeping one for myself!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Replies
    1. Mark is away until the weekend Mirosol ;o)

      Delete
    2. I know. But i think he has wider view of the recent comments than us... Or maybe i should gather a list of missing verified tags for him :)
      +m

      Delete
  6. i built one of these the other day (with the stock circuit). IMO, it's sounds pretty nice but does have the (annoying buzz) when the note fades out. i've tried several different transistors (J201's, 2n5457's and 2N5458's with different hfe ratings and with different bias settings but it's still there. i also modded it to go lower (3 way selectable freq response switch) for use with a bass. IME, i've found that most 386 based OD pedals have this fade/decay issue. even with the drive fully CCW it's still pretty heavily distorted and will only clean up by turning down the guitar or bass's volume control, or biasing the tranny very weak. i'd prefer it to have quite a bit less drive and be able to play clean with the drive knob set fully CCW.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes it's a problem with the IC so the transistor is unlikely to alter it. I saw someone mention the other day that they used an LM386N-3 instead of the more commonly used LM386N-1 which has a higher power output and he said he didn't get the weird artifacts, so it could be worth a try.

      Delete
    2. How do you vary the frequency range? I'd like to add a similar switch to the one I'm building if possible and would like to know what component is being switched and what alternate values seemed to work.

      Thanks!

      Delete
    3. Please, tell me the best sound.
      J201?
      2n3819?
      2n5458?
      2n5457?

      For crude or grainny sound. No fuzzy.

      Thank you very much.

      Delete
    4. Crude, tightest, clearest, grainny sound. Thank you very much.

      Delete
  7. This looks similar to the Nick Greer Sucker Punch. I'm guessing it sounds similar. I kind of liked the Sucker Punch, but it seemed a bit too mid scooped, and the tone sort of just made it too muddy or too fizzy on either side of middle position. There was also the buzzy note fade that John mentioned above. Glad I read that because I kept trying to fix it with the trimmer and was going to start swapping jfets out. I'll have to see if I can score a LM386-3 ( I did use an LM386-1 ).

    Tone-wise, is this pedal mid scooped or more balanced tonally? Vince seems to indicate that there is a little more mid range goodness here....

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hi Mark

    a friend of mine tried both old (producted until 2008) and new versions of the original pedal. He liked the newer better(more gain and less bass he said)
    Do you maybe know on which one of the two is based this one?
    another thing: about the buzzy decay; at my online store they sell the lm386n-3 and also the lm386n-4. do you think it worth try with the lm386n-4?
    Thanks
    Nic

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes definitely. The N4 can take an 18V supply whereas the others versions are limited to 12V, so maybe that extra capacity is an advantage. It's certainly worth trying for the price of an IC.

      I don't know for definite what version the schematic I did this from was based on but I would strongly suspect the older version because the topic was on FSB a good few years ago now.

      Delete
    2. Ok, thanks, I'll try both.
      I did a little research, and the captain himself says that a 10k volume pot will give a brighter tone; could this change have any effect on the gain too?
      Thank you again
      cheers
      Nic

      Delete
  9. Just fwiw, in regards to the lm-386 note fade issue, I replaced the -1 that I had used in my Sucker Punch ( big note fade issue ) with a -3 that I just got in an order. Issue gone. Pedal is great now. Don't know if it will help on Sonic Titan, but the layouts look similar enough - worth a shot....

    ReplyDelete
  10. I'm trying to get more low end and fatness out of this one -- any recommendations on what to tweak? Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Try upping the 4n7s for 10s or higher...
      +n

      Delete
    2. Will give that a try and report back -- thanks!

      Delete
    3. I ended up using a 10uF for the bottom left cap and a 100uF for the top left. I also "biased" it to have more distortion and little less overall output. Results were a more open clearer Titan with more gain on tap when compared to the blue and silver one I had on hand. Oh and I swapped the gain pot for a linear taper for better spread of gain across the dial.

      Thanks for another great layout... now what do I try next...

      Delete
    4. Excuse my noob question. how do u did that thing you said?: I also "biased" it to have more distortion. Could someone explain me how to bias it? thanks a lot in advance for your help.

      Delete
    5. Hi Pepenri, I think he means that he used the trimpot, the yellow object with 10 K written above it in the layout, to adjust the level of gain. A trimpot can be turned by a small screwdriver.

      Delete
  11. Well, just built and box painted. Works really fine and fits a 1590A with no problem. Anyway, I've had a couple of hours debug time.

    All solder seemed fine, resoldered anyway, checked continuity, changed the 2n3819, and so on.... finally, it was that the brand new LM386N-3 I ordered from Mammoth Electronics was defective :( Had to put a LM386L-1 from Tayda, and it started to work great.

    I've detected not fading notes problem but being late evening could not try it at high volume. Will have to order some -3 IC's more, to have a little stock just in case, and to try in this effect anyway.

    BR

    P.S. Don't know which D*A*M pedal build now.... maybe the Meathead DeLuxe, but I'll wait for Tayda to offer the 9mm Alha Pots, they told me it's a matter of days to start selling them, let's hope it's real!

    ReplyDelete
  12. The 5th Dwarf is here:

    http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/3149/22586783.jpg

    I thonk the FuzzRong will fit in a 1590A, so, it's a goood candidate to become the 6th Dwark :P

    BR

    ReplyDelete
  13. Well, just received 10 LM386-4.... Don't know why, but the effect sounds better now, but now have to be careful with the volume because it can get absolutely insane. Any traces of sputter on fading are gone (with the previous LM386L were not very noticeables)

    Will check the datasheet as the only thing I know for sure it the the -4 can get until 18v.

    Anyway, If you can get a -4, give it a try, I bet you'll like it!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Did you get them from Polida? I was going to get some but noticed the pic was of an N3 so wasn't sure. I've already got some N3s and don't really want any more

      Delete
    2. No, no more Polida for me, I'm still waiting the 7660s I ordered on past August :P

      I ordered the LM386N-4s from chip_partner :

      http://www.ebay.es/itm/251031763409?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1907wt_1388

      Not cheap (about 65 euro cents each) but absolutely impossibe to get here in Madrid for less than 2 bucks / unit.

      Sent on Jan 4th, received today.

      BR

      Delete
  14. Just used the DSG layout with a 5457. Nothing to compare it side by side with but I like the sound!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Anything to be done bout the loss of low end? This pedal sounds great but steals a lot of low end.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Replies
    1. I meant the axial one mentioned in the description. Been digging around on the site and can't find it. Thanks!

      Delete
  17. Mark - not sure if the axial layout you linked was already verified but I built it and it works great. Thanks for yet another successful build from your layouts. No idea how many it's been but I have to imagine over 50

    Here are a couple pics:

    http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/Dub-T-123/AD4F5AA6-B2A0-4750-9A40-1AE3F55AC2E5_zpsqbyvsan9.jpg

    http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/Dub-T-123/792E42B8-D94F-4E74-99A1-4C68BF1B90BC_zpspmm2nrtj.jpg

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Great looking build mate. Love the cap selection :o)

      Delete
  18. Thanks Mark. Want a little [free] goody bag? I'd be happy to give you one in appreciation of all your layouts and support

    ReplyDelete
  19. I changed out both 4.7n to 10n and used an LM386-N4 in mine and it's a total doom machine now. Now there is just enough added low end and no note decay. Since the N4 can run at 18v, would it be worth trying it out and what could I expect?

    ReplyDelete
  20. I just built this layout. I'm getting the sputtering as well, so I ordered both LM386N-3 and LM386N-4 chips to try out as you guys say it improves the sputtering issue.

    I also built this perf layout:
    http://www.pedalparts.co.kr/shop/board/view.php?id=order&no=1046

    No sputtering at all and I actually prefer the sound of it. Just thought I would share in case anyone wants to have another option.

    ReplyDelete
  21. Building my second one of these. First I gave to a friend and I missed it. I have it sounding really nice and swapped the 4u7 caps out for 10k for more low end and went to a linear gain pot again. One odd issue though is my level pot works well and then cuts all output in the last tiny bit of its taper. Any idea why that might be? tried two different pots with the same result.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I've replaced the pot, IC and transistor (now socketed) and still have this bizarre issue. Anyone ever experience something similar?

      Delete
    2. I have had this issue on other builds.It could be the jfet bias make sure its right usually but not always half the voltage at the drain I think. So if your power suplly is 9.6 volts you should make sure that drain on the jfet is 4.65v. If its not that could make a big difference i think .

      I havent made one of these but it could also be the wiring . Try shielding the input wires from jack to switch and switch to circuit board. its probably oscillating those jfets are touchy and if you have the trimmer set to high this is the problemthat can cause all kinds of issues .Also check values on all resistors as well especially the first few near the input. if you played with any values or made subs this could also be an issue.Good luck I hate minor issues like this . Rule of thumb dont spend more than an hour or two messing with it you can rebuild this board in an hour or two.

      Delete
    3. whats up billy, lol

      Delete
    4. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
    5. Currently biased to 6.5v so I'll tweak the trim pot when I get home and see if that fixes it. Thanks for the suggestion. BTW here are my voltages on the IC and transistor...

      Level @ 0%,50% and 100% [Gain and tone at 50%]
      Pin 1 - 9.1
      Pin 2 - 9.5
      Pin 3 - 9.5
      Pin 4 - 9.5
      Pin 5 - 9.1
      Pin 6 - 9.5
      Pin 7 - 9.1
      Pin 8 - 9.1

      D - 9.5
      G - 6.5
      S - 9.5

      Delete
    6. Without seeing pictures of the build, I've got to guess you have solder bridges connecting 9V to other rails. You shouldn't be getting 9V at all pins, nor at D&S of the FET.

      Delete
    7. https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8210/28087866474_9aae8e6627_k.jpg

      https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7699/28748610405_7ac18e56c3_k.jpg

      https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8695/28464297620_7d180c9610_k.jpg

      Delete
    8. Got it working. Cleaned up some wiring, rebiased the jfet and swapped two wires on the level pot (had 1/2 swapped causing the cut out at the end of the sweep) and it's all good now. Very cool -- will be building the "mojo" layout again for myself in the future.

      Delete
    9. Try to feed the Jfet with 4,5 or so to the Drain, as strassercaster recomended.
      Feed with less for more compression, or +4,5v for more headroom.

      Delete
  22. works and sounds great but I cant get rid of popping on this one even with jack ormans led circuit and two pull down resistors. otherwise great tone

    ReplyDelete
  23. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  24. Anyone still get the super annoying buzz/sputter note decay while using the LM386N-4? Bought several of the knowing the problems others have had before I tried it on breadboard. Tried 5 ICs and the sputtering remains. So aggravating cuz to me it makes an awesome pedal unusable. Thoughts?

    ReplyDelete
  25. OK, make that 5 LM386N-4's and 10 LM386N-3's...Think I'm going to throw in the towel on this one.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Love this pedal. Just built another with a 2N5458 biased at 4.5V and it sounds great. So much fatter than a Sucker Punch.

    I modded the latest one I built - used 10uF where the circuit says 4u&, and 22uF instead of 10uFs. Also changed the 1K resistor on the gain to 330ohms to get more clean on the gain range. Oh, and I put a 100ohm resistor on the top strip (there is plenty of room) where the 9V comes in to cut out the background noise. It works a treat.

    This is a great, uncomplicated, old-school sounding overdrive, and with my little mods it's pleasantly chunky sounding now. Thanks so much for the layout.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'll try your mods! Thanks!
      I'm using J201, 4.5v at Drain... and sounds really chunky and compressed.
      LM386-4: VERY LOUD!

      You sent that 100R res from 9v+ to ground? or 9v in--->100R--->circuit voltage in?

      Delete
    2. Add the 100Ω resistor along the top track lengthwise and make a cut under it so the +9v goes thru it before hitting the links going to fet and 386. It works wonders in noisy ass circuits

      Delete
  27. n00b here... what does the LED+ mean? Attach that to the LED + leg? Trying to wire it to 3pdt so I think I’ll just do some googling but was curious what that meant exactly since I would assume LED - leg should go there...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. -leg go to 3pdt switch. you can refer to this page http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.kr/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

      Delete
  28. I build it 2 times and it does not work.. BUT.. I have seen pictures on the internet and all builds were just the other way around. before i build it and fail again.. If i look on the layout do I have to look on the top of my stripboard?

    ReplyDelete
  29. Is there a simple way to lower the output just a bit? I get unity gain a little before noon. From there up to around 3 o'clock there's a volume boost that I'm probably not gonna use a lot, but is nice to have. But nothing good happens after 3 o'clock. On extreme gain and tone setting, it feels like it's on the edge of oscillation. And I can imagine at higher volume, it might actually oscillate.

    I build the DSG version. I swapped the 1K resistor for a 390R, which gives me less gain at the minimum setting. Everything else is stock.

    ReplyDelete
  30. Having an odd bias issue, measuring 9.6V at power input, but trim pot will not allow me to set the trim below 7.0V. I've swapped out 2n5458 and 2n5457 with not difference. I checked the sweep of the trim pot and it reads 0-9.99k ohms. Aside from replacing the trim pot with a 20k resistor, not sure what the issue is. I've checked for solder bridges and found none. Any suggestions?

    ReplyDelete