Tuesday, 29 November 2016

Earthquaker Devices Tentacle

Basically the Tentacle is Dan Armstrong Green Ringer with a few value changes.

Now for those of you that liked the idea of building a Hoof Reaper, which I mentioned when I posted the layout for the Tone Reaper, the Tentacle should go in between the Hoof and Tone Reaper for the Octave effect. So for all the disciples of fuzz out there, pair this your favorite fuzz for some crazy octave up fuzzy goodness.

Direct from the source:

The Tentacle is a classic analog octave up effect. It is the very same octave from our beloved Hoof Reaper pedal. We got so many requests to make this a stand-alone unit that we just had to make it a reality. You can now add an excellent, swelling octave up to anything your heart desires! Pair it with your favorite fuzz, strap on a headband and unleash your inner Jammy Hendrix. Put it in front of another octave up and blow your amp's mind. Throw it in the effects loop of a delay and marvel at what happens (then tell us, we’d like to know too). What’s better? It has no controls! Nothing to worry about at all here, just hit the switch and go for it. The Tentacle is an analog octave up, the effect will become much more pronounced when using your neck pickup and playing above the 12th fret.





Edit: For those that have built this already based on the original layout upload, flip Q2 so the Emitter is towards +9V and the Collector is towards Ground.

60 comments:

  1. Thanks for the layout. Are you sure about the transistors? In the Green Ringer Q1 and Q3 are NPN and only Q2 is PNP... Also on FSB Q1 and Q3 are marked as 2N5089 (NPN).

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    1. Oh, and the resistor from input to gnd is marked as 2k2 on your layout, I guess that is a standard pull-down resistor and then the correct value would be somewhere above 1M (maybe 2M2 and then it just a typo?)

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    2. Output cap is 100n on schem too.

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    3. From the schematic posted on fsb : https://s16.postimg.org/52iqhph4l/EQD_Tentacle_schem.png
      Pulldown is 2M2, Q1 & Q3 2n5089, Q2 2n3906 and output cap 100n
      I guess you used another schem Zach

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    4. no just typos. i made the corrections.

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    1. It's in the build notes. Q2 is 2N3906

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    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    3. I think he means which one on the layout is Q2. They're not labeled as to which one is which. Are they 1-3 left to right positionally?

      Also, in the notes it says Q1 & Q2: 2N5089. Next line says Q2: 2N3906. Is the first line supposed to be Q1 & Q3?

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    4. Wtf, the transistor labels disappears from the board, and I see the notes as it should "Q1&Q3: 2N5089", "Q2: 2N3906". Not sure why it's not coming up right otherwise. I'll go back and put the labels in when I get home in a few hours. Thanks for pointing that out so I can put it back.

      In any event Q2 is the transistor in the middle of the board.

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    5. Verified. Used MPSA18's instead of the 2N5089's and works fine. Placed after a NKT275 loaded Fuzz Face. Sitarish on the bridge pickup and metallic chaos on the neck. Thanks Zach for a great layout. Oh and I had to replace the 100uf cap with a 47uf and the diode to ground with a BAT 41 for empty stock reasons but I figured it was a filter cap and a polarity protection diode so wasn't that imperative? If I'm wrong let us know but it sounds really cool at low volumes, i'll crank her up tomorrow.

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    6. great job man. when you get some 1N4001 i would swap out the BAT41 for the power filtering. also, glad to hear it worked with MPSA18s, i would have thought that they would have way too much gain compared to 2N5089s, 10000s vs 100s respectively.

      also, i went back to my layout and removed the notes and transistor labels to redo them, so they should show up on the layout. if not let me know.

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    7. Thanks for the answer. I'll built this soon.

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    8. Hey Zach, I used the MPSA18s as I was under the impression that the 2N5089 was a higher gain device? I've socketed the trannies though so i'll pop some others in today. Thanks for the heads up re. the diode, yeah 9v > Gnd, makes sense now it's function is for power filtering. Looking forward to stacking it with some distortions.

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    9. On a side note you could save a column by sharing the same hole for the 2 68k like we usually do with links and moving the link 1 column right.
      Could be usefull to fit 1590A enclosures

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    10. Hey already: Yea I saw that. You could also have the diodes share a hole, and save another column. I didn't do that on the layout cause I try to avoid components sharing holes and standing resistors, but I could tweak the layout later with those changes for those that was a smaller layout for a 1590a.

      Hey Phill. Both 2N5089 and MPSS18 are high gain/low noise, but MPSA18 typically have higher gain. Not saying it won't work, just saying it may sound or act different with 2N5089, know what I mean? Glad your enjoying the build too man.

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    11. Hey Zach I tried some lower gain trannies and they seemed to work better (sounds less compressed now). Ended up with BC107 for now till my 5099's arrive. BTW I did a little P Diddy name change [P.Gofton > Phil.G]. Bit friendlier to be on first name terms I reckon.

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    12. Sweet, great info phill. Really glad to hear that it sounds even better now.

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  3. Do the 47nf caps need doubling to use this for bass?

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    1. I don't think so. I've seen a few videos on YouTube with this used for bass as is.

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  4. Cool. Might have a stab at this then.

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  5. Can somebody point me to the differences between this beauty and the green ringer? I'm having a hard time finding them.

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  6. Has anyone tried using a 5088 instead of 5089?

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  7. Yeah man they work although i tried 2 BC107's and they seem to work better for me. Still waiting for some 5089's.

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    1. I found the 5088's way to low gain and the 5089's a little better. Tried an mspa18 and a little better still but not right atall.

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  8. noob question - what is CLR?

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    1. CLR, means current limiting resistor. So instead of having to wire the +leg of the LED with a resistor to directly to the do jack, you connect it to the main board. The CLR prevents the LED from blowing up on you.

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  9. This will be my first build... can someone explain the difference between the orange/pink/yellow caps? Is there a key somewhere?

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    1. The pink is electrolytic, normally available in the uf range. The orange is film or poly. Normally in the nf range. Yellow is ceramic. Available in the pf to nf range but used for pf because film caps don't go that low. But you can use the ceramics for the nf's also instead of film.

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    2. Hey man, welcome. If this is your first build I would highly suggest reading the build guide before doing anything. Just to add to what Brent had already mention. Typically you want to use ceramic caps for pF values unless you need some thigh to fit in a tight space, as they can be microphonic. Also, don't get hangup in the colors of the components, pay attention to the values as you'll see different colors for every component, so if you look at the value you know what you should use.

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  10. Tried with 5088 -too low
    5089- a lil better
    Mpsa18 the best so far but this is still a volume and gain sucker. Something isnt right and i have built 2 of these. Are you sure the values are right because it feels there is something wrong.

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    1. Based on the trace I'm certain the values are correct. I honestly think you've got build errors in both of your builds. It was verified with MPSA18 which are very high gain, as well as with BC107 which is much lower gain, 100-500hfe.

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  11. can someone help me with the 3pdt wiring please

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    1. Look at the tab labeled offboard.

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    2. thank you for redirecting me, sorry I'm new here

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    3. No worries man, I'm glad to help. Keep in mind you're not really going to see how to wire the switch for any of the effects here unless it's special, like the KLON. The reason being that the true bypass offboard wiring is all the same, so keep that layout handy.

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  12. Quick question. Ive been on the fsb and checked the trace, and appears on yours theres a third diode. The two 4148's are there but on this one the 4001 is added.

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    1. It's there. Check the notes on its position, it runs from the 100r resistor to ground, it looks like a white circle. I have to go back and mark it as D3.

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  13. I have found my issue. I forgot the jumper. Working fine now, both 5088 and 5089 tested id say not much between em. Maybe wise words repeated but i slept and relooked with fresh eyes, i was about to have a crack at some green ringers but sonically through research i prefered the tentacle. There my be not much difference if tall.

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    1. Great man. I figured something had to be off in your build. I always do that when a board is giving me grief when it should work and doesn't. Just walk away for a bit and I can usually spot the problem in 5min.

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  14. How much signal does this thing need to sound right? I've built one (matched pair of 2n5089s) and I just get a quiet, tinny sound out of it. I'm sending my Jazz bass straight into it, but I've also tried putting a boost in front of it and it's still the same.

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    1. I think you've got a build error or two. Post pics over in the debugging section of the forum.

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  15. I was reusing a 22kΩ from another project and it hadn't quite gone through the board properly. All sorted now thanks.

    Great sounding pedal Zach, thanks for this one.

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    1. anytime man. it's usually stupid stuff like that we always miss when there's a problem with a build. like putting the transistors in backwards. but, the important thing is it's sorted. how is it on bass? been debating if i'm going to build it myself.

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    2. Tried this with a Split n' Blend today and it sounds amazing on bass. I'm probably only blending about 20% clean to 80% octaved to put a touch more low end back in, but it makes a HUGE difference.

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  16. Thanks Zach. I remember once testing a build that didn't work; I was halfway through checking the values of each component on the board when I spotted the empty transistor sockets...

    I'll give it a proper going over tonight and see how it works with a blend and maybe an R/C crossover...

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  17. Is it just me or is Q2 upside down? If i compare it to the green ringer it seems to be.

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    1. nope the pinout and orientation of the transistors are correct. both layouts are different, and the orientation of the transistor will be dependent on where the power and ground rails are.

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  18. if you look correctly the green ringer's Q2 collector goes to the 10k then to ground, the tentacle's collector goes to 10k then the power rail. just found that odd, i Wonder how much it changes the sound.

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    1. There are 2 10k resistors that come off Q2, 1 is 10k to ground off the emitter, the other 10k to power off the collector. This is the same in both the green ringer and tentical. Again, this has the same topography as the green ringer with some different values. I would not sit and compare the arrangement of components between the two layouts to see differences as where the components are placed are not going to make a difference the values will make a difference.

      If you're insistent to find all the differences between the two just compare the schematics. As to how the differences in component values affect the tone you'll have to either build the two to compare for yourself or check out some audio/video clips.

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    2. No the q2 transistor is clearly not hook up the same. In the green ringer the Emitter goes 10k to the positive rail and collector goes 10k to ground. Im not talking about the components values at all. BTW they are almost identical apart from q2 orientation.

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    3. Q2 is backwards according to the schematic for the Tentacle and Green Ringer (which makes perfect sense since it is PNP), but all you need to do to match the schematic is to swap the collector and emitter around on Q2.

      So if you socketed the transistors, nothing on the board would need to be changed, you could just flip Q2 around

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    4. If you compare this lay out to the green ringers you should understand what i mean about the orientation of q2 being different http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2010/12/dan-armstrong-green-ringer.html

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    5. Took a look at the schematic again, and yes Q2 was reversed. The layout had been updated. Surprised it was verified with it reversed, which is why I didn't go back to look at the schematic, my bad. But again, comparing layouts of similar pedals will not help figure out mistakes, since the layouts themselves will be different you need to look at the schematic.

      I put a note at the top for those that have built this based on the original posted layout to just flip Q2.

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    6. This is interesting, I'll flip Q2 tomorrow morning and report back.

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    7. Now it's working properly! I knew it wasn't 100% but the trouble with not ever playing or hearing one and solely relying on YT vids is you assume it could be your own gear (guitar/amp) that's effecting the sound of the pedal but voila now i'm getting that 'klang' and cut through at lower boost levels. Thanks to Greg for giving us the heads up, cheers pal.

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    8. No problem.... I was wondering why I though it could have been a reversed beta deal like what death by audio uses in alot of there pedals. Glad it's cleared up. I was starting to wonder if I was crazy!

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    9. Haha. We all have those moments. Glad in the end it was caught. Funny how this has happened before that a layout gets verified when there's an error in it. Must still sound good with the transistor reversed. Lol

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  19. Hey Zach, I put 2N5089's (Fairchild) and the 1N4001 in and all is well. Really well actually. It's been fun experimenting...it's extremely responsive to where in the chain you place it/what you feed it into etc so i'd advise anyone to mix and match up with boosts, dirts and fuzzes to bring out the different flavours. Current setup favourite...Tele Custom > germanium fuzzrite (dimed) > tentacle > catalinbread echorec. Thanks again man.

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  20. I put this together and it sounds great! Added the Mini JFET Blend and ran that into an EHX LPB1 and it definitely gives this a bit more versatility. Can't wait to box it up and pair it with some distortion/fuzz!

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