The Doom Bloom reimagines Algal Bloom with new controls, more lows, bite, mass, and more available
headroom. It's stupid with lows and menace! Designed to hold together and retain clarity with lower tunings.
Controls:
- Bloom is Bloom...it's fuzz+gain+definition. It increases gain and note separation. Rather than going mushy or
washy, it holds together pretty nicely when cranked. It holds up well with lower tuning because of this.
- Head is headroom. As you turn it right, headroom increases, making the pedal less clipped, but also louder and
more open (favoring transistor fuzz over clipping diodes). So while turning right reduces how clipped it is, it also
increases mass, for some big thunderous chords. Full-spectrum massive attack!
- Body (Body and High work together). Body shifts a huge amount of lows in/out of your sound...but leaves your
highs totally in tact. (Unlike Tone controls that make you choose either [bassy and dark] OR [bright and thin]). Body
also adjusts fuzziness.
- High lets you then control your highs, separate from Body. Set your lows and fuzziness where you want it, then
adjust your highs.
- Bias biases the first transistor gain stage (controlled by the Bloom knob), functioning as an additional boost and
character control with massive boosting power!
Looks like the pulldown resistor and 47pf cap are connected to nothing on one end
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteAh, deleted my last comment about the polarity protection diode cause I misread the layout.
ReplyDeleteThe diode is connected between 9V and body 1 right now though so check that part out
crap, you're right. moved some stuff last minute and forgot to save it.
Deleteput things back to how i had them before. quick glance looks right to me now.
DeleteThe diode is floating off the supply now. Are you planning on matching the schematic with the parallel protection or changing it to series protection?
ReplyDeleteWtf. Not sure why it's like that. In the schematic it connects to ground on one end and the other connects to the 100r set +9V, and I had it there before I reuploaded it. I'll take another look on my computer when I take a break and see if it's in the right place there and it just got messed up when it was uploaded or what I did.
Deleteok, put it back the way it should have, so should be good. such a simple circuit, and me making so many mistakes, it's killing me.
DeleteThe schematic has the diode with striped end pointing *towards* +9v. The way you have it now will allow current to flow from +9v through the diode and the jumper straight to ground, i.e. shorting thw supply. You could just flip the diode orientation (which would make it like the schematic, i.e it will wor, but it is a pretty poor polarity protection since it just shorts the supply if polarity is reversed) OR flip the diode, remove the jumper and move the red +9v wire down two rows. This gives series polarity protection which will protect both the supply and the pedal if polarity is reversed.
DeleteThat's a good idea nocentelli. I was looking at the polarity protection and thought it was really the best implementation. I'll make the change when I get home.
DeleteAnd the "want to build" stack is growing and growing...
ReplyDeletefixed the power protection, and the tone section including changing the 330nF cap to 33nF as mentioned in the FSB forum post.
ReplyDeleteYeah I've been wanting this one since I built the Algal Bloom. These are great sounding Fuzz units to my ear.
ReplyDeleteupdataed the layout to match the changes in the trace over at FSB, specifically the 47pF cap should be 470pF
ReplyDeleteThe 470n in the power supply is also 47n on the trace, and apparently mislabeled 470n on the schematic.
DeleteNot that I really expect it to make a difference!
Didn't see that change in the last update. I'll fix it later, but agree that shouldn't make a difference.
Delete2 clips. First in standard tuning, getting the glitchy radio sounds, second with a downtuned guitar, getting some heavy doom. The original pedal owner tells me they sound accurate.
ReplyDeletehttps://soundcloud.com/user-562468024/alexsez-doom-bloom-clone-2016-11-16
https://soundcloud.com/user-562468024/alexsez-doombloomclone2-b-tuning-2016-11-16
So does this mean it is verified by you? I ask because the status is still unverified. I can't wait to start this build. Cheers
DeleteYes I built two of these. This one, and my own layout. They sound the same. The bass control cuts clockwise, as in the original unit.
DeleteI changed one thing on this layout though, to match the original trace.
Connect Bias 1&2 on the bottom row, instead of 2&3 on row "J".
this fuzz is awesome, thanks for the layout, I'm going to build this.
ReplyDeleteand is it 12cuts 2links or there is 1 more link I miss?
thanks.
you're right. i made a change and moved stuff around and forgot to remove the 3rd link from the layout.
DeleteOh boy, this is gonna be my Christmas break project for sure.
ReplyDeletethanks zach.
ReplyDeleteZach, add a DPDT wiring for this curcuit please. And where to solder the LED+ wire? I'm novice, just trying to understand.
ReplyDeleteHey man. Typically you're not going to use a dpdt switch for wiring if you want to use an led, you want s 3pdt switch. To see how to wire it up using s 3pdt switch look at the tab on the top labeled offboard.
DeleteIf you're set on using a dpdt you're going to want to build another board called a millennium bypass board. Here's the link to the millennium bypass:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/01/millennium-bypass-2.html
Wow, thanks a lot, everything is clear now! :) 3PDT switch is exactly the thing I need. My mistake :) This fuzz is outstanding, can't wait for building it! Thank you, Zach!
Deleteanytime man. glad to help. don't forget if you run into issues with your build, have questions about building, or just want to chat check out the forum. oh, and welcome to the community man.
DeleteZach, could you help me please again? :) Messing with polarity on a LED. Can I replace it with something (maybe a diode) to get the LED out of the board to make a offboard true bypass like by the link you mentioned? Or could I wire it somehow else?
DeleteHey man. If you want the LED not connected to the board just wire it as you would any other pedal, like what's shown on the offboard wiring layout. So run a wire with your resistor value of choice from the power jack, and connect it to the + side of the LED, and connect the - side of the LED to the switch like normal. Then just remove the CLR from the layout.
DeleteSo, I can simply remove LED and CLR from the circuit and it will work? Thank you! That's all I need to know :)
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DeleteOne thing - if I remove the LED from the layout the "Head 3" wire will not be connected to anything. Is it right?
Deletei think i miss understood what you were asking, and we're talking about 2 different LEDs. if you're talking about the LED that's shown on the board, D2, you don't want to remove that from the board as it's clipping diode not a status LED. the connection for the status LED has the + leg connected to row A on the right side of the board. if you're talking about removing the status LED connection to the board then follow what i posted before.
DeleteOw! So I actually need 2 different LEDs to complete this! :) Got it finally! :) Thank you, Zach, you saved my brain from exploding! :))) Need to visit local shop for some parts now:)
Deleteany time bro. happy to help.
DeleteCan't thank you enough for all your advises and help, Zach! Finally I made it. This thing sounds REALLY awesome. In life better than on Youtube of course ;) Gotta do some alchemy on input resistor though. The sound is kinda "locked" when guitar volume is on maximum (have active pickups). Well, I supposed it may behave this way and have what I expected anyway. Also wired on/off switch to it just for fun and powered the pedal from 9v battery (have enough of adaptors in rig to hate them:) )
DeleteHas Alex s verified this or not?
ReplyDeleteRegardless of the severity of the sexual decline, it is vital that earlier than taking any kind of supplement or medicine, the male exams along with his doctor to ensure there is no underlying purpose of the circumstance. specifically, stress, continual illness and once in a while psychological.For more ==== >>>>>> http://testoupmaxfacts.com/penetrex-male-enhancement/
ReplyDeleteHey what is the clr resistor meant to be?
ReplyDeleteThe clr is the resistor for your indication LED and is whatever you like to use.
Deletecool banana man cheers
Deletefinish the broad, not wiring and test yet..
ReplyDeletewill make a demo video when done, thanks for the layout.
here some photo share: https://goo.gl/photos/wTcoHWErgK7iHNBX6
success~ the level pot not work in the begin,
ReplyDeletesimply connect the level 1 to ground to fix..
demo video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WmpdvTS_w0
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Deletedost the 1uf Caps need to be non-polarised? If not which way dost they face?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeletePakkee Hung: Did you get it to work?
ReplyDeleteyes, there's a simple demo video link in comment.
DeleteI built this, it works well, sounds good
ReplyDeleteSo this should be tagged as verified
DeleteVerified once again!! connect Bias 2&3 on the last row and Bias 1 at row "j"!!!
ReplyDeleteNever saw that it was verified. I'll mark it and make the change. Cheers man.
DeleteZach, when i connected the bias pot as it is stated in your layout i got less fuzzy sound instead. Is that possible, or my ears have gone bad from excessive testing?? haha! Cheers!
Deletehe man. that makes sense to me. the pot alters the bias of Q1, so in one direction it should smooth it out, counterclockwise in the video, and the other should make it gated and gnarly, clockwise in the video. with the switching the position of the bias wires is that what it does?
DeleteSwitching the position doesn't alter which way the "gnarly gated" sound comes on but i think it makes a difference in the final sound of the effect.Still fully ccw is smooth, fully cw gated etc. Alex S said he has done the switching first, few posts above, that's where i tried it from and found the difference, Anyway it works great both ways! :)
ReplyDeleteKudos for another great layout! I think "head" 1 & 3 should be reversed though. At least that happened in my build :)
ReplyDeletehow will i wire it if i use a polarized 1uf caps?
ReplyDeletecan't seem to find a 1uf (105).. thanks!
Get some monolithic from tayda. Cheap and available on big values at a small size. I like polyester films for delays and stuff, but for fuzz ceramic is fine :P
ReplyDeleteMy son wanted this pedal so we built it together, works great and he loves it!
ReplyDeleteWe will name it Domi Bloom with the leds in Bloom as his name is Domi :P
Cool Fuzz, built it into a 1590B and it fired up on the first try.
ReplyDeleteIt's very versatile, yet I think I'll keep my Hoof clone on my board. But I'm not entirely sure about that yet.
One thing to note: I have Bias 1&2 in the bottom left to fit the shematic I found elsewhere. Not sure If that makes a sonic difference though.
Thanks for another great layout! Strongly recommendet for anyone who maintains a fuzz collection.
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ReplyDeleteSo where does High Lug 3 go
ReplyDeletehey guys ! i built this circuits and it works. today i tried to play this circuit but i accidentally inverted the input and ground wires. result : it sounds awesome !!! i wonder how it is possible but this circuit is even better like that in my opinion. lets try and tell me what you think about it :)
ReplyDeleteWhat is the "CLR" resistor looking thing?
ReplyDeleteHey, sorry for reviving (?) this thread. Does the color of the LED and its size affect the sound in any discernible way? If so, where could I learn about this?
ReplyDeleteI have built this, and it is sounding like it could be really great, but I think I have a couple of problems... should the Bloom control cut the signal at one end of the pot's throw? Because it is. And also, should I be seeing some flickering on the LED while playing? Because I am not. If anyone knows the answers to those two questions, that would give me a good start on getting this sorted. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteAlso I am guessing Level off of the board is Volume.
ReplyDeleteI'm having the exact same issue with this. Doesn't sound quite right. Bloom control cuts signal at one extreme, LED doesn't light up
DeleteIt's a weird circuit. The fuzz gets nastier as you turn it up. For a smoother fuzz sound you turn the starve counter fully and the fuzz about half way. Also the "Head" function stands for headroom so turning that counter clockwise actually gives you a thicker fuzz sound. The LED on mine doesn't fully light up so that's normal. I found that slightly lower gain trans work better in this circuit. So if you have a bunch of 5089's, look for the lowest hfe in the bunch. I like it a lot personally, as well as the Algal Bloom, but it's an odd one for sure. FYI, I've made several Algal Blooms and the modified version on Tagboard is the best one I've tried. It's probably better than the fuzzhugger version.
ReplyDeleteThanks for replying, it's working now. I'm not sure what changes but I went over all the cuts and did a little scraping between the traces and now it's working as it's supposed to and sounds great. I tried a few different transistors as I don't have any 2N5089. I tried 2N5088, BC109C and settled on BC549C with a green clipping LED that to my ears sounds better than the red. Thanks.
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