Sunday, 27 November 2016

Earthquaker Devices The Depths

Direct from the source:

Ahoy! Welcome to your new Depths Optical Vibe Machine! The Depths is our take on the classic optical vibe circuit. Now you can swab the decks with the same lush, pulsating, three-dimensional swirling sound you know and love, with some modern accouterments for all you land-lubbers out there.

The Depths is optimized for use with all kinds of instruments, pickups, and to play well with dirt, so nobody’s left waiting on shore. If it’s got a ¼” output, plug it in and get deep!

 In addition to the classic vibe controls, the Depths features unique controls for “Voice” and “Throb.” The “Voice” control adjusts the midrange focus of the Depths, which is perfect for tailoring the effect to your particular instrument. Clockwise, you’ll hear a fuller sound with a low-end focus. Counter-clockwise, you’ll hear a thinner, spikier sound with a forward upper-midrange bite.  The “Throb” knob adds a hefty subharmonic low-end pulse to the vibrato signal, which is especially useful on synthesizers and the bass guitar. It sounds great with a little bit of dirt on the neck pickup of a guitar, too! This works best with the “Voice” turned counter-clockwise for a warmer tone.

The Depths’ “Intensity” and “Rate” controls are dialed in to give you the classic optical vibe sound at more modest settings, but dive in deeper and you’ll find anything from a smooth ultra-slow warble to sharp, speedy bursts! Also, the “Level” control has tons of output above unity on tap to combat the perceived volume loss of most vibe pedals, so your tone is always above water. And, if 9v isn’t enough to keep you afloat, the Depths may be powered at 18v for a stiffer tone with more headroom and sparkle.


We've got 2 layouts for you.

Layout 1: We've got the the LFO off the main board to hopefully prevent the dreaded LFO tick. Should fit in a 125b like the original. Downside is that there is more offboard wiring you will need to do.

Layout 2: Slightly larger board, with the LFO on the main board. You shouldn't get any ticking, and you'll save on having to deal with the extra offboard wiring.

63 comments:

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    2. http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/EQD-The-Depths-gut-shots-td34241.html

      :-)

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  3. Verified bottom layout! Had to use diffused LEDs as for some reason when i turn up the voice pot to max it blows the clear ones. Used GL5549s for LDR and diffused yellow LED. Need to try some different LED colours and maybe LDRs as its not quite perfect yet but pretty damn close.

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    1. Scrap that about the clear LEDs. I must of had a couple of dodgy LEDs as tried again with a clear and it worked fine.

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    2. Schematic is in the Forum section.
      Thanks Gavin!
      Does it sound like the video?

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    3. It's hard to say as these guys can really play and there setup is probably very different to mine but mine definitely isn't as clean sounding but that may be the choice of LDRs or LEDs. Its something i need to experiment with when i have time. Oh, thanks as always for your sterling work and all who contributed, Cheers.

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    4. Ok, so the noise seemed to be from the LED attached to the pedal (used an Ultrabright) as i hadn't covered the LED/LDRs. Normally that isn't a problem as I like my studio quite dark. Covered the LDRs/LED with a bottle cap and it cleaned it right up. Now sounds like the video, pretty much.

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    5. Schematic is not in the forum section. At least not in any of the threads the search engine comes up with ....

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    6. not sure how you're searching in the forum will, but it's under the requests section, and it's on the first page of the thread.

      http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/EQD-The-Depths-gut-shots-td34241.html

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    7. OK I found it.
      Thanks for the quick reply, Zach!
      Honestly, I tried this again. If you enter the title to the layout as posted above the 3 search returns that come back don't include this thread. It's probably because the thread with the schematic has a shortened title (with the initials EQD) instead of using the full title; Earthquaker Devices. I guess I should have figured this out myself.
      Thanks again Zach,
      Will

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  4. Maybe try a GL5528 or GL5537? 150k-10M for the 5549 is quit a big sweep vs a 15k-1M for the GL5528.

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    1. Hey Arnold, Thanks for the suggestions. I do have these and will give both a try out. Will let you know the results when i give them a try.

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  5. Spell check requested in the title aisle please. :-)

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  6. How do you guys feel about a 2n5088 as a replacement for the MPSA18? Tayda does have them, but I just did an order a week ago and it'll be a while before I can do another. I've got everything else.

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    1. nope. mpsa18 have gains in the 10000 range. you should be able to grab a few super cheap on ebay for now if you don't want to wait for an order from tayda, in fact thiashine on ebay is tayda with shipping basically included. it's always good to have mspa18 around, so i would get a few now for this build, then on your next tayda order add a bunch cause they're still super cheap.

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    2. Socket and try. It might work, as the MPSA18s are here the LFO, so the different hFE might not be a problem. But I do agree with Zach: MPSA18s are always handy, so it makes sense to stock a few in your parts box.

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    3. mpsa18 are in the 650-1000 hfe range usually . i have some 2n5088 that are in the 450- 580 hfe . 2n5089 are in the 580-770 range always exceptions but as long as you get over 580 it should be fine

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  7. ...and that's Layout 1 with the daughterboard verified too. No ticking and fits in a 1590B!

    Cheers lads

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    1. Cool Ciaran! Thanks for the schematic!

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  8. How do you guys think this compares to the Runoffgroove Tri-vibe?

    The playing in the demo is fantastic. And here I thought I wasn't a fan of vibrato pedals :p

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    1. I've built this, the Tri-Vibe and Madbeans Wigl. So far I like this the best but I need some time to compare.

      The TV is great but I found I only used the Univibe setting so I didn't want a BB size pedal on the board when I could build a dedicated vibe in a B. So I built the Wigl. Another good one but not as shifty as The Depths.

      Need to put this on the board now and see how I get on.

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    2. The Tri-vibe has a vibrato mode and a Phaser mode a la Phase 45, which is a subtle, vibe-y phaser (mode 3, "whirl" is a blend of both). The Depths seems more like a straight univibe type circuit which will have more throb and movement than the phase mode of the tri-vibe (swirl).

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  9. About ldrs i remember pangea project, a wodoo vibe clone, using 3 5549 and one 5516. Wich ones have you used withthat one? Are they working properly? Great schem and layout by the way!

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  10. Seems like it doesn't go very slow. Kind of medium speed to fast.

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  11. I'm wondering if there's a cut beneath the LDR on row 'A' of the first layout? I'm not getting any throbbing with my build.

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  12. Has anyone succesfully built the 125B version? I built it up, but am getting no signal passing. Audio probing it, I get signal to the TL074 (pin 5), but nothing after that. The rate, intensity and voice pots all seem to work, so its just a question of why my signal is not getting through the first IC.

    Thanks

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    1. i believe ciaran verified that one. post up pictures, description of the problem, and your voltages in the debugging section of the forum.

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    2. Hi Dan!

      I'm having the same issue. When turning the effect on all the sound goes away.
      Does anyone have any idea?

      Meanwhile, it's a great site and I appreciate all the work that has been done! It's a great library here! :)
      Thanks!
      Attila

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    3. Sry , left out: I also tried the first version with two tagboards.

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  14. Built Layout 2 (onboard LFO) and verified that it's working great with no LFO ticking! Used 4x GL5539 LDRs and a 5mm water clear green LED.

    I also wired the LED indicator's + to the LFO's +, so the LED indicator now pulses with the LFO!

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    1. Hi Yonathan, how did you manage to let the indicator led pulsate with the rate? I tried connecting it to voice 3, but this resulted in an out of phase led pulsation and a big influence on the Overal effects sound creating some sort of double echo effect. Does your solution leave the sound unharmed?

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  15. Hi Jonathon Yi, how did you wire the led indicator that oscillates along with the LFO?
    Thank you

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  17. yeah I have! To me the difference is minimal, not enough to make me want to go the extra expense to use a 18v supply. I think it's great on 9v as is. Also I have tapped the minus on the LFO to a LED with the plus going to the 9volt supply. This way there was no change to the tone or settings. However, when you turn the voice down the indicator gets brighter instead of replicating the LFO when it get less bright!! Still no difference to the tonal output. Hope that helps?

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    1. Hi Bill thanks for the reply. Im kinda new to univibes so if you say the minus of the LFO Do you mean the minus of one of the four LDR's?

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  18. Great!!!
    I'll see how it goes

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  19. Sorry for late reply....no the minus side of the LFO LED, I used a 9v supply for the indicator LED with a CLR 3k3 and connected the minus side to the minus side of the pulsing led. But the brightness will work in reverse to the voice control, so maybe not a great idea!! I also used a 4558D chip instead of the TL072 and it works really well.....I think maybe my TL072's maybe fake!!!!

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    1. Figured it out almost immediately after I posted. lol.

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  21. Ok. I thought I had this all figured out, but I did not.

    I'm getting signal when the effect is on, but there is no effect. no swoosh, though I can hear the lfo clock with everything dimed. As such the LED is pulsating and reacting to Voice, Rate, and Intensity, so I'm pretty confident the LFO is functioning.
    I'm using four LDR's from tadya, which the datasheet I can find says should have 10k - 500k range, though when I measure with my multi they are more like 20-30k to 1m or more. Not quite sure I'm getting accurate readings tho.
    Should I just get some GL5539's? I feel like I should be getting some kind of effect in this range, even if its not accurate to the original.
    So here are my IC voltages. source is reading around 9.4
    TL074
    p1:4.7
    p2:4.7
    p3:4.6
    p4:9.4
    p5:4
    p6:4.7
    p7:4.7
    p8:4.7
    p9:4.7
    p10:4.7
    p11:0
    p12:4.7
    p13:4.7
    p14:8.7

    TL072
    p1:0.7
    p2:0.6
    p3:4.7
    p4:0
    p5:4.7
    p6:2.8
    p7:0.6
    p8:9.4
    As I said, the LFO seems to be working correctly, but here are the voltages regardless.
    Q1
    C: 3-4v swing
    B:0.5
    E:0
    Q2 (yes I accounted for orientation)
    C:2-3v swing
    B:0.7
    E:0.1

    I've done my normal debugging routine, and I haven't missed any cuts or links that I can see, everything seems to be in the right place, but links to pics just in case. http://imgur.com/a/aHEDI

    any help is appreciated, I'd really rather not have to rebuild this bad boy.
    thanks

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  22. P14 on the TL074 seems very high. Check for a short there.

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    1. Found it! up and running now, and boy does it sound cool. Thanks Mr. Grim, I really appreciate the help.

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    2. Happy to help! I too received a lot of help here over the years, time to give back :)

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  23. is there a vibrato or tremolo mod that i could do?

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  25. When running the effect on 18V and with high intensity, I get a clear LFO tick. When I switch back to 9V it disappears. Also when I roll back intensity and/or voice when using 18v makes it also almost disappear (but not 100%).
    Any thoughts? The original is also able to run on 18V, hence the question.
    PS I use a switchable chargepump (9v/18v) with a LT1054.

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  26. I've tried layout 2 and for some reason the bulb only powers on when i connect 'c' to a power rail taking the voice pot out of the equasion. Sooo confused. Can anyone help?...

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    1. Start by triple checking for shorts and reflowing your soldering. By C you mean the collector of the MPSA18? Did you also check that you got the orientation of the LED correct?

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  27. I have never used LDR's before. I assume there is no + or - ? Was planning on using a 5mm clear LED. Also wondering if the LDR "grills" needs to be oriented facing the LED or if facing up will suffice? Any need for a reflective surface inside the box?

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    1. A LDR has no + or -, it is just a light dependent resistor :)
      I have tested this one with all kinds of LED (transparant, diffuse, red, green, yellow and blue) and personally find the combo of diffuse yellow with 4x GL-5549 the best.
      For this build you can best position the LDR facing the LED and put it close to the LED. There is no need for a reflecting cap. The original also does not have a reflecting cap.

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  28. any video of a working build ?

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    1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-PI_LXJ36w

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  29. Does anyone else think the throb control is a bit weak??? I am really struggling to hear what it does, and i can't see any changes with the led. For a while i was thinking it was my build and that maybe it was a faulty pot or something but after watching some demos for reference I still can't hear it doing anything. Any of you guys had this issue. I haven't bothered matching my ldrs as it sounds pretty damn good and true to the demos, beats my madbean univibe build.

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    1. I can't say I hear a difference yet. I never match my ldr's on these circuits and they don't sound anything less than anyone else's I've heard but that's just me.

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  30. So I've been working on this pedal (The first design with the offboard LED circuit) for a little bit and can't quite get it to work. I have signal passing through from input to output, but the signal isn't being effected by the LED pulses. The LED circuit seems to work fine (Yellow diffuse LED with GL5539s) since the LED rate and intensity changes with the pots, and I can hear a white noise pulsing with the LED using audio probing. I can't seem to find where the input signal gets lost through the effect circuit. Here are my voltages to ground:

    IC1 (Top):
    P1 = 4.4
    P2 = 4.4
    P3 = 3.9
    P4 = 0
    P5 = 4.2
    P6 = 4.3
    P7 = 3.3
    P8 = 8.9

    IC2 (Left):
    P1 = 7.6
    P2 = 6.0
    P3 = 4.4
    P4 = 0
    P5 = 4.4
    P6 = 4.7
    P7 = 1.3
    P8 = 8.9

    IC3 (Right):
    P1 = 1.5
    P2 = 4.5
    P3 = 4.4
    P4 = 0
    P5 = 4.4
    P6 = 4.4
    P7 = 7.5
    P8 = 8.9

    Q1 (Top): Varies with LED Intensity
    C = 1.0 - 6.7
    B = 0.7 - 3.1
    E = 0.1 - 2.4

    Q2 (Bottom):
    C = varied too much to measure
    B = 0.6
    E = 0

    D1 (LED): works fine

    D2 (1n5817):
    Anode = 9.2
    Cathode = 8.9

    Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm considering just replacing the bottom two ICs and the MPSA18s, but was hoping y'all might have a more precise fix. Thanks!

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  31. Completed the layout with o/board LFO, works like a charm, almost. I used GL5549 LDRs and a white diffused LED. However, I strongly suggest adding an offset control as per JC Maillet's instructions for his univibe build, also found in the Harbinger One build. I had a problem with LED stop oscillating when intensity, voice and rate were down low, and then would only start up slowly after cranking the said controls all the way back up, if I didn't it would sit frozen. Also the LED was still fairly bright in it's 'off' position so the depth of the vibe was a bit shallow. I built a few Harbinger One pedals (vero and pcb) last year and remembered the offset control, and it's a similar circuit so I just spliced it in. That solved both problems, LFO doesn't freeze and works smoothly, the depth of vibe can be adjusted now to your taste. I believe the gain trimmer in the univibe clones works similar to the Voice control on the Depths. Works mint! I used GL5549s in a univibe build and they worked really well so i used them in this. Also I would use either yellow or white diffused leds, more predictable performance, the only thing that I believe that matters is how bright and how dark they become and being able to control those 2 things which you can with Voice and offset control. Offset trimmer works best for me at about 1 o'clock. The other being the properties of the LDR's. I was going to try GL55339s and GL5528s but it works so well I can't be bothered, I'll just build another one. I boxed this in a 125B. I am not an expert in this field but I like to have a go and fix things if I can, so thanks Zach for this layout and all the other experts upon whose shoulders I am always standing.
    I have attached some pics of the build and layout for adding the offset mod. Refer to Madbean Harbinger One layout and JC Maillet's Univibe instructions for offset control information and schematic.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/kzqrt2q4akdok6k/Depths%20Gutshot.JPG?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/iknpsx5u83cj4j6/Depths%201.JPG?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/bmbfssbg09wiolc/Depths%202.JPG?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/i6siegpuoalcmgt/Depths%203.JPG?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/l7yv1cqu20ohtx9/Depths%20Offset%20Mod%20Guide.jpg?dl=0

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