Friday, 5 February 2016

Madbean Gravity Wave (Earthquaker Devices Sea Machine)

Madbean's great new project based on Earthquaker Devices Sea Machine.
Original infos available here.
17/07/2016 Layout updated!
Changed 33n cap to 3n3 and 10k resistor from PT2399's pin 14 back to 1K.


66 comments:

  1. I put this one together. I am getting crazy oscillation and feedback. We need to double check the layout.

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    1. Have you already built this layout?
      That would be very quick.
      The 2 rows link next to LM324 pin 7 needs to go up one row (between 6 & 7).
      Already changed that.

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    2. Hell yes. Can't wait to build this. Thanks buddy!

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    3. Now it sounds like a modular synth. Clicking and popping to the rate of the lfo with some space sounds mixed in as I twist the other pots. No dry signal passes. Just crazy loud bleeps.

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    4. Have you swapped out the PT2399?

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  2. Layout is correct.
    There is either a problem with your build or the schematic.
    Have you double checked everything?
    What voltages do you have?

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  3. No, I haven't.
    Unfortunately I won't be able to build anything for a few weeks.

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  4. I built a second board. This time it is working normally except for the Dimension pot. If I turn that past about 10% it starts motorboating. The pedal sounds good otherwise and I may just run the Dimension 2 wire to ground to take that pot out of the picture, but maybe you guys can figure out a solution. Can you post the link to the schematic?

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    1. http://www.madbeanpedals.com/EP/schematics/GravityWave.gif

      i've also checked the layout and i'm 99% sure it's OK.

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    2. i have the same problem at DIM pot... this schematic maybe had wrong

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    3. now that we have a second one, i guess it's the schem...too bad...

      mmm...after all Brian wrote:
      "Important Note: These projects are generally unverified. Some are based on previously available projects at madbeanpedals and some are completely new and have never been built. Keep this in mind before you decide to build them; there is no garuantee that they will work. When projects are verified by builders, I will update their status.

      i think you guys should sent him a link of this post, for him to know that there is a problem

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    5. that's great info Ciaran!

      i hope onthetundra or Chris will read this and try those changes and post their results.

      i'll try this build myself too, but it will take some time cause i have so many things on my list!!!
      i'm working on a diy cnc machine right now!!

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    6. I'm now confused.
      Selfdestroyer has verified the schematic on Madbean's forum.
      Didn't mention anything about any Dim pot problems.
      http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=21888.msg215363;boardseen#new
      Do you have the same voltages?

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  5. Yea it looks good. I wonder why the dimesion pot is acting up?

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  6. Built mine up and it worked first time... except for the dim pot. Exactly the same problem, past about 10o'clock it just whines and self oscillates. Looks like ciaran was bang on though, 10k and a 1uf from the dim 3 to pin 6 of the bottom right tl072 and there's a lot more play in the dim pot. Still oscillates past noon but it's a start, it needs a more involved fix than I have time for tonight, hopefully someone else can run with it.

    Layout is bang on to the schem, it looks like the schem is wrong, or at least incomplete.

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  7. Dim pot seriously needs sorting otherwise brilliant

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  8. I found that using a 50k lin pot with a 18K resistor in place of the 8.2K on lug 2 as Ciaran has already mentioned greatly improves the Dim control and the reverb increases. Even with this mod if you go past 80% on the Dim pot you get loud whining so it would be nice to get rid of it altogether....any other suggestions?

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  9. I've been reading Madbeampedals forum and some are having the same problem and some say it's verified???? This needs a definite fix . I would really like to get this one nailed as it is such a good chorus otherwise..so any help would be greatly appreciated?

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    2. Hi Ciaran, I will try tomorrow and report back... many thanks

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  11. All mods done, 10k>1uf pin 2 opamp to Dim 3 row plus 5k Dim pot changed to 50K pot but I had to use a 120k resistor in place of the 8k2 to make the Dim work properly. Now the dim pot has no whining or motor boating and gives slight reverb and slapback as I believe it should. Great pedal, very pleased...thanks to you Ciaran.

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    2. I try to make this chenges to (except 100k resistor in place of the 8k2), but it not work properly. Dim pot not work - no chenges in sound... No more reverb. May be another way to solve the problem of DIM pot?

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    3. Have you tried just increasing the value of the 1K resistor from PT2399's pin 14?
      Maybe to 10K?

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    4. Maxim, you may have some other issue with your board. I just build one with 10K from IC pin2 to Dim 3 row, dim pot as 50K and 120K in place of 8K2. Works and is almost ok. The Dim seems to act as a feedback.

      I think Depth is in reverse. And B1M gave me way better LFO speed control than C1M.

      So yes. The schematic has an issue that needs to be addressed, before it (and this layout) can be called verified. Layout itself is true work of beauty, as Alex's work tends to be.
      +m

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    5. Thanks Miro!
      Hopefully the problem will get sorted out.

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  12. Wow. Lot's of DIM driven issues. Is this really verified? I want to build it but don't have the mental juice to modify anything. I understand "solder ,a, to ,b," etc....can I trust the pix as posted above?

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  13. After talking with Brian I decided to replace all the changes I made 50k back to 5k pot, 120k to 8k2 R10 and removed the link 10k resistor and 1uf pot.. Curiosity got the better of me!!!

    So back to square 1 and the whining is back as it was to begin with. I then changed the 1k R9 to a 10K and the whining stopped but the reverb was weak so I also changed the 33K R7/8 resistors to 10k each and that seemed to increased the reverb. I think now it is exactly the same as the video demo. So with these changes I'd consider this Verified!

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    1. I will try it today, thanks for advice, Bill.

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    2. Great Bill!
      Scruffie from Madbean's forum has suggested that just reducing the 330n cap to 33n would have the same effect without having to change the resistors values.
      If anyone wants to try that first and report the results, that would be great! I'll update the layout then.

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  14. I've now boxed it and am a happy bunny!

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  15. Hmmm that makes a lot of sense!

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  16. Ok I put it all but again! Changed the 330n cap to 33n but it still whines BUT put the 10K resistor back on R9 and it works I think even better.

    So to recap change R9 to 10k and the 330n cap to 33n leave everything else as is and it really works well.

    I'll rebox it now unless.........

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  17. Thinking about just take the 0 from the C9 and put it on R9!!

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    1. Second everything discussed above. Took my board and removed the extra 10K, put the 8K2 back with B5K pot, swapped the 330n to 33n and 1K to 10K. With previous fixes, this sounded like "meh". Now it sounds like "cool".

      Cheers to Bill and Alex. And to Brian as well...
      +m

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  18. Again I humbly ask. If I build this as shown on the above layout is it going to work....if I don't F$%K it up!

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  19. Hi Jeff.
    Go for it.
    Different people built it and it seems to work as it should.

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  20. Comments deleted to avoid confusion. Cheers lads

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  21. hi guys, thx for the lovely layout!
    I made this one yesterday.
    it works fine except for the Rate knob.
    the minimum Rate level is bit faster than the Original Sea machine's minimum speed on youtube.
    when I turn up the knob fully, it sounds like a machine gun :S
    does your Gravity wave work like that?
    I can use it only half way up so if there is good suggestion, plz!

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  22. Someone on the Madbean forum brought that point up and apparently you can use a 1uf Non Polarised cap for C20....that should solve your problem

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  23. Okay, I changed C20 to 4.7uF then satisfied.
    thx guys!
    https://youtu.be/Dy4q9Sd-29k

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  25. Well done..... I used a 4.7uf + side to pin 12 of LM324 much better thanks Sho

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  26. I built one, work fine but for dim pot don't work like that dim of youtube sea machine... expression of sea machine pot (dim) is more expresionly!

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    1. hello guys... I found the solution. change 33nf cap (madbean schematic, name=C9) to 3.3nf and rechange resistor 10k (madbean schematic, name=R9) to 1k. older i have the original sea machine pedal and take more photos and i sea that is cap (C9) is 3,3nf.... The dim pot responds perfect with 3.3nf and 1k . check it!

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    2. Thanks Chris (and Jim)!
      Layout updated.

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  27. Just built mine using the layout provided and then with Chris Ver's tweaks... definitely much better. I used a 4.7nf in place on the 3.3nf but the dimension pot in very usable now.

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  28. I changed C9 to 3.3nf and R9 to 1k.
    also C4 to 4.7uf.
    now it works quite perfect :DDD
    https://youtu.be/wM8ZjZHszbA

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    1. Im getting low voltages on pin 13 and 14 of IC2 and no effect with the dimm pot, i see you changed the cap connected to those pins, can i use electrolytic and if i can whats the orientation?

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  29. I used a 4.7uf + side to pin 12 of LM324....does that help?

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  30. Hey guys, I would like to ask for some help.

    I built the updated layout, but I can only hear the clean guitar signal coming through it.
    The rate LED works as expected, when I use the pots (rate is changing, shape is changing - rate led looking good). I triple checked the components, and checked the cuts twice, so far I haven't found a short. There must be something else, but I couldn't find it.

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    1. oh and I wanted to mention, that I had only some 78L05 around, so I used one instead of the 7805, but this shouldn't be a problem I think.

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    2. Nevermind! I totally missed the triple link on the left. Works like a charm, awesome pedal! I cannot thank you enough.

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  31. Where does the other end of the LED connect to? I've seen the LED+ on several layouts now and it confuses me.

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    1. The LED+ on Layouts goes to the Anode(long leg)on the led, and the Cathode (short leg) goes to the ground row on your switch.

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  32. What are the blue dots on the leader line under the LM324 and on the lead on the LH side of the 2399 represent? Haven't seen that before.

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  33. Replies
    1. Hmm. Double links? Not sure if I understand what that means exactly.

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    2. A double link means that you'll have 2 links in 1 hole. So for instance if you look at the board under the lm324 you have a link that spans from pin 12 to pin 10, then another one from pin 1 to just under the ic.

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