Sunday, 31 March 2013

Casper Electronics Echobender

Something weird to do with your extra PT2399s. From Casper Electronics :

The Echo Bender is a mix of multi FX pedal and noise maker.
It can process external signals like guitars, keyboards, mics and drum machines or it can create complex sounds on its own.

It can function in several different stand alone modes: 
-Warm analog sounding echo.
-Highly adjustable distortion.
-Ring mod style feedback.
-Complex noise generator.
-These modes can be used on their own or it can all be mixed together to achieve effects ranging from melodic and dreamy to chaotic and screamy.

The noise generating capabilities are especially interesting. The echo rate range has been set much lower than the standard echo pedal. When the rate is turned WAY down, the sound breaks up into blipping squeals and screeches. Combine this with distortion and feedback tones and a reverse decay setting and you’ve got a lot of variety and tonal complexity.

Video demos and additional information on the Casper Electronics site.



65 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. I thought you didn't like noise circuits :P
      +m

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    2. Shit I thought it was an overdrive. Not interested now :o)

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  2. Have to build this monster! Tomorrow will purchase some cap values that I lack, and put hands on it.

    This one seems built on purpose for Milkit's enclosures!

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  3. Hi,
    Thanks for another great layout!
    Looking at the schematics, isn't Dry 1 supposed to be connected to ground?

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    Replies
    1. Keen eye! I've changed the way i placed the 1M resistor, and left the Dry 1 accidentally behind a cut.. I'll fix it right away...
      +m

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    2. Fixed. It may be an ugly fix, but that should do it :)

      Thanks Alex!
      +m

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  4. I'm glad I could help.
    There's also a cut missing after the Feedback 3 - 100R resistor connection.

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  5. Well, board finished. Finally I had exactly 3x 82nf caps and some 27nF ones that I didn't remember.

    This board is a real pain in the ass, there's no place for the electrolithics, but I managed to fit'em.

    Tomorrow I'll wire the pots (another PITA I'm afraid) and we'll see if it works!

    http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/408026_10200166091747551_1459405442_n.jpg

    BR

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  6. OMFG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Noise, delay, more noise, distortion....this effect is pure MADNESS.

    Don't really know if it works 100% as it should, because with noise effects you can't never be sure, but it really works.

    Signal is processed, distorted, delayed, set into a wall of noise in a very similar way to the Casper's web demos, all pots interact with the sound you get, so I'd say you can tag it.

    I'm really loving this effect, I wanted something like days from long long time ago.

    Gettin' Nine Inch Nails sounds with a Les Paul? Yeah!

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    Replies
    1. Great! Thanks Javi! I was beginning to wonder if i got any of the current batch correct.. So this helps my day a lot. Thanks!
      +m

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    2. Hi Miro,

      We have a "problem" :P

      The fact is that on "dirty" way it works fine, but when looking for clean sounds (yes, this pedal is capable of clean sounds too :P) and so you have to set the Feddback konb full CCW.... the sound vanishes, so I'm afraid that there's some minor problem in the layout.

      I have cut the Feddback 1 wire from the Wet1 lug, son now the feedback is working as a variable resistor. Now I have clean sounds if I wish, dirty ones and mixed ones.

      So maybe you want to take a look to the schematic, as something is not correct in this part of the circuit.

      Les us know!

      BR

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    3. Problem solved, been checking the schematics and it's just a slight mislabeled pot:

      Feeback 2 and Feedback 3 should be swapped, and works just fine :)

      BR

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    4. Tomorrow i'll try this effect with the valve amp at high volume, but what i'm hearing with headphones is driving me crazy.

      Delay + Distor + Ring mod + Noise generator, would only need a fuzz part to be perfect.

      Maybe the effect that has amazed me the most in years!

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    5. Taking a deeper look, it seems that you have used the published schematic on Casper's web:

      http://casperelectronics.com/images/finishedpieces/echo/V2/Echobender_v_02.jpg

      And the Feedback pot wiring is correct according to this schematic, but i did find this one:

      http://cdn.makezine.com/make/blogs/blog.makezine.com/upload/2009/10/build_an_experimental_echo_pedal/Echobenderrev02.jpg

      where the Feddback lugs 2 and 3 are swapped.

      The fact is that if you wire the pot as published on the first schematics and set to 0 the Feedback knob, you kill the signal, so no clean / pure delay sounds. I think that the correct way is to wire it as showed on second schematics.

      Will have to try a B1M knob on Coarse knob too to see how it works.

      BR

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    6. Swapped the labels. Thanks.
      +m

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  7. In Javi's schematics C1 is 47uF, R5(330K) and R19(4.7K) are no longer there.
    What would that change? Which one is correct?
    Thanks

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    Replies
    1. Would have to ask from Caspor. He's still having the layout i drew on his site - and both different versions are marked as 02.
      +m

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    2. Don't really know, but C1 is the filtering cap of the 9v rail, so no big problem

      R5 and R19 being the ones driving current to the opamp are more important, of course. Mainly R5 (330K), R19 is very low value so I think is of less importance. We have too the Coarse pot that is B1M instead of B500K

      Taking into account that Miro's layout is based on the schematics published on Casper's site and works like a charm just swappin' two wires of the feedback pot, would bouild this very layout. To try the 2nd schematics you only need to replace both resistors with junpers.

      BR

      P.S. Didi i tell you that this pedal is incredible??? :P

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  8. I've also found this:

    http://makezineblog.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/echo_bender_partslist.jpg

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  9. Boxed!

    http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/485147_468261313245722_988611828_n.jpg

    BR

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    Replies
    1. Is that black/orange waterslide on white enclosure?

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    2. No, is a printed white water slide decal on a painted black enclosure :)

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  10. Miro, another detail that I've seen now. Don't you think that your layout lacks a cut under the 4,7k resistor?

    Right now Dry2 and Wet 2 have a direct bridge to Input 2 - (Pin6) of TL072 through the link you use for the 12k resistor between pins 6 and 7. This could explain the very low output that the pedal has when no feedback is engaged.

    Let us know what you think.

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  11. Hah. No. The cut is not missing. It's just 2 holes off to the right. Link is there to connect 12K from pin 6 to 7. Thanks Javi! I'll fix it asap.
    +m

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    Replies
    1. Fixed. To be honest i have no idea why it worked :) I know how that mistake is done though. When schematic is big enough, there's always need to swap component places around to make them fit. That's when it's too easy to not see one cut after a rejig.
      +m

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    2. Thanks Miro, new cut done. Increased output as supposed but the pedal works as previous.

      I noticed that the volume with just the delay engaged was very low (under unity), while when you trigger the distortion, the output gets wild and that's why I checked again the schematic.

      Anyways, the "clean" volume is still slightly under unity and when I max the Dry knob, you can hear an oscillation and the signal vanishes and you get no sound, so I'm afraid that this pot is not working well and should change it.

      BR

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    3. Great :) Dry por was a bit dodgy.

      I don't tet Tayda pots from long ago because usually are very accurate, about 5% tolerance, but this one was just 82k on my dmm.

      Replaced it with a new one (measured 99'2K): sound cut when turn fully CW solved and clean volume at unity gain with Dry and Wet knobs set a 12 o'clock.

      So finally built, verified and so on :P

      BR.

      P.S. Don't forget if you built the first layout that you have to bridge the former cut.

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  12. Replies
    1. I've updated the layout when Javi inoticed it.

      It's the cut next to right hand side link's bottom joint.
      +m

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  13. Im not getting any clean delay.

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  14. Just built this and it's a great little pedal. Not sure ill get to use it too much live but I'll be trying that's for sure.

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  15. I don't have any 1n5817's.... can I use anything else?

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    Replies
    1. Yes, you can even ommit it, as is used as polarity protection. A 1N400x would be fine if you want to use a diode anyway.

      BR

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  16. great! thanks javi. i have all 1n400x, which do you recommend?

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  17. I do not have any 82nf capacitors, but i have plenty of 100nf, would this be an issue to use a 100 in place of the 82?

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  18. Just built it, its amazing! I will post a video soon

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  19. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  20. Booo, all my vero from Tayda have 19 rows! Guess some lucky eBay seller is getting my business today...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Dependeing on where you live, banzaimusic has the best prices for vero in europe imo, especially if you buy larger quantitys. :)

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  21. I'm getting a POP sound when I turn it on, should it be related to the grounding?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Could be the LED. Or even more likely - the output, as there's no pulldown there. Try taking something like 220K resistor from the output strip to ground and see if that helps. If it doesn't, then snip the LED and see if that makes the pop.
      +m

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    2. Yes! That was it, i've just added a 220k and the pop is gone.
      I was thinking, how hard would be to to have the led blink according to the coarse/fine selection? is there any pin on the IC I could get this? =)
      Thank you!!!!

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  22. As i said in another post, i've been terrible posting my builds lately but here's my echobender: http://instagram.com/p/cLTiqhxWCn/

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  23. hello
    I can't find 5pF and 82nf ceramic capacitor. What can I use instead ?
    4,7pf and 100nf ceramic capacitor ?

    ReplyDelete
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    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  24. Hello, i have a noob question, what are the red dots on a white square and what are the 3 blue dots behind the ic?.. Its my first project and im still a bit lost.. Thanks.

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    Replies
    1. Those are track cuts.
      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2012/04/vero-build-guide.html
      +m

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  25. Hi,
    mine works. Incredible sounds...

    one question please:
    Have you got a little hiss, even with no distortion and no delay?

    thanks guy

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  26. hi
    I built this effect, Casper Electronics Echobender, it works, but I have to put the volume up and attack the strings very hard to hear the effect. It me also with other effects that I built. Any idea? Is that it is possible that the output level of my guitar is too low (squier bullet strat)?

    Boris

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    Replies
    1. I believe you have some error on your builds...
      +m

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  27. This one really benefits from a momentary stomp wired to ground out Decay 2. This essentially sends the decay time to 0 and kills the effect, but leaves the settings in place once you release it. If you have the delay time set long you have to hold the stomp down for a while to clear things, but you can short press for an interesting effect too.

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  28. The first one I built didn't work and after hours of trouble shooting I couldn't find the issue. I decided to start from scratch and test everything as I put it on the board. It payed off and works great. This one is so versatile. I love it.

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  29. Ive just started this build. Any new mods? LFOs, Oscillators, ect?

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  30. Built this and it's cool, but there's not much interaction between fine and coarse in mine. Judging from the comments there should be more, but I don't know.

    The bigger issue is that if I have feedback and decay set high the circuit shorts out, and I get no wet signal for about a minute, but dry still works. After I wait about a minute, the wet kicks back on.

    Any ideas? An IC problem maybe?

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  31. like earlier posts i dont have the 27nf and am guessing like suggested i can use a near enough replacement

    i have 22nf and 47nf should i use the lower or higher

    im guessing from what i read on another post that going higher usually adds more bass which is desirable for me as its for use with a drum machine but 22nf is closer to the original mark

    what do you guys suggest?

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  32. finished mine and works i guess but at a very low volume wondering if anyone has any thought on why?

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  33. Built one, and after having some issues with it when it was done, I would suggest NOT using a 78L05. I swapped it out with a 7805 and it finally worked. The difference is 78L05 is 100 milliamps, and 7805 is 1 amp (or 1,000 mA). Delays draw a lot of current from what I've read, so it's better to be safe than sorry. Go with a regulator that has more max current than you need.

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  34. Unplayable for me, constant apocalyptic noise, I must have done something wrong....

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