Tuesday, 7 August 2012

Catalinbread Naga Viper

I like the small ones, they only take 5 minutes, and I bet it isn't much longer than that until someone verifies it! :o)

Info from Catalinbread about their original:

The Naga Viper is a booster in the grand old tradition of the Dallas Rangemaster "Treble-Booster".  The Rangemaster has been used by many influential British guitarists including Tony Iommi, Brian May, Marc Bolan, and KK Downing and Glen Tipton of Judas Priest.  These guitarists, while completely unique in their styles, share the Rangemaster secret of boosting their cranked tube amps into a juicy, harmonic-laden rock tone that always cuts through the mix.

The Naga Viper is our version of this famous circuit and it enhances the classic circuit with the addition of two extra controls - Range and Heat.  The original Rangemaster had just one control - Boost.  The Range knob is a continuous control allows you to go from classic treble-boost to a full-range boost and anywhere in-between.  The original could only function as a "treble-booster".  The Heat knob gives you control over the gain level, unlike the original which was fixed at maximum gain.

Why a "treble-booster"?  Well, it is not like merely turning up the treble control on an EQ pedal.  Besides enhancing treble response, it adds its own subtle harmonic distortion and gives you a lot of "push" to really saturate the front-end of your tube amp.  But remember, the Naga Viper has a Range control that allows you to dial in exactly what frequencies get boosted.

The traditional way to use a treble-booster is to plug it straight into an already cranked and overdriven tube amp like the Marshalls, Laneys, and Voxes the British guitarists used.  Since the amps were already cranked up, a full-range boost would result in a muddy sound with no definition.  That is why we want to boost "treble"!

But in this modern era of electric guitar, many guitarists use overdrive pedals that emulate the sounds of cranked big amps into their smaller combos.  The Naga Viper is carefully voiced to allow you to boost your "amp-in-the-box" pedals too to get those famous juicy, saturated sounds at "reasonable" volume levels!  In particular, the Naga Viper was made to go with our Dirty Little Secret MkII and CB30 overdrives.






138 comments:

  1. I read somewhere today, fsb I think, that this bad boy is part of the Galileo circuit, do you know if that's right mate?

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    1. Yes I think it's this and a CB30, but don't know if there are any value mods or anything so I'm waiting for a schematic.

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    2. Sweet, might just have to check this one out buddy, thanks! :0)

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  2. Any chance that 40K elec can be subbed with a 47? Every project (even the small ones) seem to have 1 weird part that I don't have. Thanks

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    1. That's what I'd use, or socket and try a 33u as well. It's exactly in between the two values so either will do the trick. I've experimented with that cap in this kind of circuit in the past and the difference between 47u and 33u wasn't massive so I suspect either will be fine.

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    2. What you do is: solder a 33uf and a 47uf cap in parallel (plus leg to plus leg, - leg to - leg)creating one 80ufcap. Do that one more time. Now you have two 80uf caps. I then hook these two 80uf caps together in series (- leg to + leg) creating one 40uf cap. I have found that if you want the sound of a certain pedal. You have to be creative with component values. Go to 'Electronics 2000' to find out about hooking components in series/parallel for specified values.




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  3. A challenge you say?

    --- 15 minutes later ---

    I think i found a mistake.. Although the schem at FSB is what it is, it seems to me like the 220K should connect 9V rail to the base and not collector.. I'll change it....

    --- two minutes later ---

    Yup. That does it. Plus Heat and Boost are in reverse. Not sure about the Range, but it does go treble boost on 0% and bass boost on 100%.. I think i'll reverse them all.

    Nice little booster this is!
    +m

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    1. Ha ha, I should have guessed really! :o) Thanks for verifying mate, layout updated.

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    2. Oh and by the way, that's 250 verified! :o)

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    3. Leave the range as it is. Heat and Boost need reversing. :)

      BTW, i used 33µ + 10µ (with both measuring under the rating) in parallel for the 40µ...

      After fixing the resistor and reversing boost/Heat, it works. And it is nice out of the box thinking in modernising the linear/hog/bird and rangemaster.

      +m

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    4. I've changed the Range pot too, purely because it's more like a conventional tone control with the bass in the CCW position.

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    5. Don't have the original so i can't say, but i figured it could be "range", like how wide frequency range it affects... :) So i left it as it was in the orginal layout.

      Huh. I did work up a bit of sweat with this one. Went throught the usual suspects to no avail, then i dug up the schem, and found the resistor..

      I was supposed to have nice quiet evening and build just one already verified board :)

      Huge Congrats for 250!!!! 50 was quite quick don't you think?! Keep em coming! Hog's foot IC! Bass Driver! More silicon FFs and Tonebenders! There are tons of schems just waiting for you!!!

      If i don't get too tired i might still do the Greer Sucker Punch tonight :)
      +m

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    6. Yes the 50 was a lot quicker than I expected, although I just added an "Unverified" tag and link over to the right so people could filter to see only the unverified layouts too. When I was doing it I noticed about 5 older layouts that I knew had been verified but not updated so I changed them which gave us an extra boost. The 200th verified layout was less than 2 months ago though so we could hit the 300 well before Christmas at that rate. It all depends if I can keep devoting the same amount of time but I reckon even if I'm really busy I could still do 10 a month so it would still be done for Christmas at the slowest rate.

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    7. That unverified tag is awesome thing! There are a couple in there that have been on my to-build folder for a while...

      I bet you can't slow it down to only 10 per month :D
      +m

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    8. a big +1 on a bass driver vero. the OKKO basstard would be a great one too. please don't leave us bass players behind ;-). and besides, bass effects usually work great on guitar too.

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  4. haha, miro! how can you even fint time to build that much?
    well, iv'e been boxing all night! fitting a deep blue delay, ts808 + split circuit in the tayda 1590BB, it's quite a challange i must say, i'll finish it tomorrow and up some pics.

    i've been looking for a treble booster but havn't decided yet but this indeed looks nice and a quick one to build, need one as a birthday present for my fionces brother :)

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    1. Well.. I'm on a vacation till next week. I'm planning to leave for summerhouse for the rest of the week tomorrow, so this day was marked as "build like a maniac" -day.. :) Tomorrow i'm going to wait for the mail and head out after that. Hope my latest musikding order gets here tomorrow. I'd really like to get that punch letter set with me as the Madamp G2 is eager to get punched lettering on it's box. Hammering in the countryside is much better than here in the city. Plus i may have to paint my "reverse mosrite" project's body again for a thicker coat :)

      +m

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  5. I just finished this. This is a cool effect. Am I limiting the range pot by using a 56k instead of the 68k it says? It was the closest thing I had. Thanks a lot for this.

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    1. The 68K and 220K creates a bias voltage at the base and so although the voltage will be slightly different in yours, I don't think it will be too far away when it comes to the final sound. If you've got a 180K resistor, swapping that for the 220K would keep the ratio the same, and so the bias voltage would be the same as well.

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  6. i've built this up last night and i've encountered some popping issue, but it slowly disappears when i pressed the switch a few times. i've already wired a 2M resistor across the input lug and ground on the switch. the only different component value i used on my build is that 40uF. i used a 47uF instead. anyone else encountered the same problem? anyway, thanks for the layout, mark. super fast build this one! ha ha!

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    1. I used the 47 as well but no popping

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    2. The popping could also be the LED, have a look at this:
      http://www.muzique.com/lab/led.htm

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    3. did you ever fix the pop? I'm using a 2.2M resistor on the circuit IN to ground with no luck - I had popping prior to installing the resistor. I used the wiring method below..

      http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/StandardWiring_MBP.pdf

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    4. I have the same issue pops first couple times it is pressed then goes away. Can anyone verify that the link Ivlark posted fixes this?

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    5. You could adding a pulldown resistor by adding something like a 1M resistor from the row the input wire connects and ground. Doing the same from the output wire to ground will add a pulldown resistor to the output. But Mamat above tried the input resistor and still experienced the popping, which suggests the popping could be coming from the LED. You can see if that is the cause by disconnecting the LED and seeing if you're still experiencing the popping. Have a look at the AMZ link above.

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    6. Thanks, I did did check out the link just wanted to see if I could get a verification before I started tearing things apart.

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    7. The manual says:

      'FootSwitch - This is just your basic true-bypass switch. You may notice it might pop a bit especially the first time you press it after plugging in. There is circuitry that will make the pop completely go away but it compromises the sound of this circuit which is a very raw circuit that relies on the interaction between it and your guitar and amp to do its magic.'

      Of course that might just be 'snake oil' (if you'll excuse the pun!).

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  7. Not bad... bit nasily and thin for me. I'm thinking the 1nf input cap could be messed with to let in more bass?

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    1. It's the 3n3 that you'd change, 5n is the traditional Rangemaster value, but can you dial it in better with the Range pot?

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    2. Ahh ok I might try swapping the 3n3, It's probably meant to be thin like Brian Mays nasal tone. but compared to my DAM Red Rooster it sounds really weak.

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  8. Succesfully built this one! Thanks for providing the vero layout!

    I do find the A500K to not really smooth out the treble to bass ranges somehow. It's too abrupt. I've seen other layouts that use a B100K pot for the caps. Any experiences/opinions about that?

    Thanks!

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    1. Another example indeed uses 4k7 and 100nf as values. Will experiment some more.

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  9. Circuit is working fine, strange thing is that my millennium bypass switch behaves strangely with this one? It switches the circuit in bypass but the led goes off and start to light again in bypass? Never seen this with other circuits?
    What might be causing this?

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    1. Ok, found out via FSB that a pull down resistor on the output was enough to fix the issue.

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  10. Another great layout. Works as a good "May" boost with the range cranked and can get a little dirty if need be. Thanks again.

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  11. http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k543/jd_roost/IMAG1192-1Small.jpg


    Next to my Hwy 89.

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  12. I have built this vero , but i would like to ask you for help. It works like it should , but boost knob makes little pop at the begginig of its way, when i move with knob ti zero volume. It works like it shoud , also makes typical noise when i moving with knob. But I think is normal. SHO also makes this noise.

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  13. I built one of these and its amazing! I used a 47uf in place of the 40uf electrolytic, 100k for range, 100n in place of the 68, 4.7n in place of the 3.3, and 68pf in place of the 47. Really nice response, and even adds just a touch of low end.

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  14. I build to layout but the range pot works in reverse. Is the original do this?

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  17. Very sloppy..(sorry) but this is with mesa gear in full "v" on the eq. It can still cut through with an amp not known for it's strong mids.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zP0u8R9d7Wg

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  18. Haven't built this yet, but I've done a bit of work to the circuit... I call it the Greasemaster.
    Change 220K to 470K, the 8K2 to a 5K trimmer, lose the 1n and 47p caps, and switch the 3n3 and 47n for 4n7 and 100n, and finally, substitute the 2N2222A for your favorite NPN germanium. I've also added a 1M anti-pop resistor. Seems like a sort of neat way to combine the input cap panning trick with a vintage germanium Rangemaster.
    Not sure if I'll build this though, I'm a bassist, so I have absolutely no use for a Rangemaster.

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  19. I've emailed you about this mate but though I'd post it here to in case anyone else would have an idea...



    I'm having a really strange issue with the Naga Viper boost. I've made two with no issues but today I'm on my third attempt with the same results.. I get a constant oscillation (signal is passing through). I thought it may be my psu so I tried it with a single adapter with voltage selector. The oscillation stops when I bring the voltage down to 4.5v?? as soon as I increase the voltage the oscillation gets deeper the higher the voltage goes. I've tried replacing the 47u with a 100u (highest value I have) and my caps are rated at 25v so I'm lost as to what is causing it. All other pedals are fine.

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    1. Have you boxed it yet or is it just the board? The reason I ask is because sometimes this just happens. Whether it's caused by characteristics of the transistor I'm not sure but it has happened a lot to me, especially in Fuzz Face type circuits. But 100% of the time when I've boxed it the oscillation goes.

      You could also try a low value base/collector resistor like 100pF, similar to what DAM do with some of their effects. People on here have mentioned that on its own curing oscillation in the past.

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    2. Just sealed the test box and no change. It remains when un plugging the guitar jack too. Strange as the previous two I made never did it and I've remade it three times today with the same outcome. Nevermind, tis a strange one... snip it and bin it! ;o)

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    3. 2N3819's work perfectly??? tried shed loads of 2N2222's and were all bad... tried loads of others too but the 2N3819's are the only ones that stay silent? Very odd but at least it works.

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    4. Ha ha, you'll have to start selling it mate. It's a JFET boost not a transistor boost so no one can say it's a rip off! :o)

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    5. ha ha ... I'll call it a 'WTF have I done' boost... In theory, should that JFET work in it?

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    6. There's no reason why not, it's just a transistor at the end of the day even if it runs on different principles, although they usually need some bias tweaking to get them to work properly.

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  20. How hard/easy is it to modify this circuit for a pnp (OC44) ?

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    1. Turn all the electrolytics around and swap the 9V and ground wires so you have positive to ground. You may have to tweak resistor values to get the germanium transistor to bias properly.

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    2. That was my guess but thought I'd ask anyway, thanks :)

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  21. Just finished this one. Very little gain at first. measured the 10k pot at 8.9k, added a 1k resistor in series to the 9v rail which did the trick . . very nice little booster :) . . bytheway I used same comp. sizes as Mike Joyce: "used a 47uf in place of the 40uf electrolytic, 100k for range, 100n in place of the 68, 4.7n in place of the 3.3,"

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  22. I was thinking about building this and I saw that oc45 was a widely used tranny in rangemaster things. But when I looked at 2n2222a it said npn? Would the pnp oc45 work? Or did I look at the wrong 2n222a?

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  23. my bad the one I was looking at was called pn2222a. another thing I was looking at ceramic caps. And one group was called 0805 and the other one 1205 or something what's the differece?

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  24. Those are surface mount size groups . . I think you mean 1206, that being the bigger one http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:SMT_sizes,_based_on_original_by_Zureks.svg&page=1

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  25. I found that out after a while... But I still don't get the whole npn, pnp thing. Say I flipped the caps and 9v and ground. Then I understand I can use a pnp oc45.

    But how would that work., Can I daisy chain or do I need isolated PSU?
    I mean aren't the red rooster pnp? And You'd think any pedal bought from the big companys should be able to be daisy chained or whatever?

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  26. I just did this one. They sent me the wrong pot so I had to use a 100k lin with a 10k resistor between 1 and 3. instead of 10k for boost.

    Two things: When I turn up the range I get a huge volume drop.
    And max boost is actually lower than the amp volume I'm telling myself it's the 100kpots fault...

    any thoughts?

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    1. Well the Range pot should pan from one input cap to the other to change the overall tone, so if you're getting a volume drop I suspect one of the caps will be faulty or you've got a bad solder joint somewhere. Reflow the solder to make sure that the joints are good andmake sure there are no unwanted bridges. Likewise with the Boost pot. This should have plenty of boost so there is either a faulty component somewhere or the soldering needs attention.

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  27. I just built one and I'm having some problems... I'm getting some pretty massive boost and a good drive style desperation but there is a problem is buzz/hum weirdness.

    It seems the buzz interacts with both the boost and heat. As I turn the boost down the hum goes comletely away... until the last bit of turning it down where it comes completely back.

    Heat seems to also make the hum go away as I turn it down.

    I don't seem to have any cold joints so I'm at a loss...

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  28. Hello .
    Many thanks for this Veroboard and comments.
    I intend to build this as my first pedal.

    I want to be sure that I will order the right components (from france)
    Could you please gives me some details on what to order, especially the capacitors. I think that the 40u and 47u have to be polarized type, but I am not sure for voltage (16V, 35V, ????)

    Many thanks in advance for your help

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    1. Check my component guide:
      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/p/components.html

      Generally everything in 16V and up is ok. You might want to check the selection at taydaelectronics.com :)
      +m

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    2. Many thanks.
      I have read the guide and it is clearer for me. I am a total beginner, and it is not easy for me to choose the components. I hope it will come with practising !

      would you (or someone else) be kind enough to control my component list for this pedal at Taydaelectronics before I put an order ?
      (May I further make a suggestion : Why not put a "standard" list of components with the Veroboard. It will be a great help for beginners, and will give an idea of the component price for the pedal)

      R1 / 8K2 / A-2337
      R2 / 68K / A-2334
      R3 / 220K / A-2339
      R4 / 2K2 / A-2341 (for led)
      C1 / 47p / A-527
      C2 / 3n3 / A-414
      C3 / 68n / A-707
      C4 / 1n / A-557
      C5 / 10n / A-559
      C6 / 40u / same as C7 ? / A-4518
      C7 / 47u / A-4518
      Q1 / 2N222A / A-113
      Range / 500K Log / A-1914
      Heat / 1K lin / A-1962
      Boost / 10K lin / A-1961
      Input Jack / A-4556 (or need a stereo one ?)
      Output Jack / A-4556
      Led 5mm / A-407
      Led holder / A-660
      Switch 3PDT / A-331
      Alim 9V DC / A-2237
      9V battery clip / A-656
      Enclosure 1590B / A-5158 (link for pre drileld enclosures ??)
      Veroboard / A-5031


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    3. 47µ is ok for 40µ.

      Input jack needs to be stereo, if you want to use both battery snap and dc jack. Tayda jacks aren't the best, but they are usable. Their tip is a little too short, so you can get tip of the plug unconnected is you push the plug too far. Otherwise those are nice build quality.

      You could check musikding.de for predrilled boxes. And they have Neautrik/Rean jacks for reasonable prices too. Those are really nice.

      Making a detailed list of components is a bit redundant, as most of the builders hoard components as bigger batches from ebay and have their own preferences what they want to use. After you've built two or three you have basic touch of what you want to use too...

      I'd suggest you get at lest 10 or 20 of each component, as you're going to need them eventually :)
      +m

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    4. Hello.
      One last question.
      What kind of wire is recommended ? Solid core wire, standard wire ? 0.5mm / 0.2 mm2 cross section ?? or bigger?

      I think that I will finally order everything at Banzaimusic, included some basic tools I need to begin (solder iron, desoldering pump, ...).
      I am a little afraid about what I have read about toll taxes, DHL costs .... For a first try, I will stay "conservative"

      Tahnks in advance for your answering regarding wire.

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    5. I'm using 0,14 wire that i bought from banzai in 100m rolls for basic builds. For "better" ones, i have 0,25 wire - and for supermojokillyouall wire i have solid core that is pretty close to 0,25.

      So you can't go wrong in any way. 0,14 is good enough and that's cheap. You could check out these:
      http://www.banzaimusic.com/Wire-Value-Pack-LY14-MULTICOLOR.html
      http://www.banzaimusic.com/Wire-Value-Pack-VP25-MULTICOLOR.html
      http://www.banzaimusic.com/Wire-Value-Pack-SC-MULTICOLOR.html
      Good bang for a buck.

      ...or. If you're planning on build just one or two (believe me, it won't stay that way), banzai and musikding have kits with all the stuff needed for boxing:
      http://www.banzaimusic.com/Effects-Pedal-Set-Low-Cost-SKU28646.html
      +m

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    6. Many thanks !
      I will order that !

      I must admit that if I am able to build this one properly, I will for sure build some other pedals.
      Galileo would be on the list, so as SD1, Tube screamer, ...
      Stuff for U2 music :))

      Let's see first this "simple one". I have first to learn many technics, and it will be a perfect exercice.

      (May I ask an SDD3000 / SDD3KP Veroboard layout ?? :)) )

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    7. I assume you mean the SDD preamp? If so then yes I've already got that in my list to do

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    8. Yes, The preamp, something like SDD-3KP from Trabant
      Very important piece of gear to have for imitate the sound of The Edge !

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  29. I built this and originally it sounded pretty good and worked great! I just boxed it today and unfortunately now it seems to be sounding different. It was a while ago when I first played it so I'm not quite sure if it's "just me". But the "heat" pot is acting more like a volume knob- i seem to remember the heat knob having the capability to provide the circuit with quite a bit of it's own distortion like you could use it as an overdrive pedal on its own. now, when I turn up the heat knob it mostly just increases volume rather getting more distorted. In fact it only has the very slightest bit of clipping. I tried some different 2n222's but all of mine are unde 200hfe.

    I cant seem to find a demo of someone just boosting a low volume clean amp (so I can hear just how the pedal sounds on its own without hitting cranked amp) So do you guys think it's functioning correctly (and my memory is serving me wrong) or does this thing clip (distort) a good amount when you crank up the heat knob (as in distort on its own rather than distort by getting louder and hitting your amp with a hotter signal to distort more)[

    thanks!!!

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  30. Hey guys,

    This was my first build from this page. After three shots at soldering and hooking up everything as cleanly as possible, I have a finished product that is fairly quiet and operational. That said, I am getting limited functionality from the pedal; the volume does cut the signal but doesn't really boost much, the gain is so minimal, it doesn't add much at all to the amps gain. The tone is the most useful part and does shape the sound a bit, but the pedal does not create any of that gain-y fuzz-y goodness you see in the video.
    Do you guys think this could be a crummy transistor? I have tried three different 2n2222a's in there and the output stayed the same.

    What kind of voltage should i expect at the pins?

    Could anyone recommend any particular mods to get some more response out of this pedal? I was thinking of changing the heat pot to a 20k, but if someone could recommend swapping out some components to get more life out of this pedal?

    thanks so much in anticipation for your help.
    Cheers guys!

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    Replies
    1. have you tried flipping the transistor? could be facing the wrong way, also check the pinout of it in some datasheets! should def work better then you describe :)

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  31. Thanks so much. I have tried flipping the transistor and checking if I have the one way caps in the wrong way. Playing around with it, I'm finding the heat knob does very very little. Could someone post aguy soot of their completed pedal? That would be super useful for me.
    Am I right in thinking that the heat pot is wired so it's just a variable resistor so even it was wired in the wrong way it would still function alright? Thanks guys

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  32. Hello .
    I have completed my first pedal, and it works !!!
    I am very happy.

    (The led doesn't works, but all the rest works perfectly. Any idea ??)

    Thanks a lot at all of you for your help.
    pictures available, if i know where to post them. My enclosure is etched, which was not easy at first try, but it looks pretty cool !

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    Replies
    1. Gratz for your first build :)

      The led issue should be a wiring problem, just check connections, resistor and solder:

      1 4 7
      2 5 8
      3 6 9

      If you are using the right pole for example (7-8-9):

      7 -> Wire from - Led
      8 -> Wire from any ground
      9 -> Wired to 1 (but not mandatory)

      Then wire from +Led to a 2k resistor and finally to +9volts.

      Very simple, but it's always a rush in first builds.

      Take it easy and gratz again.

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    2. Make sure you have the LED orientation correct. Longer leg is +.
      +m

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    3. corrected !
      It was the led orientation. Newbie mistake :)))

      Otherwise, once again many thanks for your advices.
      The pedal sounds and look very nice. I love it. It boosts perfectly my AC30 (liverpool tech 21 clone)and my VHT special 6.

      Now, I will probably try to build myself an FA-1 (U2 fan).

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  33. What a great little Pedal!
    Sounds great with my TS808
    I really love my tone now & I've only a DD3 left on my board that i haven't made myself thanks to you guys :-)

    http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8368521070_afa02bbaf9_c.jpg

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    1. here is mine
      http://www.freeimagehosting.net/newuploads/brucw.jpg

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    2. Super! Did you use acid?
      +m

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    3. and two small samples with the pedal (two different settings ; original sound at the beginning of each samples, then with naga viper.

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    4. Yes, it was etched with ferric chlorid (PNP blue mask).
      First trial, not perfect but I am pretty satisfied with the result.

      Alu has been polished with a miracle product used also for polishing motorcycle parts.
      BELGOM ALU.
      It is possible to reach very good results with minimal work !

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  35. The link
    http://soundcloud.com/manu68-1/one-tree-hill-with-naga-viper

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  36. quick question: Is there supposed to be an always present noise floor level? Even with the boost knob off, I still have some noise that is consistent...

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    1. No.

      At least, mine as no consistent noise floor.
      The pedal becomes noisy if I set the boost+range very high. But I think this is normal.
      Otherwise, with boost knob off, I have no sound a all.
      Unity level (pedal on/off comparison) is at about 10-11 o'clock

      My pedal has also a strong "pop" when I switch the first time the pedal on. After that it disapear. It seems that it is also "normal".

      Very nice pedal !

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    2. You could solve the "pop" by adding a pulldown resistor to the output,just put it between the output lug of the foot switch and the ground lugs. I used a 1M Ohm resistor.

      Delete
    3. perhaps its my transistor? used a 2NAAA

      I used a 1M pulldown at both the In and Outputs, circuit side, to ground and have zero switch pop now.

      Delete
  37. I have the same problem as beedoola: constant noise when the pedal is on, doesn't matter where the knobs are at.

    However, when I use a battery the noise disappears.
    My other pedals don't get noisy whatsoever when I use the dc jack.

    Could it be the filter cap? What suggestions do you guys have?
    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  38. just built this one, it sounds really great! thanks for the nice clean layout. only subs were 47uf for 40 and I didn't have an A500K for range, so I used an A250k-- the range still seems quite functional with the 250. may swap it with a 500 once I have one just to hear the difference. anyone else use a different value for range?

    the controls are very interactive with one another. great stuff, thanks again.

    ReplyDelete
  39. You wouldn't think this pedal works well on bass.... but it's actually surprisingly good! I replaced the input cap blend with that of the DAM Red Rooster (4n7/2u2, 100kB pot), and it goes from a snarly boost to a farty, undefined mess with the 2.2uf input cap. The sound kind of reminds me of a Marshall Super Bass, warm and gritty. I've already got my "tube amp in a box" sound nailed (Barbershop), but for such a simple circuit, this is a really great dirty boost.

    ReplyDelete
  40. Here is my build I called ' snake bite '. http://imageshack.us/a/img716/218/29jy.jpg
    I used the 4n7 and 100n values and 47uf for both electrolytics . First 2222a sounded like crap , luckily I had a spare and now it works as it should.It'll be staying on my board for now at least .I'll be using it to push my plexi drive and ecstasy clones.

    ReplyDelete
  41. Hi, I am a newbe (so forgive my question) and I am not sure if this is something achievable with the current naga viper schematic.
    I am hunting for a Brian May kind treble-booster (usually some +30db of gain), and I crushed into the Naga Viper which intrigued me a lot for its versatility (eg. clean boost, full range to treble, light fuzzy tones). I didn't have the chance to personally test it yet, unfortunately.
    Now the question: as I understood, the NV reaches at max +10db. Is it possible to mod it somehow to reach the +30db area? Otherwise, as I also read that the "heat" control is quite effective, do you think that the pedal "as is" can be used for Brian May tones?
    Many thanks for your answers ;-)

    ReplyDelete
  42. So, assuming all the components are are rated at 18V or higher, this circuit should run at 18V like the original, right?

    ReplyDelete
  43. hello everybody have a couple of quick questions if anybody is up for it. My circiut have realy no boost to speak of a big volume drop and a scratchy boost knob.
    1 what are the voltage supposed to be on the jfet?
    i thougt maby i have a solder bidge or a bad joint because of the volyme drop but a cant realy find one. so maby its the jfet what do you guys think. i swaped all the el.cap still the same problem
    ok thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello everybody,
      I have the same problem as Linfroet :
      No boost and a volume drop...
      Thank you for your help.


      To linfroet : did you found a solution, or still have the problem ?

      Delete
  44. Just made this. Sounds excellent, if it's used as intended: in front of a cranked amp or overdrive
    pedal, and surrounded by drums and bass, not alone in a room. Like others I used a 33uf and a 10uf cap in parallel to replace the 40. Transistor is a metal can 2N2222A. I don't have no popping.

    ReplyDelete
  45. I just finished this one with stock values, in front of my OCD it sounds absolutely awesome !
    It will get boxed for sure :)

    ReplyDelete
  46. Hi,
    I'm stuck and can't find the solution so hope you can help me out.
    I finished the board but as soon as I plug in the guitar at the jack input, no sound. Even when it's turned off, no sound When I turn it on, nothing happens (well the LED burns, but the pots do nothing and no sound)
    Probably this is something stupid, but even after reading and trying the 'Faults' section tips, I just fail big time :)
    Any tips?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Update: I removed the ON/OFF box to see if that was the problem or the board. Well, the board is. Right now (after some flipping the 2N2222A) I get some sound but with huge hum and noise. Tips are still welcome :)

      Delete
    2. Update #2: okay, so I thought; maybe I should connect the ON/OFF switch to make the humming noise go away. And now, no sound at all. I used the Offboard guide/schematic as shown on this website. Any missing things?

      Delete
  47. Update #3: I tried the offboard wiring from http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/
    But only bypass sound and no effect sound. What am I doing wrong?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Post the voltages you're getting between the transistor pins and ground, and a close up front and back pic of the board.

      Delete
    2. Voltages:
      C: 8.82V
      B: 2.04V
      E: 0.3-1.57V

      Images will follow asap! :)

      Delete
    3. Images via dropbox (hope it works for you)
      https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2346008/Viper/IMG_5169.jpg
      https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2346008/Viper/IMG_5170.jpg
      https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2346008/Viper/IMG_5171.jpg

      Delete
    4. Hi there.
      It looks like you may have two possible solder bridges. Between rows 2 & 3 ad 5 & 6 over to the right. Have you knifed between the rows?

      Delete
    5. hey! I knifed it after the photo so those solder bridges are gone. However a humnoise is still there and the values are almost the same.
      C: 7.56V / B: 2.04V / E: 1.57V
      I'm now testing without the 3pdt/offboard wiring. The potmeters seem to work, very noisy however and there's a big hum.

      Delete
    6. any other things I could try?

      Delete
  48. The only place I have found to obtain 40uf polarized caps is this store near me in Houston - Electronic Parts Outlet on Fondren Blvd. They have 40uf polarized caps that look like tantalum for $1. No idea why they have them and no one will tell me where they come from. But they have plenty. They might ship, even though they have no online store.

    ReplyDelete
  49. Hello
    I have just finished the assembly of "naga viper".
    When I use it, I have the sound of the guitar but I also have a noise like a buzzing bee.

    I need some help !!
    Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello,

      After reading every comments, I noticed that Vince had a similar problem, a parasitic noise.
      So, I tried my assembly with a 9V battery : no parasitic noise anymore, and a pedal that functions well.
      Then, I tried with an old Boss electric power (PSA-230G), once again, the pedal was working well.

      I did this assembly in a box 1590A, I will send later a link to show a picture of it.

      I enjoy my new pedal, it sounds great !

      Thank you for all the work of creating the layout.

      Delete
  50. http://img.audiofanzine.com/image.php?lang=fr&identifier=image&size=normal&module=user&userPhoto_id=272535

    ReplyDelete
  51. Just finished this yesterday and it is one of the best boosters I've come across yet. Low noise and the tones even through a 40 year old transistor amp are pretty amazing. Going to crank through the tube amp tonight. Powered through a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 Plus.

    One of my few successes with Vero board.

    ReplyDelete
  52. On my third build and could be that I missed something. Do I need to link the pot logs (Range 2&3 or Heat 1&2) or do I need to grab a cable and take cable to both logs in the pots? Still need to do some diggin up, pedal itself is working, but no noticeable boost and the Heat doesn't do anything for the signal.

    ReplyDelete
  53. Hello!
    What other transistors could be used in place of the 2N2222A on this circuit?
    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  54. Which OD/dist-pedal works great with a Naga Viper in front. Will it work for lm386 ones like as a boost/2nd channel for a purple plexi?

    ReplyDelete
  55. Which OD/dist-pedal works great with a Naga Viper in front. Will it work for lm386 ones like as a boost/2nd channel for a purple plexi?

    ReplyDelete
  56. This is my new favorite boost. I built mine with a 2N4401. Here she is:
    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/isolditnj0125/IMG_6091.jpg

    Get it?????

    ReplyDelete
  57. What are the 3 letter semi circle diodes and why are they never referenced on the bottom? Sorry i'm new to this. See also DSG on the honeybee layout.

    ReplyDelete
  58. That is the transistor (which is 2N2222A).

    C=collector
    B=base
    E=emitter

    DSG is a FET transistor

    D=drain
    S=source
    G=gate

    ReplyDelete
  59. I made this built a couple of months ago, but I want to tweak it a little bit.
    I used a 100n vs 68n cap and a 5.6n vs 3.3 cap to make it a little less thin, but I still find it a little spikey on the right half of the turn.
    I was wondering if upgrading the 47pf cap would help polishing it a little bit.
    Cheers, Gilberto.

    ReplyDelete
  60. Partially boxed my "Naga Viper" and everything appears to be working as expected...with ONE exception: the "Heat" control seems to just add more "boost" rather than dirtying up the signal (similar to the issue splashsplish mentioned above).

    I also notice a slightly noisy jump right around the ZERO mark of the boost pot (similar to Don Cico above)...but this is a VERY minor issue that I can easily live with.

    Anyway, I used a 2N2222A as shown in the notes but, after testing, I see that it only reads 150hfe on my multi-meter...should I be looking for something with higher gain or do I need to debug further? Hopefully it's just a case of finding a happy medium between adding volume and gain with the "Heat" pot.

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Just finished "test driving" a few transistor options...including a 2N5089 measuring a whopping 460 hfe (it seemed a little "too much", sounding harsh and "clang-y" for lack of better terms). I VERY quickly settled on a P2N2222A that measured ~210 hfe as it immediately gave me that "just right" mix of "boost" and "dirt" that I was looking for.

      Delete
  61. managed to build this one at the weekend and had the pleasure of it firng up first time, boost gives a tremendous amount of extra volume, range goes from warm and fat (But not flabby) to bright and cutting (But not scratchy or shrill) and heat....well heat just seemed to be a clean pre-gain control, with only a hint of grit when maxed out and using high output pickups. I've had a really close look at the build for any faults or wrong componets, double checked solder joints and tried substituting transistors and pot values. The results were as expected higher hfe gave a little bit more break up, lower hfe just stayed clean, and that was only when using a 2k heat pot......

    Am I correct in assuming that this is basically a rather powerful booster with the ability to change the tonal 'colour' Sounds prety good though, slams the front end of a driven amp pretty nicely and could be nice for adding a second voice to clean channel, maybe as a clean lift for solos?

    ReplyDelete
  62. Easy to build and a great sounding boost! This seems to work better before any distortion, while I prefer my other boosts (SHO, Baby Pink) after. However, using the Naga before certain fuzzes can seem to mess things up a bit.

    -> I've been lurking around here for quite a while, so thought I'd post a comment for a change.

    ReplyDelete
  63. Lot of talk regards to 40uf cap.
    What you do is: solder a 33uf and a 47uf cap in parallel (plus leg to plus leg, - leg to - leg)creating one 80ufcap. Do that one more time. Now you have two 80uf caps. I then hook these two 80uf caps together in series (- leg to + leg) creating one 40uf cap. I have found that if you want the sound of a certain pedal. You have to be creative with component values. Go to 'Electronics 2000' to find out about hooking components in series/parallel for specified values.

    ReplyDelete
  64. Use shrink tube to 'neetin' this 4 cap pack up a bit. Leave legs until a space is selected for the new creations place. It sound tuffer than it is.

    ReplyDelete
  65. Hey guys I'm building my first pedal when I get back home in about a week or two. I got a PCB printed for this pedal but I'm just confused as to what parts to buy, if different resistors matter, etc.

    If somebody could point me out to a part list or tell me that I can just use any resistors or whatever that would be great.

    Thanks in advance!

    ReplyDelete
  66. Hi. BUILD THIS PEDAL!! Love it.
    If I wanted to boost the lower ranges. How would I manipulate the caps.
    I am putting 2 into a 125B for high boost and low boost.
    This is the nicest littl treble/boost pedal yes.

    ReplyDelete
  67. Hi,
    I built this, but am having some problems with it. I get a volume drop when it's switched on, and no tone change. Only the boost pot seems to have any affect.
    I'm still debugging, but got the schem from the FSB website. On there, and all of the other layouts, there's a 1N4001 connected to the +9v. This isn't in this layout. Is this correct, or am I missing something?
    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 1N4001 connected to the +9V is likely polarity protection. It's not required.

      I would check for solder bridges (run an XActo knife in between the tracks) and make sure your transistor is oriented correctly and receiving power (DMM). Check the offboard wiring. and the board/pots. Check to make sure you didn't put the wrong value resistors/caps in somewhere.

      One time I had a problem with a rather expensive phaser build I did. The problem was a frayed wire touching another frayed wire that was soldered in next to it. That's another thing you want to check.

      All else fails, audio probe it. You can make one with a few alligator clips, your guitar cable, and a 10nf (or close to) cap. Videos on youtube on how to do it.

      Delete
    2. Thanks for the tips. I spent a little time with it last night and (think) and found a few bugs, but it's still not working correctly. I'll have another bash at it over the weekend.

      Delete