Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
frank johannes8 February 2018 at 12:37 I agree ! ... goes very well with humbuckers ( I played it with a MelodyMaker with one Burstbucker Pro on Bridge ) ... even like it more than my OCD ... verified and recommended for Marshall-type sounds.
... with a Strat I‘d recommend to put a booster in front ...
I tried this as my first stripboard project. I've been skeptical in the past, but after giving it a shot I have to admit that it was pretty easy. I'll definitely be doing some more vero pedals.
Thanks for all of the amazing layouts posted here!
I got the hissing and squealing with the LM386N-1. Ordered a LM386N-3 and a NJM386D. They both solved the problem. A little more clarity with the NJM386D. Went with that. Sounds great with my Esquire and AC15.
It definitely sounds a bit muddy with single coil pickups. I didn't have a B50k or A250k so I have to lower an A500k and a B100k - could that be the issue? I've heard that altering potentiometer values changes the sweep a bit.
I had completed this build. All controls seem to work. However, I find the sound to be muddy and "flubby" in the low end. Is anybody else experiencing this or have tips to make it have more high end or presence?
hello captain, could you describe / explain what each of the three changes did to the sound ? ( brighter, more bass, overdrive, etc. ...) thank you. ... frank
Just recently built this. Went by the layout first, and like many others say I found it a bit muddy/dark. I then tried the three changes suggested by captainpena. First changed the 22nf to 1nf. I found this to brighten the tone up a bit as well as increase the drive and overall volume. Second I swapped the 4k7 for a 12k. I found this to "tame" things a bit. Third I swapped the 4k7 for a 56k. I found this to tame things further and bring the overall volume back down. The middle position of the tone knob is now more like the full clockwise position from before the swaps. I prefer the swapped parts that captainpena suggested for sure.
I should add that I used a A50k pot for the tone cuz thats all I had. Also I only had a A500k pot for the drive, so I put a 510k resistor from lug 1 to lug 3 to make a 250k.
Hey! So I chose this for my first vero project and I'm a bit confused about the input and output. I get which lugs they go on the pots, but are they wired to the board or straight to the switch? Thanks
Hi, everyone. New to this vero board building. I have built the rat and works good. now on too this one. bypass works as it should. when pedal is on weird noise from it no input sound at all. checked all solder joints. checked for jump overs on board. ic volt useing power pack output 11.30 pin 1 1.64 2 0 3 0 4 0 5 4.54 6 11.30 7 5.66 8 1.64 pin 1 is d 5 hole 4 Please help this one is driveing me nuts. Bob
The tone knob doesn't seem to do too much of anything...
I've added a switch to swap out the 22nf cap with a 4.7nf cap and I feel like that was a huge improvement in getting this pedal to be more useable. My typical clean tone on my amp is apparently not bright enough for the stock version of the circuit; switching the pedal on without compensating for treble results in a blanket over the speaker kind of sound. With the 4.7nf cap this doesn't happen though.
I will say however, the stock mode does sound pretty good if I use the bright input of my amp. Unfortunatly, I typically don't use the bright input for my base clean tone.
Like many of you I found it to be too muddy, so I did the suggested mods : Changed 22nf for 1nf (this cap appears to be 4n7 in Purple Plexi) --> OK Changed the 4k7 next to the 22nf for a 12k --> OK Changed the 4k7 next to the 330r for 56k --> This tamed things way too much for my taste (it almost cancelled the previous mods). So I put back the 4k7, but the circuit was too noisy. I added a 100 ohms in serie with the 9v, this greatly reduced the noise. I'm happy with how it souds now and will box it
Any ideas as to why I am getting very little output? I’ve checked for solder bridges, and I’ve tried 2 op amps. Using JRC386D. Not getting close to unity. Any help is greatly appreciated. Does anyone know what voltage readings should be on each pin?
I’ve built board using it update values. Have very little sound coming out. Does anyone have any ideas about why that would happen? I’ll check for solder bridges. Don’t see any. Not sure what the voltages should be for the each pin.. Does anyone know?
I just built this. Im getting signal through and can hear the od but its almost like a synth fuzz sound and when I stop playing I'm getting a loud squeal. Lm386 gets noticeably hot.
Verified
ReplyDeletesound not so bad for 15 min build :)
Thanks Alex
Thank you for verifying it!
Delete
Deletefrank johannes8 February 2018 at 12:37
I agree ! ... goes very well with humbuckers ( I played it with a MelodyMaker with one Burstbucker Pro on Bridge ) ... even like it more than my OCD ... verified and recommended for Marshall-type sounds.
... with a Strat I‘d recommend to put a booster in front ...
thank you very much Alex !
Alex, as soon as i put power plug in. I am getting a loud squeal. if i plug any pach cords in it gets worse. any ideas what i should look for.
Deleteok so now the bypass is working good . but when powerd on no sound, only hissing and squealing
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis is pretty much a slimmed down Purple Plexi. Looking forward to building it!
ReplyDeleteI tried this as my first stripboard project. I've been skeptical in the past, but after giving it a shot I have to admit that it was pretty easy. I'll definitely be doing some more vero pedals.
ReplyDeleteThanks for all of the amazing layouts posted here!
Hello
ReplyDeleteI tested the editing and I have a big hiss, I wondered if the IC is a JRC386D?
I tried a LM386 and the problem is still present.
If I cut the link of the legs of the top of the IC I no longer have whistling but more distortion either ...............
386D refers to the NJM386D JRC IC. You can also use a TI LM386N-1, according to the data sheets the LM386N-1 should be a close match to the NJM386D.
DeleteI got the hissing and squealing with the LM386N-1. Ordered a LM386N-3 and a NJM386D. They both solved the problem. A little more clarity with the NJM386D. Went with that. Sounds great with my Esquire and AC15.
DeleteHow do I get more treble from the tone pot?
ReplyDeleteThanks in advance.
It definitely sounds a bit muddy with single coil pickups. I didn't have a B50k or A250k so I have to lower an A500k and a B100k - could that be the issue? I've heard that altering potentiometer values changes the sweep a bit.
ReplyDelete*had to lower
DeleteI had completed this build. All controls seem to work.
ReplyDeleteHowever, I find the sound to be muddy and "flubby" in the low end.
Is anybody else experiencing this or have tips to make it have more high end or presence?
To echo others here I found this a bit muddy even with single coils. I messed around with a few values to make it brighter...
ReplyDeleteChanged 22nf for 1nf (this cap appears to be 4n7 in Purple Plexi)
Changed the 4k7 next to the 22nf for a 12k
Changed the 4k7 next to the 330r for 56k
hello captain,
ReplyDeletecould you describe / explain what each of the three changes did to the sound ? ( brighter, more bass, overdrive, etc. ...)
thank you. ... frank
Just recently built this. Went by the layout first, and like many others say I found it a bit muddy/dark. I then tried the three changes suggested by captainpena.
DeleteFirst changed the 22nf to 1nf. I found this to brighten the tone up a bit as well as increase the drive and overall volume.
Second I swapped the 4k7 for a 12k. I found this to "tame" things a bit.
Third I swapped the 4k7 for a 56k. I found this to tame things further and bring the overall volume back down.
The middle position of the tone knob is now more like the full clockwise position from before the swaps. I prefer the swapped parts that captainpena suggested for sure.
I should add that I used a A50k pot for the tone cuz thats all I had. Also I only had a A500k pot for the drive, so I put a 510k resistor from lug 1 to lug 3 to make a 250k.
DeleteWhat does the green dot on the jumper under the IC mean?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
-Michael
It's a double link: two links soldered to that same spot, one of them going to ground (bottom row) and the other link goes to "2" of the IC.
DeleteHey! So I chose this for my first vero project and I'm a bit confused about the input and output. I get which lugs they go on the pots, but are they wired to the board or straight to the switch? Thanks
ReplyDeleteThey are wired to the "board in" and "board out" lugs on the 3pdt footswitch. Check out the Off Board Wiring section if ya havent already.
DeleteAh good that's what I did, not getting sound though, time to troubleshoot lol
DeleteHi, everyone. New to this vero board building. I have built the rat and works good. now on too this one. bypass works as it should. when pedal is on weird noise from it no input sound at all. checked all solder joints. checked for jump overs on board. ic volt useing power pack output 11.30
ReplyDeletepin 1 1.64
2 0
3 0
4 0
5 4.54
6 11.30
7 5.66
8 1.64
pin 1 is d 5 hole 4
Please help this one is driveing me nuts.
Bob
I am having same problem. Did you solve?
DeleteCan I use the ic lm386L?
ReplyDeleteThe tone knob doesn't seem to do too much of anything...
ReplyDeleteI've added a switch to swap out the 22nf cap with a 4.7nf cap and I feel like that was a huge improvement in getting this pedal to be more useable. My typical clean tone on my amp is apparently not bright enough for the stock version of the circuit; switching the pedal on without compensating for treble results in a blanket over the speaker kind of sound. With the 4.7nf cap this doesn't happen though.
I will say however, the stock mode does sound pretty good if I use the bright input of my amp. Unfortunatly, I typically don't use the bright input for my base clean tone.
Like many of you I found it to be too muddy, so I did the suggested mods :
ReplyDeleteChanged 22nf for 1nf (this cap appears to be 4n7 in Purple Plexi) --> OK
Changed the 4k7 next to the 22nf for a 12k --> OK
Changed the 4k7 next to the 330r for 56k --> This tamed things way too much for my taste (it almost cancelled the previous mods). So I put back the 4k7, but the circuit was too noisy. I added a 100 ohms in serie with the 9v, this greatly reduced the noise. I'm happy with how it souds now and will box it
can anyone tell me how to add 100ohms in series with 9v ?? Should i keep 100ohms from 9v to gnd??
DeleteI added a 100 ohms in serie with the 9v, this greatly reduced the noise
Deletehow to do this???
Should i add 100ohms from +9v to Gnd ???
Connect your 9V wire to one end of the resistor and the other end of the resistor to the 9V connection point on the board
DeleteAny reason why the LM386 would get hot? One of my builds is getting hot and sputtering.
ReplyDeleteAny ideas as to why I am getting very little output? I’ve checked for solder bridges, and I’ve tried 2 op amps. Using JRC386D. Not getting close to unity. Any help is greatly appreciated. Does anyone know what voltage readings should be on each pin?
ReplyDeleteI’ve built board using it update values. Have very little sound coming out. Does anyone have any ideas about why that would happen? I’ll check for solder bridges. Don’t see any. Not sure what the voltages should be for the each pin.. Does anyone know?
ReplyDeleteAny ideas why I am not getting much output? Checked for bridges. Don't see any. Using correct op amp. Help is appreciated!
ReplyDeleteLM386L has identical datasheet values than LM386N-1 as I can see. Will this opamp work out? Thank you
ReplyDeleteI just built this. Im getting signal through and can hear the od but its almost like a synth fuzz sound and when I stop playing I'm getting a loud squeal. Lm386 gets noticeably hot.
ReplyDeleteLM386L works great / Verified.
ReplyDeleteAmazing sound.
IMPORTANT: LM386D / LM386L / LM386-N1 OUTPUT = 1/4 Watt
OTHER LM386 TYPES HAS MORE OUTPUT (1/2W - 1W) AND THAT´S THE REASON THEY DOESN´T WORK THAT WELL IN THIS CIRCUIT.