There's also a +9V DC schematic but it has never been verified.
You can find all the explanations in FSB and DIY
"Con" Switch added
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Amazing!!! Thank you Alex!!!
ReplyDeleteDefinitely the vero master. Nice one Alex.
ReplyDeleteholy jumpin! one day I will get here hahaa!!
ReplyDeleteCan't believe you did this one. Were you inspired by a recent posting about this things usage by The Locust?
ReplyDeleteStarted this layout a while back and completely forgot about it until Travis mentioned it in the Forum.
DeleteDo you think LM324Ns in place of LM660 would work?
ReplyDeleteNot sure you can.
ReplyDeleteI've added the original threads links from FSB and DIY with all the explanations for this project.
There's a 9V DC schematic in FSB that doesn't use an LM660 but it hasn't been verified and there are few values missing.
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DeleteHoly crap, awesome
ReplyDeletewhere to buy such a large veroboard?
ReplyDeleteebay
DeleteI built it one year ago with DIY schematic. It´s really a cool effect, maybe not so easy to use in band context. Below are two examples but the Schumann PLL can do much more. Can spend hours on this effect, very cool. Go for it :-)
ReplyDeletehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTjx3ESDeSI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9dxsADu9e8
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ReplyDeleteWow, nice job Alex, really impressive, I might wait a long time to get those parts all together but was wondering one little thang: What do you mean with C1 & C2 - 10uF "B.P" ? I've checked on eBay, only found couple of "audio electrolytic" green caps.
ReplyDeleteCheers & Keep up the trumendous work.
C.
Thanks Chris!
ReplyDeleteC1 and C2 are bipolar 10uF capacitors.
indeed, in case ya don't know, you can make unpolarized caps by putting them cathode to cathode... if ya need say 10uF you can use 2 22uF caps in series, to make one 10uF non polarized cap if ya need to.
Deleteanybody actually build this thing yet?
Is the LM660 actually LMC660. I can't find any info on the LM but on the LMC660 i have found three alternatives, LM6154, LMC6484 and LMP7704. Here is the link http://www.ti.com/product/lmc660. If these are correct i can only find LMC6484 at RS in the uk. The rest only in smd format.
ReplyDeleteCan someone let me know how best to wire the clean out signal. Is it going straight to a jack tip?
ReplyDeleteOh and also how to wire the drone footswitch. What kind of switch is it?
DeleteThe Clean out goes straight to a jack.
ReplyDeleteThe Drone part is a completely different add-on circuit.
You should check DIY and FSB original threads for more infos.
Thanks Alex. I realised after looking on both threads. I just left the clean output and ignored the drone part for now. I have built it but i fucked up when i connected the power. My power was set to -12v and now i am not getting the correct voltages when adjusting the trimmers. May have fried the two regulators. Getting a max of 9.28v on V+ and + 0.25v at V-. I have a spare 317 but need to buy another 337. Already checked for solder bridges so I'll go over it a few times just to check i haven't done anything else wrong.
ReplyDeleteJust realised this is 12v AC. How can i achieve this? Buy an adapter?
DeleteYeah man just buy an adapter from eBay. Converting DC to AC is complicated in this sorta thing I believe. You could probably find an AC adapter for real cheap!
DeleteUpdate: Just received my 12v AC power supply this morning so managed this afternoon to plug it in to the PLL and check voltages. As i figured i fried the 337T but was able to bias the V+ to 12v. Thought i would plug it anyway to see if there was signal and there was it sounds a bit rough as i suppose would be expected. It did respond to plucking so I am hopeful this will be verified once my new 337Ts get here (come on Tayda).
ReplyDeleteHey Gavin, which 12v AC power supply did you end up buying? I'd like to purchase one for this build. Thanks!
DeleteThis is now verified. I love this thing its got so many sounds its great. You can play for hours on this this. By the way don't use 4017BMs they make it sound awful which took me a while to figure out. Worth a build IMO.
ReplyDeleteCool! Thanks Gavin! Does it sound like the original video?
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DeleteSorry Alex only caught this post. Yes it sounds pretty much like the video. One thing i must add is that this is totally kick ass with a bass. Really great octaves and the fuzz is one of my favourites IMO. Have had a request for this one for bass already. Definitely for the experementalist musician.
DeleteWhat did you use instead of the 4017BMs?
DeleteYou need 4017BE
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ReplyDeleteI've never dealt with AC before - do I connect one terminal to 12vac+ and the other to ground?
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ReplyDeleteis it an LM660 or LMC660? I'd love to try to build this but as usual there's always one part I can't find anywhere...
ReplyDeleteIts an LMC660CN. You can find them in RS if in the UK.
ReplyDeleteTom, its the same way you would wire it up as if it was DC. I bought a 12V AC supply for it off Amazon reasonably cheaply.
Great, thanks Gavin!
DeleteDoes anyone know if I can buy a pcb of this, or some similar clone of this, anywhere? I couldn't find anything in OSH's shared projects.. was hoping that would be fruitful. I'm a little nervous to build this up on vero, thought 10 or 15 bucks on a pcb here would be money well spent, on time/space/ease etc.
ReplyDeleteHey, I did this earlier this year on vero. If you plan everything ahead and take your time everything will work out. I was also looking for a pcb, there were some printed by some fsb member (i think) but they are long gone.
DeleteCheck out the outcome http://jbpedals.blogspot.gr/2016/09/schumman-pll-clone-with-add-ons.html
I love the fuzz section of this pedal myself. where is the fuzz section?? and whats it consist of?? theres a cool synthy sound i want 2:16-end
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3kLVQJZEx8 2:16-end
Is really a 470n eletrolityc or its a mistake?
ReplyDeleteI've been planning this build for quite some time, and after looking at the schematic, it appears that lug 2 of the "Looptrack" pot indeed connects to a On-off-on SPDT, and a 470n electrolytic cap negative pole, the positive pole to ground. I'm not sure if I have a .47u Electro..
Deleteno biggie but i think there are 54 jumpers
ReplyDeleteDid you use heatsinks ? I ran tests on the regulator section alone and the ICs get very (very) hot
ReplyDeleteDavid M.Blass. After the hundreds of spam messages you’ve tried to post on this blog haven’t you noticed yet that not a single one has been published? I approve every post before they are published and so you’re wasting your time.
ReplyDeleteCarry on if you like but remember I know the URL of the business you’re trying to promote and these things can come back on you but worse