Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Request. To save space I did this using a 3 position on/off/on toggle instead of the rotary switch. You will get the same selections, 10n, 22n and 33n. Well you'll actually get 32n with my toggle but it's close enough, although if you do want it with exactly the same values you could always hand select a 22n cap that is closer to 23n :o) If you want a smaller box than the original, this has the potential to be mounted sideways in a 1590B if anyone is feeling brave, Box of Rock style.
Info about the original:
Create an unstoppable wall of fuzz and vibratory energy, capable of conquering all in its pathway. Its versatile filter circuitry allows for a wide range of tones and textures that allows the Megalith to work well with both guitar and bass.
The MORE HEAVY feature will allow you to cause localized disturbances in the Earth's magnetic field and may cause temporary blurred vision...
It was clear in the original, but with LEDs I'd always opt to socket them and try a few. Who's to say that the original sounds as good as it could to your ears.
just built this one yesterday and it sounds just like the clips of the originals on youtube. i'm going with the rotary like the original since i'm not crazy about horizontal 1590B pedals. BTW, mine seems to work better with a 2N222A instead of the 2N5088 in Q2.
Musikding has them as well but still a lot of cheddar for a bit of plastic.
My problem with Mouser is the same as with most operations, ridiculous shipping. 20eur for, again, a few pieces of plastic? For that kind of money I might as well order from Banzai/Musikding...
Let me rephrase and reiterate my point. I was trying to say that you ought to put up a clip of the clone circuit and not the original. That's it. I didn't mean to upset anyone.
the way that it works is that when the vero layout is first posted, no one has built it yet (until it's verified) so you use the clip to determine whether you like the sound of the original or not to see if it's a pedal that you might want to build.
This thing is massive! I am still battling the whine from a DC power supply but I'm going to try Javi's 220uf + 220R. Can't wait!
John yours looks amazing as always - what modifications did you do to the circuit? I see a few differences from the posted layout. Just moving things around?
I love this site and everything about it - you keep me SO busy!
OK, this was my first vero build and honestly I didn't think it would work :D Well, it does work and sounds spectacular, but I have a few questions: it's not boxed yet, for the record.
-> I don't hear much difference between the 2 extreme settings on the toggle switch (22 and 32 uF)... -> When not playing, I'm hearing a squeal (like a feedback) changing with the Input knob, is it the whine you're talking about? If so, where should I put the resistor and cap on the DC Jack? -> About the second LED: how should I wire it so it doesn't light up when the effect is off?
I replaced the 47uf cap from +9v to ground with a 220uf one. Te 220r resistor was soldered to the +9v lug of the dc jack, ans from there to the wire that connects to the +9v row in the pcb.
Yeah, 32 -22 nf don't mae a great difference, only when Notch and Slope lnobsareset very low.
For the second led, you need a DPDT or a 3PDT stompaswitch but you'll only use 2 of the poles. The first pole as stated on the layout (switch -1 -2 -3), and the second as usual: +9 from dc jack -> Led + > Led - to Switch 4 and ground to Switch 5. That's all.
about the LED, I've got a DPDT and I thought of wiring it the way you've explained it, but that way, wouldn't the "more heavy" LED light up even when the effect is disengaged?
No, no problem, I wire my double stomp effects this way and works fine. Take in mind that the power cut / connection is made by the own switch (lugs 4 and 5) so it works on its own.
OK, back from holidays, I replaced the 47u cap by a 220u, soldered a 220R to the DC jack... didn't change anything, thought i should try with lower hfe transistors (BC338s and 5088)... same... if anyone has a suggestion to prevent oscillation...
I used 2n4401 instead of bc338 and it sounded killer. I also used a green 3mm LED instead of the orange, but I don't know if that makes a difference. I did socket it though, but I liked how it sounded and I like green in general so there.
As I didn't manage to solve my problem (see posts above), I built a second one for a friend of mine: it works perfectly... I've spent a lot of time troubleshooting mine, replaced all electrolytics, transistors, double/triple/quadruple checked the wiring... the only thing i've found is that it stops whining when I bypass the toggle switch (ie if I short Notch 2&3 and Slope 2&3)... if I use a single 10nF capacitor between them, the whining comes back... it only happens at certain settings and the pedal is totally usable, but it just drives me crazy...
I feel for you, man... If you ever solve the problem, please report here! Deep deep mystery, to me, both pedals are the SAME, they sound the same (A/Bed them with same settings) except for this crazy whine...
welp, built this. it whines LOUD just like half the peoples' builds, even with the 220uf/220R fix up top. i switched from BC338 to 2n4401, no difference. what a bust.
in the gutshot pic, there is a resistor from the "more heavy" lug 1 (being consistent with this layout's labeling) to what appears to be ground. could that be the thing preventing the whine in the original?
I found my oscillation was coming from Q2 and I replaced it with a 2N222A and it worked perfectly. I will have to play around with it a bit. Might be gain sensitive like others have said above. Hope this helps someone else. It was driving me nuts since I REALLY wanted this thing to work properly.
Hey, thanks for this! Don't know if you meant 2N2222A, but I replaced Q2 with one (didn't have 2N222A and actually had misread your message...), it definitely eliminated the squeal and the Input knob has a much more interesting behavior!
So...no bueno. Sat down to get started, drilling the enclose, throwing the pots in. Pffft...don't have a 50k log pot. Is there a substitute that could get me by. I have an A250K, A surface mount b50k, and A 100k Kim...will the 100k lin be alright?
Hi everybody, I encountered a problem and I hope someone can help. The effect works great except of the More Heavy part. Everytime I engage the More Heavy switch the sound cuts out and there is nothing coming out of the box. The LED Lights up though Did anybody encountered the same issue? Circuit board looks fine.
If you're not getting anything with the More Heavy part turned on then you must have a problem with that section of the circuit which isn't letting the signal through (and so also blocking the main section of the circuit). You must have a build issue or faulty components, but measure the pin voltages of Q3 and see if that gives us a clue. In the meantime too, I would double check the values of all the components you're using around that transistor, and check all placements.
Are they AC or DC voltages? We need the DC voltage reading and if that is, then 0V on the collector definitely isn't right. It's connected to the 9V supply rail via the 51K resistor so there must be a problem with that connection, or maybe something else is pulling it down to ground. Nothing is jumping out at me in the circuit which could potentially be doing that (other than maybe an unwanted bridge somewhere) so that is making the 51K look more suspicious to me.
its DC, I could post a picture of the board tomorrow. I checked that 51k resistor (desoldered it and measured it, that one is fine), I will check the board for bridges and tell you my results. Thanks in advance for the help.
Hi, I checked the board and I didn't find any unwanted bridges. I took out the 51k resistor and soldered in a new one just in case. Now I have different voltages at CBE. C: 0,5V B: 1V E: 3,5V
still the More Heavy part doesn't work. I pretty much changed every component next to Q3. Could it be a off board fault or a broken poti?
Hey guys, is it possible to make it any louder? I know that it already is loud but I use it on bass and with my active Ibanez btb I have the output volume control at 3 o´clock just to match my clean volume. I was thinking on putting in a external dry poti like the Bass big muff volume mod so I can blend the Dry signal and distorted signal.
Could anybody give me a hind on how to accomplish this?
Just finished building this...finally. Figured out a couple of bits where my concentration had lacked and I'd soldered some wires in the wrong places (oops).
Anyway, only thing I can't get is the "More Heavy" LED to come on when the switch is pressed. If I solder it to lug 2 of the 2nd switch, it's on all the time. I tried it on lug 3 as the other stomp switch is and I get it sort of half brightness all the time.
Connect the LED cathode to Sw2-4 and ground Sw2-5. Sw2-6 can stay unconnected. So when the last stage is in circuit and so it's in "More Heavy" mode (Sw2-1 is connected to Sw2-2 and Sw2-4 is connected to Sw2-5 in the switch) the LED is illuminated.
Take the LED anode to 9V via a current limiting resistor.
You may have damaged the switch with multiple solderings. Put your multimeter in diode test mode which bleeps with continuity and check the state of the contacts is changing when you toggle the switch.
In one position lugs 1 & 2 and 4 & 5 should be connected In the other position lugs 2 & 3 and 5 & 6 should be connected
I'm sure the switches are fine. When I say nothing is happening I mean there's no effect (sorry should have been more specific). No fuzz. I can hear a change to the sound when I use the switches and the volume dials work...but not much else.
Let me try that again. De-squealed with all 2n5551 measuring at 170 hfe or close. All 270-ish (2n5088 if I recall) was squeal at all settings. Now my pedal is quiet when my guitar is. I don't have the persistent slosh-hash I hear in most demo vids. Of course I'm paranoid I don't have the same brootz corpulence, so I'm gonna try to inch the gain back up without restoring the squeal.
Have just built a new unit (fith one if I'm not wrong).
While this is an awesome, gross, fat and loud fuzz, i think is one of the most clear examples of a poorly designed circuit.
Input impedance can get really low (as low as 47k), and Q2 is really critical, as too high hfe will result in loud squeals and whine, and too low hfe will get a thin and hollow sound.
For my experience, Q1 and Q3 are great around 300hfe, and Q2 gets best results with about ~400-450 hfe, being cheap 2N3904 chinese modern trannies the best working ones I've found for this position. For Q1 and Q2, both BC338 and 2n4401 work great.
You have not to forget either, that a higher filter cap and a stability resistor (100-220r) are mandatory.
After you know all this, be ready to enjoy the most loud and thick wall of fuzz that you will ever find :P
Q2 2N3904 get rid of the squeal for me too, thanks. I also had success using BC550's for Q1 and Q3 along with 220uf/220r filtering the power, as several have suggested.
I don't have a DPDT stomp switch how would i wire up a 3PDT switch? Also is this the only stomp switch on this board or is it a second. Thanks in advance.
Ok, Managed to get this built and it sounds brilliant. I think this may be my favourit fuzz so far. Second stompswitch isn't working but i used a damaged one with a missing lug 7 and a loose lug 9 so i assume that is why. The LED lights up but thats it. I may change it for a DPDT on/on switch instead or possibly order a DPDT stomp. I used an orange diffuse 3mm LED and out of all the different colours and brightnesses this still sounded the best. The weirdest one was a high/ultra bright pink LED which gave a sizzling fuzz which was quite nice but only for a short while. Recommend building this one if you like your fuzzes.
Thanks Javi for the info on the transistors as thats what i used. I forgot to add the 200R resistor but it didn't seem to make any difference no squeals or anything just ultra fuzzy goodness.
Niced to see that you were able to deal with your issues. This board is very easy, but the offboard wiring is a PITA, and is easy to make things wrong.
Niced too to see that my notes about trannies and hfe were of help to you. Yeah, for me the orange and yellow bright leds make a noticeable difference in sound.
220r resistor is just needed if you plan to use an external power supply instead of a battery. This circuit is at the very edge of stability and just 1 volt more or less can change things a lot.
Thats weird i didn't install a battery because i tend to daisy chain instead and its fine, no interference at all. I do have 34 pedals in a chain with an extra slot to test my new builds. Is this too many? I use a 9v 2500mA power supply.
Greetings, I'm new to pedal building, as I just recently built 2 kits. I would love to do a vero build of this circuit, but it doesn't show how to wire the board to the pots. I am still ignorant of many things, but I am absorbing the information like a sponge, as I think I am addicted to building pedals now. Could someone show me how to wire this circuit to the pots, like even drawing it out on a piece of paper? Any help would be sincerely appreciated.
hey man. all the information you're asking is all provided in the layout already. you'll see that on the board colored wires that say what pot and lug of the pot it goes it goes to. you'll also see in the notes at the bottom additional information about where wires go that are not shown on the board or switches shown in the layout. tbh, you're not really going to find someone to draw it all out for you as it takes more time and provides the same info that's already provided in the layout currently. if you're really new to building i would probably do something else that's simpler and has fewer connections and additional switches.
Thanks for the fast reply Zach! I do see what you are talking about now in the description below. I am more able to learn through visual examples. But after reading the written examples below there is some info that is left out like for the notch shift dial. Would you happen to know of any photos of the actual wiring of an open box? I'm not intimidated by building something like this by the way. Also, I live in California, in Long Beach. Do you live Southern California, or anybody else here? Thanks again Zach.
I do not have any photos and I'm actually not in SoCal. There's a few people from SoCal around here though. If you look at the board there's a wire on the 3rd row on the left labeled notch 1. So you will connect lug 1 of the notch pot to that place on the board. It saws in the notes at the bottom to connect notch 2&3 to sw1-2. Again all the info you're asking is there.
Keep in mind while we all try to help each other out in the community, no one is really going to hold your hand through it. Even though you say you built a couple of kits I would recommend you read the build guide. It will show you how to read the layout in order to place components and wire the pots, not for this pedal particularly but the concepts are the same for all pedals.
TBH, the issue that I see is not that I think you're intimidated, but I really think you lack the experience and skills needed for this build. If you can't read the layout and understand the wiring this becomes a very challenging build. Again, I would consider building something simpler first to learn to read the layouts so you assemble a pedal successfully. Not trying to sound like a jerk.
I found schematic online after some digging and this showed up. Looks like the developer of the pedal gave this out. Looks somewhat clear too, at least to me. Maybe this will help you guys too for troubleshooting. Here is the link: http://music.codydeschenes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Mountainking-Electronics-Megalith-Schematics.png
I work for an old couple in Dover Shores on Santiago Dr. I co-manage their estate, doing handyman stuff, chauffeuring, etc. We should keep in touch. Check out each other's pedal builds for sure.
Thank you Mark. This was my first vero layout build (after building an amp and some BYOC kits). I can't believe it actually worked on the first try :D
I used the 220 resistor and cap as suggested and also went with 2N4401 for Q1 and Q3 and 2N3904 for Q2. I ordered a 470n that was too big so that had to go on the side.
The next step will be to change the More Heavy led to a sound-to-light circuit to add the effect of eyes glowing with the strumming. ..and to add graphics ofcourse.
.. and here are some pics on the finished pedal. http://pics.bergsland.se/index.php?/albums/mountainking-megalith-clone/
As a side note, I am using this sound2light circuit: http://musik.bergsland.se/media/pedals/sound2lightsolution.png As it works now, with a low powered battery the leds go completely off when I mute the string and light up when I play. With a fresh battery or a wall plug they are always lit and shine a little brighter when I play. How can I adjust so it acts closer to but not completely like a bad battery?
I got the advice to add a third led to the sound2light circuit to make the leds fade out completely even with a fresh battery and it works perfectly now.
Greetings! Just finished this and am having some problems with the “more heavy” working. When engaged I can barely hear the signal. I verified all the components and wiring was correct and in the proper place. Q3 voltages are: C 8.96v. DC B. 1.61v DC E. 1.61v DC
After figuring out the More Heavy pot was bad I now have .1v DC on Q3's B and E. I think I am just going to build another board and test all the components before soldering.
I tested this with a low gain 2N3904 in Q2 because the pedal squeeled a bit at some settings but this killed the awesomeness of the pedal.. Trim your wires as short as possible, do the 220uF/220ohm resistor mod and look for a transistor with gain between 400 and 500hfe.. Most 2N5088 are indeed too high (around 550hfe), but you need enough gain to make this pedal shine..
wow, thanks a lot, can't wait to build this one!
ReplyDeleteStoked! Just ordered some bc338, so this in next on the list in the quest for galaxy-slaying bass fuzz.
ReplyDeleteSounds awesome. I used all 2n4401 trannies and it sounds fantastic. Brutal fuzz.
ReplyDeleteAwesome, thanks for verifying!
DeleteWow, that was quick OTT.
ReplyDeleteThanks again IvIark, you are amazingly quick with this stuff! I populated it last night, and will be boxing this weekend, or tonight if I get time!
Holy shit.
ReplyDeletedoes it matter if the led is diffused or waterclear?
ReplyDeleteIt was clear in the original, but with LEDs I'd always opt to socket them and try a few. Who's to say that the original sounds as good as it could to your ears.
DeleteDoes the LED color really impact the sound?
Delete
ReplyDeleteit doesnt matter.
just built this one yesterday and it sounds just like the clips of the originals on youtube. i'm going with the rotary like the original since i'm not crazy about horizontal 1590B pedals. BTW, mine seems to work better with a 2N222A instead of the 2N5088 in Q2.
ReplyDeletegot mine boxed up.
ReplyDeletePICS:
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Megalith/Megalith-01.jpg
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Megalith/Megalith-01.jpg
Great build as usual John, and the CB30, thanks for the pics
Deleteawesome!
Deleteagoldoor here. Built it, and it is the loudest fucking pedal I've EVER built, in my life... or played for that matter. Ungodly loudosity!
ReplyDeleteJesus f**** Christ! Just finished to build this pedal and is really insane.
ReplyDeleteIt really shocks a so brutal fuzz, hard to believe until you listen it in your own amp.
Used the DPDT as after somem measure i realized that it was perfectly doable in a 1590B vertical if not using a rotary.
Have to paint the enclosure and learn how to use my new Brother PT-2100VP :P Hope I get something similar to what John gets :)
BR
DeleteJavi, I'd be very interested in your thoughts on that label printer once you label a few boxes... maybe post some pictures in the forum section?
Yeah, no problem, I'll publish pics as soon as i finish an enclosure with these labels.
DeleteBR
Thanks!
DeleteNot only does John do great work, his pictures are also great and I cannot see the label border in any of his pictures. :)
ReplyDeleteJohn, where do you get your fresnel led lens?
Not sure about John, but i've got a batch from Mouser. Cheap(ish). Not china cheap, but still a lot cheaper than from Banzai...
Delete+m
Thanks Miro!
DeleteMusikding has them as well but still a lot of cheddar for a bit of plastic.
My problem with Mouser is the same as with most operations, ridiculous shipping. 20eur for, again, a few pieces of plastic? For that kind of money I might as well order from Banzai/Musikding...
I get mine from mouser too.
DeleteOrdered parts to build this bad boy. You need to do the magnetar as well. Killer sounding circuits
ReplyDeleteShit, I'm afraid that my power supply (1 Spot) is begining to fail or I have a grounding problem at home.
ReplyDeleteOnce boxed, this effect sounds just incredible with a 9v battery, but if I plug the 1 Spot I get a really loud squeal.
I'll have to get a new PS, because I'm getting problems with many fuzz / distortion effects gettin' noisy or just pure squeals like this one.
BR
PS Tried a 220uf filtering cap, and the squeal remains the same :(
Fine, the 220uf + a 220R soldered to the dc jack are wonderful, quiet pedal now.
DeleteA real incredible one, by the way:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=497026047035915&set=a.404470492958138.93220.404417189630135&type=1&theater
BR
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ReplyDeleteHow about if you watch the video you like and stop telling people what they have to publish?
Delete+1!!! besides, that IS the actual pedal being COPIED here. NOT the copy of it. please try posting when you have something to contribute.
DeleteLet me rephrase and reiterate my point. I was trying to say that you ought to put up a clip of the clone circuit and not the original. That's it. I didn't mean to upset anyone.
Deletethe way that it works is that when the vero layout is first posted, no one has built it yet (until it's verified) so you use the clip to determine whether you like the sound of the original or not to see if it's a pedal that you might want to build.
DeleteThis thing is massive! I am still battling the whine from a DC power supply but I'm going to try Javi's 220uf + 220R. Can't wait!
DeleteJohn yours looks amazing as always - what modifications did you do to the circuit? I see a few differences from the posted layout. Just moving things around?
I love this site and everything about it - you keep me SO busy!
OK, this was my first vero build and honestly I didn't think it would work :D Well, it does work and sounds spectacular, but I have a few questions: it's not boxed yet, for the record.
ReplyDelete-> I don't hear much difference between the 2 extreme settings on the toggle switch (22 and 32 uF)...
-> When not playing, I'm hearing a squeal (like a feedback) changing with the Input knob, is it the whine you're talking about? If so, where should I put the resistor and cap on the DC Jack?
-> About the second LED: how should I wire it so it doesn't light up when the effect is off?
Thanks again
I replaced the 47uf cap from +9v to ground with a 220uf one. Te 220r resistor was soldered to the +9v lug of the dc jack, ans from there to the wire that connects to the +9v row in the pcb.
DeleteYeah, 32 -22 nf don't mae a great difference, only when Notch and Slope lnobsareset very low.
For the second led, you need a DPDT or a 3PDT stompaswitch but you'll only use 2 of the poles. The first pole as stated on the layout (switch -1 -2 -3), and the second as usual: +9 from dc jack -> Led + > Led - to Switch 4 and ground to Switch 5. That's all.
BR
thanks a lot, Javi!
Deleteabout the LED, I've got a DPDT and I thought of wiring it the way you've explained it, but that way, wouldn't the "more heavy" LED light up even when the effect is disengaged?
No, no problem, I wire my double stomp effects this way and works fine. Take in mind that the power cut / connection is made by the own switch (lugs 4 and 5) so it works on its own.
DeleteOnly
OK, back from holidays, I replaced the 47u cap by a 220u, soldered a 220R to the DC jack... didn't change anything, thought i should try with lower hfe transistors (BC338s and 5088)... same... if anyone has a suggestion to prevent oscillation...
Deletehttp://img90.imageshack.us/img90/6095/nay6.jpg
ReplyDeleteI used 2n4401 instead of bc338 and it sounded killer. I also used a green 3mm LED instead of the orange, but I don't know if that makes a difference. I did socket it though, but I liked how it sounded and I like green in general so there.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/tomkogut/photo-20_zps57b5b6ae.jpg
ReplyDeleteused bc338's, clear orange led, and a 47n instead of 22n for some really muddy stuff. it rules.
Excellent jobs, thanks for the pics Jon and Tom
ReplyDeleteEvil twins: http://imageshack.us/a/img138/6713/gbj2.jpg
ReplyDeleteAs I didn't manage to solve my problem (see posts above), I built a second one for a friend of mine: it works perfectly... I've spent a lot of time troubleshooting mine, replaced all electrolytics, transistors, double/triple/quadruple checked the wiring... the only thing i've found is that it stops whining when I bypass the toggle switch (ie if I short Notch 2&3 and Slope 2&3)... if I use a single 10nF capacitor between them, the whining comes back... it only happens at certain settings and the pedal is totally usable, but it just drives me crazy...
Exact thing is happening to me also. Driving me crazy. Wish I just had a etch mask for this thing to make a PCB. lol
DeleteI feel for you, man... If you ever solve the problem, please report here! Deep deep mystery, to me, both pedals are the SAME, they sound the same (A/Bed them with same settings) except for this crazy whine...
Deletewelp, built this. it whines LOUD just like half the peoples' builds, even with the 220uf/220R fix up top. i switched from BC338 to 2n4401, no difference. what a bust.
ReplyDeletein the gutshot pic, there is a resistor from the "more heavy" lug 1 (being consistent with this layout's labeling) to what appears to be ground. could that be the thing preventing the whine in the original?
Deletehttp://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p246/brandos_dad/Music%20Room%20Gear/DSC00305.jpg
Deletefor reference
I found my oscillation was coming from Q2 and I replaced it with a 2N222A and it worked perfectly. I will have to play around with it a bit. Might be gain sensitive like others have said above. Hope this helps someone else. It was driving me nuts since I REALLY wanted this thing to work properly.
ReplyDeleteHey, thanks for this! Don't know if you meant 2N2222A, but I replaced Q2 with one (didn't have 2N222A and actually had misread your message...), it definitely eliminated the squeal and the Input knob has a much more interesting behavior!
ReplyDeleteOn the dpdt switch 2 which pole is which number are you counting 1 to 6 horizontally or vertically
ReplyDeleteI use the same convention on all the layouts on the site, unless I'm staying true to a particular schematic which numbers them in a specific way.
Delete1---4
2---5
3---6
cool thanks
ReplyDeletecool thanks
ReplyDeletei cannot get this to work it just makes a fizzy sound can anyone help?
ReplyDeletenevermind i found the short
ReplyDeleteI don't have a 1m reverse log(Tayda sold out at time of order), but I do have a 500k rev log. Would that be ok?
ReplyDeleteIt should be fine, it will probably mean that the gain won't go as low as it would with a 1M pot but the full gain sound will be the same
DeleteOk. Great. Thanks man. Happy holiday .
ReplyDeleteSo...no bueno. Sat down to get started, drilling the enclose, throwing the pots in. Pffft...don't have a 50k log pot. Is there a substitute that could get me by. I have an A250K, A surface mount b50k, and A 100k Kim...will the 100k lin be alright?
ReplyDeleteuntil you get the correct pot, i'd just put a 62K resistor between lugs 1 & 3 on the A250K to make it an A50K pot.
ReplyDeletethanks john. will do.
ReplyDeleteHi everybody,
ReplyDeleteI encountered a problem and I hope someone can help.
The effect works great except of the More Heavy part.
Everytime I engage the More Heavy switch the sound cuts out and there is nothing coming out of the box. The LED Lights up though
Did anybody encountered the same issue?
Circuit board looks fine.
Thanks in advance
If you're not getting anything with the More Heavy part turned on then you must have a problem with that section of the circuit which isn't letting the signal through (and so also blocking the main section of the circuit). You must have a build issue or faulty components, but measure the pin voltages of Q3 and see if that gives us a clue. In the meantime too, I would double check the values of all the components you're using around that transistor, and check all placements.
DeleteThanks man.
ReplyDeleteI hope I measured correct:
Between E and C its 0,56 mV
Between B and C its 1,55 V
Between E and C its 2,65 V
hope that helps,
I am pretty nebbish so I am not that confident with a meter
No measure between each pin and ground. Red probe at the pin, black probe at ground.
Deleteok,
ReplyDeleteC: 0v
B: 240mv
E: 250mv
Are they AC or DC voltages? We need the DC voltage reading and if that is, then 0V on the collector definitely isn't right. It's connected to the 9V supply rail via the 51K resistor so there must be a problem with that connection, or maybe something else is pulling it down to ground. Nothing is jumping out at me in the circuit which could potentially be doing that (other than maybe an unwanted bridge somewhere) so that is making the 51K look more suspicious to me.
Deleteits DC,
ReplyDeleteI could post a picture of the board tomorrow. I checked that 51k resistor (desoldered it and measured it, that one is fine), I will check the board for bridges and tell you my results.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Hi, I checked the board and I didn't find any unwanted bridges.
ReplyDeleteI took out the 51k resistor and soldered in a new one just in case.
Now I have different voltages at CBE.
C: 0,5V
B: 1V
E: 3,5V
still the More Heavy part doesn't work.
I pretty much changed every component next to Q3.
Could it be a off board fault or a broken poti?
Here are to picture of my board. Sorry for the sloppiness, I am still learning :)
ReplyDeleteHopefully you can find my fault, it drives me nuts.
http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_18230dseo.jpg
http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_1824fiskr.jpg
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ReplyDeleteHey guys, is it possible to make it any louder?
ReplyDeleteI know that it already is loud but I use it on bass and with my active Ibanez btb I have the output volume control at 3 o´clock just to match my clean volume. I was thinking on putting in a external dry poti like the Bass big muff volume mod so I can blend the Dry signal and distorted signal.
Could anybody give me a hind on how to accomplish this?
Thanks in advance
Just finished building this...finally. Figured out a couple of bits where my concentration had lacked and I'd soldered some wires in the wrong places (oops).
ReplyDeleteAnyway, only thing I can't get is the "More Heavy" LED to come on when the switch is pressed. If I solder it to lug 2 of the 2nd switch, it's on all the time. I tried it on lug 3 as the other stomp switch is and I get it sort of half brightness all the time.
Anyone know what I've done wrong here?
Connect the LED cathode to Sw2-4 and ground Sw2-5. Sw2-6 can stay unconnected.
DeleteSo when the last stage is in circuit and so it's in "More Heavy" mode (Sw2-1 is connected to Sw2-2 and Sw2-4 is connected to Sw2-5 in the switch) the LED is illuminated.
Take the LED anode to 9V via a current limiting resistor.
Thanks again!
DeleteFinally found some free time to sort the LED which now works perfectly, thanks again.
ReplyDeleteExcept now I've got nothing happening when I press the switches...I feel I may have got out of my depth on this one...
You may have damaged the switch with multiple solderings. Put your multimeter in diode test mode which bleeps with continuity and check the state of the contacts is changing when you toggle the switch.
DeleteIn one position lugs 1 & 2 and 4 & 5 should be connected
In the other position lugs 2 & 3 and 5 & 6 should be connected
I'm sure the switches are fine. When I say nothing is happening I mean there's no effect (sorry should have been more specific). No fuzz. I can hear a change to the sound when I use the switches and the volume dials work...but not much else.
Deletecouldn't resist showing you this one:
ReplyDeletehttps://www.flickr.com/photos/118474006@N06/14562304324/
Nice job, thanks for the pic
DeleteAny guidance on wiring the notch shift with a rotary like JohnK? I've studied his pics but can't seem to figure it out...
ReplyDeleteI wired it like this:
ReplyDeletehttp://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Megalith/MegalithRotarySwitch.png
Thanks John. Apprecaite it!
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ReplyDeleteLet me try that again. De-squealed with all 2n5551 measuring at 170 hfe or close. All 270-ish (2n5088 if I recall) was squeal at all settings. Now my pedal is quiet when my guitar is. I don't have the persistent slosh-hash I hear in most demo vids. Of course I'm paranoid I don't have the same brootz corpulence, so I'm gonna try to inch the gain back up without restoring the squeal.
DeleteFun pedal indeed.
Bravo! Bear please update us about your research.
DeleteIs the 1N5817 crucial or is it just for polarity protection?
ReplyDeleteYes just polarity protection, omit it completely if you want
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ReplyDeleteHave just built a new unit (fith one if I'm not wrong).
ReplyDeleteWhile this is an awesome, gross, fat and loud fuzz, i think is one of the most clear examples of a poorly designed circuit.
Input impedance can get really low (as low as 47k), and Q2 is really critical, as too high hfe will result in loud squeals and whine, and too low hfe will get a thin and hollow sound.
For my experience, Q1 and Q3 are great around 300hfe, and Q2 gets best results with about ~400-450 hfe, being cheap 2N3904 chinese modern trannies the best working ones I've found for this position. For Q1 and Q2, both BC338 and 2n4401 work great.
You have not to forget either, that a higher filter cap and a stability resistor (100-220r) are mandatory.
After you know all this, be ready to enjoy the most loud and thick wall of fuzz that you will ever find :P
J.
Q2 2N3904 get rid of the squeal for me too, thanks. I also had success using BC550's for Q1 and Q3 along with 220uf/220r filtering the power, as several have suggested.
DeleteHave you tried to build it with higher input impedance? What will that do to the sound?
DeleteI don't have a DPDT stomp switch how would i wire up a 3PDT switch? Also is this the only stomp switch on this board or is it a second. Thanks in advance.
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DeleteOk, Managed to get this built and it sounds brilliant. I think this may be my favourit fuzz so far. Second stompswitch isn't working but i used a damaged one with a missing lug 7 and a loose lug 9 so i assume that is why. The LED lights up but thats it. I may change it for a DPDT on/on switch instead or possibly order a DPDT stomp. I used an orange diffuse 3mm LED and out of all the different colours and brightnesses this still sounded the best. The weirdest one was a high/ultra bright pink LED which gave a sizzling fuzz which was quite nice but only for a short while. Recommend building this one if you like your fuzzes.
DeleteOh, the next best LED i found to give a really nice fuzz was a blue diffused 3mm. The weird sounding pink one was a 5mm.
DeleteThanks Javi for the info on the transistors as thats what i used. I forgot to add the 200R resistor but it didn't seem to make any difference no squeals or anything just ultra fuzzy goodness.
DeleteSorry but i forgot to mention that i put 2n4401s in Q1 and Q3 an 2n3904 in Q2.
DeleteNiced to see that you were able to deal with your issues. This board is very easy, but the offboard wiring is a PITA, and is easy to make things wrong.
DeleteNiced too to see that my notes about trannies and hfe were of help to you. Yeah, for me the orange and yellow bright leds make a noticeable difference in sound.
220r resistor is just needed if you plan to use an external power supply instead of a battery. This circuit is at the very edge of stability and just 1 volt more or less can change things a lot.
J.
Thats weird i didn't install a battery because i tend to daisy chain instead and its fine, no interference at all. I do have 34 pedals in a chain with an extra slot to test my new builds. Is this too many? I use a 9v 2500mA power supply.
Deletenice article… simple and useful :)
ReplyDeleteelectronic display boards india
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ReplyDeleteJust built this one and had the same issue with the whine and squeal regardless of Q2. I tried flipping it and it seems to work normally now.
ReplyDeleteDeleted my previous comment so I could subscribe.
Greetings,
ReplyDeleteI'm new to pedal building, as I just recently built 2 kits. I would love to do a vero build of this circuit, but it doesn't show how to wire the board to the pots. I am still ignorant of many things, but I am absorbing the information like a sponge, as I think I am addicted to building pedals now. Could someone show me how to wire this circuit to the pots, like even drawing it out on a piece of paper? Any help would be sincerely appreciated.
hey man. all the information you're asking is all provided in the layout already. you'll see that on the board colored wires that say what pot and lug of the pot it goes it goes to. you'll also see in the notes at the bottom additional information about where wires go that are not shown on the board or switches shown in the layout. tbh, you're not really going to find someone to draw it all out for you as it takes more time and provides the same info that's already provided in the layout currently. if you're really new to building i would probably do something else that's simpler and has fewer connections and additional switches.
DeleteThanks for the fast reply Zach! I do see what you are talking about now in the description below. I am more able to learn through visual examples. But after reading the written examples below there is some info that is left out like for the notch shift dial. Would you happen to know of any photos of the actual wiring of an open box? I'm not intimidated by building something like this by the way. Also, I live in California, in Long Beach. Do you live Southern California, or anybody else here?
DeleteThanks again Zach.
I do not have any photos and I'm actually not in SoCal. There's a few people from SoCal around here though. If you look at the board there's a wire on the 3rd row on the left labeled notch 1. So you will connect lug 1 of the notch pot to that place on the board. It saws in the notes at the bottom to connect notch 2&3 to sw1-2. Again all the info you're asking is there.
DeleteKeep in mind while we all try to help each other out in the community, no one is really going to hold your hand through it. Even though you say you built a couple of kits I would recommend you read the build guide. It will show you how to read the layout in order to place components and wire the pots, not for this pedal particularly but the concepts are the same for all pedals.
TBH, the issue that I see is not that I think you're intimidated, but I really think you lack the experience and skills needed for this build. If you can't read the layout and understand the wiring this becomes a very challenging build. Again, I would consider building something simpler first to learn to read the layouts so you assemble a pedal successfully. Not trying to sound like a jerk.
I found schematic online after some digging and this showed up. Looks like the developer of the pedal gave this out. Looks somewhat clear too, at least to me. Maybe this will help you guys too for troubleshooting. Here is the link: http://music.codydeschenes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Mountainking-Electronics-Megalith-Schematics.png
DeleteWhatup sprayscience? I'm a fellow SoCal resident (OC). Welcome and good luck :)
ReplyDeleteHey Travis. Thanks!
DeleteAlso, I work in OC, Newport Beach.
I'll update you guys on my builds for sure.
Good day to you Travis.
I work in Newport too. Are you in residential construction?
DeleteI work for an old couple in Dover Shores on Santiago Dr. I co-manage their estate, doing handyman stuff, chauffeuring, etc.
DeleteWe should keep in touch. Check out each other's pedal builds for sure.
Absolutely! I would post my email so you can contact me but I'm worried about getting hacked or spammed or something.
DeleteMy username on the forum here is also Travis and you can click the little email button on my profile thing to get in touch any time
Hey Travis. I sent you an email with my contact info. Let me know if you got it.
DeleteThank you Mark.
ReplyDeleteThis was my first vero layout build (after building an amp and some BYOC kits).
I can't believe it actually worked on the first try :D
I used the 220 resistor and cap as suggested and also went with 2N4401 for Q1 and Q3 and 2N3904 for Q2.
I ordered a 470n that was too big so that had to go on the side.
The next step will be to change the More Heavy led to a sound-to-light circuit to add the effect of eyes glowing with the strumming.
..and to add graphics ofcourse.
http://musik.bergsland.se/media/pedals/megalith/_MG_9485.jpg
http://musik.bergsland.se/media/pedals/megalith/_MG_9488.jpg
.. and here are some pics on the finished pedal.
Deletehttp://pics.bergsland.se/index.php?/albums/mountainking-megalith-clone/
As a side note, I am using this sound2light circuit:
http://musik.bergsland.se/media/pedals/sound2lightsolution.png
As it works now, with a low powered battery the leds go completely off when I mute the string and light up when I play. With a fresh battery or a wall plug they are always lit and shine a little brighter when I play.
How can I adjust so it acts closer to but not completely like a bad battery?
I got the advice to add a third led to the sound2light circuit to make the leds fade out completely even with a fresh battery and it works perfectly now.
DeleteHi all...am I reading this right? Both the SW1-5 AND the wire from the board go to the same Slope 2/3 lugs?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Yes.
DeleteThank you!
Deletewhen can we expect magnetar vero. thing sounds great
ReplyDeleteGreetings! Just finished this and am having some problems with the “more heavy” working. When engaged I can barely hear the signal. I verified all the components and wiring was correct and in the proper place. Q3 voltages are:
ReplyDeleteC 8.96v. DC
B. 1.61v DC
E. 1.61v DC
Any ideas?
After figuring out the More Heavy pot was bad I now have .1v DC on Q3's B and E. I think I am just going to build another board and test all the components before soldering.
ReplyDeleteI tested this with a low gain 2N3904 in Q2 because the pedal squeeled a bit at some settings but this killed the awesomeness of the pedal.. Trim your wires as short as possible, do the 220uF/220ohm resistor mod and look for a transistor with gain between 400 and 500hfe.. Most 2N5088 are indeed too high (around 550hfe), but you need enough gain to make this pedal shine..
ReplyDelete