Tuesday, 9 August 2016

VFE Pedals Pale Horse

Here is a layout for their latest version.
You can find schematic and info on their website here.


10 comments:

  1. That was crazy fast!
    Amazing job, cant wait to build one.
    And what a great move from VFE.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Wow!! Alex you rock. I'll try to build this as soon as I can.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Where do I find W1M pots in U.K , and whats D taper and where do I find one.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Unfortunately, all of these were custom ordered pots, to make dialing in each control as smooth as possible.

      The D taper is a 10% logarithmic pot. Use can use an A taper, which is a 15% logarithmic pot, but it will be harder to fine tune low gain settings.

      The workaround I recommend for W tapers is to use a switch to change between clipping configurations, and then add a pot in series to provide series resistance. I recommend antilog C100K, where the series resistance goes down as you turn CW - this adds distortion & compression as you turn CW - but the pot's value & taper can be whatever you want.

      Delete
    2. Thanks for the info Peter, I'm going to have to try this. Really nice overdrive thanks for publishing the schematic. And thanks Alex for making a layout.

      Delete
  4. Done. I used b's for w's and just hook the 1&3 reversed for the C's.
    Boxed this Pale Horse and the Dark Horse in a single 1590bb and they play very well together.

    ReplyDelete
  5. I finally got around to building this. I used a 2n5457 instead of the 5484 and a A1M for the drive. For the comp I tried a switch but I wound up using a A1M because that's what I had around. It sound great, really punchy with the Lows up. I do get a little sputtering when the Drive is really low, not sure why. Wonder if its because I didn't do what Peter suggested with the comp, or because its not a D taper. But all in all, this is looking to replace my OCD clone I have on my pedal board right now. Really nice overdrive, almost distortion territory when the drive is up high.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ralf, try a J201 instead of a 2N5457.

      I just built one and with a 2N5457 it was quite sputtery too. Changed it for a J201 and it was just absolutely perfect. What an AMAZING overdrive, boost, distortion, everything.

      Delete
  6. So I just built one using a A1M for drive, C10k for Hi and Low and W20K for tone.
    I used a clipping switched on-off-on, with hardwired red leds (so center off is led clipping) and two positions: one is symmetrical 1N4148 and the other is just a 2N7000 with a 100pf in parallel.

    Instead of the 2N5484 I used a J201. It sounds perfect, much better than the 2N5457 I tried first. 2N5457 don't work in this position, the sound becomes sputtery, the decay fizzy, and almost like there's a noise gate. J201 works fine in my build.

    And it is an AMAZING overdrive. It can do pretty much everything really. I strongly strongly recommend building one!!

    Peter (VFE), THANKS again for all you're giving to the DIY scene. It's truly amazing.

    ReplyDelete