Sunday, 17 March 2013

Dwarfcraft Devices Robot Devil



73 comments:

  1. Wow by some strange twist of fate I actually have both these ICs, one left over from the Great Destroyer. I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow :D

    Gotta love Dwarfcraft for the noise boxes!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's not the same chip as in TGD. Here, it's the UBE like in Red Llama.. TGD has BE in it.
      +m

      Delete
    2. That's what I meant by twist of fate, I'd bought the wrong one and ended up with the UBE! I kept meaning to build the Red Llama but never got around to it, this seems a bit more up my street anyway.

      Delete
    3. Love it when things turn out good :)

      Llama is one build i'll recommend. Really loud and has a tonal overdrive of it's own. Not a perfect OD/Dist, but you can drive any tube amp to new horizons with it. I need to build one more, as those are getting ripped from my hands every time i build one... Got 30 UBEs at one point.. BEs seem to be harder to find, but i got some of those through ebay as well...
      +m

      Delete
  2. Also so everyone knows, Dwarfcraft sells kits for these. If you can spare the extra dough to buy the kit, it would help support Dwarfcraft, who make pretty unique and interesting stuff.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Holy crap such a simple build and it sounds amazing

    ReplyDelete
  4. Starve 3 probably goes to 9v+

    Starve 1 probably goes to nothing or is tied to lug 2

    ReplyDelete
  5. Starve 1 is connected either with lug 1 or 3. The other one goes to ground or is left unused.

    Greetings,
    Chris

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Figured but usually they put them down. Another awesome note tayda has both chips :-)

      Delete
    2. Damnit. I'll add the note once i get back home... Yes, it is +9V to Starve 1.
      +m

      Delete
    3. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
    4. Actually, after adjusting my resistors, 2 & 3 joined made no difference anymore (and it's all good now). So people with clock noises should check their resistors.

      Delete
  6. Dammit I´m an Idiot. Wanted to say stare 1 is connected with +9V !
    Sorry

    ReplyDelete
  7. I don't know if Nicholas has already verified this but if not, it definitely is verified. And it sounds freakin' AWESOME!!! In the end I've decided to get rid of the starve pot and just connect up 9v, 1) because the pot stated smoking and was about to set on fire, 2) because it produces some horrible clock noise (this seems to be the bane of my life at the moment) if you dial it back to far.

    This would sound great with a bandpass filter in front of it because the octave sounds seem to be really reactive to the frequencies put into it, if I dial back the tone on the guitar it leaves some of the octave sounds untouched but completely removes some of the higher sounds.

    Noise freaks need this in their lives. Fact.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. One other thing, this thing is earbleedingly loud so it may be an idea to send the output to a volume pot.

      Delete
    2. I was thinking about removing the starve pot as well it seems to sound best in the demo full up. I guess it should just be replaced with 2k. Throwing in the volume pot keeps it 3 knobs that way

      Delete
    3. You won't need the 2k resistor, just connect 9v directly to hole marked 'starve 2'.

      Delete
    4. Ha! Thanks guys! I'll tag it right away...
      +m

      Delete
    5. So if I wanted to keep the starve control and not have it catch fire. What would I do? Throw a different value pot in there?

      I've never had this issue with adding a voltage sag into a pedal, I've done it with a Boss DS-1 before and it's never done anything other than what was intended.

      Delete
    6. I should also mention that I usually use 10k lin pots for starve controls.. I'm still a noob though and have no idea if this makes a difference.

      Delete
    7. I believe Madferret had a faulty pot. :) I've never got my starve pots to heat up..
      +m

      Delete
    8. Definitely a faulty pot, it was a cheapo one I got in bulk.

      Delete
  8. Can i use the C4049 U?
    http://www.banzaimusic.com/CD4049-U.html
    Than x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That one will work fine, just make sure you don't order the buffered one.

      Delete
    2. ...Or maybe you should get those too, as those go nicely with The Great Destroyer :)
      +m

      Delete
    3. Can I use a CD4040BD for this??

      Delete
    4. Yup. Should work just fine.
      +m

      Delete
  9. Just a quick question, why is the SW/2 Octave 3 wired to the board as it doesn't connect to the IC?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Dummy connection. Replaces "SW2 to Octave 3" note, thus eliminating a need for daisy chaining offboard components. I do those some times...
      +

      Delete
    2. Thanks Mirosol , looking forward to building this

      Delete
    3. Another daft question - Is the CD4040 Buffered or Unbuffered? Built mine with the Unbuffered CD4049 and the Buffered CD4040 and it sounds different to the demo vid, but makes a great holy racket (helicopters and pacman mixed with sizzling sausages!)

      Delete
    4. Does not specify that on the schematic...
      +m

      Delete
  10. Just built this thing. Holy cow. Seriously awesome! Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  11. Two questions about this circuit:

    1. Is there an easy mod to get an octave up effect? Perhaps a 3-way switch, for octave up, octave down, two octave down.

    2. This thing is amazing, but is there a way to have the octaves be less gated? For sustained notes, it would be great if I could get them to ring out a bit longer. Not a big deal, but would be nice.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Hi. A beginner question. There are any alternative to CD4040?
    I cannot find it on sale.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. http://www.taydaelectronics.com/cd4040be-cd4040-4040-ripple-carry-binary-counter-divider-ic.html

      Delete
  13. I just tried to build this and I had the same problem with the STARVE pot. It started glowing like an LED at the bottom 10% before I shut it down. Smelled kinda funny after that, I suspect it's shaken off this mortal coil. I am not getting any sound when engaged, but I finally got a day off so I'll look at it tomorrow. I figure I will bypass the Starve.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I bypassed the starve and got distortion but no octave. Which IC is creating the octave? Maybe I burned it up when I burned up the pot. Thanks

      Delete
    2. Got it working. Turns out I missed a link (there were only 11 after all) and it works great

      Delete
  14. Does anyone have a picture of their build they can post?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I would post mine, but its crammed into a 1590A and faced component side down. I'd really have to pry it apart at this point to get some photos. Unless you just wanted to see a finished pedal for some reason.

      Here is my build. I left out the starve control as I found it did nothing interesting for the circuit. This has quickly become one of my favorite pedals ever. I've used it in a ton of projects already.

      https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TcJDL1nMpE8/UYbW6QxGRuI/AAAAAAAAAdk/lZbK4FxmqPY/s512/octave%2520fuzz.JPG

      Delete
  15. I don't understand the SW connections.....what are they, halp.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh, holy crap. I'm an idiot. It's for the octave volume. Sorry, errybody.

      Delete
  16. Okay I'm experiencing some goofiness. When I hook up an LED the pedal glitches out and won't make normal sounds. Any ideas?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. From where do you take the + for the LED?
      +m

      Delete
    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
  17. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  18. Just wondering what pot to use if I were to add a volume control... ?

    ReplyDelete
  19. I just built this and after some tinkering I love it.
    Space Commandant, the dirt pot will actually turn the effect down until silenced. I'm a bit of a newb on here but my guess is a 100k would work fine but not sure you need it.

    ReplyDelete
  20. If I had it to do over I would add a 2nd foot switch to turn on/off the octave on the fly like the original has. Maybe I'll rebox it if I end up with something else to fill this enclosure.

    ReplyDelete
  21. Built it, sounds great... but I get constant oscillations when not playing, even when bypassed. The dirt pot will clean up the bypassed oscillation though. It's not related to starve pots, I didn't use one but went with a volume pot instead. Any ideas what could be wrong?

    ReplyDelete
  22. Any chance of anyone throwing up an offboard wiring diagram? I typically use the offboard wiring diagram posted on this site but the whole "two switches" thing is throwing me off.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I came here looking for the same thing.

      Delete
  23. I put this one to the side for a while because I couldn't get rid of the constant whine when bypassed. I took the volume pot out and added the starve, which solved the problem to a degree. I also used a new DC jack but still it whines when I have the starve at anything below full on. I can turn it down if I turn the dirt down as well to stop the whine. If I pull the 4049 it'll stop (when bypassed). Any advice before I scrap it completely?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Try running an alligator clip from the input to the board to ground while the pedal is bypassed. If that solves the problem then rewire your true bypass switch the way mark has done it in his offboard guide on this site. I imagine that will fix the problem assuming you dont have any other grounding issues ;)

      Delete
    2. Sorry it took so long for a reply. It helped somewhat but I added a 100uf cap between 9v and ground and that took care of everything. Thanks.

      I also added the starve pot but used 25k instead of 2k expecting the same results that The Great Destroyer had. Nothing of note happens until the last 1/4 of the rotation, 2k works better, I need to get another one. What a crazy sounding pedal this is.

      Delete
    3. hi, in the end, you switched capacitor 1uf to 100uf 9v?

      Delete
  24. please tell me what the voltage should be the capacitor? Can I use capacitor 0.047 uF 100V? Accordingly 1uf 100V electrolytic? Ah Yes, which type capasitor 47 nF and 100 nF?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. the voltage for the caps doesn't really matter as long as it's higher then the voltage you're going to use. i try to use the smallest physical size of a cap with the highest voltage.

      Delete
    2. Thank you, you helped me a lot)

      Delete
  25. Anyone else getting crazy clock noises? The circuit sounds so cool but is essentially unusable... :( will try swapping out the ICs...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. what resistors did you use? MF or CF ?

      Delete
    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
  26. Rolled up the sleeves and got to work. Swapping ICs did not help. In the end, I fixed the clock noises by adding a 330uf cap between 9v and ground (smaller values did not clear it up) and substituting the starve pot for a 4.7K resistor. Simply eliminating the starve pot and going right into the circuit did not fix the problem. I also tacked on a 100K volume pot. Hope this helps someone. Very cool circuit - thank you for the layout!.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This is very interesting, can you clarify the cap used and its specific placement? Thank you!

      Delete
  27. When you say the 330 uF cap was added between 9V+ and ground, do you mean the cap was placed in a manner such that its leads join rows two and three?

    ReplyDelete
  28. Does the starve control do anything? Mine just makes a weird clicking noise.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Same here from testing on a breadboard. If you're bypassing the starve however, it's probably a good idea to put a resistor (try 1 to 10K) or the it will get noisier than with the pot

      Delete
  29. Yeah I put a 330uf electro with + on the power rail, and - on ground rail, and it cleared up the timer noise completely. I also can't really tell any difference at this point with starve in any position ..

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, but it's not only that, my octave knob also barely makes any difference. I'm guessing it's bad ICs. I hope the buffered CD4040 (BE) is OK to use like someone else mentioned.

      Delete
  30. My octave knob works quite well, all the way 'up' basically turns it off, so I may have 1 and 3 swapped, but in the other direction it's basically all octave signal. I used the cd4040 from tayda, works great. I'm going to try a 5k and 10k for the starve and see if that's any different.

    ReplyDelete
  31. Madness.. constant high frequency crazy oscillations, even with starve to 0, even in bypass, even if I turn off my amp, even if I go outside for a walk. It's out of control, it's the end of the world.

    ReplyDelete