Tuesday, 2 October 2012

Analogman King of Tone

Lots of people have asked for this so here you go.  Rather than internal dip switches I've made the diode switching external using toggle switches for a bit more on-the-fly versatility.  For even more versatility make the switches 3 position centre off and put a set of your favourite diodes or LEDs across the other side of the poles to give you two choices in the flavour of the dirt from each switch.  The diodes are almost certainly going to be difficult to get hold of so I'd suggest experimenting and using your favoured combination in there rather than paying daft prices for something that probably won't sound any better than 1N4148s.  Switch 1 is TS type diodes in the feedback loop, Switch 2 enables shunted diodes similar to the Rat or Distortion + (except to vbias rather than ground).  You can request a high gain version of this pedal which I believe is just a 250K Drive pot instead of 100K so that's worth bearing in mind if you're using this as a basis for your own ideal pedal.

Info about the original if you want to wait 17 months to buy one:

Analog Man, in collaboration with Jim Weider, have come out with the pedal we have been looking for for many years - the King Of Tone (KoT). There are many overdrive pedals on the market, but none of them have been quite right, preserving the tone of the guitar and adding the right amount of overdrive without compromise. There are some good clean boosts available, but they just don't have enough drive to really give your amp the distortion you often want. There are some newer OD pedals that have a great frequency response, but to me they sound too DRY, sterile, and cardboardy. That is where the King Of Tone pedal comes in - it has enough warm overdrive but still preserves the tones of your quality guitars and amps.

Jim had been using an original TS-808 for well over 20 years, it's now housed in a 1980s TS9 case after Rick Danko stepped on it at a concert that THE BAND played. Jim likes the tone of his TS-808, but has always found it loses some low end and is a bit too heavy in the mids. I also love TS808s and have sold thousands of TS9s with our TS808 mods. But sometimes I have wished for a less compressed, more open and natural sound with more of the guitar's actual tone, or as Jim says "you can hear the note better". A Tube Screamer makes it easier to play and sound good due to the compression and vocal midrange boost, but a master player like Jim would often prefer less coloration to allow his techniques and superb tone to get through.

The King Of Tone overdrive was designed to take an amp at reasonable settings, and make it sound like it would sound if it were naturally driven to pure, smooth, tube distortion. It was fine tuned with Jim's 1960s Fender Deluxe Reverb amp to duplicate the sound when his amp is singing, but at lower volume settings - to simulate the natural tube amp distortion of preamp and power tubes. It does the same thing on other amps like Vox, Marshall, etc, making them sing in their own voice. Jim's amp was modified by our good friend the late Cesar Diaz, and is about the best sounding Fender amp I have heard. Later on, I tested the KoT on my own 1966 Deluxe Reverb amp. My amp is stock, and does not sound that great when it's cranked up. It gets loud but not very warm or singing, a little harsh. My amp sounds MUCH better using the KoT for overdrive, then it sounds very close to Jim's amp.  




Original version




Original version with external Presence





V2

For those who want that little bit extra switching versatility.  This version has two separate volume pots which are switched by the second footswitch.  This is a nice feature which will allow you to have a rhythm and lead boost setting from the same pedal.  The extra switch (3) selects whether or not you want the feedback loop diodes being put in circuit when Volume A is selected (red channel) which can give you extra grit in the red channel if you want it, irrespective of the position of Switch 1.




If you want to go the whole hog then V4 includes two complete circuits in one box with 3 pots each side and diode switching on internal dip switches.  You could make it with any combination of external switching you want, but this definitely has the potential for a 4 stomp switch, 6 switch, 8 pot monster if you include all the version 2 options twice.


Video of Geiri's build:


104 comments:

  1. Now of course, the MA856 diodes are damn near unobtanium. I think the closest alternative is the BA282, according to the interwebs. As I said before, this is DEFINITELY going in a 2 in one box with a Klon. Solid Unobtanium.

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  2. If I want to swap the diode switchings, I guess I just need to run a strap between sw1a and sw1b and between tone 3 & vol 1 ?
    On the other side I'm considering outboxing the presence control
    Thanks for all these great layouts

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  3. What do you mean you want to swap the diode switching? Do you mean omit it completely and solder diodes to the board, or omit it and also omit the diodes?

    I did a layouts for an external presence control so I'll add that to the post.

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    Replies
    1. I mean no diodes at all
      To be honest, from my (narrow) experience, I never ear the difference between different diode clipping configurations, so if I can save space for a BB enclosure
      Thanks for the 3rd layout !

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    2. Just leave out the diodes, switches and wires then. You don't need to make short between the points of connection, in fact if you do you'll probably stop it working.

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    3. Thank you so much for your fast answers and your amazing work here !

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  4. This circuit reminds me TOO much of a Marshall Blues Breaker.... Nothing new under the sun for what I see :P

    Great work, Mark, this will be my next project after Dr Boogie and Klon Centaur.

    By the way, could you explain a bit more about the V.4? Can't understand quite well about the two circuits in a box. You mean two original version together?

    Best regards

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  5. Just one more thing. Can't see clear the two stomps wiring. Stomp 1 is already clear, but the second? In version 2.0, at least we can see two wires here, but in version 1 and 1 with presence can't see how to wire it.

    No way how to wire the V.4 :P

    Can you show us a light in the dark?

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    Replies
    1. The wiring for the second footswitch is listed out at the bottom left of the V2 layout. The only other connections required are already shown on the layout, one on the board and one on switch 3.

      V4 is as far as I know, two version 1's in the same box with 3 pots each as per the V1 layout. You can have whatever switches externally you want. The version 1 with external Presence pot has the connections shown on the layout. One to the board, one to the volume pot.

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    2. Thank you Mark, sometimes don't know where I'm looking. Well, 25 BA 282 just ordered. Any suggestion about the 1S1588?

      Now to get some Tayda pots, and in a fortnight will put my hands on this project.

      Best regards!

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    3. In all honesty I'd just socket them and try them with whatever silicon, germanium, schottky or LEDs you have to hand and choose your favourites. Or if you really have to have that type then you'll find them on eBay.

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    4. Thanks for your answer, you're right, i have about 15 different classes of diodes. Some must fit in this puzzle! :P

      See you!

      Delete
  6. Tag.

    I felt so confident about the layout that i built two originals with presence trimmers and (you guessed it, )fixed clipping diodes. For other i used 250K for drive and four 1N60Ps over the board from volume1 to tone3. Other i did with 100K drive pot and four 1N914s the second and third row on the right.

    I personally think that there's no point in taking the presence pot out of the box as it's control is very subtle. Other thing to consider (at lest with fixed clipping diodes), could be swapping the A100K volume pot for linear to gain better control over the volume. There is some interaction between drive and volume pots, so i might swap them for linears - or maybe not :)

    Oh. I also used NE5532s on both boards as for some mysterious reason i still don't have 4580s at stock. After next sourcing spree i think i will have those :)

    These will get chained and they will find themselves in a single box.

    Nice overdrive. More open and less honkin' than your average TS. Single one of these in a B box would be great. It's still an open question how the fixed clipping stages will affect these when they are chained. I think i'm going with stock first and "high gain" as a second circuit.

    Really good, but not super mindblowing. I still would recommend the Gaister over this...
    +m

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    1. Excellent, thanks for that mate. So would you wait 17 months for one? :o)

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    2. No i wouldn't. Nor would i pay anything over $250 for it. Well. I think it's the craftmanship and quality parts, but still... I don't think i was disappointed, but this one - diy. If i had too much money, then i'd still go for the Gainster (which isn't too cheap, or bad craftmanship either).

      This is not bad at all. No, it's basically really good OD, and for some, definitely worth the wait and money. I just don't see myself going for it.
      +m

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    3. Hah! I believe that the unverified tag is below the magic number 10 for the first time ever! I do have plans to handle a few soon, but that 808HW is going to be out of the scope... Mark! Built it, and we'll have 0 unverified by the end of the next week :D
      +m

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    4. Oh yeah, awesome! I'm actually fairly confident on the TS808HW, I may make up a couple of custom size boards with eyelets so I could fit it in a 1590BB. Leave that one with me.

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    5. You can count on that as i only have those massive 56mm tagboards :)
      +m

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    6. Yesterday I built this effect, but (sadly) the Sabro's v.4, not yours, as this is the version I wanted, an prefered de internal DIP as in the original.

      I really don't feel confortable with Sabro's layuouts, even though he's a great vero's designer too. Too many standing components that i really hate, but very compact vero for a double effect pedal.

      Used BA282 instead of MA856 (really similar as Ross said) end AA143 instead of 1S1588, I'm falling deeply in love with these diodes.

      Have to agree somehow with Miro. Would not pay 250$ nor wait 17 months to get one. Wouldn't even dream of payin' 500$ as seen on ebay.

      But I believe is a really cool overdrive, maybe one of the coolest I've ever tried, but expectations were too high due to this effects fame, waiting list, price and so on "legend"

      Best regards

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    7. By the way, and seeing that Miro plans to stick together both pcb's. I've configured the first half as "Overdrive", and the second as "Distortion". It seems that out of the box comes with Overdrive - Clean.

      Using the Overdrive - Distortion combo, this effect is really amazing. Somehow I'm starting to understand this pedal reputation.

      In this last week, with the adition of the Klon Centaur and the KOT, my pedalboard is gettin' deep changes. Really shocking pedals, but by no means willing to pay 1000-$1200 for the pair.

      BR!

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  7. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  8. So to create the V4, you would just make 2 circuits of the first vero layout you have above and connect the output of the first circuit to the input of the second circuit?

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    Replies
    1. Yes, and include whatever additional switching or volume controls you want for each.

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    2. Oh lord, another Vince..... that may be confusing ;o)

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    3. I think this may be my next build. I've been looking for some type of 2 in 1 overdrive box. Any other suggestions on those types of boxes? The Lovepedal Les Lius has been on my radar for a while as well.

      And Vince, you were here first so I'll designate myself Vince2.

      Thanks.

      Vince2

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  9. Hi Chaps, Ive just completed this in the V4 version with one side as standard & the other as high gain with the 250k drive pot. The high gain side works fine but im having problems with the standard side am as a loss as to what's wrong. the board works fine until I try to run through the diodes on switch one & it almost kills the signal. Im getting a signal through but the drop in volume is crazy. I've swapped the switch & the diodes but still the same problem. Any ideas?

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  10. So that first vero up there is essentially a Prince of Tone, right? One-sided version?

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  11. I just finished a double with high gain on one side (I think I'm going to go back and mod it for high gain on both sides). I used 1n4148 for all the diodes because I had them on hand. It's a little harsh...think I'm going to try some 1n34a or maybe BAT 41. Any cap changes that might make this mellower? Great build...Thanks!

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    1. You could try upping that 100p for 470p or even higher. That should smooth the feedback loop a lot. Before you do that - consider trying 1N4001s. IMO those sound much smoother than 1N4148s and they have nice personal characteristics...
      +m

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    2. I JUST did a shoot out with 4148, 4016, 1n34a, 1n270, 1n695, BAT41, green led, red led, MOSFET, and asymetric clipping. By far the 1n4148 was the WORST! I'll try the 4001...I never think of those for clipping just for protection. I set up a breadboard with all the diodes on it to use for testing in different circtuits...Made a huge difference...I may still socket hte 100p and try out a few values...thanks!

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    3. Yes I'm still very surprised how often they're used. I much prefer the 1N4001 over them. You should make an ultimate clipping selector with a line of dip switches like this:

      http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/Layouts/Perf/DiodeSwitcher.png

      Assuming you have the room of course. Then you could have any mix that takes your fancy.

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  12. Build this, very nice sounding OD. Big thanks for the layout! However, have a slight problem with this. Don't know if it is the nature of this thing but i am hearing unnatural sounding buzz in the decay when notes fade off. Kind of crossover distortion or something like that. That buzz is present also diodes lifted (boost mode) so i figured out it could be the IC causing this. Measured it and pin voltages are as they should be, around 4.5 except the +input (pin3) is around 4.1V. Is this too much difference and could it be causing bad sounding decay? I built it without those D5 and D6 diodes cause i don't need distortion side. Just left the switch and wiring off between Tone3 and Vol1. I guess that don't affect the way circuit works, right? Everything else seems to work just fine. Any thoughts about this appreciated.

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  13. I would love to do this with only 1 switch for clipping instead of 2.............

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  14. I might be going mad, but I only see the note about the V4 ("if you want to go the whole hog then V4 includes two complete circuits in one box with 3 pots each side and diode switching on internal dip switches.") and not the image?

    Does anyone have the V4 image? - that one is as the real thing, right?

    (and also what's V3 - there seems to be no mention of that??)

    What's the consensus on the MA856 and 1S1588 then? - is the BA282 a good, similar sounding alternative to the MA856? - I can get 10x for about £3.50.

    I can't find the AA143's mentioned above at a sane price though - anyone know where you can get them or have another 1S1588 substitute?

    Thanks,

    Ian

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    Replies
    1. AA143 is not really a 1S588 substitute, but was the one I liked the most when I tried several ones.

      You can try 1N4001, BAT41 or BAT46 as a closer replacement, all of them very smooth and good sounding.

      BR

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    2. Ah, thanks.

      Is the BA282 an ok replacement for the MA856's?

      You don't have the V4 image with both sides and the dip switches do you?

      Thanks,

      Ian

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    3. Yeah, the BA282 is a very close replacement for the MA's, you can check the datasheets.

      In Harald's web, you can find a King Of Tone v4 vero (20x20). But if you want follow Mark's layout you just have to cut a 18x24 vero and build two equal V1 circuits, one on the up side and the other on the down.

      Dip switches are simply on/off switches. You'll need a 4 positions one. Onn Sabro's layout you'll understand better the use of these switches.

      BR

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  15. Thanks.

    Is Harald's web == Sabrotone?

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    Replies
    1. Ahh, I see what's going on now.

      Are the DIP switches on the original and on Sabrotone the same as the toggle switches on this layout - just swapping in different diodes for clipping?

      So is clean boost on the original = no diodes, overdrive = just D5/D6 and distortion = D1/D2/D3/D4 ?

      Can those two DPDT switches, of which only half of is being used not be swapped for a single 3-way On-Off-On DPDT? - or is that not possible because of the contact points on the center pins being different?

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  16. Hey, I've been religiously following this website since I found it for all the goodies that you post! I just have one question on this particular build so if there is a label next to a wire it labels what it goes to? It looks like things such as Sw1-5 are labeled with wire saying that they go to Sw1-5, which is itself? That is the only thing I'm confused about! Thanks for all you do!

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    Replies
    1. I don't think I did the notation for that one particularly well. It needs to go to switch 1 lug 4 (where you will also see Sw3-2). I was basically saying that like numbers connect together but agree it is a bit confusing.

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    2. Ok, thanks I understand now. My last question is if switch 3 is just a spst on-on switch?

      Delete
  17. neat layout, thanks a lot!
    i was wondering what kind of capacitors you use? i can't find the sweet square brown/orange caps that analogman uses. are they panasonics? can anybody help?

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    Replies
    1. I typically use the box caps from Tayda. Cheap and I've never had an issue with them:

      http://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/polyester-film-box-type-capacitors.html

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    2. Couple sellers on ebay have the panasonic caps for reasonable prices. For example:
      http://www.ebay.com/sch/Capacitors-/4662/m.html?_ipg=&_from=&_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ssn=chinaecomponents
      +m

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    3. @mirosol: thank you, but that link doesn't seem to work?
      @tinkercreak: thanks, that's the kind of caps i've been using. has anybody tested different caps in this circuit? i wonder if these are the ones i am looking for:
      http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf/ABD0000/ABD0000CE8.pdf

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    4. Works for me on Firefox and Opera...
      +m

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    5. ah, i had your +m in there..

      Delete
  18. Finished this today. I used 1n34a's on switch 2 and 1n4001's on switch 1. Also used an NE5532 as I didn't have any JRC... I like it. Gonna try the high gain mod later.

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  19. Hi,

    In V4 Mark said that full complete version is 4 pot on each side with 2 boards...that is confusing since original is just OD (possibly to order it with 3 switch for DIST mode) and CLEAN...and on all videos on net they said that it is clean and dirt...so if I put 2 same boards inside I will get just double OD channel...One thing is confusing since original has 3 pots on each side, if one is just clean why does it needs drive channel?...this pedal is confusion well...can someone write down a guide how to build exactly (not with original dides since they are expensive) the same as original layout...and how to build "original" from 2 boards that Mark have mentioned...

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    Replies
    1. I didn't say V4 has 4 pots each side, I said it has 3. I did say that if you want to you have the option to make a 6 switch 8 knob monster if you like, but didn't say that was a V4. That would give you clean, OD or distortion versions on both side if that was what you wanted.

      The diode clipping arrangement is what makes it clean, OD or distortion, and Mike could have possibly included a larger drive pot for the distortion side to get more gain from the first opamp. But the point with this is you should just build one with the options and switches you would prefer.

      Delete
  20. not drive channel - drive pot...sorry :-)

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  21. I've been working on the V4 of this pedal and I can't seem to get sound out of it. I have only finished one side so far. What is strange is that when I engage (unbypass) the second 3PDT stomp (which is currently not connected to anything but the output of the first board and the signal terminal of the output jack) I get slight sound but an extreme volume drop.

    So I am getting slight sound when the output of the circuit is disconnected from the signal terminal of the output jack. Does anyone have any explanation for this sorcery? Thanks

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  22. Built this one and it sound really great. killer od!

    i had best results with red leds on switch 2 and 1n4001s on switch 1.

    But I'd like to tame a little the bass response. Any Idea how to do it? thx :)

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    Replies
    1. Decrease the input cap, or the 10n at Tone 1

      Delete
    2. I am building this pedal and was wondering if you have pictures of the inside as well as tips as I am setting up the switches right now. I would really appreciate it.

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  23. Replies
    1. Finally I got it boxed with a SHO

      Some pics
      http://alborea.free.fr/Telechargements/diy/IMG_0513.JPG
      http://alborea.free.fr/Telechargements/diy/IMG_0514.JPG

      Eventually I stick with originals caps values and choose red leds for both clippings.
      I did high gain mod to with a 250k lin pot. Maybe Log would be better option as it change a lot in the end of the pot course.

      This thing sound killer with Les Paul and Fender Machete, it will stick on my board for a long time!!!

      Thanks again for all this stuff, you're making me happy ;)

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    2. Nice job, thanks for the pics

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  24. Hi Mark.
    Ref: 2 3pdt foot switches.
    The 'main' 3pdt is not pictured and is wired normally.
    Switch 2 is the one in the picture, lower left and is wired as stated below it correct?
    Also, 1n4148/1n914/1n4001's will work for 1-6 won't they?
    jeff

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  25. i do recomend a C (rev. log) taper for the gain pot for a better sweep.

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  26. I am really excited to build this. I am having problems finding the BA282 and MA856's. I really appreciate your assistance.

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  27. I've done something wrong, but I can't figure out what. I built 2 of them and boxed them together. Used different diodes and IC for each, so they each have their own feel, which is great. Each one on its own works perfectly and sounds really nice. But if I stack them, the noise is just unbearable. More than just OD-into-OD noise. The kicker is, if I touch the enclosure while both are engaged, the noise goes away, which makes me think something isn't grounded right... but I can't figure out what, since they each sound great independently.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You can often get noise due to crosstalk between wires, people mention this particularly with regard to input and output wires. I would suggest ensuring that input and output wires to the stomp switch are kept well separated and preferably use shielded cable which will help prevent noise

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    2. Thanks Mark and Leo - I'll give this a shot!

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    3. Hey Thanks Mark and Leo. I tried the shielded wire on the input and output connections and that seems to have done the trick! It's still noisy when both OD's are engaged, but I would expect two stacked OD's to be noisy - so that's probably normal. Thanks.

      Delete
  28. jaredmcohen,
    I had a similar issue when boxing up a Zen > Timmy and what I did first was to make sure everything was grounded, and since I had to use plastic jacks, I grounded to the back of one of the pots like you do with guitar pots...
    Tested everything thing with a DMM to make sure all points are grounded properly. Then for all of the input wires and output wires, I used as IvIark suggested some good shielded guitar cable like this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Core-3mm-Screened-Cable-DAM-style-shielded-Cable-5-for-three-feet-/321383670746?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item4ad3f5a3da
    and BINGO... the pedal is dead silent unless of course I dime both volumes and gains and dime the treble... then you can hear the normal wind hiss since there is a ton of gain but that is totally normal... Good luck!

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    1. Oh and I used this layout for the wiring
      http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T8OdqPmP_2Q/UG3WZyt28aI/AAAAAAAAC5U/lTz0RyZXAG8/s1600/!Offboard+wiring+-+dual.png
      and btw... King of Tone variation is coming up next on my build list LOL
      Cheers!

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  29. Is there anyone that has a picture of the inside. I would like to see how the diodes are attached to the foot switches? It seems like you put them in the chain order and attach to either post at the bottom. I am kind of a newbee and just want to make sure that I am doing it right. I really appreciate any help.

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  30. I have built the board but need a little assistance setting up the switching. I have all of the correct diodes and the switches. I am looking at the second diagram and was wondering if someone can post pictures of the inside of their pedal or give me a little direction. Thank you in advance.

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  31. I finally figured it out. I wired it after I got my new diodes and it sounds great. I am really impressed. Thank you for all of your patience.

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  32. Quick question:

    When wiring up the ma856s, what's the best way to do it? Just use wire from the switch to the diodes as pictured? Or should I put them on a tiny little vero? I've built some pedals off of your site, and its been awesome, but I haven't done this type of switching, so I thought I'd ask.

    Also, I found a site that seems to have some ma856s.. are these the right thing?

    http://mklec.com/components/diodes/switching-diodes/ma856-panasonic-diode

    I've ordered them, and I have them, but with everyone saying how difficult they are to find, I'm questioning whether they're the right thing.

    Thanks, I appreciate it.

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    Replies
    1. Hi Tim. Those diodes look correct. Easiest way to apply to the switch is to twist them together in the orientation shown in the layout then poke the legs through the switch lugs. No extra wiring necessary.

      If you prefer you could make a small daughterboard, use sockets and wire it to the switch lugs. Then you could experiment with different clipping options/mix and match diodes etc

      Delete
  33. I am contacting you as per the v2 diagram. I have built the board but was wondering if anyone has a picture of the completed wiring that is working? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks

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  34. I am contacting you as per the Analog Man King of Tone v2 diagram. I have built the board but was wondering if anyone has a picture of the completed wiring that is working? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks

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  36. Great sounding pedal! Thanks for the layout. Posted pic and sound clip @ jasonjohnsonaudio.wordpress.com/2015/06/27/king-of-clone/

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  37. Hi
    On the v2 the switch 2 states a link to vol 1, but which one ? Both ?

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  39. Is it possible to use a 4 position internal dip switch instead of 4 external toggle switches? This one appears to be similar to the one analogman uses in the v.4.

    http://www.mammothelectronics.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=840-DS-04&CartID=30

    I'd much rather use this on a daughterboard with the clipping diodes than have the external switches. Does anyone know if this is the part I'm looking for?

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  40. Hi,

    As I made the V2 version of this build, I recommend using a 4PDT instead of a 3PDT for the channel switching.

    If wired as mentionned here, both volume pots will interact with each other.

    To use a 4PDT do as follows :
    - Skip the right most 1u cap altogether
    - Bring the wire from label Vol-A 2 on the circuit to FSw2-11 (new line on the 4PDT)
    - Connect Vol-A 2 to FSw2-10
    - Connect Vol-B 2 to FSw2-12

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  41. Can some tell me what brand and rating the original 1uF electrolyte caps have?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Reply to myself :) Nichicon Fine Gold (FG) series 50V+

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  42. I don't know the answer to that, but any brand will do, and any rating of 16V or higher. The same applies to the other 100uF electrolytics.

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    Replies
    1. I have those, but as these are in all versions physically pretty big caps (especially compared to the 100uF) I guess that he has a specific requirement in mind. That's why I'm asking. NE1 knows the specs?

      Delete
    2. To answer my own question. In most pictures you see 1uF 50V Philips BC and some have the Nichicon Fine gold in them. I'll go for the nichicon's. the 100uf are panasonics but since they're only for the power supply ripple it does not really matter. If you are using an 18v chargepump then be sure to get 25V+ ratings for all parts.

      Delete
  43. I've built quite a few pedals from this site, all with success. So, first off thanks to lvlark for this and other layouts!
    Now to my current woes. This one has me stumped. I've made the full King of Tone in a 1590BB and TL072 chips. The opamp circuit simple doesn't generate the gain to drive the diodes into clipping - currently using 1N4148s. This is happening on both sides. With a guitar driving the circuit I get a massive volume drop. With a signal generator I need to pump in almost 4Vpp before the circuit looks like it's operating normally (as viewed on my oscilloscope). I've run out of ideas. Help?

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    1. Solved. When you pick your parts for a build, don't do it late at night when you're tired. Cap code 102 is not 10nF. It's 1nF.

      The circuit worked. The wrong cap values meant the cutoff frequency was a factor of ten too high. Normal guitar frequencies were being cutoff, resulting in the perceived lack of gain in the opamp stages.

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    2. Thanks for mentioning your solution! I sometimes read through comment sections to learn from other builder's solutions.

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  44. Built a single one with 4 knobs. Presence on the outside is very useful! Two 4001 on one switch and two red leds on the other. Sounds great and works equally good when combined! I need to make another one to have additional sounds of course... Clearly one of the top 3 of the dozens of Overdrives I have owned! And a fairly easy build too. Fits a nicely into a 1590B if you arrange the pots well.

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    1. Oh, and super quiet! No noise at all. :-D

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    2. The "high gain mod" (250k gain pot) makes this pedal much more versatile. Highly recommended! This thing makes pretty much all my other overdrives superfluous... Holy moly...

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    3. Holyver, if you don't mind me asking, would you recommend 250k for both sides?? What type of music do you play? Thanks :)

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  46. To me it lacks a little bass when the od side is engaged. Do you guys have some advices how to get back a bit of the bass? It kinda kills my great strat sound, even tough I feel this will be a really great OD, with some more bottom end.

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  47. analog mike commented on a gear page post that the high gain KOT still use 100k pots. hmmmm

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    1. Maybe the values of the 10 on drive 2 and/or 3 changed then.

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  48. What's about to put JRC4558 instead of JRC4580?
    Or I should better go for 4580?

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    1. No problem. Some love the TL's (TL082/072 etc.) others love the 4580 and again others love the 4558. They all sound great though I personally prefer the 4580.

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  49. Hmmm, does anyone know why mine is popping when I turn it on. I thought the 1M to ground should solve that....

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