Monday, 4 June 2012

Way Huge Red Llama

Info from the manufacturer:

The often imitated but never duplicated thunder of the Red Llama is back! This is not a reproduction, but a continuation of where the groundbreaking archetype left off in 1999. Every single feature that made the Red Llama so mighty is still in place, right where Mr. Huge left them. Season to taste any amp, big or small, clean or dirty the Llama is the perfect compliment to them all, with a rich harmonic palette available on the austere control panel. Spin the drive knob and go from a gentle grind all the way up to massive distortion. Use lower settings for defined open chording or juiced clean tones. Go a little higher for crunchy power fifths, and crank it up for buttery lead tones and tight, bottom-heavy riffage. The volume control sets the desired amount of overall level, but be forewarned: The output capabilities of the Red Llama are legendary, with more than enough gain to force even the cleanest, most stubborn amps to submit their headroom.




Make sure you get the unbuffered CD4049 (CD4049UBE, MC14049UBCP etc).  This one is verified:







Demo of Geiri's build:

70 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. :o)

      You can cut pin 13 or just leave it unsoldered. It is shown in the datasheet as "No Connection" anyway, but I don't like taking 9V to a pin it isn't supposed to be at because I don't know whether the pin really has no internal connections or whether the unused pins are taken to ground or something like that. Better to be safe than sorry.

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    2. You mean pin 12? I think it would be the best to cut it from the socket. May be safer. Will build this at some point. I have "a few" projects going on :)
      +m

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    3. No I meant pin 13 where the 9V supply is and there is a cut shown at the pin hole. You could do the same with pins 10, 12, 15 & 16 too because they're unused, but pin 13 is the one which concerned me because it effectively is sat on the 9V line.

      Of course I could have made the board 1 column wider to put a cut between the pin and the top of the 1K resistor, but didn't see the point in making it wider just for that.

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    4. I can only count it as 12. If left side of the IC is pins 1-8, then the fourth pin from the top on right has to be 12. 13 on the layout doesn't connect to anything.

      I think we're talking about the same thing though. :)
      +m

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    5. Think you're counting the wrong way :o)

      http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/DIY/RedLlamaIC.png

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  2. Ooohh. So it's left from top: 1-8 and right side is 9-16 from the bottom.

    This is why i love this hobby. I learn something new every day. Does that only apply to CD-chips, or have i assumed every 14 and 16 pin IC wrong? :)

    Yes i have. Just checked the datasheets of the usual IC's, and you're right. Like i said at some point, much of my knowledge is based on assumptions - and this was very bad assumption :)

    +m

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  3. Would swapping a 220uF cap in place of the 330uF work alright? I don't have any 330's on hand, wondering if this would affect the circuit too much...

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    Replies
    1. Yes that would be no problem, I used a 100u I think in that build. It's just a power supply filter cap so anything above maybe 47u could be used.

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  4. Would swapping out the 51pf foe 47pf work??

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    Replies
    1. Yes. I don't think that would affect the circuit in any way. 47p is within 10% of 51p.
      +m

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  5. Ha Great got every thing in my stash for this...Should keep me busy....

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  6. Hi guys..

    Have built this, 1 problem as always when I build...

    I am getting no drive. The 1m pot does not do anything at the min its like a clean boost any ideas????

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  7. I'm having issues with this too.. no drive, I have to really hit the string to a short sharp 'electrical' type of distortion?

    I used 100uf in place of the 330u and a 47 in place of the 51p

    Tried different IC's the IC i'm using is a CD4049BE.

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    Replies
    1. B@&llocks... just read about the unbuffered IC lol.. would that be my issue?

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    2. Very probably mate. I've got some unbuffered ones if you want one?

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    3. Not to worry mate, I've ordered a couple from eBay. Thanks for the offer though ;o)

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  8. UPDATE; It was the IC that was the issue. The unbuffered ones arrived today, threw one in and bingo!

    It seems like 'add-dis' problem was the same as mine so maybe that would be worth checking ;o)

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  9. Finished this board today, build it simultaneously with Greer's Sucker Punch. I knew these two would have some things in common and i wasn't wrong.

    When i started out, i ordered a kit for this and i liked it. At the time the kit came only with 125B box, wich i didn't like at all. So i sold it, but it felt like something was missing from my collection.. This is really nice, open, massively boosting, clear and articulate overdrive. Like the marketing jargon says, it's bound to open up any amp with it's massive volume. It's just really good and useful overdrive.

    I'll continue with Sucker punch on it's respective post :)
    +m

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  10. HAHA Vince your right,, working great now....

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  11. http://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/RedLlama.jpg
    +m

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  12. Put the board together but when time came to link in the pots I realized I've been sold linear 10Ks instead of logs. Not very keen on linears for volume, so would using a 100K volume pot work just fine? Or would you rather go linear and stick with the 10K value?

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    Replies
    1. For this circuit, i believe that 100K is way too much. 10K lin means just that you'll be getting more volume sooner on the sweep.

      If those two were my options, i'd definitely go with B10K.
      +m

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  13. http://ubuntuone.com/3GeP88G3W7bLUuAhP4Szyb
    http://ubuntuone.com/0Izo8d11ckxwCWE3poaXia

    James

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  14. Just curious, is this the original red llama from the early days of way huge, or the new reissued one??

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  15. Can anyone give me a pointer?
    I built this thing, but all I get is a huge volume drop when it's engaged. When it's turned off the signal is fine, but as soon as I turn it on the volume drops to almost nothing. I've verified all the wiring and component placement. I verified that I didn't have a solder short between traces and I verified the 3PDT switch was wired correctly with no shorts. Any ideas?

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    Replies
    1. When I've had volume drops the problem has predominantly been because of a less than perfect solder joint. Just try reflowing the solder to make sure all the joints are good, including the pots.

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    2. I figured it out. I was misinterpreting the jumper from 1 to 7 as two jumpers from 1 to 2 and 7 to 9. Once I corrected that it works great.

      Delete
  16. How would I know if I'm ordering the unbuffered chip, is there a specific code

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    Replies
    1. Yup. The CD4049UBE is unbuffered, while CD4049BE is buffered. Seems like the UBE is more common. You can get those from Tayda for relative cheap.
      +m

      Delete
  17. I read somewhere that the Red Llama doesn't work well with humbuckers, is that true? I hope not, I really think this could be a great overdrive

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  18. I just finished building the Red Llama and it sounds pretty good. I haven't really experimented a lot with it, but from what I hear, it's a nice od/fuzz. I did post the making of this pedal on my pedal building blog http://pedalprojects.blogspot.ca
    I've got some high resolution pictures and in depth explanations of every step

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    Replies
    1. Great stuff Dimitri, I love seeing build guides like this. Good job

      Delete
  19. Built this one last night and it sounds great!

    Its a bit noisier than I would like though. Is anyone else experiencing that?

    Maybe it's just that I have it very loosely wired in my test box right now. It's not so noisy that it affects performance but it's annoying

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    Replies
    1. I have the same issue. My build is pretty noisy as well. It's not that I did anything wrong, I think, but maybe it's just the nature of the effect.

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    2. Shouldn't be noisy, it's not that high gain. Try it with a battery and see if that helps.
      Also, keep the wires from the board to the jacks short, and keep the jacks apart more than an inch or 2cm.

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    3. I've built a few of these and they were never noisy.

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    4. It might be that thing about having the jacks too closed

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    5. I tried shortening the input and output wires, as said above, and it didn't seem to change anything. It still has a hiss in the high frequencies. The effect it's self works beautifully. the sound is incredible. It's just producing some noise. Are there any other suggestions

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    6. You could try smaller power filter cap. 330 is quite big.. 100µ or 47µ should tame it down..
      +m

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    7. The weirdest thing happened. I took off the back plate and plugged it into the amp and no hissy noise. So then I put the back plate back on and still no noise. At this point I thought I might of had a loose wires or something, so I shook my pedal around (I know, not the best Idea) but still no noise!!!
      I don't know what changed to make this thing stop making noise, maybe something was touching it wasn't supposed to be, but now it's hiss free and I couldn't be happier!!!

      Delete
  20. I've just built this one for a client..... shit, now I have to build another one for me, sounds f*cking great!

    Lovely distortion and wild boost. Never had curiosity about this effect but, now I HAVE to get one for my own XD:)

    BR

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    Replies
    1. Been on the fence about this one. I think you just talked me into it :)

      Delete
    2. Sorry, I thought that you were a friend of mine using a different nick :) He asked me a few days ago about this effect, so I had a wrong conclusion :P

      And, yeah, you won't regret if finally build this effect, I'm really loving it!

      BR

      Delete
  21. Boxed!

    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=491596734245513&set=a.404470492958138.93220.404417189630135&type=1&theater

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  22. Very nice Javicap! I've got two 1590s that have been sitting unused for almost a year. Maybe I'll get my nerve up and use one for this. There's just little room for error on those things. I did find Madbean's 1590A drilling template recently though so hopefully that will help.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you!

      Yeah, Madbean's templates are great, but he uses 9mm pots and low profile jacks.

      I use 16 mm pots, and regular open frame jacks, so extremely carefull measurement is mandatory, as you can fit 3x 16mm pots, 2 open frame jacks, led bezel and a 17x12 holes vero board.

      Using 9mm pots and low profile jacks, you can fit even 6 pots and a 13-14x22 holes veroboard, but the expense is very high.

      The Red Llama is very easy to fit, as there are only 2 pots and a rather small board (15x9) so no need to look for expensive components.

      Placing both pots at the same height is tight but doable if you take off the plastic cap that Tayda's ones use to have.

      Time ago, I used 9mm pots for all 1590A buils, but finally realized that it was not neccesay at all, so I do in this format just the ones that will be doable with regular parts and 1590B's for the bigger ones.

      One day i'll try a Fuzz Factory in a 1590A, as soon as I get reasonably priced low profile jacks :P

      BR

      Delete
    2. Good information. I forgot he was using the smaller pots so I would've probably goofed. I tend to buy my pots from Mammoth. I just don't like those split shafts on the Tayda pots - the knobs sit weird for me on them. Just a personal ocd thing - I'm sure they are fine for most builders - and I buy a lot of other parts from Tayda. And you can now buy the pot "condoms" cheap from Small Bear if you want them ( which I occasionally do when fit isn't an issue ).

      Fuzz Factory in a 1590A - we'll definitely need pics of that one when completed!

      Thanks

      Delete
    3. And btw, these dc jacks really help in tight spots because most of the jack is on the outside instead of the inside. I have no problem with this aesthetically. I use them in all my builds regardless of space.

      http://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/dc-power/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-enclosed-frame-with-switch-external.html

      Delete
    4. What a fuck, the one I published on Facebook, (the one that was supposed to be for me), it's sold too! :P. Will I be able to keep the third one? XDDDDDDDD

      BR

      Delete
  23. Just got my first pedal compoleted with kind help from Miro.
    Here it is: https://www.dropbox.com/s/j16vg57dhnhqq4c/Blackout%20Electronics%20Red%20Llama.JPG

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  24. Is there any differences between the CD4049UB and the CD4049UBE ?
    regards

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Look at some of the previous posts, this question has been asked before

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  25. I made this along with an EM Drive.

    I really like it but it doesnt sound as good with my single coils.
    I might do the gain mod that i saw Dimitri do on his blog.

    http://youtu.be/OWTejXQTNdE

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    Replies
    1. http://i.imgur.com/ux8Mr0Z.jpg

      Gut Shot

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  26. Can anyone give me an idea of how to create a blend control on this?

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  27. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  28. I'm trying to reconcile this layout with the Craig Anderton Tube Sound Fuzz (I want to add the lead/rhythm switch, which requires toggling the 100K off the drive pot up to 10M). The schematic (and other layouts) seem to have that 100K hitting pin 14 of the chip, but I can't seem to read it that way here--am I reading it wrong (probably!)?

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    Replies
    1. Remember this IC has 6 independent buffers, 2 are used, 4 are not used, and it doesn't matter which ones you use. 14 is the input to one of them, 5 is the input of the one I used as per the GGG schematic.

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    2. Ah, great. I knew there was something I was missing! I knew it made sense, but couldn't figure out why. Thanks!

      Delete
  29. Hi . I tried this one multiple times recently, never succeed. Have no signal when pedal is on . I suspect bad soldering. Precisely because of the ic position. I think the chip is hard to solder because of the jumpers under. The leads are too short and my soldering skills are bad. Do you have any advices please ? Thank you

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    Replies
    1. Maybe using an IC socket would help?

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    2. Yes an IC socket will help because there is a slight gap under the body which will accommodate the links. Another bonus is you never have to apply any heat to the IC itself.

      Delete
  30. Hi, I have built his pedal which works fine but I find it a bit trebly compared with the dry signal, I don't know if it is filtering out some of the low end or maybe boosting highs. My question is if this is how it is supposed to be, thanks.

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  31. Can i use CD4069UBE? i found some info that they are the same just 4069 has 2 less pins

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  32. Not all cd4049ube chips are created equal. Not even all ti cd4049ube chps. I have 2 chips marked ti cd4049ube 02e5fpk-e4 chips that sound amazing in this circuit, and a batch of 10 marked ti cd4049ube 11hmk7j-e4 that make a terribly crappy sound on release. However, the good chips do sound really really good.

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