Saturday, 16 April 2011

HAO Rust Driver

Update 27-02-2012 - I'm keeping these online so that all previous versions remain accessible, but I suggest anyone wanting to build this does so using the new updated layout which can be found here.



and the later version with a 3 position tone switch

Posted by at 14:51
Tags: , , ,

16 comments:

  1. MikeT31 October 2011 at 19:22

    Built the COT50 (version with switch) over the weekend, cool dynamic tube like distortion. Like a one knob tube screamer and a tone switch. I like it... thanks for the layout!

    ReplyDelete
  2. diyer6 January 2012 at 04:32

    This layout is wrong. Take a look at pin 6 of the op amp and see. I need some time to figure out myself but already found a problem at pin 6 -stay tuned...

    ReplyDelete
  3. IvIark6 January 2012 at 09:16

    This one has been confirmed.

    http://nicofxpedals.blogspot.com/2011/05/rust2.html

    If you look at this schematic:

    http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/call1800ksmyazz/HAORUSTDRIVER-1.jpg

    The only difference is that I used the left hand channel first so it fitted in my usual style of doing layouts from left to right on the vero, so:

    5 = 3
    6 = 2
    7 = 1

    So as per the schematic (but taking the new numbering into consideration), pin 6 is attached to 100nf cap, 1n2 cap, 470k resistor and one side of both diodes as shown.

    ReplyDelete
  4. diyer7 January 2012 at 03:59

    Sorry for that post earlier. The layout is correct. I spent a good day going over again and found i wired my IC jumper incorrectly and blew my RC4558P. Luckily i have a LF353P to try and this circuit sounds very good. -Cant that you enough for all your efforts.

    ReplyDelete
  5. IvIark7 January 2012 at 13:41

    Glad you got it sorted out

    ReplyDelete
  6. allbymyself18 March 2013 at 22:26

    Hi there, i just buildt this pedal (not yet put in the box) but it not works. There's no sound, just some pops. I did not understood very well, is this schematic verified or has some problems ( I saw another layout here). By the way, thank you for your schematics!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark18 March 2013 at 22:47

      Yes the layout works, the updated one I did was from an updated circuit, but this still works. It could be literally anything based on your description, so I'd suggest measuring the voltages between the IC pins and ground to see if that gives us a clue where the problem area is.

      Delete
    2. allbymyself19 March 2013 at 18:29

      Hi Mark, i wrote again cause I don't now if you have seen my last post. Ive measured the voltage from ground to each pin. Would you like to help me? Thank you!

      Delete
  7. allbymyself18 March 2013 at 22:52

    Thank you Mark! Well, I found one problem... i use a 500k pot instead of the 470k resistor. Well, I just linked the two wire to lugs 1 and 2...but it have to be wire to lug 1 linked to 2 and other wire to lug 3...right? :D

    ReplyDelete
  8. allbymyself19 March 2013 at 11:31

    Hi Mark, the rust still not sound good. Now I have no sound when played normally, and just a little bit when playing softly or with the volume knob on my guitar rolled down. I've got some pics, would you like to take a look at them? By the way my ic is an LF353N and I've measured the voltage between ground and every pin of the ic as you told me to do. Here's the results:
    Pin 1 8.83
    Pin 2 1.91
    Pin 3 4.56
    Pin 4 0.00
    Pin 5 4.56
    Pin 6 4.79
    Pin 7 4.79
    Pin 8 9.58
    What does this means? I hope those issues could help me to learn more about pedals!
    Thank you Mark!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. mirosol19 March 2013 at 18:47

      Your voltages seem healthy (pin 2 maybe a bit low), and the description sounds more like a bad solder joint. So run a knife through the strip gaps and inspect all your joints - if one looks a suspect, that could be it.
      +m

      Delete
  9. allbymyself19 March 2013 at 19:09

    Thank you Mirosol! I think I'll resolder everything or build another one from zero, paying attention to the solder, cause I've already passed a knife through the strip gaps and no one seems to touch the other but some are very close. Maybe it's my bad habitude to bend the legs of components in a vertical way...!
    Il write you about that tomorrow. Thank you again for you help! See you soon

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. mirosol19 March 2013 at 19:27

      Try bending them horizontally, that way you can have visibly clean gaps. You could try to just reflow the ones that look suspicious.

      By the way.. Why did you replace that resistor with a pot?
      +m

      Delete
  10. allbymyself19 March 2013 at 19:45

    You're right! I replaced the resistor with the pot to add... a gain knob! :D

    ReplyDelete
  11. allbymyself20 March 2013 at 14:01

    Hi Mirosol! Just made reflow every solder on the vero board. On the pin 2 now the voltage is right but, the hao still not sounded, and you know why? The Op-amp were gone! I don't know why...I always put it on the vero after all the soldering stuff is done! Sometimes you really have to swear!

    Now, let's move to the sho superheated! :D

    Thank you for your support, hope to talk to you again!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Unknown25 May 2014 at 17:28

    Since nobody agrees on the switched cap values, I'm going to socket them and try to fine tune to MY ears! What would be a good starting point for values? I'm not a newbie, but haven't built anything in many years, and getting back into it now that retirement is looming...

    Thanks guys! Great site, by the way!

    ReplyDelete

Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)