Monday, 23 March 2020

Fortin 33

"Fredrik Thordendal’s signature 33 pedal is a sonic detonator tool that will transform any amplifier into a metal wrecking ball machine!"
Schematic and pcb available on Pedalpcb website here.




27 comments:

  1. Alex, thank you for the layout. Really radical boost, fun build.

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  2. I'll have to get a few parts, but i'm dying to try this one out!

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  3. Well I'm getting signal through so that's the good part. Bad part is that I get the dreaded charge pump whine (very strong) until the 1044 overheats and cuts out.

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    1. Are you using a 1044SCPA?

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    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    3. I tried using a MAX1044CPA, 7660s, and tried lifting pin1 and using an lt1054. I think there is probably just something wrong with my build. I am able to use a stand-alone 9v to 33v converter (using a MAX1044) where I put the +33v lead on the negative/cathode of D6 and it works fine.

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    4. Hi Convergent Sound, do you means the boost works fine after feeding 33v on vcc? because I had noise & whine problem too, it louder when vol up,
      I read 26v on opamp pin7, got no idea how to suppress noise..

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    5. Correct, on vcc. I used the 33v charge pump from here:https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2016/11/charge-pump-extravaganza.html
      My chage pump was actually putting out around 35v, so I'm sure you can use the 25v charge pump if you needed to. I haven't noticed any more noise than what a boost would normally introduce with the 33v pump.

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    6. Scratch that (somewhat). With the separate charge pump I am getting a little whine that's audible when using high gain. I'll try out some other tricks and report back.

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    7. thanks mate, I'll try later, thanks for the info

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    8. I was having the same issue as well. But funny thing is, is that I hear it with plugins on my computer but not with my amp. The pedal does seem like it cuts a ton of bass out. Is that the same experience you guys have? I get a full signal it is just extremly eq'd.

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    9. Yes, it is supposed to cut a lot of bass for articulation when tuning really low and using a lot of distortion. I had an original for a while and the EQ is on par.

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  4. build it, boost works fine, noise loud specially the vol pot at 80-100%, I used 7660s, maybe noise-gate need when use, thanks for the layout, heres short demo clip : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ck71ERenNMY

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    1. and some shot & a short clip for record here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/4CahnaFRWnwsQ3ex9

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  5. Thanks for sharing Alex. Interesting circuit. I've built a LOT of boosts and this one is nothing like what I expected. FWIW, I used a 7660 and have no abnormal or excessive noise.

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  6. RE:NOISE
    I actually built this layout myself and there are a couple of things you can do to get rid of the switching noise.
    1. use an LT1054 - I've found that with audio stuff, this tends to be the least troublesome version.

    2. move the input away from the charge pump IC - in mine I had the 4.7K resistor connect to track 8 (cutting the track to the right of it)
    and connecting the input wire to track 8.

    3. put a single turn suppression inductor in place of the link going from pin 2 of the charge pump IC to track 6.

    even on the highest gain setting of my axe-fx IIXL+ "Djentlemen" preset there was no charge pump switching noise.
    hope that helps.

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  7. Mine works great, i used a 1044 and 4148’s....no noise issues

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  8. As a boost pedal works ok.Before a Marshall transistor amp gain acts weird.The pot when closed has noise then half the pot its full gain with noise again and then noise reduced but with less gain.If the gain in the amp is half or less works ok.I hear extra harmonics in high E string especially when you bend it.This is not happening with a tube distortion.

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  9. It could be a dumb question but , what are the red squares and dots?

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    1. They're positions where the copper track needs to be cut. The layout shows the component side of the board, but the cut will of course be done on the copper side and so the actual position of the cuts will be a mirror image on that side.
      You can get a tool specifically for it, but it's basically just a drill bit with a handle, so if you have any drill bits knocking around just use those to cut a hole in the copper. And make sure you cut it all the way through so there's no continuity along the track any more.

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  10. I built this with a 1044. Didn't work at first but I had 220k on one strip higher than it should be.

    Works good. I haven't boxed it up and tried it with any of my high gain amps yet.

    I also wired some resistors in series to get the exact values on the layout, heh.

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  11. What is the "CLR" resistor? I'm fairly new to all this. Thanks in advance.

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    1. Current limiting resistor. Choose a value that gives you a brightness that you find acceptable from the LED. I tend to go for 2.2K with the LEDs I use which I find just right, but you sometimes need more for super bright LEDs. Basically any value will do and it's all down to your personal preference

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  12. 2k62? 16k7? Was that a typo? Those weird ass values aren't in the PedalPCB build

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  13. 16.7k? 2.62k? Were those typos? Those weird and impossibly valued resistors are nowhere in the PedalPCB build or anywhere online

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  14. I would really like to know what are these 2k62 and 16k7 actually. I'm almost done and missing only this info.

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