Like the Dyna-Ranger, the Joyride is a highly-adjustable, 3 discreet transistor, warm, organic, and very amp-like sounding overdrive pedal that offers everything from a subtle bump-up with hair, to punishing, highly-boosted over-the-top overdrive. With Volume, Treble, Bass and "Drive" controls, it is very flexible.
Note: There was an unnecessary 22u cap in the last layout above Q1, so if you've built this with the old layout snip that cap out. If you're building this now, make sure you're using the latest layout with just one 47u cap above Q1.
Interesting indeed. Well. This'll have to wait 'till i get my next 25 batch of B100K pots :) Nice use of the 2N2222As.
ReplyDeleteLooking at it, is there a reason for power filter cap to be 47µ? Oh. Just checked the schem an it is a part of polarity protection and not just a power filter. To make it verbatim, one can always stick one 1N4001 next to 47µ cap. Anode to ground. There's even room for it :)
+m
No it's not part of the polarity protections mate, they're just next to each other in the schematic. It's still just a PS filter cap and 47u seems a pretty common value for this (even if a bigger cap would do a better job).
DeleteIn all honesty I'd forget the reverse polarity protection diode though. Parallel diodes without a fuse are stupid because they basically explode with reverse polarity which can take a chunk out of the board. If you really want to add that protection, use a Schottky in series with the supply and you won't have that worry, it just won't pass current. Or if you do want to use a parallel diode, then put a fuse in series with the supply. Both methods with prevent the fireworks.
+1.
Deletealso, from what i've heard about the drive control having alot of gain (and is pretty 'touchy') at the very end of its rotation, a C100K (reverse taper) pot might be a good alternative for the drive control. i might have to build this one since i've known Fred since 1974. ;-)
Good to know. I've seen some schems with cap and diode side by side, so i just assumed :)
DeleteAnd yes. A schottky in series is much wiser thing to do for polarity protection.
+m
So I made this, and I'm assuming it's a mistake i've made as any layouts I've done from your site have been correct and this seems verified.. But I have very little gain, and hear what I think is clean signal coming through. I used motorola 2n2222, and the the only component change I made was the input cap because all I had was a .047uf.
ReplyDeleteCould somebody give me the HFE of 2n2222a they used as well as some voltage readings? Doesn't look like anything obvious..
ReplyDeleteAlso, that 22u elctro, why is that the only seethrough cap?
ReplyDeleteAlso seems like you have the volume and drive pot values switched.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9432&hilit=divided+by+13
The schematic shows a 100K drive pot and 10K Volume as per my layout. But the Drive pot in the ColorSound Overdriver IS 10K though which worked better in that than the 100K (see the comments of that thread), so it could be that you're right. Were you looking at the schematic or the photos of the pots?
DeleteOh and that 22u cap is see through simply because it goes slightly over another component. I always make the caps semi-transparent when that happens so all the connections are still clear (even though that one would still have been pretty obvious, I still stick to the same convention).
DeleteThanks mark! i'll continue going over everything, and I'll upload a video for you when I get it working. IF I get it working...
ReplyDeleteMike, turn the 22u to Q3 collector, it was shown with the wrong orientation in the original layout I did, now corrected.
DeleteIs this layout varified? I'm looking for light OD that can get a little hairy but a natural feel similar to the JHS Morning Glory. Also would this be a difficult build if I've only completed a couple veros? Thanks in advance.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteLooking at the schematic from the topic referred to above (http://www.freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=9206), I see the 22u electro cap to the right of Q3 has its polarity reversed, compared to the schematic. Reading deeper into the topic, I see the person who posted it even comments about that cap:
"I am wondering about C1 in the schematic, it's the 22uF cap, and the polarity looks a little weird to me but that's what the layout is on the actual PCB."
What do you guys think...?
Anyone?
DeleteI built this, and sounds very muddy.
ReplyDeleteBass and Treble control doesn't seem to work.
Got this built over the weekend as I was a bit disappointed in the coloursound overdriver and this is supposedly based on it. Well to start with the gain range was still rubbish (All stacked up from around 8 or 9 upwards just like on the coloursound) and not very usable until I experimented with swapping the gain pot, ultimately settling for a 2K lin, and now it's a nice steady sweep all the way from not quite completely clean all the way through to full on drive, same with the volume, found again that 2k lin gave the best results here as well. Treble and bass do what you'd expect with decent amount of travel to shape the tone, and though the overall character is (Like a lot of drive circuits can be) a little bit thin and scratchy on a totally clean amp, as soon as you get into something that will break up when you dig in then it's more into it's element, nice and responsive to playing dynamics and even when the gain is up around 6-7 it still cleans up pretty well from the guitar down to a nice just over the edge of breakup sound.
ReplyDeleteAnother one I enjoyed testing for quite a while so looks like it'll be another one that'll be getting boxed up :o)