Friday, 16 October 2015

Runoffgroove Thunderbird

Info from ROG website here

John Patton's demo:






40 comments:

  1. I've built two of these using the 1776 pcbs. They are the real deal. My guitar player was running a pile of distortions and has converted to using only this and a few overdrives. I'd say it's the best 'amp in a box' I've come across because it truly does what it claims. A+.

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    1. Also built this one with 1776 PCB. Simply amazing. Will upload some clips which really demonstrate the power of this beast. The gain is so high that the unit adds some hiss to the signal but the overall signal to noise is still great.
      I was looking forever for a strong superlead-style Plexi and this is the one I use today.
      A++

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  2. +1 also on the 1776 PCB. So much easier. But good luck if you're doing Vero. This one does not look fun

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    1. Nice layout
      Fun stuff too lol
      On my to do list

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    2. Nice layout
      Fun stuff too lol
      On my to do list

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  3. ...Have you heard!?
    What's the word!?
    It's Thunderbird!! :P

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  4. Can you post this with just the cuts and links please. There are so many I dont want to miss any. Thanks.

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  5. I assume, i can use normal electrolytics as subs for the tantalums?!

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    1. From the thread at DIY Stompboxes: "Yes, tantalum capacitors have a bad reputation for audio use because they add some distortion under certain circumstances, especially when they have no DC across. In our circuit the tantalum capacitors are used where they belong and where they can outperform aluminum electrolytics: to filter the 24Vdc power supply because of their lower internal resistance (ESR). Only power supply capacitors (1uF and 10uF values) are marked as "tant" for tantalum. All signal path capacitors are suppossed to be aluminum electrolytic type. Perhaps this is not crystal clear in the schematic, thanks for noting this."

      You'd be best off sourcing tants for this build!

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  6. Wow...Thunderbird!!
    Any good replacement of the diode 1n5711 ?!

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    1. Runoffgroove circuits are usually very refined and certain parts are used because of the particular effect they have on the circuit. It'd probably be worth it to track the proper part down. That said, I'm dumb and don't really know for sure. Maybe another shottky diode would work in a similar way.

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    2. Bat 48 is a close match,, but as Charles said ROG will have tested lots of diodes before publishing this design. 1N5711 are cheap and easily available, and I would buy some for this if I were in your place.

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    3. I had great luck using some germanium 1n270 with a .375 forward voltage. That is the key find a sub with half the forward voltage of the 1n4148 for the asymmetrical (Tube-like)clipping. I think I got lucky the Germanium are usually warmer and softer clipping wise. I did order some 1n5711 but i couldn't wait. Ill pop them in when the come and give an update.

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  7. Thanks Bro!!! I from Malaysia difficult to find 1N5711 & Bat48 this.I will buy from china.
    Thanks a lot!!

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  8. Made the vero a while ago. Here's a playthru demo.
    http://youtu.be/AVpHdiKPvlY

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  9. I built it on 1776 pcb.But man o man what a sound awesome.

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  10. Man I love this pedal. I had to sub some 1n270 for the 1n5711 but doubt it makes much difference. This is a great Marshall in a box.Highly recommended build . Its very versatile . The layout is fantastic I had no issues with this one at all. Well worth the time to make it. I spent almost 6 hours on it from start to finish including the custom enclosure i did.Thanks again Alex for all you do. YOU ROCK!

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    1. The 1n5711 came in and i built another one using 2 of them instaed of the subs.To be honest its sounds about the same i do think its a tad warmer with the germaniums . i wont be using the 1n5711 for future builds since i am loaded with germanium diodes in the .350-.400 forward voltage range . I am sure there are lots of other good subs now that I used the 1n5711 in comparison . So anyone making this dont worry about subbing those diodes just find a forward voltage thats close to exactly half of the 1n4148 your using in that spot

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    2. billy, I am going to make this one soon! I have some GE from tayda i think are similar to the 270. I have a few GE from paul at chromesphere to.

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  11. Yeah !!
    Finished and works great.

    Here is a picture of it

    https://www.facebook.com/arnguseffects/photos/a.1720664631524303.1073741833.1718938218363611/1738282679762498/?type=3&theater

    Thanks !!!

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  12. Hi i'm kind of a newbie here. Just got a question the ground to level 1 what is the way to connect it? is it directly from the switch or from where the ground to the board is?

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    1. The bottom row on the right side is ground, so you could use that hole for volume 1 - right off of 220µ and blow 68R.
      +m

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    2. Thanx for the reply. The thing is i tried to connect volume 1 to ground on the output jack where all the other ground cables are but there's no signal coming through. do you think it helps if i wire it like you said?
      ps. I used on of those drone things to see where the signal stops. It stops right after the 10M when you go down to the ground row.

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    3. Nevermind what i wrote. Your tip made it work but theres alot of hisss when the pedal is on but that's just a small problem :) Thanx again for the help.

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  13. Can i use the ICL7660CPAZ from Tayda on this?

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    1. Nope. Sure you can, but ICL7660C will oscillate in audio frequency spectrum causing the circuit to oscillate audibly.
      http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/icl7/icl7660.pdf
      http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/icl7/icl7660s-a.pdf
      as you can see, the oscillator frequency for "non-S" version is typically around 3-5kHz (audible), where the frequency for "S, or Super" version is typically 35kHz (inaudible). So you'll definitely want the Super version.

      Your best bet would be to source 10 or more units through ebay (gladly i've not yet seen a counterfeit 7660S), or get some from trusted shop like mouser, banzai or smallbear.
      +m

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    2. Thank you mirosol ill stock up on the "S" version

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    3. hey mirosol, what about a mas 1044?

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    4. MAX1044 has even lower oscillation frequency. From 1 to 5kHz. http://www.futurlec.com/Maxim/MAX1044CPAa.shtml Then again, it has other specs in different ranges as well. Haven't tried one myself as i'm stocked for life on 7660S'. By just datasheet alone, it would work exactly as non-S 7660. Maybe the lower operating oscillation just means that the squelch is not as annoying as it is at 10kHz.
      +m

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  14. polida 2008 on ebay super cheap ,ali express super cheap as well.

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    1. Do not and I repeat, DO NOT buy from polida on eBay. May of their parts are either out of spec, counterfeit, fake, whatever you want to call it. They used to be reliable, but are far from it now. Remember if it's too cheap avoid at all cost.

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    2. Does Polida still need that extra $3 to get things delivered? It's not even cheap due to that extra registered mail fee. And if you don't pay that, the shipment will more than likely not arrive, ever.

      Aliexpress is another place to get cheap defunct counterfeits. But i've yet to see non-working or fake 7660S. Even the cheapest ones i've got are working fine.
      +m

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    3. just buy from tayda, mammoth, pedal parts and small bear if youre in teh usa. I dont trust anyone else

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  16. Well I did just get a bad batch of ca3080 from polida but i got my money back. I also got a bad batch from aliexpress . I have done at least 25 orders from both with 3 issues. The worst on ebay inho is GOOD-Module they sent definite counterfits then tried to fight the return and banned me. I still have 10 no good chips that cost me hours of trouble shooting . Polida apologized admitted they got ripped as well manned up and refunded my money. No harm no foul i guess. GOOD-Module can suck an egg ha ha .

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  18. Could someone please post their IC voltages for me? I have a Thunderbird complete and boxed but it appears to have some issues. My level control with pass "unity" and full gain gives me a nice crunch but I'm pretty sure that this thing should be louder and more high gain than what I've achieved.

    I'm reading pin1 and pin2 voltages of about 22v and a pin3 voltage of about 3.5v off my LM833 in the LED portion of the circuit despite the fact that the 1776 layout calls for about 12v in all three positions. Hoping that solving this issue will fix the whole thing...

    Thanks!

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    1. When I shared the details of the voltage differences with Josh at 1776, he suggested a closer inspection of the “VR Net” for which might explain the low voltage on pin3.

      By highlighting that section, he enabled me to QUICKLY zero in on a small razor thin slice in the trace running between pin3 and R34 that I must have nicked when I was removing the centre socket of Q1. When I double checked, there was no connectivity between pin3 and R34 so I checked the slice and ground and sure enough, it was shorting.

      By cleaning up the cut, I was able to eliminate the short which restored the proper connectivity so that a quick test on my test rig sounded just like I had remembered it originally.

      I dropped a small bead of clear nail polish over the slice to keep anything else from getting in there, re-tested and everything was working great so I went ahead and boxed it up. I still have some noise in the circuit but, from what I understand, that is probably due to the high gain structure of the pedal so I am VERY happy!

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  19. well..it works and sounds amazing, sweetest saturation ive heard BUT

    the knobs do nothing,literally, and when I turn it off is pauses...


    my voltages are spot on pretty much with 1776 @21.5 or so


    https://s21.postimg.org/pvsov594n/Full_Size_Render_47.jpg

    https://s21.postimg.org/9m2is8ygn/Full_Size_Render_48.jpg

    https://s21.postimg.org/4bxk0ye7r/Full_Size_Render_49.jpg

    other than that its freaking awesome

    help!!

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