Wednesday, 19 March 2014

BJFE Pale Green Compressor

From John K. Info about the original:

This compressor captures the natural feel of your amp and speakers compressing as they are pushed.The PGC really shines in a live situation with a band where the heavier handed compressors, that sound good at home in a room, often sound thick and lifeless against other real instruments… … The PGC is already famous for its nearly transparent compression and dead quiet operation. You will also wonder if its on at all ~ until you turn it off to make sure and then turn it back on as quickly as possible.








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47 comments:

  1. How does this one work for bass? I have an Aguilar TLC on my board that I'd love to replace with a good homebuilt. Any other suggestions for good transparent bass compressor layouts is greatly appreciated. I built a Forest Green for my unc but didn't have a chance to try it on my bass rig.

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  2. IMO, both the forest green and the pale green are excellent with a bass.

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    Replies
    1. Are they pretty similar? Which one would you recommend if I'm going to build only one?

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    2. IMO, it's a 50/50 toss up. they're both great. the forest green allows you to not effect the attack when in the sustain mode, whereas the pale green is a bit easier to dial in a good comp setting overall. I honestly don't know which one I prefer.

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    3. So you're telling me to build both. OK OK if you're gonna twist my arm... :)

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  3. Would a regular green, or a "green water clear super bright" LED work better for this. 5mm or 3mm?

    Thanks

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    1. I used a diffused 3mm green and it worked well, but ended up using an nsl-32 from smallbear in mine:

      http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Compressors/BJFE/PGcomp-02.jpg

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    2. Worry more about the light dependent resistor. The brightness of the LED is far less important than the switching range (dark:light resistance) on an LDR. You can work out the total compression ratio based on that range. The LED just turns it on.

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  4. Awesome layout!
    I am going to make this one... I have a 4 knob keeley that I am not too fond of and hopefully this one is a worthy replacement!

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  5. Build this one today and it works fine. I also don´t know which one to prefer, the pale or the forest green.... Thanks John!

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  6. which NSL32, John? There are 3 of them listed, and I don't see any specs to compare.

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  7. http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=356

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  8. I'm about to build one. I had a V3 Pale Green and I loved it but I feel like (from comparisons) that I would like a V1 with lighter compression even better. Do you think the photocoupler is the key to that? Can anyone recommend one that would result in less compression?

    Thanks

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  9. Just built this. Tone knob doesn't seem to do anything. I left posts 3 unconnected on both rows. I connected both posts 2 and ran them to ground. Posts 1 ran to the respective spots on the board. Did I do something wrong?

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    1. Yes that's right. Is there no change at all?

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    2. I can't tell any difference. I'm trying to convince myself there's a tonal change but I'm not hearing it. Playing a Bass VI through a SS Fender bass amp in my office. Comp and Vol knobs workin great.

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    3. The wife's untrained ear agrees with me.

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    4. Wives are always right.
      Or that's what mine tells me :o)

      Check your other connection then that connect to the tone pot, and so the 22u cap and 2K2 from Tone B and the 5K6 and 100n from Tone A.

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    5. All those connections are solid. I may rip out this 'nsl32' that I ordered a batch of... They're labeled NSL7053 which makes me question its quality. I have a grab bag of photo resistors... What should I look for in light and dark resistances?

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    6. If the compression is working fine then the vactrols are too so I wouldn't bother doing that yet. The tone control is a little side chain which should be a pretty simply part of the circuit. Are you sure the pot is ok?

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    7. I agree with IvIark. your vactrol is most likely fine

      if it helps, here's the schematic that I drew it from:

      http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Compressors/BJFE/PaleGreenschematic.png

      you can see that the dual pot tone control has very simple wiring and you should be able to track it down pretty easily.

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    8. I'm just fishing for reasons to blame that vactrol rather than my assembly skills. :)

      I'll test the A1 and B1 leads coming from the dual and if I see anything strange, I'll swap it out.

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    9. As I had the same issue building mine, I finally found this schematic
      http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lFaW7baQFHY/TxgL2Kh3zLI/AAAAAAAAAoA/iH0mVjiMO84/s1600/FGCC.png
      and tried the non optionnal version with a simple pot. As I never tried the real one, I can't tell if it's doing the same thing onto the sound but, at least, it does something you can hear!

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  10. Can I replace B20K dual pot with two single B20K pots? It's pretty hard to get where I live. Also, if I understand right, I can use either the NSL32 or a photo resistor and a green led? (I'm new to these optical things)

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  11. Would I have an issue if I used a 220Ω resistor in place of the 215Ω resistor in your layout?

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  12. a couple of newb-ish questions: do i jumper lugs 2&3 on the comp pot? also which row is which on the dual pot (when looking at the bottom of the pot)?

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  13. Need some help please. Can i use a NE5532 for NE5534?

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    Replies
    1. NO! a 5532 is a dual opamp and a 5534 is a single opamp.

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    2. Thanks a lot John, Please, do you have sugestions that works fine as subs?

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    3. I meant decent ones easy to find in a difficult country :)

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    4. not that i'm aware of. if I were you i'd just get some from ebay.

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    5. The balance and compensation features of NE5534 are quite unique. There is one pin-to-pin equivalent that i know of, the NTE894. That is probably even harder to source. So ebay or tayda is the way to go.
      +m

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  14. Great pedal.
    I'm using it as a enhancer. It makes the tone so SWEET.
    I wish it had more volume, though.
    Any suggestions to increase the volume?

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  15. I built this pedal and it works well. It is kind of sloppy as it was built when I was newer to building. Thank you for the build. Here is a picture of it.

    http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/denfox1/media/palegreencompressor_zps13c37408.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

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  16. Built the circuit twice. Both have no sound when the circuit is on. I backtraced it against the schematics but found no errors or shorts. 9v and 5v are powering up fine at the op-amp. Any suggestions?

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  17. found out that it works (sort of). Extremely low output at the moment. Practice volume is 2 on my amp. If I crank it to 7 I can hear the guitar through the compressor. Volume knob works on the compressor, tone marginal change on the high end, min to max on the comp knob makes an equally marginal change. Output to ground matches the volume pot value, input to ground is in the meg range.

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  18. Build this pedal today and it works. I've noticed that the volume increases so much if you turn the comp knob clockwise. Is this right? The compression increases too fast for my taste. At 9 o'clock there is a noticeable squish. Too much for my taste

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  19. Hey All
    Does this compressor flip the phase of the signal? I'm going to try to add a clean blend to this circuit, and I'm not sure whether to use the SplitNBlend or the other Ross/Keeley- appropriate clean blend circuit.
    Thanks!

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  20. Hi all,
    From some reason, I am unable to get a clean tone from my circuit. Only a distorted. The more I turn a Comp pot up, the more it distorts (starting at 8 o’ clock). I have disconnected the C5 and R18, and C4, but the distorted tone was still there.
    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Compressors/BJFE/PaleGreenschematic.png
    Any ideas what might be going on? Many thanks!
    ozzy

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    Replies
    1. See my response at the bottom of the comments! That should solve it.

      Cheers!

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  21. Why does it say "buy a kit" when at the link there is no Pale Green compressor kit?

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  22. I have the same problem as ozzy! Any ideas people?
    Thanks,
    Martin

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    Replies
    1. Solved it!
      I just flipped the NSL32 over. +/- on the LED side was in the socket the wrong way around.

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