Thursday, 6 June 2013

Mountainking Electronics Megalith

Request.  To save space I did this using a 3 position on/off/on toggle instead of the rotary switch.  You will get the same selections, 10n, 22n and 33n.  Well you'll actually get 32n with my toggle but it's close enough, although if you do want it with exactly the same values you could always hand select a 22n cap that is closer to 23n :o)  If you want a smaller box than the original, this has the potential to be mounted sideways in a 1590B if anyone is feeling brave, Box of Rock style.

Info about the original:

Create an unstoppable wall of fuzz and vibratory energy, capable of conquering all in its pathway. Its versatile filter circuitry allows for a wide range of tones and textures that allows the Megalith to work well with both guitar and bass.

The MORE HEAVY feature will allow you to cause localized disturbances in the Earth's magnetic field and may cause temporary blurred vision...


So there you have it ... BROOTZ!






102 comments:

  1. wow, thanks a lot, can't wait to build this one!

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  2. Stoked! Just ordered some bc338, so this in next on the list in the quest for galaxy-slaying bass fuzz.

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  3. Sounds awesome. I used all 2n4401 trannies and it sounds fantastic. Brutal fuzz.

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    1. Awesome, thanks for verifying!

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  4. Wow, that was quick OTT.

    Thanks again IvIark, you are amazingly quick with this stuff! I populated it last night, and will be boxing this weekend, or tonight if I get time!

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  5. does it matter if the led is diffused or waterclear?

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    Replies
    1. It was clear in the original, but with LEDs I'd always opt to socket them and try a few. Who's to say that the original sounds as good as it could to your ears.

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    2. Does the LED color really impact the sound?

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  6. just built this one yesterday and it sounds just like the clips of the originals on youtube. i'm going with the rotary like the original since i'm not crazy about horizontal 1590B pedals. BTW, mine seems to work better with a 2N222A instead of the 2N5088 in Q2.

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  7. got mine boxed up.

    PICS:

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Megalith/Megalith-01.jpg

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Megalith/Megalith-01.jpg

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    Replies
    1. Great build as usual John, and the CB30, thanks for the pics

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  8. agoldoor here. Built it, and it is the loudest fucking pedal I've EVER built, in my life... or played for that matter. Ungodly loudosity!

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  9. Jesus f**** Christ! Just finished to build this pedal and is really insane.

    It really shocks a so brutal fuzz, hard to believe until you listen it in your own amp.

    Used the DPDT as after somem measure i realized that it was perfectly doable in a 1590B vertical if not using a rotary.

    Have to paint the enclosure and learn how to use my new Brother PT-2100VP :P Hope I get something similar to what John gets :)

    BR

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    1. Javi, I'd be very interested in your thoughts on that label printer once you label a few boxes... maybe post some pictures in the forum section?

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    2. Yeah, no problem, I'll publish pics as soon as i finish an enclosure with these labels.

      BR

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    3. Thanks!

      Not only does John do great work, his pictures are also great and I cannot see the label border in any of his pictures. :)

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  10. John, where do you get your fresnel led lens?

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    1. Not sure about John, but i've got a batch from Mouser. Cheap(ish). Not china cheap, but still a lot cheaper than from Banzai...
      +m

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    2. Thanks Miro!

      Musikding has them as well but still a lot of cheddar for a bit of plastic.

      My problem with Mouser is the same as with most operations, ridiculous shipping. 20eur for, again, a few pieces of plastic? For that kind of money I might as well order from Banzai/Musikding...

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    3. I get mine from mouser too.

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  11. Ordered parts to build this bad boy. You need to do the magnetar as well. Killer sounding circuits

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  12. Shit, I'm afraid that my power supply (1 Spot) is begining to fail or I have a grounding problem at home.

    Once boxed, this effect sounds just incredible with a 9v battery, but if I plug the 1 Spot I get a really loud squeal.

    I'll have to get a new PS, because I'm getting problems with many fuzz / distortion effects gettin' noisy or just pure squeals like this one.

    BR

    PS Tried a 220uf filtering cap, and the squeal remains the same :(

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    1. Fine, the 220uf + a 220R soldered to the dc jack are wonderful, quiet pedal now.

      A real incredible one, by the way:

      https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=497026047035915&set=a.404470492958138.93220.404417189630135&type=1&theater

      BR

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  13. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    1. How about if you watch the video you like and stop telling people what they have to publish?

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    2. +1!!! besides, that IS the actual pedal being COPIED here. NOT the copy of it. please try posting when you have something to contribute.

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    3. Let me rephrase and reiterate my point. I was trying to say that you ought to put up a clip of the clone circuit and not the original. That's it. I didn't mean to upset anyone.

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    4. the way that it works is that when the vero layout is first posted, no one has built it yet (until it's verified) so you use the clip to determine whether you like the sound of the original or not to see if it's a pedal that you might want to build.

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    5. This thing is massive! I am still battling the whine from a DC power supply but I'm going to try Javi's 220uf + 220R. Can't wait!

      John yours looks amazing as always - what modifications did you do to the circuit? I see a few differences from the posted layout. Just moving things around?

      I love this site and everything about it - you keep me SO busy!

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  14. OK, this was my first vero build and honestly I didn't think it would work :D Well, it does work and sounds spectacular, but I have a few questions: it's not boxed yet, for the record.

    -> I don't hear much difference between the 2 extreme settings on the toggle switch (22 and 32 uF)...
    -> When not playing, I'm hearing a squeal (like a feedback) changing with the Input knob, is it the whine you're talking about? If so, where should I put the resistor and cap on the DC Jack?
    -> About the second LED: how should I wire it so it doesn't light up when the effect is off?

    Thanks again

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    1. I replaced the 47uf cap from +9v to ground with a 220uf one. Te 220r resistor was soldered to the +9v lug of the dc jack, ans from there to the wire that connects to the +9v row in the pcb.

      Yeah, 32 -22 nf don't mae a great difference, only when Notch and Slope lnobsareset very low.

      For the second led, you need a DPDT or a 3PDT stompaswitch but you'll only use 2 of the poles. The first pole as stated on the layout (switch -1 -2 -3), and the second as usual: +9 from dc jack -> Led + > Led - to Switch 4 and ground to Switch 5. That's all.

      BR

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    2. thanks a lot, Javi!

      about the LED, I've got a DPDT and I thought of wiring it the way you've explained it, but that way, wouldn't the "more heavy" LED light up even when the effect is disengaged?

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    3. No, no problem, I wire my double stomp effects this way and works fine. Take in mind that the power cut / connection is made by the own switch (lugs 4 and 5) so it works on its own.

      Only

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    4. OK, back from holidays, I replaced the 47u cap by a 220u, soldered a 220R to the DC jack... didn't change anything, thought i should try with lower hfe transistors (BC338s and 5088)... same... if anyone has a suggestion to prevent oscillation...

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  15. http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/6095/nay6.jpg

    I used 2n4401 instead of bc338 and it sounded killer. I also used a green 3mm LED instead of the orange, but I don't know if that makes a difference. I did socket it though, but I liked how it sounded and I like green in general so there.

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  16. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/tomkogut/photo-20_zps57b5b6ae.jpg

    used bc338's, clear orange led, and a 47n instead of 22n for some really muddy stuff. it rules.

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  17. Excellent jobs, thanks for the pics Jon and Tom

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  18. Evil twins: http://imageshack.us/a/img138/6713/gbj2.jpg

    As I didn't manage to solve my problem (see posts above), I built a second one for a friend of mine: it works perfectly... I've spent a lot of time troubleshooting mine, replaced all electrolytics, transistors, double/triple/quadruple checked the wiring... the only thing i've found is that it stops whining when I bypass the toggle switch (ie if I short Notch 2&3 and Slope 2&3)... if I use a single 10nF capacitor between them, the whining comes back... it only happens at certain settings and the pedal is totally usable, but it just drives me crazy...

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    1. Exact thing is happening to me also. Driving me crazy. Wish I just had a etch mask for this thing to make a PCB. lol

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    2. I feel for you, man... If you ever solve the problem, please report here! Deep deep mystery, to me, both pedals are the SAME, they sound the same (A/Bed them with same settings) except for this crazy whine...

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  19. welp, built this. it whines LOUD just like half the peoples' builds, even with the 220uf/220R fix up top. i switched from BC338 to 2n4401, no difference. what a bust.

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    1. in the gutshot pic, there is a resistor from the "more heavy" lug 1 (being consistent with this layout's labeling) to what appears to be ground. could that be the thing preventing the whine in the original?

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    2. http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p246/brandos_dad/Music%20Room%20Gear/DSC00305.jpg

      for reference

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  20. I found my oscillation was coming from Q2 and I replaced it with a 2N222A and it worked perfectly. I will have to play around with it a bit. Might be gain sensitive like others have said above. Hope this helps someone else. It was driving me nuts since I REALLY wanted this thing to work properly.

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  21. Hey, thanks for this! Don't know if you meant 2N2222A, but I replaced Q2 with one (didn't have 2N222A and actually had misread your message...), it definitely eliminated the squeal and the Input knob has a much more interesting behavior!

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  22. On the dpdt switch 2 which pole is which number are you counting 1 to 6 horizontally or vertically

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    1. I use the same convention on all the layouts on the site, unless I'm staying true to a particular schematic which numbers them in a specific way.

      1---4
      2---5
      3---6

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  23. i cannot get this to work it just makes a fizzy sound can anyone help?

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  24. I don't have a 1m reverse log(Tayda sold out at time of order), but I do have a 500k rev log. Would that be ok?

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    1. It should be fine, it will probably mean that the gain won't go as low as it would with a 1M pot but the full gain sound will be the same

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  25. Ok. Great. Thanks man. Happy holiday .

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  26. So...no bueno. Sat down to get started, drilling the enclose, throwing the pots in. Pffft...don't have a 50k log pot. Is there a substitute that could get me by. I have an A250K, A surface mount b50k, and A 100k Kim...will the 100k lin be alright?

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  27. until you get the correct pot, i'd just put a 62K resistor between lugs 1 & 3 on the A250K to make it an A50K pot.

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  28. Hi everybody,
    I encountered a problem and I hope someone can help.
    The effect works great except of the More Heavy part.
    Everytime I engage the More Heavy switch the sound cuts out and there is nothing coming out of the box. The LED Lights up though
    Did anybody encountered the same issue?
    Circuit board looks fine.

    Thanks in advance

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    1. If you're not getting anything with the More Heavy part turned on then you must have a problem with that section of the circuit which isn't letting the signal through (and so also blocking the main section of the circuit). You must have a build issue or faulty components, but measure the pin voltages of Q3 and see if that gives us a clue. In the meantime too, I would double check the values of all the components you're using around that transistor, and check all placements.

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  29. Thanks man.
    I hope I measured correct:
    Between E and C its 0,56 mV
    Between B and C its 1,55 V
    Between E and C its 2,65 V

    hope that helps,
    I am pretty nebbish so I am not that confident with a meter

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    1. No measure between each pin and ground. Red probe at the pin, black probe at ground.

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  30. Replies
    1. Are they AC or DC voltages? We need the DC voltage reading and if that is, then 0V on the collector definitely isn't right. It's connected to the 9V supply rail via the 51K resistor so there must be a problem with that connection, or maybe something else is pulling it down to ground. Nothing is jumping out at me in the circuit which could potentially be doing that (other than maybe an unwanted bridge somewhere) so that is making the 51K look more suspicious to me.

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  31. its DC,
    I could post a picture of the board tomorrow. I checked that 51k resistor (desoldered it and measured it, that one is fine), I will check the board for bridges and tell you my results.
    Thanks in advance for the help.

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  32. Hi, I checked the board and I didn't find any unwanted bridges.
    I took out the 51k resistor and soldered in a new one just in case.
    Now I have different voltages at CBE.
    C: 0,5V
    B: 1V
    E: 3,5V

    still the More Heavy part doesn't work.
    I pretty much changed every component next to Q3.
    Could it be a off board fault or a broken poti?

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  33. Here are to picture of my board. Sorry for the sloppiness, I am still learning :)
    Hopefully you can find my fault, it drives me nuts.

    http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_18230dseo.jpg
    http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_1824fiskr.jpg

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  35. Hey guys, is it possible to make it any louder?
    I know that it already is loud but I use it on bass and with my active Ibanez btb I have the output volume control at 3 o´clock just to match my clean volume. I was thinking on putting in a external dry poti like the Bass big muff volume mod so I can blend the Dry signal and distorted signal.

    Could anybody give me a hind on how to accomplish this?

    Thanks in advance

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  36. Just finished building this...finally. Figured out a couple of bits where my concentration had lacked and I'd soldered some wires in the wrong places (oops).

    Anyway, only thing I can't get is the "More Heavy" LED to come on when the switch is pressed. If I solder it to lug 2 of the 2nd switch, it's on all the time. I tried it on lug 3 as the other stomp switch is and I get it sort of half brightness all the time.

    Anyone know what I've done wrong here?

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    1. Connect the LED cathode to Sw2-4 and ground Sw2-5. Sw2-6 can stay unconnected.
      So when the last stage is in circuit and so it's in "More Heavy" mode (Sw2-1 is connected to Sw2-2 and Sw2-4 is connected to Sw2-5 in the switch) the LED is illuminated.

      Take the LED anode to 9V via a current limiting resistor.

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  37. Finally found some free time to sort the LED which now works perfectly, thanks again.

    Except now I've got nothing happening when I press the switches...I feel I may have got out of my depth on this one...

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    1. You may have damaged the switch with multiple solderings. Put your multimeter in diode test mode which bleeps with continuity and check the state of the contacts is changing when you toggle the switch.

      In one position lugs 1 & 2 and 4 & 5 should be connected
      In the other position lugs 2 & 3 and 5 & 6 should be connected

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    2. I'm sure the switches are fine. When I say nothing is happening I mean there's no effect (sorry should have been more specific). No fuzz. I can hear a change to the sound when I use the switches and the volume dials work...but not much else.

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  38. couldn't resist showing you this one:

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/118474006@N06/14562304324/

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  39. Any guidance on wiring the notch shift with a rotary like JohnK? I've studied his pics but can't seem to figure it out...

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  40. I wired it like this:
    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Megalith/MegalithRotarySwitch.png

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    1. Let me try that again. De-squealed with all 2n5551 measuring at 170 hfe or close. All 270-ish (2n5088 if I recall) was squeal at all settings. Now my pedal is quiet when my guitar is. I don't have the persistent slosh-hash I hear in most demo vids. Of course I'm paranoid I don't have the same brootz corpulence, so I'm gonna try to inch the gain back up without restoring the squeal.

      Fun pedal indeed.

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    2. Bravo! Bear please update us about your research.

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  42. Is the 1N5817 crucial or is it just for polarity protection?

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    1. Yes just polarity protection, omit it completely if you want

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  44. Have just built a new unit (fith one if I'm not wrong).

    While this is an awesome, gross, fat and loud fuzz, i think is one of the most clear examples of a poorly designed circuit.

    Input impedance can get really low (as low as 47k), and Q2 is really critical, as too high hfe will result in loud squeals and whine, and too low hfe will get a thin and hollow sound.

    For my experience, Q1 and Q3 are great around 300hfe, and Q2 gets best results with about ~400-450 hfe, being cheap 2N3904 chinese modern trannies the best working ones I've found for this position. For Q1 and Q2, both BC338 and 2n4401 work great.

    You have not to forget either, that a higher filter cap and a stability resistor (100-220r) are mandatory.

    After you know all this, be ready to enjoy the most loud and thick wall of fuzz that you will ever find :P

    J.

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    1. Q2 2N3904 get rid of the squeal for me too, thanks. I also had success using BC550's for Q1 and Q3 along with 220uf/220r filtering the power, as several have suggested.

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  45. I don't have a DPDT stomp switch how would i wire up a 3PDT switch? Also is this the only stomp switch on this board or is it a second. Thanks in advance.

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    3. Ok, Managed to get this built and it sounds brilliant. I think this may be my favourit fuzz so far. Second stompswitch isn't working but i used a damaged one with a missing lug 7 and a loose lug 9 so i assume that is why. The LED lights up but thats it. I may change it for a DPDT on/on switch instead or possibly order a DPDT stomp. I used an orange diffuse 3mm LED and out of all the different colours and brightnesses this still sounded the best. The weirdest one was a high/ultra bright pink LED which gave a sizzling fuzz which was quite nice but only for a short while. Recommend building this one if you like your fuzzes.

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    4. Oh, the next best LED i found to give a really nice fuzz was a blue diffused 3mm. The weird sounding pink one was a 5mm.

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    5. Thanks Javi for the info on the transistors as thats what i used. I forgot to add the 200R resistor but it didn't seem to make any difference no squeals or anything just ultra fuzzy goodness.

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    6. Sorry but i forgot to mention that i put 2n4401s in Q1 and Q3 an 2n3904 in Q2.

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    7. Niced to see that you were able to deal with your issues. This board is very easy, but the offboard wiring is a PITA, and is easy to make things wrong.

      Niced too to see that my notes about trannies and hfe were of help to you. Yeah, for me the orange and yellow bright leds make a noticeable difference in sound.

      220r resistor is just needed if you plan to use an external power supply instead of a battery. This circuit is at the very edge of stability and just 1 volt more or less can change things a lot.

      J.

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    8. Thats weird i didn't install a battery because i tend to daisy chain instead and its fine, no interference at all. I do have 34 pedals in a chain with an extra slot to test my new builds. Is this too many? I use a 9v 2500mA power supply.

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  47. Just built this one and had the same issue with the whine and squeal regardless of Q2. I tried flipping it and it seems to work normally now.

    Deleted my previous comment so I could subscribe.

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