Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
A cabsim is theoretically designed to mimic the EQ response of a guitar cabinet, so I'd say yes, it replaces the need for a cab impulse response (unless you wanna go Scholz on your guitar sound :)).
As for the 1st question, if I wanted to add a balanced output, I'd probably check the H&K Red Box schematic and try to adapt it to this one... Or build the GGG passive direct box in the same enclosure.
For the red box: https://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2018/10/hughes-kettner-red-box-mk-ii.html?showComment=1540468734020#c7991046569522358586 or the source: https://i.postimg.cc/TwnqbWnb/H-K-Red-Box-2-schem.png
For what it's worth, the Red Box 2's cab sim mixed with another's (GE200 IR's, Joyo American, etc.) did not sound good to my ears. It kind of added a "blanket" to the tone.
I'd recommend building some of the DIs that are in the tagboard forum or google "Tataylino" and check out his simple DIs. Easy and sounds good to me. I use those almost exclusively now.
i didnt know of that Tataylino Fet DI, but i better give it a try. Here's an opamp version that slightly more complex. http://diy.thcustom.com/download/balanced-line-driver-v1-0-build-instructions/
I do not think so. The opamp that is removed is the one after the first opamp/buffer (U1.2 incl. the 47k/1M to Vb). Would be a weird place to put a XLR out. More likely the line input.
I got this one on my breadboard in a working state. I think the mids should me A10k and not A100k. Also I think that the gainpot pinout is reversed (yes it is conform schematic, but I think there is a mistake there). I am still experimenting as I am not familiar with this effect and I am not sure it is working 100%. I will report back as soon as I A/B it with the videos that are online.
For clarification, in the schematic the circle on the pots indicates Pin 3 (CW) so they are correct now. I learned that the dot/circle indicates Pin 3 but that could very likely have been wrong (and why i usually use numbers but EasyEDA doesn't have a numbered symbol).
Also - in the original Mids is definitely 10kA. It may well sound better as 100k (I've taken it off the breadboard now) but the original is 10k.
yep verified. Although I think we still need to see if the schematic is really correct. It sucks a lot of distortion/overdrive out of highly distorted/overdriven sounds. If you put a angry charlie in front of it if takes out really a lot of overdrive. @Robert Burton aka bobbass4k, do you have any pedal gutshots left to double check the values? I am willing (and hopefully able) to help!
Interestingly, I had the same thing with a number of cabsims that I've build over the last couple of years.
The Marshall cabsim over at Sabrotone that I requested nerfs the distortion quite a bit for some reason, but not as much as Joe Davisson's Cabsim. Lart's Simple Cabsim is the best one I've found so far (and actually sounds great).
I just verified the PCB, not sure what might be different in this particular layout but I'm quite happy with how it turned out. Ran a 'Melter into this, then straight into my audio interface.
Hi BuGG! The layout matches your schematic. I've put it on hold because of the comments here and on the FSB forum but I'm not sure what the correct sound is supposed to be.
Ok, i built this and it seems to be working fine. Doesn't seem to be sucking OD/Dist like Arnold noticed. All pots working correctly. Quite liking this, adds loads of headroom to my sound.
Finally finished this, think a couple of the knobs are in reverse, but otherwise, it seems pretty functional. Not tried it with distortion yet, but I didn't notice a volume drop :)
Ok after playing a while with this and comparing to Condor and Multicab sim I have to say that's more like an equalizer to me.Maybe it needs some tweaks to sound more like a guitar speaker.I've never used the original so I can't have a comparison to my ears.
Apparently I connected all the components correctly, but the Punch and Gain controls don't work. The volume of the pedal is approximately 90% of the volume turned off. Can someone help me?
Too bad it doesnt include an XLR out and ground lift switches. Is adding such feature a hard thing?(genuine question, not whining)
ReplyDeleteYou would need a tl072 n a hand full of components. Probs easier to keep.it off board.
DeleteApakah ini bisa menggunakan xlr? Jika iya jalur mana yang diambil?
DeleteAlso, does this replace the need for impulse response when recording guitar direct in the DAW?
ReplyDeleteA cabsim is theoretically designed to mimic the EQ response of a guitar cabinet, so I'd say yes, it replaces the need for a cab impulse response (unless you wanna go Scholz on your guitar sound :)).
DeleteAs for the 1st question, if I wanted to add a balanced output, I'd probably check the H&K Red Box schematic and try to adapt it to this one... Or build the GGG passive direct box in the same enclosure.
Wow, that simple passive direct box REALLY is simple.
DeleteFor the red box:
Deletehttps://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2018/10/hughes-kettner-red-box-mk-ii.html?showComment=1540468734020#c7991046569522358586
or the source:
https://i.postimg.cc/TwnqbWnb/H-K-Red-Box-2-schem.png
For what it's worth, the Red Box 2's cab sim mixed with another's (GE200 IR's, Joyo American, etc.) did not sound good to my ears. It kind of added a "blanket" to the tone.
DeleteI'd recommend building some of the DIs that are in the tagboard forum or google "Tataylino" and check out his simple DIs. Easy and sounds good to me. I use those almost exclusively now.
So you guys recommend the passive DI's? Where the heck to I get a 10K:600 transformer?!
DeleteKeep it simple: http://tataylino.com/simple-di-box/
DeleteYes, but aint a passive DI with a transformer even more simple?
DeleteSure! Then again, the transformer is more expensive than the parts for the active one. Also it might be a bit bitter to fit in the same box.
DeleteDilemas of a pedal builder....
Deletei didnt know of that Tataylino Fet DI, but i better give it a try.
DeleteHere's an opamp version that slightly more complex.
http://diy.thcustom.com/download/balanced-line-driver-v1-0-build-instructions/
I've got the Multicab sim on vero waiting to be tested... now I'll have to try the Omni...
ReplyDeleteI see here one OpAmp has been eliminated comparing to schematic at freestomp///org (7 at site VS 6 on vero)
ReplyDeleteI am guess the missing OPamp was responsible for the DI's XLR output.
DeleteI do not think so. The opamp that is removed is the one after the first opamp/buffer (U1.2 incl. the 47k/1M to Vb). Would be a weird place to put a XLR out. More likely the line input.
Delete@doxasound have you done the mod for the hoyo that allows you to remove the on board cab sim?
DeleteI got this one on my breadboard in a working state. I think the mids should me A10k and not A100k. Also I think that the gainpot pinout is reversed (yes it is conform schematic, but I think there is a mistake there). I am still experimenting as I am not familiar with this effect and I am not sure it is working 100%. I will report back as soon as I A/B it with the videos that are online.
ReplyDeleteOk, all pins are reversed, so swap all pin 1 with pin 3. Also, I prefer a B100k for gain instead of the A100k.
DeleteThanks Arnold. Would you call it verified after inverting the pots?
DeleteFor clarification, in the schematic the circle on the pots indicates Pin 3 (CW) so they are correct now. I learned that the dot/circle indicates Pin 3 but that could very likely have been wrong (and why i usually use numbers but EasyEDA doesn't have a numbered symbol).
ReplyDeleteAlso - in the original Mids is definitely 10kA. It may well sound better as 100k (I've taken it off the breadboard now) but the original is 10k.
Oh, it's bobbass4k (I forgot I use google login for this...)
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteyep verified. Although I think we still need to see if the schematic is really correct. It sucks a lot of distortion/overdrive out of highly distorted/overdriven sounds. If you put a angry charlie in front of it if takes out really a lot of overdrive. @Robert Burton aka bobbass4k, do you have any pedal gutshots left to double check the values? I am willing (and hopefully able) to help!
ReplyDeleteThe schematic got updated yesterday, so you guys should compare that to the vero.
DeleteHope it's not too different, I just did all the cuts to start this!
DeleteInterestingly, I had the same thing with a number of cabsims that I've build over the last couple of years.
DeleteThe Marshall cabsim over at Sabrotone that I requested nerfs the distortion quite a bit for some reason, but not as much as Joe Davisson's Cabsim. Lart's Simple Cabsim is the best one I've found so far (and actually sounds great).
Curse you!!! Just finished the build!!! Well, at least I won’t blame myself for it not working.
ReplyDeleteI just verified the PCB, not sure what might be different in this particular layout but I'm quite happy with how it turned out. Ran a 'Melter into this, then straight into my audio interface.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.pedalpcb.com/files/UniCab.jpg
Certainly not a "demo" by any means, but this is recorded direct.
Deletehttps://soundcloud.com/pedalpcb/unicab
Hi BuGG! The layout matches your schematic. I've put it on hold because of the comments here and on the FSB forum but I'm not sure what the correct sound is supposed to be.
DeleteAny further luck on this for anybody?
ReplyDeleteNot sure but Bugg has verified his pcb which matches my layout.
ReplyDeleteOk, i built this and it seems to be working fine. Doesn't seem to be sucking OD/Dist like Arnold noticed. All pots working correctly. Quite liking this, adds loads of headroom to my sound.
ReplyDeleteFinally finished this, think a couple of the knobs are in reverse, but otherwise, it seems pretty functional. Not tried it with distortion yet, but I didn't notice a volume drop :)
ReplyDeleteYeah, this makes some WEIRD noises, and half the knobs don't work, need to have a poke around.
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI am a noob :D So, on the resistor (?) next to the diode it reads CLR, is that a special kind of resistor? Or is the value just missing ?
Regards
That's the current limiting resistor for the LED, most commonly 4.7K.
DeleteFor what it's worth, I built BuGG's pcb of this cab sim, paired it with a Frog Pre 12AX7 Preamp, and it beat out my HX Stomp with Ownhammer IRs!
ReplyDeleteReally hope this gets verified so everyone can enjoy the great direct tone. That, or buy pedalpcb.com's pcb!
Hello guys!Is this still unverified?I can't wait to build it!
ReplyDeleteI built it finally.It works and it rocks!
DeleteOk after playing a while with this and comparing to Condor and Multicab sim I have to say that's more like an equalizer to me.Maybe it needs some tweaks to sound more like a guitar speaker.I've never used the original so I can't have a comparison to my ears.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteApparently I connected all the components correctly, but the Punch and Gain controls don't work. The volume of the pedal is approximately 90% of the volume turned off. Can someone help me?
ReplyDeleteyou can tag this verified. works perfect. i've tested this like this
ReplyDeletehotcake-> rat-> deepbluedelay-> cabsim-> mxr headphone amp-> headphones
this thing is great. i love it.
Can anyone post voltages for this? My TL074 is reading mostly 1.3v, as are half of my TL072 pins.
ReplyDeleteCame together quickly and worked instantly. Excellent stuff. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteWould there be any improvement if the pedal would have more than 9v supplied to it?
ReplyDelete