I've heard that in 1991 former Lell engineer went on to form a new company called Rostex. At least that's the rumor and i have no other information about the brand or the pedal. You know anything about these (or have a demo clip/video), please do post it in the comment section.
For the layout, in addition to adding series polarity protection and input pulldown, i subbed the output buffer FET to common 2N7000 pinout.
4-knob version:
And the 3-knobbed version:
(Edit 25.5.2018 23:31: fixed a fault with low wiring and added the 3-knob layout
Edit 29.5.2018 20:35: Fixed 3-knob layout that had a misplaced cut on board image)
thanks Miro!
ReplyDeleteKP303B is a N-ch Jfet.
Datasheet link
And I've seen another version with 3 knobs.
For the FET, as it's only an output buffer, i personally see that as a waste of JFET :) - and thus, the 2N7000 would perform the same. As would basically any n-channel FET or MOSFET. One can use what they want. Just mind the pinout.
DeleteI've seen the 3-knobbed version as well. For the floater schematic, that seems to be exactly the same circuit. Except for the Low control fixed on maximum setting.
I do find these russian circuits interesting as they rarely are just clones of the western designs. With an open mind and one could possible tweak many of those to perfection.
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I'll see the 3-knob schematic in the evening and possibly tweak the layout accordingly for another version.
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there seems to be a mistake with the low knob, according to the schematic low 1-2 should be switched with low 3 and a 4k7 resistor should be added between the new low 3 to ground
ReplyDeleteThanks for noticing! My bad. Now fixed.
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Cheers for this! Love these mystery builds. Just cut my board to size...
ReplyDeleteLet me know if I'm crazy here... I'm populating the 3 knob version and I think there may be a stray cut in the wrong place on the bottom row on the non-component image? I'm guessing that the correct cut should be 6 holes from the left of the board, instead of 4?
ReplyDeleteI think you're right.
DeleteI guess the two non-component sides of the version layout have been confused.
Nowh fuck :) I'll fix them asap... Sorry. been of from doing layout for a while and that's what i get..
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Fixed. *Should* be ok now.
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ReplyDeleteThis forum thread has some photos of this and a YouTube demo, not of this, but of a Rostex Delay: http://guitar-gear.ru/forum/topic/4570-%D0%B3%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%80%D0%BD%D1%8B%D0%B5-%D0%BF%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%B0%D0%BB%D1%8C%D0%BA%D0%B8-rostex/
ReplyDeleteThere's also a schematic on there for a Rostex Turbo Overdrive:
http://guitar-gear.ru/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=42117
A couple more schematics on this Soviet Guitars thread, including a Rostex Distortion and an Anta Fuzz: http://sovietguitars.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?103421.150
ReplyDeleteNice! Thanks Luke!
DeleteDo note that the Distortion is pretty much 1:1 with the Turbo Metal.
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My 3 knob version doesn't work.
ReplyDeleteAll seems to to be ok (first round of classic debugging routine is not giving results), but when I switch on I can hear only some low rustle moving the pots. But if I touch the top of the 4.7 electrolitic caps with my finger, I can hear the distorted sound of the guitar, but very very low and far away...
The caps are ok, the 2N7000 is ok, the IC is ok. The ground is well connected.
It's may 33rd pedal... never happened such a strange thing...
Now, using my audio probe the pedal sounds very good, with a nice distortion, at the Gate of the mosfet, the central pin: after this point the signal disappears.
ReplyDeleteThe cut at the fourth hole from the right of output is right..?
Someone more prepared than me can tell me the path of the signal from Gate pin to Output on the pcb?. Maybe I have the 4,7uF cap faulty..?
ReplyDeleteFIXED!
ReplyDeleteWith the help of a diyer on the web, I understood that the problem was really what I wrote some days ago: the signal was blocked in the gate of the mosfet.
The gate wasn't properly biased, because in the schematic a resistor was missing: so, I just added a 1M resistor (on the back of the pcb) from drain to gate of the fet, and now all is perfect!!!
Now you can consider it (the three knobs version) as "verified"..!
Hi, don't take it as impudence, but can someone please check me? It just so happens that it is more convenient for me to make a print layout. The circuit works, but veeeeery quietly, I checked it several times and I can't see the problem.
ReplyDeletehttps://harlywake.blogspot.com/2024/08/blog-post.html
swap j201 on 2n5457 and volume appear
DeleteIt seems like my j201 isn't working...
DeleteNo great surprise there. For maybe 10 years now J201s have been either dubious quality, or straight up fakes. Fortunately I bought a stash from a known Fairchild supplier before that happened, but if I wanted any more now I'd stick to surface mount J201s (MMBFJ201) and adapters ike this to make them through hole compatible:
Deletehttps://www.bitsboxuk.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3144
These are within the through hole J201 specs and are probably more consistent that the old TO92 form factor
Wow, that's clever, thanks for the info. I'm new on campus, every day is a discovery)
DeleteBy the way, on 5457 it sounds quite fuzzy, different from the original. I have a distortion clone from soviet on к157уд2 and it sounds as a distortion literaly, similar to DS1. But on 201 does fuzz grain appear? I don't know when I'll get 201.
ReplyDeleteApply schematic diagram is not for this particular unit, but it is something very similar.
https://harlywake.blogspot.com/2024/08/blog-post_19.html
oh, and there кп303в
Deleteoh, and others similar schematic says that leds АЛ307ВМ, that's 5mm green
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