Swapped 2n2 and 56p caps in the Treble Switch as suggested by Nocentelli.
Info from the original:
Fuzz God II - the insane silicon brother of Germanium Fuzz God.
It's wilder, it's crazier, it's the loose cannon sonic brother that you wouldn't introduce to your girlfriend, cause you know he'd try his luck with her.
Fuzz God II allows you to create fuzzyness of epic proportions (think red seas parting, burning bushes, pillars of salt etc).
From your classic fuzz tones of the sustaining, soulful, singing kind through to those of utter chaos - encompassing suboctave madness, parasitic sustain and out of control fax machine dial lunacy.
More useable. More interactive. More versatile
Thanks to Jondog for the schematic.
12K has been reported as the best value for R1.
holy cow! :o
ReplyDeletewith built in "moog" :)
Does anyone think replacing the 100k resistor with a pot and taking the trimmer outboard might be a good idea?
ReplyDeleteDeleted my previous comment so I could subscribe.
not sure what changing the 100k resistor to a pot would accomplish, but if you turn the trimmer into a pot you'll be able to change the bias of the transistor, sorta like adding a bias pot to a fuzzface, which this is based on. could be a fun addition, i love it on my ge fuzzfaces. while this is si, so still should be good for getting that misbiased gated, or hot fuzzface tone.
DeleteWow Alex!You have been posting some very interesting pedals!Well done sir!Keep them coming!
ReplyDeleteDefinitely verified. I'm using a BC109 and 2N2222A right now and have the treble and gain switches hardwired due to a lack of mini switches. Very synth-y with the wrath switch engaged. Nice one Alex.... Thanks.
ReplyDeleteAnd why can't I find a decently priced 25k log pot?cheap enough on eBay and Amazon,but shipping is twice the price of the pot!
ReplyDeleteTayda, dirt cheap and reasonable shipping, Not the fastest though.
ReplyDeleteLike my Great Destroyer, Robot Devil and Shiva builds, this one has oscillation bleed through into the bypass signal, you may want to use a 4PDT switch to disconnect the power supply during bypass (thanks again for the tip Synsound)
I usually use Tayda with much success,but they seem to only have linear and not log for the 25k :/
ReplyDeleteI'm using linear tapers on everything except the volume control. Besides the taper being different, it works.
ReplyDeleteAlright,thanks for the input.I'll go with a linear then.
ReplyDeleteI'm still kinda new to all this.
And Tayda is out of both BC109 transistors:/
ReplyDeleteThey've been out for a while now. Use sockets and try different transistors out. You may like what you hear.
ReplyDeleteAlways ready for another fuzzed out adventure
ReplyDeleteAlways ready for another fuzzed out adventure
ReplyDeleteRegarding oscilation bleedtrough in bypass: could maybe the Lehle DC-Filter help prevent this?
ReplyDelete(this one: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/p/forum.html)
If so it becomes a very handy tool for pedals like this.
The reason I ask is that, I suspect Red Witch migt get complaint if they have a similar issue, and that they might have a way of preventing stuff like that, either by using shielded wiring or using a very carefully design PCB design, seperating sensetive sections from the sections dealing with the oscilations.
My logic tells me that, the way a vero is layed out might make it more sensetive to oscilation, since the parts are more "bunced up" than what we see on the PCB... Just a thought...
My original bleeds as well, had it a few years. Very faint but when I kick in other dirt it's definitely there squealing away. Bypass the wrath switch it's gone
DeleteI wired in a 4PDT stomp switch and used the extra pole between 9V and Sputter killing power to the board when bypassed. Problem solved. The Lehle Filter thread just mentions switch popping and is wired to the jacks, I don't know if that'd work. Beavis' Huminator may. I used one in my Crimson Drive but that was only really noisy when the pedal was on.
DeleteA 4PDT stomp will absolutely do the trick. But I would suggest that you connect the wire going from the board to the Wrath Sw2 (or 3) via the extra lugs on the 4PDT, instead of the 9V, so that you avoid having the sound fade in evrytime you engage the pedal (something that very often happens, because the power-filter electrolytics must "charge up" before the voltage passes trough to the circuit).
DeleteWhen wired this way you simply cut off the oscilation when bypassing the pedal, and the result should be instant shutoff and activation without any fade.
I guess you could also use a 3PDT and connect a wire from the Wrath Sw2 to the opposite lug of the LED ground connection to silence/ground the signal running to the Wrath Pot (this is just a theory that I do not know if it will work, but it is worth a try)
I have that charge up issue with the Shiva. In the Fuzz God, I was getting oscillation regardless of the Wrath switch being on or off. I haven't noticed any fade in this one so I think I'm in the clear.
DeleteI'm not sure if a Huminator will help either. Since it's a power supply filter, I guess it should be equivalent to using a battery which shouldn't give any filtering issues but it didn't clean up any bleed through in other pedal (Shiva, Great Destroyer)
Sorry Neil, I take it back. If i turn the sputter control down there is a delay in the effect powering up using the 4PDT to disconnect the power supply. I'll try out how you suggested wiring it when I have the motivation to open it back up and let you know how it goes. Thanks for the suggestion.
DeleteWhere does everybody get their axial caps from?
ReplyDeleteAnd are the SPDT switches on this on/off type?
ReplyDeleteYou mean SPST, and yes those are on/off.
DeleteBut there is no problem using a standard on/on SPDT instead.
Only difference is that with the SPDT you are left with an unused lug.
The result will be the same.
After a using it for a few days, I think using a stomp switch for Wrath would definitely be more useful than a toggle. I'll be rehousing this one in a 1590BB with the second stomp when I place my next order.
ReplyDeleteLOL. I've been looking for another Fuzz God II since I stupidly sold mine years ago and just got one off ebay! (in the mail). I'll have to build this to see how it compares. Thanks for the layout.
ReplyDeleteSorry for some dumb questions but any help is appreciated. The unused lugs on some of the pots do they just stay empty or do you ground em? Also the DPDT stomp are we just using the one side of it? I figured that was the case but I just wanna make sure before I wire it all up. Thanks in advance! Just a ton of knobs and switches I don't wanna mess up haha
ReplyDeleteI think the other side of the DPDT for the Wrath F/S is for LED indication. Leave the other lugs empty. There's no need to ground em.
DeleteHi! Does anybody have the schematics for this built? I am new to pedals, and just want to see how it looks on paper.
ReplyDeleteYou can find it in the Forum section.
ReplyDeleteSearch for: "RED WITCH FUZZ GOD II PCB layout".
So if I use spdt instead of spst,do I still use lugs 1&2 or will I use lugs 1&3?
ReplyDeleteSorry,still fairly new at this.All I have built so far is a Devi Ever OK,an EQD Hummingbird,and I have boxed a one knob fuzz and an Arcadiator.Had a friend build the circuits for me.
Yeah you would use the middle lug and an outside lug. Just leave one of the outside ligs disconnected.
DeleteI think the 2n2 and 56p need to be swapped over. Removing 56p from a 2256p base-collector total parallel miller capacitance is not going to be an effective treble boost: It makes much more sense to have the 57p permanently wired to remove ultra high treble to reduce oscillation, and have the 2n2 switched in for a mellow sound, or removed for a substantial treble boost. Can anyone who has built this confirm or deny if the treble switch works effectively as drawn here?
ReplyDeleteSwapping the 56p and 2.2n works much better as a treble boost. Thanks for the suggestion.
Deletehave a lot to do with it but my build sounds darker, more gain and not very stable decay.
ReplyDeleteNo matter how I set the trim pot, there is some wavering in the note decay where as the FGII (in the less gain mode) with the fuzz have way up has a nice smooth note decay.
I used 12k for R1. All components the same as the layout except 50p for 56p as I didn't have the latter.
The treble switch doesn't really do too much on my build.
ReplyDeleteThanks, I assume it was an error in the original trace - swap the positions of the 2n2 and 56p caps so the 2n2 is switched in or out for treble boost.
ReplyDeleteI've updated the layout.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the heads up!
Hey, Alex, layout still says 12 cuts but I'm only counting 11.
DeleteNevermind, just found #12 :p
DeleteI tried swapping the caps and got a bunch of squealing. It would kind of go away at lower fuzz levels but was pretty persistent.
ReplyDeleteI'm using a regular BC109 and 2N222A so I'm not sure if that has to do with the squealing.
I'm using the same transistors so I wouldn't think that's a problem. I also have my trimmer offboard, it fine tunes the wrath mode as well. Pretty sweet.
ReplyDeleteThe only issue I'm having (as well as my newly built Fuzz Factory) is that it only works early on in my chain. Is that common to Fuzz Face styled circuits? Would a buffer remedy that?i have a Littlle Black Buffer built into my Black Forest, I'll have to try it in front of those fuzzes tomorrow.
I see the layout has changed. Can you just swap the two caps when built on the previous layout?
ReplyDeleteI realized I have the treble switch wires in the wrong rows. Now one side of the switch is fine, everything sounds good, but when I flip the switch I get a high pitched squeal.
If you just accidentally wired the switch wires opppsite it shouldn't matter. I get the same high oitch squeal with the new layout as well.
DeletePlay around with the bias. It should go away.
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ReplyDeleteBias doesn't help. I'm using the layout previous to this updated version. Shouldn't effect anything as the new layout just switches the layout to accommodate the swapping/size of the caps.
ReplyDeleteIs anyone else getting that squealing?
Sorry it didn't help. I get the squealing when the switch is on and the bias is set low. Turning it up helped for me. I used the original layout as well and just swapped the caps.
ReplyDeleteI got the BC109B and BC109C trannies I ordered and still no improvement. Also, my Stutter control cuts the signal out more quickly than the real FGII. I have it here to compare. They don't sound the same.
ReplyDeleteI wired a 10p and 47p in parallel to get 57p since I didn't have a 56p cap.
Jondog has reverse-engineered his original pedal and draw a schematic in the Forum section.
DeleteIf you have the original pedal, could you open it up to check if the schematic is correct or there is anything wrong with it?
From what I could tell, I took it apart, the trace is good, it's the cap values I'm wondering about. I measured a few - my DMM doesn't go below 1nf. The 100nf caps seemed right. The Collector/Emitter cap measured around 2nf, but I didn't cut it out of the circuit.
DeleteI'm using 1nf for the C/E and 470pf for the treble cap.
is there a difference between bc109b and bc109c? everywhere I'm looking just has bc109s
ReplyDeleteSmall Bear has BC109c and BC109b, just got some. I first ordered just BC109s but didn't realize SB carried them.
DeleteJust a heads up, Make sure you catch that cut under the 470r resistor.. I didn't, much head scratching followed by a loud DUH.
ReplyDeleteI wound up switching mine back to the original layout. The sound with the switch on is the same in both layout, right? The only difference is no squealing. The treble switch makes a noticeable difference with the wrath switched engaged, that's pretty much it using the original layout. I also replaced the 56p with a 560p with no real difference. Since all I did was swap the two caps in the first place I was wondering if anyone using the updated layout had any squealing problems.
ReplyDeleteNeil, I interrupted the Wrath 3 wire (might have been 2, feeling too lazy to look) with the extra lugs on the 4PDT switch and it works much better. I realized that it would have a charge up delay when the Sputter knob was turned down, no more though. Much more effective than putting the 9v on the switch. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Jim,
DeleteSame problem, squealing when i swap the 2 caps. With the 2.2n always used no squealing. But Indeed no sound difference with the treble switch on...
So Old version no squealing no no sound difference and new version squealing. Gong to play with bias value to se what append.
Do you have resolve this issue?
Hey thanks so much for putting up this vero.
ReplyDeleteDoes anyone have a good schematic for this - I just wanna see how this circuit looks and how they achieved the sound for my own interest.
Thanks so much!
If you want to email it to me....pseudoinvisible@yahoo.com
Deletethanks!
When I switch on the wrath switch all I get is a squeel and no notes. Does anyone have the same experience?
ReplyDeleteGuys you think it will fit in a Hammond 1590B or i must directly buy a Hammond 1590BB??
ReplyDeleteHi...
ReplyDeleteCan I use BC109a instead of both transistors?
I couldn't find BC109b & BC109c in my area & don't want to order online...
hey man. no reason why not. the letter designation at the end give you an idea about their hfe when they were sorted. bc109a has lower hfe then bc109b, which has lower hfe then bc109c, and if you see ones labeled as bc109 that means they weren't sorted, so you could get high or low hfe. this is the same for all the bc*** transistors.
Deletetnx man...
DeleteFirst pedal I've ever built on a vero, and first pedal I ever built on this site. Man, this thing is fun. I giggle every time I play it. Not really a band friendly pedal as it gets a bit nutty when you turn on the Wrath... but when is wrath ever friendly. Love it, super easy and no problems building it. I'm really impressed with the work you guys are doing. Keep it up!
ReplyDeleteHi guys.
ReplyDeletePut this on bredboard really good tones. My sputter and fuzz pots crackles is this a normal behavior? Sputter on all of his course and fuzz just on start.
Hi all !
ReplyDeleteI keep following this threat on the forum for a few month now, built mine but had the same problems as you guys... will work on the solutions you brought.
But I just realized something while browsing all the schematics proposed in the 4 pages of the forum subject : on the first ones, there's a GF1A diode right after the +9V input. A few schematics after, diode gone ! I'm a total n00b in electricity, but even though people on the forum say this diode serves more as a current filtering, would it also prevent the squealing from getting outta hand ?
Same situation as you.
DeleteI don't think the diode help for this problem. As you said the diode is for protect against polarity invertion. I discover that the first schematic (unlike the second version) put the 56p cap always on audio way for on the treble Boost and it's the 1nF cap that is switched or not. For me i have squealing when i use the second version (And when i use the first version the treble boost isn't audible)
So for me the solution is to use the first version of the shematic and change the 56p cap to a 1nF. (No squealing and noticable treble boost)
Hope this will help you too.
Thanks for that ! I will try all the different options and comme back to you guys !
DeleteOk give us a feedback ;)
DeleteHi all ! Finally got some time to debug it all.
ReplyDeleteConcerning the treble boost, I put a 2,2 nf instead of a 56 pf and it works like a charm ! Really noticeable.
And concerning the general sound problems I had with that pedal : I "just" had completely forgotten to set the bias !! For all the n00bs like me who are not very comfortable with that, it's quite simple : complete your schematics and plug the whole thing on your guitar & amp. Set the pots (specially the "sputter") to a setting where you don't hear a thing. Take a screwdriver (if possible with a non-conductive handle :D) an start turning your bias all the way clockwise (or CCW, whitchever) until you get some sound. And "voilà ", you're set !
I really discovered that awesome fuzz pedal. Really wicked when every switches are on !!
Oh, and didn't bother adding that GF1A diode I was talking about. "If it works, don't ask,why. Celebrate !" is my motto ^^
DeleteThanks for your feedback.
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ReplyDeleteSo I used the layout as it appears now, put a 560p in instead of the 58p, took the 10k off board as an A10k, and used the 12k as suggested R1. It's pretty juicy. The treble boost is very noticeable with the gain boost off, and mine doesn't squeal at all. This is a fun pedal. Too much God damn fuzz!! I love it.
ReplyDelete-Brett
Also worth note is I used bc109s as specified and I changed the bias pot to a b10k. It sounds all around smoother. I also went with a bigger resistor in R1, making the difference between the gain boost on/off more dramatic. You can get some really nice fat sounds with the bias up and the gain boost off, or straight up shred with the bias down, gain boost on, and treble boost on. Kind of reminds me of the Eq cut selection on the Big Cheese.. anyway pretty great pedal. I put the wrath knob on the side with a big knob so I can 'tune' it with my foot. Love it
DeleteJust finished this build, sounds great, but I get a volume drop when the volume pot is at 100%. I get max volume at about 85%, but then the volume goes down as I turn up to 100%. If I plugin a buffered pedal in after it the volume pot works as expected, 100% is loudest. I get the same results with different guitar / amp combos, tested with single coils, p90s, and humbuckers. Any ideas what could be causing this issue?
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