Monday, 3 August 2020

Earthquaker Devices Plumes

Long story short, YATS. It's a nice sounding TS variant.

From the source:

Plumes is a unique, all-analog approach to a classic tube-like overdrive circuit offering 3 different clipping voices, loads of headroom and almost three-dimensional clarity that will push your amp over the edge. The reimagined tone control is finely tuned to sculpt low end, clear top end, and focus midrange with blooming sustain.

Plumes is an overdrive based around that classically overdone tube-like circuit you all know, and amps crave. While this particular circuit has been done to death, we here at EarthQuaker Devices brand of special effects pedals think the Plumes offers an original take on the old, tired dead horse everyone loves to beat on. You can’t get enough of it, so we are giving you some more. Doctor’s orders and what not….

For starters, we’ve done away with the sacred 4558 IC and the classic BJT transistor buffers and replaced them with JFET operational amplifiers and raised the input impedance to nearly 10 megaohms! This offers lower noise, better signal integrity and more chime in the high end. We power this OpAmp by taking the 9v input and internally converting it to +/- 9v to give it more headroom. The end result is a more three-dimensional tone with added clarity that really pushes a nice tube amp over the edge. You might notice how those badass leads you’re always ripping will blast over those awful, no good cymbals your drummer is constantly bashing around on. It sounds like diamonds…a million f**king diamonds!

We’ve also added three different clipping options for your consideration. Mode 1 is symmetrical clipping utilizing a pair of light emitting diodes. This is the crunchiest setting the Plumes has to offer. When played through a clean amp, it’ll deliver a reasonable facsimile of that classic black and gold British valve amp tone. If you already set your amp dirty, using this mode will make it filthy. Mode 2 is clean boost mode. This eliminates the soft clipping diodes altogether and leaves you with straight OpAmp drive. This is perfect for pushing your clean tone out in front or driving the preamp of an already overdriven amp into tasteful breakup territory. Mode 3 is an asymmetrical silicon diode arrangement similar to the stock screamer but with more output and clean clarity; the tone some people describe as “transparent”. It’s almost as if your clean tone is blended in with a slightly less clean tone, ya know? Using this mode gives a warmer low-end response and lower output. It’s less hard on your amp and your ears. It’s a classic pleasant tone the whole band can enjoy.

Not enough for you? We’ve also improved the way the classic tone control operates while still leaving it familiar enough to keep you warm and comfortable. It’s still a safe space, no worries in here. It’s now useful through the whole range. The low end is big and clear, and the high end is bright and cutting without killing the mids. Just the right amount of tonal tickling to excite those ear drums yet still give that familiar mid-heavy drive.





39 comments:

  1. Would you recommend a replacement for the MAX1044 please? Thank you for making this layout

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    1. I’ll try the 1054. Thank you!

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    2. if you use 1054 you have to make a cut on the board between pins 1 and 8, so watch out.

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    3. ICL7660S. The “S“ is important...

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  2. I have to pop in and say that I built the Pedal PCB version of this, and I think it's the best Tube Screamer I've ever heard. Something about the frequency response just makes it sparkle. A great addition!

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  3. Is this based on the Pedal PCB schematic? If so, does the 1k resistor (E4 to K4) need to be changed to 4.7k as in their schematic?

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  4. I was just about to mention this. I have built it using the widely available schematic and 1k sounds wrong there, way too bright. I saw that it should be 4.7k and it now sounds identical to my actual Plumes.

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  5. cheers guys. layout has been updated.

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  6. Hi guys, Are the red LEDs well oriented?. I suppose they should be back to back for clipping.

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    1. You are correct, they should be in opposite orientations.

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  7. Still a small problem here? As per the schematic, the 47k does not touch the 4k7 directly, though that seems to be the case in the layout. The 100n should be between them.

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    1. If you check the layout the 100n is positioned between K3 and L3. K3 puts it between the two resistors.

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  8. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  9. Anyone verify the layout yet? I've built it, triple checked my component placement and knifed the gaps, but I'm experiencing trouble. The Vol pot isn't working, the tone cuts the little volume I get towards the center of the sweep, and it is overall very quiet.

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  10. Try this one below. There's a couple of mistakes on the vero here. Cap on inverted voltage is the wrong polarity, the 100r and 10uf cap on the output is not connected correctly. The 470n for the filter is not connected correctly either. There's a few issues.

    https://vero-p2p.blogspot.com/2020/08/earthquaker-devices-plumes-vero-layout.html

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  11. I didn't build this, but I found some mistakes in the layout.
    The 1k resistor in the bottom right corner should go in the pin 8, and not in the pin 10 and Tone 1. Right now I don't know how fix it, it's a bit tricky.
    The 100R and the 10uF cap in the end of the circuit should be in series, but in the layout are in parallel.
    If we want to add the 1N5817 protection diode in line to the 9v we could move the 9v wire to the other side of the stripe and solder the diode on the stripe with a cut track under itself.

    I have a schematic, maybe old, that is not exactly the same of the PedallPCB one, but this layout, I guess, come from the PedalPCB and probably that's ok. The 100nF as filter in the power section is an added, a good one.
    About the doubler voltage I just can add that PedalPCB has in the bill of material the TC1044SCPA.

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    1. I'm not sure what's happening with the 47k on gain control either.

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  12. Yes, indeed. I thought I got what it was wrong about the 47k but I didn't. So I guess I did it now. RAD and kizzer told it early.
    Anyway, the 47k should be the minimum gain setting in series with the pot resistance, but in the layout the 47k is with the 100nF, in the feedback of the opamp stage, in parallel with the 56pF, and the clipping diodes.
    The 4.7k between the ground and the 100nF should be really a 4.7k like we already see now, it's an updated in PedalPCB schematic. Old schematics says 1k, but it was wrong as somebody told.

    I tried very quickly to correct the layout in my bad looking sketch where I correct also the position of the 10uF and the 100R, and the output wire, thought the 100R is now stuand up and the 100k to the ground bofore the output is half stand up. I know somebody don't like it, but it was the only good way to solve this little mistakes and make the layout work. I hope.
    It needs to verify.

    https://i.imgur.com/P08azyp.jpg

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    1. That's still not right - have a look at the last stage before the buffer again. I can't see it connecting to the next stage properly. The 100uf across -9v and ground is still upside down too. I think maybe someone uploaded a layout that was a draft or maybe a work in progress by accident.

      I have a working layout if you want to make this. (see pervious comment.

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    2. I tried the changes on Elijah-Baley's updated layout. I'm getting more output, but the volume is still not functioning and it has a small collection of other oddities going on.

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  13. Sorry, guys!
    I totally forgot the 1k in the bottom right corner. But I found another mistake. The link between pin 13 and 14 was mismatched and it touched the 470nF-330R conjuction.
    So this is the new corrections, and this time the bottom right corner is pretty changed. I moved jumpers and cut tracks. So pay very attention if you are modifying your original veroboard. I advice to use just that to try the corrections. Or if you can start a new piece of stripboard, in case of other mistakes I guess it won't be so hard to fix it again.

    I attached even a schematic to follow the signal.
    Later I'll try to work harder with the editor to make this layout clean.

    https://i.imgur.com/4X5mf5P.jpg

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    1. Looks right - still has the 100uf on the inverted voltage upside down.

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    2. I redrawn this layout with the corrections, included the orientation of the 100uF. Thanks, Andy.

      I labelled it UNVERIFIED, it could be ok, but we have to wait that somebody build it succesfully.

      Of course tell me if I wrong or I forgot something.

      https://i.imgur.com/M25LZvw.png

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    3. Nearly there. The 10k should go from pin 5 to earth after the 1uf. That looks to before the 1uf.

      https://vero-p2p.blogspot.com/2020/08/earthquaker-devices-plumes-vero-layout.html

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    4. Thanks, Andy. I don't remember if it was an original layout mistake or I moved accidentally that 10k resistor. Nevermind, I moved in the right place, like the way the just updated layout shows.

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    5. All good - either way it's not hard to do.

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    6. Here's my corrected layout starting from the original layout with mistakes by Rocket88.
      With some help I think I fixed all the errors, but until someone build it I label my layout unverified.

      https://i.imgur.com/Ih6kf97.png

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  14. updated the layout to match the PedalPCB schematic with a TL074. apparently the schematic i was working off of was incorrect.

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    1. Hi Zach.
      Very good the way you added the 1N5817 and moved the 10uF-100R in the end of the circuit. Indeed, I stolen your ideas in my "unverified corrected version", afterall is your layout.

      You fixed the gain stage, too, but there are still some mistakes. The 100uf on the inverted voltage is upside down; the 1k in the bottom right corner is in a wrong position; the pin 13 and 14 are not linked and the pin 13 is wrongly linked to the 470nF cap.

      I hope you can fix it better then me, we have to find the way to make work this layout.

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    2. Just curious, does anyone know if there is a verified drawing for this?

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    3. hey elijah. not so difficulty to make those changes. i might be missing it, but the 470nF cap isn't connected to pin 13 due to the cut at H-13. i also moved some stuff around to make the wiring easier too.

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    4. Hi Zach, thanks for the update, your wiring is very nice.
      Later I'll trace it, but I guess this time is ok.

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  15. thanks for the tagboards! do you expect to do the band of gypsys fuzz-face? hug

    http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2017/08/dunlop-band-of-gypsys-fuzz-face.html

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    1. There's one in the forum

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    2. yes i found it, made it and the sound is very very good! thankful

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  16. Built the latest layout. Everything work as it should! Great sounding pedal. There’s so much more gain on tap! Layout is verified! Cheers Zach!!!

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  17. I built this layout and the layout from effectslayouts. Both builds squealed with the pots above 2:00 or so. None of the usual tricks was working, but I noticed that having another active pedal in front of my test rig cancelled the squeal. Placing a regular buffer circuit before the Plumes didn't help, but someone over at Madbean suggested an inverting buffer. I built the "simple buffer and phase inverter" circuit from Parasit Studio, and that solved the problem. I really like the sound of this overdrive, especially with the LEDs. I think this is my 50th build from the layouts on this blog. Please do not tell my wife. Thanks, guys!

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  18. I wonder if the 2 56pf caps can be increased a bit to tame the squealing that is mentioned. In other YATS builds there is often a small pf value cap across pins 1 and 2 of the dual opamp. I have found that going from a 56pf to 100pf or so often tames the squeal. The more you increase, the more highs you tend to lose but you don't need to increase much usually. I usually socket that cap to try different values. Maybe those 56 pf caps are not the same but they appear to be analogous to the cap in the dual opamp ODs. Just a thought....

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