Tuesday, 15 April 2014

Madbean Cave Dweller

Nice sounding mini delay, designed by Madbean to fit in a 1590A box, and after checking with Javi this layout should fit in one too :o).  Tantalum caps or mini electros may be needed to keep things as compact as possible, and maybe a multi layer ceramic for the 1u.

Info from Brian about his original project:

The Cave Dweller I is a low parts count delay comprised of a single PT2399 chip and fitted for a 1590A enclosure. This ranks as a “mediumi-fi” type circuit, meaning that filtering of the PT2399 is kept at a minimum in favor of a small footprint. While you won’t get quite the fidelity of the Echo Base, for example, it still sounds very, very good and offers a somewhat unique flavor of delay. The effect takes advantage of the two on-board amps of the PT2399 for use as input and output mixers. The feedback and filtering are combined in a unique way which produces a slightly different set of controls than the typical PT2399 delay. This leads to some really “haunting” and musical repeats at long delay times.

You can read more about it in the project documents here, and if you prefer, the PCBs can of course be purchased at http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/index.html.  Check out some of his other boards while you're there.  I just bought a Pork Barrel, Collosalus and StageFright from him which are fantastic quality, and are builds that I would always prefer to opt for PCB over vero.






113 comments:

  1. I've built this one from the Madbean PCB, and more than just a really SMALL delay, it sounds freakishly good, so it's not a compromise at all. Highly recommended.

    One question, though.. would you guys consider adding a Cave Dweller II Dual Delay layout here? It's in the PDF ( http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/CaveDweller/CaveDweller.pdf ) but, unlike the Cave Dweller I, there's not a PCB for it.

    "Bonus! Cave Dweller II – Dual Delay
    Cave Dweller II (“Dub Ed.”) expands upon the underlying design of CDI, but adds an additional
    PT2399 for roughly twice the delay time. It also combines the two feedback controls into one.

    An additional mod has been included if you wish to add a true Mix control to Cave Dweller II."

    ReplyDelete
  2. BTW, I've also built the Pork Barrell (horked it good the first time, 2nd attempt sounds great!), a Collosalus (still haven't got it to bias right), and a StageFright which is a GREAT phaser.

    Actually, I think the only things I haven't built from MadBean are ODs, Fuzz, Distortions and small utility stuff because it's so easy to build on Vero.

    Let's see, I've built from Madbean:
    Afterlife
    Bloviator
    Cave Dweller
    Smoothie
    Zero Point SDX
    HoneyDripper
    Karate Shop
    Sharkfin
    StageFright
    Current Lover
    Collosalus
    Harbinger One
    Pork Barrel
    Nautilus

    I also recommend guitarpcb.com for some excellent PCBs. One of the coolest members of the DIY pedal community, Barry, runs it. I have yet to place an order that didn't include some extras thrown in.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes I've bought a few boards from Madbean, some from a few years ago now and most of which I haven't even built up yet :o) Vero sort of took over my life a bit with me, but for the bigger circuits like the ones I mentioned I will always use a PCB. I'll check out guitarpcb.com too.

      And yes it should be no problem doing the Cave Dweller II. The board is going to be double the number of rows of course and I'll probably need a few extra columns but it's still going to fit in a 1590BB no problem, and maybe even a 1590B at a push

      Delete
    2. How is that Harbinger One? Does it nail a good ol univibe? I have the PCB but I keep getting distracted here with Vero builds LOL

      Delete
    3. I had it working for a *very* short period of time, Leon. I tried to house it in a 1590BB enclosure that I had paid extra for a beautiful coating and had it pre-drilled (a luxury for me since I hate drilling enclosures but I'm a cheap bastard)... I had wanted a Univibe pedal for a LONG time :p

      So, when it came time to box it, I found that the height was a tiny bit too much for the enclosure size, so, like the idiot I can sometimes be, I figured it could take a little bit of crushing. Long story short.. it can't. I've spent the time since occasionally pulling it back out going over it again, but after replacing all of the socketed components I still haven't managed to get it working again. There's a tiny something somewhere on that board causing it to do random stuff (mostly plain out not working). :/

      I'm pretty sure I'll order another one from Madbean next time I order from him, and try it again, as I recall it sounded very VERY good.

      Delete
  3. another PT2399 project :), wish a reverb project from this chip :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I remember seeing a PT2399 reverb circuit somewhere when I was looking for reverb projects. Not sure where I saw it though...

      Delete
    2. http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/box-of-hall-reverb-culturejam.html

      Delete
    3. Box of Hall Reverb - culturejam is still using belton, i mean i've ever seen reverb schematic using PT2399, info from the developer the reverbs like a spring reverb...

      Delete
    4. This one is a pt2399 verb. Well, sort of.
      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/03/ersatz-verben-psuedo-reverb-by.html

      Delete
    5. Yep, LazyS is correct, I was thinking of the wrong one. Should have looked closer before I posted. :p

      Delete
  4. i think this pedal will nail the old live sound Rush had on Xanadu, killer layout :P

    ReplyDelete
  5. The repeats of this delay sound great but the dry signal becomes muddy and undefined. This is exacerbated greatly with the use of any distortion

    It's a shame because one could easily add a good blend but then you're stuck with the other two controls which now just don't make sense..

    The cave dweller II looks great. I think I'll give that a try, but I do not recommend this build

    ReplyDelete
  6. I built a Cave Dweller and a Box of Hall w/ Dwell (per John Kallas layout), with an effect order switch and an infinite repeat/feedback momentary switch not that long ago.
    I absolutely love the combination.
    What better way to illustrate this pedal combo than the Grand Canyon?

    http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y137/westerton/IMG_20140318_083439.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  7. I used to have a BBE Two Timer and really liked the switching concept. Footswitch 1 selected between two different delays, and footswitch 2 turned the pedal on and off. I think the advantage over typical dual-effect wiring is that only 1 of the delays can be engaged at a time, and if you accidentally enable a second delay even for a second, it's going to linger. Footswitch one had 2 LEDs (to indicate which board was active, so one of them was always lit), and footswitch 2 just had a typical on/off LED.

    Any chance anyone knows how to wire something like that? I'd love to build 2 of these boards and put them in a (large) box. Having 2 delays came in really handy at gigs, since I didn't have to fiddle with settings between songs or mid-song.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I worked this up today: http://www.jaredmcohen.com/storage/dual_pedal_wiring_idea.png

      Just based on the Beavis 2-LED switcher and the standard wiring I use from this site. Anyone willing to take a look and see if I've done anything ridiculously wrong? Thanks!

      Delete
    2. From your description, I think the Build Your Own Clone A/B true bypass looper does exactly what you want. Google for the pdf build instructions to check it out. Instead of the send and return jacks, you just hardwire to your two effect boards.
      (I didn't compare it to your drawing, so it could be exactly the same. My mind is not capable of following complex switching schemes :-p ).

      Delete
  8. I don't think the two timer is actually two separate delay circuits. I think it just switches between two different delay times

    You can do this by wiring two separate pots for delay time on a switch. Very easy

    ReplyDelete
  9. I built this and it is not working. I only had time to check for shorts and there didn't seem to be any. I will post voltages later when I have a chance to do a thorough troubleshoot. Its probably something I messed up but I was just wondering if anyone else has had a go at this one yet.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Just built this and mine is not working either.
    I've checked all components, potential solder bridges and so on, but nothing helped.
    I suspect that there is some connection to ground that should not be there, since it is dead quiet.
    I will check it up against the schematic later today, to see if I spot any mistakes, but at the moment I suspect that the error lies in the vero-layout

    ReplyDelete
  11. I missed echo 3 to dwell 3 but it still doesn't work. Voltages are as follows
    1 4.93
    2 2.46
    3 0
    4 0
    5 3.15
    6 2.46
    7 4.54
    8 4.53
    9 2.3
    10 2.3
    11 2.3
    12 2.3
    13 .001
    14 4.9
    15 2.46
    16 2.46

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 13 and 14 look suspicious to me, they should be similar to the surrounding voltages. Check connections on those rows

      Delete
    2. Yeah there was a tiny bridge between the two tracks that wasn't showing up on the DMM. I swapped the pt and now I'm getting delayed noise!!! The guitar signal isn't coming through though so I guess I'll have to do some more troubleshooting tonight after work.

      Delete
    3. I cleaned out all the tracks with a knife and my signal still must be going to ground. When I plug it in I get noise. When I remove the battery or the circuit ground the clean guitar signal comes through. I will have to check voltages again when I get a chance. Is it possible something on the layout is going to ground that shouldn't? I compared the layout to the schematic and it didn't look like there was anything extra going to ground but I also got really confused halfway through... Hopefully it's something really simple like I just put a wire in the wrong place or something... I've plugged input and output in backwards before but I doublechecked that so I don't think that is the issue this time.

      Delete
    4. Also I broke out the audio probe and didn't get any guitar signal beyond the input cap. Nothing at the other end of the 750k but noise (I approximated a 750k by using 220k and 510k) on pins 9-16 I got repetitive thumping like the delay is working on noise not guitar signal but none of it is getting to the output. The thumping was responsive to the time pot. I also used a 2.2k where it says 2k since I didn't have a 2k I doubt that would cause a problem but I suppose it's worth noting just in case.

      Delete
  12. Found it!
    C15 (100nf) from the schematic is missing!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nice! Thank you. Next time I will go through the list of parts values and compare it to the schematic... I've been looking at the schematic for a while and not seeing anything.

      Delete
    2. The 4n7 at pin 13 should be tied back to the junction of the 10k resistors from pin 14 and 15.

      Delete
  13. Another error is that Echo 1 and Dwell 1 is connected on the vero, and it should be Echo 3 and Dwell 3.
    Seems like the problem is located in this area (upper right corner where the Echo and Dwell pots are connected).
    I guess that it might be difficult to fix it with the current layout, since it looks like there is more than one thing that is wrong.
    Hopefully Mark will pop in soon and give his opinion about how to fix it...
    Damn it feels good when you finally see the problem.
    Thanks to this site I am learning faster than I ever dreamed of when I started building pedals!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Echo 1 and Dwell 1 are both connected, they're both grounded. Echo 3 to Dwell 3 in the notes.

      The schematic I did this from doesn't have a C15 but judging by the numbering I think that will be a 100n filter cap possibly on the 5V line which won't matter, there is already a 10u filter on the 5V line.

      The 4n7 is correct in between 13 & 14, but there is no link back to 13 from R4. I'll amend the layout but if you want a quick fix just put a little link from the 3rd row from bottom, to the bottom of the 4n7 at pin 13.

      Delete
    2. Yes, of course I see it now that it's a ground connection, my bad...
      Thanks alot for the input Mark, I will try the quick fix and see hot it turns out.

      Delete
    3. That's what I meant with the 4n7 at pin 13. Thanks, can't wait to get home from work and get my Cavedweller running!

      Delete
    4. OK layout corrected. Thanks for the debug guys, sometimes these things just blur into one big layout :o)

      Delete
  14. C15 goes where the 2k and 10n to ground connect from pin 11 the other end of c15 is at dwell 3. series connection from pin 11: 10n-1k-2k-100n(C15)-dwell pin 3 with 47n to ground at 1k-2k junction 10n to ground at 2k-100n junction.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Aah right, found it now. Correction up in a couple on secs

      Delete
    2. Correction made. To do it with your board you'll either need to move the link and the 10n cap to ground to the new position shown in the layout, or put it in the two space available on that row, and use a dremel or similar to make a cut between the two sides of the cap, or maybe just solder one side of the cap to the board and the other directly to the Echo 3 wire.

      Delete
  15. Replies
    1. Nice one Luke I'll tag it. Bloody hell this one was hard work for a relatively simple one! :o)

      Delete
    2. My first verify on the main site! Now I'm going to go see how it likes the grind customs modulation board

      Delete
  16. Ok, so it now says "six links" but shows 3.

    ReplyDelete
  17. The links under the ic are missing from the layout.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ha ha. Jeez this has been my Friday the 13th layout!

      Delete
  18. I think the right hand link on the fourth row down needs to move one space to the right and the 470k needs to move one space left for the dwell to function.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ha ha, you're right in terms of the resistor, the cut needs to be between the 470K and 100n. I can't believe how many problems this layout has given me. I think instead of trying to fix it in the first place I should have just started again from scratch with this one. Probably the easiest delay layout on the site and every time I fixed something I seemed to break something else :o)

      Delete
  19. I have been working with the first layout, trying to make the changes to get it right. I finally broke down and looked at the schematic.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Been fooling around with this since I finished it. IMHO it benefits greatly from adding the split 'n' blend (http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/split-n-blend.html).
    I changed the time pot to an A20K which suits my style a little better. Today I am going to change the B100K on the split 'n' blend to keep it more dry in the majority of the range.
    I may also fool with setting some minimum resistances on the echo and dwell pots to keep them out of the extremes where things go a little crazy. Overall though this thing is really cool for how simple it is, and a nice platform for experimentation. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  21. Just built it with all the updates and I can confirm that it's all working fine. It's really fun to play with for such a simple design

    ReplyDelete
  22. Can you recommend to me analog of transistor 78L05?

    ReplyDelete
  23. done! gift for a friend! very nice one. used 100k for time as i did with DBD too. maybe it distorts a lot with that, but i like longer delay times! i really loved the echo pot! i've put both delays(this one and deep blue) in a combat and that was what i really liked from that little thing! i think i;ll built one for me too...!thanks guys!

    ReplyDelete
  24. built it, but it's very noisy.
    and it will only start when i use my DMM between ground and leg 11 on IC :S
    it gives a POP and works again, but sound is very low, i have to turn volume on amp up pretty much.
    and if i put my finger on 750K the noise almost disappears.

    i think i got several faults :(

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I had a similar problem: it refused to work until I shorted pins I and G of the regulator. This way starded to work, until I removed the power supply. If plugged again, same situation: shorting I+G made the effect start to work.

      Obviously, the problem was the 10uF cap between G and O of the regulator. Swapped it with a new one, and problem solved. Anyway check voltages on pin 1 of the IC, it should be 4.98-5v, if lower, you have a problem with the regulator or the 10uf cap.

      J.

      Delete
    2. i have 5,04V

      and it was leg 12 on IC to get it started again, NOT leg 11

      i hope i get it to work cause it sounded nice on the attached vid :)

      Delete
  25. The 100pF was attached wrong place, one hole wrong, but still no good me thinks, but noise went away.
    Seems to dump volume to ground, very low volume out.

    Voltages on IC's legs with all pots at 7 o'clock (Min)

    1: 5.0V
    2: 2,5
    3: 0,0
    4: 0,0
    5: 3,7
    6: 2,5
    7: 4,2
    8: 4,2
    9: 2,5
    10: 2,5
    11: 3,1
    12: 0,0
    13: 2,6
    14: 2,5
    15: 2,5
    16: 2,5

    only leg 5 and 11 changes much with all pots at 5 o'clock (Max)

    i guess it something around leg 12 cause it's showing 0,0V and circuit needs to get grounded at leg 12 to start up again after power off.

    maybe some "stompbox engineer" at tagboardeffects can point at the fault right away now?? ;)

    should be pretty close now i guess.... or hope :P

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. sorry, i counted the legs like this

      1 9
      2 10
      3 11

      etc

      Delete
    2. If you have a voltage on pin 2 and 11 but not on 12, then I think that means there is something wrong with the IC, or possibly the physical connection if you're using sockets, or else you could be grounding it somewhere with an unwanted bridge, and as the only close ground point is pin 4 it should make that easy to find if it is the case.

      Delete
    3. And for all ICs could the legs like:

      1---8
      2---7
      3---6
      4---5


      1---14
      2---13
      3---12
      4---11
      5---10
      6---9
      7---8


      1---16
      2---15
      3---14
      4---13
      5---12
      6---11
      7---10
      8---9

      Delete
  26. okey, then it's leg 13 that has 0,0V

    i think i need to step away from this vero and take a rest and come back again ;)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well 13 is right next to 4, so an unwanted bridge grounding it is looking more of a possibility.

      Delete
    2. it's 9V not 90000V ;)
      it's drilled all the way down.

      i find it too hard to troubleshot this big IC's.

      it is acting so strange and needs to get grounded etc to start.
      sometimes it's sound on 16,15,14 and 13,sometimes only 16 and 13, and sometimes only 13. then power off and nothing, need to ground 13 with signalprobe, then it starts again, with 5V on leg 15, and if i short 14 and 13 it gets back to 2,5V on 15 and i get distorted sound on 16.

      too complicated 4 me ;)

      Delete
  27. I used the update layout and it fired right up. Sounds great. Thinking about running the dwell pot to an expression pedal. Thanks for the layout!

    ReplyDelete
  28. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Just built this and didn't realise the minimum delay time is 500ms... doh!

    Is there any way to get shorter delays by changing some part values? (Sorry if this is real simple but most of the time I hardly know what i am doing even 10 builds in...)

    If not i guess i'll just have to built something else (oh no! ;p)

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I think you could try lowering the value of the time pot. The pt2399 has a minimum delay time but I'm not sure what it is.

      Delete
    2. 500-600ms is the max delay time.

      Delete
    3. And after second thought, I don't think the pot value has anything to do with minimum delay time since the bottom setting on either would be 0ohms. I think the 5k1 resistor in series with the time pot would set the minimum delay though. You could try lowering that value maybe... I'm not sure if it would have any ill effects.

      Delete
    4. Thanks Luke!... guess what? I mistook the 5k1 for 51k ... even went all fancy and put two resistors in series hahaha. So with 51k i got a minimum of 500ms and max 1.2 seconds or so... not quite what i was looking for. And i have my pots wired backwards... anyway, thanks for getting me on the right track :)

      Delete
    5. Nice. I'd imagine the pt2399 wasn't too happy with you if you turned up the time pot much haha. Glad I could help.

      Delete
    6. Hey Luke, how did you go with adding the modulation daughterboard?

      Delete
    7. Look at the deprofoundis delay and daughterboard on this site. Its set up to modulate the time pot the same way as in that layout. Basically the LDR is in parallel with the time pot.

      Delete
  30. Hey man!
    Is it ok if I use a 4.7K resistor instead of the 5.1K one ?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yep it's always fine to use your closest value. You may change something subtly but you probably wouldn't even notice the difference, and there's much less chance you'd think one sounded better than the other.

      These things are lofi and the values are never critical apart from maybe some temperamental biasing requirements, but even that I wouldn't worry about because if anything is too temperamental I'd just include a trimmer in the layout.

      So don't worry about it, you can always use your closest value, with the caveat that if anything is ever a crucial value, then I'll mention it in the post. But I haven't come across one yet.

      Delete
  31. I have to agree with what someone said earlier here, the dry signal is totally degraded. I put a buffer before it and it didn't seem to improve much. If i was to put a splitter blender, how would i make the effect 100% wet so i just blend it in?

    ReplyDelete
  32. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
  33. hmm.. I just put this together, but get lots of hiss and squealing noise (which are repeated... so it's kind of working! :D)

    My voltages all look good except pins 7 & 8 which I'm not getting anything. I can't see any solder bridges, so I'm a bit stumped. I tried swapping the PT2399 but same problem.
    Thoughts?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. anything? It's got me stumped.. I can't see why there isn't voltage on 7 & 8..

      Delete
    2. I have the same problem. The voltages on 7 and 8 pins is too lower (0.2V and 0,75V). How regulate these voltages?
      @Findo did you solve this issue?

      Delete
  34. Had a problem with this, works fine but makes a squeaky sound when i turn up the echo pot and the repetitions sound distorted, checked everything seems to be ok, just the regulator output is giving me 8.4 V shouldn't it be 5 or something like that? Could this be the problem?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If the regulator is at 8.4V that's a real problem, I'm surprised you're getting anything out of it and you haven't damaged the PT2399. I'd swap that regulator

      Delete
    2. I just fixed my problem with the regulator but the repetitions still comming with hizz it's kinda distorted, everything else works fine
      Any ideas?

      Delete
  35. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  36. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  37. I built this using madbean layout, working well and impressive. Mine on caps 4n7 replacing with 2n2 for brighter sound. Build in stock with 4n7 give result bassy sound. IMO it worth to build, i prefer this any other delay using PT2339.

    ReplyDelete
  38. I just finished building this along with the Analog Bitcrusher, both pedals only have a clean signal with no effect. Any thoughts about what the issue could be with both pedals?

    ReplyDelete
  39. Hello, I am having a similar problem. The effect is working, however, the repeats are coming through distorted. Also, when the pots are turned up, I am getting a high pitch squeal/hiss/hum. Any thoughts on what it could be?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. hi
      you could post voltages of the ic and regulator.
      this may show a problem somewhere.
      did you try this with an other 2399?

      Delete
    2. No, I haven't tried with another chip or regulator yet as I suspect it may be one of those. I will have to buy others to try. I will post my voltages in the interim to ensure it isn't a dodgy solder joint.
      Thank you.

      Delete
    3. I had a similar problem with the Ersatz Verben, swapped the IC and now it's perfect. The IC was the problem with my Cave Dweller too.

      Delete
  40. I built this one awhile ago and it worked but never sounded right, it made the signal very thin and raspy, sounded cool but not... right. I noticed that I made a mistake by using a 1nf in place of the 1uf, I swapped it out and now it sounds better but is boosts the volume quite a bit. I'm going to go through it again to see if I made other mistakes but if I haven't, is there a way to bring it down to unity without adding a volume pot, maybe bring the 1uf down to 470nf or 680nf?

    ReplyDelete
  41. I am writing this to see if anyone can see anything that I have done wrong. I built this 2 times and am not able to get a sound. The only thing that I can see that might be an issue is in place of the 750k resistor, I soldered 2 resistors together to make the 750k and my multimeter shows it as 750k. I used monlalythic caps as you will notice for the 100n's. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have attached a link to a picture of my vero at:

    https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/CaveDweller.jpg?_subject_uid=57739223&w=AACbqHeBuuuj7m99KgVNBxbIRJrbZtwocqIXB9d9oXa8zQ

    ReplyDelete
  42. I have updated my picture so you can see it better. Please go to:
    http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/denfox1/media/CaveDweller_zps77eff745-1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

    ReplyDelete
  43. I can confirm: for brighter sound replace 4n7 with a lower value. I've put a 1n and it's better for me! :)

    ReplyDelete
  44. hi. i built it, but when but there are some problems. it gets guitar signal just repeating and getting more distorted and it doesnt stop. i checked connections, voltages seems normal. any ideas there the problem can be?

    ReplyDelete
  45. How would I go about adding a Mix control to this? I love the effect but sometimes it's just too loud

    The Madbean PCB includes an optional Mix control

    ReplyDelete
  46. Hi All,
    I love this pedal it just the best IMO. I have a friend who wants to use it with a keyboard. How do I get it to work with keyboard output signal? When the -9v goes to the ground of the keyboard signal it stops working and buzz's. Would an antenuator work?
    Any help appreciated.
    Cheers
    Bill

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm not sure what you mean by the -9v going to keyboard ground but the easiest way to attenuate the line level output to instrument level is to create a voltage divider on the input.

      On this layout...solder in a socket on the 2nd and 3rd row, between the cut and the 1M resistor and audition some resistor values. Or you can solder 2 lugs of a pot there and have a variable input attenuator. This method will alter the impedance and might create some frequency loss. Only way to find out if its suitable is to try I suppose.

      Good luck.

      Delete
  47. the -9v I'm refering too is the battery or ground on the board. But I see your point and that makes sense so I will give it a try.
    Thank you

    ReplyDelete
  48. Hi!
    Someone has informations about IC voltages?

    ReplyDelete
  49. I see madbean updated this to a newer version. Is there any chance of this being updated too? Thanks for all your hard work

    ReplyDelete
  50. My second build and got it working right away. Putting these in enclosures seems to be hardest part, I'm propably using too big (physical size) capacitors etc. 1590B was pain.

    Just one question: is it normal that "dwell" in anything higher than about 1PM gives insane amount of infinite, growing feedback?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. congrats!that's not an easy one for 2nd build! the more builds you box, the easier it gets. so don't worry about this.
      as for the dwell, yes. it's normal.in the demo it's clear that when he goes higher than 1pm it gives feedback. that's common in all pt2399 based delays.
      Savvas

      Delete
  51. I build one but IMO it sounds too bassy/muddy. Tried to replace 4.7nF to 2.2nF, but there was no big difference. There are any other way to get the tone brighter? Thx and happy new year for all!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I've made some mods to bring the tone more bright and less bassy.

      1 - Changed the 1M to 470K - This is in parallel with 100p, so changing this value will change the tone a little bit, working like a tone control but in the same time will affect the range of the feedback pot. Reducing to 470k the tone becomes less bass/mid and more bright, but this mod will reduce the feedback control for a half range, so now I can get the max feedback maxing the pot without getting infinite loop. IMO infinite feedback is useless. This change will reduce the volume too, so I've made the mod that comes next.

      2 - Changed the 10k (that comes from 4n7) to 22k - This will bring the volume back to normal.

      3 - Removed 4n7 - I tried to change to 2n2 or even lower cap values but the change was not satisfactory for me, so I complete removed the cap to get the tone more bright. But this mod changed the echo control becoming less effective so I've made the mod nº4.

      4 - Changed the 10k (on the right side of the 2k) to 4k7 - This will bring the echo control back to normal.

      5 - Changed the 22n to 1n - This will bring more bright sound to the feedback control but just a little bit.

      Now the sound is much better/usefull for me. If you get some "free time" give it a try.

      "Sorry, English is not my native language."

      Delete
    2. Awesome! Anyone else try these mods? I'm curious to hear them before I open her up again =X

      Delete
    3. Thank you Edouardo ! ! I was no satisfied with this delay, too noisy... Now it's far brighter ! To everyone, i truly recommand this mod

      Delete
  52. I did the 2n2 instead of 4n7 mod too and can confirm it gives a brighter sound - but unfortunately only for clean Input. If I put any drive in front (Fuzz, OD...) it gets really muddy and looses presence... no clue how to handle this. Suggenstions welcome!

    ReplyDelete
  53. Hey guys,

    I'm having trouble with this build, I get a clicking noise when the switch is on. The rate of the clicking gets faster and slower depending on the time knob.

    78L05 voltage looks correct.
    For the PT2399 I get the following voltages:

    5----0.06
    2.3----4.95
    0----0.13
    0----2.52
    3.08----4.84
    2.4----0.4
    4.59----0
    4.5----4.83

    Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Jim

    ReplyDelete
  54. Hi there, my working voltages at the IC are:

    1 5
    2 2,5
    3 0
    4 0
    5 3,25
    6 2,5
    7 0,65
    8 0,65
    9 2,52
    10 2,52
    11 2,52
    12 2,52
    13 2,52
    14 2,52
    15 2,52
    16 2,52

    ReplyDelete
  55. I have made the circuit and it works. There are dates two problems I have also noticed others have found: background noise on the repeats, signal becomes dull and loses its crystallinity when it crosses the pedal. Also on the dry guitar signal and not on the repeats. in the original circuit there is a JFET input. It could be the lack of jfet that eliminates the impedance mismatch between the guitar and the circuit thus forming a filter with capacitive impedance which cuts the higher frequencies? or how you could solve? it is a pity not to use this circuit !!

    ReplyDelete