Tuesday, 22 April 2014

Fulltone Fulldrive II Mosfet

Requested by a few people. Even at 22 columns wide it could still fit in a 1590B if you wanted, and the first person to do it wins the TagboardEffects Awesome Builder of the Week award! :o)  But I wasn't too bothered about the board size because I suspect most people will want to put this in a 1590BB with two stomp switches.  The layout is based on this schematic on FSB posted by mozwell.

Info from Fuller about his original souped up Tubescreamer:

Housed in a beautiful powder coated Blue 16ga. steel enclosure, the dual-channel FullDrive2 gives you the best of both worlds. The first channel is the "Overdrive Mode" capable of clean boost or non-compressed overdrive or choose light to medium softer overdrives all while retaining your guitar's original tone. The Tone knob is a very effective presence control that can smooth out or add upper harmonics. The second channel is the "Boost Mode" with its own separate distortion control for medium to higher gains with a more singing violin-like sustain!

In 2007, the FullDrive2, the most popular boutique overdrive ever made, and staple on many pedalboards for years, became the FullDrive2-Mosfet, sounding better than ever before.

One mini-toggle lets you choose between a "Vintage" FD2 sound with mid-heavy tones that cut through the mix and "FM (flat-mids)" for a more natural, transparent sound that works awesome with a Strat's neck pickup.

The other mini-toggle lets you choose between Mosfet and Normal clipping modes. Normal mode is even more asymmetrical, sweeter and more open, with no "blanket" over the sound.

And, of course, the FD2-Mosfet features super-bright LEDs (borrowed from the OCD) and Fulltone's exclusive "no-thump/no-pop" True Bypass switches. We are the first to offer a switchable "Boost" Channel in an overdrive and manufacture our own Super-Duty 3PDT footswitch allowing True-Bypass plus LED.

Chosen by Guitar Player Magazine as "Best Stompbox of 2006" and as one of the all-time top 50 effects ever!








I wasn't a great fan of the asymmetrical mosfet and 1N34A diode configuration in an OCD version 4, which quite frankly I thought sounded like ass.  So I've done an alternate version based on symmetrical clipping with 2 x 1N4001 instead of the germanium diode.  This has been noted in some versions of this pedal and was definitely used in the Bassdrive so I think I personally would opt for this version.




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46 comments:

  1. Javi could probably fit this in a 1590a... somehow.

    Kidding aside, when I built the Catalinbread CB-30, I didn't have a big enough piece of veroboard on hand, so I "sewed" 2 pieces together and it worked like a charm ( http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3078710/vox_stitched.jpg ). It wouldn't be a huge leap from that to using short pieces of wire (instead of connecting it tightly through a series of buswire links) which would allow you to "fold" a board in half.. either copper side to copper side with a thin credit card type piece of material between them, or component side to component side which, if carefully done, would be a bit slimmer.

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    1. Ha that stitching is great. And I agree, there is potential for have a much bigger layout in these boxes by doing a fold, maybe with some thin plastic in between to isolate the tracks. I've got a set of axial multilayer ceramics, most of which are smaller and thinner than resistors, and with those you could have a really compact layout as long as any transistors or opamps don't spoil the party. I'm going to think about something I can use this with as a tester :o)

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    2. I use these foam pouches cut up into squares to isolate the tracks of my boards from any potential shorts. A lot of electronics sites ship small parts in these little foam pouches.

      http://i.imgur.com/nwD2msb.png

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    3. Yes I've got something similar to that. And if I'm mounting the board upside down so there's a chance of a short on the box lid I just cover the inside of the lid in wide black electricians tape. Same if anything is close to the bottom of the box.

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  2. I've never stitched one that way, but I have added rows using components to tie it together. Looks like you could split the columns easily enough under the IC and tie together the halves by bending the IC legs out straight.

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  3. Great, can we have the bass version too?

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  4. This is one of the most used overdrives atm. My friend has one , sounds very nice. Going to try it with some different opamps and see what happens.

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  5. Now I really want to build this.But I know there are various on/on/on DPDT switches around. Witch on is to be used here? The Z-type?

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    1. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_hWtqqQxBsDs/Sctkoll7-tI/AAAAAAAAAFY/V7jHQnasuFA/s400/DPDT_switches.jpg

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    2. Yes you want the type 1 based on this pic

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    3. No sorry I got it the wrong way round, type 2. That will have the diodes in circuit for 2 of the positions and out for 1.

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    4. So if one could only get type 1 then reverse lugs 5/6 to lugs 1/2 en vise versa? Or is this solution to easy ;-)

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    5. But of course if you have the other type you can just swap the poles over so

      1 becomes 4
      2 becomes 5
      3 becomes 6

      and vice versa

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    6. Sorry I didn't see your response before my post about swapping the poles, so yes you are correct in what you say

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  6. Just a heads up for anyone building this after Brownpedals comment. Before you build it, check that the contacts on the CFV switch behaves in the following way before soldering it up. The way it is drawn requires 2 & 3 and 4 & 5 to be made in the centre position. If that isn't the case with the ones you buy and instead 1 & 2 and 5 & 6 are made in the middle position, then swap over the poles so:

    Lug 1 becomes 4
    Lug 2 becomes 5
    Lug 3 becomes 6
    Lug 4 becomes 1
    Lug 5 becomes 2
    Lug 6 becomes 3

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  7. Have you seen some places do FD2 mods that make the boost able to be used independently? Any way of doing that? For example i think JHS puts in their "Mini bomb boost" as the boost side. It would be cool to get just the non-boost side and then throw in an EP booster or something!

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  8. just made this stuff.. thanks ivlark for your layout
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/m760ascrfmfxdsu/IMG-20140603-WA0006.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/g2243kw5t046v1a/IMG-20140603-WA0004.jpg

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    1. hi man, i´m just curious: your build has 3 mini switches? i´m just count 2 on the layout. Nice job BTW!

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  9. Would it be possible to omit the tone in lieu of independent mid and treble controls? If so, how?

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  10. Is it possible to test this board without connecting any of the switches? I'm getting nothing out of the drive but the volume does work. (I am using the 2 x 1N4001 layout) Thanks!

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    1. Ok, I finally got this thing to work... the IC was faulty and it was the last thing I tried...
      I could use some help on how to wire the boost switch so the LED will work though... I've looked at the wiring pages but can't figure out how to do the wiring for the boost LED. (boost does work, just not the LED) Thanks!

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    2. hi there!
      you can do it as you did it for the true bypass stomp.
      from pin 4 of the boost stomp, to the LED-
      and from LED + to a 2.2k resistor and then to 9v.
      and ground pins 5 and 6
      i believe this will work.
      did you tried it?

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    3. Nevermind... fixed it... but the boost on my built is extremely loud on the CompCut and FM settings and on those settings the drive output is quite low. Sigh... I might just give up on this one. I have a Deadringer 2 in the making anyway, it's just that I have already made a nice enclosure for this Fooldrive. At least I learned some things :).

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    4. Thanks ξεναγός νεκρόπολης! I ended up connecting pin 4 to ground and pin 5 to the LED -. Not sure if that's the correct way of doing it, but it works. When I connected pin 6 to ground and 5 to the LED-, the LED was on when the boost was off.

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    5. yes mate...i see what you did and it works just fine.it doesn't matter if it's LED- to 4 and 5 to ground, or LED- to 5 and 4 to ground as you did...but i think that doing it as i said it just helps you avoid any popping that LED could cause, by grounding next to 5, lug 6 too. but if there is no pop you're good to go!

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  11. Hi, I just built the second version of this pedal. It works great aside from the drive pot. When I turn the drive up the sound cuts out completely. Do have any idea what could be the cause?

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    1. is it happening in both boost switch's possitions?
      did you soldered somewhere the drive pot's lug3?
      following the layout, the only thing i came up with is a short to ground with the drive pot.something like lug2 of drive pot through boost stomp goes to ground.
      so i would check the cut under 100r and the one that cuts the way to ground from boost 2 wire, before 100uf.
      but i'm not sure anyway...hope i helped

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    2. Thanks, but I figured it out.

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  12. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  13. Hi guys, I'm a total noob here. Could someone tell me whether this is buffered or true bypass? Thanks.

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  14. You tell us, it's your project :P

    Fer realz though, it depends how you decide to build your project. This layout does not contain any bypass wiring. If you follow the bypass method outlined in the offboard wiring page, then it will be true bypass.

    I hope this doesn't seem condescending or rude, but if that's your question you might consider and easier project to first learn with. This is more of an intermediate level project, with lots of extra offboard wiring that is confusing to noobs. It will be easier to make a mistake, and more difficult to debug. Trust me, I have a box full of failed projects

    If you do attempt it and have any issues, we'll do our best to help you, but beware it could be frustrating and offputting as a beginner project

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  15. Hello, I am new to this, I made a few pedals in my life and I decided I'll try it again, never used vero before and this will be my first projects, already ordered parts from Tayda... but I have a few questions, I tried to connect it all on a "paper" and figured out that some connection are left out/i don't know what to do with them;

    http://i58.tinypic.com/2m3pvko.png

    1. Where should I connect Drive-pot 3? (gnd? if I have to gnd it, where to ground it, on the board?)
    2. Boost-pot 3?(gnd?)
    3. CFV sw 1 and 6?(gnd?)
    4. Channel Stomp sw 4, 5, 6? and where to put channel LED?
    5. Can i use 3PDT switch for channel sw and just ignore 7-8-9?

    Sorry for n00bish questions, I'm looking forward to get into vero diy community, I just need a bit of help to understand.

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    1. Hello, maybe you've already figured it out.

      1. No connection.
      2. Idem.
      3. Idem.
      4. Sw 4, 5, 6 is the second pole of the switch, it's for the channel LED. (it's written below the switch :0)

      Use the offboard wiring section (see: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.nl/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html) to hook up the LED correctly: connect with flat side too Sw6 and the other (with limiting resistor in between) to +9V. Sw 4, 5 are grounded.
      5. Yes, you could do that; also for the SPDT, you could use a DPDT instead.

      Goodluck and fun with your builds.

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    2. Thank you! I just finished populating the board, I hope everything will work. Yesterday I finished tremulus lune and it works, so i hope this will work too. If I have any problems I will ask it here :)

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    3. It works! It's late where I live so I can't test in properly on an amp but it seems on CFV switch are few problems, on top setting there is almost no change in sound, middle very low distortion, bottom works great, I checked the switch before and I had to switch 1-4, 2-5...
      When I turn on the Boost on these faulty settings it works normally, with a lot of drive..
      Only difference I made is 470k resistor instead of 510k cause I couldn't buy it at my local electronics store. Any ideas?

      http://i58.tinypic.com/357iwk4.jpg
      http://i62.tinypic.com/iglxz4.jpg
      http://i61.tinypic.com/mtmamg.jpg
      http://i60.tinypic.com/fvh2fq.jpg
      http://i59.tinypic.com/2wqwj8j.jpg
      http://i61.tinypic.com/t7g3uc.jpg

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    4. Okay :D cause I couldn't turn up the amp last night I got thrown off with the sounds, I tried it now, everything seems fine, compcut setting is just lower in overdrive than other two settings, thanks for all the help, looking forward to my new vero projects :)

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    5. put 2 resistors in serie 220k and 240 you´ll have 460k

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    6. put 2 resistors in serie 220k and 240 you´ll have 460k

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  16. How should i connect it? with the "Dual effect" connection or the "Switchable Boost" one i
    don´t how to connect it i know this is a noob question but i´m learning how to do it with dual effect pedals

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  17. I just need someone that could help me answering me please

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    1. Hi Marvin.

      All connections that must be made will either be shown on the layout itself or the notes under the layout. So as you can see....

      Ch Sw1 wire to Channel Stomp 1 lug (layout)
      Boost 2 wire to Boost Pot lug 2 AND Channel Stomp 3 lug (layout and notes)
      Drive 2 wire to Drive Pot lug 2 AND Channel Stomp 2 lug (layout and notes)

      This is for the boost switch only. The bypass switch will follow that same connections seen in the Offboard Section.

      Good luck


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  18. Ya I finally got this one going. I trouble shot it 4 times an hour or so and couldnt find anything wrong with it. I cant believe I didnt realize there are 2 kinds of on/on/on switches. Once i swapped the wires around on the comp cut vintage switch it works perfectly. Man that was a pain in the XXX. I was looking at the mutron switch wiring and it dawned on me My switch was probably different from the one here and it was. This is a pretty good circuit. I prefer the boss sd-1 over the tube screamer for a few reasons. I think Ill mod this to be more Boss sd-1 like or just do one completely like a boss sd-1 . Thanks IVIark!!!!

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